Fix It

The General Motors Oil Life Monitor System first appeared in GM trucks in the 2000 model year. The system measures the remaining service life of an engines motor oil based on several factors, including the number of engine starts, miles driven at operating temperature and total hours of engine operation. The Oil Life Monitor System determines intervals between oil changes based on operating conditions. You should reset the oil light to initiate a service interval after you change the oil.

Instructions

1

Turn the ignition key to the "on" position.

2

Depress the accelerator pedal three times to the floor in rapid succession within five seconds. Turn the ignition key off and wait for ten seconds.

3

Turn the ignition key to the "Start" position, and start the engine. The Oil Life Monitor system has been reset.

The Eldorado was a line of luxury cars made by Cadillac from 1953 to 2002. The 1994 model is an eighth generation Eldorado, which includes the 1992 through 2002 models. This vehicle has an oil pump that circulates oil throughout the engine to provide lubrication to the moving parts. The only engine choice for a 1994 Cadillac Eldorado is an 8-cylinder 4.6-liter Northstar engine. The oil pump for this engine is attached to the front of the crankcase, and is accessible from the engine compartment.

Instructions

1

Allow the vehicle to sit overnight without running to ensure the engine is cold. Hot oil can cause severe burns.

2

Remove the screws that attach the front cover of the oil pump to the front of the engine with a socket wrench. Disconnect the front cover from the engine.

3

Loosen the three bolts that connect the oil pump to the engine with a socket wrench. Remove the oil pump and its spacer from the engine.

4

Mount the oil pump spacer to the new oil pump. Fasten the new oil pump to the engine with the three mounting bolts. Tighten the mounting bolts with a socket wrench.

5

Connect the front cover for the oil pump to the engine with the retaining screws. Tighten the screws with a socket wrench. Start the engine and check for oil leaks.

The Ford Ranger is a compact pickup truck manufactured by the Ford Motor Company since 1983. The 1991 model has a choice of several engines, including a four-cylinder, 2.3-liter engine. The oil pump circulates oil through the engine to keep it lubricated. The oil pump in a 1991 Ford Ranger with a 2.3-liter engine is on the front of the engine and is driven by the timing belt.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the cable from the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench to prevent you from starting the engine inadvertently. Remove the timing belt from its pulley and detach the electrical connector for the camshaft position sensor on the camshaft.

2

Insert a pry bar through the hole in the oil pump sprocket to prevent it from turning. Remove the mounting bolt for the oil pump sprocket with a socket wrench and disconnect the sprocket.

3

Remove the mounting bolt for the camshaft position sensor with the socket wrench and disconnect the sensor. Remove the four mounting bolts for the oil pump and detach the oil pump from the front of the engine. Discard the gasket for the oil pump.

4

Clean the mating surfaces on the oil pump gasket with a shop rag and lubricate the new gasket with clean engine oil. Install the new oil pump and gasket and torque the mounting bolts for the oil pump to between 90 and 123 inch-pounds with a torque wrench.

5

Attach the camshaft position sensor and torque its mounting bolts to between 45 and 61 inch-pounds with the torque wrench. Install the oil pump sprocket and tighten its mounting bolts to between 30 and 40 foot-pounds.

6

Connect the electrical connector for the camshaft position sensor and install the timing belt. Reattach the cable to the negative battery terminal with the socket wrench. Add 8 ounces of engine oil to prime the oil pump.

Motor oil insures your cars engine runs properly and provides you with reliable transportation. The oil should be changed according to the manufacturers instructions for optimal performance and longevity.

Function

Fresh motor oil is an amber color. Black oil is oil that has collected dirt and impurities from your engine. The purpose of motor oil is to lubricate the moving parts of the cars engine so it can perform as specified. When oil is black, it means its viscosity (the ability to flow as a liquid) is impaired. It will not flow and lubricate as easily and the engines moving parts will suffer more wear from daily activities and wear out more quickly.

Solution

All car manufacturers have different standards for motor oil. The optimal amount of time to change oil is usually measured in miles. The common rule of thumb used to be 3,000 miles, but many auto manufacturers have increased that to 7,500 miles. For best results, er to your cars operation manual or contact your auto manufacturer or a qualified and licensed mechanic. It is best to er to these sources as it differs for each car.

Considerations

Black oil indicates engine health. Black oil generally means the engine requires an oil change. Engines also can use up oil as they age or are used more frequently. If the car is driven more than usual, changing the oil before the mileage limit specified by the car manufacturer is recommended.

The Nissan Xterra is a compact sport utility vehicle intended for off-road use. Nissan began production of this product line in 2000, and the most recent generation of the Xterra includes 2005 and later models. The only engine available for the Nissan Xterra is a six-cylinder 4.0-liter engine, which has the oil pump on the front of the crankcase. You may need to replace the oil pump if your engine is showing unexpected wear, even though the oil is at its proper level.

Instructions

1

Remove the cable on the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench so that you dont start the engine during the procedure. Place a container under the oil drain in the crankcase and open the oil drain. Allow the oil to drain into the container and replace the plug for the oil drain.

2

Place a second container under the drain for the radiator and remove the drain plug for the radiator with a socket wrench. Wait for the coolant to drain into the container and replace the radiator drain plug.

3

Remove the mounting bolts for the upper and lower oil pans with a socket wrench. Detach both oil pans from the crankcase.

4

Disconnect the mounting bolts on the case for the front timing chain with a socket wrench. Remove the front timing chain.

5

Remove the mounting bolts for the oil pump cover with a socket wrench and detach the oil pump cover. Disconnect the bolts for the oil pump and remove the oil pump.

6

Install the new oil pump and fasten the mounting bolts with a socket wrench. Attach the oil pump cover. Connect the front timing chain and install the cover for the front timing chain.

7

Add a layer of sealant to the mounting surfaces of the oil pans and install the oil pans. Allow the sealant to cure for 30 minutes before you add oil.

8

Fill the crankcase with the proper amount of oil and coolant. Start the engine and check for oil and coolant leaks.

Chrysler manufactures trucks under the Dodge brand, including compact trucks, midsize trucks and full-size pickups. The procedure for changing the oil pump on a Dodge truck depends upon the type of engine in the truck. Dodge trucks have a variety of engines, with a six-cylinder, 3.9-liter engine being typical for a 96 Dakota. The oil pump for this engine is attached to the rear bearing cap, which is accessible from beneath the vehicle.

Instructions

1

Detach the cable from the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench. Raise the vehicle with a jack and support it on jack stands. Place a drain pan below the oil drain. Remove the plug for the oil drain with a socket wrench. Allow the oil to drain into the pan and replace the drain plug.

2

Disconnect the mounting bolts for the oil pan with a socket wrench. Remove the drain pan and discard the gasket. Remove the screen for the oil pump with a socket wrench. Disconnect the bolts that fasten the oil pump to the rear main bearing cap. Detach the oil pump from the vehicle.

3

Pour clean engine oil into the intake of the new oil pump. Turn the driveshaft of the oil pump manually until the oil exits the pressure port of the oil pump. Continue turning the driveshaft until no air bubbles are present in the oil.

4

Hold the oil pump against the rear main bearing cap and tighten the mounting bolts to 130 foot-pounds with a torque wrench. Connect the screen to the oil pump. Mount a new gasket to the oil pan and install the oil pan.

5

Lower the vehicle and connect the cable to the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench. Check the vehicle for oil leaks.

The American Petroleum Institute, or API, provides consumers with information on engine oil disposal, certifies the quality of oil manufacturers product and oversees oil safety and oil recycling. The API Base Oil Interchangeability Guidelines ensure engine oil manufacturers create a quality product.

Function

Because base oils have varying physical and chemical properties, API designed guidelines that engine oil manufacturers follow to create a standard of engine oil performance. The guidelines allow varying engine oil blends to work interchangeably without affecting engine performance.

Base Stock Types and Categories

Base stock defines lubricants created by a single manufacturer using the same lubricant specifications or formula each time. Base stock slate defines a product line of identical base stock lubricants with varying viscosities. Base oil defines API-licensed oil. The base stocks are then categorized one of five ways defined in section E.1.3 of the API guidelines.

Guidelines

API receives third-party engine testing data for each oil product. API then compares the data against engine testing requirements, specified in section E.2 of the Interchangeability Guidelines, before certification. In some cases, a single interchange base stock does not require engine testing.

The Yahama V-Star 1100 is a cruiser-style motorcycle produced by Yamaha. As part of the routine maintenance of the motorcycle, users should check their engine oil level often, as operating the bike with too little oil can cause serious damage to the engine. The Yamaha V-Star 1100 does not have a dip-stick. Instead, it has a small window, or sight glass, located on the left side of the engine. This allows owners to check the oil level quickly, without the need for a rag to clean the dipstick.

Instructions

1

Turn off the Yamaha V-Star 1100s engine, then put the kickstand down to secure the motorcycle in an upright position.

2

Locate the small, round, glass window, on the bottom of the left side of the motorcycle.

3

Locate the two hash marks on the glass, one near the top of the glass, and one near the bottom. The top hash mark indicates the maximum amount of oil that should be in the engine, and the bottom mark indicates the minimum amount of oil that should be in the engine.

4

Bring the bike to a vertical position, to ensure an accurate reading. While the motorcycle is straight up, look at the glass and determine where the oil falls in relation to the two marks. The oil level should be between the two hash marks. If the oil level is below the minimum line, add oil before starting the engine again, and if it is above the maximum line, you should remove oil prior to starting the engine. Add oil a little at a time, and check the glass each time, to avoid over-filling.

There may be several reasons why oil is blowing out of your oil dipstick tube. There can be engine malfunctions or user mistakes. You may want to remove some of the oil because of overfill that occurred during an oil change. Whether your engine is blowing out oil by itself or if you are trying to remove some of the excess fluid to avoid this blowout, there is an explanation for these situations and a way to rectify the problem.

Instructions

Accidental Blowout

1

Overfill your engine with oil and leave it that way if you want an accidental blowout. When you are changing your oil or adding oil because of low fluid levels, you may accidentally put in more than the optimal level. Always add oil in small quantities until the dipstick reads the appropriate level.

2

Forgetting to put the dipstick back into the tube is a sure way to blow oil out of the dipstick tube when the engine is running and there is pressure. Just remember to put the dipstick in all the way after you are done checking the oil to avoid oil blowout.

3

Clog your positive crankcase ventilation valve. Check to see if it is clogged by looking at the valve cover on the drivers side of the vehicle. Remove the valve and shake it to see if it rattles to indicate it is fine. While the engine is running, place your finger over the end of it to test for suction; suction means the PCV valve is not the problem for oil blowout.

Removing Oil from Dipstick Tube

4

Locate the drain plug. Usually, it is located on or near the oil pan. Position the oil drip pan below the drain plug.

5

Turn the plug counterclockwise until the oil starts to drain out. Let only a little bit out, then tighten the plug again in a clockwise direction.

6

Check the oil level on the dipstick. Release more oil if there is still too much oil and it is above the indicator line. This is the only safe way to remove excess oil from the dipstick. You do not necessarily want the oil blowing everywhere as it may get messy, smelly and smoky when the engine warms up.

The purpose of the oil pump in a car is to circulate oil through the engine as a lubricant between moving parts. The Volvo S70 is a mid-size luxury sedan that was manufactured by Volvo from 1998 to 2000. It most often had a five-cylinder 2.4-liter engine with the oil pump attached to the front of the engine. The replacement of the oil pump on a Volvo S70 requires the removal of additional engine components to access the oil pump.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the negative battery cable with a socket wrench to prevent the engine from starting. Remove the stabilizer brace for the engine. Disconnect the expansion tank and servo reservoir.

2

Remove the accessory drive belt by turning the belt tensioner clockwise with special tool 999 7109. Disconnect the front cover for the timing belt with a socket wrench.

3

Loosen the lug nuts on the right front wheel with a lug wrench. Raise the vehicle with a jack and support it on jack stands. Remove the right front wheel.

4

Disconnect the upper cover for the camshaft with a socket wrench and remove the timing belt. Disconnect the center nut for the vibration damper and remove the vibration damper. Remove the pulley for the crankshaft timing gear and the front crankshaft seal.

5

Remove the mounting bolts for the oil pump with special tool 999 5455. Install the new oil pump and press it with the crankshaft nut to fully seat the oil pump. Tighten the mounting bolts to 88 inch-pounds with tool 999 5455 and a torque wrench.

6

Complete the oil pump installation by performing steps one through four in reverse order. Tighten the center nut for the vibration damper to 133 foot-pounds with a torque wrench. Tighten the bolt for the engine bracket bolt to 59 foot-pounds. Start the Volvo S70 engine and check for oil leaks.

Plastic is a very commonplace material used for just about everything. Because so much is made out of plastic, several companies have built their empire by providing various methods for repairing it. The most important element in plastic oil tank repair is to know exactly what kind of plastic your oil tank is made of. This allows you to purchase the proper patching materials. There are multiple ways of repairing your plastic oil tank, which method you select depends mostly on how much you care about appearance versus ease of use.

Instructions

1

Repair your plastic oil tank with a plastic repair kit. Plastic repair kits are available at any hardware store and are relatively inexpensive. These kits contain epoxy, fiberglass cloth, application brush and sandpaper. Simply sand down the crack or hole, cover it with the fiberglass cloth, prepare the epoxy and brush it over the fiberglass to create a patch. These patches appear rough at first, but you can sand them down for a more aesthetically pleasing finish once the epoxy has set. Additionally, you can paint the patch to match the rest of the tank. Plastic repair kits are great if youre not too bothered with a rough finish.

2

Repair your plastic oil tank with a plastic sealing tape. Sealing tapes are available at any hardware store and are great for an easy fix for smaller cracks and holes. Sealing tapes adhere well to any plastic type and can maintain seal in temperatures as low as -40 degrees to 180 degrees Fahrenheit. Simply apply the sealing tape over the small hole or crack to solve your problem. Note: sealing tape gets the job done, but you may have to replace it from time to time. Sealing tape is perfect for a person thats looking for a quick and easy fix to a small problem.

3

Repair your plastic oil tank with a speed tip plastic welder. Speed tip welding is a technique that heats up a plastic rod while pushing a soft bead of plastic out of the tip, similar to soldering. Although speed tip welding offers the most precise plastic repair, it is also the most challenging and expensive plastic repair method. Speed tip welding is also the best method for repairing a crack or a hole in a hard to repair area such as a corner. Speed tip welding is perfect for hobbyists and professionals who really value the aesthetic appearance of the repair work.

When bolts are repeatedly removed and tightened, their heads may round out and become stripped. Tightly-secured vehicle oil pan bolt heads may also become stripped if you use the wrong type of wrench to remove them. An effective way to remove a stripped oil pan bolt is by using a small pipe wrench. Pipe wrenches, which feature slightly angled jaws and sharp teeth ideal for grasping, are designed to be used on round objects. Replace the oil pan bolt after the old stripped one has been removed.

Instructions

1

Park the vehicle on a level work surface and apply the emergency brake. Remove the ignition keys to prevent someone from starting the vehicle while youre preforming maintenance under it.

2

Locate the oil pans stripped drainage bolt, which is typically located at the lowest point of the oil pan. Shine a light, such as a flashlight or maintenance lantern, under the vehicle to illuminate the part.

3

Affix a small pipe wrench to the oil pan drainage bolt. Make small adjustments to the pipe wrench as needed so that it fits snugly over the bolt.

4

Grasp the handle and turn the pipe wrench in a counterclockwise direction. Position yourself to pull on the pipe wrench handle rather than push it. Pulling on the wrench will give you more leverage and strength to remove the bolt.

5

Replace the stripped bolt with the correct replacement part.

Ironhead Sportsters, like your 1980 1000cc model, are notorious for overheating. Oil coolers work by providing additional oil in your system and an additional surface from which heat can radiate. Almost any oil cooler will work on an Ironhead engine as long as you understand the oil line routing on the motorcycle. In a 1980 Sportster with an after-market inline, as well as a drop-in, oil filter, the oil pump is fed by gravity from the oil tank. Oil pressure from the pump pushes the oil to the oil filter in-port. The oil then flows under pressure from the filter out-port to the oil cooler in-port, and from the cooler out-port to the oil tank return.

Instructions

1

Drain the oil from the oil tank through the drain hose into a pan. Use a screwdriver to loosen the hose clamp. Remove the drain plug with a pair of pliers if the oil is hot. Remove and clean the drop-in oil filter.

2

Reseal and replace the drain hose. Spin off the in-line oil filter, if your Sportster has one, with an oil filter wrench. Drain the filter into the pan. Clean up any spilled oil with shop rags.

3

Disconnect the filter out-line from the filter out-port by loosening the hose clamp with a screwdriver.

4

Replace the filter out-line with the cooler in-line. Tighten the cooler in-line to the filter out-port with a hose clamp and screwdriver.

5

Bolt the oil cooler mounting clamps to the left down tube or both frame down tubes as specified in the instructions that came with your oil cooler. Use a box wrench or an open-end wrench to mount the clamps.

6

Bolt the cooler to the mounting clamps with a box wrench or an open-end wrench. Ensure that the cooler is facing forward and tighten the mounting clamp fasteners, as specified in your oil cooler documentation.

7

Attach the oil cooler in-line to the oil cooler in-port using high-temperature gasket sealer, a hose clamp and a screwdriver.

8

Disconnect the oil tank return line from the return line port. Discard the return line.

9

Attach the oil cooler out-line to the oil tank return port using high-temperature gasket sealer, a hose fitting and a screwdriver. Attach the oil cooler out-line to the oil cooler using high-temperature gasket sealer, a hose clamp and a screwdriver.

10

Check all hoses for kinks and bindings. Hand-tighten a new in-line air filter to the in-line oil filter fitting. Add four quarts of oil to the oil tank. Replace the drop-in oil filter.

11

Start your Sportster in neutral and allow it to run until warm. While the Sportster is running, check all hose fittings for leaks. Make sure the oil cooler becomes warm to the touch.

12

Turn off the bike. Check the oil in the oil tank and add oil as needed.

Oil filters have come a long way over the years. Engines were originally designed without an oil filter, but filters were needed when pressure lubrication was developed for the engine. On its surface, the design of an oil filter looks simple, but the development of manmade materials such as glass and synthetic fiber have made oil filter designs more efficient. The design of the oil filter is determined by the type of engine, the size of the engine and the automobile manufacturer.

Mechanical Oil Filter Design

The mechanical oil filter uses fiber material that is pleated in design. This design traps the contaminants in the oil, preventing the particles from continuing to move into the engine. Over a period of time, the buildup of contaminants causes the oil to stop flowing into the engine so the movable parts can be lubricated. Before this buildup of dirt particles stops the flow of oil into the engine, the oil filter needs to be replaced.

Magnetic Oil Filter Design

The magnetic oil filter design uses small electromagnets to catch the particles as the oil flows through the oil filter. The best part of this type of design is that the oil filter does not have to be replaced. The oil filter does have to be removed periodically and cleaned. The worst part of this design is that it allows dirt to get through the filter and travel with the oil into the engine.

Centrifugal Oil Filter Design

The centrifugal oil filter design spins as the oil flows through the filter inducing centrifugal force and containing the contaminants. As the oil flows through the spinning oil filter the dirt or iron particles are trapped in the walls of the filter preventing them from flowing with the oil. This is a two-part oil filter, which has a housing chamber and a fiber material inserted into the housing that does all the spinning. The fiber material used in the oil filter needs to be replaced as contaminants build up, which can cause the filter to quite spinning and clog the flow of oil. The housing chamber does not need to be replaced.

Oil viscosity represents a measurement of how well oil flows. When oil flows smoothly, its viscosity is said to be high. When it clumps up or moves slowly, the opposite is true. The temperature of an engine and that of the outside environment have a significant effect on the viscosity level of engine oil. The minerals present in the oil and its refinement level determine its viscosity, as well -- up to certain prescribed temperature limits.

Performance Range

Engine oil flows best -- it has optimal viscosity -- within temperature ranges of zero and 200 degrees Fahrenheit. For this reason, oil brand products are rated with regards to how well they perform within these temperature limits. Beyond these parameters, many oils begin to either clump up in the cold or burn up from heat. The effect at either end of the temperature spectrum is a loss of lubrication in the engine. This, in turn, creates friction and heat, which ultimately damage and ruin exposed engine parts.

Extreme Cold Effects

Depending on the engine oils formulation, each product has a "pour" point: This limitation is the lowest temperature point at which the oil will still flow before it starts to coagulate into a gel. Normal engine oil may not do well much beyond freezing (32 degrees Fahrenheit). However, specially formulated oils can retain viscosity at temperatures as low as -5 degrees Fahrenheit, during prolonged use.

Extreme Heat Effects

When engine oil reaches the upper limits of its heat toleration, it may seem extremely viscous, but in reality the oil minerals are beginning to break down. This chemical deconstruction ultimately results in a boiling or burning up of the oil. The liquid will carbonize and turn into a tar-like substance as it breaks down completely. Again, the engine loses lubricant in the process, and too much oil loss will expose parts to friction, heat, and ultimately damage.

Types of Oil and Environment

When driving in a cold environment, more viscous oil will benefit the engine, as the liquid can still flow smoothly through cold lubrication systems. Particularly regarding the starting of the engine, a thin-flowing oil can protect cold parts that would otherwise grind badly in cold temperatures. Lower viscosity oils protect parts under hotter temperatures by still retaining chemical integrity at heat points where thinner oils would just burn up. Parts continue to move freely instead of getting gunked-up with tar and carbon flakes. Many race car teams use specially-formulated oils with very thick consistency to protect performance engines running at very high speeds and transmission demands.

Any type of header -- ceramic or metal -- is vulnerable to coming into contain with oil and grease. The longer you have the header, the more your chances of staining it with oil rise. If an oil stain occurs on your ceramic header, take caution to use the appropriate products to remove the stain. Some stain removers are intended only for metal and will strip away the ceramic on the header, thereby making the whole thing look more unsightly.

Instructions

1

Scrub the ceramic header with steel wool. Do not apply too much pressure, but rather perform a light scrubbing. Steel wool is often used as a product that takes oil and grease stains off of cookware and other forms of hardware, such as tools. As such, the steel wool will work effectively on ceramic headers for cleaning off the oil stain. It will not, however, remove the stain completely and make the header look like new again, but the stain will not be as visible and obvious.

2

Pour some degreaser onto a clean and dry rag. Rub the rag over the ceramic header after you have used the steel wool on it to get the majority of the stain out. The degreaser will pick up traces of the oil stain to make the area on the header look more even.

3

Apply a special ceramic polish to another clean and dry rag. Coat the stained area of the ceramic header with the polish. A ceramic polish is safe to use on ceramic headers and will bring out the natural color of the ceramic, as well as restore the ceramics shine.

The Ford F-series includes pickup trucks in a variety of sizes. The F-350 is a full-size pickup that is classified as a 1-ton truck, although its actual carrying capacity is much larger. A 1995 Ford F-350 has several choices of engines, with the most common being an 8-cylinder 7.3-liter diesel engine. The oil pump in this vehicle is attached to the bottom of the engine block. The oil pump installation procedure also requires you to drain the oil from the engine.

Instructions

1

Ensure the engine is completely cold to avoid injury from hot oil. Place a drain pan under the engine oil and remove the drain bolt on the oil pan with a socket wrench. Let the oil drain into the drain pan and replace the drain bolt. Store the oil for later use.

2

Remove the mounting bolts for the oil pan with a socket wrench and disconnect the oil pan from the bottom of the engine. Detach the oil pick-up tube from the oil pump.

3

Remove the mounting bolts that fasten the oil pump to the bottom of the engine with a socket wrench. Detach the oil pump from the engine and discard the oil pump gasket.

4

Mount a new gasket to the new oil pump and mount the new oil pump to the bottom of the engine. Tighten the mounting bolts to 14 foot-pounds with a torque wrench. Attach the oil pickup tube to the oil pump.

5

Install the oil pan and fasten the mounting bolts with a socket wrench. Replace the oil that you previously drained from the engine.

Contaminated engine oil can result in costly damage to your motor. Engine oil lubricates the moving parts of your cars engine. It also cools, cleans and prevents corrosion. Oil contaminated by water can cause serious damage to your engine. Contamination can occur through a leaking or blown gasket or severe weather. The water thins the oil and reduces its effectiveness. Symptoms of water in your oil pump include oil levels increasing and coolant levels decreasing. You will need to change the oil immediately in order to prevent extensive and expensive damage to your cars engine.

Instructions

1

Drive the car around the block to heat the oil. Heated oil drains better from the engine block.

2

Turn off the engine and set the parking brake firmly. Put on the gloves and use the jack to raise the front of the car. Place the jack stands beneath the outer edges of the cars front frame. Place the chocks around the rear wheels.

3

Locate the oil pan drain plug under the raised car. Slightly loosen the plug by turning the nut to the left with the socket wrench. Place the newspaper under the plug and the oil filter. Slide the drain pan under the hole and pull the plug out. The contaminated engine oil will drain out of the car.

4

Remove the oil filter with the oil filter wrench carefully. The filter will be full of hot oil. Pour the oil into the drain pan and set the filter aside.

5

Open the hood and take off the oil filler cap. Wait one hour for the contaminated oil to completely drain out of your vehicle.

6

Insert the new oil filter and secure it in place with the wrench. Use the socket wrench to put the plug back into the oil pan. Slide the drain pan out from under the car.

7

Put the funnel into the oil filler hole and pour one can of engine oil into the car. Pour the engine oil flush and replace the oil filler cap.

8

Start your car and let the engine run for three to five minutes.

9

Turn the engine off and repeat the oil change process one more time. You do not need to add engine oil flush this time.

10

Close the hood, and use the jack to lower the car. Remove the newspaper, jack stands and wheel chocks.

The engine oil for the Suzuki DF60 marine motor should be changed every season. In some cases, it should be changed every 100 hours to ensure the longevity and maintenance of the engine. Changing the oil in the boat can be a messy job. But with the right equipment, you can do the job quickly and easily.

Instructions

1

Start the Suzuki DF60 motor and let it run for a few minutes. This will warm up the oil in the engine and make it easier to extract.

2

Open the engine cap and locate the dipstick tube. Engage the oil evacuation system to drain the oil from the engine. Loosen the oil filter with a filter wrench as the oil is draining.

3

Collect the oil in an oil pan or jug as it drains from the engine. Replace it with new oil. Use Suzuki 10W-40 engine oil. Pour approximately 1.8 quarts of engine oil into the receptacle.

4

Change the oil filter by unscrewing it. Replace it with a new oil filter and put the old one in a plastic bag for disposal. Use a funnel to ensure the oil is kept contained to the engine and does not cause a mess. Replace the oil cap.

Oil coolers are a practical add-on for bikers who ride long distances, who ride in the desert Southwest in the summer or who have modified their engines to produce 130 percent or more power than a stock engine. For riders who frequently make short commutes in winter in cold climates, oil coolers may do more harm than good. Several aftermarket manufacturers, including Lockhart, Jagg and Ultracool, pioneered these accessories. Harley-Davidson markets its own line of oil coolers and this is how the motor company recommends that you install one of theirs.

Instructions

1

Drain your motor oil into a pan using the proper procedure for your Harley. Most Harleys use a drain plug. Softails drain through a hose.

2

Remove the oil filter with an oil filter wrench and drain the residual oil into the pan. Clean all spilled oil off the front of the motorcycle with rags. Legally dispose of all waste.

3

Remove the oil feed hose from the oil pump. Remove the feed hose fitting from the crankcase and discard the oil feed hose.

4

Apply gasket and thread sealer to two oil line fittings included with your Harley oil cooler kit. Attach one fitting to the oil pump and the other to the crankcase. Torque to between 55 and 65 inch-pounds.

5

Loosely install the oil cooler return hose assembly included with your kit to the crankcase fitting. Loosely install the oil cooler supply hose assembly in your kit to the oil pump fitting.

6

Remove the two clips that secure your clutch cable and wire harness to the left frame down tube of your motorcycle. Replace them with the oil cooler clamps included in your kit.

7

Loosely attach the oil cooler to the clamps using the Allen screws and hex nuts in your kit. Use a flathead screwdriver to attach the oil return hose to the inboard connection of the oil cooler with a hose clamp.

8

Attach the oil feed hose to the outboard connection of the oil using a hose clamp and flathead screwdriver. Tighten the hose clamps.

9

Adjust the oil cooler so it is facing forward and there is no tension on the hoses. Tighten the oil cooler clamp screws to 30 inch-pounds of torque.

10

Insert the clutch cable and the wiring harness into the clips on the oil cooler clamps.

11

Disconnect the oil cooler supply hose assembly from the oil pump fitting. Attach the oil cooler return hose assembly to crankcase and tighten to 18 to 20 foot-pounds of torque.

12

Re-attach the oil cooler supply hose assembly to the oil pump fitting and tighten the nut to 18 to 20 foot-pounds of torque.

13

Install the oil line clips to the metal tubing of the oil cooler feed and supply lines.

14

Screw on a new oil filter. Add oil to the oil tank until the dipstick indicates that the tank is full.

15

Put the motorcycle in neutral. Start the motorcycle and allow it to run until the engine becomes warm. Check all fittings for leaks. Ensure that the oil cooler becomes warm.

16

Retighten all fasteners to torque after the engine has cooled. Remove and read the oil tank dipstick. Add oil as needed.