Fix It

Auto body technicians can repair dents on your car but the costs may be high. This is especially true if your cars value is low and buying materials at a store so you can do the work yourself would be cheaper than paying a professional. The do-it-yourself strategies and secrets in the steps below can help you fix the dents yourself. Most of the tips involve small investments at an auto parts store.

Simple Steps

If the dent is not bad, minor applications may help remove it. You can apply your hand above or below the dent, depending on the dents location, to see whether it can be pushed back to its normal position. You can press wood blocks against the sides side of the dent to add more force. Use a suction cup in an attempt to pull out the dent.

Sanding and Filling

One approach to dent repair is to sand the paint off the dent. Once the dent is exposed, apply car body filler. Spread the filler evenly and let it dry. Once the filler is dry, sand it until its smooth and repaint the area with the color of your car. This should help make the car look as good as new.

I

The 1974 MGB features a carbureted 1798 cc inline four-cylinder engine, rack-and-pinion steering, hydraulic braking system and a four-speed manual transmission. The MGB accelerated from 0 to 60 mph in 11 seconds. Production of the original MGB manufactured by the British Motor Company halted in 1980. The MGB features several identification plates installed on the vehicle. Commission number plates were installed on 1967 and later vehicles. Locating the commission number for your MGB may aid in in research for specific information about the vehicle.

Instructions

1

Engage the vehicles parking brake and shut off the engine.

2

Open the vehicles hood.

3

Examine the inner body panels, firewall, fender wells and hood latch area within the engine compartment to locate the original commission number plate. The commission number plate has a rectangular shape, red border and "Commission No." printed at the top.

General Motors, manufacturer of the Chevy Lumina, has issued one recall due to wiring problems with the vehicle as of January 2011. The National Highway Traffic Safety Administration reports multiple complaints regarding other wiring problems that havent prompted recalls, however, and concerned Lumina owners should verify with the NHTSA whether repair compensation is available.

Windshield Wipers

In 1997, General Motors recalled certain 1995 Chevy Lumina vehicles for a wiring problem with the washer/wiper switch power feed wire, which could strain or separate, causing the wipers to malfunction. Inoperative windshield wipers pose an accident risk in inclement weather.

Turn Signal

The NHTSAs website shows that several complaints from owners of 1993 Luminas regarding turn signal wiring problems, with some consumers reporting smoke intermittently coming from the steering column.

Alternator

A few owners of 1993 Luminas report fires due to wiring problems in the alternator, according to the NHTSA, with one consumer citing two fires. Another driver reports having trouble starting the car because of the alternator wiring malfunction.

Conducting regular service on your vehicle is essential to keeping it running for a long time. Being able to crawl underneath your car to access mechanisms and parts below it is a major obstacle to do-it-yourself vehicle maintenance. Make tasks ranging from replacing a steering mechanism to oil changes easier by lifting the car up onto auto service ramps you can build yourself.

Instructions

1

Place one railroad tie up on its side with the narrow end facing towards you. Measure 8 inches from the bottom corner to the center. Mark the spot with a marker. Using your straight edge draw a straight line from the mark to the adjacent bottom corner. The line should create a triangular shape. Repeat this step on the other railroad tie.

2

Use a chainsaw to cut out the triangular shape. This is the piece that youll use as a ramp.

3

Cut two 3-inch wedges out of the extra pieces of railroad tie with your chainsaw. Use these two pieces as stoppers for your auto ramp.

4

Glue each stopper to the front of the ramp. When you drive up onto the ramp, these stoppers help you know where to rest your vehicle. Drill the stoppers in place with screws to ensure they dont move.

The 1987 BMW 325is has a built-in maintenance reminder light to let you know when you need to take your BMW in to see the mechanic for regular servicing. If the "Service Engine" light illuminates on the instrument panel in yellow or red when you start the engine, then it is time for a servicing. Make sure you have the servicing done before you attempt to reset the light or else it will turn itself back on. The reset requires the help of a reset tool purchased from an auto parts store.

Instructions

1

Put the key into the ignition and turn the vehicle to the "On" position, but dont allow the engine to turn over.

2

Turn off all accessories such as the lights, air conditioner, and the radio.

3

Pop up the hood of the BMW and locate the diagnostic connector on the front left side of the engine as you are facing the vehicle. Plug the BWM reset tool into the diagnostic connector.

4

Find the "Service Engine" button on the BMW reset tool and push and hold it for ten seconds or until the light on the tool flashes and then turns off. Release the button and unplug the reset tool from the diagnostic connector. Lower the hood.

5

Look on the instrument cluster inside the vehicle to see that the "Service Engine" light has turned off.

Heres a good way to mess with your friends the next time youre sitting at the local watering hole: ask them if cars are alive. Cars these days are composed of both synthetic and biological materials, they can react to outside stimuli such as heat and cold, they can reproduce (with the aid of a human symbiote) and they can even age. Resurrecting a long-stationary engine usually isnt a matter of simply turning the key; its more like waking an old lady from a very long nap.

Basic Issues

The biggest problem with restarting an old engine has to do with oiling. Oil, and its nefarious cousin, sludge, are supposed to coat every interior surface of your engine to keep everything slick and working properly. Over time, liquid oil either drains down into the pan or gets trapped somewhere in the engine, and sludge dries into charcoal. Obviously, lubricating an engine with air, rust and charcoal isnt the smartest thing you can do where longevity is concerned.

Critter Patrol

You might be surprised as to exactly how much stuff can get into an engine when it sits for a while, especially if theres no air filter on it. Thoroughly inspect your air intake tube for leaves and critters, and pull the carburetor or throttle body off to inspect the inside of the intake. Trust it: Your engine will not be happy if the intake valves happen to suck a birds nest, field mouse or snake into the combustion chambers. Dont assume everythings kosher if the air filters in place, either; bugs can crawl up through the tailpipe, through open exhaust valves and nest in the cylinders or intake manifold.

Prime the Pump

As mentioned in Section 1, oil will eventually drain out of everywhere its supposed to be, including the oil pump. The prescribed solution is to manually prime the oil pump using a drill and a specialized pump-priming shaft. This may not be possible for some engines, though; the worst case scenario is that youll have to pull the oil pump, pack it with petroleum jelly and reinstall it. The jelly will allow the pump to create a vacuum and pull oil from the pan. You might get lucky, though. Try installing a mechanics oil pressure gauge and bump the starter; it might produce oil pressure without priming.

All Systems Go

Once youve primed the pump and have established oil pressure with a priming shaft, disconnect the ignition system -- if its still connected -- and bump the starter a few times to ensure that oil goes everywhere it should. Spin the engine over a few times to blow anything in the engine out of it, and listen for unexpected sounds from the engine. Stop if you hear any kind of rattling, puffing or any other sound the engine doesnt normally make. Reconnect the ignition and give it a shot. If the engine doesnt start right away, then its probably due to a lack of fuel pressure. If you have a mechanical pump, just keep cranking the engine for about 20 seconds or until it catches.

Replacing the hub assembly on the front of your Jeep Cherokee is the only way to service the front wheel bearings. Because the hub assembly is a sealed unit, you cannot repair it without special tools. Replacement units for the Jeep front axles are readily available through most auto parts stores and of course the Jeep dealer network, however. The job can become time consuming, but in the end doing the work yourself can save you a substantial amount of money.

Instructions

1

Locate the hub nut and cotter pin in the center of the front wheel on the side on which you will be working. Remove the cotter pin from the shaft with a pair of needle-nose pliers, then discard it. Place a large socket (generally 36 to 45 mm) on the axle nut, and use a breaker bar to rotate the nut counterclockwise until it loosens.

2

Loosen the lug nuts with a lug wrench, then place a jack under the front of the Jeep. Raise it off the ground, and place a set of jack stands under the front axle to support the Jeep. Remove the wheels, and set them aside for now.

3

Locate the two brake caliper retaining bolts on the top of the brake caliper. Remove the two retaining pins with a socket, then ratchet the lift the caliper off the brake rotor. Support the caliper from the top of the suspension with twine to keep it from hanging on the brake hose.

4

Slide the brake rotor off the hub, and set it aside. Locate the three 12-point bolts on the backside of the steering knuckle that retain the hub to the steering knuckle. Remove all three bolts with a 12-point socket and a ratchet. Set the bolts aside.

5

Remove the axle nut from the axle shaft, and pull the hub out of the steering knuckle and off the axle. If it has rusted to the steering knuckle, use a cold chisel and hammer to work around the edge of the hub, separating it a little at a time. It will come out with enough persistence.

6

Clean the interior surface of the steering knuckle with some break clearer and a clean rag then coat it with some anti seize compound. Slide a new hub over the axle shaft and into the steering knuckle. Install the three 12-point retaining bolts from the back of the knuckle and into the hub. Tighten the bolts, drawing the hub completely into the knuckle.

7

Slide the rotor onto the new hub and wheel studs, then position the brake caliper on the rotor. Install the retaining pins into the caliper, and tighten them with a socket and ratchet.

8

Install the axle unit onto the axle shaft, and tighten it until snug. Torque the three 12-point bolts to 75 foot-lbs. with a torque wrench. Install the tire on the hub, and tighten the lug nuts until snug.

9

Raise the front of the Jeep off the jack stands, then remove the stands from under the axle. Lower the jack, setting the Jeep on the ground, and tighten the lug nuts the rest of the way with a lug wrench.

10

Tighten the axle nut to 175 foot-lbs. with a torque wrench, and install a new cotter pin in the end of the axle shaft, bending the legs over with a pair of pliers to hold it in place.

Adjusting the idle mixture of your Holley carburetor is an important procedure in the operation of the motor. The proper adjustment of the carburetor can improve your fuel mileage as well as keep the engine running more efficiently. Adjusting the two idle mixture screws of the Holley carburetor only takes a few minutes and requires only a couple of tools. Save the time and money it takes to visit a mechanic by adjusting the carburetor yourself.

Instructions

1

Locate the two idle mixture screws (one on each side) of the Holley carburetor and turn both screws carefully counterclockwise with a screwdriver until they bottom out and you feel resistance. Do not over-tighten the idle screws.

2

Turn both screws one-and-a-quarter turns clockwise with a screwdriver to find the idle adjustment starting point. Start the motor and allow it to warm up for about five minutes.

3

Remove the rubber vacuum hose from the metal vacuum port on the side of the carburetor and attach the vacuum gauge hose to the end of the port. Have someone place the car in gear and hold it still while you are adjusting the idle mixture screws.

4

Turn the idle screws one quarter-turn clockwise at a time in sequence with a screwdriver until you have the highest vacuum readings for both idle mixture screws. Put the car into park and leave it idling.

5

Repeat the procedure in Step 4, adjusting the idle mixture screws with a screwdriver while the vehicle is in park, until you get the highest vacuum readings. Remove the vacuum gauge from the carburetor vacuum port and reattach the vacuum hose to the port.

The 2002 Volvo S80 features a keyless remote that allows the owner to lock and unlock the vehicle from afar as well as open the trunk. There are situations, however, such as when the battery of the vehicle is dead, in which the keyless remote will not work. In these cases, the owner may access the trunk manually with a key or through the passenger compartment.

Instructions

Using a Key

1

Remove the black cover to the right of the handle cover on the trunk of the vehicle. This will reveal a manual lock.

2

Insert the key into the lock and turn it to the right to unlock the truck.

3

Use the manual to open the trunk.

Accessing the Trunk from Inside

4

Reach behind the back seat to access the trunk.

5

Pull the release control handle on the inside of the trunk to release the backrest. This may be somewhat difficult as you have to feel around for the control handle.

6

Fold the backrest down. You now have access to the trunk. If it is too dark to see inside the trunk, use a flashlight.

7

Pull down the florescent handle on the inside of the trunk lid. This will open the trunk.

Starting problems can happen to any vehicle from time to time and require troubleshooting to determine the cause. Although your 2001 Mustang should start every time the ignition switch engages, there are those rare occasions when cranking the vehicle doesnt go according to plan. Systematically checking the various components that make up the starting circuit is part of the troubleshooting process.

Instructions

1

Start with the Mustangs battery. Remove and clean the battery terminals and posts for an improved connection to the starting circuitry. Loosen the terminal bolts with a 5/16-inch wrench and remove them from the posts. Brush both the posts and the terminals clean with a wire brush before reconnecting the terminals to the battery.

2

Ensure the battery is properly charged by connecting it to a battery charger. Connect the positive and negative leads from the charger to the respective posts on the battery. When the charger is plugged into an electrical outlet, the meter on the face of the charger will indicate the level of charge that exists in the battery. If the battery is low and will not take a charge, replace the battery with a new one.

3

Check that the alternator is properly sending a charging current to the battery. Most auto parts stores provide an alternator and battery test as a free service to their customers. If the alternator is not recharging the battery, replace it with a new or refurbished one.

4

Inspect the fuel pump safety switch if the car cranks but will not start. The fuel safety switch for a 2001 Mustang is located on the drivers side of the trunk compartment. Pull the carpeting down just in front of the drivers side tail light and depress the reset button on the safety switch, if it is tripped. The safety switch is designed to shut fuel off to the engine in case of an accident. However, the switch will sometimes trip for no apparent reason.

5

Check for faulty spark plugs if the engine cranks but fails to start. Old or fouled plugs will fail to ignite the fuel/air mixture in the engine, preventing it from starting on its own. Fouled spark plugs appear soaked in fuel. Burns or gouges in the business end of a spark plug are an indication that it needs to be replaced.

Aircraft are, by nature, far more maintenance-dependent than automobiles. Whereas an automobile breakdown might prove inconvenient or costly, when a pilots ride breaks down the closest tow truck is likely to be several thousand feet below. Cleaning an aircrafts spark plugs isnt really any different than cleaning any other gas engines spark plugs, and should be part of any regularly-scheduled service interval.

Instructions

1

Remove the spark plugs from your engine. This procedure will vary greatly by engine and airframe, but most are designed with regular plug maintenance in mind. Removing plugs from an aircraft engine is very similar to removing them from a car engine; the primary difference is that many aircraft use thread-on plug wires instead of automotive-style plug-ins. To remove threaded plug wires, simply unscrew them from the plug ends.

2

Drop the spark plugs -- electrode-end down -- into your mason jars. Lower them carefully so as not to damage the slugs. You may need two or more jars to hold the plugs. Pour your naptha solvent onto the jars to a depth of about one inch, or enough to cover the plug threads. Try to avoid pouring the solvent over the tops of the plugs. Allow them to sit in the solvent for 30 minutes.

3

Remove the plugs from the solvent. You can allow them to air dry, but you can dry them in seconds using the air supply from your sandblasting setup. At this point, the carbon on the plugs should be soft enough to remove with the baking soda blasting media.

4

Fill your sandblaster hopper with baking soda and trigger the sandblaster to purge any residual sand from the system. Turn the sandblasting pressure up to between 150 and 200 psi.

5

Hold your plug tip about three to five inches from the electrode and spray it down with baking soda. Rotate the plug to clean all around the electrode tip and the ground strap. You can remove stubborn carbon deposits by lightly scraping them with the end of your gun or a copper wire brush. Continue blasting the plug until its free of all discoloration and carbon. Repeat with your remaining plugs.

6

Fill your soup pot with water and place it on an electric stove to boil. Drop the plugs one at a time into the water to dissolve the baking soda. This is where the whole process comes together. Mechanics have been sandblasting spark plugs for years, but the sand tends to get trapped inside the plug and lead to later fouling. Baking soda dissolves in water, but it isnt aggressive enough to remove really hard carbon deposits without prior softening with a solvent like naptha.

7

Dry the plugs with compressed air and reinstall them into the engine in the reverse order of removal.

Chrysler makes several series of vans under its Dodge brand, including the Caravan, Ram Van and Sprinter. The full-size vans use timing chains, but the Caravan is a minivan that uses a timing belt. A timing belt keeps the crankshaft and camshafts synchronized, just as a timing chain does. Timing belts are quieter than a timing chain, but also wear out at regular intervals. A timing belt typically lasts at least 60,000 miles.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the negative battery cable with a socket wrench. Remove any components needed to access the timing belt in your Chrysler van. A late-model Caravan requires you to remove the right front wheel and splash shield for the engine.

2

Disconnect the accessory drive belts and crankshaft damper. Remove the belt tensioner and pulley assembly for the air compressor. Disconnect the timing belt covers with a socket wrench. Remove the right engine mount and bracket from the engine.

3

Turn the crankshaft clockwise to align the timing mark on the camshaft sprocket with the mark on the oil pump housing. The "UP" mark on the left camshaft sprocket must also align with the "FRONT" mark on the right camshaft sprocket. Loosen the lock bolt on the timing belt tensioner with a socket wrench.

4

Place a 6-millimeter Allen wrench into the opening on top of the pulley for the timing belt tensioner. Turn the top plate on the pulley clockwise with the Allen wrench to remove the tensioner, and remove the timing belt from the sprockets.

5

Place the timing belt tensioner in a soft-jawed vise. Press the plunger into its housing to align the holes on the plunger and housing. Insert a 5/64-inch Allen wrench to hold the plunger in place.

6

Place the new timing belt onto the crankshaft, water pump, idler pulley, right camshaft sprocket, left camshaft sprocket and timing belt tensioner pulley in that order. Turn the left camshaft sprocket counterclockwise to take up the slack in the timing belt.

7

Turn the top plate on the pulley for the timing belt tensioner counterclockwise with a 6-millimeter Allen wrench until the notch on the tensioner aligns with the spring tang. Remove the 5/64-inch Allen wrench from the tensioner plunger.

8

Tighten the lock bolt on the tensioner to 220 inch pounds with a torque wrench. Rotate the crankshaft two full turns and align the timing marks again.

9

Replace the components that you removed in steps one and two to access the timing belt. Attach the negative battery cable with a socket wrench.

Installing catalytic converters on vehicles does a great service to the environment, as they are responsible for cleaning the pollution that comes from your vehicles combustion engine. Reducing auto emissions takes place when a catalytic converter is working properly, while damaged converters may require cheap fixes or replacement.

Fix vs. Replace

Simply replacing a catalytic converter is often just a temporary fix. When a converter goes bad, other things are often to blame such as bad spark plugs. If these go unfixed, a new converter will go bad due to these underlying issues.

Sensor Fix

Damaging the oxygen sensor results when silicone is allowed to come into contact with a catalytic converter. A smoking exhaust pipe letting out white fumes is a sign that this is occurring. You can fix this problem cheaply by sealing the source of entry for the silicone, which is often through a leak in the head gasket. Products are available that you can pour into the radiator to seal the leak.

Phosphorus Fix

Failing an emissions test will likely result from heavy phosphorus contamination to your catalytic converter. Smoking blue fumes coming from your exhaust pipe will often indicate if this is indeed happening. You can fix or contain this issue by switching to an "SJ"-type motor oil as opposed to the "SH"-rated type, which contains higher levels of phosphorus.

Constant velocity carburetors have been standard equipment on Harley, BMW and Kawasaki motorcycles because they work efficiently and dependably with stock and slightly modified engines. They stay in tune well on a vibrating bike, and when they fall out of tune they can be corrected by turning 2 small screws. Common complaints that might be blamed on a CV carburetor are hard starting, poor idling, poor acceleration, poor high-speed performance and poor gas mileage.

Instructions

1

Open the petcock. Fully extend the choke knob.

2

Start the motorcycle. If the motorcycle is hard to start, ensure that the vacuum operated electrical switch breather hose on top of the air cleaner is connected.

3

Turn off the motorcycle. Remove the air cleaner cover with an Allen wrench, Torx wrench or screwdriver depending on your motorcycle. Push the breather tubes on top of the air cleaner down.

4

Restart the motorcycle. If the bike is still hard to start, turn off the engine and adjust the throttle and idle cables attached to the throttle cam on the front of the carburetor by turning the cable screws clockwise and counterclockwise.

5

Restart the motorcycle and allow the engine to idle. If the motorcycle seems to idle abnormally fast or slow, which is more than 1,000 rpm or less than 900 rpm, adjust the idle screw on the throttle cam with a flat-head screwdriver to tighten or loosen the idle cable. Replace the air cleaner cover.

6

Ride the motorcycle in all gears and at all legal speeds. If fuel consumption mileage is less than 40 miles per gallon, the air cleaner filter may be dirty. Park the motorcycle and allow to cool.

7

Remove the air cleaner cover with an Allen wrench, Torx wrench or screwdriver depending on your motorcycle. Unplug the breather hoses on top of the air cleaner and remove the air cleaner from the air cleaner backing plate with an Allen wrench, Torx wrench or screwdriver depending on your motorcycle.

8

Wash the air cleaner in warm, soapy water. Allow to air dry and oil according to the instructions for your air cleaner. Reinstall the air cleaner and the air cleaner cover with an Allen wrench, Torx wrench or screwdriver depending on your motorcycle.

The first Nissan Maxima was actually a top-trim Datsun 810; it reached U.S. shores in 1977. In 1981 the Maxima became its own model line; in 2010 the Maxima was in its seventh generation (eight if you include the Datsun 810 Maxima). The 96 Maxima, which has been known to have some common problems, is of the lines fourth generation.

Grinding Noise

Some 1996 Maxima owners reported a grinding in the rear brakes of their vehicles. Mechanics discovered that the parking brake kept pressure on the rear tires even after release. This required installation of new brake pads and a new brake cable.

Engine Knocking

There have been two causes identified from unusual engine noise in the 1996 Nissan Maxima. A reported "knocking" was found to be due to a defective on-board computer that had to be replaced. While a loose timing chain caused an unfamiliar "rattle." The timing chain fix required a new chain guide and tensioner.

Stalling Out

Corrosion on the cooling sensor of a 1996 Nissan Maxima has been found to be the cause of a stalling and hard-starting problem. This cooling sensor must be replaced to resolve the issue.

Poor Idle

Where electrical wires bend into the strut tower, mechanics have found broken wires that have caused failure in the starter and air conditioner. This hard bend of the wires into the strut tower has resulted in cut and broken wires in the 1996 Maxima.

The cabin air filter in your Volvo removes dust, pollen and odors from your passenger cabin. In the late 1990s, Volvo started installing cabin air filters at the factory. Volvo recommends replacing the filter every 15,000 miles or sooner, depending on the driving environment. The filter is located under the glove box on the passenger side. Replacing your Volvos cabin air filter is a fairly simple job, and once youre finished you can breathe a little easier.

Instructions

1

Find the cabin air filter panel. The panel is located under the glove box on the passenger side. Using your Phillips screwdriver, remove the two screws to the panel cover.

2

Remove the face plate to the cabin filter housing. Slide the old filter out, keeping it level to avoid spilling any debris that may be in the filter.

3

Install a new Volvo cabin air filter. Slide the new filter into place. Make sure that the arrows on the filter are facing up. Attach the face plate to the cabin filter housing. Reattach the cabin air filters panel with the Phillips screws.

Many Chevrolet pickup trucks manufactured from 1999 to 2007 are powered by a 4.8-liter, eight-cylinder engine called the Vortec 4800. Such is the engine in the 2007 two-wheel-drive Chevrolet Silverado. The engine uses fuel injectors to deliver fuel to the engine in a precise sequence. If the fuel injector fails, you can replace it but the job requires the removal of several components.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the cable for the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench to minimize the possibility of electrical shock. Place a container under the radiator drain and remove the radiator drain plug. Allow the coolant to drain from the radiator and replace the drain plug.

2

Remove the electrical connector for the air cooler inlet duct from the turbocharger on the left side of the engine. Detach the electrical connector for the barometric sensor. Remove the electrical connector for the glow plug controller.

3

Remove the main electrical wiring harness from the engine and release the clip from the wiring harness. Disconnect the bolts for the wiring harness bracket with a socket wrench and remove the bracket.

4

Disconnect the positive crankcase ventilation hose and remove the air cleaner outlet duct on the right side of the engine with a socket wrench. Release the clamp that attaches the air cooler outlet duct to the air intake and remove the outlet duct. Remove the mounting bolts for the fuel filter bracket with a socket wrench and disconnect the fuel filter.

5

Remove the fuel injection control module and disconnect the fuel lines to the fuel injectors with a socket wrench. Detach the electrical connectors for the fuel injectors. Remove the mounting bolts for the fuel injector bracket and disconnect the mounting bracket.

6

Place injector removal tool, called the J-46594, into a hole for the mounting bolt for the fuel injector bracket and attach a flare nut wrench to the injector removal tool. Pull the injector removal tool away from the fuel injector with the flare nut wrench to remove the fuel injector from its seat on the engine. Remove the injector removal tool from the hole for the mounting bolt.

7

Install the new fuel injector. Torque the mounting bolts for the fuel injector bracket to 22 ft. lbs. with a torque wrench. Torque the connecting bolts on the fuel lines for the fuel injectors to 30 ft. Connect the cable for the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench and refill the cooling system.

The catalytic converter is part of the exhaust system of an automobile and is designed to reduce pollution in the cars emissions. It oxides carbon monoxide and other pollutants into carbon dioxide and water by using a platinum-iridium catalyst. Sometimes the catalytic converter can become clogged with deposits and this can result in the engine not running properly. Puncturing the converter can solve this problem and allow the trapped gases a means of escape.

Instructions

1

Lift the car up on a jack so that you safely look under it to find the catalytic converter. Make sure the car is secure and that vibrations or small impacts will not affect the jack.

2

Locate the converter. It will normally be towards the back of the exhaust system near the muffler. Look for a cylinder-shaped casing with a pipe running in and out of it at both ends.

3

Determine if the converter is welded on to the exhaust of clamped. If it is clamped, remove the clamps and slide the converter off. If it is welded, saw through the piping on both ends of the converter to remove it.

4

Stand the converter on its end and hold the chisel tip in the piping against the end of the converter.

5

Use the hammer to hit the end of the chisel and force it through the catalytic converter. Do this on both ends. Be careful to not hit your hand with the hammer when you punch in the holes.

6

Re-attach the converter by clamping it back into place on the piping under the car.

Air-conditioning systems on vehicles can help make a ride in the heat of summer more enjoyable as cold air comes pouring out the interior air vents. A failed air conditioning compressor, however, will cause the comfort of having cold air to cease. A problem with your air conditioning is not necessarily an indication that the compressor has failed, but there are some signs that can indicate that the compressor is problematic.

No Cold Air

Perhaps the most obvious symptom of a failed air conditioning compressor is the absence of cold air. All air conditioning systems take some time to cool a vehicles interior, but if after a significant amount of time has passed you feel no cold air coming out of the vehicles air vents this could point to the air compressor not operating correctly.

Lubricant or Refrigerant Leaks

An air-conditioning compressor requires lubrication just as the engine does, or else metal-on-metal contact will occur. The loss of lubrication will eventually lead to the compressor failing as it seizes from the excessive contact. Even with proper lubrication, a refrigerant leak can also lead to the compressor failing. The compressor generates a high amount of heat as it operates, and so it relies on the refrigerant not only to generate cold air for the occupants of the vehicle but to also cool off the compressor.

Noise

Like engines, air-conditioning compressors in different vehicles make varying degrees of noise when they operate. If you know your vehicle well enough, you should be able to tell if the compressor is making excessive noise such as squealing or loud knocking. These noises can indicate metal on metal contact as well as problems with air flow, which may be severe enough that the compressor needs to be replaced.

California requires all vehicles produced after 1976, or that have been in operation for longer than six years, to have a smog check. The only vehicles exempt from the smog check requirement are select hybrid vehicles, two-wheel motorcycles, diesel vehicles produced before 1997, vehicles with two or fewer cylinders, and engines under 819c. If a vehicle does not pass a smog check and still needs to be registered, the following requirements will need to be met in order to qualify for a one-time, two-year extension, smog check waiver.

Smog Check Failure

A vehicles must have failed a routine, biennial smog check conducted at an authorized smog check location. Authorized smog check locations include car dealerships, gas stations and car repair shops. All authorized smog check locations will display a blue banner with a large red check mark and the words "Smog check" written across the banner.

Registration

The vehicle must have been registered for operation in the state of California for at least two years prior to failing the smog check. This ensures the vehicle was either exempt from a smog check in the past or it had passed a smog check prior to failing the most recent test.

Intact Emissions System

There should be absolutely no signs of tampering on the vehicles emissions control system. The system must be in its original and approved state from its initial installation. Tampering with the system includes improper repairs and removal of parts.

Costly Repair

The vehicle in question must need at least $450 worth of repairs in order to make it pass the smog check. There must be written document from an authorized smog check location detailing the cost estimate and diagnosis of the repairs needed for the vehicle to pass the smog check.

CAP Program

The owner of the vehicle must qualify for the CAP program in order to prove the repairs to the vehicle are an income burden. The CAP program is the Consumer Assistance Program designed to provide financial assistance towards emissions-related repairs to those who qualify. Qualified applicants will need to prove they have a low income level and have not done any repairs to the car prior to applying for the program. The program will provide assistance up to $500.

The nuts that hold exhaust heads -- called manifolds -- onto the top end of the engine are prone to rusting and seizing. They are subject to extremely high temperatures, typically are made of a base metal and must be torqued down to extreme tensions to maintain their seals under operation. These reasons contribute to their being the bane of many a mechanics day. That said, a number of tricks can be effective in freeing the exhaust heads.

Safety

Exerting great pressure on long levers and working with naked flames can be hazardous. Wear protective gloves that save your knuckles if the bolt end unexpectedly snaps off, and keep your sleeves away from the heat source.

Patience

When stubborn nuts are encountered, it seldom is advantageous to crank them with increasingly long levers and short tempers in the hope they will give. The likely result is that the nut shatters or the stem of the bolt breaks off inside the manifold or head, creating many other problems. First try tapping the nut, sharply but not with such force that the bolt could bend; this often is sufficient to break the rust bond. If this fails, move on to other options.

Lubrication

The light lubricating oil ubiquitous in the tool kits and garages of the U.S. is not a penetrating oil, and probably is ineffective on a seized manifold nut. Numerous variations on the theme of penetrating oils are available on the market, and to a greater or lesser extent, all have some effect on a locked-up exhaust head bolt. Spraying penetrating oil onto the bolts and leaving them for the time recommended by the oils manufacturer may not work every time, but this easiest solution is worth trying before any more complex and potentially dangerous methods.

Remove as much rust as possible with a brush or scraper, then spray the exposed threads. Wait the advised time, then work both backward and forward with your socket; tightening as well as loosening works the oil into the threads. Frequently reapply the penetrating oil throughout the process. If time permits, spray a little more oil on and try working the socket every day for several days; this often works even if the first attempt did not.

Heat

Naked flame must be used with great care. The oil and fuel in the engine is flammable and explosive, as is the penetrating oil; aluminum cylinder heads can warp in a heartbeat if the heat transfers to them from the iron nut-bolt assembly. Rubber pipes, vacuum hoses and wiring must be protected. Use an oxy-acetylene torch rather than propane; the nut must heat and swiftly expand before the bolt heats and expands sufficiently to break the rust bond. Have an assistant standing close by.

Heat the nut to a cherry red, then pass the torch to your assistant and -- as quickly as possible but not so quickly as to cause an injury -- get the socket on the nut and, as before, exert pressure in both directions. Once the seize is broken, allow the nut to cool to the point where it is no longer glowing, then apply penetrating oil and finish off using that method.

Car seats suffer through a lot of wear and tear. They get sat on, spilled on, and abused everyday. Over time, the upholstery on your car seats may rip, stain or just appear worn out. Reupholstering your car seats is an inexpensive way to refurbish an older vehicle. Getting car seats professionally upholstered can cost hundreds of dollars, but most car owners can complete this project themselves. Although there are some basics to trimming and upholstering car seats, most people can learn what they need to know while they tackle this project.

Instructions

1

Remove the seats from the car. You will need a wrench and screwdriver to remove the seats from the car. You may need to consult the owners manual for your vehicle for exact instructions on how to remove the seats in your particular make and model of car.

2

Disassemble the upholstery on the car seats. Cut the hog seams that hold the upholstery in place. Remove the listing wires. Cut the seams in the car seat with a seam ripper. Work carefully so the pieces can be used as a template for the new upholstery. Label the pieces as necessary with a marker so you can remember how the upholstery was sewn together.

3

Place the fabric for the new upholstery on a flat surface. Set the old upholstery pieces on top of the new fabric. Trace around the upholstery pieces with a piece of caulk. Cut the new fabric to size with fabric scissors.

4

Sew the cut out pieces of the new upholstery together. Sew a straight 1/4-inch stitch along each of the seams until the upholstery is completely sewn together.

5

Place the new upholstery on the car seat. Slide the listing wires back into the upholstery. Connect the upholstery to the car seat with hog rings.

6

Reinstall the car seats into the car with a wrench and screwdriver.

The crankshaft in a car rotates rapidly when the engine is running, which could cause vibrations that can damage the crankshaft. The purpose of a harmonic balancer, also known as a crankshaft damper, is to minimize the vibrations the crankshaft produces. The crankshaft damper is essentially a weight on the end of the crankshaft that stabilizes its rotation. The crankshaft damper on the crankshaft of a late-model Honda is also the crankshaft pulley.

Instructions

1

Raise the front of the vehicle with a floor jack, and safely support it on jack stands.

2

Remove the left front wheel with a lug wrench. Remove the splash shield on the left front fender with a socket wrench.

3

Connect holder handle "07JAB-001020B" to the crankshaft damper, and attach holder attachment "07MAB-PY3010A" to the holder handle. Hold the crankshaft damper in place with the holder handle and attachment assembly.

4

Turn the mounting bolt on the crankshaft damper counterclockwise with a 19mm socket to remove the mounting bolt from the crankshaft. Pull the crankshaft damper from the crankshaft.

5

Clean the damper, guide plate, mounting bolt and crankshaft with a clean cloth. Lubricate these parts with clean engine oil.

6

Mount the crankshaft damper to the crankshaft, and hold it in place with the holder handle and attachment assembly. Fasten the mounting bolt to the crankshaft, and tighten it to 14.5 foot-pounds with a torque wrench. Tighten the mounting bolt an additional quarter-turn with a socket wrench.

7

Attach the splash shield to the left front fender with a socket wrench. Install the left front wheel and lower the vehicle.

Air conditioning (AC) compressors are a must for proper cooling and can appear in applications such as vehicles or homes. An auto AC compressor is considered to be the most vital of all the parts in a vehicles air conditioning system and is often referred to as the heart of the system. Having information on an AC compressors functions can be beneficial to homeowners and auto owners.

Residential Vs. Auto

AC compressors can vary in location depending on if its for an auto or residential application. An auto AC compressor is connected to a vehicles engine. A residential AC compressors is usually located outside the home encased within a sealed unit.

Auto Compressor Functions

An auto AC compressor has two sides which are vital to how it functions. A suction side allows gases produced from refrigerant to be pulled in. The compressor then compresses the gases and uses its discharge side to transfer them for use to other parts of the system.

Residential Compressor Functions

A residential AC compressor is a pump which brings in refrigerant gas as well. In a residential compressor, this refrigerant gas is brought in through a large suction line. The compressor then uses compression to change the refrigerant into a highly pressurized gas which is then sent to be used in other parts of the system.

You can install weatherstripping on your 57 Chevy right from your home garage. You need a few inexpensive supplies that can be purchased from any auto parts store. Replacing the weatherstripping on a Chevy improves the seal between the door and the frame of the car. Weatherstripping prevents air and moisture from entering the car. Over time weatherstripping will crack and lose its ability to seal the door properly.

Instructions

1

Locate the clips holding the weatherstripping to the Chevy. Remove the clips with needle-nose pliers and put them in your pocket for later reinstallation.

2

Slide the weatherstripping off the door frame channel using your hands.

3

Apply degrease agent to a towel and wipe it on the door frame along the weatherstripping channel. This will remove all grease and dirt.

4

Slide the new weatherstripping onto the weatherstrip channel.

5

Reattach the clips to the weatherstripping and door frame by pushing them over the stripping and snapping them onto the Chevys door frame.

Traction bars are devices that keep the rear axle from "bouncing" on high-performance and specialty vehicles. They are most commonly associated with cars used for racing. Traction bars are also common on four-wheel-drive vehicles that are frequently used off-road. In many cases, such four-by-fours have traction bars installed at the factory as part of the original equipment, so the owner may not even know that his vehicle has them.

The Problem

Many high-performance cars and four-wheel-drive vehicles have leaf springs as part of the rear suspension. Leaf springs provide a more heavy-duty rear suspension than a coil spring can deliver. The leaf springs are attached, at front and rear, to the frame of the vehicle, and the axle is attached to the middle of the springs on both sides. This allows for some rotational give as the axle twists backward when providing forward thrust to the wheels. In hard acceleration, this twisting movement can become exaggerated and cause the drive wheels to start to hop up and down. The drive wheels lose traction and make a terrific clattering noise.

The Solution

Traction bars are heavy, rigid bars made of steel that bolt to the bottom of the springs or axle, or both. They extend to the front spring mounts on the frame of the vehicle. The brackets on both ends of the traction bars are pivoted, so as to avoid creating additional heavy stress points on the suspension. The design prevents wheel hop during hard acceleration in performance cars by preventing the axle from twisting backwards as it delivers forward thrust. Traction bars also help four-wheel-drive vehicles maintain traction in off-road maneuvers by preventing wheel bounce.

Installation

Though installation is simple for the experienced racing enthusiast, a professional shop can adjust them exactly to your car and perform tests to make sure they perform at a peak level. While most four-wheel-drive vehicles already have factory-installed traction bars, trucks that are used for utility purposes on farms and in rural areas can benefit by having traction bars installed.

Adverse Effects

On hot-rods that have reduced ground clearance, traction bars should always be professionally installed. The extra steel in the suspension and the reduced movement in the rear suspension can create serious ground clearance problems in vehicles that have minimal clearance to begin with. In any application, the addition of traction bars will stiffen the rear suspension and make for a less comfortable ride.

The Mazda MX-5 Miata is a small two-seat roadster that has been in production since 1989. Models made since 2005 use a 2.0-liter engine from the MZR family of engines, which feature an all-aluminum block. The Miata uses a single aluminum cylinder head for all four cylinders that is part of the combustion chambers. The procedure for removing the cylinder head on a Miata is generally the same for all models made since 2005.

Instructions

1

Open the filler cap on the fuel tank to relieve the pressure in the fuel tank. Disconnect the relay for the fuel pump from the engine compartment. Start the engine, and allow the engine to stall. Crank the engine a few times to ensure it wont start, and turn the ignition switch to the lock setting. Replace the fuel pump relay.

2

Disconnect the cables from the battery with a socket wrench, and remove the battery. Disconnect the mounting bolts for the battery tray, and remove the tray. Drain the coolant from the radiator into a clean container, and save the coolant for later use.

3

Remove the tower bar from the front suspension member with a socket wrench. Disconnect the air cleaner and ignition coil from the engine. Turn the drive belt tensioner to relieve the tension on the drive belt, and detach the belt from its pulleys.

4

Detach the crankshaft position sensor from the crankshaft. Disconnect the mounting bolts for the power steering pump with a socket wrench if your vehicle is so equipped. Push the pump out of the way to obtain access to the timing chain, and disconnect the timing chain from its sprockets.

5

Disconnect the arm of the windshield wiper with a socket wrench. Detach the side cowl grille, and remove the cover on the service hole cover to access the camshaft.

6

Detach the alternator with a socket wrench. Push the alternator aside to access the exhaust manifold, and remove the exhaust manifold from the vehicle. Disconnect the overhead camshaft valve sensor, if your Miata has variable valve timing.

7

Record the positions of the camshaft caps to ensure you can install the camshafts in their original positions. Disconnect the camshafts, and remove them from the vehicle.

8

Record the position of each mounting bolt for the cylinder head to make sure you can install them to the correct hole. Remove the mounting bolts in two to three passes with a socket wrench, and detach the cylinder head from the engine block. Measure the length of the bolts and replace any that are longer than 5.77 inches.

Truing stands are used to check the wobble and run-out of motorcycle wheels. A recently constructed or suspect wheel is rotated on an axle on a stand and the side to side and up and down movement of the rim is measured with a dial indicator or other device. Well-manufactured truing stands cost as little as $150, and if you intend to build multiple wheels they are worth the investment. Some skilled wheel builders can make do with a pair of plastic milk crates and a wire clothes hanger. For a similar DIY design you can use a swap meet swing arm and other cheap, used motorcycle parts and it should cost about a third as much as a manufactured truing stand.

Instructions

1

Bolt the front of a motorcycle swing arm vertically in a bench vise. Level the top of the swing arm with a bubble level.

2

Insert the hex end of a used, unbent motorcycle axle through, in order, a two inch washer, the swing arm axle hole, a bearing spacer, a sealed wheel bearing assembly, the wheel to be trued, a second sealed wheel bearing assembly, a second bearing spacer, the other side of the swing arm and a second 2 inch washer.

3

Tighten the rear axle nut to the axle with a box wrench.

4

Attach a magnetic dial indicator to the vise to check for run-out error. Attach the magnetic dial indicator to the swing arm to check for wobble.

The 1999 Toyota Corolla comes standard with manual (roll-up) windows; power windows are optional. If you need to remove the cars door panel, youll need to first remove the window crank handle. A special tool is required to do this. The window crank handle is snapped on with a small metal clip, sometimes called a "C" clip because of its shape.

Instructions

1

Purchase a window crank handle tool from any auto parts store. You can also order one online. The tool shouldnt cost you more than $10.

2

Grab the Corollas window crank handle by the knob you use to roll the window down. Gently pull this part of the crank handle away from the door. Behind it, between the door panel and the crank, youll see a small gasket. Insert your tool in between the crank handle and the gasket. Insert it on the side the knob protrudes from.

3

Push the tool gently while still pulling on the handle. Youll hear a snapping sound as the clip pops out.

4

Pull the window crank handle straight away from the door panel.

An automotive recall occurs when a manufacturer discovers a defect in one of their cars. The manufacturer usually mails a recall notice to the owners of the vehicle to alert them, and the owner can then take the car to a dealership for free repair. However, if you have moved recently or purchased a used car, you may not have received those notices.

Instructions

1

Visit the Carfax website listed in the Resources section and enter your Pontiacs VIN number to see if there are any open recalls for that car.

2

Check your repair records to see if recall work was performed.

3

Take the car to a Pontiac dealership. The dealership will have a complete list of recalls for that vehicle, and will be able to assess the car to determine if the vehicles recall repairs were ever done.

The SuperTrapp exhaust on many Big Dog motorcycles is a tunable exhaust. Most motorcycle exhausts use baffle tubes and chambers to modify the exhaust stream. The baffles make the exhaust change direction and slow down. Slower exhaust is quieter because the exhaust stream contacts high frequency absorbing packing materials longer. SuperTrapp exhausts modify the last stage of exhaust flow with tuning discs. The gap between the discs is smaller on the inside than the outside. The idea is to create expansion chambers with the discs which increases what is usually called the "scavenging effect" of an exhaust system on engine exhaust. This is how to replace and tune all modifiable parts in a SuperTrapp two into one exhaust.

Instructions

1

Loosen and remove the three end cap Allen screws from the end of the exhaust with an Allen socket and socket wrench. Remove the end cap and disc stack.

2

Remove and keep handy the two Allen screws on the bottom of the exhaust outlet. Remove the SuperTrapp core assembly from the muffler body.

3

Slide the replacement core assembly into the muffler shell. Align the screw holes in the new core with the screw hole in the muffler shell.

4

Secure the new core in the muffler shell by reinstalling the two Allen screws with an Allen socket and wrench. Tighten the screws to 20 inch- pounds of torque with the Allen socket and a torque wrench.

5

Count the stackable discs in your disc stack assembly. Your exhaust may contain as many as 20 discs or as few as 12. SuperTrapp suggests you experiment with different numbers of discs until your engine finds its "sweet spot."

6

Stack the discs you decide to use inside the muffler end cap. The flat surface of the discs should face the core assembly.

7

Apply SuperTrapp brand high temperature lubricant or its equivalent to the Allen screw threads. Replace the end cap and disc assembly in the end of the muffler.

8

Tighten the Allen screws to 20 inch-pounds of torque with the Allen socket and a torque wrench. Test the performance of your motorcycle on the road.

The transmission system on the Porsche Boxster Series consists of a six-speed manual gearbox with a dual mass flywheel to reduce engine noise. The transmission can operate either in full automatic or via driver-commanded gear changes. When problems arise within the Boxsters transmission system, the problem can stem from several possible causes. Remedies will target the parts relevant to the occurring symptoms.

Problems of the Transmission Fluid

If you have trouble shifting your Porsche Boxster, check your transmission fluid levels. Keeping the transmission and integrated differential lubricated plays a pivotal role in preventing wear on the rings and sliders involved in shifting smoothly. The transmission fluid will also help abate temperature increases in the transmission. A general rule of thumb for transmission for Boxsters calls for a fluid change every 30,000 miles or every two years, depending on use. You must jack up all four corners of the vehicle. Changing your transmission fluid will involve changing both your automatic transmission fluid and the differential transmission fluid, which uses the same oil as a manual transmission. (The transmission fluid is specially designated for the Boxster; do not mix or match it with other types of transmission fluid.) Transmission gear oil with the specification SAE 75W90 should work as a lubricant for the differential of a Boxster.

Problem of the Mounts

One of the more common transmission problems you will face with a Porsche Boxster involves the wearing down of the rubber on the transmission mounts that separate the drivetrain from the rest of the chassis. As the mounts become older and more brittle, they will not be able to hold the drivetrain securely during shifting. Telltale signs that you need to replace these mounts include cracks in the mounts (regardless of the number of miles on the car), as well as leaking from the mounts, as your Boxster has a hydraulic system. Replacement Porsche Boxster mounts are expensive at about $250, but they do include a triangular bracket. To secure your drivetrain completely, replace the front motor mounts at the same time you replace the transmission mounts.

Problems of the Differential

Several Porsche Boxster transmission problems may originate from the differential --- part of the transmission in what is together called the transaxle. Leaking from the driveshaft could likely stem from differential seals that have deteriorated. When replacing these seals, also check the differentials carrier bearings to find out whether you must replace them as well. If you experience high-pitched whining or grinding noises that replacing the wheel bearings or CV joints does not alleviate, the sounds may stem from worn carrier bearings. Replace these preferably when the transmission is out of the car --- during a clutch or engine job, for example --- as it will facilitate these tasks.

Problems of the Suspension

If the suspension system is creating problems for your Boxsters transmission, some common items to replace involve the Constant Velocity joints, boots and axle that connect the wheels to the transmission. These components take the brunt of abuse and tend to wear down after 100,000 miles. You will know you have a suspension problem when you hear clunking sounds coming from the rear axle while driving. You have the option of replacing either the inner CV joints or the entire axle system. The new axle will include the outer CV joint as well as inner joint, along with the boots or coverings that protect these joints. If you are only replacing the inner joints, lubricate them thoroughly.

Problems of the Clutch

If the hydraulic clutch engagement system in your Porsche Boxster fails, you may experience the following symptoms: leaking the slave or master cylinder, a spongy feeling to the clutch pedal and grinding during gear shifting. Start with checking or replacing the slave cylinder, then do the same for the master cylinder an bleed the brakes. If the clutch problem is more serious, you may have to replace the entire clutch assembly. Warning signs of clutch assembly failure include spongy pedals, excessive free play, grinding or changing noises when you press the pedal and slippage of the clutch when you do not depress the pedal. City driving will tend to produce these problems more often than highway driving and may call for clutch replacement at 30,000 miles.

When the clutch pedal on your Honda Accord becomes soft, theres a good chance you are experiencing a faulty clutch master cylinder. If left unchecked at this point, it is only a matter of time before the master cylinder completely fails and you will be unable to shift your car. If you have a couple of hours and minimal tools, you can replace the clutch master cylinder at home.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the cable from the negative terminal on your cars battery. This is an essential first step in any car repair due to the risk of electrical shock.

2

Pull the cotter pin located about halfway up the clutch pedal assembly. While you are under the dashboard, you also need to remove the pedal pin from the yoke.

3

Locate the master cylinder on the engine compartment side of the firewall. Turn the bolts counterclockwise to remove them from the firewall so you can remove the faulty master cylinder.

4

Remove the hydraulic lines from the master cylinder. Make sure you have rags on your work surface so you minimize the mess from leaking clutch fluid.

5

Place the hydraulic lines on the new master cylinder and install the master cylinder onto the firewall. Turn the bolts clockwise to properly tighten them.

6

Insert the pedal pin into the yoke and the cotter pin into the clutch pedal assembly.

7

Fill the fluid reservoir with clutch fluid but do not put the cap on the reservoir. Press the clutch pedal several times to expel any air pockets from the hydraulic lines and top off the reservoir with more fluid. After you have bled the lines, replace the cap and tighten it.

8

Reconnect the battery to complete the repair process.

The engine oil for the Suzuki DF60 marine motor should be changed every season. In some cases, it should be changed every 100 hours to ensure the longevity and maintenance of the engine. Changing the oil in the boat can be a messy job. But with the right equipment, you can do the job quickly and easily.

Instructions

1

Start the Suzuki DF60 motor and let it run for a few minutes. This will warm up the oil in the engine and make it easier to extract.

2

Open the engine cap and locate the dipstick tube. Engage the oil evacuation system to drain the oil from the engine. Loosen the oil filter with a filter wrench as the oil is draining.

3

Collect the oil in an oil pan or jug as it drains from the engine. Replace it with new oil. Use Suzuki 10W-40 engine oil. Pour approximately 1.8 quarts of engine oil into the receptacle.

4

Change the oil filter by unscrewing it. Replace it with a new oil filter and put the old one in a plastic bag for disposal. Use a funnel to ensure the oil is kept contained to the engine and does not cause a mess. Replace the oil cap.

When the oxygen sensors in your 1997 RAV4 fail, you will find yourself paying significantly more at the fuel pumps until you replace it. The sensor regulates the engines fuel consumption based on the oxygen density of the exhaust. For the most cost-effective repair method, purchase replacement oxygen sensors from an auto-parts store. Change them at home for the cost of parts, saving the labor expense of a service center.

Instructions

1

Raise the RAV4 with a jack and insert a set of jack stands beneath the truck. Remove the jack when the jack stands are secure.

2

Pull the electrical connection apart to disconnect it from the top of the sensor. The sensors are threaded into the exhaust system on either side of the catalytic converter.

3

Remove the sensor with a ratchet equipped with an oxygen sensor socket. Install the new sensor by hand to avoid cross threading, which can damage the sensor and the mounting area. Press the electrical connection into place.

4

Repeat the process for the second sensor if needed. Raise the car with a jack to remove the jack stands. Return the RAV4 to the ground.

The two catalytic converters in a Chevy truck are connected to the exhaust system. They help reduce pollutants and control emissions in order to meet both federal and state regulations. If either catalytic converter is not working, it needs to be removed to check for any blockages, or for replacement.

Instructions

1

Raise and support the entire truck on jack stands. Disconnect the negative cable on the battery as a precaution.

2

Disengage the electrical connectors to the oxygen sensors. There are two oxygen sensors attached to each catalytic converter---a pre-converter sensor located near the front end of the converter and a post-converter sensor near the end.

3

Use a small ratchet wrench to remove the flange bolts connecting the catalytic converter to the exhaust pipe. Separate the pipe from the converter, and support the pipe. You can use the trucks floor jack, but place a board on top of the jack to keep it from damaging the pipe.

4

Remove the bolts that attach the converters header pipe to the exhaust manifold. The studs and nuts here often are rusty, so apply penetrating oil to them for easier removal.

5

Take off the catalytic converter and its pipe assembly. Repeat for the other converter if needed.

6

Clean away any carbon deposits built up on the mounting flanges with brake cleaner or the penetrating oil. Discard the gaskets; use new gaskets on the flanges when the new catalytic converter is installed.

Ford produced an eight-cylinder, 7.3-liter diesel engine from 1995 to 2002. This engine was frequently turbocharged and typically appeared in heavier trucks, beginning with the 3/4-ton pickups. Each cylinder has its own fuel injector, which delivers fuel to that cylinder at high pressure. You can remove each fuel injector on a Ford 7.3-liter diesel engine independently of the other injectors without removing the fuel rail from the engine.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the valve cover with a socket wrench. Unplug the electrical connector from the fuel injector and disconnect the drain plugs on the oil rail. Disconnect the oil deflector by removing its mounting screw with a socket wrench. Disconnect the outboard retaining bolt for the fuel injector.

2

Place the fulcrum of the Injector Remover No. T94T-9000-AH1 above the cylinder head and below the fuel injectors hold-down plate. Attach the injector remover to the cylinder head with the remover screw for the injector remover. Tighten the screw until the fuel injector comes out of the injector bore.

3

Discard the copper washer on the fuel injector. Use the Rotunda Injector Sleeve Brush 104-00934-A to remove any sealant residue from the injector bore and clean the injector bore with a shop towel. Coat the new fuel injector in engine oil and install a new copper washer to the injector. Place the fuel injector into its bore.

4

Position the end of the Injector Replacer No. T94T-9000-AH2 below the fuel injector and above the hold-down plate. Align the threaded hole in the cylinder head with the hole on the injector replacer tool. Install the bolt for the injector replacer tool to fasten the tool to the cylinder head. Tighten the bolt to fully seat the fuel injector into the injector bore on the cylinder.

5

Install the oil deflector, fuel rail drain plug and oil rail drain plug with a torque wrench. Torque the oil deflector mounting bolt to 108 foot-pounds. Torque the drain plug for the fuel rail to 96 foot-pounds and torque the drain plug for the fuel rail to 53 foot-pounds. Attach the electrical connector for the fuel injector and replace the valve cover with a socket wrench.

The Chevrolet 283 was a small-block V-8 engine produced between 1957 and 1967. Said to be the first American-built engine to offer one horsepower per cubic inch of displacement, the 283 was designated for use in the Bel Air, the Impala, the Biscayne and Chevrolet station wagons, and also was an option in Checker Taxis between 1965 and 1967.

General Specs and Tune Up

The Chevrolet 283 displaced 283 cubic inches, with a compression ratio of 8.5:1. It turned out 170 horsepower at 4,200 rpm, and the maximum torque was 275 ft.-lbs. at 2,400 rpm. The normal oil pressure was 35 pounds. The engine had a 3.875-inch bore and a 3-inch stroke. The make of the spark plugs was AC 44, with a gap of .035 inches. When idling, the engine ran at 425 rpm.

Piston, Ring and Valve

The shim thickness of the pistons was .0015 inches and they measure between seven and 18 pounds on a pull scale. The diameter of the wrist pin was 0.9271 inches. The ring end gap compression was 0.01 inches. With mechanical valve lifters, the valve had a hot operating clearance of 0.012 inches for the intake and 0.018 inches for exhaust. With hydraulic valve lifters and one carburetor, the valve had no operating clearance. The valve seat angle measured 46 degrees. The inner valve spring pressure measured 160 pounds at 1.30 inches. The valve stem diameter for the intake measured 0.3336 inch, and the exhaust also measured 0.3336 inch.

Capacity

The Chevrolet 283s cooling system had a capacity of 17.5 quarts without a heater and 18.5 quarts with a heater. Oil capacity was four quarts, plus one for a filter change. The standard capacity for transmission fluid was two pints, but engines with overdrive had a capacity of three pints and automatic transmissions required 3.5 quarts. Four-speed transmissions held 1.5 pints.

The process of fixing a 1967 Camaro horn is similar to replacing horns in other makes and models. The key to this process is locating the part that creates produces the sound, which is found under the hood near the car battery. After buying a replacement, the installation of the new horn is simple and will take only a short amount of time.

Instructions

1

Find the metal piece shaped like a disc underneath your hood. This part is held into place by screws just behind the grille of the car.

2

Remove the screws holding the part into place by using your screwdriver. Remove the power wire plugged into the horn.

3

Pull the horn from the Camaro.

4

Take the replacement part and set it into place. Tighten it securely with the screws you previously removed. Plug the power wires into the horn. Test it out by pushing the horn button on the steering wheel. When you hear a sound the installation is complete.

A low but loud roaring noise or a high-pitched hissing sound while driving can be evidence of an exhaust problem. Leaks in the exhaust pipe/system can be problematic, beyond just the annoying noise, as exhaust leaks also produce a leak of carbon monoxide into the car via the air vents, according to AA1Car.

Instructions

1

Cool the engine completely and jack up the vehicle for repair.

2

Locate the hole and damaged area of the exhaust pipe. Saw off a piece of the pipe with a hacksaw and then level both pieces. There is a possibility that removal of the rubber grommets or support wires, which hold both the muffler and/or exhaust pipe in place, may be necessary.

3

Make and insert the inner exhaust sleeve: using the tin snips, cut the sheet of aluminum in half. Fold one of the halves in half, creating a double layer of aluminum sheet metal. Wrap the folded half around your broomstick handle, rolling the sheet metal into a sleeve. Roll the sleeve slightly smaller than your exhaust pipe, but not too small, as this will cause it to shift and move around. After creating the inner sleeve, insert it into both parts of the sawed exhaust pipe.

4

Make and insert the outer exhaust sleeve. With the remaining half of aluminum sheet, fold it in half. Again, use the broomstick handle to roll the piece of sheet metal into a sleeve. This sleeve should be slightly larger than your vehicles tailpipe. Attach the outer sleeve to the exhaust pipe. The sleeve must overlap both parts of the exhaust that you have sawed and fitted. With the U-bolts, secure the outer sleeve to the exhaust pipe, leaving approximately one-half to one inch of space outside of the U-bolts and enabling you to wrap the pipe with muffler tape.

Bed liners come in plastic, rubber, and painted-on varieties but all serve the same purpose: they protect your truck or vehicle from damage. Liners act as a cushion when loading and unloading objects, and protect the trucks bed from rain, dirt and debris. At times, damage requires that the liner be replaced or cut. At other times, custom additions to your bed require custom modification of the bed liner. Cutting a liner requires very few tools and takes only minutes.

Instructions

1

Measure the area to be cut. If you will be cutting the lip off of the liner, measurements are not needed. If you will be cutting holes into the liner, measure the location of each hole in reference to the front of the liner including width and depth. With the liner still installed, you can readily trace the measurements from the truck to the liner without measuring, but be precise when doing so.

2

Lift the liner from the vehicle. Most liners lift straight out of the vehicle or slide out of the vehicle. If yours is secured to the body, unbolt any retaining bolts before lifting or sliding out the liner.

3

Stabilize the area to be cut using clamps and wood blocks as needed. Make sure nothing is in the path of the cutting tools.

4

Mark the area to be cut. Use masking tape to cover the line that you will cut, to protect the surface of the liner from damage. Use a pencil to outline your cut on top of the tape.

5

Cut out the section of the liner using an oscillating tool. Hold the oscillating tool carefully and trace the line on the tape until the cut is complete.

6

Remove the tape and lightly sand the cut edge. Cut plastic is sharp. Sand the area with 80- to 100-grit sandpaper to remove burrs and smooth out the cut. Replace the bed liner.

The Chevrolet Blazer is a mid-sized sport utility vehicle made by General Motors and it is very similar to the GMC Jimmy. The 1996 Blazer has a 4.3-liter 6-cylinder engine with sequential fuel injection. The electric pump in the 1996 Chevrolet Blazer attaches to the fuel sending unit in the fuel tank. It is, therefore, necessary to remove the fuel tank when replacing the fuel pump in this vehicle.

Instructions

1

Turn off the engine for 10 minutes to allow the fuel system to depressurize. Disconnect the negative terminal on the battery with a socket wrench to prevent accidental sparking while you work on the vehicle. Loosen the filler cap for the fuel tank to relieve the pressure in the fuel tank.

2

Siphon the fuel in the fuel tank into a gasoline container. Raise the vehicle and support it on jack stands. Release the retaining clamp for the filler hose on the fuel tank and disconnect the filler hose.

3

Support the the fuel tank with a floor jack. Remove the fuel tank straps with a socket wrench. Lower the fuel tank slightly so you can remove the fuel lines and electrical connections for the fuel sending unit. Lower the fuel tank completely and move it to a work area.

4

Turn the cam locking ring for the fuel sending unit counterclockwise with GM tool No. J-24187. Remove the cam locking ring and lift the fuel sending unit from the fuel tank. Pull the fuel pump away from its bottom support, and then pull it into its mounting tube. Use care not to damage the insulator or fuel strainer.

5

Install the new fuel pump by performing Steps 2 to 4 in reverse order. Tighten the nuts on the fuel tanks retaining strap to 33 feet/lbs. with a torque wrench. Connect the cable for the negative terminal on the battery with a socket range and correct any fuel leaks.

A broken CV joint can propel your Subaru right off the road. Its a part well worth the time and effort to replace. A 1993 Subaru Legacy has CV axles in the front and rear of the vehicle, depending on the model. The most efficient way to replace a CV joint is to replace the entire CV axle with a new or re-manufactured axle. The front CV axles are more difficult to replace due to the more complicated front steering and suspension assembly, but most aspiring do-it-yourselfers should be up to the task.

Instructions

Preparing to Remove the Axle

1

Park the car on a level surface and set the emergency brake. Make sure the Subaru is parked in third gear or higher if it has a manual transmission. Slightly loosen the lug nuts. Do not jack up the vehicle.

2

Remove any covers over the axle nut (also called the spindle nut, it is located at the center of the wheel on the end of the axle). Pry or beat out any indentations in the slotted portion of the axle, using a straight screwdriver. Spray penetrating oil on the nut if any rust is present. Then, using the breaker bar and a six-point socket of the correct size, break the axle nut free, but do not remove it.

3

Jack up the vehicle and lower it onto a jack stand. Make sure the vehicle is safely supported--you are going to have to crawl underneath it. Remove the wheel and the axle nut.

4

Unbolt the sway bar bracket from the lower control arm. Remove the cotter pin and castellated nut from the lower ball joint. Separate the lower ball joint from the steering knuckle with a ball joint separator. Remove the lower control arm the rest of the way by unbolting it at the two points immediately above where the sway bar bracket was attached.

5

Remove the cotter pin and castellated nut from the tie rod where it attaches to the steering knuckle. Use the tie rod separator to remove the tie rod from the steering knuckle; then push the detached end of the tie rod out of the way.

6

Crawl underneath the vehicle and locate the retaining pin that passes through the axle where it joins the transmission or front differential. Using a hammer and a small punch or a Phillips-head screwdriver, pound out the retaining pin.

Removing and Reinstalling the Axle

7

Remove the CV axle from the end at the transmission. Use a flat screwdriver or another suitable prying tool to separate the axle from the transmission or front differential.

8

Remove the axle from the steering knuckle using the axle puller.

9

Slide the new axle through the steering knuckle, and install the new axle nut. Tighten it by hand for now.

10

Align the axle retention pin holes on the new CV axle and the transmission end. Slide the new axle into place at the transmission end and install a new retention pin.

Finishing the Job

11

Re-install the lower control arm, tie rod and sway bar bracket. Using the torque wrench, tighten the nuts on the lower control arm to 113 Nm, according to the 1993 Subaru Legacy repair manual published by Chilton Library.

12

Tighten down the castellated nuts on the tie rod and ball joint, and install new cotter pins.

13

Torque down the new axle nut--the torque figure for this nut is 186 Nm, as also specified by the 1993 Subaru Legacy repair manual. Using a hammer and screwdriver or punch, score the outside of the axle nut at the keyed portion on the axle.

14

Put the wheel back in place and tighten down the lug nuts. Raise the vehicle, remove the jack stand, and gently lower your Subaru to the ground. Re-tighten the lug nuts.

Check the transmission fluid level on the 1996 manual Volkswagen Golf whenever checking other fluid levels in the engine. Adding transmission fluid to the Golf requires a special drive bit made specifically for Volkswagens that can be purchased in most auto parts shops. Performing this routine maintenance keeps the gears shifting smoothly and prevents costly damage to the transmission.

Instructions

1

Drive the car for 5 to 10 minutes to warm up the engine slightly. Doing this gives a more accurate read of the vehicles transmission fluid level. Jack the front of the car up to easily access the underside.

2

Slide underneath the car and locate the gearbox, which is a round metal container near the center of the car with two bolts, one in front and one behind. Place the pan underneath the rear bolt to catch any liquid that may escape.

3

Mount the VW drive bit into the socket wrench. Remove the rear bolt, which is the fill plug. Look at the level of fluid in the fill hole; it should line up with the bottom of the hole. If it is not level with the hole, adding transmission fluid is necessary.

4

Place the tube of the fluid pump into the fill hole and pump the bottle to deliver the transmission fluid to the gearbox. Stop when the fluid begins to trickle out.

5

Replace the fill plug and lower the car.

Removing the pins from the door hinges of your Mustang will allow you to remove the door or replace worn bushings on the hinges. When you remove the pins, the door will be unattached and must be supported or it will fall, potentially damaging the door, window, or other components. New pins and bushings are sold at auto parts stores.

Instructions

1

Open the door of your Mustang and slide a jack under the door. Place a piece of wood between the bottom of the door and the jack, and raise the wood with the jack until the door is resting on the wood.

2

Locate the top pin in the center of the door hinge and tap the bottom of the pin with a hammer to push it up. Do not drive the pin out of the hinge; just push it high enough to create a gap between the top of the hinge and the head of the pin.

3

Slide a flat pry bar under the head of the pin and pry it up and out of the hinge as you stabilize the door to keep it from falling over. Move the bar to the bottom pin and pry it out.

4

Lift the door off the hinges and set it aside.

The Volvo 850 is a compact executive car sold on the North American market from 1992 to 1997. Options included several body styles and a choice of engines. This front-wheel drive vehicle requires periodic axle service and occasional replacement of the axle.

Instructions

Removal Procedure

1

Remove the front wheel and the ABS sensor from the steering swivel member. Take out the brake pipe bracket and ABS lead. Unhook the bracket, and let it hang free. Remove the drive shaft center nut. Pull out the split pin from the hub center nut. Use counter-hold tool No. 999 5461 (on models with four wheel bolts) or tool No. 999 5540 (on models with five wheel bolts), and remove the nuts. Disconnect the drive shaft end from the hub.

2

Tap the shaft end in approximately 10 to 15 millimeters, using a plastic or copper mallet. Remove the link arm from the anti-roll bar and the nuts holding the link arm and ball joint together. Unhook the link arm from the ball joint.

3

Remove the drive shaft from the hub. First, twist and pull out the strut. Then tap on the drive shaft end with a plastic or copper mallet to remove it from hub. Clean the metal glue from the spline joint (hub-drive shaft).

4

Pull out the bearing caps from the drive shaft support bearing and the drive shaft gearbox if you are working on the right axle. Take care not to damage the seals in the transmission and drive shaft boot (gaiter). If you are working on the left axle, use prying tool No. 999 5462 to remove the drive shaft from the transmission. Do this by applying leverage between the transmission and the inside of the drive shaft.

Installation Procedure

5

Inspect the ABS sensor. It should be free of dirt. Push in the drive shaft, ensuring that its clip engages in the differential groove. Take care not to damage the drive shaft seal or boots. Install the bearing cap. Tighten it by applying 18 foot pounds of torque.

6

Install the drive shaft in the hub. Apply metal glue to the drive shaft splines. Twist and remove the strut, and fit the drive shaft into the hub. Use a socket wrench to hold the link arm down. Install a new drive shaft nut, and hand-tighten it.

7

Install the link arm onto the ball joint. Use new nuts. Ensure that the mating surfaces on the ball joint and the link arm are clean and free of grease. Tighten the nuts to 13 foot pounds, plus an additional 120 degrees. Apply a rust proofing agent to the areas between the ball joint, link arm and nuts.

8

Link the arm to the anti-roll bar with new nuts, and tighten them to 37 foot pounds. Tighten the drive shaft center nut. Use counter-hold tool No. 999 5461 (on models with four wheel bolts) or tool No. 999 5540 (on models with five wheel bolts). Tighten the nuts to 89 foot pounds, plus an additional 60 degrees. Lock the drive shaft center nut. Use a chisel to tap the locking nut flange into the drive shaft slot.

9

Install the brake pipe/ABS lead bracket. Ensure that the ABS sensor seat is absolutely clean. Clean the ABS sensor with a soft brush, fit it onto wheel shaft and tighten it to eight foot pounds. Install the front wheel. Ensure that brake disc and pad contact surfaces are clean.

A clear coat on a car gives it a new, fresh look, and it protects the paint job from the elements. If you are refinishing your car or are looking to customize a vehicle, the clear coat is applied after you finish painting. You can hire a professional to finish your car for you, but this is expensive. Clear coating your own car takes little time and effort and is also inexpensive. To do it yourself, you need little more than some sandpaper, an airbrush and some clear coat.

Instructions

1

Cover anything you do not want clear coated with newspaper or plastic sheeting. This includes windows, door handles, mirrors and head and tail lights. Use masking tape to secure the protective covering in place.

2

Dip your sandpaper in water to moisten it. Use the wet sandpaper to sand the entire surface of your car until it is smooth. Remoisten the sandpaper as needed throughout the sanding. When choosing sandpaper, use a fine grain. Leave the car to dry completely.

3

Wipe your entire car down with a wet rag to remove any dust and debris. When you clear coat, you will seal in everything on the cars surface. Allow the car to dry again.

4

Prepare your clear coat according to manufacturers instructions. Each brand will have a different set of instructions on mixing. Add the mixed clear coat to an airbrush.

5

Use steady strokes to coat the entire car with the airbrush. Work in 12 inch sections to ensure evenness in the coating.

6

Leave your clear coat to dry completely. Drying times will vary by product as well as environmental conditions.

7

Remove all of the protective coverings from your car.

8

Polish your car using an electric buffer and buffing compound of your choice.

EGR stands for "exhaust gas recirculation." An EGR pipe is a device used to return some of the exhaust from an engine back into the induction system (Reference 1: Overview).

EGR Pipe Benefits

EGR pipes have two major benefits. First, they increase fuel efficiency, which increases convenience and saves drivers money. Secondly, they produce reduced CO2 emissions compared to engines that lack an EGR valve. This may have a positive influence in retarding climate change.

EGR Pipes for 307 Engines

EGR pipes for 307 engines are a kind of diaphragm valve. These valves operate according a pneumatic or air pressure-powered system.

Matching Engines and Cost

As of February 2011, many makes of car use the 307 engine, and thus can use the EGR pipe made for such engines. These include GM, Chrysler, Ford and Peugeot. The valve is available for approximately 100 Euros or $138.

Riders of modern motorcycles are pretty spoiled. Modern bikes, with their advanced electronic ignitions and fuel injection, roar to life with the push of a button. Most motorcycles built before 1982 came with a kick starter to augment an electric starter. Some didnt have an electric starter at all. They require a bit more energy before they can hit the road.

Instructions

1

Turn on the motorcycles ignition switch with the key. Flip the kill switch on the right handlebar to the on position.

2

Turn the fuel valve under the left side of the gas tank to the on position. Open the carburetors choke with the choke lever on the side of the carburetor.

3

Flip out the kick start lever and press down on it gently until it becomes slightly harder to push.

4

Kick down hard on the lever, following through to the bottom of the levers stroke, to start the motor. Repeat as needed until the motor starts.

5

Allow the motor to warm up for three to five minutes. Close the choke

The exhaust system is an important part of your vehicle, because it expels burned engine gases from the car. The exhaust also controls emissions of your vehicle, and any damage or leaks to it can affect the performance of the car. Poisonous carbon monoxide can seep into the passenger area, which is why it is important to diagnose and repair exhaust leaks right away.

Physical Damage and Leaks

Perform a visual examination of the vehicle and its exhaust system for signs of physical damage or scrapes. Look for signs of black soot on the exhaust and tailpipe, which is a sign that there is carbon built up from a leak.

Scraping the bottom of the car while driving over a curb or speed bump is a common way to cause damage to the exhaust. Holes and scrapes can cause the exhaust to start leaking.

The oxygen sensor is in the exhaust system, and scraping the bottom of the vehicle can damage the oxygen sensor, which will cause exhaust leaks.

Check your vehicles undercarriage for signs of rust. Older vehicles are vulnerable to rusting, and rust will eat metal, causing leaks in the exhaust pipe.

Welded joints are common spots for exhaust leaks. Check all joints on the exhaust and make sure there is no rust or damage.

Shaking and Noise

Vehicles with an exhaust leak will shake and rattle while idling at a red light. A different noise, such as a ticking or popping, is a common sign of an exhaust leak. A loud roaring noise that is different from the usual sounds your car makes is also a sign of an exhaust leak problem.

Have a friend gently accelerate the engine while you have the hood up and are listening outside the vehicle. Listen for a deep, throaty sound or loud sputtering that sounds different from what you are used to hearing from the car.

Gas Smell

Smelling a gas while your cars windows are rolled up is a sign of an exhaust leak. This sign is often easier to notice in colder months when you drive with the windows up and the vents are opened for hot air. The odor may not be noticeable while you are outside the vehicle but is always present as you are driving.