Fix It

You can reset the service engine light on your Chevrolet S10 by using an OBD-II scan tool. This on-board diagnostic tool can be purchased from your local auto parts retailer, although many such stores will check the code and reset the light at no charge.



The service engine light will turn on at regular intervals when your vehicle needs routine maintenance. After the maintenance is completed you will need to manually reset the light to turn it off. This is an easy adjustment that will only take a few moments.

Instructions

1

Look for the OBD II port located near the emergency brake on the lower dashboard. The OBD II port will be the receptive end for the connector on the OBD II scanner tool. Examine the connector end of the tool and the receptive port to make sure you have the correct port. Plug the OBD II scanner tool into the port.

2

Close the doors, roll up the windows and turn on the OBD II scanner tool. Put the key into the ignition and turn it to "on," but take care not to start the engine. Turning the vehicle on will start the electrical system which will power the OBD II scanner tool and allow it to do its job. The engine needs to remain off for the scanner to work.

3

Wait for the screen on the scanner to stop flashing. The service engine light will have turned off. Turn the key in the ignition to "off" and unplug the scanner.

4

Restart the engine and verify that the service engine light is still off on the instrument panel. Turn off the car.

Depending on what year and what motor you have in your GMC Sonoma will dictate the level of difficulty and the type of catalytic converter you need for replacement. Before the year 2000, the converter was connected to the exhaust system behind the front exhaust pipe in the popular 4.3 liter engine. In the year 2000, the catalytic converter became the front exhaust pipe which is much more challenging and difficult to remove and replace.

Instructions

How to Install a Catalytic Converter in a GMC Sonoma

1

Lift the GMC Sonoma all the up on the car lift. Load all the tools and the new converter into the tool cart/tray and wheel it over near you under the Sonoma, but out of your way. Put on the safety glasses.

2

Locate and remove the oxygen sensors. In the front Y-pipe converter application, there will be three oxygen sensors. In the older kind of Sonoma, there is only one oxygen sensor. Locate the plugs for the wire and unplug them using the flathead screwdriver to press in on the clip lock. Use the ratchet and oxygen sensor socket to remove the sensors. If need be, you may have to heat the pipe up a little with the torch to extract them. Allow them to cool down if you needed the torch.

3

Screw the oxygen sensor(s) into the new converter, but apply a light coat of anti-seize lubricant on the threads first. For the Y-pipe with three sensors, make sure to put the correct sensor into the correct port. Be caul not to overtighten to prevent stripping out the threads of the sensor(s).

4

Light the torch with the striker and heat up one nut on the manifold stud at a time (for the front Y-pipe converter). When the nut is cherry red, place the pneumatic gun, extension, swivel and socket onto it and remove the nut. If the converter is connected to the front pipe, cut the three nuts and bolts with the torch on both sides of the flange, then use the hammer and punch to knock the rest of the bolt out of the flange connection.

5

Cut the two or three nuts and bolts out of the rear flange connection on the converter using the torch. Cut the bolt on both sides of the flange and knock the rest of the bolt from the flange connection using the hammer and a punch. Be caul on the last bolt as the converter will separate from the exhaust system. Put on the gloves and remove the old converter.

6

Install the new catalytic converter starting with the inlet first (closest to the motor). Install the gasket(s) first and then thread on new manifold stud bolts for the Y-pipe converter or replace the nuts and bolts on the converter connected to the front pipe. Use a bolt head and washer on one side and a lock washer and nut on the other side of the flange.

7

Tighten the nuts on the manifold with the gun or tighten the nuts and bolts on the flange connection, using the gun on one side and holding the bolt steady with a hand wrench on the other.

8

Replace the gasket and hardware on the rear connection of the catalytic converter. Place the bolt head and flat washer on one side and the lock washer and nut on the other side of the flange connection. Tighten with the gun on the nut side and hold the bolt head with a hand wrench.

9

Plug the oxygen sensor wire(s) back into the plug(s).

10

Remove the tool cart and any other debris from under the Sonoma, lower the truck and start the engine up. Raise it back up and check for any possible exhaust leaks coming from the manifold, flange or oxygen sensor connections. Tighten as needed.

If you notice that your steering wheel is loose and sloppy when you drive down the road, you may have a worn upper ball joint and upper control arm. Unlike the case with lower ball joints, which require specialty tools that are quite expensive, a home mechanic can replace the upper control arm and ball joint in part of an afternoon.

Instructions

1

Loosen the lug nuts on both of the front tires. Do this before attempting to lift the vehicle off the ground or the tire will spin as you try to loosen them.

2

Raise the vehicle off the ground enough to lift the tires off the ground and place jack stands under the vehicle. Finish removing the tires once the vehicle is secure.

3

Remove the cotter pin from the upper ball joint using a needlenose pliers. You do not need to save the cotter pin; you will use a new one for installation.

4

Use the appropriate wrench to remove the castle nut at the top of the ball joint. Turn the wrench counterclockwise to remove the nut from the ball joint.

5

Separate the ball joint from the steering knuckle using a two-jawed puller and remove the upper control arm from the vehicle.

6

Install the new upper control arm assembly into the strut tower and connect the upper ball joint into the steering knuckle.

7

Install the tires onto the front of the vehicle and lower the vehicle to the ground.

8

Torque the nuts on the control arm and front wheels once the car is lowered to the ground. Torque the upper control arm to 47 foot-pounds. Next, tighten the castle nut to 32 foot-pounds and then tighten it enough beyond that point to install the new cotter pin. All of the wheel nuts should be tightened to 80 foot-pounds of pressure.

If your Saturn is experiencing failing fuel injectors, you may want to consider using a better quality gasoline. Symptoms of faulty fuel injectors include jerking movements while driving and loud knocking sounds upon acceleration. You will need to know how to properly relieve the fuel systems pressure before performing this repair procedure. Unless otherwise noted, some steps do not require tools.

Instructions

Removing the Fuel Rail and Fuel Injectors

1

Relieve the fuel system pressure by removing the fuel cap.

2

Disconnect the negative cable from the battery with a wrench.

3

Remove the vacuum hose from the fuel pressure regulator on the fuel rail. Unbolt the two mounting bolts with a socket wrench then remove the regulator.

4

Disconnect the air intake duct by detaching the connector from the intake air temperature sensor then removing the PCV hose from the duct. Unscrew and remove the hose clamps with a flat head screwdriver at both ends of the duct.

5

Remove the EVAP canister purge hose and loosen the clamp for the coolant hose from the hose guide. Remove the hose guide and separate the PCV hose from the valve cover. Set aside the hoses.

6

Unscrew and remove the two nuts from the fuel rail mounting studs with the socket wrench. Remove the engine wiring harness cover from the valve cover and push it aside.

7

Remove the fuel supply and return lines from the fuel rail by unscrewing the two line fittings with an open-end wrench. Take out the O-rings in the holes and discard them.

8

Unplug the connectors from the fuel injectors by pulling on their locks.

9

Unscrew and remove the two fuel rail mounting nuts with the socket wrench.

10

Pull out the fuel rail/injector assembly.

11

Free the injector retainers from the small lugs on both sides with a flat head screwdriver. Pull each injector out.

Installing the New Fuel Injectors

12

Install the new fuel injectors and secure them onto the fuel rail by fastening the retainers back onto the side lugs.

13

Lubricate the O-rings on each end of the injectors with clean engine oil. Insert the fuel rail/injector assembly back into the intake manifold.

14

Install the fuel rail mounting nuts and torque them to 89 inch-pounds with a torque wrench.

15

Reconnect each electrical connector to the fuel injectors. Check to make sure they are securely locked on by slightly wiggling them.

16

Insert the new O-rings into the fuel line holes. Install the supply and return fuel lines onto the fuel rail and tightly screw on their fittings with the open-end wrench.

17

Position the engine wiring harness cover onto the valve cover. Tighten the mounting nuts over the studs with the socket wrench.

18

Follow Steps 4 and 5 in Section 1 to reconnect the EVAP and PCV hoses and the air duct.

19

Install the fuel pressure regulator onto the fuel rail and tighten its two mounting bolts with the socket wrench. Reattach the vacuum hose to the regulator.

20

Reconnect the negative cable onto the battery with the wrench. Replace the fuel cap.

21

Start your Saturn and check for any fuel leaks.

Replacing the key cylinder on the steering column of your Jeep Wrangler may be necessary if damage has occurred to the tumblers or pins inside the cylinder. A replacement cylinder is available from the Jeep dealer and can be keyed to use your existing key for a fee. The cylinder can be swapped quickly and does not require a bunch of specials tools to complete.

Instructions

1

Sit in the drivers seat of your Jeep and insert the ignition key into the cylinder. Locate the hole in the bottom panel of the steering column directly below the cylinder.

2

Insert a small screwdriver or punch into the hole in the column and push the pin inside the hole up. Turn the key and cylinder to the "On" position then pull the cylinder straight out of the column. Remove the screwdriver or punch from the hole under the column.

3

Turn the key to the "Off" position then withdraw the key from the cylinder. Insert the key into the new cylinder and turn the key to the "On "position on the new cylinder.

4

Insert the cylinder and key into the column the rotate the key to the "OFF" position. Withdraw the key from the cylinder.

Acetone is a multi-use solvent that is generally considered safe for humans to use. The chemical is incorporated into paint supplies and cleaners used in the auto body painting and repair industry. Compounds used at every stage of the painting and cleaning process contain at least small amounts of acetone.

Cleaning Solution

Acetone is used in cleaning solutions applied to spray guns used in auto body work. The solvent is able to break down the harsh and potentially toxic chemicals used in auto body paints. Certain states, like California, are attempting to move away from sprays and solvents containing highly volatile organic compounds. According to a 2008 study prepared for the Cal/EPAs Toxic Substances Control, the best alternative cleaning solutions included a blend of glycol and acetone.

Finishing Solution

Finishing solutions are applied to auto body paint jobs to seal the paint and keep it from flaking or cracking due to weather or temperature conditions. These compounds typically contain acetone as an active ingredient that goes on clear so the cars paint job isnt obscured. In fact, acetone sealers usually add shine to the paint. The chemical is also used in window tints.

Paint Thinner

Auto body paints are combined with acetone to thin them. This allows the paint to apply evenly to the surface without pooling too much, which can affect drying times. The chemical dissolves when the paint is heated, leaving an even coat of paint. Acetone is also used as a pre-paint cleaner to remove any grit or surface grease on auto body parts that could affect the painting process and create dimples or raised areas.

The first Dodge Rams rolled out of the factory in 1981, and Dodge has continued to improve and redesign its heavy-duty pickup truck ever since. Dodge introduced the current generation of Rams in 2009. The 2010 Ram was available in several two-wheel-drive and four-wheel-drive trims in the 1500, 2500, 3500, 4500 and 5500 weight classes. However, the toe-in specs were the same for all trims of the Ram 1500. Likewise, all other trims of the 2010 Dodge Ram shared the same toe-in specs.

Toe

The toe of a wheel ers to the angle of the wheel in relation to the vehicles centerline. If the front of a wheel is angled inward toward the centerline, then the wheel has toe-in. If the front of a wheel angles outward away from the centerline, then the vehicle has toe-out. Most vehicles are designed for the wheels to toe in slightly. Toe is the most important alignment spec in terms of tire wear. If a wheel has the toe misaligned by just a fraction of a degree, it can significantly reduce the life of a tire. The toe is adjustable on the front ends of all trims of the 2010 Dodge Ram. It is not adjustable on the rear because the Rams come with a fixed rear axle. The specs provided below apply only to the 2010 Dodge Ram and should not be used on other model years, because alignment specs can change from year to year.

The 2010 Ram 1500

The same toe-in specs apply to all two-wheel-drive and four-wheel-drive trims of the 2010 Dodge Ram 1500, regardless of whether the truck came with 17-inch tires or 20-inch tires. The ideal toe-in setting is +0.1 degrees but it can vary by 0.36 degrees in either direction.

All Other Trims and Models of the 2010 Ram

All other trims of the 2010 Dodge Ram, including the Ram 2500, the Ram 3500, the Ram 3500 Heavy Duty Chassis-Cab, the Ram 4500 Heavy Duty Chassis-Cab and the Ram 5500 Heavy Duty Chassis Cab, came with the same toe-in specs. The specs were the same for Box Off and standard trims. The ideal setting for the toe-in is +0.2 degrees but it can range by 0.1 degree in either direction.

The Accord is a mid-size car manufactured by Honda since 1976 and is still in production as of 2010. The 1990 model has a four-cylinder, 2.2L engine with electronic fuel injection. This requires the fuel pump to deliver fuel to the injectors under high pressure. The fuel pump in the 1990 Honda Accord attaches directly to the fuel tank, so you must disconnect the fuel tank to replace the fuel pump.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the cable to the negative terminal of the battery with a socket wrench, and loosen the filler cap for the fuel tank. Locate the fuel pressure release valve on the fuel rail. Hold the banjo bolt for the release valve with a 6 mm closed wrench. Wrap a shop rag around the service bolt on top of the banjo bolt. Loosen the service bolt by one complete turn with an open-end wrench to relieve the pressure in the fuel system. Tighten the service bolt to 9 foot-pounds with a torque wrench.

2

Block the front wheels and raise the rear of the vehicle on jack stands. Loosen the drain bolt of the fuel tank and drain the fuel into a container approved for gasoline. Slide the clamps on the fuel hoses back and disconnect the fuel hoses from the fuel tank. Support the fuel tank with a floor jack and remove the nuts on the fuel tank retaining straps with a socket wrench. Lower the floor jack and remove the fuel tank from the vehicle. Disconnect the mounting bolts for the fuel pump with a socket wrench and remove the fuel pump from the fuel tank.

3

Install the new fuel pump onto the fuel tank ensuring that you seat it into its proper position. Tighten the mounting bolts evenly to a torque of 48 inch-pounds with a torque wrench. Connect the fuel tank and tighten the nuts on the restraining strap to 27 foot-pounds with a torque wrench.

4

Remove the service bolt on the fuel pressure regulator on the fuel rail. Disconnect the hose from the fuel pressure regulator and plug the open end of the hose. Attach a fuel pressure gauge to the pressure regulator.

5

Start the engine and note the reading on the fuel pressure gauge while the engine is idling. The fuel pressure in a 1990 Honda Accord should be in the range of 36 to 41 psi. Check for a clogged or pinched fuel return hose if the pressure is too high. Look for leaks in the fuel line, a faulty pressure regulator or a clogged fuel filter if the pressure is too low.

6

Wrap a shop rag around the fitting for the pressure gauge. Loosen the fitting slowly, until you can remove the pressure gauge. Place new washers on the service bolt and tighten it to 9 foot-pounds with a torque wrench.

The Ford Ranger is a compact pickup truck manufactured by the Ford Motor Company since 1983. The 1991 model has a choice of several engines, including a four-cylinder, 2.3-liter engine. The oil pump circulates oil through the engine to keep it lubricated. The oil pump in a 1991 Ford Ranger with a 2.3-liter engine is on the front of the engine and is driven by the timing belt.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the cable from the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench to prevent you from starting the engine inadvertently. Remove the timing belt from its pulley and detach the electrical connector for the camshaft position sensor on the camshaft.

2

Insert a pry bar through the hole in the oil pump sprocket to prevent it from turning. Remove the mounting bolt for the oil pump sprocket with a socket wrench and disconnect the sprocket.

3

Remove the mounting bolt for the camshaft position sensor with the socket wrench and disconnect the sensor. Remove the four mounting bolts for the oil pump and detach the oil pump from the front of the engine. Discard the gasket for the oil pump.

4

Clean the mating surfaces on the oil pump gasket with a shop rag and lubricate the new gasket with clean engine oil. Install the new oil pump and gasket and torque the mounting bolts for the oil pump to between 90 and 123 inch-pounds with a torque wrench.

5

Attach the camshaft position sensor and torque its mounting bolts to between 45 and 61 inch-pounds with the torque wrench. Install the oil pump sprocket and tighten its mounting bolts to between 30 and 40 foot-pounds.

6

Connect the electrical connector for the camshaft position sensor and install the timing belt. Reattach the cable to the negative battery terminal with the socket wrench. Add 8 ounces of engine oil to prime the oil pump.

A brake light switch, located on a bracket mounted directly in front of the brake pedal arm, controls your 1993 Nissan Quests brake lights. As the pedal arm pushes forward from the force of you stepping on the brakes, it depresses the switch and activates the brake lights. When the switch short circuits, it will either leave the lights always on or always off. In order to get the lights off, and return them to normal functionality, youll need to replace the faulty brake light switch. If you have mechanical aptitude and 25 minutes of time on your hands, you can fix this problem.

Instructions

1

Open the Quests front door. Adjust the drivers seat as far back as it will go in order to provide yourself with sufficient room to access the under-dash area.

2

Shine the work light in the drivers foot well so it illuminates the area at the top of the brake pedal arm. Retract the retaining tab on the brake light wiring pigtail with your thumb while gripping the pigtail with your foinger. Pull the pigtail off the brake light switch.

3

Unbolt the faulty brake light switch from the mounting bracket using a box wrench. Discard the faulty brake light switch.

4

Set the new brake light switch into the bracket. Bolt it in with the box wrench. Plug the wiring pigtail into the new brake light switch by hand.

5

Depress the brake pedal and have your helper verify the brake lights work before driving your Nissan Quest.

The PCV, or positive crankcase ventilation valve, on the 3.0-liter engine in your Ford Taurus requires attention from time to time. As the valve gets old, it will allow oil and vapors from inside the engine to leak out. The PCV system removes excess pressure and unburned gases from inside the engine, recirculating the gases through the engine to be burned and expelled out of the exhaust. This decreases the emissions from the tailpipe and allows your car to run cleaner.

Instructions

1

Open the hood of your Taurus and locate the PCV valve on the top of the valve cover. The PCV valve looks like an L-shaped fitting plugged into the top of the valve cover and has a large hose attached to it.

2

Grasp the PCV valve and pull it straight out of the valve cover grommet. Grasp the hose on the end of the valve and separate it from the valve. Lay the hose aside for now.

3

Discard the old PCV valve, then insert the end of the new valve into the end of the rubber vacuum hose that you removed from the old valve. You may need to twist it a little to get it to slide in place.

4

Push the new PCV valve into the grommet on the top of the valve cover. Make sure it seats completely in the grommet so oil does not blow past it. Close the hood.

The original factory stereo in a 1998 Buick Regal was available with two different options; an in-stereo tape player or an in-stereo compact disc player. Regardless of the option choice, the removal method is the same. Despite the excellent reliability of Buick factory radios, they do fail occasionally; leaving the driver and passenger with an eerily-silent interior. Replacement factory stereos are available in used condition from most salvage yards for a nominal fee or new from Buick dealerships for a much higher price.

Instructions

Removal

1

Open the drivers side door and remove the left instrument panel insulator by prying it free with a flat-head screwdriver.

2

Press the tilt lever on the steering column and adjust the steering wheel as far down as it will travel.

3

Remove the retaining screws on the lower leading edge of the ash tray panel cover. Pull the cover forward to disengage the retaining clips. Disconnect the ash tray lights electrical connector and remove the lower ash tray trim panel.

4

Open the passenger door. Disengage the instrument panel trim plates retaining tabs inside the air vents using a flat-head screw driver. Pry around the circumference of the instrument panel trim plate with a flat-head screwdriver until all of the retainers are disengaged. Pull the instrument panel trim plate away from the dashboard and set it aside.

5

Remove the screws holding the radio in place using a ratchet and metric socket. Pull the radio out and unplug the black antenna cable from the back of the radio. Disconnect the radios electrical connector and remove the radio from the vehicle.

Installation

6

Reconnect the radios antenna cable and electrical connector. Set the radio into position and reinstall the radio retaining bolts. Torque the bolts to 18 inch-pounds with a torque wrench.

7

Set the instrument panel trim plate into position and press down on it from left to right in order to seat the retaining clips. When the panel is properly seated there should be no large gaps between the panel and upper dash pad or radio face.

8

Reconnect the lower ash tray cover panel to the ash tray lights electrical connector. Set the panel into place and press down on it until the integrated locking tabs are fully-seated. Reinstall the lower ash tray panel retaining screws and torque them to 18 inch-pounds with a torque wrench.

9

Tilt the steering wheel back to a normal position. Reinstall the left instrument panel insulator. Turn on the ignition and test the radio.

The evaporator core, or heater core in a 2003 Dodge van is a radiator that contains hot coolant. The coolant circulates through the heater core when the heater is turned on, warming the interior of the van.

Instructions

1

Remove the negative battery cable with a socket wrench, and wait two minutes. This allows the capacitor in the airbag system to discharge, and prevents the airbag from deploying. Discharge the rigerant in the air conditioning system, and detach evaporators suction line jumper.

2

Remove the mounting screws that attach the heater to the air conditioning unit with a socket wrench. Push the mounting bracket and rigerant lines out of the way to gain access to the heater.

3

Detach the wiring harnesses for the fin sensing cycling clutch switch, blower motor resistor and blower motor relay. Cover the alternator with a shop cloth to prevent coolant from spilling on it. Drain the coolant in the radiator into a clean container for later use.

4

Disconnect the coolant hoses from the heater with a socket wrench. Remove the right headlight assembly, support assembly for the right radiator core, support panel for the right cowl grille and the grille panel. Disconnect the screws that attach the heater housing to the blower motor housing.

5

Disconnect the door motor link from the distribution duct in the passenger compartment. Use a socket wrench to remove the nuts in the glove compartment that fasten the heater to the dashboard.

6

Remove the stamped nut in the engine compartment that connects the heater housing to the dashboard with a socket wrench. Detach the heater housing from the housing for the blower motor. Pull the heater housing from the dashboard so that the door link clears the hole in the dash panel. Remove the heater housing from the vehicle.

7

Remove the pivot shaft nut from the blend-air door of the heater housing with a socket wrench. Pivot shaft nut. Detach the mounting flange boot and lever from the blend-air door. Disconnect the motor relay and its mounting bracket from the high-speed blower motor on the heater housing. Disconnect the screws from the top cover of the heater housing with a socket wrench, and remove the cover.

8

Remove the screw that fastens the tube support bracket for the heater core to the mounting boss. Remove the heater core from its housing.

9

Place the new heater core into its housing, and fasten its support bracket to the mounting boss with the retaining screw. Tighten the screw to 20 inch-pounds with a torque wrench.

10

Complete the installation of the new heater core by performing steps two through seven in reverse order. Attach the suction line jumper for the evaporator, and charge the air conditioner with rigerant. Connect the cable for the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench.

A sure sign of air conditioning problems is a lack of cool air coming out of the vents in your van or other vehicle. The problem might be with the compressor or motor, but it might just be a leak. The leak might not be your only issue, but it must be addressed before fixing any other components of the air conditioning system.

Instructions

1

Look in your vehicles owners manual to determine what type of rigerant your van uses.

2

Set the rigerant leak-detector to the appropriate setting. The setting varies based on the type of rigerant your vehicle uses. It is typically labeled CFC, HCFC or HFC, and must be set correctly to locate the source of the leaks.

3

Move the rigerant leak-detectors sensor along the air conditioning hoses and other components, looking for the indicators of a leak. The indicators vary in different rigerant leak-detectors, but are often represented by a buzzer or other sound.

4

Pay special attention to connection points. Move the sensor across all sides of the hoses and other components.

5

Mark each leak with masking tape. This allows the mechanic addressing the leaks to easily locate it.

The oxygen sensors in a 1996 Ford Explorer gauge the amount of unburned oxygen present in the exhaust system. A signal is sent to the engine management computer. The unburned oxygen relates to the fuel mixture, and the computer makes continuous adjustments as a result of these signals. There are always at least two sensors on each exhaust system. If the vehicle has dual exhaust, it will have four sensors.

Instructions

1

Connect the code scanner cable end to the OBD port under the dash on the left side of the steering column. The scanner is needed to determine which sensor is defective. Turn the ignition key to the "Run" or "On" position.

2

Press the key marked "Read." The computer will display a five-digit code. Record this code. Cross-erence this code with the code sheet that accompanies the code scanner to identify the faulty sensor. Turn the key off.

3

Raise the vehicle with the floor jack and place jack stands under the frame. Lower the vehicle onto the jack stands. Disconnect the electrical connector from the faulty sensor. If the code indicated that the number 1 sensor is faulty, it will be the one between the engine and the converter. If the number 2 sensor is faulty, it will be the sensor on or behind the converter.

4

Remove the faulty sensor using the 7/8-inch wrench. Turn the sensor counterclockwise to remove it.

5

Install the new sensor and tighten with the wrench. Connect the electrical connector. Lower the vehicle with the floor jack.

Your Toyota 4 Runner comes standard with a system diagnostic controller that contains a datalink connector. The connector can be plugged into an OBD II code reader that will read the trouble codes that the system diagnostic controller sends out. These codes will help you pinpoint the exact trouble with the Toyota. The codes can also be reset by the OBD II reader after repairs have been performed. The reader can be purchased from any auto parts store.

Instructions

1

Find the datalink connector under the drivers side dashboard, to the right of the steering wheel. Plug the OBD II reader into the datalink connector.

2

Put the key into the 4 Runners ignition and turn it to the "On" position, but dont start the vehicle.

3

Select the "Read Codes" command or similar type of command. Write down the numerical codes. Look the codes up in the readers manual for an exact description of the problem.

4

Unplug the OBD II reader from the datalink connector. Turn the ignition key to the "off" position. Take your Toyota to a mechanic to have repairs completed.

The Sebring was a series of mid-size cars that Chrysler produced from 1995 through 2010. The crankshaft in this vehicle has a harmonic balancer, like most modern combustion engines. The harmonic balancer is essentially a counterweight that reduces the vibrations that occur when the crankshaft rotates at high speed. The procedure for removing the harmonic balancer in a Chrysler Sebring requires you to lift the engine to access it.

Instructions

1

Remove the cable from the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench so you dont inadvertently start the engine during the removal process.

2

Place a wooden block on a floor jack to serve as a cushion. Position the floor jack under the oil pan and raise the jack to support the engine.

3

Disconnect the three vertical mount bolts on the right side of the engine with a socket wrench. Lower the floor jack and reposition it so you can raise the entire vehicle while getting access to the oil pan. Raise the vehicle with the floor jack and support it on jack stands.

4

Unscrew the lug nuts from the right front wheel with a lug wrench then pull off the wheel. Remove the splash shield for the drive belt with a socket wrench.

5

Place a wooden block on a screw jack, and position the screw jack under the oil pan. Support the engine with the screw jack and disconnect the front and rear through-bolts for the engine mount with a socket wrench.

6

Lower the engine with the screw jack and detach the accessory drive belts from their pulleys. Disconnect the mounting bolt for the harmonic balancer with a socket wrench.

7

Connect special tool 8454 to the harmonic balancer and attach insert 6827-A to the special tool. Pull the balancer from the crankshaft.

The 1997 Isuzu Trooper was available in three trim levels: S, LS and Limited. All three were equipped with a 3.2-liter V-6 engine that produced 190-horsepower and 195 foot-pounds of torque. The 1997 Isuzu Trooper engine utilizes three different belts to propel the belt driven engine parts. The tension on the belt is controlled by the swivel mounting bracket on the power steering pump. Adjusting the power steering pump will tighten the serpentine belt.

Instructions

Power Steering Belt Adjustment

1

Open the hood on the Trooper and set the hood prop. Position your body near the power steering pump, in the front of the engine compartment.

2

Loosen the power steering pump swivel mounting bolt on the bottom of the pump using a ratchet and socket. Loosen the power steering pump adjuster bolt on the adjuster plate. Push the power steering pump upward using a small pry bar between the pump housing and the engine block if needed. Tighten the adjuster bolt while maintaining pressure upward on the pump.

3

Tighten the adjuster bolt to 34 foot-pounds using a 1/2-inch-drive torque wrench and socket. Tighten the bottom pump swivel mounting bolt to 34 foot-pounds.

4

Step to the drivers side of the truck and start the engine. Press the gas pedal slightly to increase the engine rpm. If the belt still makes a noise, inspect the belt tensioner plate. If the adjuster bolt is at the limit of its adjustment and you still have a belt squeal, the belt needs to be replaced. If the belt noise still exists and you have room for more adjustment, tighten the belt by repeating steps 2 and 3, until the belt squeal goes away.

Alternator Belt Adjustment

5

Loosen the fixing bolt and the lock bolt on the alternator using a ratchet and socket.

6

Rotate the adjuster bolt in the side of the adjuster to add tension to the alternator belt. Tighten the fixing bolt to 16 foot-pounds and the lock bolt to 17 foot-pounds, using a 1/2-inch-drive torque wrench and socket.

7

Proceed to the drivers side of the Trooper and start the engine. If the alternator belt still produces a squealing noise and the adjuster is set at its maximum adjustment, the belt needs to be replaced. If the belt makes a noise and there is more room for adjustment, readjust the belt using steps 1 and 2.

Air Conditioning Compressor Belt Adjustment

8

Loosen the lock bolt on the tensioner assembly. Rotate the adjuster bolt to tighten the tension on the A/C compressor belt.

9

Tighten the lock bolt to 37 foot-pounds with a 1/2-inch-drive torque wrench and socket.

10

Proceed to the drivers side of the Trooper and start the engine. If the air conditioning belt makes a squealing noise, shut the engine off and readjust the belt tighter using steps 1 and 2. If the tensioner is set to its maximum outward position, the belt needs to be replaced.

The Zumo 550 GPS navigation system is made by Garmin for Harley-Davidson. Users and reviewers report the color LED screen is bright even in strong sunlight. The device comes preloaded with maps and directions to every Harley dealer in North America and it is intended to be mounted on the left handlebar next to the clutch lever, headlight dimmer and horn. The details of installation vary slightly between Dynas, Softails, touring models, V-Rods and Sportsters. It mounts on a Dyna as follows.

Instructions

1

Remove and discard the original equipment clutch lever clamp mounting screws with an Allen wrench. Retain the clamp.

2

Insert the new clamp mounting screws included with the Zumo kit into the GPS

mounting bracket. Insert the screw threads through the holes in the clutch lever clamp and into the clutch lever housing.

3

Adjust the hand lever position so it is comfortable. Tighten the new mounting screws to between 60 and 80 inch pounds of torque with an Allen socket and torque wrench.

4

Insert the mounting ball stud through the lower holes in the mounting ball clamp and the Zumo mounting bracket. Thread the lock nut onto the stud from behind the mounting bracket and tighten with an Allen socket and torque wrench to between 72 and 144 inch pounds of torque.

5

Insert the mounting plate screws included with the kit through the mounting plate and upper ball clamp so the screw heads face away from the rider. Place the upper ball clamp over the mounting ball so the holes align with those in the lower ball clamp.

6

Thread the mounting plate screws into the lower ball clamp. Sit on the motorcycle and adjust the mounting plate to the viewing angle that is most visible for you.

7

Tighten the mounting plate screws to between 36 and 60 inch pounds of torque with an Allen socket and a torque wrench.

8

Attach the cradle mount to the mounting plate with one of the flat head screws included with the Zumo mounting kit. Ensure that the cradle mount weather cap faces down when attached. Insert three more flat head screws through the remaining holes in the cradle. Tighten the screws with an Allen socket and a torque wrench to 20 inch pounds of torque.

9

Plug the round 4-pin DIN connector on the Zumo power harness into the front of the cradle and fasten securely with the mounting screws included in the mounting kit and an Allen wrench.

10

Route the Zumo power harness following the existing wiring from the left side handlebar switches to the center of the handlebar. Tie the harness in place with the cable straps included with the kit.

11

Unfasten the Allen nut that secures the seat tab to the rear fender with an Allen wrench. Remove the seat by pulling up and back.

12

Route the Zumo power harness following existing wiring through the triple tree and along the motorcycle frame to a general location under the seat. Fasten the harness to the frame with cable ties included with the kit.

13

Remove the hex nut from the ground screw with an open end wrench; the ground screw is located on top of the frame near the fuel tank. Attach a ring terminal from the kit to the ground screw.

14

Cut the black wire on Zumo wire harness with side blade pliers and crimp the ring terminal to the black wire with a wire crimping tool. Replace and tighten the ground screw hex nut.

15

Turn the handlebars all the way to the left and all the way to the right to ensure that none of the wire harness binds.

16

Grasp the electrical side cover on the left side of the bike (near the battery) with both hands and pull to remove. Slice open two inches of the main harness wrap with a sharp knife.

17

Cut the orange/white main harness power lead with side blade pliers. Splice the red Zumo wire to the two ends of the orange/white power wire with the blue, sealed, 2-into-1 splice connector included with the kit. Seal the connections with a wire crimping tool.

18

Replace the seat, tab washer and Allen bolt. Install the Zumo into the cradle mount following the instructions included in the GPS kit.

The Mercedes-Benz C class was once known for its reliability, but since the merger with Chrysler in the 90s, Mercedes as a whole has lost much of its engineering reputation. To that end, many of the 2001 C-class cars have endemic electrical and mechanical faults; the SRS fault being one of the leading issues. SRS stands for the supplemental restraint system and is supposed to pre-tighten the seat belts in the event of a crash, but in practice serves only to require periodic trips to the dealership to fix its faulty sensors.There is, however, a way around this.

Instructions

1

Buy a Mercedes-Benz code reader from a website, there are many available. Make sure the code reader has a 16-pin OBDII standard socket port. The 16-pin port is what the diagnostic port on the C320 uses. 32-pin readers can be used, but an adapter and rather complex software is needed. It is simpler and cheaper to just get a 16-pin reader. No batteries are needed, as the code reader draws power from the car itself.

2

Start the car and wait for the reader to flash the name of the code reader, then press the "Read" button. It will be the green button to the bottom left. It will flash the error code three times; after the third time, press the erase button. Depending upon the model of code reader, you may have to press "Erase" after every code or only once for all the codes.

3

Disconnect the code reader and turn off the car. Then turn the car back on and replug the reader to check to see if the erasure took. If it has, you are done; if it has not, you will need to replace the SRS sensors themselves, which only a Mercedes-Benz mechanic can do.