Fix It

Replacing the exhaust manifolds on your Ford F-150 truck is a complicated process that varies greatly depending not only on the year of the truck but also the type of engine. The manifolds are connected to the cylinder heads and the catalytic converters. You should talk with your mechanic before attempting this type of repair.

Instructions

V6 Engines

1

Disconnect the trucks negative battery cable, then raise the truck and securely support it on jack stands.

2

Disconnect the electrical connectors to the oxygen sensor.

3

Remove the nuts connecting the exhaust Y-pipe to the manifolds. Apply penetrating oil to the nuts and studs, if necessary.

4

Remove the engine lifting bracket. For the drivers side manifold, remove the dipstick tube from the oil pan by removing its nut and pulling it out. For the passengers side manifold, disconnect the EGR pipe from the manifold.

5

Disconnect the six mounting nuts for the exhaust manifold. Separate the manifold from the cylinder head and remove the old gaskets.

6

Place the replacement exhaust manifold with new gaskets onto the cylinder head. Install the mounting nuts with a torque wrench, tightening the center nuts first, followed by the front pair and the rear pair.

7

Reconnect and install the other components in the reverse order of removal--this can include the engine lifting bracket, oil dipstick tube, EGR pipe and oxygen sensor electrical connector.

8

Lower the truck and reconnect the battery cable.

V8 Engines

9

Disconnect the negative battery cable, raise the truck and support it on jack stands. Remove the inner splash shield from the fender well.

10

Disconnect the EGR pipe at the EGR valve and exhaust manifold if you are removing the drivers side manifold on a 4.6 liter engine. On a 5.4 liter, remove the front and rear heated oxygen sensors and the exhaust support bracket.

11

Remove the starter if youre removing the passengers side manifold. Also remove the stabilizer bar on a 5.4 liter engine.

12

Disconnect the catalytic converter assemblies from the manifold on a 5.4 liter engine by removing their nuts, then move the assemblies to the rear of the truck.

13

Remove the mounting nuts from the exhaust manifold and remove it. Remove the studs from the cylinder heads and discard them and the nuts.

14

Clean the mating surface on the cylinder heads, using a gasket scraper to remove any carbon deposits. Install new studs into the cylinder heads.

15

Place the exhaust manifold over the studs with new gaskets. Install new mounting nuts, working from the rear to the front and alternating between the top and bottom rows.

16

Install the remaining components in the reverse order of removal and lower the truck. If you need to reconnect the EGR pipe, apply a small amount of anti-seize compound on the threads.

The water pump in a 1990 Ford F-150 Lariat keeps the engine cool by circulating water and coolant throughout the engine. A malfunctioning water pump can cause the engines temperature to increase, even when the radiator has sufficient coolant. This may eventually result in permanent damage to the engine. The pump attaches to the timing chain cover on the front of the engine block. You will need to drain the cooling system when replacing the pump.

Instructions

1

Position a sealable container under the radiator drain hole and remove the drain plug. Wait for the coolant to drain into the container. Seal the container for later use. Replace the drain plug.

2

Remove the mounting bolts for the cooling fan shroud with a socket wrench. Disconnect the shroud from the radiator. Detach the radiator hose, bypass hose and heater hose from the water pump. Disconnect the drive belt and the cooling fan assembly, including the fan spacer and pulley.

3

Remove the alternator mounting bolts with a socket wrench, and move the alternator out of the way to access the water pump. You may also need to remove the power steering pump bracket if the vehicle is so equipped. Disconnect the mounting bolts for the water pump and detach the pump from the timing chain cover. Discard the water pump gasket.

4

Apply a thin layer of sealer to the new gasket. Install the new pump and gasket to the timing chain cover. Tighten the mounting bolts for the water pump to 18 foot-pounds with a torque wrench.

5

Repeat steps two and three in reverse order to complete the installation of the new water pump. Replace the coolant in the radiator.

The flashers, also called blinkers or turn signals, as well as the hazard lights on the Ford F-150 pickup truck are all controlled by one simple relay module. If you have a front or rear flasher that isnt working, chances are you need to replace a simple five-pin relay module located on your steering column. The part costs very little, and replacing it will take just a few minutes of your time.

Instructions

1

Use a flat-head screwdriver to gently pry the clam-shell door open. The door is located under the instrument panel on the top of the steering column between the instrument panel and the steering wheel.

2

Remove the door and set it in a safe place.

3

Remove the blue five-pin relay from the column by pulling it gently from the plug.

4

Remove the screw from the top of the relay.

5

Replace the screw on the top of the relay.

6

Replace the relay with the new one (part number F65B-13350-AA). Plug the new relay in where you removed the old one.

7

Close the clam-shell door by lining it up and pressing down until it snaps in place.

The casting numbers on the block of a Ford engine help identify the specific engine. The numbers are often useful in mating cylinder heads, determining when and where the block was manufactured and into which mode of Ford it was installed. Locating the casting number is relatively easy if youre physically fit and have some dexterity. The casting number must be decoded to understand the information it contains.

Instructions

1

Angle your inspection mirror underneath the back side of the engine block, where the starter mounts to the engine. Depending on your physical size -- and the specific year, make and model of your Ford -- observation is possible from the top of the engine well. Another option is jack up the Ford up, support it on two jack stands and look for the numbers from beneath the vehicle.

2

Shine your flashlight on the inspection mirror. Illuminate the section of the block where Ford stamped the casting number. This is directly beside the starter mount, where the starter motor bolts to the engine.

3

Write down the casting number down with pen and paper.

The Ford Ranger is a compact pickup truck manufactured by the Ford Motor Company since 1983. The 1991 model has a choice of several engines, including a four-cylinder, 2.3-liter engine. The oil pump circulates oil through the engine to keep it lubricated. The oil pump in a 1991 Ford Ranger with a 2.3-liter engine is on the front of the engine and is driven by the timing belt.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the cable from the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench to prevent you from starting the engine inadvertently. Remove the timing belt from its pulley and detach the electrical connector for the camshaft position sensor on the camshaft.

2

Insert a pry bar through the hole in the oil pump sprocket to prevent it from turning. Remove the mounting bolt for the oil pump sprocket with a socket wrench and disconnect the sprocket.

3

Remove the mounting bolt for the camshaft position sensor with the socket wrench and disconnect the sensor. Remove the four mounting bolts for the oil pump and detach the oil pump from the front of the engine. Discard the gasket for the oil pump.

4

Clean the mating surfaces on the oil pump gasket with a shop rag and lubricate the new gasket with clean engine oil. Install the new oil pump and gasket and torque the mounting bolts for the oil pump to between 90 and 123 inch-pounds with a torque wrench.

5

Attach the camshaft position sensor and torque its mounting bolts to between 45 and 61 inch-pounds with the torque wrench. Install the oil pump sprocket and tighten its mounting bolts to between 30 and 40 foot-pounds.

6

Connect the electrical connector for the camshaft position sensor and install the timing belt. Reattach the cable to the negative battery terminal with the socket wrench. Add 8 ounces of engine oil to prime the oil pump.

The T-5 is a five-speed automotive transmission manufactured by Transmissions Technologies Corporations (TREMEC) for Ford Motor Company. The transmission is used in passenger cars, SUVs and light trucks. It was first introduced in 1981 for use in the AMC Spirit/Concord. The two types of T-5 transmissions are World Class and Non World Class. Today the transmission is used in the Ford Mustang GT. It is also sold as an aftermarket part for use in classic car restoration.

Weight

The weight of the transmission is 75 pounds for both cars and light trucks. The transmission housings are made of die-cast aluminum in order to reduce the total weight.

Gear Ratio

The gear ratio for T-5 car transmissions can range from 2.95-to-1 to 3.75-to-1 for first gear, from 1.94-to-1 to 2.19-to-1 for second gear and from 1.29-to-1 to 1.41-to-1 for third gear. It is 1-to-1 for all models for fourth gear, and ranges from .08-to-1 to 0.72-to-1 for fifth gear and from 2.76-to-1 to 3.53-to-1 in reverse. For light trucks, the gear ratio can range from 3.35-to-1 to 4.03-to-1 for first gear, 1.99-to-1 to 2.37-to-1 for second gear and 1.33-to-1 to 1.49-to-1 for third gear. It is 1-to-1 for all models for fourth gear, and ranges from 72-to-1 to .86-to-1 for fifth gear and 3.71-to-1 to 3.76-to-1 for reverse.

Lower Counter Gears

The lower counter gears for the Non World Class transmissions produced in 1983 spin on cylindrical bearings that are in a straight configuration. These bearings have a thrust washer for support when they are under load. The lower counter gears of the 1985 Word Class transmissions have tapered bearings. These bearings replace the thrust washer of the earlier version.

Synchronizer Rings

Non World Class T-5 transmissions have solid bronze synchronizer rings. These rings are different sizes than the rings in the World Class T-5. On the World Class transmission, the synchronizer rings on the main shaft are fiber-lined steel. This material improved the friction surface of the rings, which slows the gear quickly, allowing for smoother shifts. The fifth gear ring is bronze. From 1990 to 1993, the ring linings on the V8 T-5 were changed to carbon fiber. This improvement in surface friction resulted in higher rpm shifts.

Other Specifications

The World Class T-5 was introduced in 1993. Its maximum horsepower is 450 under non-racing conditions. Based on 100,000 mile usage, the torque rating is 330 foot-pounds.

The drive cycle is a process where the vehicle is driven from a cold start and operated for a specific period of time, and at certain speeds, in order to allow the powertrain control module, or PCM, to perform certain diagnostic procedures and gather performance data. In order to reset the process and start from the beginning of the drive cycle, a number of steps must be completed. Failure to follow the specific procedure for resetting the drive cycle can delay the programming and configuration of certain modules, as well as alter previously gathered diagnostic data.

Instructions

1

Fill the fuel tank at least 15 percent full, but no more than 85 percent full. Having the tank too low or completely full will prevent the PCM from properly completing the drive cycle.

2

Park the vehicle and turn off the engine. Turn the ignition on and connect a scan tool to the vehicle. Clear any existing diagnostic trouble codes from the PCMs memory.

3

Turn the ignition completely off and allow the vehicle to cool for at least eight hours. The engine and the vehicle must be at room temperature to ensure a cold start at the beginning of the drive cycle. This can take up to eight hours.

4

Start the engine and confirm that the malfunction indicator lamp, or MIL, is not illuminated. Immediately turn off all accessories, such as the air conditioner and blower fan. The vehicle is now ready to begin a fresh OBD-II drive cycle.

The air filter in the 2003 Ford Focus PZEV 2.3L is different from a standard filter. A standard filter is a small paper cartridge that is placed inside an air filter assembly. The Focus PZEV -- which stands for "partial zero emissions vehicle" -- uses an air filter box with a special nonserviceable foam element inside. In order to replace this filter, you have to replace the entire box, which is fairly expensive. But you should only have to replace the filter every 150,000 miles.

Instructions

1

Lift the hood of the Focus and prop it open.

2

Locate the air filter box. It is the large black box just behind the left headlight.

3

Unbolt the air filter box from the air intake hose using the socket wrench and socket.

4

Remove the air filter box from the engine bay and place the new one in its place.

5

Connect the new air filter box to the air intake hose and bolt it into place.

Newer Ford Taurus cars are equipped with a car alarm that protects your vehicle from getting stolen or broken into. It is a good idea to arm your car anytime it is out of your sight. However, the car alarm can cause nuisance if it goes off when its not supposed to or malfunctions. It can cause panic instead of relief. Troubleshooting and fixing the problem with the alarm may help ease any frustrations and keep you from having to get your Taurus serviced.

Instructions

1

Check all the car doors to ensure that they are all latched tightly. The dome light in your Taurus will usually indicate if one of the doors is open. All doors must be secured before you leave your car to keep the alarm from sounding.

2

Replace the battery in your key fob. If the battery runs low, it can send unnecessary signals to your alarm system.

3

Make sure there is nothing is blocking the radio waves from your remote control to your Taurus when you are using it. Remove any obstacles between you and your vehicle.

4

Make sure you aim directly at the car. Some Taurus are not sensitive enough to receive signal from the car alarm remote control if you are a certain distance away.

Removing the differential cover from the axle on your Ford Ranger is the only way for you to access the gears inside the differential. If you need to change the gear oil, inspect the ring and pinion gears or replace seals and bearings in the differential, you must remove the cover. It will only take a few minutes and just a few hand tools to complete the job. In most cases, removing the cover is the simplest part of any job involving the differential.

Instructions

1

Raise the rear of your Ranger off the ground with a jack. Position a set of jack stands under the rear axle tube to support the truck. Lower and remove the jack.

2

Position a large oil drain pan under the rear differential. Locate the bolts around the outer edge of the cover. Loosen all the bolts with a socket and ratchet. Remove them one at a time, starting at the bottom.

3

Leave the top bolt in place and use a wide putty knife to pry the bottom of the cover away from the differential housing. Oil will begin to drain from the differential, so make sure the pan is under it and catching the oil as it comes out.

4

Remove the last bolt at the top of the cover and lift the cover off the differential. You can now perform whatever work is necessary before reinstalling the cover with a new gasket.

The Ford Econoline (E-150) model of van was introduced in the 1960s and had a major redesign in 1975 that lasted through 1991. As of 2010, models of this van are still in production. This van is still the base model that most commercial delivery vans are built off of, and it shares many chassis and undercarriage elements with the F-series truck.

Gas Tank Capacity

The original equipment fuel tank for the Ford E-150 van is a 22-gallon fuel tank. Replacement parts are available.

Gas Tank Placement

The E-150 places the fuel tank behind the rear axle of the van in the 1989 model; after 1992, the placement of the fuel tank was changed to accommodate a 37-gallon fuel tank.

Gas Tank Construction

Like nearly every gas tank made since the 1960s, the gas tanks for the E-150 are made out of steel, coated with zinc as an anti-corrosion barrier.

The oxygen sensors in a 1996 Ford Explorer gauge the amount of unburned oxygen present in the exhaust system. A signal is sent to the engine management computer. The unburned oxygen relates to the fuel mixture, and the computer makes continuous adjustments as a result of these signals. There are always at least two sensors on each exhaust system. If the vehicle has dual exhaust, it will have four sensors.

Instructions

1

Connect the code scanner cable end to the OBD port under the dash on the left side of the steering column. The scanner is needed to determine which sensor is defective. Turn the ignition key to the "Run" or "On" position.

2

Press the key marked "Read." The computer will display a five-digit code. Record this code. Cross-erence this code with the code sheet that accompanies the code scanner to identify the faulty sensor. Turn the key off.

3

Raise the vehicle with the floor jack and place jack stands under the frame. Lower the vehicle onto the jack stands. Disconnect the electrical connector from the faulty sensor. If the code indicated that the number 1 sensor is faulty, it will be the one between the engine and the converter. If the number 2 sensor is faulty, it will be the sensor on or behind the converter.

4

Remove the faulty sensor using the 7/8-inch wrench. Turn the sensor counterclockwise to remove it.

5

Install the new sensor and tighten with the wrench. Connect the electrical connector. Lower the vehicle with the floor jack.

The Ford F150 is a series of 3/4 ton pickup trucks that Ford has manufactured since 1975, and an anti-lock braking system, or ABS, has been standard on the F150 since 1987. The driver in a vehicle with an ABS normally controls the braking force that the wheels receive. In an emergency stop, however, the ABS module controls the brakes to each wheel depending on the speed of the wheel. The ABS module is part of the hydraulic control unit, or HCU, located in the engine compartment under the air cleaner.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the cable to the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench to prevent an electrical discharge during the procedure. Remove the air cleaner from the engine.

2

Remove the four fittings for the brake lines with a socket wrench, and detach the brake lines from the HCU. Disconnect the electrical connector from the HCU. Remove the mounting bolts for the HCU, and disconnect the HCU from its bracket.

3

Disconnect the electrical connector from the ABS module. Remove the retaining screws from the ABS module, and disconnect the ABS module from the HCU.

4

Install the new ABS module to the HCU, and tighten the retaining screws to 27 inch-pounds with a torque wrench. Attach the electrical connector to the ABS module.

5

Mount the HCU to its bracket, and tighten the mounting bolts to 80 inch-pounds with a torque wrench. Install the HCU bracket to the frame of the vehicle, and tighten the bracket mounting bolts to 18 foot-pounds. Connect the brake lines to the HCU, and tighten the fittings to 13 foot-pounds.

6

Connect the air cleaner with a socket wrench. Attach the cable for the negative battery terminal.

Depending on the year of the Ford Taurus, there may be two or more oxygen sensors present in the exhaust system. In the common 3.0-liter 6-cylinder models, there are four sensors. Read and diagnose the trouble code that set off the "check engine" light to ensure youre replacing the correct sensor.

Instructions

1

Drive the Taurus onto a car lift. Put on safety glasses and crawl underneath the car.

2

Locate the sensor you need to replace. Two of them are screwed into each side of the Y-pipe coming off each manifold; there are two more downstream located after each catalytic converter.

3

Unplug the oxygen sensor from the wire harness.

4

Remove the oxygen sensor, using socket and ratchet. If necessary, heat up the pipe surrounding the oxygen sensor with a torch for easier extraction. Allow the pipe to cool down before continuing.

5

Apply a light coat of anti-seize lubricating compound to the threads of the new oxygen sensor. Be caul not to get any of the compound onto the head of the sensor.

6

Thread the sensor into the porthole of the exhaust pipe. Tighten with the ratchet and oxygen sensor socket.

7

Plug the oxygen sensor wire back into the wiring harness.

The 1990 Ford Ranger 2.3-liter pickup uses a concentric slave cylinder, which is located inside the transmission. This means that the transmission must be removed to replace the slave cylinder. When you remove the transmission, if the clutch is older, it is a good idea to replace it at the same time, simply because of the time required to complete the job. You will need a special clutch coupling removal tool, part number T88T-70522-A, which is available at any Ford dealership.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the battery ground cable and lay it aside, making sure that it does not touch metal. Use the clutch coupling removal tool to disconnect the coupling at the transmission. Slide the white, plastic sleeve towards the slave cylinder with one hand and tug on the tube with the other.

2

Remove the lever, shim and bushing from the transmission with the appropriate sockets. Stuff a rag into the opening to keep dirt and debris from falling into the transmission. Disconnect the clutch master cylinder push rod from the clutch pedal with the appropriate socket.

3

Jack up the Ranger with a floor jack and support it on jack stands. Make a mark on the drive shaft and at the same place on the rear axle flange so you know how to line up the drive shaft when you put it back in. Remove the drive shaft at the axle with the appropriate socket then pull it out of the rear of the transmission. Plug the housing to prevent fluid from leaking out.

4

Unbolt and remove the dust shield from the clutch housing with the appropriate socket. Remove the wires from the starter and lay them aside. Remove the harness for the back-up light (near the starter). Unbolt and remove the starter with the appropriate socket. Unscrew the speedometer cable from the transmission and set it out of the way.

5

Place a block of wood on one of the floor jacks. Slide it under the engine oil pan and jack it up so that the wood just touches the bottom of the oil pan to support the engine. Place a second jack under the transmission. If you are using a lift, use a transmission jack instead.

6

Remove the bell housing bolts and washers with the appropriate socket. Remove the transmission mounting bolts and the damper retaining bolts and nuts with the appropriate socket. Unbolt and remove the cross-member.

7

Lower the transmission jack and, at the same time, work the transmission off its dowel pins. Pull the transmission towards the back of the Ranger then place it on the ground. If you are using a floor jack, you can leave it on the floor jack if it is stable on the jack.

8

Remove the clutch housing-to-transmission nuts then pull the housing assembly off the transmission. Remove the slave cylinder from the input shaft. Slide the new slave cylinder over the input shaft, making sure the tower part of the slave cylinder faces the transmission.

9

Reinstall the clutch housing. The clutch housing has notches that line up with the slave cylinder. Make sure the slave cylinder is located properly in the clutch housing notches. Clean the mating surface of the clutch housing and the rear of the engine, especially around the dowel holes, with rags and carburetor cleaner. If there are burrs that will not wipe off easily, gently go over them with fine-grit sandpaper. Clean the area with carburetor cleaner and rags after sanding.

10

Raise the transmission with the jack. Line up the input shaft splines with the clutch disc splines. Move the transmission in towards the dowels, adjusting the jack as needed. Push the transmission onto the dowels.

11

Install the bell housing bolts and washers. Put the washers in place so that the bolts do not damage the aluminum bell housing. Tighten the bolts to 33 foot-pounds of torque. Move the transmission jack out of the way.

12

Reinstall the starter and tighten the bolts to 17 foot-pounds of torque. Jack the engine up with the floor jack. Reinstall the cross-member, transmission mount and damper. Tighten the bolts firmly. Remove the floor jack from under the engine. Reinstall the drive shaft by pushing it into the transmission extension housing then connecting it to the rear axle flange. Make sure the marks you made earlier line up. Reattach the washer, lock washer and the nuts. Tighten the drive shaft-to-flange nuts to 70 foot-pounds of torque.

13

Reinstall the dust shield. Tighten the dust shield bolts to 8 foot-pounds of torque. Reinstall the starter, the starter wires, the back-up lamp wiring harness and the speedometer cable. Check the transmission fluid level. Add Ford manual transmission lube as needed.

14

Remove the rags from the shifter hole. Reinstall the gearshift lever, shim and bushing with the appropriate sockets. Reinstall the lever-to-cover bolts and the boot retaining screws. Reconnect the master cylinder push rod to the clutch pedal with the appropriate socket. Attach the battery ground cable to the battery ground terminal. Bleed the clutch.

When the exhaust manifold studs break on a Ford F150, the driver will notice a puttering sound on cold start-up because the backside of the exhaust manifold will vibrate, smacking into the engine head. Eventually the oxygen sensors can receive erroneous readings due to an increase in the oxygen passing over the sensor. This could possibly lead to engine performance problems from the change in fuel trim values. In extreme cases your check-engine light might pop on. With the use of pneumatic tools and a long afternoon you can take care of problem.

Instructions

Set Up

1




Determine which manifold is leaking by looking on the backside, closest to the passenger compartment, with a flashlight, for broken studs or visible black soot.

2




Evaluate condition of the nuts and bolts around the manifolds and the exhaust Y pipe, looking for rust. Spray all nuts and studs on the manifolds with a penetrating oil lubricant, such WD40.

3

Gather all of the tools and parts you will need to finalize the project so you dont need to worry about going out to get a tool or part once your Ford F150 is torn apart.

Preparation

4

Jack up the front of the Ford F150 onto jack stands.

5




Remove the wheel on the side where the manifold is leaking, using a socket and ratchet.

6




Remove plastic wheel wells, using ratchets and a pry bar.

Removal

7

Remove the four exhaust nuts that connect the Y pipe to the exhaust manifolds. Depending on the level of rust degradation on the nuts, it might be necessary to use extractor sockets to remove.

8

Remove the exhaust gas recirculation, or EGR, tube if you working on the left side of the manifold. Typically it will be so rusted you will need to cut the tube, using the metal hacksaw, as close to the manifold as possible. Otherwise skip to the next step.

9

Remove the all eight nuts from the exhaust manifold. When removing, dont be surprised if the stud turns and is removed with the nut or breaks off as you turn. Typically, the back nuts are the ones that will break off due to rust and fatigue. Then, remove any remaining exhaust studs that did not come off with the nuts.

10

Remove the exhaust manifold and discard the gasket.

11

Remove any broken studs by attempting to turn with extractor bits and a ratchet. If you are unable to extract, use the 90-degree drill, perably with counter-clockwise drill bits to assist in removal of studs, drilling a hole into the center of the stud, which might release it. Increase drill bit size, as necessary, to remove. Once the layer of rust on the stud is removed from the seat of the hole in the engine head, the stud will freely turn out.

EGR

12

Remove the top portion of the EGR tube from the EGR valve with a wrench, if you are working on the left manifold.

13

Replace the manifold if the EGR tube and nipple are so heavily rusted that you cant remove them.

14

Access the amount of rust and wear on the exhaust manifold. Replace if there is heavy rust build up on the face or clean by using the drill grinder.

Installation

15

Install new EGR tube and nipple if you are working on the left manifold.

16

Position new manifolds in place, over the gaskets, while lightly turning in the studs by hand.

17

Tighten the nuts top to bottom, right to left. In other words: tighten the top right, then the bottom right; tight the second from the right on the top followed by the second on the right bottom, and so on. Always start from the side closest to the back side of the engine.

18

Put the Y pipe back in place and tighten the bolts.

19

Reconnect the EGR valve to the exhaust manifold upper fitting.

There are only two bulbs in the taillight assembly on the 2002 Ford Explorer. The bottom bulb is the reverse/backup light, and the top bulb is the combination brake light and taillight. Two filaments are inside the bulb. The taillight comes on when the headlight switch is placed in the "On" position. The second filament lights up when the brakes are applied. This makes the bulb much brighter to warn vehicles behind the Explorer that the vehicle is braking.

Instructions

1

Raise the rear lift gate of the Explorer with the vehicle parked, the engine off and the headlight switch in the "Off" position.

2

Locate the two (upper and lower) taillight assembly retaining screws on the painted section of the side rail on the left (drivers side) assembly. Remove the screws with the screwdriver.

3

Pull the assembly outward away from the rear of the Explorer. The wire harnesses of the rear lights are attached to the sockets of the bulbs, but the assembly can be pulled out far enough to obtain access to the bulbs.

4

Turn the socket of the taillight/brake light counter-clockwise about 1/3 of a turn. Pull the taillight/brake light out of the taillight assembly.

5

Pull the taillight/brake light straight out of its socket, and replace it with a 3157 automotive bulb.

6

Reinsert the taillight socket into the assembly by aligning the tabs on the socket to the notches in the assembly, then twist the socket clockwise until it locks into place.

7

Replace the taillight assembly to the body of the Explorer, then replace and tighten the retaining screws.

There are a few reasons why your transmission could fail on your 1997 Ford Explorer, but none is more common than the transmission fluid being too low. Many people think that they have a major issue with their transmission when it starts slipping. You can troubleshoot your transmission before you decide to take it in for major repair.

Instructions

1

Idle the vehicle for about 15 minutes until the engine is warm.

2

Park the vehicle and set the parking brake. Let the vehicle remain running.

3

Lift the hood on you Explorer and locate the transmission filler tube and dipstick. It is generally located on the drivers side of the engine in the rear. It will be labeled with the word "Transmission."

4

Pull out the dip stick and wipe it with the paper towel. Look at the lines on the dipstick to find "Add" and "Full Hot." Replace the dipstick into the tube and pull out again to check the level. A low transmission level can cause major problems. If the fluid is full and it smells burnt, then your transmission could need a major rebuild or replacement.

5

Turn off the vehicle and let it cool down.

6

Slide under the vehicle with the flashlight and find the transmission. You will know the transmission because you will see the dipstick tube attached to it. Shine your flashlight all around the transmission and look for any wire connections that have become detached. You can also check to see if you have any major leaks.

Having a key cut for your Ford car can be tricky if you dont have another key to use as a template. When you need to have a key cut and dont have another key to work from, you still have practical options. Ford codes the car keys to the ignition tumbler. That coding is available to Ford Parts managers and service managers. If you need to have a new key cut for your Ford, and you have access to a Ford dealership, getting a key is a snap.

Instructions

1

Locate your nearest Ford dealership. If youre not sure where it is, navigate your web browser to ford.com and click the "Locate A Dealer" link at the top of the web page. Input your zip code in the search field and click "search" to see a display of nearby Ford dealerships.

2

Go to the Ford Dealers Parts Department with your Ford Cars VIN number, a state-issued ID and proof of vehicle ownership.

3

Request to have a key cut for your Ford car. The Parts or Service manager will need to see the VIN number in order to pull up the key code. Ford requires all dealership personal to verify your identity and confirm that you own the car before cutting a key; this policy is to prevent theft.

4

Your next step? Pick up your new key.

The "Service Engine Soon" (SES) light will illuminate on the Fords instrument panel when the vehicle is ready for routine maintenance. The On-Board Diagnostics (OBD) computer receives trouble codes from sensors positioned throughout the vehicle. The "E-450" code corresponds to a service issue. Address the issue that triggered the code, then reset and shut off the light with an OBD reset tool. This tool can be obtained from any auto parts store. Resetting the light yourself will save you money and a trip to the dealership.

Instructions

1

Locate the fuse panel cover under the steering column. Open it by turning the knob and pulling down on it from the top by hand.

2

Plug the end of an OBD reset tool into the port inside the fuse panel. This port will be the same size and shape as the connector.

3

Insert the key into the ignition and turn it to the "II" position. Select the "Clear Codes" command on the reset tool.

4

Wait for the SES light to turn off. Unplug the reset tool and turn off the vehicle.