Fix It

Replacing the exhaust manifolds on your Ford F-150 truck is a complicated process that varies greatly depending not only on the year of the truck but also the type of engine. The manifolds are connected to the cylinder heads and the catalytic converters. You should talk with your mechanic before attempting this type of repair.

Instructions

V6 Engines

1

Disconnect the trucks negative battery cable, then raise the truck and securely support it on jack stands.

2

Disconnect the electrical connectors to the oxygen sensor.

3

Remove the nuts connecting the exhaust Y-pipe to the manifolds. Apply penetrating oil to the nuts and studs, if necessary.

4

Remove the engine lifting bracket. For the drivers side manifold, remove the dipstick tube from the oil pan by removing its nut and pulling it out. For the passengers side manifold, disconnect the EGR pipe from the manifold.

5

Disconnect the six mounting nuts for the exhaust manifold. Separate the manifold from the cylinder head and remove the old gaskets.

6

Place the replacement exhaust manifold with new gaskets onto the cylinder head. Install the mounting nuts with a torque wrench, tightening the center nuts first, followed by the front pair and the rear pair.

7

Reconnect and install the other components in the reverse order of removal--this can include the engine lifting bracket, oil dipstick tube, EGR pipe and oxygen sensor electrical connector.

8

Lower the truck and reconnect the battery cable.

V8 Engines

9

Disconnect the negative battery cable, raise the truck and support it on jack stands. Remove the inner splash shield from the fender well.

10

Disconnect the EGR pipe at the EGR valve and exhaust manifold if you are removing the drivers side manifold on a 4.6 liter engine. On a 5.4 liter, remove the front and rear heated oxygen sensors and the exhaust support bracket.

11

Remove the starter if youre removing the passengers side manifold. Also remove the stabilizer bar on a 5.4 liter engine.

12

Disconnect the catalytic converter assemblies from the manifold on a 5.4 liter engine by removing their nuts, then move the assemblies to the rear of the truck.

13

Remove the mounting nuts from the exhaust manifold and remove it. Remove the studs from the cylinder heads and discard them and the nuts.

14

Clean the mating surface on the cylinder heads, using a gasket scraper to remove any carbon deposits. Install new studs into the cylinder heads.

15

Place the exhaust manifold over the studs with new gaskets. Install new mounting nuts, working from the rear to the front and alternating between the top and bottom rows.

16

Install the remaining components in the reverse order of removal and lower the truck. If you need to reconnect the EGR pipe, apply a small amount of anti-seize compound on the threads.

Car air conditioner systems have multiple parts and if any of them malfunction your air conditioner may stop working properly. If you find your cars air conditioning system is not producing the cool air it used to, there are a number of simple ways to investigate the cause of the problem. Most air conditioner malfunctions occur due to a lack of rigerant, sometimes caused by leaks in the air conditioning unit.

Instructions

Check the Refrigerant Level

1

Turn off your car, then open the hood and locate your air conditioning unit. Air conditioning units are located at various places depending on the type of car you own. If you have trouble finding it, consult your car manual. The unit will have a compartment for the rigerant and a fan system.

2

Connect the AC pressure gauge to the side port of the air conditioning unit. Turn on the car and allow the engine to run for a few minutes.

3

Depress the accelerator. If the AC pressure gauges meter dips down when you accelerate, there is not enough rigerant in the vehicle.

Check for Leaks

4

Visually inspect the air conditioning unit with your car running. Check to see if the compressor is cycling and if the fan belt seems work.

5

Inject a small amount of auto-safe florescent dye into the air conditioning unit. This florescent dye is available at most auto parts stores and allows you to see any leaks or damage in the air conditioner unit. Follow the directions for insertion on the can.

6

Visually inspect the air conditioner unit for any holes or leaks in the pipes, tubes or compressors. The florescent dye will cover any holes or cracks, making them easy to spot.

7

Fix cracks or holes before adding more rigerant to prevent pollution and damage to your vehicle.

The first thing you can do to replace the catalytic converter in your Toyota Tercel is forget about the cheaper universal fit catalytic converter at the auto parts stores. Although this may seemingly save you money for the part, youre going to have to buy adapters or figure out how to make that universal fit converter fit like a direct fit converter. A direct fit converter for a Tercel will have a two-point flange on either side and will do just as its label describes: fit directly. In the long run it will save you time, money, and will work better for your Tercel since it was specifically designed for it.

Instructions

1

Lift the Toyota Tercel on a car lift all the way up.

2

Put on the cutting glasses, and light the acetylene torch using a striker. Cut the bolts and nuts from the catalytic converter from the flange(s) on the converter side. This way you will not incur damage to the flanges bolted to the converter flanges. Cut the bolt heads (with the torch) or the nuts flush to the converter flange.

3

Turn the torch off, switch over to safety glasses, and knock out the bolts from the converter side of the flanges using the hammer and a long stemmed punch. If they do not punch through, you may need to relight the torch and cut into the bolt hole a little deeper.

4

Remove the old converter.

5

Pick the old gaskets off of the pipe flanges on both side using a pick or awl.

6

Clean the surface of the flat part of the pipe flanges on both sides using an angled die grinder with a sanding disk.

7

Place the new gaskets onto the small pipe outlet protruding from the pipe flanges.

8

Check the exhaust flow of the new catalytic converter. It will be stamped on the shell or shields of the converter and be easy to see. There will be an arrow pointing in the direction of the exhaust flow or an A and B marking. A would indicate towards the front of the motor, and B would indicate towards the back of the Tercel.

9

Attach the converter flanges to the pipe flanges and place the bolts into the flanges (in any direction) in this fashion: bolt head with a flat washer through the flanges, then a lock washer and nut.

10

Tighten the bolts and nuts holding one end with a wrench and tightening with an air ratchet. Tighten each bolt a little bit, switch to the next one, and continue this pattern until all four nuts and bolts have seated the flanges tight together.

11

Remove tools and lower the Tercel on the lift. Start it up, raise it up again, and check for any possible leaks coming from the flange connections. If so, tighten the bolts some more.

The General Motors Oil Life Monitor System first appeared in GM trucks in the 2000 model year. The system measures the remaining service life of an engines motor oil based on several factors, including the number of engine starts, miles driven at operating temperature and total hours of engine operation. The Oil Life Monitor System determines intervals between oil changes based on operating conditions. You should reset the oil light to initiate a service interval after you change the oil.

Instructions

1

Turn the ignition key to the "on" position.

2

Depress the accelerator pedal three times to the floor in rapid succession within five seconds. Turn the ignition key off and wait for ten seconds.

3

Turn the ignition key to the "Start" position, and start the engine. The Oil Life Monitor system has been reset.

The water pump in a 1990 Ford F-150 Lariat keeps the engine cool by circulating water and coolant throughout the engine. A malfunctioning water pump can cause the engines temperature to increase, even when the radiator has sufficient coolant. This may eventually result in permanent damage to the engine. The pump attaches to the timing chain cover on the front of the engine block. You will need to drain the cooling system when replacing the pump.

Instructions

1

Position a sealable container under the radiator drain hole and remove the drain plug. Wait for the coolant to drain into the container. Seal the container for later use. Replace the drain plug.

2

Remove the mounting bolts for the cooling fan shroud with a socket wrench. Disconnect the shroud from the radiator. Detach the radiator hose, bypass hose and heater hose from the water pump. Disconnect the drive belt and the cooling fan assembly, including the fan spacer and pulley.

3

Remove the alternator mounting bolts with a socket wrench, and move the alternator out of the way to access the water pump. You may also need to remove the power steering pump bracket if the vehicle is so equipped. Disconnect the mounting bolts for the water pump and detach the pump from the timing chain cover. Discard the water pump gasket.

4

Apply a thin layer of sealer to the new gasket. Install the new pump and gasket to the timing chain cover. Tighten the mounting bolts for the water pump to 18 foot-pounds with a torque wrench.

5

Repeat steps two and three in reverse order to complete the installation of the new water pump. Replace the coolant in the radiator.

The 1998 Dodge pickup uses a crank sensor to feed detailed information to the power train control module to indicate the current position of the crankshaft as it rotates, as well as the crankshafts revolutions per minute (rpm). The crankshaft position sensors data determines when to fire the fuel injectors. On gasoline engines, it also determines when to fire the ignition coil to light the fuel-air mixture. Intermittent problems with the crankshaft position sensor cause hesitations and stalling of the vehicle. A continuous error with the crank sensor will prevent the vehicle from starting. Testing the crankshaft position sensor requires access to the sensor and plug.

Instructions

Gasoline Engines

1

Set the parking brake of the 1998 Dodge pickup truck. Pull the hood release handle. Open the hood.

2

Disconnect the negative battery cable. Loosen the 10 mm retaining nut on the battery cable clamp using a 10 mm wrench. Pry the battery cable off the negative battery post by twisting side to side by hand. The negative battery post has a "-" label next to it.

3

Stand on the passenger side of the truck. Place the work light next to the exhaust manifold as close as possible to the firewall.

4

Lean over the fender. Extend the telescoping inspection mirror in between the back of the cylinder head and the firewall.

5

Angle the mirror to inspect the edge of the transmission bell housing where it meets the engine block. A steel bracket secured by two 10 mm bolts with a three-wire harness retains the crankshaft position sensor, which reads gaps in a ring of the flywheel.

Diesel Engines

6

Open the hood of the 1998 Dodge pickup, and disconnect the negative battery cable using a 10 mm wrench.

7

Lie down face up on an automotive creeper, and slide under the drivers side of the vehicle just behind the tire, taking the wrench and the trouble light with you.

8

Hang an automotive trouble light underneath the vehicle.

9

Remove the three 10 mm bolts retaining the starter to the transmission bell housing using a 10 mm wrench. Remove the starter.

10

Look directly between the engine block and the location from which you removed the starter. The crankshaft position sensor is a black plastic sensor with an aluminum retaining bracket held in place by a single 10 mm bolt. The crank sensor has a three-wire harness plugged into it.

Honda introduced the mid-sized complement to its compact Civic -- the Honda Accord in the 1976 model year. The Accord began its life as a feature-packed vehicle for its era sporting high-end elements, such as an AM-FM stereo, rear defroster and a remote hatch release. The 2001 Accord EX came standard with a wide array of features including an AM-FM stereo with a 6-disc CD player. An anti-theft system protected the stereo by locking the stereo from working when it lost power until you entered a five-digit code. If youve lost the code, contact the dealership with the radios serial number to get the code.

Instructions

Entering the Radio Code

1

Insert the key in the Accords ignition and turn it to the "Acc" or "On" position.

2

Turn the radio on by pressing the volume button, if needed.

3

Observe as "Code" appears on the radios display.

4

Enter the five-digit code from the radio code card the dealership provided with the vehicle, by pressing the corresponding preset buttons on the radio. If entered correctly, the radio begins to play. If the radio does not play, turn the Accord off and retry from Step 3. If you do not have the five digit code, see the section titled "Obtaining a Lost Radio Code."

5

Turn the Accord off.

Obtaining a Lost Radio Code

6

Turn the Accords ignition to the "Acc" or "On" position.

7

Press and hold the number 1 and 6 preset buttons and turn on the radio by pressing the volume button on the radio.

8

Observe as four digits appear on the radios screen, make note of these numbers. After five seconds, a second set of four numbers appears on the screen, write down these numbers. All eight numbers make up the radios eight-digit serial number.

9

Take the eight-digit serial number to a Honda dealership to obtain the radio code.

The mid-size Mazda 6 was in its second generation as of 2010, having grown a bit over the previous generation of the car. There are seven trim models, with the more top-of-the-line variations equipped with niceties like alloy wheels, Bluetooth connectivity and xenon headlights. Most Mazda 6 cars, though, will have halogen bulbs. Exercise caution when changing halogen bulbs, as they are easily damaged if scratched or dropped.

Instructions

High-Beam Headlight

1

Turn off the ignition and the headlights.

2

Open the hood and remove the bolts from the coolant reservoir. Using your wrench, turn the bolts counterclockwise to remove.

3

Disconnect the bulbs electrical connector. Press on the connector tab and pull downward to remove.

4

Turn the bulb socket counterclockwise to remove the bulb. Then insert a new halogen bulb, turning clockwise to install.

5

Re-install the coolant reservoir.

Low-Beam Headlights

6

Turn off the ignition and the headlights.

7

Move the steering wheel to the right if youre replacing the left-hand light and vice-versa.

8

Open the hood and remove the bulbs plastic container screws. Turn counterclockwise to remove the six screws.

9

Turn the bulb cover counterclockwise.

10

Detach the electrical connector of the bulb by pulling it to the rear.

11

Pull downward and away to remove the bulb from the spring.

12

Remove the adapter from the bulb and attach a new bulb onto the adapter.

13

Insert the bulb into the bulb socket, connecting the electrical connections.

14

Insert the bulb cover, fastening the screws clockwise.

The flashers, also called blinkers or turn signals, as well as the hazard lights on the Ford F-150 pickup truck are all controlled by one simple relay module. If you have a front or rear flasher that isnt working, chances are you need to replace a simple five-pin relay module located on your steering column. The part costs very little, and replacing it will take just a few minutes of your time.

Instructions

1

Use a flat-head screwdriver to gently pry the clam-shell door open. The door is located under the instrument panel on the top of the steering column between the instrument panel and the steering wheel.

2

Remove the door and set it in a safe place.

3

Remove the blue five-pin relay from the column by pulling it gently from the plug.

4

Remove the screw from the top of the relay.

5

Replace the screw on the top of the relay.

6

Replace the relay with the new one (part number F65B-13350-AA). Plug the new relay in where you removed the old one.

7

Close the clam-shell door by lining it up and pressing down until it snaps in place.

Installation of a new catalytic converter on your Jeep Liberty will improve the engine performance of your Jeep. If the converter becomes plugged it can over heat or limit the engines ability to breathe by limiting the flow of exhaust out of the engine. The converter is an important part of the exhaust system and while they are expensive to replace, they are necessary for the engine to run properly. Be sure to allow the exhaust to cool if the Jeep has been running before you start working on it. The pipe and converter get very hot when the engine is operating.

Instructions

1

Locate the front mounting flange from the front exhaust pipe for the catalytic converter. There are two bolts that secure the flange from the converter to the flange on the pipe.

2

Position the catalytic converter so the two flanges line up, insert the gasket between the flanges and insert the retaining bolts. Install two nuts on the mounting bolts and tighten them with a socket and ratchet or wrench.

3

Insert the mounting rod on the converter into the hanger under the cross member located near the center of the converter. This hanger is a rubber hanger that the mounting rod slides into.

4

Slide the tail pipe onto the output pipe on the rear of the converter and install the band clamp. Tighten the clamp with a socket and ratchet until it is tight but do not over tighten it or you will crush the pipe.

5

Start the engine and check for leaks in the exhaust system. If you find a leak, tighten the clamp or bolts needed to tighten up the pipes and close the leak.

The original catalytic converter on the 1988 Chevy K2500 was a flat, broad, pellet-filled component. Chevy used this style converter until the mid 1990s. The bottom of the converter featured a fill plug that would often erode from exposure and leak the ceramic pellets out from inside the shell. While replacement plugs were available, most aftermarket companies replaced the converter with a canister-shaped direct-fit converter with an internal ceramic honeycombed substructure.

Instructions

1

Park the 1988 Chevy K2500 on a level surface, turn the engine off and apply the parking brake.

2

Put on the safety glasses and crawl under the passengers side of the vehicle (behind the front tire) with the shop light or a flashlight.

3

Follow the exhaust tubing on the passengers side to the engine connection. The front pipe of the K2500 features a Y-pipe connected to both the drivers side and the passengers side of the engine.

4

Follow the Y-pipe back to the next component behind it. It will either be a large, broad, flat component or a round canister with an external heat shield spot-welded to the outer shell. This component is the catalytic converter. Depending on the size of the wheel base of the K2500, behind the converter there may be a small to medium length connector pipe leading to the muffler and the tailpipe. The connector pipe routes over the rear axle and out toward the rear bumper, all on the passengers side.

The crankshaft position sensor -- also known as the CKP sensor --detects crankshaft position and rotation on the 2005 PT Cruiser. The sensor relays this information to the electronic control unit and helps determine ignition and fuel injection timing. Wear or damage to the crankshaft position sensor can lead to poor performance or even a non-running condition. The sensor is above the front motor mount so some disassembly is required to replace it.

Instructions

1

Set the parking brake and chock the rear wheels. Turn the ignition switch to the Off position.

2

Jack the front of the vehicle up. Support the vehicle using jack stands.

3

Locate the sensor on the front of the engine just below the starter. Locate the bending strut and structural collar just below the sensor.

4

Remove the five mounting bolts from the strut, using a ratchet and socket. Remove the strut from the engine. Remove the three remaining bolts from the collar, using a ratchet and socket. Move the power steering hose aside and then remove the collar from the engine.

5

Lift up on the locking tab on the sensor electrical connector. Unplug the electrical connector from the sensor.

6

Wipe the surrounding area using a clean rag to remove any dirt or debris that may find its way into the sensor hole.

7

Remove the sensor retaining bolt, using a ratchet and socket. Pull the sensor out of its hole.

8

Lubricate the O-ring on the new sensor with clean engine oil. Insert the new sensor in the hole and push it in with a slight twisting motion. Align the sensor mount with the bolt hole and install the retaining bolt. Tighten the bolt to 80 inch-pounds, using an inch-pound torque wrench and socket.

9

Install the electrical connector onto the sensor terminal. Ensure that the terminal lock snaps into position.

10

Hold the collar in its position between the transmission and the engine oil pan. Move the power steering hose into position below the collar. Install the collar-to-oil pan bolt through the forward hose support and collar bolt hole and then tighten it finger tight.

11

Place the bending strut in its position and start the upper strut-to-transaxle bolt. Do not tighten the bolt at this time.

12

Insert the lower strut-to-transaxle bolt through the strut and collar and start it. Do not tighten the bolt at this time.

13

Install the strut-to-block bolt on the passenger side corner of the strut and then tighten it finger tight.

14

Insert the collar-to-oil pan bolt through the rear power steering hose support and rear collar hole and then tighten it finger tight.

15

Tighten the three collar-to-transaxle bolts to 75 foot-pounds, using a foot-pound torque wrench and socket.

16

Install the remaining two strut-to-engine block bolts. Tighten the remaining five bolts to 45 foot-pounds, using a foot-pound torque wrench and socket.

17

Remove the jack stands and lower the vehicle using a jack.

The outer tie rods ends on the 1995 Honda Accord connect the steering system to the integral knuckles of the front wheels. Wear and tear on the ball sockets of the outer tie rods will eventually weaken them, causing them to become loose. This symptom will give a slight to major back-and-forth movement of the tire and compromise the tire wear and the steering of the vehicle. While replacing the outer tie rod is not overly difficult, the car should have a front-end alignment after any major steering component has been replaced.

Instructions

1

Apply the parking brake and loosen the lug nuts on the wheel one-half turn counterclockwise, using the breaker bar and a 19 mm wrench.

2

Hoist the vehicle up with the car jack and support the Accord onto a jack stand. Remove the lug nuts and wheel.

3

Remove the cotter pin from the ball shaft of the outer tie rod with a pair of cutting dikes or a set of needle-nose pliers.

4

Make a mark on the threads of the inner tie rod with a permanent marker where the outer tie rod lock nut ends. This mark will keep the front-end alignment close to its original position until an alignment can be performed on the vehicle.

5

Hold the base of the outer tie rod with one wrench and turn the lock nut on the threaded shaft of the inner tie rod counterclockwise just enough to break it free.

6

Loosen the castle nut from the ball shaft of the tie rod end, at the knuckle, using the breaker bar and metric socket. Loosen the nut until it covers the top threads of the ball shaft.

7

Strike the castle nut on the ball shaft with a hammer until the ball socket of the tie rod separates from the integral knuckle. Remove the castle nut and allow the outer tie rod to drop down from the knuckle.

8

Unscrew the outer tie rod from the threads of the inner tie rod and then unscrew the lock nut from the inner tie rod.

9

Thread the new lock nut, supplied with the replacement outer tie rod, onto the threads of the inner tie rod up to the permanent marker mark. Thread the replacement outer tie rod onto the inner tie rod up to the lock nut, but align the outer tie rod so the ball shaft is standing in an upward position.

10

Place the ball shaft of the tie rod through the integral knuckle. The ball shaft of the replacement tie rod will be stiff and hard to move by hand. If necessary, place the old castle nut on the threads of the new tie rod ball shaft and gently tap it to manipulate its angle until it aligns to the hole of the knuckle. Remove and discard the old castle nut.

11

Thread the replacement castle nut, supplied with the replacement outer tie rod, onto the threads of the ball shaft and tighten with the breaker bar and a metric socket. Tighten the nut securely and align the notches of the castle nut to the pre-drilled hole in the top of the ball shaft.

12

Insert the replacement cotter pin, supplied with the replacement outer tie rod, through the ball shaft hole and notches of the castle nut. Bend the ends of the cotter pin over the top of the nut and ball shaft with the cutting dikes or needle-nose pliers.

13

Tighten the lock nut on the inner tie rod threads to the base of the outer tie rod, using the two metric wrenches---one to hold the base of the outer tie rod and the other to tighten the nut to the base.

14

Replace the wheel and lug nuts. Snug the lug nuts tightly to the knuckle and then lower the Accord to the ground.

15

Tighten the lug nuts in a crisscross pattern, using the torque ratchet set at 80 foot-pounds and a 19 mm socket.

The first Dodge Rams rolled out of the factory in 1981, and Dodge has continued to improve and redesign its heavy-duty pickup truck ever since. Dodge introduced the current generation of Rams in 2009. The 2010 Ram was available in several two-wheel-drive and four-wheel-drive trims in the 1500, 2500, 3500, 4500 and 5500 weight classes. However, the toe-in specs were the same for all trims of the Ram 1500. Likewise, all other trims of the 2010 Dodge Ram shared the same toe-in specs.

Toe

The toe of a wheel ers to the angle of the wheel in relation to the vehicles centerline. If the front of a wheel is angled inward toward the centerline, then the wheel has toe-in. If the front of a wheel angles outward away from the centerline, then the vehicle has toe-out. Most vehicles are designed for the wheels to toe in slightly. Toe is the most important alignment spec in terms of tire wear. If a wheel has the toe misaligned by just a fraction of a degree, it can significantly reduce the life of a tire. The toe is adjustable on the front ends of all trims of the 2010 Dodge Ram. It is not adjustable on the rear because the Rams come with a fixed rear axle. The specs provided below apply only to the 2010 Dodge Ram and should not be used on other model years, because alignment specs can change from year to year.

The 2010 Ram 1500

The same toe-in specs apply to all two-wheel-drive and four-wheel-drive trims of the 2010 Dodge Ram 1500, regardless of whether the truck came with 17-inch tires or 20-inch tires. The ideal toe-in setting is +0.1 degrees but it can vary by 0.36 degrees in either direction.

All Other Trims and Models of the 2010 Ram

All other trims of the 2010 Dodge Ram, including the Ram 2500, the Ram 3500, the Ram 3500 Heavy Duty Chassis-Cab, the Ram 4500 Heavy Duty Chassis-Cab and the Ram 5500 Heavy Duty Chassis Cab, came with the same toe-in specs. The specs were the same for Box Off and standard trims. The ideal setting for the toe-in is +0.2 degrees but it can range by 0.1 degree in either direction.

Replacing glow plugs in the Jeep Libertys 2.8-liter diesel engine is similar to changing spark plugs except there is no firing order to worry about. The glow plugs thread into the cylinder head just below the intake manifold on your Liberty and have a single wire connected to the top, providing seven volts of electricity to the plug. The plug heats up the cylinders on your diesel engine to allow faster start-ups when the engine is cold.

Instructions

1

Open the hood of your Liberty and locate the negative battery cable on the top of the battery. The battery sits on the drivers side of the engine compartment, right behind the drivers-side headlight assembly. Loosen the clamp bolt on the cable end with a wrench and remove the cable from the battery, isolating it from the terminals while you are working.

2

Locate the glow plug in question on the side of the cylinder head. The cylinder head is at the top of the engine assembly, running front to back along the engine block. Grasp the wire at the top of the glow plug at the boot and pull it straight off the plug. Lay the wire aside.

3

Place a socket over the glow plug, attach a ratchet, and turn the plug counterclockwise. Pull the plug out of the cylinder and discard it.

4

Caully insert the new glow plug in the cylinder head. Tighten the glow plug to 110 inch-pounds with a torque wrench. Snap the wiring harness connector onto the top of the glow plug. Repeat the process for the remaining glow plugs until you have replaced all that are defective.

5

Install the negative battery cable on the negative battery terminal. Tighten the clamp bolt with a wrench, making sure it is secure. Do not over-tighten it or you may damage the cable end or terminal. Close the hood of your Jeep.

Replacing the fuel/water separator on the 2.8-liter diesel engine in your Jeep Liberty is not something that you need to do regularly, but when the time comes, a new separator assembly is available from the Jeep dealer. The fuel/water separator is important, as it works to remove moisture and sediment from the diesel fuel before it enters the fuel rails and engine. Water can damage the engine and cause it to run poorly or not at all.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the negative cable from the battery, using a wrench to remove the retaining bolt. Isolate the negative cable from the battery while you work.

2

Locate the fuel/water separator on the firewall of your Liberty. It is to the left of the engine, directly in front of the driver. Locate the two electrical connections on the front of the separator. Depress the locking tab on the connectors and remove them from the separator body. Lay the wiring connections aside.

3

Remove the hose clamp on the large fuel line at the front of the separator using a flat-head screwdriver. Pull the hose off the fitting and push it aside. Locate the second fuel line on the passengers side of the separator. Remove the hose clamp from the line with a flat-head screwdriver and pull it off the fitting.

4

Remove the two bolts that secure the separator to the firewall of the Jeep, using a socket and ratchet. Pull the assembly off the firewall. Position the new separator on the firewall and install the retaining bolts. Tighten the bolts to 63 in.-lbs. with a torque wrench.

5

Connect both fuel lines to the fittings on the new separator. Attach the hose clamps and tighten them with a flat-head screwdriver. Do not overtighten them or you will damage the rubber hose and it will fail prematurely.

6

Attach the wiring harness connectors to the front of the assembly. They are different so you cannot plug them in wrong. Push the connectors in until they snap into place.

7

Reconnect the negative cable to the battery. Reattach the retaining bolt and tighten it with a wrench.

A faulty drain cock or petcock on a 2007 Jeep Liberty could result in a radiator leak, an overheated engine and costly repairs. The petcock is a small valve located on the lower left side of the radiator. The petcock threads into the face of the radiator tank and replacing it is a fairly simple task that requires few tools. Make sure to drain the radiator before you remove the petcock to avoid spilling coolant.

Instructions

1

Open the hood of your Jeep and remove the radiator cap from the radiator. Set the cap aside then slide a jack under the front axle and raise the Jeep off the ground. Place a set of jack stands under the Jeep to support it.

2

Slide a section of rubber tubing onto the drain cock and place a drain pan below it. Open the drain cock with a wrench and allow the coolant to drain from the system. Spin the drain cock out of the radiator with a wrench and thread the new on in place, tightening it with the wrench. Make sure the drain is closed.

3

Raise the front of the Jeep off the jack stands then remove the stands from under the truck. Remove the drain pan from under the truck and lower the truck to the ground.

4

Fill the radiator with coolant then place the cap on the radiator. Open the pressure bottle and fill it with coolant until it reaches the full line on the bottle. Start the engine and turn the heat selector to on. Allow the Jeep to run until it reaches normal operating temperature, about five to 10 minutes.

5

Recheck the coolant level in the pressure bottle and add coolant until it reaches the full mark again. Continue checking and filling the bottle until the level no longer falls with the engine running.

6

Recheck the coolant level after several days of normal driving. Add additional coolant as needed at that time.

Vehicle lifter noise on start-up may be caused by several factors, depending on the type of oil filter, oil, lubrication system, mileage, mechanical condition and even required adjustments of your vehicle. Whatever the cause, there are some adjustments you can perform to quiet the lifters on start-up. Always start your diagnosis with the most common cause. In most cases, you will be able to fix your noisy lifters replacing a minimum of components or performing a few maintenance tasks.

Instructions

1

Take your car for a 20 minute drive on the highway to bring the engine up to operating temperature. Return to your driveway, open the hood and pull out the engine oil dipstick. Check the oil level and condition. If the oil is a quart lower from the required level or your engine is running on dirty, old oil, this may cause your lifters to tick. Add new enough oil to bring the amount to the correct level or replace the oil as necessary.

2

Make sure you are using an oil filter equipped with an anti-drainback valve (ADBV). This valve prevents the oil moving around the top of the engine from flowing back into the oil pan after shutting off the engine. This ensures that the engine, including your lifters, have oil during start up. A lifter that has provided your engine with miles of service will definitely benefit from a check-valve oil filter.

3

Take your vehicle to an auto shop and have them check engine oil pressure. If oil pressure is starting to drop, a worn out oil pump, clogged oil pickup screen, restricted oil pickup tube or oil galleries may be behind this problem.

4

Ask your mechanic to inspect the condition of the oil passages inside the engine. If you have failed to replace the engine oil at the recommended manufacturer intervals for some time, the inside of the engine might be covered with oil residue and gum, preventing proper oil flow. Take your vehicle to an auto shop and have them check oil pressure and engine mechanical condition.

5

Check the valve clearance in your engine. On some vehicle models, manufacturers advice adjusting valve clearance at recommended maintenance intervals. This will prevent excessive part wear and valve train noise. Consult your car service manual or call your local dealer, if necessary.

The 1999 Mercury Cougar has two engine options. The base engine is a 2.0-liter, in-line four-cylinder, which produces 130 horsepower. The optional engine is a 170-horsepower 2.5-liter V-6. No matter the engine size, the 1999 Cougar has an on-board diagnostic (OBD) computer with an OBD-II port.

Location

The OBD-II port is sometimes difficult to find on certain vehicles. However, the Cougars OBD-II diagnostic port is easy to find. It is located on the drivers side, under the dashboard and to the drivers side of the steering wheel.

Function

The OBD-II port is where an OBD-II scanner can be plugged in. This scanner gathers all of the information from the vehicles computer and displays it on a screen. Some computers even have testing functions for certain components.

History

On-board diagnostics started back in 1982 in California when the California Air Resources Board began creating regulations that required all vehicles to have an on-board diagnostic system -- now known as OBD-I -- to sense emission system failures. In 1996 the Federal Government followed suit by making the more-universal OBD-II required on all vehicles.

Replacing the windshield wiper blades for a Volkswagen 2006 Jetta can easily be done by the owner. If the wiper blades are damaged, dirty or worn, they will not properly clean the windshield which can become a driving hazard. Checking the condition of your wiper blades the same time as you change the oil is a good rule of thumb. There are different styles of wiper blades for the 2006 Jetta that can be purchased from most auto parts stores or a Volkswagen dealership.

Instructions

1

Insert and turn the ignition key to the "On" position but do not start the engine.

2

Press the wiper blade lever to the "On" position and turn the ignition key to the "Off" position. This will position the wipers on the windshield in order to access the blades.

3

Pull the wiper blades away from the windshield into an upright position.

4

Press the blade release button on the tip of the wiper arm.

5

Remove one blade at a time by pulling down on the wiper.

6

Slide the replacement blade onto the wiper arm until it clicks into place. Lower the wiper arm back onto the windshield.

7

Insert and turn the ignition key to the "On" position but do not start the engine.

8

Press the wiper blade lever to the "On" and "Off" position then turn the ignition key to "Off." This will place the wipers back in their normal operating position.