Fix It

When rebuilding an engine, the clearance between the main bearings and the crankshafts main bearing journals are critical. Too much clearance results in engine knocks, while not enough clearance results in burned bearings because they cannot get proper lubrication. These clearances are especially important to measure and adjust after machining the crankshaft to remove imperfections. Although it sounds complicated, measuring the clearances and adjusting them to specifications is really quite simple.

Instructions

1

Dip a set of standard size main bearings in engine oil and slip them into the block and main bearing caps.

2

Set the crankshaft in the block, ensuring that the main bearing journals of the crankshaft sit on the main bearings in the block.

3

Smear a light coating of grease across the center of the bearing journals on the crankshaft. Put a string of Plastigauge in the grease on each main bearing journal. The grease will keep the Plastigauge in place.

4

Install each bearing cap in its original position, thread the bearing cap bolts into the block through the bearing caps. Tighten the bearing caps with any tools necessary from a toolkit. Torque the main bearing cap bolts with a torque wrench.

5

Remove the main bearing caps, one bearing cap at a time. Measure the Plastigauge with the built in scale on the Plastigauge packaging. Subtract the recommended factory main bearing clearance from the Plastigauge reading. The result will be the size of the oversize bearing needed for that particular main bearing journal. Repeat for all main bearing caps.

6

Remove the crankshaft. Slip the appropriate over-sized bearing in the block required for each crankshaft journal, depending on their individual Plastigauge readings, after dipping them in motor oil. Slide the other half of the bearing into the main bearing cap after dipping it in motor oil. Plastigauge each bearing again to ensure all bearing clearances are correct before proceeding any further. Adjust the bearing sizes as needed.

The first thing you can do to replace the catalytic converter in your Toyota Tercel is forget about the cheaper universal fit catalytic converter at the auto parts stores. Although this may seemingly save you money for the part, youre going to have to buy adapters or figure out how to make that universal fit converter fit like a direct fit converter. A direct fit converter for a Tercel will have a two-point flange on either side and will do just as its label describes: fit directly. In the long run it will save you time, money, and will work better for your Tercel since it was specifically designed for it.

Instructions

1

Lift the Toyota Tercel on a car lift all the way up.

2

Put on the cutting glasses, and light the acetylene torch using a striker. Cut the bolts and nuts from the catalytic converter from the flange(s) on the converter side. This way you will not incur damage to the flanges bolted to the converter flanges. Cut the bolt heads (with the torch) or the nuts flush to the converter flange.

3

Turn the torch off, switch over to safety glasses, and knock out the bolts from the converter side of the flanges using the hammer and a long stemmed punch. If they do not punch through, you may need to relight the torch and cut into the bolt hole a little deeper.

4

Remove the old converter.

5

Pick the old gaskets off of the pipe flanges on both side using a pick or awl.

6

Clean the surface of the flat part of the pipe flanges on both sides using an angled die grinder with a sanding disk.

7

Place the new gaskets onto the small pipe outlet protruding from the pipe flanges.

8

Check the exhaust flow of the new catalytic converter. It will be stamped on the shell or shields of the converter and be easy to see. There will be an arrow pointing in the direction of the exhaust flow or an A and B marking. A would indicate towards the front of the motor, and B would indicate towards the back of the Tercel.

9

Attach the converter flanges to the pipe flanges and place the bolts into the flanges (in any direction) in this fashion: bolt head with a flat washer through the flanges, then a lock washer and nut.

10

Tighten the bolts and nuts holding one end with a wrench and tightening with an air ratchet. Tighten each bolt a little bit, switch to the next one, and continue this pattern until all four nuts and bolts have seated the flanges tight together.

11

Remove tools and lower the Tercel on the lift. Start it up, raise it up again, and check for any possible leaks coming from the flange connections. If so, tighten the bolts some more.

The General Motors Oil Life Monitor System first appeared in GM trucks in the 2000 model year. The system measures the remaining service life of an engines motor oil based on several factors, including the number of engine starts, miles driven at operating temperature and total hours of engine operation. The Oil Life Monitor System determines intervals between oil changes based on operating conditions. You should reset the oil light to initiate a service interval after you change the oil.

Instructions

1

Turn the ignition key to the "on" position.

2

Depress the accelerator pedal three times to the floor in rapid succession within five seconds. Turn the ignition key off and wait for ten seconds.

3

Turn the ignition key to the "Start" position, and start the engine. The Oil Life Monitor system has been reset.

The water pump in a 1990 Ford F-150 Lariat keeps the engine cool by circulating water and coolant throughout the engine. A malfunctioning water pump can cause the engines temperature to increase, even when the radiator has sufficient coolant. This may eventually result in permanent damage to the engine. The pump attaches to the timing chain cover on the front of the engine block. You will need to drain the cooling system when replacing the pump.

Instructions

1

Position a sealable container under the radiator drain hole and remove the drain plug. Wait for the coolant to drain into the container. Seal the container for later use. Replace the drain plug.

2

Remove the mounting bolts for the cooling fan shroud with a socket wrench. Disconnect the shroud from the radiator. Detach the radiator hose, bypass hose and heater hose from the water pump. Disconnect the drive belt and the cooling fan assembly, including the fan spacer and pulley.

3

Remove the alternator mounting bolts with a socket wrench, and move the alternator out of the way to access the water pump. You may also need to remove the power steering pump bracket if the vehicle is so equipped. Disconnect the mounting bolts for the water pump and detach the pump from the timing chain cover. Discard the water pump gasket.

4

Apply a thin layer of sealer to the new gasket. Install the new pump and gasket to the timing chain cover. Tighten the mounting bolts for the water pump to 18 foot-pounds with a torque wrench.

5

Repeat steps two and three in reverse order to complete the installation of the new water pump. Replace the coolant in the radiator.

The 1998 Dodge pickup uses a crank sensor to feed detailed information to the power train control module to indicate the current position of the crankshaft as it rotates, as well as the crankshafts revolutions per minute (rpm). The crankshaft position sensors data determines when to fire the fuel injectors. On gasoline engines, it also determines when to fire the ignition coil to light the fuel-air mixture. Intermittent problems with the crankshaft position sensor cause hesitations and stalling of the vehicle. A continuous error with the crank sensor will prevent the vehicle from starting. Testing the crankshaft position sensor requires access to the sensor and plug.

Instructions

Gasoline Engines

1

Set the parking brake of the 1998 Dodge pickup truck. Pull the hood release handle. Open the hood.

2

Disconnect the negative battery cable. Loosen the 10 mm retaining nut on the battery cable clamp using a 10 mm wrench. Pry the battery cable off the negative battery post by twisting side to side by hand. The negative battery post has a "-" label next to it.

3

Stand on the passenger side of the truck. Place the work light next to the exhaust manifold as close as possible to the firewall.

4

Lean over the fender. Extend the telescoping inspection mirror in between the back of the cylinder head and the firewall.

5

Angle the mirror to inspect the edge of the transmission bell housing where it meets the engine block. A steel bracket secured by two 10 mm bolts with a three-wire harness retains the crankshaft position sensor, which reads gaps in a ring of the flywheel.

Diesel Engines

6

Open the hood of the 1998 Dodge pickup, and disconnect the negative battery cable using a 10 mm wrench.

7

Lie down face up on an automotive creeper, and slide under the drivers side of the vehicle just behind the tire, taking the wrench and the trouble light with you.

8

Hang an automotive trouble light underneath the vehicle.

9

Remove the three 10 mm bolts retaining the starter to the transmission bell housing using a 10 mm wrench. Remove the starter.

10

Look directly between the engine block and the location from which you removed the starter. The crankshaft position sensor is a black plastic sensor with an aluminum retaining bracket held in place by a single 10 mm bolt. The crank sensor has a three-wire harness plugged into it.

Engine problems in Jeep Liberties have led to a safety recall due to the possibility of engine fires. On July 2, 2004, DaimlerChrysler Corporation and the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration announced a recall of 1,600 Jeep Liberty vehicles for engine problems.

Engine Defect

Certain Jeep Liberty sport utility vehicles equipped with 3.7L engines were recalled for engine-related manufacturing defects that could lead to serious problems. Two valve cover studs on these vehicles could interfere with the fuel injector and alternator wiring harness, according to NHTSA.

Safety Risk

Due to this safety hazard, the NHTSA warns that a fire could start under the hood as a result of damage to the alternator wiring harness. Registered vehicle owners were notified of the safety recall beginning July 19, 2004, and instructed on where to bring the vehicles for repair to avoid the risk of a fire.

Solution

Authorized dealers were instructed to add protective caps to the valve cover studs and re-route the affected wiring harness to provide clearance, according to the manufacturer and NHTSA. Consumers who purchased second-hand vehicles or who are otherwise concerned about whether they may have been affected by the Jeep Liberty engine-related recall may contact the NHTSA for more information. Refer to recall number 04V337000.

Honda produced the F22A6 for use in the Honda Accord during the years 1991 through 1993. The Honda Accord was manufactured during these years as a coupe, sedan and a wagon in trim levels that included the DX, SE, LX and EX. Most Accords during these years were manufactured with manual transmissions, although the 1991 Accord SE sedan and 1992 Accord SE sedan and coupe used an automatic transmission.

General

The F22A6 is an in-line four-cylinder engine built in a single overhead cam configuration. In the 1991 to 1993 Honda Accord, it was configured as a front-wheel-drive engine. In the various trim levels, it achieved 19 to 22 mpg in the city, 25 to 28 mpg on the highway, and 21 to 24 mpg combined.

Displacement

The F22A6 has a displacement of 2,156 cubic centimeters or 132 cubic inches, and was listed as a 2.2-liter engine. The cylinder bore measures 85 millimeters and the piston stroke 95 millimeters with a compression ratio of 8.8:1.

Power

Basic engine horsepower of the F22A6 without accessories is listed at 140 horsepower at 5,600 rpm. Installed in the Accord, it delivers 125 horsepower to the wheels at 5,200 rpm. The F22A6 is capable of 142 foot-lbs. of torque at 5,400 rpm but in the Accord delivers 137 foot-lbs. at 4,000 rpm.

Honda introduced the mid-sized complement to its compact Civic -- the Honda Accord in the 1976 model year. The Accord began its life as a feature-packed vehicle for its era sporting high-end elements, such as an AM-FM stereo, rear defroster and a remote hatch release. The 2001 Accord EX came standard with a wide array of features including an AM-FM stereo with a 6-disc CD player. An anti-theft system protected the stereo by locking the stereo from working when it lost power until you entered a five-digit code. If youve lost the code, contact the dealership with the radios serial number to get the code.

Instructions

Entering the Radio Code

1

Insert the key in the Accords ignition and turn it to the "Acc" or "On" position.

2

Turn the radio on by pressing the volume button, if needed.

3

Observe as "Code" appears on the radios display.

4

Enter the five-digit code from the radio code card the dealership provided with the vehicle, by pressing the corresponding preset buttons on the radio. If entered correctly, the radio begins to play. If the radio does not play, turn the Accord off and retry from Step 3. If you do not have the five digit code, see the section titled "Obtaining a Lost Radio Code."

5

Turn the Accord off.

Obtaining a Lost Radio Code

6

Turn the Accords ignition to the "Acc" or "On" position.

7

Press and hold the number 1 and 6 preset buttons and turn on the radio by pressing the volume button on the radio.

8

Observe as four digits appear on the radios screen, make note of these numbers. After five seconds, a second set of four numbers appears on the screen, write down these numbers. All eight numbers make up the radios eight-digit serial number.

9

Take the eight-digit serial number to a Honda dealership to obtain the radio code.

The crank position sensor in a General Motors Northstar engine is part of the sensing and diagnostic system that is controlled by the powertrain control module (PCM). The crank position sensor sends information to the PCM about the position of the crankshaft relative to the engine block. The PCM uses this information to determine when to actuate specific electronic components, such as the ignition. When the crank sensor fails, the engine will not start. Replacement sensors are available from Cadillac dealerships and local auto parts stores.

Instructions

1

Place the vehicles transmission in the park or "P" position. Shut down the engine and set the parking brake. Let the vehicle cool for at least 60 minutes before proceeding.

2

Open the hood and disconnect the negative battery lead using a battery terminal wrench.

3

Locate the crank position sensor on right side of the engine block, approximately three inches above the oil filter housing. It is made from black plastic and is connected to the engine with a 10 mm bolt.

4

Depress the locking tab on the sensors electrical connector and unplug the connector from the sensor. Remove the bolt holding the sensor to the engine, using a 3/8-inch ratchet and a 10 mm socket. Grip the sensor with a slip-joint pliers and gently remove it using a twisting/pulling motion.

5

Lubricate the new crank sensor with a small amount of clean engine oil. Install the new sensor into the engine block using a twisting/pushing motion. Reinstall the sensors retaining bolt and reattach its electrical connector.

6

Reconnect the negative battery lead. Start the engine and verify that it operates properly. The engine should start within three seconds of cranking and run smoothly.

Removing the EGR valve from the 2.8-liter diesel engine in a Jeep Liberty can be time-consuming. Fortunately, with a little effort and a lot of patience, you can do it yourself and save on an otherwise large repair bill. The EGR valve is located on the back of the engine, just below the intake manifold on the drivers side of the engine. The valve bolts in place with four 8-millimeter bolts that are hidden below the manifold, so you will not be able to see them.

Instructions

1

Open the hood of your Jeep and locate the negative battery cable on the battery. Loosen the pinch bolt with a wrench then lift the cable off the battery and set it aside.

2

Position a catch basin under the passengers side of the radiator and remove the petcock from the radiator tank, allowing the coolant to drain from the system. Once the coolant has stopped draining, replace the petcock.

3

Remove the bolts from the top of the engine cover on the engine, using a socket and ratchet. Lift the cover off the engine and set it aside.

4

Locate the EGR valve on the back of the engine near the drivers side head. Remove the clamps from the cooling lines on the EGR valve then pull the two coolant lines off the valve.

5

Remove the four 8-millimeter bolts from the EGR valve with a wrench then separate the valve from the engine block. A ratcheting wrench may be necessary to remove the 8-millimeter bolts.

Depending on what year and what motor you have in your GMC Sonoma will dictate the level of difficulty and the type of catalytic converter you need for replacement. Before the year 2000, the converter was connected to the exhaust system behind the front exhaust pipe in the popular 4.3 liter engine. In the year 2000, the catalytic converter became the front exhaust pipe which is much more challenging and difficult to remove and replace.

Instructions

How to Install a Catalytic Converter in a GMC Sonoma

1

Lift the GMC Sonoma all the up on the car lift. Load all the tools and the new converter into the tool cart/tray and wheel it over near you under the Sonoma, but out of your way. Put on the safety glasses.

2

Locate and remove the oxygen sensors. In the front Y-pipe converter application, there will be three oxygen sensors. In the older kind of Sonoma, there is only one oxygen sensor. Locate the plugs for the wire and unplug them using the flathead screwdriver to press in on the clip lock. Use the ratchet and oxygen sensor socket to remove the sensors. If need be, you may have to heat the pipe up a little with the torch to extract them. Allow them to cool down if you needed the torch.

3

Screw the oxygen sensor(s) into the new converter, but apply a light coat of anti-seize lubricant on the threads first. For the Y-pipe with three sensors, make sure to put the correct sensor into the correct port. Be caul not to overtighten to prevent stripping out the threads of the sensor(s).

4

Light the torch with the striker and heat up one nut on the manifold stud at a time (for the front Y-pipe converter). When the nut is cherry red, place the pneumatic gun, extension, swivel and socket onto it and remove the nut. If the converter is connected to the front pipe, cut the three nuts and bolts with the torch on both sides of the flange, then use the hammer and punch to knock the rest of the bolt out of the flange connection.

5

Cut the two or three nuts and bolts out of the rear flange connection on the converter using the torch. Cut the bolt on both sides of the flange and knock the rest of the bolt from the flange connection using the hammer and a punch. Be caul on the last bolt as the converter will separate from the exhaust system. Put on the gloves and remove the old converter.

6

Install the new catalytic converter starting with the inlet first (closest to the motor). Install the gasket(s) first and then thread on new manifold stud bolts for the Y-pipe converter or replace the nuts and bolts on the converter connected to the front pipe. Use a bolt head and washer on one side and a lock washer and nut on the other side of the flange.

7

Tighten the nuts on the manifold with the gun or tighten the nuts and bolts on the flange connection, using the gun on one side and holding the bolt steady with a hand wrench on the other.

8

Replace the gasket and hardware on the rear connection of the catalytic converter. Place the bolt head and flat washer on one side and the lock washer and nut on the other side of the flange connection. Tighten with the gun on the nut side and hold the bolt head with a hand wrench.

9

Plug the oxygen sensor wire(s) back into the plug(s).

10

Remove the tool cart and any other debris from under the Sonoma, lower the truck and start the engine up. Raise it back up and check for any possible exhaust leaks coming from the manifold, flange or oxygen sensor connections. Tighten as needed.

The mid-size Mazda 6 was in its second generation as of 2010, having grown a bit over the previous generation of the car. There are seven trim models, with the more top-of-the-line variations equipped with niceties like alloy wheels, Bluetooth connectivity and xenon headlights. Most Mazda 6 cars, though, will have halogen bulbs. Exercise caution when changing halogen bulbs, as they are easily damaged if scratched or dropped.

Instructions

High-Beam Headlight

1

Turn off the ignition and the headlights.

2

Open the hood and remove the bolts from the coolant reservoir. Using your wrench, turn the bolts counterclockwise to remove.

3

Disconnect the bulbs electrical connector. Press on the connector tab and pull downward to remove.

4

Turn the bulb socket counterclockwise to remove the bulb. Then insert a new halogen bulb, turning clockwise to install.

5

Re-install the coolant reservoir.

Low-Beam Headlights

6

Turn off the ignition and the headlights.

7

Move the steering wheel to the right if youre replacing the left-hand light and vice-versa.

8

Open the hood and remove the bulbs plastic container screws. Turn counterclockwise to remove the six screws.

9

Turn the bulb cover counterclockwise.

10

Detach the electrical connector of the bulb by pulling it to the rear.

11

Pull downward and away to remove the bulb from the spring.

12

Remove the adapter from the bulb and attach a new bulb onto the adapter.

13

Insert the bulb into the bulb socket, connecting the electrical connections.

14

Insert the bulb cover, fastening the screws clockwise.

A free flow exhaust is a type of system installed in vehicles for increased power and a sporty look. They are designed to remove engine emissions more efficiently than standard exhaust systems.

Purpose

Free flow exhaust systems are designed for looks and increased efficiency and power in vehicles. They are typically made of 100 percent stainless steel, which offers a nice sporty look. They weigh less than standard exhaust systems, which helps account for increased fuel economy and improvement in acceleration.

Process

Exhaust systems are used for removing spent gas from a vehicles engine; theore exhaust systems play a role in engine tuning and performance. A free flow system allows the spent gas to exit the vehicle more efficiently by changing the pipes used in the system and installing an intercooler between the engine and the exhaust.

Benefits

With a free flow exhaust system, a smoother removal of spent gas is offered. Because of this, vehicle owners notice an improvement in the overall way their vehicle runs. These systems promote better gas mileage and increased acceleration as well.

The flashers, also called blinkers or turn signals, as well as the hazard lights on the Ford F-150 pickup truck are all controlled by one simple relay module. If you have a front or rear flasher that isnt working, chances are you need to replace a simple five-pin relay module located on your steering column. The part costs very little, and replacing it will take just a few minutes of your time.

Instructions

1

Use a flat-head screwdriver to gently pry the clam-shell door open. The door is located under the instrument panel on the top of the steering column between the instrument panel and the steering wheel.

2

Remove the door and set it in a safe place.

3

Remove the blue five-pin relay from the column by pulling it gently from the plug.

4

Remove the screw from the top of the relay.

5

Replace the screw on the top of the relay.

6

Replace the relay with the new one (part number F65B-13350-AA). Plug the new relay in where you removed the old one.

7

Close the clam-shell door by lining it up and pressing down until it snaps in place.

The casting numbers on the block of a Ford engine help identify the specific engine. The numbers are often useful in mating cylinder heads, determining when and where the block was manufactured and into which mode of Ford it was installed. Locating the casting number is relatively easy if youre physically fit and have some dexterity. The casting number must be decoded to understand the information it contains.

Instructions

1

Angle your inspection mirror underneath the back side of the engine block, where the starter mounts to the engine. Depending on your physical size -- and the specific year, make and model of your Ford -- observation is possible from the top of the engine well. Another option is jack up the Ford up, support it on two jack stands and look for the numbers from beneath the vehicle.

2

Shine your flashlight on the inspection mirror. Illuminate the section of the block where Ford stamped the casting number. This is directly beside the starter mount, where the starter motor bolts to the engine.

3

Write down the casting number down with pen and paper.

Installation of a new catalytic converter on your Jeep Liberty will improve the engine performance of your Jeep. If the converter becomes plugged it can over heat or limit the engines ability to breathe by limiting the flow of exhaust out of the engine. The converter is an important part of the exhaust system and while they are expensive to replace, they are necessary for the engine to run properly. Be sure to allow the exhaust to cool if the Jeep has been running before you start working on it. The pipe and converter get very hot when the engine is operating.

Instructions

1

Locate the front mounting flange from the front exhaust pipe for the catalytic converter. There are two bolts that secure the flange from the converter to the flange on the pipe.

2

Position the catalytic converter so the two flanges line up, insert the gasket between the flanges and insert the retaining bolts. Install two nuts on the mounting bolts and tighten them with a socket and ratchet or wrench.

3

Insert the mounting rod on the converter into the hanger under the cross member located near the center of the converter. This hanger is a rubber hanger that the mounting rod slides into.

4

Slide the tail pipe onto the output pipe on the rear of the converter and install the band clamp. Tighten the clamp with a socket and ratchet until it is tight but do not over tighten it or you will crush the pipe.

5

Start the engine and check for leaks in the exhaust system. If you find a leak, tighten the clamp or bolts needed to tighten up the pipes and close the leak.