Fix It

Honda introduced the mid-sized complement to its compact Civic -- the Honda Accord in the 1976 model year. The Accord began its life as a feature-packed vehicle for its era sporting high-end elements, such as an AM-FM stereo, rear defroster and a remote hatch release. The 2001 Accord EX came standard with a wide array of features including an AM-FM stereo with a 6-disc CD player. An anti-theft system protected the stereo by locking the stereo from working when it lost power until you entered a five-digit code. If youve lost the code, contact the dealership with the radios serial number to get the code.

Instructions

Entering the Radio Code

1

Insert the key in the Accords ignition and turn it to the "Acc" or "On" position.

2

Turn the radio on by pressing the volume button, if needed.

3

Observe as "Code" appears on the radios display.

4

Enter the five-digit code from the radio code card the dealership provided with the vehicle, by pressing the corresponding preset buttons on the radio. If entered correctly, the radio begins to play. If the radio does not play, turn the Accord off and retry from Step 3. If you do not have the five digit code, see the section titled "Obtaining a Lost Radio Code."

5

Turn the Accord off.

Obtaining a Lost Radio Code

6

Turn the Accords ignition to the "Acc" or "On" position.

7

Press and hold the number 1 and 6 preset buttons and turn on the radio by pressing the volume button on the radio.

8

Observe as four digits appear on the radios screen, make note of these numbers. After five seconds, a second set of four numbers appears on the screen, write down these numbers. All eight numbers make up the radios eight-digit serial number.

9

Take the eight-digit serial number to a Honda dealership to obtain the radio code.

If you notice that your steering wheel is loose and sloppy when you drive down the road, you may have a worn upper ball joint and upper control arm. Unlike the case with lower ball joints, which require specialty tools that are quite expensive, a home mechanic can replace the upper control arm and ball joint in part of an afternoon.

Instructions

1

Loosen the lug nuts on both of the front tires. Do this before attempting to lift the vehicle off the ground or the tire will spin as you try to loosen them.

2

Raise the vehicle off the ground enough to lift the tires off the ground and place jack stands under the vehicle. Finish removing the tires once the vehicle is secure.

3

Remove the cotter pin from the upper ball joint using a needlenose pliers. You do not need to save the cotter pin; you will use a new one for installation.

4

Use the appropriate wrench to remove the castle nut at the top of the ball joint. Turn the wrench counterclockwise to remove the nut from the ball joint.

5

Separate the ball joint from the steering knuckle using a two-jawed puller and remove the upper control arm from the vehicle.

6

Install the new upper control arm assembly into the strut tower and connect the upper ball joint into the steering knuckle.

7

Install the tires onto the front of the vehicle and lower the vehicle to the ground.

8

Torque the nuts on the control arm and front wheels once the car is lowered to the ground. Torque the upper control arm to 47 foot-pounds. Next, tighten the castle nut to 32 foot-pounds and then tighten it enough beyond that point to install the new cotter pin. All of the wheel nuts should be tightened to 80 foot-pounds of pressure.

The outer tie rods ends on the 1995 Honda Accord connect the steering system to the integral knuckles of the front wheels. Wear and tear on the ball sockets of the outer tie rods will eventually weaken them, causing them to become loose. This symptom will give a slight to major back-and-forth movement of the tire and compromise the tire wear and the steering of the vehicle. While replacing the outer tie rod is not overly difficult, the car should have a front-end alignment after any major steering component has been replaced.

Instructions

1

Apply the parking brake and loosen the lug nuts on the wheel one-half turn counterclockwise, using the breaker bar and a 19 mm wrench.

2

Hoist the vehicle up with the car jack and support the Accord onto a jack stand. Remove the lug nuts and wheel.

3

Remove the cotter pin from the ball shaft of the outer tie rod with a pair of cutting dikes or a set of needle-nose pliers.

4

Make a mark on the threads of the inner tie rod with a permanent marker where the outer tie rod lock nut ends. This mark will keep the front-end alignment close to its original position until an alignment can be performed on the vehicle.

5

Hold the base of the outer tie rod with one wrench and turn the lock nut on the threaded shaft of the inner tie rod counterclockwise just enough to break it free.

6

Loosen the castle nut from the ball shaft of the tie rod end, at the knuckle, using the breaker bar and metric socket. Loosen the nut until it covers the top threads of the ball shaft.

7

Strike the castle nut on the ball shaft with a hammer until the ball socket of the tie rod separates from the integral knuckle. Remove the castle nut and allow the outer tie rod to drop down from the knuckle.

8

Unscrew the outer tie rod from the threads of the inner tie rod and then unscrew the lock nut from the inner tie rod.

9

Thread the new lock nut, supplied with the replacement outer tie rod, onto the threads of the inner tie rod up to the permanent marker mark. Thread the replacement outer tie rod onto the inner tie rod up to the lock nut, but align the outer tie rod so the ball shaft is standing in an upward position.

10

Place the ball shaft of the tie rod through the integral knuckle. The ball shaft of the replacement tie rod will be stiff and hard to move by hand. If necessary, place the old castle nut on the threads of the new tie rod ball shaft and gently tap it to manipulate its angle until it aligns to the hole of the knuckle. Remove and discard the old castle nut.

11

Thread the replacement castle nut, supplied with the replacement outer tie rod, onto the threads of the ball shaft and tighten with the breaker bar and a metric socket. Tighten the nut securely and align the notches of the castle nut to the pre-drilled hole in the top of the ball shaft.

12

Insert the replacement cotter pin, supplied with the replacement outer tie rod, through the ball shaft hole and notches of the castle nut. Bend the ends of the cotter pin over the top of the nut and ball shaft with the cutting dikes or needle-nose pliers.

13

Tighten the lock nut on the inner tie rod threads to the base of the outer tie rod, using the two metric wrenches---one to hold the base of the outer tie rod and the other to tighten the nut to the base.

14

Replace the wheel and lug nuts. Snug the lug nuts tightly to the knuckle and then lower the Accord to the ground.

15

Tighten the lug nuts in a crisscross pattern, using the torque ratchet set at 80 foot-pounds and a 19 mm socket.

The Accord is a mid-size car manufactured by Honda since 1976 and is still in production as of 2010. The 1990 model has a four-cylinder, 2.2L engine with electronic fuel injection. This requires the fuel pump to deliver fuel to the injectors under high pressure. The fuel pump in the 1990 Honda Accord attaches directly to the fuel tank, so you must disconnect the fuel tank to replace the fuel pump.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the cable to the negative terminal of the battery with a socket wrench, and loosen the filler cap for the fuel tank. Locate the fuel pressure release valve on the fuel rail. Hold the banjo bolt for the release valve with a 6 mm closed wrench. Wrap a shop rag around the service bolt on top of the banjo bolt. Loosen the service bolt by one complete turn with an open-end wrench to relieve the pressure in the fuel system. Tighten the service bolt to 9 foot-pounds with a torque wrench.

2

Block the front wheels and raise the rear of the vehicle on jack stands. Loosen the drain bolt of the fuel tank and drain the fuel into a container approved for gasoline. Slide the clamps on the fuel hoses back and disconnect the fuel hoses from the fuel tank. Support the fuel tank with a floor jack and remove the nuts on the fuel tank retaining straps with a socket wrench. Lower the floor jack and remove the fuel tank from the vehicle. Disconnect the mounting bolts for the fuel pump with a socket wrench and remove the fuel pump from the fuel tank.

3

Install the new fuel pump onto the fuel tank ensuring that you seat it into its proper position. Tighten the mounting bolts evenly to a torque of 48 inch-pounds with a torque wrench. Connect the fuel tank and tighten the nuts on the restraining strap to 27 foot-pounds with a torque wrench.

4

Remove the service bolt on the fuel pressure regulator on the fuel rail. Disconnect the hose from the fuel pressure regulator and plug the open end of the hose. Attach a fuel pressure gauge to the pressure regulator.

5

Start the engine and note the reading on the fuel pressure gauge while the engine is idling. The fuel pressure in a 1990 Honda Accord should be in the range of 36 to 41 psi. Check for a clogged or pinched fuel return hose if the pressure is too high. Look for leaks in the fuel line, a faulty pressure regulator or a clogged fuel filter if the pressure is too low.

6

Wrap a shop rag around the fitting for the pressure gauge. Loosen the fitting slowly, until you can remove the pressure gauge. Place new washers on the service bolt and tighten it to 9 foot-pounds with a torque wrench.

There comes a point in time when everyone that owns a car will have to replace the headlights. In most cases, replacing the headlight bulb is as simple as opening the engine compartment and replacing the bulb, but with the 2003 Honda Accord, its a little different. Access to the headlights on this model is through the wheel wells.

Instructions

1

Turn the steering wheel in the opposite direction of the bulb that you want to change. For example, if you want to change the right headlight, turn your wheels to the left.

2

Pull the electrical connection off the old bulb by looking into the wheel well from the outside of the car. The electrical connection resembles a plug.

3

Remove the bulb by rotating it counterclockwise turn.

4

Remove the new bulb from the package but do not touch the glass. Put on gloves to avoid skin oils contacting the bulb.

5

Place the new bulb in the location where you removed the old one and rotate it clockwise turn to lock it in place.

6

Plug the electrical connection back into the bulb and make sure it locks into place.

7

Repeat the process for any other bulb that needs to be changed then turn on the headlights to test them.

The 2005 Honda Accord uses different light bulbs in each headlight assembly for the low beams and high beams. Changing a low beam bulb involves a different procedure than the high beam bulb. To ensure the correct bulb is being replaced, its best to locate the faulty bulb before purchasing and replacing it in order to obtain the correct part. The bulbs look the same but are intended for different uses. The low beam bulbs are on the outer edge of the headlight assembly, and the high beam bulbs are on the inner edge.

Instructions

Low Beams

1

Start the engine and turn the steering wheel in the opposite direction of the headlight being replaced. Turn it all the way to the right if replacing the drivers side low beam or all the way to the left if replacing the passengers side low beam. Turn the engine off and ensure the headlight switch is in the "Off" position.

2

Remove the two retaining clips holding the inner fender splash cover with a flat head screwdriver. Pop the center pin of the retaining clip upward then pull the clip assembly out of the fender splash cover.

3

Pull the fender splash cover away from the fender and bumper with one hand and reach in with the other hand to grasp the socket of the low beam headlight bulb.

4

Disconnect the wire harness plug from the headlight bulb by squeezing in on the sides to unlock it then pull it off the socket of the low beam headlight bulb.

5

Rotate the bulb socket a 1/4 turn counterclockwise to align its retaining tabs to the release grooves of the headlight assembly then remove the bulb.

6

Hold the replacement 9006 low beam headlight bulb by its socket to avoid touching the glass bulb. Oils and perspiration in skin will damage the bulb.

7

Align the retaining tabs of the bulb socket to the release grooves in the headlight assembly. Push slightly inward and rotate the socket a 1/4 turn clockwise to lock it in place. Reconnect the wire harness plug and test the headlight before replacing the retaining tabs of the fender splash cover.

High Beams

8

Open the hood and remove the two retaining clips from the air intake cover on the passengers side high beam with the screwdriver as noted in Step 3. For the drivers side high beam replacement, proceed to Step 2.

9

Detach the wire harness connection from the high beam bulb by squeezing the sides to unlock it then pulling it out of the bulb socket.

10

Rotate the socket of the headlight bulb a 1/4 turn counterclockwise to remove it from the headlight assembly.

11

Install the replacement 9006 headlight bulb (again, do not touch the glass bulb section) by reversing the removal procedure.

12

Reconnect the wire harness plug to the headlight bulb socket and test the headlight before replacing the air intake cover and retaining clips for the passengers side.

When the clutch pedal on your Honda Accord becomes soft, theres a good chance you are experiencing a faulty clutch master cylinder. If left unchecked at this point, it is only a matter of time before the master cylinder completely fails and you will be unable to shift your car. If you have a couple of hours and minimal tools, you can replace the clutch master cylinder at home.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the cable from the negative terminal on your cars battery. This is an essential first step in any car repair due to the risk of electrical shock.

2

Pull the cotter pin located about halfway up the clutch pedal assembly. While you are under the dashboard, you also need to remove the pedal pin from the yoke.

3

Locate the master cylinder on the engine compartment side of the firewall. Turn the bolts counterclockwise to remove them from the firewall so you can remove the faulty master cylinder.

4

Remove the hydraulic lines from the master cylinder. Make sure you have rags on your work surface so you minimize the mess from leaking clutch fluid.

5

Place the hydraulic lines on the new master cylinder and install the master cylinder onto the firewall. Turn the bolts clockwise to properly tighten them.

6

Insert the pedal pin into the yoke and the cotter pin into the clutch pedal assembly.

7

Fill the fluid reservoir with clutch fluid but do not put the cap on the reservoir. Press the clutch pedal several times to expel any air pockets from the hydraulic lines and top off the reservoir with more fluid. After you have bled the lines, replace the cap and tighten it.

8

Reconnect the battery to complete the repair process.