Fix It

Your Toyota 4 Runner comes standard with a system diagnostic controller that contains a datalink connector. The connector can be plugged into an OBD II code reader that will read the trouble codes that the system diagnostic controller sends out. These codes will help you pinpoint the exact trouble with the Toyota. The codes can also be reset by the OBD II reader after repairs have been performed. The reader can be purchased from any auto parts store.

Instructions

1

Find the datalink connector under the drivers side dashboard, to the right of the steering wheel. Plug the OBD II reader into the datalink connector.

2

Put the key into the 4 Runners ignition and turn it to the "On" position, but dont start the vehicle.

3

Select the "Read Codes" command or similar type of command. Write down the numerical codes. Look the codes up in the readers manual for an exact description of the problem.

4

Unplug the OBD II reader from the datalink connector. Turn the ignition key to the "off" position. Take your Toyota to a mechanic to have repairs completed.

Several things can cause a fuel pump to begin to fail, such as electrical problems which can prevent an adequate amount of voltage from flowing through the circuit that supplies power to the fuel pump. The failing fuel pump can then cause other problems that vehicle owners should be aware of.

Vapor Lock

Residual fuel pressure should remain in a vehicles fuel system even if a fuel pump has quit running. However, a leaky fuel pump can allow the system to lose pressure rapidly. In hot temperatures, a vehicle can experience vapor lock if residual fuel pressure gets too low.

Pressure

After checking a fuel pumps pressure specifications, a test can then be performed to compare that with the current pressure being produced by the pump. A pressure reading that isnt high enough often indicates a weak and failing fuel pump.

Tests

There are several types of test that can be performed on a fuel pump to see if its failing, such as a dead pressure test which reveals the total output pressure of the fuel pump. Another test is called a fuel volume test which is helpful in making sure the fuel pump is supplying enough fuel to meet the engines needs.

The Sebring was a series of mid-size cars that Chrysler produced from 1995 through 2010. The crankshaft in this vehicle has a harmonic balancer, like most modern combustion engines. The harmonic balancer is essentially a counterweight that reduces the vibrations that occur when the crankshaft rotates at high speed. The procedure for removing the harmonic balancer in a Chrysler Sebring requires you to lift the engine to access it.

Instructions

1

Remove the cable from the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench so you dont inadvertently start the engine during the removal process.

2

Place a wooden block on a floor jack to serve as a cushion. Position the floor jack under the oil pan and raise the jack to support the engine.

3

Disconnect the three vertical mount bolts on the right side of the engine with a socket wrench. Lower the floor jack and reposition it so you can raise the entire vehicle while getting access to the oil pan. Raise the vehicle with the floor jack and support it on jack stands.

4

Unscrew the lug nuts from the right front wheel with a lug wrench then pull off the wheel. Remove the splash shield for the drive belt with a socket wrench.

5

Place a wooden block on a screw jack, and position the screw jack under the oil pan. Support the engine with the screw jack and disconnect the front and rear through-bolts for the engine mount with a socket wrench.

6

Lower the engine with the screw jack and detach the accessory drive belts from their pulleys. Disconnect the mounting bolt for the harmonic balancer with a socket wrench.

7

Connect special tool 8454 to the harmonic balancer and attach insert 6827-A to the special tool. Pull the balancer from the crankshaft.

The catalytic converter is an emissions device that prevents unburned fuel in the exhaust from escaping the vehicle and entering the atmosphere. Catalytic converters first hit the market in the early-1970s, but the U.S. Government made them mandatory on all cars starting in 1976. When a catalytic converter goes bad, it is not only bad for the environment, but it can also lead to you vehicle running very poorly. Fortunately, it is relatively easy to replace the catalytic converter on the 1988 Dodge Daytona.

Instructions

1

Raise the front of the Daytona, using the floor jack. Support the vehicle by placing the jack stands beneath it, perably under the sub-frame or another secure part of the vehicle. Slowly lower the Daytona until its weight is held only by the jack stands.

2

Crawl beneath the Daytona until you reach the exhaust system. Locate the heat shield, the metal cover over the exhaust, near the underside of the front seats. Loosen and remove the four bolts holding the heat shield in place, using the ratchet and socket. Pull the heat shield from the underside of the vehicle, exposing the catalytic converter beneath it.

3

Trace the catalytic converter toward the front of the vehicle until you locate the flange where it bolts to the front exhaust pipe. Loosen and remove the two nuts holding the catalytic converter to the front pipe, using a ratchet and socket. Pull the converter towards the rear of the vehicle, until it is clear of the studs on the front pipe, and pull the front of the converter down.

4

Trace the converter toward the rear of the exhaust until you locate where it is clamped to the rear exhaust pipe. The clamp is a basic U-shaped clamp. Loosen and remove the nuts at the bottom of the exhaust clamp, using a ratchet and a socket, and pull the clamp off. Pull the catalytic converter toward the front of the vehicle until it is free from the pipe. A light tapping on the pipe with the rubber mallet may help the removal.

5

Trace the catalytic converter until you locate the rubber hanger on the passenger side of the converter. While holding the converter, pull the rubber hanger from the converter. Once removed, lower the catalytic converter to the ground.

6

Place the new converter under the vehicle and place the rubber hanger on the passenger side of the converter, just as it was on the old catalytic converter.

7

Place the exhaust flange gasket on the end of the front pipe of the catalytic converter. Push the converter into the front exhaust pipe and hand-tighten the nuts on the studs.

8

Insert the rear pipe on the catalytic converter into the rear exhaust pipe, place the new exhaust clamp over the rear exhaust pipe and hand-tighten the nuts.

9

Tighten the front pipe nuts with a ratchet and socket, until the flange gasket is slightly crushed between the catalytic converter pipe and the exhaust pipe.

10

Tighten the exhaust clamps nuts until the rear catalytic converter pipe and the rear exhaust pipe are held together.

11

Place the heat shield back in place and tighten the bolts, using the ratchet and socket.

The Cummins 5.9-liter engine has six cylinders, and it typically has a turbocharger. The most common application for this engine is in heavy Dodge trucks made after 1989. The Cummins 5.9-liter engine uses diesel fuel and has fuel injection, which requires an injection pump. This pump keeps the fuel in the fuel rail at the correct pressure until it enters the engine through an intake cylinder valve. The installation procedure for an injection pump is similar for all full-size Dodge trucks made from 2000 to 2005.

Instructions

1

Detach the cables from the negative battery terminals with a socket wrench. Disconnect the bracket for the throttle linkage and remove the throttle linkage. Remove the fuel drain manifold and detach the fuel lines from the injection pump. Disconnect the fuel air control tube and electrical connector for the fuel shutoff valve. Remove the bracket and the oil fill tube from the injection pump.

2

Cover the opening in the injection gear cover with a shop towel to keep parts out of the gear housing. Disconnect the retaining nut and washer for the injection gear with a socket wrench.

3

Turn the crankshaft clockwise by hand until the key way on the shaft of the fuel pump points straight down. Push the top dead center pin on the crankshaft as you turn the crankshaft clockwise. Stop turning the crankshaft when the pin drops into the timing hole on the crankshaft gear.

4

Loosen the lock screw on the injection pump with a socket wrench, and remove its washer. Tighten the locks screw to 22 foot-pounds with a torque wrench to lock the drive shaft in place.

5

Remove the drive gear for the injection pump from the crankshaft and unfasten the mounting nuts for the injection pump. Remove the injection pump and its gasket from the engine. Clean the mounting surfaces for the gasket with a shop towel.

6

Install the new injection pump and its gasket to the engine. Tighten its mounting nuts by hand, so that the pump can still move freely within its slots. Connect the drive gear for the injection pump to the crankshaft. Tightened the retaining nut for the drive gear to between 11 and 15 foot-pounds with a torque wrench.

7

Turn the injection pump counterclockwise to seat the drive gear for the injection pump. Tighten the mounting nuts for the injection pump to 18 foot-pounds with a torque wrench. Loosen the lock screw for the injection pump with a socket wrench, so you can install the washer. Tighten the lock screw to 13 foot-pounds and remove the top dead center pin from the timing hole.

8

Install the bracket for the injection pump and tighten the retaining bolt for the injector gear to 48 foot-pounds with a torque wrench. Replace the oil filler tube and the electrical connector for the fuel shutoff valve. Install the fuel air control tube with a socket wrench and attach the fuel lines to the injection pump. Connect the fuel drain manifold and throttle linkage. Attach the cable for the negative battery terminal.

9

Turn the bleed bolt on the fuel pipe counterclockwise with a socket wrench. Push the button on the fuel transfer pump to bleed the air from the fuel system. Tighten the bleed bolt to 72 inch-pounds with a torque wrench.

You can easily damage auto wheels through accidents, curbing or general wear and tear. A scuffed rim or a combination of scratches can make a wheel look unsightly, but it is entirely possible to restore damage inexpensively.

Preparation

It is important to have a clean working surface, so wash the wheels thoroughly before beginning to work. Sand wheels with P320 grit paper to provide an effective key, and you must add spot putty to minor dents and imperfections. You can rub spot putty to the surface level after it dries.

Priming

Mask the wheel using masking tape and paper. Use two full coats of automotive primer to cover the entire wheel and leave it to dry in accordance with the manufacturers instructions. After the primer has dried, rub it down lightly with a soft sanding pad to provide a key for the paint.

Painting

You must apply paint using several light coats. Wheel silver has a tendency to sag or run if you apply it in high volume. Check the wheel during the painting process to ensure all hidden areas receive a sufficient coating of color. Leave the wheel to dry completely before unmasking.

Fixing the head gaskets on a Subaru 2.5 liter engine is a challenging task. It should only be undertaken if you have considerable experience working on cars and have a full set of automotive tools, both standard and metric. You should always wear safety glasses and gloves for protection. Keep a fire extinguisher in the work area for emergencies, and read through the entire procedure before starting work.

Instructions

1

Relieve the pressure in the fuel system as follows: Remove the fuel filler cap; Disconnect the fuel pump relay; Run the engine until it stops. Be sure to reinstall the relay when you have completed the repairs. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery. Be sure to disengage the security system before disconnecting the battery.

2

Drain the engine coolant into a container and save it for re-use or recycling. Remove the spark plugs, timing belt covers, the timing belt, camshaft sprockets and camshafts. Follow the procedures to mark the components in order to re-install the camshafts properly.

3

Remove the intake and exhaust manifolds (use the penetrating oil to loosen the bolts if necessary) and any other brackets, hoses or components blocking access to the heads.

4

Loosen the head bolts in the reverse order they are installed: Start with the outside bolts in an "X" pattern and loosen the center bolts last. The erence below will indicate the exact sequence. Remove the heads and place a clean towel in each cylinder to prevent contamination.

5

Clean the gasket mating surfaces caully and thoroughly. Install the new gaskets on the head locating lugs and install the heads with the bolts finger tight. Use the torque wrench and angle indicators in the tightening sequence and procedures to complete the installation process. Assemble the other parts in reverse of the order they were removed.

The 1997 Isuzu Trooper was available in three trim levels: S, LS and Limited. All three were equipped with a 3.2-liter V-6 engine that produced 190-horsepower and 195 foot-pounds of torque. The 1997 Isuzu Trooper engine utilizes three different belts to propel the belt driven engine parts. The tension on the belt is controlled by the swivel mounting bracket on the power steering pump. Adjusting the power steering pump will tighten the serpentine belt.

Instructions

Power Steering Belt Adjustment

1

Open the hood on the Trooper and set the hood prop. Position your body near the power steering pump, in the front of the engine compartment.

2

Loosen the power steering pump swivel mounting bolt on the bottom of the pump using a ratchet and socket. Loosen the power steering pump adjuster bolt on the adjuster plate. Push the power steering pump upward using a small pry bar between the pump housing and the engine block if needed. Tighten the adjuster bolt while maintaining pressure upward on the pump.

3

Tighten the adjuster bolt to 34 foot-pounds using a 1/2-inch-drive torque wrench and socket. Tighten the bottom pump swivel mounting bolt to 34 foot-pounds.

4

Step to the drivers side of the truck and start the engine. Press the gas pedal slightly to increase the engine rpm. If the belt still makes a noise, inspect the belt tensioner plate. If the adjuster bolt is at the limit of its adjustment and you still have a belt squeal, the belt needs to be replaced. If the belt noise still exists and you have room for more adjustment, tighten the belt by repeating steps 2 and 3, until the belt squeal goes away.

Alternator Belt Adjustment

5

Loosen the fixing bolt and the lock bolt on the alternator using a ratchet and socket.

6

Rotate the adjuster bolt in the side of the adjuster to add tension to the alternator belt. Tighten the fixing bolt to 16 foot-pounds and the lock bolt to 17 foot-pounds, using a 1/2-inch-drive torque wrench and socket.

7

Proceed to the drivers side of the Trooper and start the engine. If the alternator belt still produces a squealing noise and the adjuster is set at its maximum adjustment, the belt needs to be replaced. If the belt makes a noise and there is more room for adjustment, readjust the belt using steps 1 and 2.

Air Conditioning Compressor Belt Adjustment

8

Loosen the lock bolt on the tensioner assembly. Rotate the adjuster bolt to tighten the tension on the A/C compressor belt.

9

Tighten the lock bolt to 37 foot-pounds with a 1/2-inch-drive torque wrench and socket.

10

Proceed to the drivers side of the Trooper and start the engine. If the air conditioning belt makes a squealing noise, shut the engine off and readjust the belt tighter using steps 1 and 2. If the tensioner is set to its maximum outward position, the belt needs to be replaced.

The Zumo 550 GPS navigation system is made by Garmin for Harley-Davidson. Users and reviewers report the color LED screen is bright even in strong sunlight. The device comes preloaded with maps and directions to every Harley dealer in North America and it is intended to be mounted on the left handlebar next to the clutch lever, headlight dimmer and horn. The details of installation vary slightly between Dynas, Softails, touring models, V-Rods and Sportsters. It mounts on a Dyna as follows.

Instructions

1

Remove and discard the original equipment clutch lever clamp mounting screws with an Allen wrench. Retain the clamp.

2

Insert the new clamp mounting screws included with the Zumo kit into the GPS

mounting bracket. Insert the screw threads through the holes in the clutch lever clamp and into the clutch lever housing.

3

Adjust the hand lever position so it is comfortable. Tighten the new mounting screws to between 60 and 80 inch pounds of torque with an Allen socket and torque wrench.

4

Insert the mounting ball stud through the lower holes in the mounting ball clamp and the Zumo mounting bracket. Thread the lock nut onto the stud from behind the mounting bracket and tighten with an Allen socket and torque wrench to between 72 and 144 inch pounds of torque.

5

Insert the mounting plate screws included with the kit through the mounting plate and upper ball clamp so the screw heads face away from the rider. Place the upper ball clamp over the mounting ball so the holes align with those in the lower ball clamp.

6

Thread the mounting plate screws into the lower ball clamp. Sit on the motorcycle and adjust the mounting plate to the viewing angle that is most visible for you.

7

Tighten the mounting plate screws to between 36 and 60 inch pounds of torque with an Allen socket and a torque wrench.

8

Attach the cradle mount to the mounting plate with one of the flat head screws included with the Zumo mounting kit. Ensure that the cradle mount weather cap faces down when attached. Insert three more flat head screws through the remaining holes in the cradle. Tighten the screws with an Allen socket and a torque wrench to 20 inch pounds of torque.

9

Plug the round 4-pin DIN connector on the Zumo power harness into the front of the cradle and fasten securely with the mounting screws included in the mounting kit and an Allen wrench.

10

Route the Zumo power harness following the existing wiring from the left side handlebar switches to the center of the handlebar. Tie the harness in place with the cable straps included with the kit.

11

Unfasten the Allen nut that secures the seat tab to the rear fender with an Allen wrench. Remove the seat by pulling up and back.

12

Route the Zumo power harness following existing wiring through the triple tree and along the motorcycle frame to a general location under the seat. Fasten the harness to the frame with cable ties included with the kit.

13

Remove the hex nut from the ground screw with an open end wrench; the ground screw is located on top of the frame near the fuel tank. Attach a ring terminal from the kit to the ground screw.

14

Cut the black wire on Zumo wire harness with side blade pliers and crimp the ring terminal to the black wire with a wire crimping tool. Replace and tighten the ground screw hex nut.

15

Turn the handlebars all the way to the left and all the way to the right to ensure that none of the wire harness binds.

16

Grasp the electrical side cover on the left side of the bike (near the battery) with both hands and pull to remove. Slice open two inches of the main harness wrap with a sharp knife.

17

Cut the orange/white main harness power lead with side blade pliers. Splice the red Zumo wire to the two ends of the orange/white power wire with the blue, sealed, 2-into-1 splice connector included with the kit. Seal the connections with a wire crimping tool.

18

Replace the seat, tab washer and Allen bolt. Install the Zumo into the cradle mount following the instructions included in the GPS kit.

The standard layout for automotive PCV (positive crankcase ventilation) valves was developed when rear-wheel-drive vehicles were the only kind on the road. The PCV concept became common in all internal combustion engines, including those in front-wheel-drive cars. The 2000 Chevrolet Lumina is a front-wheel drive vehicle with a sideways ("transverse mounted") engine. The emissions control system in the Lumina engine is basically the same as in other cars, but the PCV valve is placed in a different location than on other vehicles. Locating the PCV valve on a 2000 Chevrolet Lumina takes just a few minutes and no tools.

Instructions

1

Remove the engine cover, if one is present. Disconnect the oil filler tube by grasping it firmly and rotating it counterclockwise. The tube will lift out at that point, and the cover will pull right off.

2

Disconnect the vacuum tubing from the PCV valve on the 3.1-liter engine. The PCV valve is positioned on the passengers side of the engine along the back firewall. You will notice the tubing connecting to the top rear corner of the valve cover. That is the vacuum tubing. The PCV valve pops out when pulled. Inspect the unit and replace as necessary.

3

Disconnect the MAP sensor on the 3.8-liter engine to access the PCV valve. The sensor is positioned to the left of the spark plug wires just in front of the alternator as you look at the engine. The MAP sensor sits on top of the PCV cover. Unclip the sensor. Twist the cover about 1/8-turn and pull it free. The PCV valve sits in the housing and just pulls out. Remove and inspect the unit. Replace as necessary. Installation is the reverse of removal.

You can disable the passenger airbags in your vehicle right from your home driveway, and it requires no special tools. Many vehicles come equipped with a key switch that allow you to disable the passengers airbag but not the drivers side airbag. To disengage all airbags, you can remove the airbag system fuse.

Instructions

1

Turn the key in the ignition to the "Off" position and put the vehicle in park. Apply the parking brake and pop open the hood.

2

Find the fuse block mounted on the right side of the engine compartment as you are facing the vehicle, right next to the drivers side fender.

3

Remove the cover off of the fuse block and examine the diagram on its underside. Find where the airbag system fuse is located.

4

Remove the airbag fuse by pulling it with your fingers from the fuse block.

5

Turn on the ignition and check that the SRS light is illuminated on the instrument panel. If it is, the airbags have been successfully disabled.

Chevy engine problems have led General Motors and the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration to recall 1,497,516 automobiles including 2000-2003 model year Chevrolet Impala vehicles equipped with 3.8L V6 naturally aspirated engines. This recall was announced by the NHTSA on April 8, 2009. Consumers were notified by General Motors of the recall in May 2009.

Type of Engine Problems

Nearly 1,500,000 General Motors vehicles with model years of 1997-2003, including model year 2000-2003 Chevy Impalas may have potentially dangerous engine problems. Per the NHTSA, some of these Chevrolet Impalas may have a condition in which drops of engine oil may be deposited on the exhaust manifold through hard braking.

Safety Risk

If oil runs below the heat shield when the manifold pressure is hot enough, the NHTSA warns that a flame may ignite and spread to the plastic spark plug wire channel and beyond. An engine compartment fire may occur, putting drivers, passengers and property in harms way.

Remedy

Chevy Impala registered vehicle owners should have received notice of the recall in May 2009, according to the NHTSA. Consumers affected by this Chevrolet Impala recall were offered free repairs by the manufacturer, as required by law. Authorized dealers were instructed to remove the potentially dangerous spark plug wire retention channel at the front of the engine and to install two new spark plug wire retainers at no charge to the consumer.

The Mercedes-Benz C class was once known for its reliability, but since the merger with Chrysler in the 90s, Mercedes as a whole has lost much of its engineering reputation. To that end, many of the 2001 C-class cars have endemic electrical and mechanical faults; the SRS fault being one of the leading issues. SRS stands for the supplemental restraint system and is supposed to pre-tighten the seat belts in the event of a crash, but in practice serves only to require periodic trips to the dealership to fix its faulty sensors.There is, however, a way around this.

Instructions

1

Buy a Mercedes-Benz code reader from a website, there are many available. Make sure the code reader has a 16-pin OBDII standard socket port. The 16-pin port is what the diagnostic port on the C320 uses. 32-pin readers can be used, but an adapter and rather complex software is needed. It is simpler and cheaper to just get a 16-pin reader. No batteries are needed, as the code reader draws power from the car itself.

2

Start the car and wait for the reader to flash the name of the code reader, then press the "Read" button. It will be the green button to the bottom left. It will flash the error code three times; after the third time, press the erase button. Depending upon the model of code reader, you may have to press "Erase" after every code or only once for all the codes.

3

Disconnect the code reader and turn off the car. Then turn the car back on and replug the reader to check to see if the erasure took. If it has, you are done; if it has not, you will need to replace the SRS sensors themselves, which only a Mercedes-Benz mechanic can do.

The 1994 Mustang was a popular performance car with over 120,000 produced by Ford. The Mustang was a two-door, rear-wheel drive car with a solid rear axle. The ignition switch is located on the right hand side of the steering column. Replacement of the ignition switch may be required due to switch failure or loss of the keys. Basic hand tools are required to perform replacement of the ignition switch.

Instructions

1

Open the hood of the mustang and remove the negative battery cable from the battery, using a wrench. Wait two minutes and use the wrench to remove the positive battery cable from the battery.

2

Remove the screws holding the drivers side knee bolster in place. Gently pull on the bolster to remove it from the Mustang.

3

Place the ignition switch in the "Run" position and leave the key in the switch.

4

Remove the plastic panel covering the bottom of the steering column with the Phillips screwdriver.

5

Lift the tab of the electrical connector on the ignition switch and separate the connector from the ignition switch.

6

Remove the two Torx bolts holding the ignition switch to the steering column and pull the ignition switch free of the steering column.

7

Place new switch next to the old unit and verify the actuator pin is in the same position. Insert the new switch into the steering column and attach with the two Torx screws. Tighten the Torx screws with the Torx screwdriver to secure it to the steering column

8

Snap the electrical connection into the new ignition switch.

9

Replace the lower steering column cover and tighten the retaining screws with the Phillips screwdriver. Position the knee bolster into the original position and secure with the Phillips screws.

10

Attach the positive battery cable to positive terminal on the battery and tighten with the wrench. Repeat for the negative battery cable.

A drill press is an excellent piece of equipment for the mechanic. Constructed with a stationary base and motor, a drill press features a spindle that is moved up and down with a handle. The drill press is much more precise than a handheld drill but it is also a far more powerful machine and there are safety considerations to take into account when using one.

Mounting

The drill press must always be mounted properly. On bench models, the base should be held with bolts that pass completely through the bench top. Do not use wood screws to hold the base in place. On floor models, the base must be mounted with lag bolts or similar anchors. This prevents the drill press from moving or tipping under load.

Clothing

The spindle of a drill press moves at high speed. Loose clothing can dangerously snag on the spindle. Even a low-powered drill press can easily pull the operator into the rotating spindle if snagged in this way. Because of this, many experienced drill press operators use to wear gloves when operating the machine. Gloves can too easily snag on the spindle or the drill bit. Clothing should be snug and should always include eye protection.

Clamps

All material being drilled should be clamped to the drill press table. This can either be done with C-clamps or by using the mounting slots in the table. Never try to hold the material without clamping it. The spinning drill bit can grab the piece and rip it from your hands.

Learn the Machine

Every drill press has the same basic design, but their controls are in different locations. The most important control, in terms of safety, is the stop button. Every operator should know exactly where the stop button is located. Users should also learn to operate the drill press while keeping themselves in a position where they can easily reach the stop button.

Chuck Key

The chuck key is used to tighten the chuck around the drill bit. Occasionally an operator will forget to remove the chuck key before starting the drill press. This can send the chuck key flying. A spring-loaded chuck key should always be used when possible. These keys have a spring-loaded tip that must be pushed into the chuck to work. When released, the spring forces them out of the chuck.

The PT Cruiser is a compact car with retro styling made by Chrysler from 2000 to 2010. The 2001 model has a pump that circulates water and coolant throughout the engine compartment to keep the engine cool while it is running. The water pump in a 2001 PT Cruiser is a mechanical belt-driven pump that receives its power from the engine. The replacement of the the water pump in a 2002 PT cruiser also requires you to drain the cooling system.

Instructions

1

Allow the car to sit overnight to ensure the engine is cool. Place a container under the radiator and open the drain cock of the radiator. Wait for the coolant in the radiator to drain into the container. Replace the radiator drain cock.

2

Disconnect the cable to the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench to ensure that you dont start the engine inadvertently. Remove the timing belt and sprockets for the camshaft. Disconnect the cover for the rear timing belt.

3

Remove the mounting bolts for the water pump with a socket wrench, and disconnect the water pump. Discard the old O-rings for the water pump.

4

Apply a thin layer of dielectric grease to the new O-ring. Place the new O-ring into the groove for the water pump, and ensure that the O-ring is properly seated. Install the new water pump and tighten the mounting bolts for the water pump to 105 inch lbs. with a torque wrench.

5

Connect the cover for the route timing belt with a socket wrench. Attach the sprockets for the camshaft and install the timing belt. Connect the cable to the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench. Fill the radiator with coolant and start the engine. Check the cooling system for leaks and repair as necessary.

The Toyota Previa muffler is not a hard one to replace. The hardest part might be locating the correct muffler for the year and model Previa you have. In other words, whether its a DX model Previa or an LE model Previa. Choosing the brand of muffler may be another challenge and then finding the availability of one. Toyota will have one for about $350 plus shipping. However you can find one in the aftermarket world for less than half of that with the same kind of warranty and shipped to you just as quickly. Bosal is a fine import aftermarket exhaust system manufacturer and you can purchase or order them through many local parts stores or find them online. Just make sure you have all the information about our Previa before you do.

Instructions

1

Lift the Previa all the way up on a car lift.

2

Locate the flange connection of the muffler inlet pipe just forward of the rear axle.

3

Put on cutting glasses and gloves and light the torch. Cut the two bolts on the muffler side of the flange connection until they are melted or cut below the flange itself. Turn off the torch.

4

Strike the muffler side of the flange with a hammer to separate the two flanges. If you have to, use the punch and hammer to knock out the cut bolts through the other flange. Once the separation of the flanges are complete, switch over to the safety glasses so you can see better.

5

Remove the muffler hangers (front and rear) from the rubber hangers on the frame of the Previa. Discard the old muffler.

6

Clean any remnants of the old gasket off of the pipe flange where you cut the muffler from using the gasket scraper.

7

Install the new muffler in the same manner you removed the old one. Place the rubber hangers on the frame onto the muffler hangers to hold it in place for you. The rear axle will hold the inlet pipe in place.

8

Insert the new gasket and connect the new muffler flange to the pipe flange. Connect with the 10 millimeter hardware placing the flat washer on the bolt head side of the flange and the lock washer and nut on the other side.

9

Secure the bolt head in place with the box wrench and tighten the nut with the gun and socket. Tighten one side snug. Then bring in the other side. Do not tighten one side securely first and then the other, or you may kink the gasket.

10

Lower the Previa and start it up to check for any leaks at the flange connection.

All cars have some sort of transmission, be it automatic, manual or continuously variable. Only manuals are erred to as "gearboxes," since they use only a set of gears instead of a series of clutches and shafts.

Purpose

Transmissions use differential gear ratios to multiply engine torque, helping the car to accelerate quicker at low speeds. Torque multiplication is directly related to the number of teeth on the input gear vs the output gear. Example: if the input gear has 10 teeth and the output gear has 30, gear reduction comes out to 3-to-1.

Basic Parts

A normal gearbox has an input shaft and an output shaft with a number of gears mounted to each. As you move along the transmission, the gears on the input shaft get larger while those on the output shaft get smaller.

Engagement

The input and output shaft gears are in constant mesh, but the output shaft gears simply freewheel on the output shaft until the driver locks the two together. When the driver engages the gear, a cog fixed to the output shaft slips inside a receiver hole in the output gear, locking the output gear to the shaft.

The heater core in your Saturn converts cool air into warm air by utilizing already heated coolant. The heater core has fins for air to pass through. It also has water tubes to let warm coolant cycle in and out. This process causes the air to heat as it blows into the passenger compartment. When replacing your Saturns heater core with a new one, look for the correct specifications in depth, height, width, and diameters to the inlet and outlet ducts.

Instructions

Removing The Heater Core

1

Disconnect the negative cable from the Saturns battery.

2

Drain the coolant mix out of the cooling system. If the coolant mix is still good, save it for when it is time to ill the system. Otherwise dispose of it properly.

3

Remove the heater hose coming out of the thermostat housing behind the engine block on the 4-cylinder engine. This hose is connected to the heater core pump on V-6 engines. Drain any additional coolant mix.

4

Remove both heater hoses from the firewall-heater/air conditioner housing by squeezing the tabs on the locking couplers and pulling.

5

Take out the right console extension inside the passenger compartment by sliding it back.

6

Use your flathead screwdriver to pry the tabs on the heater pipe clamps. Remove the clamps from the couplers, then remove the pipes from the heater core.

7

Unscrew the heater core strap-mounting screw. Move the strap to the side.

8

Firmly grasp the heater core and pull it out of its housing.

Installing The New Heater Core

9

Install the new heater core into the housing.

10

Position the heater core strap and tighten the mounting screw.

11

Place the new rubber O-rings on the pipes. Fit the pipes back into the cores appropriate inlet and outlet tubes. Install the clamps on the couplers.

12

Slide back the right console extension.

13

Install both heater hoses back onto the firewall-heater/air conditioner housing.

14

Refit the heater hose back onto the thermostat housing behind the engine block for 4-cylinder engines. For V-6 engines, it the heater hose back onto the heater core pump.

15

Refill the coolant system with the coolant mix.

16

Re-connect the negative cable on the battery.

17

Turn on your car and test the heater.

The simplest job you can do on a Harley is measure the shock absorbers. Depending on the year and model of your motorcycle, replacement shock absorbers can be found in lengths from about 11 inches to about 14 inches. Commonly, aftermarket shocks are sold in pairs that are described either as stock or as some measurement, up to 1 1/2 inches, "under" standard length. Standard length of the shocks on most recent Sportsters, for example, is 13.5 inches. So a 12.5-inch-long Sportster shock absorber would be sold as a "one under." Aftermarket manufacturers do not always agree with Harley-Davidson on how shocks should be measured; this is how Harley says to do it.

Instructions

1




Unload the motorcycle. Unload the saddlebags.

2

Bounce the rear of the motorcycle up and down several times. Ensure the suspension is free and not binding.

3

Measure the distance from the center of the upper shock bolt to the center of the lower shock bolt with a steel ruler.

Double flaring a length of tubing creates a burr-free connection in high pressure lines. The reinforced connection takes a specialized tool to create both flares. The tool creates both flares using different types of attachments. Using the tool correctly ensures a proper double flare and reduces the chance of damaging the tool used to create the double flare.

Instructions

1

Turn the compression fitting nut counterclockwise. Pull the fitting apart. Slide the compression nut over one end of a piece of tubing.

2

Remove the burr from the inside and outside edges of the tubing with a small round file.

3

Set the top of the flaring die on top of the flaring bar. Slide the end of the tubing through the flaring bar. Align the top of the tubing with the flange around the head of the flaring die. Tighten the nuts on the side of the flaring bar with an adjustable wrench.

4

Turn the flaring die over. Insert the shaft of the flaring die into the end of the tubing. Hook the flaring tool over the flaring bar. Insert the anvil of the flaring tool into the end of the tubing. Tighten the flaring tool until the flange of the flaring die meets the top of the flaring bar. Remove the flaring tool from the flaring bar.

5

Slide the flaring die from the end of the tubing. Hook the flaring tool onto the flaring bar. Tighten the anvil into the tubing until the anvil meets the surface of the flaring bar. Loosen the flaring tool. Slide the flaring tool from the flaring bar.

6

Loosen the nuts of the flaring bar. Slide the double-flanged pipe from the flaring bar.

The Ford F150 is a series of 3/4 ton pickup trucks that Ford has manufactured since 1975, and an anti-lock braking system, or ABS, has been standard on the F150 since 1987. The driver in a vehicle with an ABS normally controls the braking force that the wheels receive. In an emergency stop, however, the ABS module controls the brakes to each wheel depending on the speed of the wheel. The ABS module is part of the hydraulic control unit, or HCU, located in the engine compartment under the air cleaner.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the cable to the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench to prevent an electrical discharge during the procedure. Remove the air cleaner from the engine.

2

Remove the four fittings for the brake lines with a socket wrench, and detach the brake lines from the HCU. Disconnect the electrical connector from the HCU. Remove the mounting bolts for the HCU, and disconnect the HCU from its bracket.

3

Disconnect the electrical connector from the ABS module. Remove the retaining screws from the ABS module, and disconnect the ABS module from the HCU.

4

Install the new ABS module to the HCU, and tighten the retaining screws to 27 inch-pounds with a torque wrench. Attach the electrical connector to the ABS module.

5

Mount the HCU to its bracket, and tighten the mounting bolts to 80 inch-pounds with a torque wrench. Install the HCU bracket to the frame of the vehicle, and tighten the bracket mounting bolts to 18 foot-pounds. Connect the brake lines to the HCU, and tighten the fittings to 13 foot-pounds.

6

Connect the air cleaner with a socket wrench. Attach the cable for the negative battery terminal.

The new generation of the Volkswagen Passat was first introduced in 1998 on the North American market. The vehicle shares the same platform as the Audi A4 and features a 1.8L Turbo engine that has an output of 168-brake horsepower and 225 foot-pounds of torque. The timing belt is a crucial part in every engine and requires service and replacement if it fails.

Instructions

Removal

1

Bring the lock carrier into service position. Remove the tensioning element for the ribbed belt and the upper timing-belt guard. Mark the direction of rotation of the toothed belt.

2

Adjust the camshaft to top dead center (TDC) at the first cylinder. Remove the harmonic balancer/belt pulley. Take out the lower- and center-toothed belt guard.

3

Thread the T10092 tensioning bolt into the tensioning device for the toothed belt. If necessary, align the pressure piston before tensioning, using needle-nosed pliers or a thin wire (the hole in pressure piston and hole in housing must overlap). Tighten the pressure piston only far enough so that the pressure piston can be secured using a T40001 pin.

4

Insert a V.A.G 1331 hex torque wrench into the hex socket, and torque the tensioning roller nut in counter-clockwise direction with uniform non-excessive force until the toothed belt can be aligned with the mark on the cylinder block. Use the T10008 locking plate to lock in place the roller. To loosen toothed belt, loosen the nut of the tensioning roller by turning the wrench in the clockwise direction. Remove the timing belt and then turn crankshaft back slightly.

Installation

5

Align marks on the camshaft gear and the cylinder head cover. Pistons must not be positioned in top dead center (TDC) position. Install the timing belt on the crankshaft gear (note the direction of rotation). Install the lower timing belt guard.

6

Install harmonic balancer/belt pulley using new bolts. Tighten the bolts applying 7 foot-pounds of torque, plus an additional 1/4 turn. Rotate the crankshaft until the first cylinder is in the top dead center (TDC) position. Install the timing belt in the specific order. First, position the belt on the coolant pump, and then on the tensioning roller and, finally, on the camshaft gear.

7

Tension the timing belt by pulling out the T40001 pin and unbolting the T10092 tensioning bolt. The engine shouldnt be more than hand warm. If the timing belt tensioning device is completely extended, it must be pressed back in the installed position with the tensioning roller. This procedure can take up to five minutes. Excessive force during compression can damage the tensioning roller.

8

Turn the 3387-pin wrench in counter-clockwise direction until the T10008 locking plate can be removed without tension. Turn the pin wrench clockwise until a drill bit can be pulled through the tensioning lever and the housing of the tensioning device. Hold the tensioning roller in this position and tighten the securing nut of the tensioning roller, as you apply 20 foot-pounds of torque. Turn the crankshaft two rotations and check whether the camshaft and crankshaft marks align with their erence points.

9

Install the timing belt guard, the center and upper part. Install the tensioning device for the ribbed belt. Tighten it to 19 foot-pounds. Install the ribbed belt.

Struts are designed to maintain a cars balance on the road, especially when driving over rough or uneven surfaces. A car typically has front and rear struts.

Current Prices of Rear Struts

As of 2010, the price of rear struts for most vehicles ranges between $100 to $700. For luxury cars, prices can even exceed $1,000. Price ultimately depends on the make and model of your vehicle.

Extra Costs

In addition to the price of the struts, you will probably pay labor costs for their installation. Those charges vary.

Price Stability

The price of rear struts has remained stable over the last few years.

The control module on your vehicles ignition is an electronic device that controls the ignition spark sequence. The device resembles a fuse, and also allows your vehicles starter to fire up your engine. Though this device is durable, it is sensitive to extreme heat. Since most control modules are located beneath the hood near the engine, over time the module can go bad. If the control module goes bad, your engine will not start.

Instructions

1

Turn your vehicles ignition so it is in the off position. Make sure your gear shifter is in the "Park" or "Neutral" position, and that the emergency brake is engaged.

2

Examine the bottom side of the steering wheel near the wire harness beside your vehicles fuse box. In some cases, the module will be located beneath the dashboard. But in most cases the module is located inside the distributor cap beneath the hood.

3

Pull on the hood release lever below the dashboard on the drivers side of the vehicle. The release lever may also be located along the left side of the drivers seat on the floor. Get out of the car, and go to the front of the car. Pull up on the hood slightly, and locate the hoods release latch beneath the front edge of the hood. Lift up on the hood, and prop the hood up with support mechanism under the hood.

4

Locate the distributor cap on the engine, and loosen its retaining Phillips-head screws. Remove the distributor cap from the engine, but do not remove the spark plugs or spark plug wires.

5

Examine the revealed distributor area for the control module. It will either be mounted inside the distributor assembly, or on the outer section of the distributors casing. Disconnect the wire connectors from the module. Remove the Phillips-head bolts mounting the module to the distributor. Remove the bad control module from your vehicle.

6

Attach the new control module to the distributor assembly with the included mounting bolts and washers. Reconnect the wire connectors to the control module. Replace the distributor cap, and its retaining screws. Remove the hoods support mechanism, and close the hood.

An EGR valve is a factory sealed unit, so it cannot be re-manufactured, but the problems associated with a failing EGR valve can be solved by replacing the unit. The EGR valve (exhaust gas recirculation valve) is usually found near the exhaust manifold but can also be found elsewhere on transverse engines. The purpose of an EGR valve is to burn exhaust gases a second time to aid in emissions and help fuel economy. When defective, an EGR valve causes poor acceleration and rough idle. A defective EGR valve often makes a flutter noise.

Instructions

1

Locate the EGR valve. A schematic of the car engine is a great help in locating the EGR valve.The EGR valve looks like a small round can with a small hat on top. A digital EGR valve will have a wire loom connected to it; a manual EGR valve will have vacuum lines connected to it. The base plate of the EGR valve, which is on the intake manifold, is connected to a small metal tube that runs to the exhaust manifold. The EGR valve is easiest to locate by tracing all lines, other than the exhaust pipes that connect to the exhaust manifold. The EGR valve may also may be connected to the EGR solinoid.

2

Remove all parts that obstruct access to the two EGR base plate bolts. Unplug the metal tubes, any vacuum lines and electric connections to the EGR valve.

3

Remove the bolts that hold the EGR valve to the base plate. These bolts are usually 1/2 inch or 12 mm.

4

Install a new factory-sealed EGR gasket. Replace the valve gasket, using gasket sealer prior to re-installation. Torque the bolts to manufacturers specs (approximately 11 to 16 foot pounds).

5

Working in reverse, reconnect all tubes, lines and electrical connections. Replace all other items that were removed to reach the EGR valve.

The oxygen sensor on your 1996 Jeep Cherokee helps regulate the fuel consumption and emissions. The sensor is threaded into the exhaust manifold and monitors the oxygen saturation in the trucks exhaust. The Cherokees computer adjusts the fuel-and-air mixture combusted in the engine based on the oxygen saturation. If your truck begins to burn a noticeably greater amount of fuel compared to its normal fuel consumption, buy a replacement oxygen sensor from an auto parts store and change it at home.

Instructions

1

Lift the front of the Cherokee with a jack until it sits high enough to fit jack stands underneath it for support. Place the jack stands under the frame rails just behind the front wheels. Lower the Cherokee so that it rests securely on the jack stands.

2

Disconnect the electrical connection from the oxygen sensor. Remove the sensor with a wrench or oxygen sensor socket attached to a ratchet.

3

Spread a thin layer of anti-seize compound on the threads of the new sensor. Do not get anti-seize compound on the sensor head. Thread it into place by hand. Tighten the sensor with a wrench or a socket and ratchet.

4

Connect the wiring harness connection by pressing it together until it clicks. Lift the truck with the jack until you can remove the jack stands. Return the truck to the ground.

Replacing the flasher in your Jeep Cherokee may be necessary if the turn signals or the emergency flashers stop working. The flasher controls both operations, and if it fails it usually stops working completely. Replacement flashers are readily available from any auto parts store or Jeep dealer. The flasher is buried behind the fuse panel, so it will take a little time to reach but the whole job shouldnt take more than about an hour for most experienced DIY mechanics.

Instructions

1

Open the drivers door of your Jeep and locate the access panel for the fuse box on the end of the dash. Remove the fuse box access panel by unsnapping it from the right cowl side trim panel.

2

Remove the nut securing the right cowl side trim to the junction block stud with a socket and ratchet. The nut is near the center of the fuse block.

3

Remove the two screws along the edge of the right cowl side trim to the right of the fuse box using a Phillips screwdriver. Set the screws aside.

4

Pull the trim panel off and locate the flasher inside the junction block. Unplug the combination flasher from the junction block.

5

Push the new flasher into the block. Position the trim panel back in place. Install the retaining screws along the right side of the fuse box and tighten them with a screwdriver.

6

Install the nut in the center of the fuse block. Tighten it with a socket and ratchet. Snap the access cover onto the fuse panel. Close the door of the Jeep.

Combustion engines rely on good timing to run their best. Power, fuel efficiency and emissions can be controlled simply by adjusting the ignition timing. Late-model engine technicians will set your timing when the engine is warm but there is another way. Learn how to set ignition timing on a cold engine if you cant get the engine to start and run correctly in the first place.

Instructions

1

Turn the engine over using the current ignition setting. Listen to the engine as it tries to start. Confirm that you have enough battery power to start the engine and sufficient fuel entering the engine.

2

Locate the distributor. Find the retaining bolt at the base of the distributor where it enters the engine and loosen this retaining bolt so you can turn the distributor by hand clockwise or counterclockwise.

3

Turn the distributor counterclockwise 1/2 inch with your hand. Turn the engine over again to start. Feed the engine fuel by continuously pressing and depressing the gas pedal as needed if the engine starts but runs poorly. Remove your foot from the gas pedal to see if it will idle without your help. (Continue to step 5 if the engine starts and idles.)

4

Listen to the engine as it tries to start. You will notice a difference in the way the engine is trying to fire. Stop turning the engine over and go back to the distributor. Turn the distributor by hand clockwise 1 inch. This will be the opposite move in timing from the previous counterclockwise adjustment. Adjusting the timing one way or the other will correct timing issues that stop a car from starting. Repeat until you set the timing closely enough to start the engine.

5

Adjust timing by hand when the engine is at idle. With the engine running, you will hear the rpm increase and the engine will run smoothly when you move the distributor in the right direction to the correct timing. Go past good timing and the power loss returns and the engine may stall. Set the timing by ear and then tighten the distributor retaining bolt to keep the correct timing adjustment.

Exhaust problems are reasonably easy to pinpoint, but if not repaired, they can cause noise pollution or even pose a danger to the people in your car. Luckily, with the many good exhaust repair products on todays market, exhaust repairs are easily fixed.

Exhaust Repair Kits

A good exhaust repair kit should include steel plates, as well as steel seamless tubing fitted for a quick connection to the exhaust and the fittings. Some repair kits come with a high-temperature steel cold weld, resistant to corrosive exhaust heat and gases. An exhaust kit should also include a reinforced screen or bandage for extra support and easy to use and understand instructions.

Exhaust Bandages

An exhaust bandage fixes exhaust rips and tears and lasts for quite a while or even permanently. The smaller the leak or crack, the better a bandage fix will work. Exhaust bandages are made of epoxy-impregnated fiberglass or of ractory strips and are resistant to the high temperature and the corrosive fumes of the exhaust. An exhaust bandage is molded into the small holes or cracks of the exhaust. Then it chemically welds to the exhaust, muffler or tail pipe and your exhaust is repaired.

Exhaust System Sealers

An exhaust system sealer acts as a chemical weld or a ceramic seal and is meant for fixing small holes and cracks. It can be water-based and should be asbestos free. It sometimes contains fiberglass fibers to hold the sealer in place while it cures. Like any exhaust repair product, it should withstand high temperatures. Exhaust sealers should also be resistant to chemicals, solvents, aging and oxidizing.

Exhaust System Repair Tape

Exhaust system repair tape is made from aluminum and a high-temperature bonding agent. It stops the noise a damaged exhaust makes and will seal out dangerous fumes. It works well for smaller exhaust problems, but seldom is a permanent solution for larger holes or cracks.

Exhaust Repair Tools

For a do-it-yourself job, the car should be on wheel ramps or an axle stand. Eye protection is also needed since rust flakes or metal shavings can get into your eyes. Metal snips or cutters and muffler clamps are needed. If jubilee clips are used to clamp the new part onto the exhaust, a screwdriver to fit the clips is necessary. A pair of pliers to pry off the bad exhaust parts is also useful. A pipe expander or a crimper to fit the new part onto the exhaust is also needed.

A rear power window motor mounts inside the rear door and rotates a gear on the window regulator to open or close the window. By pushing the rear window switch, you are closing the power window circuit in the door and energizing the motor. Once this happens, the motor turns the regulator gear. However, if the motor burns out, you can push the button all day long with no results. Those with mechanical aptitude and an hour of free time can replace a rear power window motor without seeking professional help.

Instructions

1

Pluck the window switch and lock switch from the rear door panel with the trim tool. Pull the wiring plugs out of each switch manually before setting the switches aside.

2

Remove the rear door panel retaining screws with either the Phillips screwdriver or socket set, depending on the year, make and model of your vehicle. If the panel will not lift off the rear door at this time, you may need to pry the door panel trim pins out of the door with the trim tool before removing the panel by hand. (This too will depend on the year, make and model of your vehicle.)

3

Raise the rear door window glass by hand and secure it with packing tape in the fully upright position to prevent unintended glass movement. Manually pull the wiring plug out of the rear window motor.

4

Remove the rear window motor retaining bolts with the socket set. Pull the old rear window motor out of the door through the door access hole. Position the new rear window motor in the door and bolt it in place with the socket set.

5

Reinstall the rear door panel on the rear door by reversing the door panel removal steps. Make sure to remove the tape from the window when done before you attempt to open the window.

When replacing gaskets in an automobiles engine, mechanics will sometimes use a glue to help hold the gasket in place. If these gaskets fail and need to be replaced, you must completely remove the residual gasket glue so that the new gasket will rest properly and create a tight seal. You can effectively remove residual gasket with a chemical solvent and a gasket scraper. Use the solvent to loosen the glue, and then use the scraper to remove the gasket glue from the surface.

Instructions

1

Remove as much residual gasket glue as possible using a plastic or metal scraping instrument. Be caul not to gouge the metal around where the gasket glue is being removed.

2

Follow the gasket glue remover manufacturers instructions and either spray the remover onto the metal surface, or apply the remover with a paint brush.

3

Allow the gasket glue remover to sit on the surface and loosen the material. Follow the glue remover manufacturers instructions regarding sitting time, typically 20 to 30 minutes.

4

Scrape the gasket glue off the surface with the gasket scraper, once the sitting time for the glue remover expires.

5

Repeat this process as necessary to completely remove all residual glue.

Bilstein shock absorbers are available in many sizes and stiffness ratings, according to vehicle type and use. These mono-tube, gas pressure shocks self-adjust and maintain their performance rating with age or heat. The stiffness ratings of Bilstein shocks are grouped into five categories, with coded part numbers for each category. The categories are the 5100 series, 6100 series, 7100 series, 9100 series and 9300 series. The 9300 series codes begin with AK followed by four numbers--9312 to 9318. You may also find codes that represent the purpose of shocks, such as "S" or B8 for sports, "HD" or B6 for heavy duty, and "C" or B4 for comfort.

Instructions

5100 Series

1

Read the pix or first three numbers of the code. The codes in the 5100 series represent shocks for pickup trucks and sport utility vehicles, including Jeeps and prerunners.

2

Read the four numbers, ranging from 6092 to 6681, which follow the pix of the code.

3

Read the last two alphanumeric digits also called a suffix. You will find a suffix,such as H5 or H7 for the 5100 series.

6100 Series

4

Identify the pix for 6100 series which is B46.

5

Read the four digits that follow the pix. These four digits, 0349 to 1362, represent an 8-inch, 10-inch, 12-inch or 14-inch travel.

6

Identify coilovers in the 6100 series. Look for the pix, B46, followed by numbers ranging from 0204 to 0206, and ending with the letters OR or W.

7100 Series

7

Look at the pix of the 7100 Bilstein shock, which shall indicate either an AK code or B46. Bilstein shocks in the 7100 series, having an 8-inch, 10-inch or 14-inch travel begin with an AK code. An example is AK7108R. The letter "R" represents a reservoir shock type.

8

Look at the four digits that follow the AK pix code. These four digits will range from 7108 to 7114. The first two digits, 71, represent the Bilstein shock series number, and the last two digits represent the travel inches.

9

Read the one or two letters at the end of the entire code. You may identify letters such as R, S or SB at the end of Bilstein shock codes in the 7100 series to lect the shock type. The letter R represents a reservoir shock, S represents a Schrader valve shock, and the letters SB represent a short body reservoir shock, as in AK7114SB.

10

Look at supplies with 2 1/2 inch single rate spring hardware, for 10-inch travel coilovers. They begin with the pix B46. For example, B46-1103R is a 7100 Bilstein 10 inch travel coilover with a reservoir shock--distinguished by the letter "R" at the end of the code. Notice that the four digit code that follows the pix is not a 7100 code--it is 1103. VW, Class 9 and Class 11 codes are also different for 7100 series Bilstein shocks. They begin with B46 or AK and are followed by digits ranging from 0930 to 1170, ending with either letter S or R.

11

Learn optional valving codes for the 7100 series. For example, in AK7114R04, two digits are added after the reservoir type. These two digits form a suffix code, representing optional valving. For example, "04" represents a 255/70 valving. In addition, "01" represents a 150/50 valving, "02" represents a 170/60 valving, "03" represents a 180/75 valving, "05" represents a 275/78 valving, "06" represents 360/80 valving and a suffix code of "99" represents custom valving.

9100 Series

12

Read the pix of the 9100 series codes. A "B46" pix identifies 2-inch screw top shocks and a "B60" pix identifies 2.5-inch screw top.

13

Read the four digits that follow the pix. These digits range from 9110 to 9118 for Bilstein 9100 series shocks and have a 22mm shaft with T6 hard anodized screwtops and Aurora spherical bearings.

14

Look at the suffix. You will find the letters ST for standard body shocks, CLST for coilovers with spring hardware and BYST for a four check valve bypass shock.

15

Identify the 9100 Rock crawler series. The pix is B46, followed by a four digit number ranging from 9113 to 9118 and then "RSC"--which identifies a rock crawler shock. The suffix is 03, 05, 06 or 07 and lects the valving type found in the 7100 series above. The 07 suffix represents a 255/100 valving.

The Nissan Xterra is a compact sport utility vehicle intended for off-road use. Nissan began production of this product line in 2000, and the most recent generation of the Xterra includes 2005 and later models. The only engine available for the Nissan Xterra is a six-cylinder 4.0-liter engine, which has the oil pump on the front of the crankcase. You may need to replace the oil pump if your engine is showing unexpected wear, even though the oil is at its proper level.

Instructions

1

Remove the cable on the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench so that you dont start the engine during the procedure. Place a container under the oil drain in the crankcase and open the oil drain. Allow the oil to drain into the container and replace the plug for the oil drain.

2

Place a second container under the drain for the radiator and remove the drain plug for the radiator with a socket wrench. Wait for the coolant to drain into the container and replace the radiator drain plug.

3

Remove the mounting bolts for the upper and lower oil pans with a socket wrench. Detach both oil pans from the crankcase.

4

Disconnect the mounting bolts on the case for the front timing chain with a socket wrench. Remove the front timing chain.

5

Remove the mounting bolts for the oil pump cover with a socket wrench and detach the oil pump cover. Disconnect the bolts for the oil pump and remove the oil pump.

6

Install the new oil pump and fasten the mounting bolts with a socket wrench. Attach the oil pump cover. Connect the front timing chain and install the cover for the front timing chain.

7

Add a layer of sealant to the mounting surfaces of the oil pans and install the oil pans. Allow the sealant to cure for 30 minutes before you add oil.

8

Fill the crankcase with the proper amount of oil and coolant. Start the engine and check for oil and coolant leaks.

Replacing a car engines head gasket involves a major tear down of the engine. The procedure also calls for precise measurement of metal surfaces, and the technician may have to repair other parts of the engine as well to prevent future head gasket failures.

Scope of Job

While the head gasket itself consists of a single part, preparing the engine for its replacement represents a large-scale operation, according to Repair Pal. The repair technician must remove air intake and exhaust components, and drain the coolant. In some cases, the technician also must remove the timing assembly, valve covers and camshafts.

Precision

Replacement of a head gasket first requires precision measurements using a straightedge, according to AA1 Car. These measurements must indicate variations from flatness as small as 0.002 inches. Resurfacing a head usually requires the help of a machine shop.

Considerations

Head gaskets wear out for a variety of reasons. AA1 Car notes that anyone replacing a head gasket also should inspect the rest of the engine for potential problems and be ready to perform additional, possibly elaborate repairs.

You can install a windshield in your 1987 Chevy truck right at home, which should save you some money. If you see a long crack or significant chips in your windshield, you know its time to replace it. It is important to maintain the integrity of your trucks windshield because it protects you. Besides keeping debris out of your face while youre driving, the windshield keeps you from being thrown from the vehicle in the event of an accident.

Instructions

1

Wipe rust and dirt from the windshield frame with a damp towel. Put the new gasket in the sun until it feels looser and softer.

2

Fit the gasket snugly around the windshield. Make sure the side of the gasket that has the slit faces outside the Chevy. Locate the channel closest to the outside perimeter of the gasket. Run a thin line of sealant along this channel.

3

Spread petroleum jelly into the outer groove on the gasket. Put a little extra at the top center and bottom center. Insert a nylon cord into this outer groove. Start at the bottom center, leaving two long ends of cord hanging out in the center.

4

Place the windshield in the opening as you stand outside the vehicle. Make sure the cords hang inside the vehicle. Have your helper sit inside the vehicle to assist you in putting the windshield in place.

5

Ask your helper to pull one cord end slowly out and around the frame to bring the rubber lip of the gasket into place while you press the rubber gasket around the outside edge of the vehicle.

6

Wipe off the extra petroleum jelly. Allow the sealant to dry for two days before driving the truck.

Whether youve taken a hydraulic jack apart to fix it or simply to take a look inside, you can put it back together relatively easily. Since youre unable to buy a kit to assemble a jack, then the chances are you have a jack that you took apart and now cannot put back together. Fortunately, if you go about it systematically youll have it working in no time and you can check a few things to make it function better along the way.

Instructions

1

Assemble the piston. Both parts of the piston are long thin tubes. Generally, the two tubes will slide inside one another. One more piece will screw into the top of the piston to support the car --- although depending on your jack you may need to install this between Steps 2 and 3. While you are assembling the piston check the seals on both the inner and outer parts of the piston for cracks, pinches or breaks. Replace any damaged seals before installing the piston in the case.

2

Place the piston assembly inside the jacks case through the large hole in the top. Secure the piston in place by using the tank nut. This is a large nut that screws into the top of the case and holds the piston in place. Unless you have a very small jack you will need to secure this in place with a pipe wrench.

If you were unable to install the top of the piston to support the car, then you should do so now.

3

Find two small ball bearing-sized balls and two springs. One ball and spring should be slightly larger than the other. Locate the overload valve on the bottom of the casing of the jack. if you look down this hole you will see a two-tiered hole. The bottom tier will be larger than the small ball but smaller than the large ball. Drop the small ball and spring in first, followed by the larger ball and spring. Cover the hole with a screw or bolt to seal it.

4

Locate the hole for the release valve. This is a hole with a small gap or pin at the bottom. On some jacks you will install the cap so it touches the pin and on others there will be a small ball that sits between them to press the pin. Drop the ball in and screw the cap into place.

5

Stand the jack upright and locate a hole for the pump piston. This is either in the base in a floor jack or offset to one side in a bottle jack. Examine the o-rings and washers on the inside to make sure they are in good condition and then push the piston into place. Nothing holds the piston in the hole so there are no bolts to install.

6

Attach the handle to the top of the pump piston. This is done with a bolt or pin that connects a hole at the top of the piston to a circular holder for the handle. Attach the handle to the pivot point, again using a pin or bolt depending on the model. You may also find there are some other attachments for the handle assembly on the base of the jack.

7

Fill the jack with hydraulic oil by opening the oil reservoir cap and filling it until the oil level is about 1/4-inch below the level of the hole when the jack is lying on its side. Bleed any air from the system by opening the release valve and pumping the handle vigorously several times. Raise the jack to its full extent and then lower it normally. Repeat the pumping, raising and lowering process until the jack is extending to its full height every time.

8

Wipe the jack clean and test it by lifting a vehicle. Lower the vehicle again and check around the jack for any leaks of fluid. Check the fluid level again to make sure it has not dropped.

A bent pushrod can not only affect your engines performance, it can seriously damage other parts if the problem is not taken care of immediately. The reason being that if a pushrod is severely bent or it breaks, the pushrod could dislodge itself from between the valve lifter and the rocker arm and fall through the engine into the oil pan. It is not enough to just replace the pushrod. A technician must also diagnose why the pushrod bent in the first place.

Instructions

1

Remove the valve cover on the affected bank of the engine.

2

Wiggle all of the pushrods to determine which rod or rods are bent and mark the rod with a yellow wax marker.

3

Remove the rocker arm by removing the rocker arm nut over the bent pushrod -- if the vehicle is equipped with individual rocker arms. If the engine is equipped with a rocker shaft, remove the rocker shaft assembly by loosening the bolts that are attaching it to the head. Use a ratchet wrench and the appropriate size socket for the nuts or bolts being removed.

4

Remove the bent pushrod by pulling it up through the cylinder head by hand and set it aside. Inspect all of the other pushrods for wear or cracking if the motor is equipped with a rocker shaft assembly. If there is severe damage on one cylinder bank it is prudent to inspect the other bank for damage.

5

Inspect the rocker shaft and all of the rocker arms and springs on the shaft for damage and replace any worn or broken parts, as necessary.

6

Inspect the valve springs for breakage or damage. Inspect the visible portion of the valve shaft to ensure that they are straight and not excessively worn down.

7

Install a new pushrod in place of the bent one and reinstall the other pushrods by placing them through the cylinder head by hand, making sure that they all seat in the valve lifter. Reinstall either the rocker shaft assembly or the rocker arm making sure that all of the pushrods remain seated in both the valve lifters and rocker arms or shaft.

8

Start the engine and adjust the valves if not equipped with a rocker shaft. Observe the operation of the rocker arms and pushrods to ensure that they are working properly.

9

Replace the valve cover and valve cover gasket. Clean all oil off the engine compartment.

10

Test drive the vehicle to ensure that there are no further problems. Check the valve covers for leaks.

Depending on the year of the Ford Taurus, there may be two or more oxygen sensors present in the exhaust system. In the common 3.0-liter 6-cylinder models, there are four sensors. Read and diagnose the trouble code that set off the "check engine" light to ensure youre replacing the correct sensor.

Instructions

1

Drive the Taurus onto a car lift. Put on safety glasses and crawl underneath the car.

2

Locate the sensor you need to replace. Two of them are screwed into each side of the Y-pipe coming off each manifold; there are two more downstream located after each catalytic converter.

3

Unplug the oxygen sensor from the wire harness.

4

Remove the oxygen sensor, using socket and ratchet. If necessary, heat up the pipe surrounding the oxygen sensor with a torch for easier extraction. Allow the pipe to cool down before continuing.

5

Apply a light coat of anti-seize lubricating compound to the threads of the new oxygen sensor. Be caul not to get any of the compound onto the head of the sensor.

6

Thread the sensor into the porthole of the exhaust pipe. Tighten with the ratchet and oxygen sensor socket.

7

Plug the oxygen sensor wire back into the wiring harness.

The Chevrolet Impala debuted in 1957. After several production halts, the 2000 model year began with the body style and series that the 2003 Impala uses. The 2003 Impalas upholstery includes adjustable headrests on the front seats. You can slide the headrest adjustments up as needed to remove them from the seat, saving you the cost of automotive detailing.

Instructions

1

Locate the tabs on the inside edge of the round guides around the mounting hole where the headrest posts lock in place.

2

Press both retaining tabs while sliding the headrest up away from the seat back until it stops.

3

Hold the retaining tabs in and pull up firmly to remove the headrest from the seat back.

4

Align the headrest with the mounting holes before reassembly. Press the retaining tabs and hold them while you slide the headrest back into place.

Chrysler manufactures trucks under the Dodge brand, including compact trucks, midsize trucks and full-size pickups. The procedure for changing the oil pump on a Dodge truck depends upon the type of engine in the truck. Dodge trucks have a variety of engines, with a six-cylinder, 3.9-liter engine being typical for a 96 Dakota. The oil pump for this engine is attached to the rear bearing cap, which is accessible from beneath the vehicle.

Instructions

1

Detach the cable from the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench. Raise the vehicle with a jack and support it on jack stands. Place a drain pan below the oil drain. Remove the plug for the oil drain with a socket wrench. Allow the oil to drain into the pan and replace the drain plug.

2

Disconnect the mounting bolts for the oil pan with a socket wrench. Remove the drain pan and discard the gasket. Remove the screen for the oil pump with a socket wrench. Disconnect the bolts that fasten the oil pump to the rear main bearing cap. Detach the oil pump from the vehicle.

3

Pour clean engine oil into the intake of the new oil pump. Turn the driveshaft of the oil pump manually until the oil exits the pressure port of the oil pump. Continue turning the driveshaft until no air bubbles are present in the oil.

4

Hold the oil pump against the rear main bearing cap and tighten the mounting bolts to 130 foot-pounds with a torque wrench. Connect the screen to the oil pump. Mount a new gasket to the oil pan and install the oil pan.

5

Lower the vehicle and connect the cable to the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench. Check the vehicle for oil leaks.

The car alarm on your 2000 Windstar minivan is wired into your vans battery. When you are making a repair to your car such as a battery change out your alarm can go off. You can easily disable the Windstars car alarm by disconnecting the battery from the alarm. The battery is connected to the Windstar batterys negative terminal. Disconnecting the terminal from the battery will disable the alarm.

Instructions

1

Raise the hood of the Windstar to gain access to the battery.

2

Loosen the negative battery terminal labeled with a "-" with a socket wrench.

3

Disconnect the terminal from the battery to disable the alarm system.

The NP229 transfer case was manufactured by the New Process Gear Division of Chrysler, also known as the New Venture Gear Company. The unit was used by Jeep from 1982 through 1991 as their "Selec-Trac" option.

NP229 Basics

The NP229 is a part-time unit with an aluminum case. It is chain-driven and features an offset output. As a part-time 4WD case, it should only be used in 4WD mode when on a slippery surface. This is because the front and rear axles are locked together, and binding may occur on regular surfaces, causing damage to the driveline.

NP229 Applications

The NP229 transfer case was installed in XJ Jeep Cherokees and XJ Jeep Wagoneers from 1984 to 1987. The case was also used in full-size Jeeps as the "Selec-Trac" option from 1982 to 1991.

Unique Feature

The NP229 used vacuum and mechanical shift with viscous coupling. A vacuum-actuated switch was installed on the center console or dash to change between 2WD and 4WD. This switch was routed directly to the transfer case. Early models featured a lock-out mechanism to prevent on-the-fly switching, which would result in severe damage to the unit.

The purpose of installing an exhaust system on your vehicle is to reduce the amount of toxic emissions from your engine and to help reduce the noise level generated by your engine. Having a good exhaust system can also increase your engines performance. This can increase horsepower and the gas mileage of your car or truck. This project if fairly easy and can be done at home in your drive or garage with a simple set of tools.

Instructions

1

Take a pad of steel wool and caully clean the mounting surface that attaches the exhaust system to the engine headers of the vehicle.

2

Put the exhaust gasket on the mounting surface of the header. Align the mounting holes of the exhaust system with the holes on the engine header. Insert the mounting bolts and use your hands to loosely tighten them in place.

3

Connect the exhaust system to your cars exhaust hangers. These hangers have a rubber loop at the bottom. Take the metal hook from the exhaust system and attach it to the loop.

4

Use a socket wrench to finish tightening the bolts that are connecting the exhaust system to the headers on the engine.

5

Remove the jack stands and use the jack to lower the car back down to the ground.

A water pump on a 1997 Chevrolet Blazer passes coolant through the radiator to the engine. The coolant temperature is lowered in the radiator by air passing through the grill and fan. At that point, the coolant is passed through the water pump and into the engine to cool the engines temperature. When the water pump breaks, water cant get to the engine. This will make the engine overheat and could cause serious problems if not taken care of immediately. Replacing a water pump is something that can be done at home in a garage in about an hour.

Instructions

1

Pull your car into the garage, and turn it off. Open the hood, and take off the negative ("-") battery cable.

2

Put a bucket under the radiator, and position it so that its centered under the drain plug. Pull the drain plug, and let all of the coolant drain out. When there is no more coolant in the truck, reconnect the drain plug.

3

Remove the bolts connecting the radiator shroud to the frame. Do this by getting the right size socket and turning the bolts counterclockwise. When the bolts are off, the shroud will come off easily by hand.

4

Check the fan shroud for a diagram of the routing of the serpentine belt. If there is no diagram, grab a piece of scrap paper and pen and draw a diagram so that you will know how to put the serpentine belt back on when your putting the new water pump on.

5

Find the right-sized socket that fits the pulley tensioner bolt, and loosen it just enough to remove the belt from the water pump pulley.

6

Take the radiator and heater hoses off of the water pump. Squeeze the clamp with a pair of needle-nose pliers so that it gets bigger, and move it down the hose. Pull the hose from the water pump. The heater hose is located on top of the water pump, and the radiator hose is on the bottom of the water pump.

7

Remove the bolts holding the water pump to the engine. You need to turn them counterclockwise. If you cant remove the water pump after you have removed the bolts, then take a rubber hammer and tap on the pump until it becomes loose.

8

Put paint thinner on a rag, and clean off any of the old gasket from the engine. This will ensure a tight seal of the new gasket.

9

Put some RTV sealant on the new gasket, and put the gasket on the new water pump. Put the new water pump back into the engine, and finger tighten the bolts. Use your torque wrench to make the bolts tight.

10

Reinstall the radiator and heater hoses on to the water pump. The radiator hose goes on the bottom and the heater hose gets attached to the top of the water pump.

11

Put the serpentine belt back onto the water pump. Make sure that you check your diagram to see that you are putting the belt on correctly. Turn the tensioner bolt clockwise while using a pry bar to pull the water pump toward you.

12

Reinstall the radiator shroud by turning the bolts clockwise.

13

Reconnect the negative battery cable.

14

Turn the car on, and let it run until it gets to running temperature. That way any air in the lines will escape out of the open radiator. When you are satisfied that there isnt any more air, then you can put the cap back on the radiator; make sure that the cap is tight.

In 1989 Saab was the first car manufacturer to offer a Supplemental Restraint System, or SRS as standard in its 900 model. The system included two airbags, one located in the steering wheel to protect the driver and another in the dash designed for the front seat passenger. Since then, SRS systems have become the industry norm. Because the technology was new, SRS failure lights are a common annoyance for owners of many Saabs made through out the 1990s. While many are false alarms and can be fixed simply, others can be serious and should be addressed by a mechanic only.

Instructions

Disconnecting the Battery

1

Set the hand brake, remove the key from the ignition switch, and open the hood.

2

Disconnect the negative battery lead from the battery terminal using the adjustable wrench first, then disconnect the positive lead. Usually the negative lead is black and the positive lead is red.

3

Put on the rubber gloves. Sand the battery terminals and leads until they appear shiny and there is no noticeable corrosion left.

4

Reconnect the battery leads using the adjustable wrench. Close the hood and turn on the car to see if the SRS light has been turned off. Take the car for a short test drive to see if it comes back on.

An AC condenser is one of several parts that work together to form a vehicles AC system. Pressurized gases that have gone into the condenser come out of it as liquid rigerant and are then utilized by the rest of the system.

Location

An AC condenser looks somewhat like a radiator only a bit smaller. Although its location can vary according to vehicle type, its usually positioned slightly under the vehicles grill, with the radiator located right behind it.

Cooling

There are several benefits awarded to a condenser because of its location. When air flows through the grill of a vehicle, a condenser will use this to assist it with the cooling of rigerant. Its location near the radiators fan also brings about extra cooling assistance.

Collecting

An AC compressor is known to let out all kinds of debris when it is in use. Because of a condensers low position, it is able to effectively catch and collect much of this debris and oil before it has a chance to spread to other parts of the system.

Racing an engine to remove air is a method used to remove bubbles of air trapped within the coolant system of an automobile after you change the coolant. In order for the thermostat to work correctly, you must purge the system of air. Otherwise, the thermostat experiences pockets of air that disrupt the heating and cooling process. If you leave this process unchecked, it could cause expensive engine damage.

Instructions

1

Remove the radiator cap from the filler spout on the radiator. If your vehicle does not have a radiator cap, lift the cap off the expansion tank for the radiator.

2

Turn on the engine, rev it to approximately 3,000 RPM until the radiator fan turns on for a period of one minute, and then turn the vehicle off. The fan turning on is an indicator that the thermostat is in the open position, circulating the coolant through the engine. The air goes to the least path of resistance. In the coolant system, that is the hole in the filler spout.

3

Check the fluid level in the radiator. The level should be slightly lower than normal. Fill the fluid to within an inch of the top of the spout.

4

Repeat step two and three a second time and then place the cap back on the radiator.

You can read the codes on a 1989 Toyota 22RE using an OBD I code reader. An On-Board Diagnostics computer monitors all the functions of the Toyota. It illuminates a warning or service light on the instrument panel when it receives trouble codes from sensors positioned throughout the vehicle, This OBD I code reader is used to retrieve these codes. It is also used to reset the computer after repairs are made to the Toyota.

Instructions

1

Plug the OBD I code reader into the diagnostic port on the driver-side dashboard near the steering column. Dont force it in or you may bend the pins inside.

2

Put the key into the ignition and turn it to the "II" position. This will power most code readers. If not, look for an "on/off" switch on the code reader. Turn it on. Wait while the OBD I code reader retrieves the codes.

3

Write down the codes on a piece of paper. Look up the codes in the code readers manual to determine their meaning.