Fix It

Replacing the exhaust manifolds on your Ford F-150 truck is a complicated process that varies greatly depending not only on the year of the truck but also the type of engine. The manifolds are connected to the cylinder heads and the catalytic converters. You should talk with your mechanic before attempting this type of repair.

Instructions

V6 Engines

1

Disconnect the trucks negative battery cable, then raise the truck and securely support it on jack stands.

2

Disconnect the electrical connectors to the oxygen sensor.

3

Remove the nuts connecting the exhaust Y-pipe to the manifolds. Apply penetrating oil to the nuts and studs, if necessary.

4

Remove the engine lifting bracket. For the drivers side manifold, remove the dipstick tube from the oil pan by removing its nut and pulling it out. For the passengers side manifold, disconnect the EGR pipe from the manifold.

5

Disconnect the six mounting nuts for the exhaust manifold. Separate the manifold from the cylinder head and remove the old gaskets.

6

Place the replacement exhaust manifold with new gaskets onto the cylinder head. Install the mounting nuts with a torque wrench, tightening the center nuts first, followed by the front pair and the rear pair.

7

Reconnect and install the other components in the reverse order of removal--this can include the engine lifting bracket, oil dipstick tube, EGR pipe and oxygen sensor electrical connector.

8

Lower the truck and reconnect the battery cable.

V8 Engines

9

Disconnect the negative battery cable, raise the truck and support it on jack stands. Remove the inner splash shield from the fender well.

10

Disconnect the EGR pipe at the EGR valve and exhaust manifold if you are removing the drivers side manifold on a 4.6 liter engine. On a 5.4 liter, remove the front and rear heated oxygen sensors and the exhaust support bracket.

11

Remove the starter if youre removing the passengers side manifold. Also remove the stabilizer bar on a 5.4 liter engine.

12

Disconnect the catalytic converter assemblies from the manifold on a 5.4 liter engine by removing their nuts, then move the assemblies to the rear of the truck.

13

Remove the mounting nuts from the exhaust manifold and remove it. Remove the studs from the cylinder heads and discard them and the nuts.

14

Clean the mating surface on the cylinder heads, using a gasket scraper to remove any carbon deposits. Install new studs into the cylinder heads.

15

Place the exhaust manifold over the studs with new gaskets. Install new mounting nuts, working from the rear to the front and alternating between the top and bottom rows.

16

Install the remaining components in the reverse order of removal and lower the truck. If you need to reconnect the EGR pipe, apply a small amount of anti-seize compound on the threads.

The General Motors Oil Life Monitor System first appeared in GM trucks in the 2000 model year. The system measures the remaining service life of an engines motor oil based on several factors, including the number of engine starts, miles driven at operating temperature and total hours of engine operation. The Oil Life Monitor System determines intervals between oil changes based on operating conditions. You should reset the oil light to initiate a service interval after you change the oil.

Instructions

1

Turn the ignition key to the "on" position.

2

Depress the accelerator pedal three times to the floor in rapid succession within five seconds. Turn the ignition key off and wait for ten seconds.

3

Turn the ignition key to the "Start" position, and start the engine. The Oil Life Monitor system has been reset.

The crankshaft position sensor -- also known as the CKP sensor --detects crankshaft position and rotation on the 2005 PT Cruiser. The sensor relays this information to the electronic control unit and helps determine ignition and fuel injection timing. Wear or damage to the crankshaft position sensor can lead to poor performance or even a non-running condition. The sensor is above the front motor mount so some disassembly is required to replace it.

Instructions

1

Set the parking brake and chock the rear wheels. Turn the ignition switch to the Off position.

2

Jack the front of the vehicle up. Support the vehicle using jack stands.

3

Locate the sensor on the front of the engine just below the starter. Locate the bending strut and structural collar just below the sensor.

4

Remove the five mounting bolts from the strut, using a ratchet and socket. Remove the strut from the engine. Remove the three remaining bolts from the collar, using a ratchet and socket. Move the power steering hose aside and then remove the collar from the engine.

5

Lift up on the locking tab on the sensor electrical connector. Unplug the electrical connector from the sensor.

6

Wipe the surrounding area using a clean rag to remove any dirt or debris that may find its way into the sensor hole.

7

Remove the sensor retaining bolt, using a ratchet and socket. Pull the sensor out of its hole.

8

Lubricate the O-ring on the new sensor with clean engine oil. Insert the new sensor in the hole and push it in with a slight twisting motion. Align the sensor mount with the bolt hole and install the retaining bolt. Tighten the bolt to 80 inch-pounds, using an inch-pound torque wrench and socket.

9

Install the electrical connector onto the sensor terminal. Ensure that the terminal lock snaps into position.

10

Hold the collar in its position between the transmission and the engine oil pan. Move the power steering hose into position below the collar. Install the collar-to-oil pan bolt through the forward hose support and collar bolt hole and then tighten it finger tight.

11

Place the bending strut in its position and start the upper strut-to-transaxle bolt. Do not tighten the bolt at this time.

12

Insert the lower strut-to-transaxle bolt through the strut and collar and start it. Do not tighten the bolt at this time.

13

Install the strut-to-block bolt on the passenger side corner of the strut and then tighten it finger tight.

14

Insert the collar-to-oil pan bolt through the rear power steering hose support and rear collar hole and then tighten it finger tight.

15

Tighten the three collar-to-transaxle bolts to 75 foot-pounds, using a foot-pound torque wrench and socket.

16

Install the remaining two strut-to-engine block bolts. Tighten the remaining five bolts to 45 foot-pounds, using a foot-pound torque wrench and socket.

17

Remove the jack stands and lower the vehicle using a jack.

The rear bumper of the Ford Escort is attached with a series of bolts and screws located in the rear fender wells, inside the luggage compartment and underneath the back of the vehicle. You may need to remove the bumper because of damage or because you want to replace the bumper with a different style that fits your needs, such as a tow bar or bumper hitch.

Instructions

1

Unfasten the five screws on the inside lip of both rear fender wells in the back that are securing the rear bumper of the Escort, using a screwdriver. The rear fender well is the void area where the rear tire sits, on the back side of the car.

2

Open the rear hatch and unfasten the plastic pushpins that attach the luggage compartment rear cover to the vehicle frame by prying them off with a screwdriver. Remove the rear cover from the luggage compartment by hand. The luggage compartment of the Ford Escort is that area behind the rear seats that is used for storage instead of a trunk.

3

Locate the three bolts on both sides of the inside back panel of the luggage compartment that secure the rear bumper to the vehicle frame. Unfasten the nuts on the bolts with a socket wrench.

4

Unfasten the two nuts -- one on each side of the bumper -- underneath the rear of the vehicle that secure the rear bumper to the frame, using a socket wrench.

5

Lift the rear bumper off the frame and remove it from the Escort.

The Acura brand is manufactured by Honda and was introduced in 1986. If your Acura is malfunctioning, it needs servicing or repair. Attending to any problems with your Acura will prolong the life of your car.

Instructions

1

Change a dysfunctional or dead battery on your Acura. Turn off the engine. Prop open the hood. Disconnect both battery cables, the negative cable first. Detach the clamp that fastens the battery in place. Remove the old battery. Place it on the ground beside you. Insert the new battery into the battery tray. Refasten the clamp that holds the battery in place. Clean the battery cables. Put some petroleum jelly on the ends of the cable. Reconnect the battery cables, the positive cable first. Tighten the connections using the wrench. Close the hood. Start the engine. Let the engine run for at least ten minutes.

2

Replace any blown fuses on your Acura. Turn off the engine. Prop open the hood. The fuse panel is located directly in front of the steering column. Remove the cover. The blown fuse will be blackened. Remove the fuse with your fingers. Replace the fuse with a new fuse of equal amperage. Pop the new fuse into the old slot. It should go in quite easily. Start the engine to make sure any electrical issues caused by the blown fuse have now been remedied. Replace the cover. Close the hood.

3

Go to a website that provides repair estimates such as Repairpal. Select "Acura" from the "Select Car Make" drop-down menu. Click "Get an Estimate." Enter the year and model of your Acura using the drop boxes. Click "Select Service Type." A list of service and repair issues and tasks will open. Choose the option that best relates to your car. Enter your zip code. Click "Get an Estimate." Review your results. This includes a price estimate and information related to the problem, including misdiagnoses, symptoms and background information. A list of independent auto shops and dealerships in your area will also appear on the page.

4

Contact an auto shop in your area. Give a description of your Acuras status that is as specific as possible based on your research. Make an appointment and bring your car in for repair.

Aluminum is not as hard as steel. Compared to steel, aluminum alloy is much less susceptible to rust; however, it is sensitive to chemical reactions. It may form a light coating of corrosion caused by oxidation following the use of harsh degreasers. This results in the need for arduous polishing of engine parts. To prevent this, a detailer should use a mixture of water and a soap degreaser in place of chemical solvents when cleaning aluminum alloy motors.

Instructions

Clean the Motor

1

Fill the spray bottle with soap degreaser and water per the product directions.

2

Run the engine for about 30 seconds. It should be slightly warm.

3

Spray the water and degreaser mixture onto the motor, engine components and underside of the hood. Wait one to two minutes to allow the soap degreaser to soak in.

4

Use the pressure washer to spray the underside of the hood, motor and motor components. Avoid spraying water directly on electrical components.

5

Spray soap degreaser on any remaining dirty spots. Scrub stubborn grime with the toothbrush.

6

Rinse the engine with the water hose.

7

Dry the motor, wires and other components with shop towels or rags. Finish drying by starting the motor.

The Ford Ranger is a compact pickup truck manufactured by the Ford Motor Company since 1983. The 1991 model has a choice of several engines, including a four-cylinder, 2.3-liter engine. The oil pump circulates oil through the engine to keep it lubricated. The oil pump in a 1991 Ford Ranger with a 2.3-liter engine is on the front of the engine and is driven by the timing belt.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the cable from the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench to prevent you from starting the engine inadvertently. Remove the timing belt from its pulley and detach the electrical connector for the camshaft position sensor on the camshaft.

2

Insert a pry bar through the hole in the oil pump sprocket to prevent it from turning. Remove the mounting bolt for the oil pump sprocket with a socket wrench and disconnect the sprocket.

3

Remove the mounting bolt for the camshaft position sensor with the socket wrench and disconnect the sensor. Remove the four mounting bolts for the oil pump and detach the oil pump from the front of the engine. Discard the gasket for the oil pump.

4

Clean the mating surfaces on the oil pump gasket with a shop rag and lubricate the new gasket with clean engine oil. Install the new oil pump and gasket and torque the mounting bolts for the oil pump to between 90 and 123 inch-pounds with a torque wrench.

5

Attach the camshaft position sensor and torque its mounting bolts to between 45 and 61 inch-pounds with the torque wrench. Install the oil pump sprocket and tighten its mounting bolts to between 30 and 40 foot-pounds.

6

Connect the electrical connector for the camshaft position sensor and install the timing belt. Reattach the cable to the negative battery terminal with the socket wrench. Add 8 ounces of engine oil to prime the oil pump.

A faulty drain cock or petcock on a 2007 Jeep Liberty could result in a radiator leak, an overheated engine and costly repairs. The petcock is a small valve located on the lower left side of the radiator. The petcock threads into the face of the radiator tank and replacing it is a fairly simple task that requires few tools. Make sure to drain the radiator before you remove the petcock to avoid spilling coolant.

Instructions

1

Open the hood of your Jeep and remove the radiator cap from the radiator. Set the cap aside then slide a jack under the front axle and raise the Jeep off the ground. Place a set of jack stands under the Jeep to support it.

2

Slide a section of rubber tubing onto the drain cock and place a drain pan below it. Open the drain cock with a wrench and allow the coolant to drain from the system. Spin the drain cock out of the radiator with a wrench and thread the new on in place, tightening it with the wrench. Make sure the drain is closed.

3

Raise the front of the Jeep off the jack stands then remove the stands from under the truck. Remove the drain pan from under the truck and lower the truck to the ground.

4

Fill the radiator with coolant then place the cap on the radiator. Open the pressure bottle and fill it with coolant until it reaches the full line on the bottle. Start the engine and turn the heat selector to on. Allow the Jeep to run until it reaches normal operating temperature, about five to 10 minutes.

5

Recheck the coolant level in the pressure bottle and add coolant until it reaches the full mark again. Continue checking and filling the bottle until the level no longer falls with the engine running.

6

Recheck the coolant level after several days of normal driving. Add additional coolant as needed at that time.

The ignition switch on a 1977 Chevrolet truck is mounted on the steering column and is designed to trigger the starter motor and start the engine. This assembly can wear out over time. You then would have to remove the switch and replace it with a new one. This task can take about 30 minutes.

Instructions

1

Unbolt the steering column from the dashboard with the 1/2-inch ratchet and socket. Caully lower it away from the dashboard to access the top of the ignition switch.

2

Unplug the wiring to the switch. Insert the key in the ignition and put it into the "Lock" position.

3

Unscrew the switch from the column using the Phillips-head screwdriver. Pull the switch off of the column and replace it with a new unit.

The exhaust system of a car is designed to carry away the harmful and toxic gases produced by the engine. The quicker these gases can be channeled away from the engine, the better its performance. Even the smallest crack or hole in the exhaust can reduce the overall efficiency of the car. There are numerous ways to patch an exhaust; however, some are better than others.

Cut a Section Out

If there is only one small section of the exhaust pipe that is damaged, you can simply remove it. This is a simple procedure that can be done with basic tools. All that is needed is a pipe cutter, a welder and a good eye. The biggest problem with cutting away a section of the exhaust pipe is getting to it. Unless you have a sunken pit in the garage, some jacks may be necessary to raise the car. By cutting away the damaged section, and welding the remaining pipe back together, the exhaust will still be able to function. However, efficiency will be lost. Pieces of pipe can be purchased from garages that will join together and replace a damaged section of pipe. This can prevent the exhaust pipe from becoming too small.

Heat-Resistant Material

The problem with attempting to patch an exhaust without using proper equipment is that the exhaust heats up considerably. Most material applied to patch a hole in an exhaust will burn away after the car has driven a few miles. A creative solution is to use fire-retardant and heat-resistant clothing, available from work clothing outfitters. Basic heat-resistance gloves can withstand temperatures up to 1,500 degrees Fahrenheit. This is more than capable of coping with the 300 to 520 degrees Fahrenheit that is the average temperature of an exhaust. Using a glove or piece of material to stuff into a hole is only a temporary measure, however, as the material may become dislodged as the car travels.

Use a Bandage

Not the most creative solution, but one that works, is heatproof gum. A small crack or a hole can be quickly patched up by applying this versatile material, available from most garages and hardware suppliers. The heatproof gum can come as a paste, a gum or as an actual bandage that you can wrap around any damage on the exhaust. The material is treated to ensure it can withstand the temperatures of the exhaust, and some brands of heatproof gum are designed to act as a permanent solution rather than a temporary measure.

A sure sign of air conditioning problems is a lack of cool air coming out of the vents in your van or other vehicle. The problem might be with the compressor or motor, but it might just be a leak. The leak might not be your only issue, but it must be addressed before fixing any other components of the air conditioning system.

Instructions

1

Look in your vehicles owners manual to determine what type of rigerant your van uses.

2

Set the rigerant leak-detector to the appropriate setting. The setting varies based on the type of rigerant your vehicle uses. It is typically labeled CFC, HCFC or HFC, and must be set correctly to locate the source of the leaks.

3

Move the rigerant leak-detectors sensor along the air conditioning hoses and other components, looking for the indicators of a leak. The indicators vary in different rigerant leak-detectors, but are often represented by a buzzer or other sound.

4

Pay special attention to connection points. Move the sensor across all sides of the hoses and other components.

5

Mark each leak with masking tape. This allows the mechanic addressing the leaks to easily locate it.

Aluminum car radiators can be melted down to be re-formed into a variety of new aluminum products. Aluminum, including aluminum in the form of a radiator, is classified as scrap metal, and you may be able to sell it to a scrap metal recycling center in your area. The value of an aluminum radiator as scrap depends on the purity of the metal, which can be determined by examining its strength, texture and hardness, and the current market price of aluminum.

Instructions

1

Locate a scrap metal recycling company in your community.

2

Call the local scrap metal company to confirm that it purchases and recycle aluminum radiators. Discuss the terms of the exchange.

3

Arrange for pickup service, if available, or transport the aluminum radiator to the dealer. The selling price of the radiator as scrap metal will be determined by using the current market price, the weight of the radiator and the purity of the aluminum.

4

Complete the sale according to the agreed-upon terms.

The 1994 Mustang was a popular performance car with over 120,000 produced by Ford. The Mustang was a two-door, rear-wheel drive car with a solid rear axle. The ignition switch is located on the right hand side of the steering column. Replacement of the ignition switch may be required due to switch failure or loss of the keys. Basic hand tools are required to perform replacement of the ignition switch.

Instructions

1

Open the hood of the mustang and remove the negative battery cable from the battery, using a wrench. Wait two minutes and use the wrench to remove the positive battery cable from the battery.

2

Remove the screws holding the drivers side knee bolster in place. Gently pull on the bolster to remove it from the Mustang.

3

Place the ignition switch in the "Run" position and leave the key in the switch.

4

Remove the plastic panel covering the bottom of the steering column with the Phillips screwdriver.

5

Lift the tab of the electrical connector on the ignition switch and separate the connector from the ignition switch.

6

Remove the two Torx bolts holding the ignition switch to the steering column and pull the ignition switch free of the steering column.

7

Place new switch next to the old unit and verify the actuator pin is in the same position. Insert the new switch into the steering column and attach with the two Torx screws. Tighten the Torx screws with the Torx screwdriver to secure it to the steering column

8

Snap the electrical connection into the new ignition switch.

9

Replace the lower steering column cover and tighten the retaining screws with the Phillips screwdriver. Position the knee bolster into the original position and secure with the Phillips screws.

10

Attach the positive battery cable to positive terminal on the battery and tighten with the wrench. Repeat for the negative battery cable.

The oxygen sensor on your 1996 Jeep Cherokee helps regulate the fuel consumption and emissions. The sensor is threaded into the exhaust manifold and monitors the oxygen saturation in the trucks exhaust. The Cherokees computer adjusts the fuel-and-air mixture combusted in the engine based on the oxygen saturation. If your truck begins to burn a noticeably greater amount of fuel compared to its normal fuel consumption, buy a replacement oxygen sensor from an auto parts store and change it at home.

Instructions

1

Lift the front of the Cherokee with a jack until it sits high enough to fit jack stands underneath it for support. Place the jack stands under the frame rails just behind the front wheels. Lower the Cherokee so that it rests securely on the jack stands.

2

Disconnect the electrical connection from the oxygen sensor. Remove the sensor with a wrench or oxygen sensor socket attached to a ratchet.

3

Spread a thin layer of anti-seize compound on the threads of the new sensor. Do not get anti-seize compound on the sensor head. Thread it into place by hand. Tighten the sensor with a wrench or a socket and ratchet.

4

Connect the wiring harness connection by pressing it together until it clicks. Lift the truck with the jack until you can remove the jack stands. Return the truck to the ground.

The purpose of installing an exhaust system on your vehicle is to reduce the amount of toxic emissions from your engine and to help reduce the noise level generated by your engine. Having a good exhaust system can also increase your engines performance. This can increase horsepower and the gas mileage of your car or truck. This project if fairly easy and can be done at home in your drive or garage with a simple set of tools.

Instructions

1

Take a pad of steel wool and caully clean the mounting surface that attaches the exhaust system to the engine headers of the vehicle.

2

Put the exhaust gasket on the mounting surface of the header. Align the mounting holes of the exhaust system with the holes on the engine header. Insert the mounting bolts and use your hands to loosely tighten them in place.

3

Connect the exhaust system to your cars exhaust hangers. These hangers have a rubber loop at the bottom. Take the metal hook from the exhaust system and attach it to the loop.

4

Use a socket wrench to finish tightening the bolts that are connecting the exhaust system to the headers on the engine.

5

Remove the jack stands and use the jack to lower the car back down to the ground.

Racing an engine to remove air is a method used to remove bubbles of air trapped within the coolant system of an automobile after you change the coolant. In order for the thermostat to work correctly, you must purge the system of air. Otherwise, the thermostat experiences pockets of air that disrupt the heating and cooling process. If you leave this process unchecked, it could cause expensive engine damage.

Instructions

1

Remove the radiator cap from the filler spout on the radiator. If your vehicle does not have a radiator cap, lift the cap off the expansion tank for the radiator.

2

Turn on the engine, rev it to approximately 3,000 RPM until the radiator fan turns on for a period of one minute, and then turn the vehicle off. The fan turning on is an indicator that the thermostat is in the open position, circulating the coolant through the engine. The air goes to the least path of resistance. In the coolant system, that is the hole in the filler spout.

3

Check the fluid level in the radiator. The level should be slightly lower than normal. Fill the fluid to within an inch of the top of the spout.

4

Repeat step two and three a second time and then place the cap back on the radiator.

The exhaust manifold connects directly to an engines cylinder ports and routes chemical-laden exhaust gases out toward the tailpipe. The seal between exhaust manifold and cylinder ports must be airtight for safety and emission reasons. You may use sealant along with a gasket.

Function

The exhaust manifold plays an important role in engine performance and longevity. Combustion within the engine cylinders creates waste gases expelled through the exhaust system, which begins at the exhaust manifold. You must maintain an airtight seal between cylinder ports and manifold.

Applying Sealant

Every professionally installed exhaust manifold and cylinder head have a gasket compressed between them. Age and engine heat wear gaskets down, reducing the quality of seal between the two components. Though sealant adds seal protection, new gasket installation does not require it.

Safety

A leaking seal or cracked exhaust manifold allows harmful exhaust gases such as carbon monoxide into the vehicle cabin. Carbon monoxide impairs motor functions and in large doses can cause death.

A vehicle exhaust system carries toxic fumes generated by the engine away from the passenger compartment. When an exhaust system leaks, exhaust fumes can flood into the passenger compartment, along high levels of carbon monoxide. Carbon monoxide cause headaches and can even cause passengers in the vehicle to become unconscious and eventually die.

Instructions

1

Raise the vehicle with a floor jack positioned at a secure point recommended by the vehicle owners manual. Stabilize the vehicle by placing a jack stand under each side of the vehicle frame. Lower the floor jack.

2

Remove loose dirt and debris from the area around the exhaust hole with a clean rag.

3

Scuff the area around the hole with 600-grit sandpaper.

4

Spray engine degreaser on the area surrounding the hole. Allow the cleaner to sit on the exhaust for 10 to 15 minutes. Wipe the engine degreaser from the exhaust with a clean rag.

5

Wrap the exhaust pipe starting two inches to one side of the hole. Continue wrapping until you overlap and past the hole by two inches.

6

Cut the exhaust repair tape with a utility knife.

7

Run a plastic squeegee over the applied exhaust repair tape to remove air bubbles and secure the tape to the exhaust.

8

Raise the vehicle with the floor jack. Remove the floor jacks. Lower the floor jack.

A timing light uses a strobe flash to determine the ignition timing of a car, which is the frequency of spark plugs firing. The timing light illuminates marks that the car manufacturer has placed on the engines crankshaft pulley or flywheel. The position of the marks when the engine is running indicates the timing of the spark in relation to piston position. The Equus Xenon, also called the Innova, uses a xenon bulb to read settings and connects to the spark plug with an inductive pickup. While timing analysis can be performed at home, a repair manual for the vehicle make and model is necessary to determine if the timing is set correctly.

Instructions

1

Locate the timing mark and erence pointer, which are typically located on the crankshaft pulley, vibration damper or on the flywheel. Make sure the timing mark and pointer are clean and visible, using chalk to define the marks if necessary.

2

Connect the timing light battery clips to the vehicle battery, placing the red clip on the positive (+) battery terminal and the black clip on the negative terminal. Attach one end of the supplied inductive pickup leads to the bottom of the timing light handle and the other part to the number one spark plug cable.

3

Start the engine and run it until normal operating temperature is reached. Turn on the timing light by pressing the "On/Off" switch, and the timing light will begin flashing. Adjust the timing light barrel to direct the light toward the timing marks.

4

Note the position of the rotating timing mark in relation to the erence pointer. If the readings are within the range advised in the vehicles repair manual, the ignition timing is correct. If the timing reading is not in range, an adjustment or part replacement may be necessary

5

Press the "On/"Off switch to turn the light off after use, then turn the car engine off and remove the battery clips.

Most states require the use of a catalytic converter installed after the exhaust manifold, in line with the exhaust. The catalytic converter--often called the "cat"--acts as a filter and creates better emissions out of the end of the exhaust. Catalytic converters get clogged up over time and need to be replaced with a new one. If not, then the car will run poorly and wont be able to pass emissions testing. First though, you have to remove the catalytic converter.

Instructions

1

Pop the hood. Remove the air-intake tubing from the engine bay using the flat-head screwdriver. Pull the air box up and out of the engine bay. Unbolt the exhaust manifold at the front of the car from the forward exhaust section--which is the section that contains the catalytic converter--using the 3/8-inch ratchet, extension and sockets.

2

Lift up the front of the car with the jack. Put it down on the jack stands and then remove the jack.

3

Locate the oxygen sensors on the forward section of the exhaust, which are cylinders, one-half inch by three inches, that have electrical connections on them. Unplug the harness from the oxygen sensor using your hands.

4

Unbolt the forward section of the exhaust, including the catalytic converter, from the rest of the exhaust using the 3/8-inch ratchet and socket. Lower the forward exhaust section away from the car.