Fix It

Blown reverse light bulbs are the most common reason that your 1996 Volkswagen Jettas reverse lights will not illuminate. At its core, however, the reverse light system is controlled by a simple two-wire switch, called a reverse or back-up switch, attached to the transmission. When the switch fails, it will prevent the lights from illuminating at all. Removing and replacing the reverse switch, while outwardly simple, requires removal of the battery box and air box to provide enough clearance for your tools.

Instructions

1

Park the Jetta and set the parking brake. Let the engine cool for at least one hour.

2

Open the hood and support it in an raised position, using the hood support rod.

3

Unclip and remove the battery box cover. Disconnect the cables from the battery, starting with the negative cable followed by the positive cable, using a combination wrench. Remove the battery retaining strap using a ratchet. Lift the fuse box off of the battery, then pull the battery out of the battery box. Unbolt the battery box from the engine compartment using a ratchet.

4

Squeeze the spring clamp attaching the air box to the intake duct using pliers. Move the clamp away from the air box. Unclip and remove the air box cover, then pull the air filter out of the air box. Unbolt the lower half of the air box using a ratchet. Pull the air box out of the intake tube, then lift it out of the engine compartment.

5

Look between the right side of the transmission housing and the inner engine compartment wall, directly below the air box mounting point. The reverse switch is located directly below the upside-down L-shaped shift linkage at the top of the transmission housing. Alternatively, the reverse switch is located on the top right side of the transmission housing, if you are working on a Jetta fitted with an automatic transmission.

6

Unplug the two-pin electrical connector at the rear of the reverse switch. Unscrew the reverse switch from the transmission using an adjustable wrench.

7

Screw the new reverse switch into the transmission housing by hand. Tighten the switch to 15 foot-pounds, using a crow foot wrench and a torque wrench. Plug the electrical connector into the end of the switch.

8

Push the air box into the intake tube, then slide the spring clamp into place. Reinstall the lower air box into the engine compartment, followed by the air filter and air box cover.

9

Reinstall the battery box and battery. Place the fuse box over the top of the battery, then reattach the battery cables, starting with the positive cable followed by the negative cable. Tighten the battery terminal bolts using a combination wrench.

10

Reattach the battery box lid and close the Jettas hood.

The oxygen sensors in a 1996 Ford Explorer gauge the amount of unburned oxygen present in the exhaust system. A signal is sent to the engine management computer. The unburned oxygen relates to the fuel mixture, and the computer makes continuous adjustments as a result of these signals. There are always at least two sensors on each exhaust system. If the vehicle has dual exhaust, it will have four sensors.

Instructions

1

Connect the code scanner cable end to the OBD port under the dash on the left side of the steering column. The scanner is needed to determine which sensor is defective. Turn the ignition key to the "Run" or "On" position.

2

Press the key marked "Read." The computer will display a five-digit code. Record this code. Cross-erence this code with the code sheet that accompanies the code scanner to identify the faulty sensor. Turn the key off.

3

Raise the vehicle with the floor jack and place jack stands under the frame. Lower the vehicle onto the jack stands. Disconnect the electrical connector from the faulty sensor. If the code indicated that the number 1 sensor is faulty, it will be the one between the engine and the converter. If the number 2 sensor is faulty, it will be the sensor on or behind the converter.

4

Remove the faulty sensor using the 7/8-inch wrench. Turn the sensor counterclockwise to remove it.

5

Install the new sensor and tighten with the wrench. Connect the electrical connector. Lower the vehicle with the floor jack.

The oxygen sensor on your 1996 Jeep Cherokee helps regulate the fuel consumption and emissions. The sensor is threaded into the exhaust manifold and monitors the oxygen saturation in the trucks exhaust. The Cherokees computer adjusts the fuel-and-air mixture combusted in the engine based on the oxygen saturation. If your truck begins to burn a noticeably greater amount of fuel compared to its normal fuel consumption, buy a replacement oxygen sensor from an auto parts store and change it at home.

Instructions

1

Lift the front of the Cherokee with a jack until it sits high enough to fit jack stands underneath it for support. Place the jack stands under the frame rails just behind the front wheels. Lower the Cherokee so that it rests securely on the jack stands.

2

Disconnect the electrical connection from the oxygen sensor. Remove the sensor with a wrench or oxygen sensor socket attached to a ratchet.

3

Spread a thin layer of anti-seize compound on the threads of the new sensor. Do not get anti-seize compound on the sensor head. Thread it into place by hand. Tighten the sensor with a wrench or a socket and ratchet.

4

Connect the wiring harness connection by pressing it together until it clicks. Lift the truck with the jack until you can remove the jack stands. Return the truck to the ground.

Chrysler manufactures trucks under the Dodge brand, including compact trucks, midsize trucks and full-size pickups. The procedure for changing the oil pump on a Dodge truck depends upon the type of engine in the truck. Dodge trucks have a variety of engines, with a six-cylinder, 3.9-liter engine being typical for a 96 Dakota. The oil pump for this engine is attached to the rear bearing cap, which is accessible from beneath the vehicle.

Instructions

1

Detach the cable from the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench. Raise the vehicle with a jack and support it on jack stands. Place a drain pan below the oil drain. Remove the plug for the oil drain with a socket wrench. Allow the oil to drain into the pan and replace the drain plug.

2

Disconnect the mounting bolts for the oil pan with a socket wrench. Remove the drain pan and discard the gasket. Remove the screen for the oil pump with a socket wrench. Disconnect the bolts that fasten the oil pump to the rear main bearing cap. Detach the oil pump from the vehicle.

3

Pour clean engine oil into the intake of the new oil pump. Turn the driveshaft of the oil pump manually until the oil exits the pressure port of the oil pump. Continue turning the driveshaft until no air bubbles are present in the oil.

4

Hold the oil pump against the rear main bearing cap and tighten the mounting bolts to 130 foot-pounds with a torque wrench. Connect the screen to the oil pump. Mount a new gasket to the oil pan and install the oil pan.

5

Lower the vehicle and connect the cable to the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench. Check the vehicle for oil leaks.

Like most parts on your 96 Mercury Mystique, the thermostat will eventually need to be replaced. Because of its location, and because it has coolant or water constantly running through it, the thermostat will rust or break down over time. Fortunately, the part was designed to be disposable. Once it has worn out, you can simply discard it and install a new one in its place.

Instructions

1

Use your ratchet and socket set to disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery.

2

Follow the large radiator hose from the upper-right portion of your radiator to where it connects into the engine block. This is the water outlet. Your thermostat is located beneath the outlet.

3

Loosen the hose clamp on the small hose at the top of the water outlet, using your flat-head screwdriver. Pull the hose back and shove it out of the way to the side.

4

Place your small bucket under the large coolant hose. This is to catch any coolant that leaks out when you remove the hose.

5

Loosen and remove the hose clamp from the large hose, then pull the hose away from the water outlet. Some coolant will leak out at this point, so be prepared.

6

Use your ratchet and socket set to loosen and remove the three retaining bolts securing the water outlet to the engine block, then pull the outlet off of the engine to reveal the thermostat.

7

Remove the thermostat from the thermostat housing and discard.

8

Use your razor blade and scouring pad to clean off the thermostat housing and the bottom of the water outlet. The old thermostat gasket will likely have partially disintegrated and will need to be scoured off.

9

Apply a layer of gasket sealant to the newly-cleaned area around the thermostat housing, then place the new gasket into the sealant.

10

Place the new thermostat into the thermostat housing in the exact same position as the old one.

11

Replace the water outlet and secure it down with the three retaining bolts.

12

Replace the hoses and tighten down the hose clamps. Pour any coolant you collected back into the radiator and re-connect the battery cable.

The Acura 3.5 RL, also known as the Acura Legend, is a mid-level luxury car manufactured by Honda from 1996 to 2004. It had a six-cylinder 3.5-liter engine with multi-port fuel injection. This type of fuel injection requires the fuel pump to deliver highly pressurized fuel to the fuel injectors. The fuel pump in the Acura 3.5 RL is on top of the fuel tank and is accessible from the rear seat of the vehicle.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the negative battery cable with a socket wrench to prevent sparking. Open the filler cap for the fuel tank to relieve the pressure in the fuel tank.

2

Wrap a shop towel around the banjo bolt on top of the fuel filter. Hold the fuel filter with an open-end wrench. Loosen the banjo bolt slowly by one complete turn with a box-end wrench to relieve the pressure in the fuel system. Tighten the banjo bolt to its original position with the box-end wrench.

3

Remove the rear seat cushion and open the access panel on the floor of the passenger compartment. Disconnect the electrical connector from the fuel pump.

4

Remove the mounting nuts for the fuel pump with a socket wrench. Lift the fuel pump from the fuel tank.

5

Place the new fuel pump into the fuel tank and fasten the mounting bolts with a socket wrench. Attach the electrical connector for the fuel pump. Close the access panel and replace the rear seat cushion. Reconnect the negative battery cable.

The 1996 GMC Sierra (also referred to as a C or K series truck, C for two-wheel drive and K for four-wheel drive) was manufactured with two headlight styles. Some came with old-style sealed-beam headlights, while others featured the newer halogen composite headlight bulb inserts. By 1999, the Sierra finally committed to the composite inserts and has used them exclusively ever since.

Instructions

Halogen Composite Headlights

1

Open the hood to the 1996 GMC Sierra.

2

Locate the two upper headlight assembly retaining screws near the radiator support rail. Remove the screws with the ratchet and a socket.

3

Pull the headlight assembly outward far enough to reach behind it.

4

Disconnect the harness plug of the low beam headlight (outer headlight in assembly) or the high beam headlight (inner headlight in assembly).

5

Twist the plastic base of the headlight to the left until it unlocks from the headlight assembly (about a quarter turn). Discard the headlight.

6

Place the new headlight in the assembly by aligning the tabs on the base to the notches in the assembly, and then push inward. Twist the base to the right until it locks into place. Avoid touching the glass bulb or damage will occur to it from oil in human skin.

7

Connect the harness plug to the plastic base of the new headlight. Rest the assembly inside its cavity and test the headlight(s) before reassembling the headlight assembly and replacing the retaining screws.

Sealed Beam Headlights

8

Remove the four headlight bezel screws with a magnetic tipped Phillips screwdriver. There is a screw near each corner of the bezel. There are two additional screws near the top center and the center of one side of the sealed-beam headlight. Do not turn those screws, as they are the headlight adjusting screws. The magnetic tipped screwdriver will help to avoid dropping the removed screws down into the grill assembly.

9

Remove the bezel and pull the sealed-beam headlight outward far enough to unplug the three-pronged harness plug from the back of the headlight.

10

Plug the new headlight into the three-pronged harness and place it in the headlight cavity.

11

Test the headlight by turning on the switch. Check both low and high beam for operation.

12

Place the bezel over the headlight, and then replace the four retaining screws and tighten them.

The first Nissan Maxima was actually a top-trim Datsun 810; it reached U.S. shores in 1977. In 1981 the Maxima became its own model line; in 2010 the Maxima was in its seventh generation (eight if you include the Datsun 810 Maxima). The 96 Maxima, which has been known to have some common problems, is of the lines fourth generation.

Grinding Noise

Some 1996 Maxima owners reported a grinding in the rear brakes of their vehicles. Mechanics discovered that the parking brake kept pressure on the rear tires even after release. This required installation of new brake pads and a new brake cable.

Engine Knocking

There have been two causes identified from unusual engine noise in the 1996 Nissan Maxima. A reported "knocking" was found to be due to a defective on-board computer that had to be replaced. While a loose timing chain caused an unfamiliar "rattle." The timing chain fix required a new chain guide and tensioner.

Stalling Out

Corrosion on the cooling sensor of a 1996 Nissan Maxima has been found to be the cause of a stalling and hard-starting problem. This cooling sensor must be replaced to resolve the issue.

Poor Idle

Where electrical wires bend into the strut tower, mechanics have found broken wires that have caused failure in the starter and air conditioner. This hard bend of the wires into the strut tower has resulted in cut and broken wires in the 1996 Maxima.

Check the transmission fluid level on the 1996 manual Volkswagen Golf whenever checking other fluid levels in the engine. Adding transmission fluid to the Golf requires a special drive bit made specifically for Volkswagens that can be purchased in most auto parts shops. Performing this routine maintenance keeps the gears shifting smoothly and prevents costly damage to the transmission.

Instructions

1

Drive the car for 5 to 10 minutes to warm up the engine slightly. Doing this gives a more accurate read of the vehicles transmission fluid level. Jack the front of the car up to easily access the underside.

2

Slide underneath the car and locate the gearbox, which is a round metal container near the center of the car with two bolts, one in front and one behind. Place the pan underneath the rear bolt to catch any liquid that may escape.

3

Mount the VW drive bit into the socket wrench. Remove the rear bolt, which is the fill plug. Look at the level of fluid in the fill hole; it should line up with the bottom of the hole. If it is not level with the hole, adding transmission fluid is necessary.

4

Place the tube of the fluid pump into the fill hole and pump the bottle to deliver the transmission fluid to the gearbox. Stop when the fluid begins to trickle out.

5

Replace the fill plug and lower the car.