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How Do I Replace the Slave Cylinder for a 1990 Ford Ranger 2 3L

The 1990 Ford Ranger 2.3-liter pickup uses a concentric slave cylinder, which is located inside the transmission. This means that the transmission must be removed to replace the slave cylinder. When you remove the transmission, if the clutch is older, it is a good idea to replace it at the same time, simply because of the time required to complete the job. You will need a special clutch coupling removal tool, part number T88T-70522-A, which is available at any Ford dealership.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the battery ground cable and lay it aside, making sure that it does not touch metal. Use the clutch coupling removal tool to disconnect the coupling at the transmission. Slide the white, plastic sleeve towards the slave cylinder with one hand and tug on the tube with the other.

2

Remove the lever, shim and bushing from the transmission with the appropriate sockets. Stuff a rag into the opening to keep dirt and debris from falling into the transmission. Disconnect the clutch master cylinder push rod from the clutch pedal with the appropriate socket.

3

Jack up the Ranger with a floor jack and support it on jack stands. Make a mark on the drive shaft and at the same place on the rear axle flange so you know how to line up the drive shaft when you put it back in. Remove the drive shaft at the axle with the appropriate socket then pull it out of the rear of the transmission. Plug the housing to prevent fluid from leaking out.

4

Unbolt and remove the dust shield from the clutch housing with the appropriate socket. Remove the wires from the starter and lay them aside. Remove the harness for the back-up light (near the starter). Unbolt and remove the starter with the appropriate socket. Unscrew the speedometer cable from the transmission and set it out of the way.

5

Place a block of wood on one of the floor jacks. Slide it under the engine oil pan and jack it up so that the wood just touches the bottom of the oil pan to support the engine. Place a second jack under the transmission. If you are using a lift, use a transmission jack instead.

6

Remove the bell housing bolts and washers with the appropriate socket. Remove the transmission mounting bolts and the damper retaining bolts and nuts with the appropriate socket. Unbolt and remove the cross-member.

7

Lower the transmission jack and, at the same time, work the transmission off its dowel pins. Pull the transmission towards the back of the Ranger then place it on the ground. If you are using a floor jack, you can leave it on the floor jack if it is stable on the jack.

8

Remove the clutch housing-to-transmission nuts then pull the housing assembly off the transmission. Remove the slave cylinder from the input shaft. Slide the new slave cylinder over the input shaft, making sure the tower part of the slave cylinder faces the transmission.

9

Reinstall the clutch housing. The clutch housing has notches that line up with the slave cylinder. Make sure the slave cylinder is located properly in the clutch housing notches. Clean the mating surface of the clutch housing and the rear of the engine, especially around the dowel holes, with rags and carburetor cleaner. If there are burrs that will not wipe off easily, gently go over them with fine-grit sandpaper. Clean the area with carburetor cleaner and rags after sanding.

10

Raise the transmission with the jack. Line up the input shaft splines with the clutch disc splines. Move the transmission in towards the dowels, adjusting the jack as needed. Push the transmission onto the dowels.

11

Install the bell housing bolts and washers. Put the washers in place so that the bolts do not damage the aluminum bell housing. Tighten the bolts to 33 foot-pounds of torque. Move the transmission jack out of the way.

12

Reinstall the starter and tighten the bolts to 17 foot-pounds of torque. Jack the engine up with the floor jack. Reinstall the cross-member, transmission mount and damper. Tighten the bolts firmly. Remove the floor jack from under the engine. Reinstall the drive shaft by pushing it into the transmission extension housing then connecting it to the rear axle flange. Make sure the marks you made earlier line up. Reattach the washer, lock washer and the nuts. Tighten the drive shaft-to-flange nuts to 70 foot-pounds of torque.

13

Reinstall the dust shield. Tighten the dust shield bolts to 8 foot-pounds of torque. Reinstall the starter, the starter wires, the back-up lamp wiring harness and the speedometer cable. Check the transmission fluid level. Add Ford manual transmission lube as needed.

14

Remove the rags from the shifter hole. Reinstall the gearshift lever, shim and bushing with the appropriate sockets. Reinstall the lever-to-cover bolts and the boot retaining screws. Reconnect the master cylinder push rod to the clutch pedal with the appropriate socket. Attach the battery ground cable to the battery ground terminal. Bleed the clutch.