Fix It

Replacing the key cylinder on the steering column of your Jeep Wrangler may be necessary if damage has occurred to the tumblers or pins inside the cylinder. A replacement cylinder is available from the Jeep dealer and can be keyed to use your existing key for a fee. The cylinder can be swapped quickly and does not require a bunch of specials tools to complete.

Instructions

1

Sit in the drivers seat of your Jeep and insert the ignition key into the cylinder. Locate the hole in the bottom panel of the steering column directly below the cylinder.

2

Insert a small screwdriver or punch into the hole in the column and push the pin inside the hole up. Turn the key and cylinder to the "On" position then pull the cylinder straight out of the column. Remove the screwdriver or punch from the hole under the column.

3

Turn the key to the "Off" position then withdraw the key from the cylinder. Insert the key into the new cylinder and turn the key to the "On "position on the new cylinder.

4

Insert the cylinder and key into the column the rotate the key to the "OFF" position. Withdraw the key from the cylinder.

Removing the gas tank from your 1989 Jeep Wrangler and replacing it with an aftermarket or original equipment (OE) replacement will only take a couple of hours and basic hand tools. Before you start, be sure the gas tank is empty (or as close to it as possible) to reduce the weight of the tank and the possibility of a spill. The tank sits between the frame rails under the rear of the Jeep, all the way to the rear of the frame.

Instructions

1

Position a jack under the rear of the Jeep and raise the vehicle off of the ground. Place a set of jack stands under the rear axle housing and lower the jack, allowing the Jeep to rest on the stands.

2

Locate the two nuts on the j-bolts at the front of the gas tank. Loosen the nuts with a wrench, allowing the tank to sag on the mounts. Reach between the tank and the body of the vehicle and remove the hose clamp from the filler hose on the top of the tank.

3

Disconnect the wiring harness connectors from the terminals on top of the tank and set them aside. Position a floor jack under the center of the tank to support it, and then remove the nuts from the j-bolts.

4

Slowly lower the jack and tank away from the frame of the truck. Remove the steel support straps from under the tank, and then slide the tank out from under the rear of the Jeep.

When performing repairs on a 2001 Jeep Wrangler, it is imperative that the correct torque is applied when installing certain bolts. The manufacturer calculates torque specs for the Wrangler based on a combination of bolt strength and the component it is holding. Torque values are verified by the use of a torque wrench that alerts the user of the proper torque through an audible signal, typically a clicking noise.

Lug Nuts

Lug nuts are very commonly just tightened until the nut no longer turns. Most inexperienced mechanics believe that the tighter the lug nut the better, but this is far from the truth. Over-tightening a lug nut stretches the threads of the wheel stud and can lead to breakage once it is heated from driving. This breakage can lead to the other wheel studs breaking due to excessive weight; the resulting domino effect can cause the wheel to fall off. The proper lug nut torque on the 2001 Jeep Wrangler is 110 foot-pounds.

Brakes

When performing brake repairs, each bolt has its own, equally important, torque specification. There are two sets of bolts on the brake system that have specific torque values: caliper bolts and brake hose bolts. The brake caliper bolts require a torque of 18 foot-pounds. The brake hose bolts have a rating of 23 foot-pounds.

Cylinder Head

The cylinder head on the Wranglers engine has a seal that must be torqued to the proper specs in order to seal correctly. The 2.5 liter 4-cylinder engine requires head bolts numbers 1 through 6 and 8 through 10 to have a final torque value of 110 foot-pounds, and bolt number 7 to have 100 foot-pounds of torque (see Resources for bolt numbering). The 4.0 liter engine requires bolt numbers 1 through 10 and 12 through 14 to have a final torque value of 110 foot-pounds and bolt number 11 to have a final value of 100 foot-pounds.

Exhaust Manifold

The exhaust manifold uses a compression-style gasket that requires proper torque to maintain a good seal. Bolt number 1 requires 30 foot-pounds and 2 through 7 require 23 foot-pounds (see Resources for bolt numbering). These values apply to both the 2.5 and 4.0 liter engines.

Oil Pan

The oil pan has two different fasteners, each having their own torque values: 1/4-inch bolts and 5/16-inch bolts. The 1/4-inch bolts require 85 inch-pounds of torque and the 5/16-inch bolts require 11 foot-pounds. These values apply for both the 2.5 and 4.0 liter engines.

Timing Chain Cover

The timing chain cover must be removed when performing timing chain maintenance. This cover has a seal and requires proper torque to obtain a good seal and prevent leaks. The bolts around the timing chain cover require 60 inch-pounds of torque on the 1/4-inch bolts and 192 inch-pounds on the 5/16-inch bolts.