Fix It

Although the 2010 Hummer H3 received a five-star rating for driver safety from the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA), minor manufacturing problems in older models have led to a few recalls by General Motors. The most recent recall, over hood louvers that could detach, affects 2006-2010 Hummer H3s. Registered vehicle owners should have received notice of recalls from the manufacturer.

Hood Louver

General Motors recalled 162,129 model year 2006-2010 Hummer H3 vehicles in April 2010 for a manufacturing defect that could cause the hood louver to detach. If the louver comes loose from the hood when the vehicle is in motion, it could cause a traffic accident or injury.

Air Bags

In November 2006, General Motors recalled select 2006 model year Hummer H3 vehicles for an airbag sensor problem on the passenger side. This recall affected fewer than 800 vehicles in which aftermarket leather seat covers were installed. The seat covers could interfere with the air bag sensors, potentially causing the air bags to malfunction or not deploy in the event of a crash.

Tires and Loading

More than 30,000 General Motors vehicles, including certain model year 2006 Hummer H3s, were recalled for misprints in equipment labeling that could compromise the safety of drivers and passengers. Tire and loading information labels on these Hummers contained errors that could cause the vehicles to be overloaded or tires to be improperly inflated.

The headlight replacement process for a 2007 Mazda 3 depends entirely on whether or not the specific vehicle has a turbocharger. Although both types use the same HB3 bulbs for the the high beams and H7 bulbs for the low beams, accessing the lights is what differs. As the headlights on any vehicle are important for the safety of the driver and passengers, they should be replaced as soon as they burn out.

Instructions

Accessing the Headlights (without Turbocharger)

1

Turn the ignition switch off and open the hood.

2

Rotate the screws counterclockwise and remove them from the headlamp assembly, using the screwdriver. Remove the cover.

3

Disconnect the electrical cord from the rear of the assembly.

Accessing the Headlights (with Turbocharger)

4

Turn the ignition switch off and open the hood.

5

Remove the plastic clip above the headlamp assembly and pull the slide mount up to a position where it does not interfere with the frame. If replacing the left-side headlight, remove the strap and take out the air filter.

6

Disconnect the electrical cord from the rear of the assembly.

Replacing the High-Beam Bulb

7

Rotate the socket and bulb assembly counterclockwise to remove it.

8

Remove the headlight bulb from the socket by pulling it straight out.

9

Disconnect the bulb from the electrical connector by pressing down on the tab with your finger and pulling the bulb upward.

10

Connect the electrical connector to the new bulb and place it back into the socket and the assembly.

11

Rotate the socket and bulb assembly clockwise to lock it.

Replacing the Low-Beam Bulb

12

Pull the sealing cover off of the headlamp bulb.

13

Unhook the bulb retaining spring and swing it outwards to free the headlight bulb.

14

Pull the bulb straight out and replace it with a new bulb.

15

Swing the spring back into place and reattach the sealing cover.

The Power Stroke engines are a series of diesel engines that Ford manufactures for its heavy trucks. Ford made the 7.3-liter Power Stroke engine from 1995 to 2002, primarily for its line of Super Duty trucks. The engines in these vehicles use fuel injection, requiring a high-pressure fuel system to deliver fuel to the engine. The fuel pump for a 7.3-liter Power Stroke engine is on the undercarriage of the vehicle.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the cables on both negative battery terminals with a socket wrench to prevent the inadvertent discharge of fuel during the fuel pump replacement. Open the drain valve for the fuel filter with a socket wrench to relieve the fuel pressure. Replace the drain valve.

2

Raise the vehicle with a jack and support it with jack stands. Disconnect the wiring harness on the back of the fuel pump next to the frame rail.

3

Remove the retaining clip from the fuel line and detach the fuel line from the fuel pump. Disconnect the retaining clip that attaches the brake lines to the fuel pump bracket.

4

Disconnect the pinch bolt from the fuel pump bracket with a socket wrench. Push the bracket open and remove the fuel pump.

5

Place the new fuel pump in the fuel pump mounting bracket. Fasten the pinch bolt to the fuel pump mounting bracket and tighten it to 13 ft. lbs. with a torque wrench. Attach the brake lines to the mounting bracket with the retaining clip. Connect the fuel line to the fuel pump.

6

Attach the wiring harness to the fuel pump and lower the vehicle. Fasten the cables for the negative battery terminals with a socket wrench. Start the vehicle and check for leaks in the fuel system.

The Chrysler Concorde was a full-size, four-door sedan with front-wheel drive manufactured from 1993 to 2004. The most common engine in the 1993 model was a six-cylinder 3.3-liter engine with fuel injection. The fuel injectors send fuel to the engine and are part of the fuel rail assembly. The majority of the fuel injector replacement procedure for a 1993 Concorde deals with removing and installing the fuel rail assembly from the engine.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the negative battery cable with a socket wrench to prevent the engine from starting during the procedure. Loosen the cap on the fuel tank to relieve the pressure in the fuel tank. Remove the cap for the fuel pressure test port on the fuel rail.

2

Place the open end of the hose on tool C-4799-1 into a container approved for gasoline. Connect tool C-4799-1 to the fuel pressure test port and open the valve on the tool. Allow the fuel to drain into the container to relieve the pressure in the fuel system. Disconnect tool C-4799-1 from the fuel pressure test port and replace the cap on the fuel pressure test port.

3

Detach the air plenum from the throttle body and the air cleaner. Hold the throttle in the open position, and remove the linkages for the cruise control and throttle body from the throttle shaft.

4

Detach the electrical connectors from the exhaust gas recirculation valve and manifold absolute pressure sensor. Disconnect the vacuum hoses from the positive crankcase ventilation valve and the fuel pressure regulator. Remove the brake booster hose and throttle body purge hose from the intake manifold.

5

Detach the electrical connectors from the throttle position sensor and the idle air control motor. Disconnect the mounting screws for the exhaust gas recirculation tube with a socket wrench and remove the tube from the upper intake manifold. Disconnect the mounting bolts for the intake manifold plenum and remove the plenum from the engine.

6

Detach the fuel line from the fuel rail by pushing the quick-disconnect fitting on the fuel line with Special Quick-Connect Fitting Tool 6751. Wrap shop towels around the fuel line and disconnect the fuel line from the fuel rail. Disconnect the clamp on the fuel line with a socket wrench and remove the fuel line from its bracket.

7

Turn the fuel injectors on the fuel rail towards the center of the engine, and detach the electrical connectors from the fuel injectors. Disconnect the mounting bolts for the fuel rail and lift the fuel rail directly up from the engine.

8

Remove the retainer clip for the fuel injector and pull the injector out of the fuel rail. Install new O-rings to the new fuel injector and apply a light coat of engine oil to the upper O-ring. Install the fuel injector onto the fuel rail and attach its retainer clip. Apply a light coat of engine oil to the nozzle end of the fuel injector.

9

Complete the installation of the fuel injectors by performing steps two through six in reverse sequence. Tighten the mounting bolts for the fuel rail to 16 ft. lbs. with a torque wrench. Torque the mounting bolts for the intake manifold plenum to 21 ft. lbs. Connect the negative battery cable with a socket wrench.

Dodge introduced the Caravan in 1983 and still manufactures the vehicle. This minivan was equipped with a 3.3 liter V6 engine that had an output of 158 brake horsepower, which is pretty impressive for a family car. The V6 engine was designed to have two head gaskets, one on each side of the block. The head gaskets must occasionally be replaced because a blown or a leaking head gasket may cause bad engine performance.

Instructions

1

Drain the cooling system and disconnect the negative battery cable. Remove the intake manifold and throttle body. Disconnect the coil wires, sending unit wire, heater hoses and by-pass hose. Remove the closed ventilation system, evaporation control system and cylinder head covers.

2

Remove the exhaust manifolds. Remove the rocker arm and shaft assemblies. Remove the push rods and identify each one of them to ensure re-installation in the original locations. Remove the nine head bolts from each cylinder head, and remove the cylinder heads.

3

Inspect the surface of the cylinder head. Remove the old head gasket. Before cleaning, check for leaks, damage and cracks. Clean the cylinder head and oil passages. Check the cylinder head for flatness. Inspect all surfaces with a straightedge if you suspect leakage. If out of flatness exceeds 0.00075 inches, either replace the head or lightly machine the head surface.

4

Clean all debris, coolant and dirt from the engine block cylinder head bolt holes. Failure to remove all foreign material may result in improperly tightened fasteners, damaged threads or damage to components. Install the new head gasket. To re-install all parts, follow the same operation in reverse.

The Acura 3.5 RL, also known as the Acura Legend, is a mid-level luxury car manufactured by Honda from 1996 to 2004. It had a six-cylinder 3.5-liter engine with multi-port fuel injection. This type of fuel injection requires the fuel pump to deliver highly pressurized fuel to the fuel injectors. The fuel pump in the Acura 3.5 RL is on top of the fuel tank and is accessible from the rear seat of the vehicle.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the negative battery cable with a socket wrench to prevent sparking. Open the filler cap for the fuel tank to relieve the pressure in the fuel tank.

2

Wrap a shop towel around the banjo bolt on top of the fuel filter. Hold the fuel filter with an open-end wrench. Loosen the banjo bolt slowly by one complete turn with a box-end wrench to relieve the pressure in the fuel system. Tighten the banjo bolt to its original position with the box-end wrench.

3

Remove the rear seat cushion and open the access panel on the floor of the passenger compartment. Disconnect the electrical connector from the fuel pump.

4

Remove the mounting nuts for the fuel pump with a socket wrench. Lift the fuel pump from the fuel tank.

5

Place the new fuel pump into the fuel tank and fasten the mounting bolts with a socket wrench. Attach the electrical connector for the fuel pump. Close the access panel and replace the rear seat cushion. Reconnect the negative battery cable.

The 4.3-liter six-cylinder engine in your 2002 GMC Sonoma is equipped with many ways to reduce the harmful emissions created from the combustion process, and the most effective way is through the use of the catalytic converter. When the converter becomes clogged, you will likely experience a drop in fuel economy and engine performance. Your converter is located under the passenger compartment and connects between the exhaust manifold and the muffler inlet pipe. To remove the converter assembly, the rear transmission support will have to be removed.

Instructions

Removal

1

Park the truck on a level surface and set the parking brake. Lift the front of the truck into the air with the floor jack and place two of the jack stands under the front frame rails. Lower the jack until the truck rests securely on the jack stands. Remove the floor jack.

2

Place a block of wood on the jack arm and raise the jack until the wood contacts the transmission pan. Pry up on the transmission wiring harness plastic retainer on the transmission support to remove it. Remove the transmission mount to support stud with the socket and ratchet.

3

Place the third jack stand under the converter assembly and raise the stand arm until it is high enough to support the assembly. Remove the bolts for both of the converter hanger brackets with the socket and ratchet. Remove the three bolts securing the transmission support to the frame rails with the socket and ratchet. Remove the transmission support, washers and reinforcement from under the vehicle.

4

Disconnect the truck wiring harness from the right and left pre-cat oxygen sensors and the post-cat oxygen sensor by squeezing the tabs and pulling them apart. Remove the two converter assembly to muffler pipe nuts with the socket and ratchet. Remove the three flange nuts for the right and left manifold to converter assembly mounting studs.

5

Support the converter assembly by hand and remove the jack stands. Lower the converter assembly and slide it out from under the truck. Pry the both of the rubber hanger and brackets from the converter assembly.

6

Mark each of the oxygen sensors with tape so they can be installed to the same location during the installation process. Place the oxygen sensor socket over the left pre-cat oxygen sensor, making sure the pigtail sticks through the slotted portion of the socket. Remove the oxygen sensor with the oxygen sensor socket and ratchet. Repeat for the right pre-cat and post-cat oxygen sensors and set the oxygen sensors aside.

Installation

7

Clean the oxygen sensor threads with a wire brush. Install a small amount of copper anti-seize to the threads of the oxygen sensors. Install the oxygen sensors to their respective fittings on the converter assembly and tighten to 31 foot-pounds with the oxygen sensor socket and torque wrench. Push the rubber hanger over the hanger arm on the converter assembly; allow the bracket to hang.

8

Install the new exhaust gaskets onto the muffler pipe and both exhaust manifold. Slide the converter assembly under the vehicle and position it under its mounting location. Place the jack stand under the truck and lift the converter assembly onto the stand. Balance the converter and guide the outlet end onto the muffler pipe studs. Install the retaining nuts hand tight.

9

Support the opposite end of the converter assembly by hand and remove the jack stand. Guide the converter assembly inlet onto both of the exhaust manifolds and install the mounting nuts hand tight. Tighten the exhaust manifold nuts alternately to 30 foot-pounds

10

Connect all three oxygen sensor pigtails to their respective wire harness plugs. Set out the transmission support bolts and place a washer on each one. Set the transmission support into place and hold the reinforcement plate in position on the frame. Slide the mounting bolts through the frame and hold them in place. Install a washer to the over each mounting bolts and tighten the nuts to 40 foot-pounds.

11

Install the transmission mount nut and tighten to 42 foot-pounds. Swing the converter hanger bracket up and hold It to the transmission support Install the bracket mounting bolts and tighten to 13 foot-pounds.

12

Lower the floor jack and remove it from under the transmission. Push the transmission harness retainer into its mounting hole on the transmission support. Lift the front of the truck off of the jack stands with the floor jack and remove the jack stands from under the truck. Lower the truck to the ground and remove the floor jack.

The thermostat in the 1995 Buick Skylark 2.3-liter engine rests inside the engine intake located on the top of the engine. The thermostat regulates engine temperature by restricting the flow of coolant through the engine. When the thermostat fails, it fails in the open position, meaning that coolant flows unrestricted through the engine and the engine cannot heat up to proper levels. When this happens, you must replace the thermostat.

Instructions

1

Drain approximately 2 gallons of radiator fluid from the petcock located on the bottom of the radiator into a clean drain pan. Use a pair of pliers to open the petcock if you cannot open it by hand.

2

Follow the upper radiator hose to the thermostat housing located on the engine. Remove the hose clamp with a pair of pliers and pull the hose off the engine.

3

Remove the bolts that secure the housing to the engine with a socket and ratchet. Use the ratchet extension bar supplied with your socket set to avoid hitting any accessories located around the thermostat housing.

4

Remove the thermostat housing and housing gasket off the engine. Pull the old thermostat out of the engine.

5

Clean the surface of the engine and the bottom of the thermostat housing with a clean towel. Use a wire brush if you cannot get the old gasket material off the surfaces.

6

Place the new thermostat into the engine with the large spring submerged into the engine.

7

Place the gasket over the thermostat and then bolt the thermostat housing back onto the engine.

8

Place the hose back onto the thermostat and secure it with a hose clamp.

9

Pour the 2 gallons of fluid into the radiator filler cap located on the top of the radiator.

The alternator in a 1992 Chevy Lumina is what supplies the power for everything electrical in the car. The cars alternator is also responsible for keeping the battery fully charged. When the alternator goes bad, none of this happens. Your battery goes dead and you wont be able to start the car anymore. The alternator works on the principle of a magnet moving across a wire inducing current flow and voltage. This voltage and current are internally regulated to levels that are usable by your car.



Changing the alternator in your front wheel drive 1992 Chevy Lumina is a fairly easy project that anyone with the proper tools can accomplish in a couple of hours.

Instructions

Removal of Old Alternator

1

Loosen and remove the negative battery cable from the battery, using the 5/16 wrench. Tuck it out of the way. Ensure that it wont move and make contact with the battery while youre working.

2

Insert the square drive of the ratchet into the square opening on the tensioner pulley and pull the pulley off the serpentine belt. With the tension on the belt released, carefully pull the serpentine belt off the alternator pulley and push it out of the way. Normally, you need to turn this pulley clockwise to release tension.

3

Loosen the two bolts that secure the alternator to the side of the engine closest to the bulkhead between the engine bay and passenger compartment using the ratchet and a 9/16 or 5/8 socket. You need to turn these bolts counter-clockwise to remove them. Set these bolts aside where you can easily reach them during installation.

4

Lift the alternator out of its location. There will be a two wire connectors on the back of the alternator. One is a screw terminal and the other is plug. Both of these need to be removed. Squeeze the connector and pull straight out. Use a 3/8 or 10mm wrench to remove the nut securing the large single wire. Set the old alternator aside as youll need to return it for a core refund.

Installation of the New Alternator

5

Connect the large wire to the lug labeled "BAT" on the back of the alternator and secure it with the nut and washer provided.Use the same wrench you used for removal to tighten the nut. Insert the two wire connector into the connector on the alternator.

6

Lower the alternator into place with one hand and, using the other hand, insert the bolts and thread them in as much as you can by hand. Use the ratchet to make the bolts as tight as you can. The bolts need to be turned clockwise to install them.

7

Route the serpentine belt back onto the alternator pulley and up to the tensioner pulley. Insert the square drive of the ratchet into the square opening on the tensioner pulley and turn clockwise to lift the pulley out of the way. Carefully slide the serpentine belt over the tensioner pulley and slowly let the spring take tension back onto the belt.

8

Reattach the negative battery cable. Use the 5/16 wrench to tighten the terminal bolt clockwise.

The timing chain on a 3.1L Buick engine turns the crankshaft in synchronization to the camshaft rotation. This engine is known for its reliability, but after tens of thousands of miles the timing chain can simply stretch and fail. This can seriously damage the engine and affect performance. Plan accordingly, as the timing chain replacement procedure can require a good part of a day.

Instructions

1

Remove the engine front cover. Rotate the crankshaft until the timing marks are aligned with the crankshaft sprocket, camshaft sprocket locator hole and the engine block. The number one cylinder should be at top dead center (TDC).

2

Unscrew the camshaft sprocket bolt. Remove the camshaft sprocket and the timing chain. Remove the timing chain. Use a crankshaft sprocket remover to remove the crankshaft sprocket. Remove the timing chain dampener bolts. Remove the timing chain dampener.

3

Replace the timing chain. Install the crankshaft sprocket using a crankshaft sprocket installer. Apply GM EOS P/N 1052367 or equivalent to the sprocket thrust surface. Install the timing chain dampener to the block. Tighten the timing chain dampener bolts to 15 foot-pounds.

4

Align the crankshaft timing mark to the timing mark on the bottom of the chain dampener. Hold the camshaft sprocket with the chain hanging down and install the chain to the crankshaft gear. Align the timing mark on the camshaft gear (center line of the locator hole) with the timing mark on the top of the chain damper.

5

Remove the Crankshaft Sprocket Installer. Align the dowel in the camshaft with the dowel hole in the camshaft sprocket. Draw the camshaft sprocket onto the camshaft using the mounting bolt. Coat the crankshaft and camshaft sprocket with engine oil. Install the camshaft sprocket bolt. Tighten the bolt to 81 foot-pounds. Install the engine front cover.

Ford produced an eight-cylinder, 7.3-liter diesel engine from 1995 to 2002. This engine was frequently turbocharged and typically appeared in heavier trucks, beginning with the 3/4-ton pickups. Each cylinder has its own fuel injector, which delivers fuel to that cylinder at high pressure. You can remove each fuel injector on a Ford 7.3-liter diesel engine independently of the other injectors without removing the fuel rail from the engine.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the valve cover with a socket wrench. Unplug the electrical connector from the fuel injector and disconnect the drain plugs on the oil rail. Disconnect the oil deflector by removing its mounting screw with a socket wrench. Disconnect the outboard retaining bolt for the fuel injector.

2

Place the fulcrum of the Injector Remover No. T94T-9000-AH1 above the cylinder head and below the fuel injectors hold-down plate. Attach the injector remover to the cylinder head with the remover screw for the injector remover. Tighten the screw until the fuel injector comes out of the injector bore.

3

Discard the copper washer on the fuel injector. Use the Rotunda Injector Sleeve Brush 104-00934-A to remove any sealant residue from the injector bore and clean the injector bore with a shop towel. Coat the new fuel injector in engine oil and install a new copper washer to the injector. Place the fuel injector into its bore.

4

Position the end of the Injector Replacer No. T94T-9000-AH2 below the fuel injector and above the hold-down plate. Align the threaded hole in the cylinder head with the hole on the injector replacer tool. Install the bolt for the injector replacer tool to fasten the tool to the cylinder head. Tighten the bolt to fully seat the fuel injector into the injector bore on the cylinder.

5

Install the oil deflector, fuel rail drain plug and oil rail drain plug with a torque wrench. Torque the oil deflector mounting bolt to 108 foot-pounds. Torque the drain plug for the fuel rail to 96 foot-pounds and torque the drain plug for the fuel rail to 53 foot-pounds. Attach the electrical connector for the fuel injector and replace the valve cover with a socket wrench.