Fix It

You can reset the service engine light on your Chevrolet S10 by using an OBD-II scan tool. This on-board diagnostic tool can be purchased from your local auto parts retailer, although many such stores will check the code and reset the light at no charge.



The service engine light will turn on at regular intervals when your vehicle needs routine maintenance. After the maintenance is completed you will need to manually reset the light to turn it off. This is an easy adjustment that will only take a few moments.

Instructions

1

Look for the OBD II port located near the emergency brake on the lower dashboard. The OBD II port will be the receptive end for the connector on the OBD II scanner tool. Examine the connector end of the tool and the receptive port to make sure you have the correct port. Plug the OBD II scanner tool into the port.

2

Close the doors, roll up the windows and turn on the OBD II scanner tool. Put the key into the ignition and turn it to "on," but take care not to start the engine. Turning the vehicle on will start the electrical system which will power the OBD II scanner tool and allow it to do its job. The engine needs to remain off for the scanner to work.

3

Wait for the screen on the scanner to stop flashing. The service engine light will have turned off. Turn the key in the ignition to "off" and unplug the scanner.

4

Restart the engine and verify that the service engine light is still off on the instrument panel. Turn off the car.

When rebuilding an engine, the clearance between the main bearings and the crankshafts main bearing journals are critical. Too much clearance results in engine knocks, while not enough clearance results in burned bearings because they cannot get proper lubrication. These clearances are especially important to measure and adjust after machining the crankshaft to remove imperfections. Although it sounds complicated, measuring the clearances and adjusting them to specifications is really quite simple.

Instructions

1

Dip a set of standard size main bearings in engine oil and slip them into the block and main bearing caps.

2

Set the crankshaft in the block, ensuring that the main bearing journals of the crankshaft sit on the main bearings in the block.

3

Smear a light coating of grease across the center of the bearing journals on the crankshaft. Put a string of Plastigauge in the grease on each main bearing journal. The grease will keep the Plastigauge in place.

4

Install each bearing cap in its original position, thread the bearing cap bolts into the block through the bearing caps. Tighten the bearing caps with any tools necessary from a toolkit. Torque the main bearing cap bolts with a torque wrench.

5

Remove the main bearing caps, one bearing cap at a time. Measure the Plastigauge with the built in scale on the Plastigauge packaging. Subtract the recommended factory main bearing clearance from the Plastigauge reading. The result will be the size of the oversize bearing needed for that particular main bearing journal. Repeat for all main bearing caps.

6

Remove the crankshaft. Slip the appropriate over-sized bearing in the block required for each crankshaft journal, depending on their individual Plastigauge readings, after dipping them in motor oil. Slide the other half of the bearing into the main bearing cap after dipping it in motor oil. Plastigauge each bearing again to ensure all bearing clearances are correct before proceeding any further. Adjust the bearing sizes as needed.

Engine problems in Jeep Liberties have led to a safety recall due to the possibility of engine fires. On July 2, 2004, DaimlerChrysler Corporation and the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration announced a recall of 1,600 Jeep Liberty vehicles for engine problems.

Engine Defect

Certain Jeep Liberty sport utility vehicles equipped with 3.7L engines were recalled for engine-related manufacturing defects that could lead to serious problems. Two valve cover studs on these vehicles could interfere with the fuel injector and alternator wiring harness, according to NHTSA.

Safety Risk

Due to this safety hazard, the NHTSA warns that a fire could start under the hood as a result of damage to the alternator wiring harness. Registered vehicle owners were notified of the safety recall beginning July 19, 2004, and instructed on where to bring the vehicles for repair to avoid the risk of a fire.

Solution

Authorized dealers were instructed to add protective caps to the valve cover studs and re-route the affected wiring harness to provide clearance, according to the manufacturer and NHTSA. Consumers who purchased second-hand vehicles or who are otherwise concerned about whether they may have been affected by the Jeep Liberty engine-related recall may contact the NHTSA for more information. Refer to recall number 04V337000.

Honda produced the F22A6 for use in the Honda Accord during the years 1991 through 1993. The Honda Accord was manufactured during these years as a coupe, sedan and a wagon in trim levels that included the DX, SE, LX and EX. Most Accords during these years were manufactured with manual transmissions, although the 1991 Accord SE sedan and 1992 Accord SE sedan and coupe used an automatic transmission.

General

The F22A6 is an in-line four-cylinder engine built in a single overhead cam configuration. In the 1991 to 1993 Honda Accord, it was configured as a front-wheel-drive engine. In the various trim levels, it achieved 19 to 22 mpg in the city, 25 to 28 mpg on the highway, and 21 to 24 mpg combined.

Displacement

The F22A6 has a displacement of 2,156 cubic centimeters or 132 cubic inches, and was listed as a 2.2-liter engine. The cylinder bore measures 85 millimeters and the piston stroke 95 millimeters with a compression ratio of 8.8:1.

Power

Basic engine horsepower of the F22A6 without accessories is listed at 140 horsepower at 5,600 rpm. Installed in the Accord, it delivers 125 horsepower to the wheels at 5,200 rpm. The F22A6 is capable of 142 foot-lbs. of torque at 5,400 rpm but in the Accord delivers 137 foot-lbs. at 4,000 rpm.

You can reset and turn off the "Service Engine Soon" light on your 1997 Saturn L1. The On-Board Diagnostics computer keeps track of regular service intervals. Its important to always do the servicing first before resetting the light. This will allow the vehicles computer to keep accurate track of when the next service is due.

Instructions

1

Pop open the hood of the vehicle. Find the battery. Behind the batter is a black fuse box. Release the retaining clips and lift off the top of the box.

2

Look for the "Reset" button below a reddish-orange block. Press the button and hold it for five seconds.

3

Put the key in the ignition and turn the vehicle on, but dont start the engine. Wait one minute. The light should have turned off. If not, turn off the vehicle and turn the ignition to the "ACC" setting. Press the "Reset" button again and hold it for 15 seconds.

4

Turn off the car and remove the key. Put the key back in the ignition and start the engine. Let it run for at least two minutes. The computer should now have registered the reset and the service engine light should now be off.

Chevy engine problems have led General Motors and the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration to recall 1,497,516 automobiles including 2000-2003 model year Chevrolet Impala vehicles equipped with 3.8L V6 naturally aspirated engines. This recall was announced by the NHTSA on April 8, 2009. Consumers were notified by General Motors of the recall in May 2009.

Type of Engine Problems

Nearly 1,500,000 General Motors vehicles with model years of 1997-2003, including model year 2000-2003 Chevy Impalas may have potentially dangerous engine problems. Per the NHTSA, some of these Chevrolet Impalas may have a condition in which drops of engine oil may be deposited on the exhaust manifold through hard braking.

Safety Risk

If oil runs below the heat shield when the manifold pressure is hot enough, the NHTSA warns that a flame may ignite and spread to the plastic spark plug wire channel and beyond. An engine compartment fire may occur, putting drivers, passengers and property in harms way.

Remedy

Chevy Impala registered vehicle owners should have received notice of the recall in May 2009, according to the NHTSA. Consumers affected by this Chevrolet Impala recall were offered free repairs by the manufacturer, as required by law. Authorized dealers were instructed to remove the potentially dangerous spark plug wire retention channel at the front of the engine and to install two new spark plug wire retainers at no charge to the consumer.

Combustion engines rely on good timing to run their best. Power, fuel efficiency and emissions can be controlled simply by adjusting the ignition timing. Late-model engine technicians will set your timing when the engine is warm but there is another way. Learn how to set ignition timing on a cold engine if you cant get the engine to start and run correctly in the first place.

Instructions

1

Turn the engine over using the current ignition setting. Listen to the engine as it tries to start. Confirm that you have enough battery power to start the engine and sufficient fuel entering the engine.

2

Locate the distributor. Find the retaining bolt at the base of the distributor where it enters the engine and loosen this retaining bolt so you can turn the distributor by hand clockwise or counterclockwise.

3

Turn the distributor counterclockwise 1/2 inch with your hand. Turn the engine over again to start. Feed the engine fuel by continuously pressing and depressing the gas pedal as needed if the engine starts but runs poorly. Remove your foot from the gas pedal to see if it will idle without your help. (Continue to step 5 if the engine starts and idles.)

4

Listen to the engine as it tries to start. You will notice a difference in the way the engine is trying to fire. Stop turning the engine over and go back to the distributor. Turn the distributor by hand clockwise 1 inch. This will be the opposite move in timing from the previous counterclockwise adjustment. Adjusting the timing one way or the other will correct timing issues that stop a car from starting. Repeat until you set the timing closely enough to start the engine.

5

Adjust timing by hand when the engine is at idle. With the engine running, you will hear the rpm increase and the engine will run smoothly when you move the distributor in the right direction to the correct timing. Go past good timing and the power loss returns and the engine may stall. Set the timing by ear and then tighten the distributor retaining bolt to keep the correct timing adjustment.

Racing an engine to remove air is a method used to remove bubbles of air trapped within the coolant system of an automobile after you change the coolant. In order for the thermostat to work correctly, you must purge the system of air. Otherwise, the thermostat experiences pockets of air that disrupt the heating and cooling process. If you leave this process unchecked, it could cause expensive engine damage.

Instructions

1

Remove the radiator cap from the filler spout on the radiator. If your vehicle does not have a radiator cap, lift the cap off the expansion tank for the radiator.

2

Turn on the engine, rev it to approximately 3,000 RPM until the radiator fan turns on for a period of one minute, and then turn the vehicle off. The fan turning on is an indicator that the thermostat is in the open position, circulating the coolant through the engine. The air goes to the least path of resistance. In the coolant system, that is the hole in the filler spout.

3

Check the fluid level in the radiator. The level should be slightly lower than normal. Fill the fluid to within an inch of the top of the spout.

4

Repeat step two and three a second time and then place the cap back on the radiator.

Rebuilding a small engine can be more cost-effective than replacing it. To determine if the small engine is suitable for rebuilding, consider how serious the damage is, the amount of wear on the engine and what parts need to be replaced. Youll also need to make sure you have the right tools on hand to do the job.

Basic Tools

The basic tools and equipment needed to rebuild an engine include a set of hand tools, such as screwdrivers and wrenches; a torque wrench; feeler gauges; a ring compressor and a ring expander. You can also simplify the task of rebuilding a small engine by purchasing the parts you will need in an engine kit. A kit comes with bearings, pistons, rings, gear set, timing chain, gaskets, valve seals, camshaft, oil pump, lifters, and other necessary parts.

Crankshaft Bearings

Rebuilding a small engine will most likely require you to install new crankshaft bearings. As you detach the old bearings, determine if they are excessively damaged. If they have scoring, debris, dirt embedded on them, flaking or pitting, then you may need a new set.

Piston Rings

Oil burning and low compression are indications of worn rings. To restore the compression in the engine, this means you must replace the piston rings. Replacement rings are available in different sizes and materials. Most rings are made of cast iron, although there are engines that have steel rings. Rings can come plain-faced, with a molybdenum inlay, chrome-plated, or nitrated. When purchasing new rings, you should try to get them as close to the original rings as you can. Take the original rings with you when you buy new ones to make this task easier.

Camshaft

When replacing the camshaft, you can install either a performance camshaft or a stock replacement. Performance camshafts provide increased duration and lift for additional power. You should follow the recommendations of the camshaft supplier for the proper duration and lift.

The Subaru 2.5L engine is made from aluminum alloy. In order for the heads to properly seal and to prevent warping, a special sequence must be followed when installing the head bolts. Not only is the tightening method critical, so is the order. You will need both inch and foot pound torque wrenches as well as a torque angle gauge.

Clean All Surfaces

Clean the cylinder heads and the block mating surfaces thoroughly with lacquer thinner or acetone. Avoid any scraping tools that could mar the surface.

Position New Parts

Lubricate all bolts and washers with engine oil and place the new gasket on the head locating pins. Position the head on the block and finger tighten all bolts.

The Tightening Sequence

The order for tightening is as follows: top center, bottom center, left top, bottom right, bottom left, top right. Follow this sequence for each step.

Tight but not too Tight

Tighten all bolts to 22 foot-pounds. Tighten all bolts to 51 foot-pounds. This first sequence sets the gasket. Loosen all bolts in reverse order. Loosen them again another 160. Tighten bolts one and two to 25 to 36 foot-pounds. Tighten bolts three, four, five and six to 132 inch-pounds.

Final Procedure

Use the torque angle gauge to tighten all bolts another 90. Follow the sequence again and tighten them another 45. Tighten bolts one and two only an additional 45(turbocharged models only).

The 1993 Mercedes Benz lets you know when you need to have your engine looked at by a mechanic by illuminating the "Check Engine" light on your control panel. The cause of this light can be diagnosed using an OBD II scanner tool that reads trouble codes, telling you exactly what is wrong with your car. After the codes have been read and the problem repaired, you will want to clear the check engine light to turn it off. This can be done at home with no special tools required and just a few minutes of your time.

Instructions

1

Put the key into the ignition and turn the car on but dont start the engine. Notice the display on the instrument panel between the tachometer and the speedometer.

2

Press the button on the lower left side of the steering wheel. The display will tell you why the light is on.

3

Look for the button next to the one you just pushed and press it. This will verify the reason for the check engine light.

4

Find the reset button on the instrument panel. This is located on the left side of the panel. Press and hold it until you see the instructions telling you to hold it for 3 seconds to reset it. Let go of the reset button.

5

Press the reset button one more time and hold it until the display indicates that the check engine light has been reset. Release the button. The check engine light should now be off.

When the check engine light illuminates on your Jeep Liberty, it is the result of a problem code being sent from a sensor in the vehicle to the internal On-Board Diagnostics (OBD) computer. It means there is an electrical problem. You should have it looked at and fixed by a qualified mechanic before attempting to reset and turn off the light yourself. Once the problem is fixed, it will be very easy for you to manually reset the light and turn it off.

Instructions

1

Find the Diagnostic Link Connector, or DLC, to the right of and underneath the steering column. Plug the scanner into the port and put the key into the ignition. Turn the key to the accessory position.

2

Plug the pocket scanner into the DLC and then turn the ignition key to the accessory position. Turn on the pocket scanner.

3

Select "Erase" on the scanner to turn off the check engine light. You will know it worked when you see "Command Sent" or when the screen on the scanner is back to the main menu.

4

Turn the key to start the engine. The check engine light should now be off. If not, you will need to have the engine looked at again.

A remanufactured long block is an automobile engine that was used, then removed from an old vehicle and refurbished, then sold to a customer who needs a new engine. The term "long block" refers to what components are included in the final product -- a long block includes cylinder heads and some related parts while a short block does not. If your car is in otherwise good shape, replacing a worn engine with a long block is an economical alternative to buying a new car.

Remanufacturing an Engine

A remanufactured engine starts as a used engine. A mechanic or a technician at a remanufacturing facility will inspect the engine, looking it over for cracks and other conditions that determine whether it is rebuildable or not. If so, the facility fully takes apart the entire engine and cleans and inspects all the parts. Then the parts that are reusable, such as the block, the heads and the crankshaft, are resurfaced and put back into service. The rest of the parts are replaced with new parts, and the engine is reassembled.

Types of Remanufactured Engines

Remanufactured engines come in three general configurations. The short block consists of the engine block, crank shaft, pistons, connecting rods and sometimes the camshaft. The long block is nothing more than a short block with the cylinder heads added, as well as a camshaft and rocker arms. A complete engine adds in things like an oil pump, valve covers, an oil pan and an intake system.

Things to Consider

It has become more economical to replace an entire engine assembly instead of removing the old components from your existing engine and putting them on a new short block. It also takes less labor. Additionally, it makes sense to have all new or refurbished parts by using a long block rather than putting old parts on a new engine as is required with a short block. Check with a remanufacturing facility about what its long block engines contain. Different facilities sometimes have different ideas on what a long block contains.

Designed by Jan Wilsgaard, the Volvo 850 is a compact executive car available in both sedan and station wagon body styles. With features not previously offered in a Volvo, it was the first front-wheel drive Volvo exported to North America. One of several different engines can be found inside any given Volvo 850.

B 5204 S Engine

Used in Volvo 850s every year from 1992 to 1994, the B 5204 S engine is a 5-cylinder 2.0-liter engine with four valves per cylinder. The compression ratio is 10.3 to 1 and its output is 143 horsepower at 6500 rpm. Its max torque is 17.9 kpm at 3800 rpm.

B 5254 Engine

The B 5254 S engine has a compression ratio of 10.5 to 1. The output of the non-turbo version is 170 horsepower at 6200 rpm. It is a 5-cylinder, 2.5-liter engine with a max torque of 22.4 kpm at 3300 rpm. A low-pressure turbo version of this engine was made, the B 5254 T, which had 190 horsepower.

B 5252 S Engine

Found in Volvo 850 cars produced in 1993 and 1994, the B 5252 S engine has a compression ratio of 10.0 to 1. It is a 5-cylinder, 2.5-liter engine with an output of 140 horsepower at 5400 rpm and the max torque is 21.0 kpm at 3600 rpm. This engine was used exclusively for the Canadian market.

B 5234 T Engine

This high-pressure turbo engine with increased boost can only be found in Volvo 850 cars produced in 1994. This 5-cylinder, 2.3-liter engine has a compression ratio of 8.5 to 1, with an output of 225 horsepower to 5280 rpm. Its max torque is 30.6 kpm at 2000-5280 rpm.

You can reset the check engine light in your Toyota using an On-Board Diagnostics II scanner tool. When the light appears on your dashboard, have a mechanic look at your vehicle and fix any problems. The light can then be reset and turned off. Some people just disconnect the battery, but this will wipe out and reset the memory of other critical functions in your On-Board Diagnostics computer.

Instructions

1

Look to the right side of the hood release handle on the drivers side of the Toyota and find a port. Plug the OBD II scanner tool into this port and turn the key in the ignition to the "II" position.

2

Press the scroll buttons on the scanner to go through the items on the menu. Find a command that says "Erase," and then press it.

3

Watch for the main menu to appear, or wait until you receive a scanner message reading "Command Sent." Unplug the OBD II scanner tool and turn on the engine. Inspect the dashboard to determine if the check engine light is off.

The first double overhead camshaft engine was a two valve, and it was made for the Peugeot in 1913. Other early incarnations of the DOHC included the Alfa Romeo (1925), the Maserati (1926) and the Bugatti (1931). The Ford Motor Company first used the DOHC in its Kent (1962), and General Motors first used it in 1975 in its Cosworth 2300.

Design Specifications

The DOHC engine was designed using two separate camshafts mounted above the cylinders. Two camshafts can be found in each cylinder head, and each one controls the intake and exhaust valves. This means that in a DOHC V engine, there are four camshafts -- two for one cylinder head and two for the other.

Camshaft Operation and Spark Plug Location Specifications

In a DOHC engine, the camshaft controls the valves in two ways: directly or by using a short rocker. Camshaft adjustable pulleys can be used in a DOHC engine, which help improve the timing of the opening and closing of the valves. You can also install cams in a DOHC engine that will improve your cam lobe profile because you can moderate the lobe shape easier than in a single overhead camshaft engine. In a DOHC engine the spark plug is placed in the middle of the combustion chamber. Being in the middle improves the combustion efficiency of the engine.

Power Specifications

A DOHC engine is heavier than a single overhead camshaft (SOHC) engine. This means that a 16 valve SOHC engine would have a greater torque than the DOHC engine at low engine speeds. However, when the engine speeds are operating at their maximum, a 16 valve DOHC would have higher peak torque and horsepower levels.

Modern automobiles rely on sophisticated computerized engine management systems that include fuel injection, and monitor the air/fuel ratio by means of oxygen sensors in the exhaust system. Thus, oxygen sensors are an integral part of the engine system.

Air/Fuel Ratio

The air/fuel ratio for a gasoline engine has an optimal value of 14.7 to 1. This ratio results in good performance, and also reduces harmful emissions such as carbon monoxide and nitrogen oxides. Oxygen sensors monitor and maintain this critical ratio.

Performance and Emissions

Too much fuel in the air/fuel mix results in a "rich" mixture, and produces excessive unburned hydrocarbon emissions. Too little fuel results in a "lean" mixture, which produces excessive nitrogen oxide emissions. The fuel/air mix changes in response to data from the oxygen sensors, which monitor these emissions to make sure that the mix is neither too rich nor too lean.

Computer Management

A properly functioning engine management system uses fuel injection metering, a computer program and emissions sensors to ensure optimal engine performance, and the lowest possible level of harmful emissions, under a wide variety of operating conditions.

The Ford F-series includes pickup trucks in a variety of sizes. The F-350 is a full-size pickup that is classified as a 1-ton truck, although its actual carrying capacity is much larger. A 1995 Ford F-350 has several choices of engines, with the most common being an 8-cylinder 7.3-liter diesel engine. The oil pump in this vehicle is attached to the bottom of the engine block. The oil pump installation procedure also requires you to drain the oil from the engine.

Instructions

1

Ensure the engine is completely cold to avoid injury from hot oil. Place a drain pan under the engine oil and remove the drain bolt on the oil pan with a socket wrench. Let the oil drain into the drain pan and replace the drain bolt. Store the oil for later use.

2

Remove the mounting bolts for the oil pan with a socket wrench and disconnect the oil pan from the bottom of the engine. Detach the oil pick-up tube from the oil pump.

3

Remove the mounting bolts that fasten the oil pump to the bottom of the engine with a socket wrench. Detach the oil pump from the engine and discard the oil pump gasket.

4

Mount a new gasket to the new oil pump and mount the new oil pump to the bottom of the engine. Tighten the mounting bolts to 14 foot-pounds with a torque wrench. Attach the oil pickup tube to the oil pump.

5

Install the oil pan and fasten the mounting bolts with a socket wrench. Replace the oil that you previously drained from the engine.

The 1MZ-FE is a six-cylinder 3.0-liter engine with a dual overhead camshaft. Toyota made the engine from 1994 to 2006 and appears in a variety of Toyota vehicles from that period, such as the Camry. The 1MZ-FE uses a timing belt to keep the camshaft synchronized with the crankshafts. A timing belt is quieter than a timing chain but it also requires replacement at regular intervals, typically at least 60,000 miles.

Instructions

1

Disconnect any component needed to access the timing belt covers. Remove the mounting bolts on the lower timing belt cover with a socket wrench and disconnect the lower cover. Release the clamp for the engine wire protector on the rear timing belt cover and detach the engine protector. Remove the mounting bolts for the upper timing belt cover and disconnect the upper cover.

2

Disconnect the bolts for the right engine mounting bracket with a socket wrench and remove the bracket. Disconnect the the guide for the timing belt.

3

Turn the crankshaft clockwise to align the timing marks for the timing belt. The groove on the crankshaft pulley must align with the mark on the oil pump. The timing marks on the camshaft pulleys must align with their respective marks on the rear timing belt cover.

4

Remove the bolt for the crankshaft pulley with a socket wrench. Loosen the two bolts for the timing belt tensioner alternately to keep the timing belt aligned. Disconnect the timing belt tensioner and its dust protector. Detach the timing belt from the pulleys.

5

Align the mark on the front of the new timing belt with the dot on the crankshaft pulley. Align the installation marks on the timing belt with the marks on the camshaft pulleys. Install the timing belt onto the crankshaft pulley, water pump pulley, left camshaft pulley, No. 2 idler pulley, right camshaft pulley and No. 1 idler pulley in that order.

6

Press the push rod on the timing belt tensioner into its housing to align the hole in the push rod with the hole in the housing. Place an Allen wrench with a diameter of 0.05 inch into the holes to hold the push rod in place.

7

Attach the dust protector for the timing belt pensioner with a socket wrench and install the tensioner. Tighten the two mounting bolts for the timing belt tensioner alternately, and torque them to 20 foot-lbs. with a torque wrench. Remove the Allen wrench from the holes in the timing belt tensioner.

8

Turn the crankshaft clockwise to align the timing marks if necessary. Replace the guide for the timing belt. Tighten the bolt for the crankshaft pulley to 159 foot-lbs. with a torque wrench. Connect the right mounting bracket for the engine, and tighten its bolts to 21 foot-lbs.

9

Replace the upper cover for the timing belt and tighten its mounting bolts to 74 inch-lbs. with a torque wrench. Connect the engine wire protector to the rear cover of the timing belt and attach its clamp. Install the lower cover for the timing belt and tighten its mounting bolts to 74 inch-lbs. with a torque wrench. Install any remaining components you removed in Step 1 to access the timing belt covers.

Heres a good way to mess with your friends the next time youre sitting at the local watering hole: ask them if cars are alive. Cars these days are composed of both synthetic and biological materials, they can react to outside stimuli such as heat and cold, they can reproduce (with the aid of a human symbiote) and they can even age. Resurrecting a long-stationary engine usually isnt a matter of simply turning the key; its more like waking an old lady from a very long nap.

Basic Issues

The biggest problem with restarting an old engine has to do with oiling. Oil, and its nefarious cousin, sludge, are supposed to coat every interior surface of your engine to keep everything slick and working properly. Over time, liquid oil either drains down into the pan or gets trapped somewhere in the engine, and sludge dries into charcoal. Obviously, lubricating an engine with air, rust and charcoal isnt the smartest thing you can do where longevity is concerned.

Critter Patrol

You might be surprised as to exactly how much stuff can get into an engine when it sits for a while, especially if theres no air filter on it. Thoroughly inspect your air intake tube for leaves and critters, and pull the carburetor or throttle body off to inspect the inside of the intake. Trust it: Your engine will not be happy if the intake valves happen to suck a birds nest, field mouse or snake into the combustion chambers. Dont assume everythings kosher if the air filters in place, either; bugs can crawl up through the tailpipe, through open exhaust valves and nest in the cylinders or intake manifold.

Prime the Pump

As mentioned in Section 1, oil will eventually drain out of everywhere its supposed to be, including the oil pump. The prescribed solution is to manually prime the oil pump using a drill and a specialized pump-priming shaft. This may not be possible for some engines, though; the worst case scenario is that youll have to pull the oil pump, pack it with petroleum jelly and reinstall it. The jelly will allow the pump to create a vacuum and pull oil from the pan. You might get lucky, though. Try installing a mechanics oil pressure gauge and bump the starter; it might produce oil pressure without priming.

All Systems Go

Once youve primed the pump and have established oil pressure with a priming shaft, disconnect the ignition system -- if its still connected -- and bump the starter a few times to ensure that oil goes everywhere it should. Spin the engine over a few times to blow anything in the engine out of it, and listen for unexpected sounds from the engine. Stop if you hear any kind of rattling, puffing or any other sound the engine doesnt normally make. Reconnect the ignition and give it a shot. If the engine doesnt start right away, then its probably due to a lack of fuel pressure. If you have a mechanical pump, just keep cranking the engine for about 20 seconds or until it catches.