Fix It

The alternator in a 1992 Chevy Lumina is what supplies the power for everything electrical in the car. The cars alternator is also responsible for keeping the battery fully charged. When the alternator goes bad, none of this happens. Your battery goes dead and you wont be able to start the car anymore. The alternator works on the principle of a magnet moving across a wire inducing current flow and voltage. This voltage and current are internally regulated to levels that are usable by your car.



Changing the alternator in your front wheel drive 1992 Chevy Lumina is a fairly easy project that anyone with the proper tools can accomplish in a couple of hours.

Instructions

Removal of Old Alternator

1

Loosen and remove the negative battery cable from the battery, using the 5/16 wrench. Tuck it out of the way. Ensure that it wont move and make contact with the battery while youre working.

2

Insert the square drive of the ratchet into the square opening on the tensioner pulley and pull the pulley off the serpentine belt. With the tension on the belt released, carefully pull the serpentine belt off the alternator pulley and push it out of the way. Normally, you need to turn this pulley clockwise to release tension.

3

Loosen the two bolts that secure the alternator to the side of the engine closest to the bulkhead between the engine bay and passenger compartment using the ratchet and a 9/16 or 5/8 socket. You need to turn these bolts counter-clockwise to remove them. Set these bolts aside where you can easily reach them during installation.

4

Lift the alternator out of its location. There will be a two wire connectors on the back of the alternator. One is a screw terminal and the other is plug. Both of these need to be removed. Squeeze the connector and pull straight out. Use a 3/8 or 10mm wrench to remove the nut securing the large single wire. Set the old alternator aside as youll need to return it for a core refund.

Installation of the New Alternator

5

Connect the large wire to the lug labeled "BAT" on the back of the alternator and secure it with the nut and washer provided.Use the same wrench you used for removal to tighten the nut. Insert the two wire connector into the connector on the alternator.

6

Lower the alternator into place with one hand and, using the other hand, insert the bolts and thread them in as much as you can by hand. Use the ratchet to make the bolts as tight as you can. The bolts need to be turned clockwise to install them.

7

Route the serpentine belt back onto the alternator pulley and up to the tensioner pulley. Insert the square drive of the ratchet into the square opening on the tensioner pulley and turn clockwise to lift the pulley out of the way. Carefully slide the serpentine belt over the tensioner pulley and slowly let the spring take tension back onto the belt.

8

Reattach the negative battery cable. Use the 5/16 wrench to tighten the terminal bolt clockwise.

The rear shocks on your Dodge Ram can be replaced with KYB shocks. KYB offers shocks that are more durable than the stock units. Shocks should be replaced every 75,000 miles. However, the extra weight while towing in the rear will decrease the life expectancy of the rear shocks. KYB shocks may be purchased online or at any auto parts store. Because there are only two mounting bolts at each shock, installation can be done yourself.

Instructions

1

Locate the spare tire lowering tool under the seat of your vehicle.

2

Insert the end into the rotating socket found between the tailgate and the rear bumper. Rotate the tool until the spare tire is lowered to the ground. Remove the spare tire.

3

Locate the mounting bolts on the shock absorbers. Spray penetrating fluid on the bolt and the nut and allow it to sit for 10 minutes.

4

Loosen and remove the bolts with a ratchet and 13/16-inch socket. There is no need to hold the nut on the opposite side with a wrench as it is designed to hold itself by utilizing a tab on the nut. Keep the bolts and nuts for re-installation of the new shocks.

5

Pull the shock from the mounting brackets.

6

Place the KYB shock into the brackets. Install the bolts and thread the nuts on the opposite sides.

7

Tighten the bolts with a 13/16-inch socket and a ratchet.

8

Repeat these steps to the opposite side of the vehicle.

9

Replace the spare tire and rotate the tool to lift it back under the vehicle. Place the tool back under the seat.

Rebuilt, or remanufactured engines, are comprised of parts from older engines that have been rejuvenated and reassembled. Consumers often find that the pros outweigh the cons of purchasing a rebuilt engine for their vehicle.

Cost

The costs resulting from a broken down car engine can be quite high. Whether you choose to get the engine repaired or have a new one installed, you can expect to spend big bucks. Even if you decide to trade the car in for a new vehicle, your monthly payments may be draining on your budget. Rebuilt engines are often a much more cost effective option.

Reliability

Rebuilt engines differ from used engines. Used engines may have had small repairs made to them. All the critical components in rebuilt engines have either been repaired or completely replaced, and generally meet or exceed the original performance standards, offering long-term reliability.

Environment

When you choose to replace your vehicles old, damaged engine with a rebuilt version, you are making an environmentally-friendly decision. A rebuilt engine can extend the life of your vehicle, thus reducing the need for you to purchase a new one. This helps to reduce the energy and resources used in manufacturing new vehicles.

The Subaru Impreza WRX is an all-wheel vehicle available as a wagon or sedan. Subaru has manufactured the Impreza WRX since 1992 and completely updated this vehicle line in 2002. The 2002 WRX wagon has a turbocharged 2.0-liter engine with sequential fuel injection, requiring a high-pressure fuel system. The fuel pump in this vehicle is accessible from the rear passenger compartment. The installation of a new fuel pump in a 2002 WRX wagon also requires you to relieve the fuel system pressure and drain the fuel tank.

Instructions

1

Remove the rear seat cushion to expose the access cover for the fuel pump. Disconnect the mounting bolts for the access cover with a socket wrench and remove the access cover. Detach the electrical harness from the fuel pump and start the engine. Allow the engine to stall and crank it again for at least five seconds to ensure that the fuel system is empty.

2

Disconnect the cable on the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench. Raise the vehicle with a jack and support it on jack stands. Place a gasoline container under the drain on the fuel tank and remove the front cover for the fuel tank. Remove the drain plug for the fuel tank and drain the fuel into the container.

3

Fasten the drain plug and tighten it to between 14 and 24 pound-feet with a socket wrench. Replace the front cover for the fuel tank and and torque its retainers to between 9.4 and 16.6 pound-feet.

4

Detach the fuel lines from the fuel pump and remove the mounting nuts for the fuel pump with a socket wrench. Pull the fuel pump assembly from the fuel tank and discard the gasket.

5

Place the new gasket into the mounting groove on the fuel tank and install the new fuel pump assembly. Tighten the mounting nuts for the fuel pump assembly to 3 pound-feet with a torque wrench.

6

Connect the electrical harness and fuel lines to the fuel pump assembly and lower the vehicle. Replace the fuel pump cover and fasten the mounting bolts with a socket wrench. Replace the rear seat cushion and connect the negative battery terminal. Start the engine and check the fuel system for leaks.

Sand is best left on the beach or in a sand box. If it makes its way to your autos gas tank you may be in for a headache and expense.

History

The concepts of putting something other than gas in the gas tank allegedly originated in the 1996 movie, "Kingpin," where sugar was placed in a victims gas tank.

Potential Damage

If the tank was filled up with sand to the brim, it could damage the engine. Snopes.com notes that most cars contain a "sock" at the end of the tanks pickup tube that prevents anything that is not liquid from entering. The cars fuel filter should collect any remaining sand from entering the engine.

Solution

A complete flush of the tank and a change of the fuel filter should fix the problem. This kind of repair could range anywhere from $450 to $500.

Prevention

A locking gas cap might be a good investment. Speedconcepts.net offers several varieties for different vehicles in the $30 to $40 range.

The Ford F series is a group of full-size pickups manufactured by Ford Motor Company. The model number indicates the nominal carrying capacity of the vehicle, such that an F350 is a 3/4-ton pickup truck. A 2005 F350 typically has a 6.0-liter turbo diesel engine with fuel injection. The fuel injectors deliver a precise ratio of fuel and air to the engine in a specific sequence. The replacement of the fuel injectors in an F350 will also require you to remove additional components.

Instructions

1

Remove the valve cover for the fuel injectors with a socket wrench and detach the electrical connector for the fuel injector. Disconnect the mounting bolts for the crankcase-to-head tube assembly and remove the assembly. Remove the mounting bolts for the oil rail and disconnect the oil rail.

2

Push the electrical connector for the fuel injector out of the rocker arm carrier with a small pry tool. Plug the holes for the oil drain that are next to the each glow plug with clean shop towels. Remove the mounting bolt for the fuel injector with a socket wrench and release the hold down clamp for the fuel injector. Disconnect the fuel injector and unplug the oil drain holes.

3

Install new O-rings and washers onto the new fuel injector and apply a liberal coat of clean engine oil to the fuel injector. Install the fuel injector and attach the hold-down clamp for the fuel injector. Torque the mounting bolt for the fuel injector to 24 foot-pounds with a torque wrench.

4

Place the electrical connector for the fuel injector into the rocker arm carrier with the pry tool. Lubricate the O-rings on the top of the fuel injector with clean engine oil.

5

Place the oil rail into position onto the fuel injectors and press down on the oil rail to secure it in place. Torque the mounting bolts for the oil rail to 10 foot-pounds with a torque wrench.

6

Attach the crankcase-to-head tube assembly to the engine and torque the mounting bolts to 60 foot-pounds with a torque wrench. Connect the electrical connector for the fuel injector and install the valve covers with a socket wrench.

There are few things more uncomfortable than getting into your Blazer on a cold winter morning and realizing that you have no heat. Because you have to remove the dashboard to replace the heater core, it is often a costly repair. If you have time and patience, you can replace the heater core in your Chevy Blazer in an afternoon.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the negative terminal of the battery prior to starting any work. You need to do this before performing any repairs on your Blazer to reduce the risk of shock or electrical shorts while you work.

2

Locate the heater core on the engine compartment side of the firewall. Disconnect the inlet and outlet heater hoses from the heater core and plug the open end of the hoses to prevent debris from entering the hoses while you are working.

3

Remove the lower dashboard panels from both the left and right sides by turning the retaining screws counterclockwise to remove them and then depress the clips to release the panels.

4

Locate the pivot bracket under the dashboard at both ends of the dash. Turn the bolts on the pivot bracket counterclockwise to remove them from the dash assembly. Turn the Torx screws on the pivot brackets counterclockwise to remove them from the bracket.

5

Lower the steering column from the dashboard by turning the four nuts counterclockwise to remove them from the firewall bracing.

6

Find the steel rod brace located just to the right of center at the bottom of the dashboard. Turn the bolt at the end of this brace counterclockwise using the appropriate socket to remove it from the dashboard.

7

Use a flat screwdriver to pry the speaker grilles and the defrost outlet out of the dashboard. This will expose a series of bolts that are hidden behind the grilles. Turn each of these bolts counterclockwise to remove them from the dash.

8

Hold the dashboard and allow it to tilt towards the passenger compartment of the vehicle. Disconnect the main electrical plug and the radio antenna.

9

Remove the steel rod brace from the heater core. Once this brace has been removed, use the Phillips screwdriver to remove the six screws that secure the heater core cover to the housing.

10

Remove the screws at the top and bottom of the straps attaching the heater core to the passenger compartment side of the firewall counterclockwise to remove the support straps.

11

Remove the screw from the center of the strap covering the tubes leading to the engine compartment. This is located at the top-left of the heater core. Once this screw is removed, you will be able to pull the faulty heater core from the firewall and install the new one.

12

Reverse all steps to install the new heater core.

Holley is one of the leading manufacturers of aftermarket performance carburetors in the United States. Holley carburetors come in a variety of different designs and functions, and you can purchase upgrades to your existing carburetor to make it work more efficiently in your vehicle. You will need to know the model number, otherwise known as the list number, of your Holley carb to order new parts for it from Holley and other aftermarket parts manufacturers. Holley uses the list number to identify their carburetors.

Instructions

1

Look at the right side of your carburetors choke air horn. You should see two numbers there, the top one is your List number and the bottom one is the date code location. The list number will begin with an R and consist of 6 to 8 digits. This is the number you need.

2

Look for the list number on the top of the main body casting if your carburetor does not feature a choke air horn. If your list number is on the main body casting, your carburetor is probably a model 4500.

3

Look up the list number on Holleys carburetor parts list. (See Resources.) You will find the model number in the column next to the list number.

The resonator is part of the exhaust system on your Impala. It works along with the muffler to reduce engine noise while producing a mellow tone from the exhaust. The resonator is located just behind the catalytic converter and is part of the muffler, tailpipe and exhaust pipe assembly. Replacing the resonator is done as part of the assembly and requires that you remove the entire exhaust from behind the catalytic converter to the tailpipe.

Instructions

1

Raise your Impala off the ground with a jack and support it with jack stands. Make sure to get it high enough to comfortably work under the car.

2

Locate and remove the two flange mounting bolts just behind the catalytic converter using a wrench or socket and ratchet. Let the pipe droop and move forward to find the rubber hangers that support the rest of the exhaust.

3

Remove the exhaust pipe from the rubber hanger just behind the resonator by pulling the rubber hanger straight off the pin on the exhaust pipe. The rubber hanger may take a little work to get free, but it will slide off without tools.

4

Locate the hanger just in front of the muffler and remove it from the exhaust pipe in the same manner as the first one. Move to the rear and remove the final exhaust hanger behind the muffler. Remove the exhaust pipe from under the car and discard.

5

Position the new exhaust pipe below the hangers on the ground. Working from the rear of the car, raise the exhaust pipe up and slide the hanger rod on the pipe into the rubber hangers. Work forward until all three hangers are engaged.

6

Position the mounting flange on the new pipe so that it abuts the flange on the pipe just behind the catalytic converter. Install the flange gasket and two mounting bolts and tighten them with a wrench or socket and ratchet.

7

Support the car with the jack and remove the jack stands. Lower the car to the ground carefully with the jack.

The muffler on the 1998 Dodge 3500 Diesel is the main component that prevents the diesel engine running too loud. The exhaust pipe that is attached to the exhaust manifold on the front of the engine travels under the truck and into the muffler. As the sound of the engine travels through the muffler, the baffles inside of the muffler cause the sound to exit in a quieter manner. Over time, the excessive heat that travels through the muffler, will cause the inside of the muffler to rust and not perform properly.

Instructions

1

Park your 1998 Dodge 3500 Diesel on a flat surface and engage the parking brake. Wait one to two hours for the muffler and the exhaust system to cool down.

2

Slide under the rear of the truck and locate the front of the muffler. The exhaust pipe that travels from the engine is mounted to the front muffler port by a metal clamp with two mounting bolts.

3

Saturate the two mounting bolts completely with the rust inhibitor spray or the penetrating oil. Position a socket and a breaker bar onto one of the mounting bolts. Slowly turn the bolt counterclockwise to see how tight the bolt is fastened. If the bolt is still tight, spray more of the rust inhibitor or the penetrating oil on the mounting bolts and repeat the process with the breaker bar and socket until the bolt is loose. Follow the same step with the other mounting bolt. Once the bolts are loose, use a ratchet to finish unscrewing the bolts.

4

Finish loosening and removing the two mounting bolts from the clamp with a ratchet and a socket. Pull the mounting bolts out of the clamp and knock the clamp off of the muffler port with a hammer.

5

Slide the end of a flathead screwdriver into the end of the muffler. Pry the end of the muffler port upward off the exhaust pipe. Make sure the entire front muffler port is pried up off of the exhaust pipe. Try and pull the muffler loose from the exhaust pipe. If the muffler is still stuck, use the hammer to tap the front of the muffler loose from the exhaust pipe.

6

Pull the muffler off the rubber hanger that holds the muffler in place. Slide the muffler out from under the truck. Position the new muffler under the truck and into the rubber hanger.

7

Slide the front port of the muffler over the exhaust pipe. Reconnect the clamp over the exhaust clamp and the muffler with the two mounting bolts. Tighten the bolts down tight with the ratchet and socket. Finish torquing the mounting bolts with the breaker bar and a socket.

Although new to some, the Shimmy Shock has been around for quite some time. Invented by T.W. Koerner and patented in 1933 it made a substantial difference in the comfort and handling of a vehicle. The current design of the Shimmy Shock has changed considerably with improved technology.

The Problem

Cars built before the 1930s were a wonder of invention and a convenience but not without their challenges. One of the problems drivers experienced was a direct translation of the bumps in the road to the driver through the steering wheel. This vibration was fatiguing to the driver as well as hard on the cars steering system.

The Solution

T.W. Koerners invented the Shimmy Shock to eradicate or lessen the shock transmitted to the steering from the ground wheels. The original Shimmy Shock was designed as a rubber cushion inserted into a hub in the rock arm that connected to the rock shaft in the steering linkage. It was secured by a circular flange (large washer) above it and a nut bolting onto the rock shaft that extended through the rocker arm. This required a significant change in the design of the rock arm.

The Solution Today

With this same goal in mind of decreasing vibrations that travel thought the steering system to the driver consequently increasing control, improving safety and easing driver fatigue, todays technology has designed shock absorber called a steering stabilizer, steering damper or sprint damper. It is a hydraulic device mounted to the steering linkage horizontally across the front of the vehicle. When the shock or stabilizer is worn or damaged you experience vibration while steering the vehicle, resulting in greater tire wear.

When performing repairs on a 2001 Jeep Wrangler, it is imperative that the correct torque is applied when installing certain bolts. The manufacturer calculates torque specs for the Wrangler based on a combination of bolt strength and the component it is holding. Torque values are verified by the use of a torque wrench that alerts the user of the proper torque through an audible signal, typically a clicking noise.

Lug Nuts

Lug nuts are very commonly just tightened until the nut no longer turns. Most inexperienced mechanics believe that the tighter the lug nut the better, but this is far from the truth. Over-tightening a lug nut stretches the threads of the wheel stud and can lead to breakage once it is heated from driving. This breakage can lead to the other wheel studs breaking due to excessive weight; the resulting domino effect can cause the wheel to fall off. The proper lug nut torque on the 2001 Jeep Wrangler is 110 foot-pounds.

Brakes

When performing brake repairs, each bolt has its own, equally important, torque specification. There are two sets of bolts on the brake system that have specific torque values: caliper bolts and brake hose bolts. The brake caliper bolts require a torque of 18 foot-pounds. The brake hose bolts have a rating of 23 foot-pounds.

Cylinder Head

The cylinder head on the Wranglers engine has a seal that must be torqued to the proper specs in order to seal correctly. The 2.5 liter 4-cylinder engine requires head bolts numbers 1 through 6 and 8 through 10 to have a final torque value of 110 foot-pounds, and bolt number 7 to have 100 foot-pounds of torque (see Resources for bolt numbering). The 4.0 liter engine requires bolt numbers 1 through 10 and 12 through 14 to have a final torque value of 110 foot-pounds and bolt number 11 to have a final value of 100 foot-pounds.

Exhaust Manifold

The exhaust manifold uses a compression-style gasket that requires proper torque to maintain a good seal. Bolt number 1 requires 30 foot-pounds and 2 through 7 require 23 foot-pounds (see Resources for bolt numbering). These values apply to both the 2.5 and 4.0 liter engines.

Oil Pan

The oil pan has two different fasteners, each having their own torque values: 1/4-inch bolts and 5/16-inch bolts. The 1/4-inch bolts require 85 inch-pounds of torque and the 5/16-inch bolts require 11 foot-pounds. These values apply for both the 2.5 and 4.0 liter engines.

Timing Chain Cover

The timing chain cover must be removed when performing timing chain maintenance. This cover has a seal and requires proper torque to obtain a good seal and prevent leaks. The bolts around the timing chain cover require 60 inch-pounds of torque on the 1/4-inch bolts and 192 inch-pounds on the 5/16-inch bolts.

Many modern engines no longer use carburetors. Instead, they use electronic fuel-injection systems, which forcibly spray fuel into air rather than just letting air and fuel mix. Carburetors still run in older vehicles, however, and in other engines such as chain saws or lawn mowers. In all applications, the carburetors size depends on the engines size. An engine needs a larger carburetor if it displaces more air or if its crankshaft rotates with a greater speed.

Instructions

1

Multiply the engine displacement, in cubic inches, by the engines maximum speed, in revolutions per minute (RPM). If your engine displaces 300 cubic inches with each stroke and works at up to 3,200 RPM: 300 x 3,200 = 960,000.

2

Divide your answer by 3,456. 960,000 / 3,456 = 277.78.

3

Divide your answer by the engines efficiency, which is typically close to 85 percent. 277.78 / 0.85 = 326.8. This is your required carburetor size in cubic feet per minute.

For an automobile owner to experience a smooth ride while traveling down a freeway or local dirt road, it is essential that the automobile is equipped with a stable suspension. But when the cars suspension jumps out of alignment, the suspension needs to be re-aligned by using specific types of suspension alignment tools like an electronic camber gauge. This tool checks exact areas where a cars suspension needs to be repaired.

Digital Coil Spring Tester

To check if an automobiles springs are working correctly so that the cars suspension alignment can be properly repaired, a car technician will use a digital coil spring tester. This device is constructed out of hard metal and contains a six-inch test spring that the mechanic positions underneath a cars chassis to see if the cars suspension has fallen too far down to be repaired or if the suspensions spring coils need to be replaced.

Spring Platform Wrench

Constructed out of a hard steel and equipped with an easy to grip metal handle, the spring platform wrench is a suspension alignment tool that is used to fit over spring platform nuts up to 3-1/4 inches in diameter. When a cars suspension is out of alignment, the spring platform wrench is used to tighten up all spring platform nuts after significant alignment adjustments have been made to the suspension.

Digital Caster/Camber Gauge with Magnetic Adapter

To ensure that specific sections of a cars suspension is re-aligned so that the car can drive smoothly, a digital caster/camber gauge with magnetic adapter tool is used. This piece of equipment contains a backlit LCD readout that shows the mechanic exact angles up to 20 degrees in 0.1 increments so that the mechanic can see where the suspension needs to be re-aligned. A 9-volt battery powers up this unit so that the car technician can place the tool underneath the cars chassis to inspect the suspension.

3/8-inch Drive Spring Platform Adjuster

When an automobiles suspension needs a lot of small adjustments to be properly re-aligned, the 3/8-inch drive spring platform adjuster can be used. This small metal tool is equipped with a 3/8-inch square socket that fits snugly over almost any cars spring platform nuts and bolts so that adjustments can be made. The tool also is designed with an easy grip handle, which allows the mechanic to adjust nuts and bolts with less stress.

Oil filters have come a long way over the years. Engines were originally designed without an oil filter, but filters were needed when pressure lubrication was developed for the engine. On its surface, the design of an oil filter looks simple, but the development of manmade materials such as glass and synthetic fiber have made oil filter designs more efficient. The design of the oil filter is determined by the type of engine, the size of the engine and the automobile manufacturer.

Mechanical Oil Filter Design

The mechanical oil filter uses fiber material that is pleated in design. This design traps the contaminants in the oil, preventing the particles from continuing to move into the engine. Over a period of time, the buildup of contaminants causes the oil to stop flowing into the engine so the movable parts can be lubricated. Before this buildup of dirt particles stops the flow of oil into the engine, the oil filter needs to be replaced.

Magnetic Oil Filter Design

The magnetic oil filter design uses small electromagnets to catch the particles as the oil flows through the oil filter. The best part of this type of design is that the oil filter does not have to be replaced. The oil filter does have to be removed periodically and cleaned. The worst part of this design is that it allows dirt to get through the filter and travel with the oil into the engine.

Centrifugal Oil Filter Design

The centrifugal oil filter design spins as the oil flows through the filter inducing centrifugal force and containing the contaminants. As the oil flows through the spinning oil filter the dirt or iron particles are trapped in the walls of the filter preventing them from flowing with the oil. This is a two-part oil filter, which has a housing chamber and a fiber material inserted into the housing that does all the spinning. The fiber material used in the oil filter needs to be replaced as contaminants build up, which can cause the filter to quite spinning and clog the flow of oil. The housing chamber does not need to be replaced.

Removing the alternator from the engine of your Jeep will allow you to have the unit tested if you are experience changing-system problems. If you are working on other components on the front of the engine, the alternator may need removing for access to other parts. Whatever the reason for removing it, you can take the alternator off the bracket and out of the engine compartment in about 20 to 30 minutes with basic hands tools.

Instructions

1

Open the hood of your Jeep and locate the negative battery cable end on the negative battery terminal. Remove the retaining bolt from the battery cable end with a wrench, then remove the cable from the battery.

2

Locate the serpentine belt tensioner on the front of the engine and place a socket and breaker bar on the axis bolt, the bolt in the center of the idler pulley, then rotate the tensioner counterclockwise. Remove the belt from the alternator pulley, then rotate the tensioner back to the home position and remove the breaker bar.

3

Locate the electrical connector on the top of the alternator, depress the locking tab and pull it out of the connector on the alternator body. Lay the connector aside for now. Locate the second connector on the rear of the alternator. Remove the retaining nut from the terminal with a socket and ratchet, then remove the wire from the terminal.

4

Remove the upper mounting bolt from the alternator with a socket and ratchet. Set the bolt aside for reuse later.

5

Locate and remove the lower mounting bolt from the alternator with a socket and ratchet, then lift the alternator off the mounting bracket and out of the engine compartment.

The Ford F-series of full-size pickup trucks is arguably the best-known car series ever produced. According to TruckTrend.com, the Ford F-series has been the best-selling pickup truck in the United States for more than 30 years. The 1994 Ford F-150 certainly doesnt disappoint. The pickup features a rugged chassis powered by large 4.9-liter six-cylinder engine.

Engine and Transmission

Pickups typically come with powerful engines, and the engine of the 1994 Ford F-150 is no exception. The 4.9 liter V6, 145-horsepower engine was standard, though variants with a 5.0-liter V8, 195 hp and

5.8-liter V8, 210 hp were also available. The 145 hp engine had a maximum torque of 265 foot/pounds at 2,000 rpm, which allowed the pickup to tow up to 7,500 pounds of weight. The vehicle came with a standard five-speed manual or an optional four speed automatic transmission.

Physical Measurements and Capacities

The pickup was rather large. The 1994 Ford F-150 was 213.3 inches long, 79 inches wide and 70.8 inches tall. The wheelbase measured 133 inches. The cabin of the pickup had two doors and could provide seats for up to three people. The 1994 Ford F-150 weighed 5,450 pounds.

Fuel

Fuel economy clearly wasnt a priority for the engineers of the 1994 Ford F-150. The truck made a meager 13 mpg in the city and 17 mpg on the highway. However, because the vehicle was equipped with a rather large 19 gallon fuel tank, it had a much more respectable full tank range of 247 miles in the city and 323 miles on the highway.

Oldsmobile manufactured an eight-cylinder engine with a displacement of 5.7 liters from 1978 to 1985. This engine has multi-port fuel injection, which requires an injection pump. This same 5.7-liter diesel engine appears in a variety of vehicles from General Motors during this period, such as the Chevrolet Caprice from 1980 to 1984. The procedure for removing the injection pump is the same for all full-size Chevrolet cars with diesel engines made from 1979 to 1989.

Instructions

1

Remove the negative battery cable with a socket wrench, so that you do not inadvertently start the engine. Disconnect the air cleaner assembly from the valve covers, including the air filter. Detach the air crossover, and cover the intake manifold with screen cover No. J-26996-1.

2

Disconnect the return spring for the throttle rod, and detach the throttle rod from the intake manifold with a socket wrench. Remove the bell crank from the intake manifold. Detach the transmission and throttle cables from the brackets of the intake manifold.

3

Remove the fuel lines from the fuel filter, and disconnect the fuel filter with a socket wrench. Detach the fuel send line from the fuel injection pump. Disconnect the rear brace for the air compressor.

4

Detach the fuel return line from the fuel injection pump. Release the clamps from the fuel return line, and disconnect the fuel return lines from the fuel injector nozzles with a pair of box-end wrenches.

5

Disconnect the three retaining nuts for the fuel injection pump with injector pump wrench No. J-26987, and remove the fuel injection pump from the vehicle. Plug the fuel lines and nozzles with clean cloth to keep debris out of them.

50cc mopeds have a restriction placed on how fast they can drive, which helps keep smaller moped from travelling too fast for its size. However, it is possible to remove the restriction to gain more speed. Though this process varies slightly from model to model, the type of restriction also varies from a muffler restriction, a carburetor restriction or a transmission restriction. The general process is the same for each restriction, but part placement will vary depending on your moped model.

Instructions

Muffler Restriction

1

Look down your muffler pipe to determine whether it is restricted. A restricted muffler pipe will be gradually become more narrower along its length.

2

Unscrew the screws holding the head pipe of your muffler. Place this restricted pipe to the side.

3

Screw the unrestricted muffler pipe where your restricted pipe used to be. Tighten the screws in evenly, being careful not to screw one in too tightly before the others are finished.

4

Unscrew the air filter and remove it from your engine. Place your new air filter in place and screw it down.

5

Test your engine to see how well it runs. If your muffler is too loud or the engine runs awkwardly, you may need to double-check your work.

Carburetor Restriction

6

Find your carburetor and unscrew all the screws holding it in place. Carefully remove any belts that may be attached to the carburetor using the correct size wrench. The size will vary depending on your model. Take the carburetor out of your engine.

7

Open the carburetor and inspect the main jet. Remove the main jet by unscrewing it from its holding. Place a smaller jet inside of the carburetor.

8

Screw the carburetor back into place. Replace all belts using your wrench. Alternately, you can avoid replacing the jet by simply replacing your restricted carburetor with a larger, custom carburetor bought at a local moped shop.

9

Ride your moped to make sure the engine is running properly.

Transmission Restriction

10

Find your transmission and remove the cover. Remove the nut holding the cover to the variator assembly.

11

Pull your variator assembly off of your transmission.

12

Remove the screws holding the variator assembly in place and carefully pull the two halves of it apart. Dont remove any parts from the assembly or let any of them move.

13

Locate the pulley inside of the variator assembly. Find the washer in the pulley and remove it.

14

Screw the variator back together and place it back in your transmission. Screw the transmission cover back into place.

15

Turn on your engine and ride your moped to make sure it is running smoothly.

The Cummins 5.9-liter engine has six cylinders and uses diesel fuel. Its most common use is in agricultural machinery and full-size Dodge pickup trucks made from 1989 through 1998. The Cummins 5.9-liter engine uses direct fuel injection to deliver fuel to the combustion chamber with a pressure of at least 3,550 pounds per square inch, or PSI. The procedure for removing the fuel injectors is generally the same for all Dodge trucks with the 5.9-liter Cummins engine.

Instructions

1

Remove the cable from the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench. This prevents the engine from starting during the fuel injector removal.

2

Disconnect the throttle linkage and its bracket with a socket wrench, if necessary, to access the fuel injectors. The fuel injectors for the 5.9-liter engine are on the left side of the cylinder head.

3

Detach the fuel lines from the fuel injectors. Each of the six fuel injectors has its own high-pressure fuel line. Disconnect the mounting bolts for the fuel drain manifold with a socket wrench and remove the manifold from the engine.

4

Unscrew the fuel injectors with a deep well socket and remove them from the injector bores. Discard the copper washer from the diesel injector and use a new washer when you install the fuel injector.

5

Clean the injector bore and surrounding area with a wire brush to remove any combustion deposits.

When the check engine light illuminates on your Jeep Liberty, it is the result of a problem code being sent from a sensor in the vehicle to the internal On-Board Diagnostics (OBD) computer. It means there is an electrical problem. You should have it looked at and fixed by a qualified mechanic before attempting to reset and turn off the light yourself. Once the problem is fixed, it will be very easy for you to manually reset the light and turn it off.

Instructions

1

Find the Diagnostic Link Connector, or DLC, to the right of and underneath the steering column. Plug the scanner into the port and put the key into the ignition. Turn the key to the accessory position.

2

Plug the pocket scanner into the DLC and then turn the ignition key to the accessory position. Turn on the pocket scanner.

3

Select "Erase" on the scanner to turn off the check engine light. You will know it worked when you see "Command Sent" or when the screen on the scanner is back to the main menu.

4

Turn the key to start the engine. The check engine light should now be off. If not, you will need to have the engine looked at again.

You can look up trouble codes for your Chevy truck right from your home garage, saving yourself time and money. You only need one tool to do the job: an On-Board Diagnostics (OBD) I or II code scanner. If your Chevy truck was manufactured in 1996 or later, you need to use an OBD II code scanner; if its an earlier model, use the OBD I code scanner. The On-Board Diagnostics computer monitors all the functions of the vehicle. It stores trouble codes received from sensors positioned throughout the vehicle. When it detects a code, it alerts you to the issue by illuminating a warning or service light on the vehicles instrument panel. Code scanners can be purchased from any auto parts retailer.

Instructions

1

Locate the trapezoidal-shaped Diagnostic Link Connector (DLC) port under the drivers side dashboard. This is usually just left of the steering column.

2

Plug the OBD code scanner into the DLC port.

3

Put the key into the ignition and turn it two clicks forward, taking care not to start the engine. Wait for this to power on the scanner or find the on/off button and press it.

4

Select the command "Read Codes" or something similar to this.

5

Wait for the codes to display and write them down on a piece of paper.

6

Look up the codes in the code scanners manual to get the exact diagnosis.

7

Unplug the code scanner and have your car serviced or repaired based on the trouble codes.

Depending on the climate where it is driven, your Toyotas frame may have rust damage. If caught early enough, preventative measures can slow the rusts progress and delay the need for extensive repairs. If the rust damage is significant, it can lead to failures in suspension and steering components, causing the vehicle to be unsafe. It is critical to inspect the frame carefully to determine the extent of repairs needed. This typically requires old sections of the frame to be reinforced with new pieces of metal. If the amount of rust damage is severe, the best choice may be to completely replace the section of frame, taking care to reinforce the joint. If you are not comfortable using a MIG welder, this repair is best left to a professional. But if you have the necessary skill and safety equipment for MIG welding, you can accomplish the job.

Instructions

Remove Old Rust

1

Spread the naval jelly on any rusted parts of the frame. Wait 5 to 10 minutes. Rinse with fresh water. Take care not to let the naval jelly remain on painted surfaces as it will remove the paint.

2

Assess the severity of the damage. Coat the area in rust-inhibiting paint if the rust has not gone completely through the frame metal and is not at any bolts or welded joints on the frame.

3

Check the repair regularly. This process may need to be repeated periodically to prevent the rust from returning or spreading.

Welding Reinforcements

4

Determine the appropriate repair --- welding a piece of angle bar to the existing frame metal or cutting the frame metal and replacing it completely. If the frame is compromised in many locations, replacing the entire section is likely preferable. Frame sections can be sourced from a Toyota dealership, or an auto dismantler may be able to locate a used one in good condition for less cost. Alternatively, hire a professional welder to fabricate a new frame section using the old one as a template if the vehicle sees heavy use, such as pickup truck.

5

Measure the section of frame to be reinforced and use the grinder to cut a length of angle bar. Add 3 to 4 inches on either side of the bar to overlap the frame. For example, if a 2-inch section of frame has rusted through, the reinforcement should be 8 to 12 inches long. Features of the frame may dictate variations to this, but it is better to overlap as much undamaged metal as possible.

6

Clamp the section of angle bar to the frame where it will be welded and mark any bolt holes or other features. If the reinforcement is in the area of a welded seam, it may be necessary to cut off the welded metal (such as a shackle) and reweld it to the reinforcement. Measure the location of the component carefully to ensure it goes back in the same place. It may also be necessary to trim the reinforcement to fit around features of the frame that to not need reinforcement.

7

Remove the clamps and drill the necessary holes in the reinforcement angle bar. Use the grinder to trim off any metal necessary for a good fit. Test-fit the reinforcement again to ensure the holes are placed properly and the piece fits flush against the existing metal frame. Use the wire brush wheel on the grinder to clean up the metal surface on the frame in preparation for welding.

8

Weld the reinforcement in place using the MIG welder. Reweld any other components such as suspension shackles. Paint the repaired area with rust-inhibiting paint and follow the above directions for periodically inspecting and refreshing the paint. Repeat this process for any other areas that need repair.

Crash gearboxes use straight-cut gears and are found in vintage cars, large trucks and racing cars. The speed of the engine must be matched to that of the gearbox before a gear is engaged.

Operation

When changing gears, the clutch disengages the gearbox from the engine then selects a new gear before re-engaging. With straight-cut gears, if the engine speed does not match that of the gearbox, the gears will grind together and cause potential damage to the clutch and gears themselves; thus the speeds must be matched before a gear is engaged.

Double Declutching

The clutch is used twice for every gear change. First the clutch is depressed, and neutral is selected; the engine is then revved to the appropriate speed before the clutch is depressed once more and a new gear selected. This is a complex technique that requires an experienced driver.

Advantages

Crash gearboxes produce less friction and loss of power. In racing, this is a great advantage, and with the ability to rebuild the gearbox after each race, the damage caused by incorrect gear changes is not considered a major problem. Crash gearboxes are also very robust and able to deal with much more power and torque than helical gears.

If you have ever wondered what you would have to do to remove the rear seat from your 2001 Grand Am, then the answer is, "not very much." The rear seats in a 2001 Grand Am are held in by clips and nuts that you can easily access. Whether you are modifying your car, or if you would like to do some thorough cleaning, you will be more successful if you know exactly how to remove your seats before you start your project.

Instructions

1

Remove the bottom section. Lift up the bottom cushion at the two front corners. Two clips that hold the cushion on are now accessible and can be detached. Slide the cushion forward and out.

2

Remove the top section. Remove the two nuts that are located at the bottom corners of the top portion of the seat. Pull the seat so that the tabs where the nuts were can be clear of the studs. Pull the seat up and toward the front of the car so that the upper clips will become disconnected. The top portion of the seat can now be removed.

3

Clean up any mess. There will likely be a lot of built-up dirt and messes underneath the seat cushions. Keep some cleaning supplies handy for this.

Your engine needs to be able to build and hold a great deal of compression in the combustion cylinders in order to operate properly. Additionally, compression in each of the cylinders needs to be within a small percentage range from highest to lowest. Compression can leak past one or both of the valves, which can be detected by a noticeable hissing sound in the exhaust or intake. Compression can also leak past the head gasket seals into the cooling system. This kind of leak needs to be found and fixed quickly, before it causes serious internal damage to your engine.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the spark plug wires at the plugs by gripping the plug and twisting while turning. Write the cylinder number on the plug boot to facilitate reassembly.

2

Rotate the spark plugs counterclockwise with the spark plug socket and ratchet to remove them. Use extensions and universal swivel as needed.

3

Thread the leakdown tester into the opening for the first spark plug. Remove the radiator cap by pressing down and turning it counterclockwise. Add the exhaust gas detector solution to the radiator coolant. Place the balloon or rubber glove over the radiator opening.

4

Turn the key to start and allow the engine to turn over about 10 times.

5

Check the glove or balloon to see if it appears to have filled at all. If so, you have determined there is a leak from the combustion chamber into the cooling system from number one cylinder. Write down the compression reading.

6

Repeat Steps 3, 4 and 5 until you have checked all of the cylinders in turn, checking the balloon/glove after each time you turn the engine over. Write down each of the compression readings.

7

Compare the compression readings from cylinder to cylinder. The reading should be around 150 pounds per square inch of compression, with a maximum variance of about 15 pounds per square inch from high to low readings.

8

Remove the balloon or glove from the radiator opening and inspect the coolant. Some exhaust gas leak kits will cause the coolant to change color in the presence of exhaust gasses. Others will have you look at the coolant using a special light.

A remanufactured long block is an automobile engine that was used, then removed from an old vehicle and refurbished, then sold to a customer who needs a new engine. The term "long block" refers to what components are included in the final product -- a long block includes cylinder heads and some related parts while a short block does not. If your car is in otherwise good shape, replacing a worn engine with a long block is an economical alternative to buying a new car.

Remanufacturing an Engine

A remanufactured engine starts as a used engine. A mechanic or a technician at a remanufacturing facility will inspect the engine, looking it over for cracks and other conditions that determine whether it is rebuildable or not. If so, the facility fully takes apart the entire engine and cleans and inspects all the parts. Then the parts that are reusable, such as the block, the heads and the crankshaft, are resurfaced and put back into service. The rest of the parts are replaced with new parts, and the engine is reassembled.

Types of Remanufactured Engines

Remanufactured engines come in three general configurations. The short block consists of the engine block, crank shaft, pistons, connecting rods and sometimes the camshaft. The long block is nothing more than a short block with the cylinder heads added, as well as a camshaft and rocker arms. A complete engine adds in things like an oil pump, valve covers, an oil pan and an intake system.

Things to Consider

It has become more economical to replace an entire engine assembly instead of removing the old components from your existing engine and putting them on a new short block. It also takes less labor. Additionally, it makes sense to have all new or refurbished parts by using a long block rather than putting old parts on a new engine as is required with a short block. Check with a remanufacturing facility about what its long block engines contain. Different facilities sometimes have different ideas on what a long block contains.

The MGB, a sports car manufactured by MG Cars from 1962 to 1980, has a small but loyal following. If you own a model year 1973, you have certainly spent a significant amount of money and time on repairs and upgrades to keep this classic running and in good shape. However, not all repairs need to be expensive or complicated. One small repair is so easy you can do it yourself in about 15 minutes: replacing a sun visor.

Instructions

1

Park your 1973 MGB on a level surface, turn off the engine and apply the parking brake.

2

Flip the MGB sun visor down to access the retaining screws. Remove any items placed behind or clipped or tied to the sun visor and set them aside.

3

Leave the old visor clipped into the retaining clip and unscrew the base of the visor from the roof of the MGB using a Phillips screwdriver. Then pull out the visor and dispose of it.

4

Slide the new MGB sun visor onto the clip and screw in the retaining screws to hold it in place. Finally, replace any items you store behind or attached to the sun visor.

Clutch adjustment procedures and hardware on all Harley-Davidson Big Twins and Sportsters manufactured since 1990 are identical. Once you learn to adjust the clutch on your bike you can adjust the clutch on any recent Harley. And, with some sight in at least one eye and the slightest practical intelligence you will quickly see how to adjust the clutch on any Harley made since the Second World War. There are only two clutch adjustment specifications for your Custom 1200 Sportster. The first is to adjust the cable lever to 1/8 inch free play. The second is to back out the clutch adjusting screw one half to one full turn. This is how you get there.

Clutch Cable Adjuster Nut

Support your Sportster on a motorcycle jack or secure the front wheel in a motorcycle chock or motorcycle clamp so the bike stands fully upright. Run your hand down the cable that attaches to the clutch housing until your fingers find a bellows-shaped, black, rubber boot. Pull this black boot up to expose a short nut called the cable adjuster nut and a long nut called the cable adjuster lock nut. Using two hands, slide an open-end wrench on both nuts and turn the nuts in opposite directions.

Loosen Clutch Cable

Remove the wrenches when the nuts are loose. Turn the small, clutch cable adjuster nut with your fingers until the nut is at the top of the threads and the clutch cable is completely slack. Pull the black sleeve on the top of the clutch cable near the clutch lever away from the clutch housing. Spray aerosol cable lubricant into the sleeve so it will drip down the length of the clutch cable.

Remove Derby Cover

Draw two lines across the derby cover that extend onto the primary cover, with a grease pencil or similar marker, so you will be able to return the derby cover to exactly the same position later. Remove the six Allen-head screws that hold the derby cover in the primary cover with an Allen socket and a socket wrench. Remove the cover. Remove the gasket and throw it away.

Adjust The Clutch

Separate the clutch plates by tightening the clutch adjusting screw, in the exact center of the clutch, with an Allen wrench. Back out the clutch adjusting screw at least four turns. Tighten the clutch adjusting screw slowly until it just bottoms out. Back out the clutch adjustment screw one-half to one full turn.

Replace Derby Cover

Put a new derby cover gasket on the inside of the derby cover so the red Harley logo on the gasket will face the clutch. Align the holes in the gasket and the cover. Replace the derby cover to the exact position it was in when you removed it, using the grease pencil marks as your guide. Replace and tighten all six derby cover screws with an Allen socket and a socket wrench.

Adjust Clutch Cable

Re-tighten the clutch cable adjusting nut until the clutch cable re-seats in the housing and there is no free play in the clutch lever at all. Loosen the clutch cable adjuster nut 1/2 turn at a time until there is 1/8 inch free play in the clutch lever before you feel tension. Immobilize the clutch cable adjuster nut with an open-end wrench and simultaneously tighten the cable adjuster lock nut with a second open-end wrench until the two nuts fit snugly together. Replace the clutch cable adjuster boot.

There are many reasons you might need to jack the axle ends of your Chevy K5 off the ground. Whether you are making repairs, rotating tires, or just trying to get a better look at the underside of the vehicle, jacking it up is a pretty simple task. The job can be completed in less than 30 minutes. Jacks and jack stands can be purchased at most automotive repair and supply shops.

Instructions

1

Locate the marked jack points beneath your K5. They can be found on the frame in back of the tires, facing the center of the SUV.

2

Go to the front drivers side and position the floor jack below the jack point. Raise the SUV with the jack.

3

Slide a jack stand behind the jack.

4

Cover the top of the jack stand with a rag.

5

Lower your K5 onto the stand with the jack.

6

Repeat Steps 2 through 5 to get the three remaining sides onto the jack stands.

A flex plate connects to the crankshaft of an engine to the clutch of a manual transmission. For the flex plate to function correctly, it must be the correct diameter and match the bolt pattern on the crankshaft. Taking both measurements accurately will ensure the flex plate functions as designed without damaging the clutch, transmission or crankshaft.

Instructions

1

Lay the flex plate flat on a work table.

2

Hook the end of a tape measure on the outside edge of the flex plate. Pull the tape measure across the face of the plate. Read the dimension where the point of a flex plate tooth intersects the tape measure. Write down the diameter of the plate.

3

Hold the end of the tape measure on the center of a mounting hole located off the center of the flex plate. Pull the tape measure over a second center mounting hole. Read the number sitting in the center of the mounting hole. Write down the center hole measurement.

Various parts of the car have electrical needs that are provided by the cars battery, which includes the headlights, ignition coils, engine cooling system, the radio and the air conditioner. Like with all electronic devices, the alternator can be tested using specialized equipment known as an alternator tester. These alternator testers can determine what is wrong with a particular alternator so that the problems can be fixed. Testers are especially important when initially designing the alternator so that engineers can ensure that the alternator will work in all operating conditions.

Bench Testers

Alternator bench testers must simulate the actual operating conditions of the load testers. Speed control is handled electronically when simulating the operating conditions, according to Crumbliss, a company specializing in alternator testers. Alternator testers come in many varieties. What distinguishes them is their horsepower, which ranges from five to 20; whether or not they are single or three-phase; if they have electronic variable speed; their voltage, which ranges from 12 to 32; their amperage, which ranges from 65 to 450; and their wattage, which ranges from 2100 to 7200. Horsepower is a measurement of the testers power, voltage is the amount of electrical current generated by the alternator tester, and wattage is the electrical power of the tester.

Heavy Duty Testers

There is also the heavy duty load tester that tests 12- and 24-volt automotive and diesel starters. Other heavy duty power supply testers are available that test alternating and direct currents, according to Crumbliss. These testers deliver 500 amps of constant voltage, adequate for testing powerful alternators.

Performance and Endurance Testers

Alternator performance and endurance testers have PC-based PID controllers, which are generic feedback mechanisms. The alternator speed can be adjusted electronically. They have loading in constant resistance, current and voltage modes, according to Samin Afzar company, a company that specializes in test machines for cars. They have a temperature chamber that subjects the alternator to a specific temperature that is adjustable so that certain conditions can be simulated. They have an instant 500 voltage in loading machines.

Wires Used With Testers

Wires must be connected to the coils inside the alternator so that there is an easy connection between the testing equipment and the circuits. According to All About Circuits, a company specializing in electrical wiring, the alternator often has to be taken apart so that the wires can be connected to terminals, called carbon brushes, found within the alternator. The wires are soldered to the terminals then run through the vent holes on the alternator. The wires must be run in a way that will not cause the wires to be caught by the spinning rotor.

Vehicle transmissions allow a car to move through gears, resulting in a progression of speed. The complexity of the transmission unit makes it an expensive repair if any mechanical issues, such as bad seals, occur.

Function

Transmission seals are the gaskets that seal the transmission pan with the rest of the transmission body. If the gasket fails, transmission fluid can be released, causing the fluid level within the transmission to fall, possibly causing costly damage.

Causes

Transmission seals can blow, or fail, for a variety of reasons. If a gasket has aged, and has not been serviced consistently, it can crack or break completely in certain areas, allowing fluid to escape. To worsen the situation of a worn gasket, the torque converters pressure on the transmission fluid can blow out the seals as well, especially if the torque converter is malfunctioning.

Prevention/Solution

The best way to keep the transmission, and its seals, in good working order is to have consistent transmission flushes, based on the manufacturers recommendations. In addition, the seals should be inspected periodically to catch any deformities in the seal body.

Struts are combination devices that perform three important tasks: they suspend the car with a spring, control body roll with shock absorbers and act as the upper suspension control arm. Replacement can be a do-it-yourself procedure provided you have some basic mechanical skills.

Tools

Struts generally come out with a few basic hand tools: sockets, ratchets, wrenches and pliers among them. Youll also need a tire lug wrench and a floor jack. The ball-joint removal tool (sometimes, a "pickle fork") is the only remotely specialized tool you might need to replace the strut, but most applications dont require one.

Basic Procedure

First youll need to lift the applicable corner of the car off of the ground until the wheel dangles in the air. Remove the wheel, then slip the jack under the lower control arm or brake rotor to help lift the arm back into place. Remove the bolt(s) securing the strut to the steering pivot, then remove the three or four bolts under the hood that hold the top of the strut to the cars chassis.

Complications

Youll probably need to remove the brake line from the caliper and any clips that secure it to the strut, which will necessitate a brake-bleeding job afterward. You may also need to remove the brake rotor, brake caliper, steering end links and/or anti-roll bar end-links.

Oil viscosity represents a measurement of how well oil flows. When oil flows smoothly, its viscosity is said to be high. When it clumps up or moves slowly, the opposite is true. The temperature of an engine and that of the outside environment have a significant effect on the viscosity level of engine oil. The minerals present in the oil and its refinement level determine its viscosity, as well -- up to certain prescribed temperature limits.

Performance Range

Engine oil flows best -- it has optimal viscosity -- within temperature ranges of zero and 200 degrees Fahrenheit. For this reason, oil brand products are rated with regards to how well they perform within these temperature limits. Beyond these parameters, many oils begin to either clump up in the cold or burn up from heat. The effect at either end of the temperature spectrum is a loss of lubrication in the engine. This, in turn, creates friction and heat, which ultimately damage and ruin exposed engine parts.

Extreme Cold Effects

Depending on the engine oils formulation, each product has a "pour" point: This limitation is the lowest temperature point at which the oil will still flow before it starts to coagulate into a gel. Normal engine oil may not do well much beyond freezing (32 degrees Fahrenheit). However, specially formulated oils can retain viscosity at temperatures as low as -5 degrees Fahrenheit, during prolonged use.

Extreme Heat Effects

When engine oil reaches the upper limits of its heat toleration, it may seem extremely viscous, but in reality the oil minerals are beginning to break down. This chemical deconstruction ultimately results in a boiling or burning up of the oil. The liquid will carbonize and turn into a tar-like substance as it breaks down completely. Again, the engine loses lubricant in the process, and too much oil loss will expose parts to friction, heat, and ultimately damage.

Types of Oil and Environment

When driving in a cold environment, more viscous oil will benefit the engine, as the liquid can still flow smoothly through cold lubrication systems. Particularly regarding the starting of the engine, a thin-flowing oil can protect cold parts that would otherwise grind badly in cold temperatures. Lower viscosity oils protect parts under hotter temperatures by still retaining chemical integrity at heat points where thinner oils would just burn up. Parts continue to move freely instead of getting gunked-up with tar and carbon flakes. Many race car teams use specially-formulated oils with very thick consistency to protect performance engines running at very high speeds and transmission demands.

Dirty or rusty chrome can be unsightly and down right unsanitary. Theres a common misconception that the best way to clean this shiny steel product is with a wire brush or steel wool pad. However, cleaning chrome with these abrasive tools can leave the chrome dull and scratched. The best way to get chrome looking like new again is with something you likely already have in a drawer or cupboard: simple aluminium foil.

Instructions

1

Cut the foil into more manageable pieces. A good size for most projects is about 3 by 3 inches. Size is only important for your ease, so work with whatever size you feel most comfortable.

2

Clean the chrome surface with a wet towel to remove any dust or dirt. Fill the bucket with water.

3

Dip one piece of foil into the water and apply smoothly over the chrome. Rub the foil gently back and forth. There is no need to scrub, as the foil and water you have added creates a chemical reaction. It is this reaction that cleans the chrome so well.

4

Continue rubbing until the foil slides easily and smoothly over the surface you have cleaned. A brownish paste should have built up while you were cleaning. This is the byproduct of the aluminiums reaction with the steel in the chrome.

5

Use a clean rag towel wipe off the brown paste to reveal shiny, bright chrome. If you are working on a larger piece you may need many sheets to get the entire surface clean. Dip these each in water as you have with the first one, and repeat the next steps until your project looks like new again.

Exhaust hangers can vary depending on the year of the car. Make sure you purchase the right part for your year and model. To determine if your exhaust hangers need to be replaced, look to see if there are any cracks or tears in the rubber. Cracks and tears will allow the bracket attached to the muffler and muffler pipe to wobble back and forth. This can create additional noise from metal hitting metal and weaken your exhaust system due to excessive movement.

Instructions

1

Place a car jack under the designated area where the manufacturer recommends lifting the car. You can find this in the owners manual generally located in the glove box. Jack the car to a level you feel comfortable with to be able to move around under the car.

2

Place a jack stand under the frame of the car. Lower the jack so the car frame rests completely on the jack stand. If you need more than one jack stand, repeat Steps 1 and 2. Note: It is recommended to leave the jack in an area that will support the car (with little pressure on it) in case a jack stand gives way. By doing this, you will have extra protection keeping the car from crushing you.

3

Place your choice of ground cover under the car so you are not working on a dirty floor.

4

Position the exhaust hanger bolt hole to match the position of the bolt hole located on the frame of the car. Screw in the bolt and tighten until secure with either the correct size wrench or socket. Note: Depending on the year of the car, the exhaust hanger could have one or two bolts.

5

Slide the support bracket attached to the muffler or muffler pipe into the exhaust hanger. Make sure the support bracket is secure in the exhaust hanger. Repeat this step for all exhaust hangers.

6

Remove the ground cover. Repeat Step 1 by raising the car with the jack and then remove the jack stand. Lower the jack and remove so the car is now resting on the ground.

Designed by Jan Wilsgaard, the Volvo 850 is a compact executive car available in both sedan and station wagon body styles. With features not previously offered in a Volvo, it was the first front-wheel drive Volvo exported to North America. One of several different engines can be found inside any given Volvo 850.

B 5204 S Engine

Used in Volvo 850s every year from 1992 to 1994, the B 5204 S engine is a 5-cylinder 2.0-liter engine with four valves per cylinder. The compression ratio is 10.3 to 1 and its output is 143 horsepower at 6500 rpm. Its max torque is 17.9 kpm at 3800 rpm.

B 5254 Engine

The B 5254 S engine has a compression ratio of 10.5 to 1. The output of the non-turbo version is 170 horsepower at 6200 rpm. It is a 5-cylinder, 2.5-liter engine with a max torque of 22.4 kpm at 3300 rpm. A low-pressure turbo version of this engine was made, the B 5254 T, which had 190 horsepower.

B 5252 S Engine

Found in Volvo 850 cars produced in 1993 and 1994, the B 5252 S engine has a compression ratio of 10.0 to 1. It is a 5-cylinder, 2.5-liter engine with an output of 140 horsepower at 5400 rpm and the max torque is 21.0 kpm at 3600 rpm. This engine was used exclusively for the Canadian market.

B 5234 T Engine

This high-pressure turbo engine with increased boost can only be found in Volvo 850 cars produced in 1994. This 5-cylinder, 2.3-liter engine has a compression ratio of 8.5 to 1, with an output of 225 horsepower to 5280 rpm. Its max torque is 30.6 kpm at 2000-5280 rpm.

To access the radio or instrument cluster wiring, you will need to remove the dashboard on your 2010 Dodge 3500. Or if the dash is cracked or faded from use, you may want to replace it with a new or used one in good condition that can be found at an auto wrecking yard. The dashboard is comprised of several panels, some overlapping each other. You can remove the dash from your home garage using a couple of inexpensive and readily available tools.

Instructions

1

Set the emergency brake and shift vehicle into low gear. If you have an automatic transmission, put in park. Tilt the steering column down.

2

Unscrew the four screws on the lower and upper part of the instrument cluster using a Phillips-head screwdriver. Pry around the edge of the plastic that is above the steering column and around the radio and A/C controls using a flat-head screwdriver.

3

Pull out the plastic piece, known as a bezel, until it detaches from its clips. Unplug the electrical wiring behind it.

4

Find the knee bolster and remove the screws with a Phillips-head screwdriver. The knee bolster is a panel on the lower part of the dashboard near the drivers knees. In the event of an accident, it absorbs the forward-motion energy of the drivers body, thus lessening the force of an impact. Pry off their clips along the top with a flat-head screwdriver. Disconnect the link clip for the parking brake. The link clip is a U-shaped piece underneath the parking brake lever.

5

Open the glove box and unscrew all the screws. Pull the surrounding panel away from the glove box and unplug the electrical wires behind it.

6

Locate the passengers side of the instrument panel and pry off the end cap with a flat-head screwdriver. An end cap is a little circular plastic piece that covers the head of a screw to protect it and to make it look more aesthetically pleasing. Unscrew the screw behind it. Unscrew the final eight screws along the top and bottom of the dash and pull out the glove box and panel.

When one of the sensors on the 1998 Dodge Caravan stops working or senses incorrect information, the computer sends a code to the data link connector and turns the check engine light on to alert the driver that there is a problem. You can extract the codes with a code scanner, which is available at any auto parts store. The code scanner comes with a code sheet that tells the consumer what each code means.

Instructions

1

Repair the problem as dictated by the code scanner. If you try to erase the codes and reset the computer before the problem is fixed, the computer will send the code and turn the engine light on again.

2

Plug the code scanner into the data link connector, which is under the dash and just to the left of the steering column.

3

Press the "Erase" button on the code scanner to erase the codes and reset the computer. Remove the code scanner plug-in from the data link connector.

The job of your Volvo S80s oxygen sensor is to regulate the fuel and air ratio in your car. It also controls your gas mileage. If the oxygen sensor malfunctions, your S80 will run poorly, and its gas mileage will decline. With a few tools, most people can replace the oxygen sensor safely.

Instructions

1

Locate the oxygen sensor on your pre-catalytic converter. It is near the right front wheel well of your S80.

2

Detach the two small air intake pipes by hand from the air box and from the blowoff valves. Twist off the large air intake pipe as well from the air box and the rear turbo. This provides access to the oxygen sensor. Spray WD-40 over the existing oxygen sensor to make it easier to remove.

3

Use the 7/8-inch wrench to remove the failed sensor. Locate the stock sensor wire near the engine lift loop near your engines firewall. Connect the ends of the stock sensor wire to the new oxygen sensors wires using the crimp connectors.

4

Rub a small amount of anti-seize paste onto the new oxygen sensor threads. Do not get any paste on the sensor itself, because that could cause it to fail. The paste will make removal easier the next time.

5

Screw in the new oxygen sensor, and tighten it enough with the wrench that it cannot be loosened easily. Reattach the air pipes to the valves.

Auto repair guides dictate a common price for mechanics to protect customers from paying too much. However, each shop varies in how much they charge for labor, especially as technology improves and repairs become more complex.

Guides

Most auto repair shops use one of three guides for charges: Chiltons, AllData and Mitchell. However, these guides need to be constantly updated as new cars come out featuring different technology.

Significance

When customers pay for labor in an auto shop, they pay for the parts needed plus the hourly rate charged by the mechanic. This hourly rate helps pay the mechanics wage, any tools the shop needs and the overhead to keep the shop running.

Regional

Labor guides vary depending on where you live. If you are in a part of the country that gets a lot of snow, the sand and salt on the roads corrode your car. Working with rust is difficult for mechanics and costs more money than cars in drier, warmer climates.

You can reset the computer on your 01 Toyota Tundra right from your home driveway or garage. The Tundra, like most modern vehicles, is equipped with an On-Board Diagnostics (OBD) computer that reads trouble codes sent to it from sensors positioned throughout the vehicle. These trouble codes illuminate in the form of warning or service lights on your instrument panel. Once you have the Tundra serviced or repaired, you will need to reset the computer so that it can continue to do its work. Resetting the computer will also shut off any service and warning lights on the dash.

Instructions

1

Locate the port underneath the steering column that has the same size and shape as the OBD code scanners connective end. Plug the OBD code scanner into this port. Dont force it in, though, or you could bend the pins.

2

Put the key in the ignition and turn it to the "II" position, taking care not to start the engine. The OBD code scanner will power itself on and read the trouble codes.

3

Locate the "delete" button on the scanner and select it. Depending on the manufacturer of the scanner, it may have a different label, such as "erase codes." When you select it, it will reset the computer and shut off the lights.

4

Unplug the scanner and turn on the engine. Check the instrument panel to verify that all service and warning lights have shut off.

The oxygen sensors in your 1998 Honda Accord help regulate the fuel consumption of your car. When an oxygen sensor fails, your car begins to burn too much fuel and you gas mileage declines dramatically. The 1998 Accord contains two oxygen sensors located in the exhaust pipe on either end of the catalytic converter. It is best to replace both together to avoid having another one fail immediately after the first replacement. Buy replacement sensors from an auto parts retailer or Honda dealer.

Instructions

1

Raise your 1998 Honda Accord with a jack and secure it on a set of jack stands. Position the car high enough to work comfortably beneath it.

2

Locate the oxygen sensor you want to change. Disconnect the electrical connection at the top of the sensor. Squeeze the retaining clip and pull the wiring connector straight off the sensor.

3

Remove the oxygen sensor from the exhaust pipe using an oxygen sensor socket and ratchet. Insert the new oxygen sensor by hand to prevent cross threading the new sensor. Torque the sensor to 33 ft.-lbs. with your torque wrench.

4

Reconnect the wiring harness on the new oxygen sensor. Press the electrical connection straight onto the new sensor until it clicks.

5

Repeat the process on the other sensor if needed. Raise the car with the jack and remove the jack stands. Lower the car to the ground.

Extended warranties are available as a full bumper-to-bumper warranty (which covers all but maintenance items) or a powertrain warranty (which covers all major components of the engine and transmission), or sometimes a lesser version of bumper-to-bumper coverage. The warranties can be purchased from an aftermarket provider or from the manufacturer through a dealership. Prices, mileage, deductibles and terms differ widely, so while one may seem cheaper, it may not give you the coverage you need. Learn how to compare extended car warranties.

Instructions

1

Choose a warranty that suits your vehicle. If you have a car that lacks power windows or locks, you probably dont need an extended bumper-to-bumper warranty. If you have all the bells and whistles, having a full bumper-to-bumper warranty may serve its purpose well, as sunroofs, heated seats or navigation systems can prove expensive for repair or replacement.

2

Ask for a list of covered items for the warranties you are comparing. While the technical terms for covered repairs or parts may seem confusing, you should ask any questions to the warranty representative, so that you are sure what is covered and what is not. Compare printed lists to determine similarities and differences, and ask questions if you find any covered items missing from contracts you are comparing.

3

Compare the term and mileage for your warranty. You should ask for coverage that suits your driving needs, such as a 15,000-mile-per-year instead of a 10,000-miles-per-year allowance if you commute. For those who do not drive much, the years are more important than the mileage, such as a four-year, 40,000-mile-per-term warranty over a two-year, 40,000-mile-per-term option.

4

Compare prices and deductibles. Once youve determined comparable coverage and a term that fits your needs, pay close attention to the deductible. You should note that deductibles are charged per incident, so make sure you are choosing an affordable deductible, although some warranties are available without a deductible.

5

Ask where you can service your car. If youre purchasing from a manufacturer, you can use any same-make, new-car dealer. Extended warranties are usually accepted by any shop that uses the company. Find out if you are expected to pay first and be reimbursed later, or call around to shops in your area to ask if they take the warranty that you are considering for purchase.

6

Ask if the warranty is transferable. This means that if you sell your car during the contract period, you can offer the remainder of coverage with your sale. Or, ask if you can be prorated back any of the contract cost amount should you cancel the warranty at a later date.

Since the introduction of the 260D car in 1936, the Mercedes Benz company has been focused on diesel-powered automobiles and its cars are still on the cutting edge of todays diesel vehicles. To keep your Mercedes running smoothly, its advisable to own some of the specialized Mercedes diesel tools.

Engine Tools

If you need to remove the pre-combustion chambers on your diesel motor, use a slide hammer with a threaded adapter or get the special slide hammer adapter with two different threads. Other specialized wrenches and sockets include the pre-chamber retainer ring pin wrench, which removes and installs the threaded retainer ring of the pre-chamber, and a multi-spline socket to remove the pre-combustion chamber retainer ring on later injection diesel models. For the glow plugs, you can use a glow plug bore reamer, which is a pencil-type reamer that removes the carbon deposit from the glow plug holes. This reamer comes for turbo or non-turbo diesels. Many other tools, like hex head sockets, used to access the head bolts, can be used for both diesel and gasoline Mercedes Benz cars.

Cylinder Head and Engine Timing Tools

If you need to adjust the valves of your diesel engine, a pair of diesel valve adjusting wrenches and retaining nut holders come in handy. The diesel spring plate holding wrench will hold the retaining nut as you adjust the valves. To check the compression, get a compression gauge and an adapter. The gauge comes with a hose and the adapter of your choice. Make your car run its best with some new glow plugs, or analyze your old plugs with the glow plug analyzer, which tests 12-volt glow plug systems in the newer model diesel engines. To reach the deep port injectors and the glow plugs easily, a diesel compression adapter extension can be used.

Injection Tools

Test your cars opening pressure, the spray pattern and the cleaning injectors with a diesel injection nozzle tester. You can get this tool in a kit, which includes a gauge and the pump and steel adaptor lines. This kit is adaptable for gasoline injectors, too. A specialized diesel fuel pressure tester lets you measure the fuel pressure in high pressure CDI-type engines and a timing tool allows you to calculate the start of the fuel delivery with the RIV method. To maintain your timing while working on the pump, use a diesel pump lock pin, which locks the pump cam. The diesel drip tube helps you adjust the start of the fuel delivery and a vacuum control adjusting roller can measure the vacuum pressures on the control valve. A diesel nozzle socket and an injection socket are helpful tools, too.

The Vortec engine is a line of gasoline engines made by General Motors for its trucks since 1988. These engines use a technology that creates a vortex of fuel and air in the combustion chamber to improve the mixture of air and fuel. The most common Vortec engine in a 1995 vehicle is the 4300, a six-cylinder 4.3-liter engine with multi-point fuel injection. The fuel injector replacement procedure is generally the same for all Vortec engines made before 1999.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the cable from the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench. Open the filler cap on the fuel tank to relieve the pressure in the fuel tank. Remove the air cleaner from the intake manifold.

2

Squeeze the two tabs on the fuel injectors electrical connector, and pull it straight up to disconnect the electrical wiring from the fuel injector. Disconnect the cover for the fuel meter with a socket wrench, and discard its gasket.

3

Lift the fuel injector from the fuel meter with tool No. J-26868, and remove the small O-ring from the fuel injector. Remove the fuel filter from the injector by twisting the fuel filter back and forth. Remove the large O-ring and washer from the injector cavity in the fuel meter.

4

Coat the new small O-rings in automatic transmission fluid, and install them to the nozzle end of the fuel injector. Place the new washer into the injector cavity of the fuel meter, so that it is flush with the top of the cavity.

5

Install the new fuel injector so the lug on its base aligns with the notch in the injector cavity. Push the fuel injector down to seat it within the injector cavity, and ensure the injectors electrical terminals are parallel to the shaft of the throttle.

6

Replace the gasket for the fuel meter cover, and fasten the cover with a socket wrench. Attach the electrical connector for the fuel injector. Start the engine and check for fuel leaks.

Harleys with electronic fuel injection are more common now. Everything on a fuel-injected Harley is connected together through what is essentially a black box called an electronic control module. When one component of the electronic chain breaks, it is sometimes necessary to test several components. One of those components is the fuel sender, which provides data to both the gas gauge and the fuel pump. The sender is usually removed to perform what is called a "fuel sender test."

Instructions

1

Remove the seat by loosening the Allen screw that connects the seat locking tab to the rear fender.

2

Grab the sideplate on the right side of the motorcycle with both hands and pull. Pry the full pump fuse from the fuse block with a small flat head screwdriver.

3

Start the engine in neutral and allow the engine to run until it stalls. Operate the starter for 3 seconds after the bike stalls.

4

Disconnect the negative battery wire from the battery terminal with an open end wrench.

5

Remove the acorn nut and washer on instrument console with an Allen wrench. Separate the instrument console from the fuel tank.

6

Unplug the plastic fuel-pump module connector from the wiring harness. Remove the 10 fuel tank top-plate fasteners with an Allen wrench. Remove the top plate.

7

Reach into the fuel tank and push the fuel pump housing down to disengage it from the pump housing and disengage it from the end cap.

8

Pull the fuel pump out of the fuel tank just far enough to reach the fuel gauge sending unit on the right interior of the fuel tank.

9

Pull the fuel sender attachment tab towards the top of the fuel tank to release the sending unit from mounting tabs. Remove the fuel sender and float.