Fix It

Motor mounts are important automobile parts used to protect the engine, transmission and surrounding components from damage. Motor mounts also reduce the amount of noise and vibration in the vehicle to improve passenger comfort.

Operation

Motor mounts secure the engine and transmission to the body of a vehicle. Motor mounts are made of two plates of steel joined by a large rubber block. One plate is attached to the engine or transmission and the other to the frame. The rubber block cushions the movements of the engine and transmission.

Hydraulic

Though less commonly used than the rubber block design, some motor mounts use hydraulic fluid to cushion the engine and transmission movements. These mounts also use two steel plates but are connected by a small hydraulic cylinder. Some hydraulic mounts adjust while driving to optimize the mounts performance.

Troubleshooting

A defective motor mount allows the engine and transmission to move too far and too quickly. During acceleration or heavy braking, the broken mount may create a thumping noise as the engine or transmission strikes the broken mount. Broken motor mounts should be immediately replaced before this excessive movement causes damage.

You can reset the service engine light on your Chevrolet S10 by using an OBD-II scan tool. This on-board diagnostic tool can be purchased from your local auto parts retailer, although many such stores will check the code and reset the light at no charge.



The service engine light will turn on at regular intervals when your vehicle needs routine maintenance. After the maintenance is completed you will need to manually reset the light to turn it off. This is an easy adjustment that will only take a few moments.

Instructions

1

Look for the OBD II port located near the emergency brake on the lower dashboard. The OBD II port will be the receptive end for the connector on the OBD II scanner tool. Examine the connector end of the tool and the receptive port to make sure you have the correct port. Plug the OBD II scanner tool into the port.

2

Close the doors, roll up the windows and turn on the OBD II scanner tool. Put the key into the ignition and turn it to "on," but take care not to start the engine. Turning the vehicle on will start the electrical system which will power the OBD II scanner tool and allow it to do its job. The engine needs to remain off for the scanner to work.

3

Wait for the screen on the scanner to stop flashing. The service engine light will have turned off. Turn the key in the ignition to "off" and unplug the scanner.

4

Restart the engine and verify that the service engine light is still off on the instrument panel. Turn off the car.

Car air conditioner systems have multiple parts and if any of them malfunction your air conditioner may stop working properly. If you find your cars air conditioning system is not producing the cool air it used to, there are a number of simple ways to investigate the cause of the problem. Most air conditioner malfunctions occur due to a lack of rigerant, sometimes caused by leaks in the air conditioning unit.

Instructions

Check the Refrigerant Level

1

Turn off your car, then open the hood and locate your air conditioning unit. Air conditioning units are located at various places depending on the type of car you own. If you have trouble finding it, consult your car manual. The unit will have a compartment for the rigerant and a fan system.

2

Connect the AC pressure gauge to the side port of the air conditioning unit. Turn on the car and allow the engine to run for a few minutes.

3

Depress the accelerator. If the AC pressure gauges meter dips down when you accelerate, there is not enough rigerant in the vehicle.

Check for Leaks

4

Visually inspect the air conditioning unit with your car running. Check to see if the compressor is cycling and if the fan belt seems work.

5

Inject a small amount of auto-safe florescent dye into the air conditioning unit. This florescent dye is available at most auto parts stores and allows you to see any leaks or damage in the air conditioner unit. Follow the directions for insertion on the can.

6

Visually inspect the air conditioner unit for any holes or leaks in the pipes, tubes or compressors. The florescent dye will cover any holes or cracks, making them easy to spot.

7

Fix cracks or holes before adding more rigerant to prevent pollution and damage to your vehicle.

You can reset the computer codes on your Honda right from your home garage, saving time and money. The trouble codes are sent to the On-Board Diagnostics computer (OBD) from sensors positioned throughout the car. These codes pinpoint the service needs of the vehicle. Read the codes using a handheld computerized device called an OBD scan tool. Once the codes have been read and the repairs done, clear the codes using the OBD tool. This will reset the computer and shut off the lights.

Instructions

1

Find a port on the underside of the drivers side dash that is the same size and shape as the connective end of the OBD scan tool. Plug the scan tool into this port.

2

Put the key into the Hondas ignition and turn it to the "On" position, taking care not to crank the engine. This will power on the scan tool.

3

Wait while the scan tool reads the codes. Find a command on the scan tool that says "Clear Codes" or something similar. When the main menu reappears, the codes have been cleared.

4

Unplug the scan tool and start the engine. Verify that all warning and service lights have shut off.

The water pump in a 1990 Ford F-150 Lariat keeps the engine cool by circulating water and coolant throughout the engine. A malfunctioning water pump can cause the engines temperature to increase, even when the radiator has sufficient coolant. This may eventually result in permanent damage to the engine. The pump attaches to the timing chain cover on the front of the engine block. You will need to drain the cooling system when replacing the pump.

Instructions

1

Position a sealable container under the radiator drain hole and remove the drain plug. Wait for the coolant to drain into the container. Seal the container for later use. Replace the drain plug.

2

Remove the mounting bolts for the cooling fan shroud with a socket wrench. Disconnect the shroud from the radiator. Detach the radiator hose, bypass hose and heater hose from the water pump. Disconnect the drive belt and the cooling fan assembly, including the fan spacer and pulley.

3

Remove the alternator mounting bolts with a socket wrench, and move the alternator out of the way to access the water pump. You may also need to remove the power steering pump bracket if the vehicle is so equipped. Disconnect the mounting bolts for the water pump and detach the pump from the timing chain cover. Discard the water pump gasket.

4

Apply a thin layer of sealer to the new gasket. Install the new pump and gasket to the timing chain cover. Tighten the mounting bolts for the water pump to 18 foot-pounds with a torque wrench.

5

Repeat steps two and three in reverse order to complete the installation of the new water pump. Replace the coolant in the radiator.

Honda introduced the mid-sized complement to its compact Civic -- the Honda Accord in the 1976 model year. The Accord began its life as a feature-packed vehicle for its era sporting high-end elements, such as an AM-FM stereo, rear defroster and a remote hatch release. The 2001 Accord EX came standard with a wide array of features including an AM-FM stereo with a 6-disc CD player. An anti-theft system protected the stereo by locking the stereo from working when it lost power until you entered a five-digit code. If youve lost the code, contact the dealership with the radios serial number to get the code.

Instructions

Entering the Radio Code

1

Insert the key in the Accords ignition and turn it to the "Acc" or "On" position.

2

Turn the radio on by pressing the volume button, if needed.

3

Observe as "Code" appears on the radios display.

4

Enter the five-digit code from the radio code card the dealership provided with the vehicle, by pressing the corresponding preset buttons on the radio. If entered correctly, the radio begins to play. If the radio does not play, turn the Accord off and retry from Step 3. If you do not have the five digit code, see the section titled "Obtaining a Lost Radio Code."

5

Turn the Accord off.

Obtaining a Lost Radio Code

6

Turn the Accords ignition to the "Acc" or "On" position.

7

Press and hold the number 1 and 6 preset buttons and turn on the radio by pressing the volume button on the radio.

8

Observe as four digits appear on the radios screen, make note of these numbers. After five seconds, a second set of four numbers appears on the screen, write down these numbers. All eight numbers make up the radios eight-digit serial number.

9

Take the eight-digit serial number to a Honda dealership to obtain the radio code.

The flashers, also called blinkers or turn signals, as well as the hazard lights on the Ford F-150 pickup truck are all controlled by one simple relay module. If you have a front or rear flasher that isnt working, chances are you need to replace a simple five-pin relay module located on your steering column. The part costs very little, and replacing it will take just a few minutes of your time.

Instructions

1

Use a flat-head screwdriver to gently pry the clam-shell door open. The door is located under the instrument panel on the top of the steering column between the instrument panel and the steering wheel.

2

Remove the door and set it in a safe place.

3

Remove the blue five-pin relay from the column by pulling it gently from the plug.

4

Remove the screw from the top of the relay.

5

Replace the screw on the top of the relay.

6

Replace the relay with the new one (part number F65B-13350-AA). Plug the new relay in where you removed the old one.

7

Close the clam-shell door by lining it up and pressing down until it snaps in place.

The Power Programmer III from Hypertech plugs into a vehicles diagnostic port and asks a series of engine specific yes or no questions. The Power Programmer then makes adjustments to engine settings to maximize performance.

Claims

According to the manufacturer, the Power Programmer III can add up to 120 horse power and 227 ft/lbs of torque to a diesel engine and 57 horse power 60 ft/lbs of torque to a gas engine.

Adjustments

The Power Programmer III can adjust or fine-tune an engines three-stage or duel-fuel tuning, engine rev limiter, cooling fan temperature, transmission shift points and firmness and top speed limiter. It can also make corrections to the speedometer and odometer.

Warnings & Cautions

The Power Programmer III requires a fully charged battery car battery to perform properly and the ignition must remain on. Caully read the manufacturers instructions for details. It is also important to note that the Power Programmer III does not work the same for all makes, models and engines.

The original catalytic converter on the 1988 Chevy K2500 was a flat, broad, pellet-filled component. Chevy used this style converter until the mid 1990s. The bottom of the converter featured a fill plug that would often erode from exposure and leak the ceramic pellets out from inside the shell. While replacement plugs were available, most aftermarket companies replaced the converter with a canister-shaped direct-fit converter with an internal ceramic honeycombed substructure.

Instructions

1

Park the 1988 Chevy K2500 on a level surface, turn the engine off and apply the parking brake.

2

Put on the safety glasses and crawl under the passengers side of the vehicle (behind the front tire) with the shop light or a flashlight.

3

Follow the exhaust tubing on the passengers side to the engine connection. The front pipe of the K2500 features a Y-pipe connected to both the drivers side and the passengers side of the engine.

4

Follow the Y-pipe back to the next component behind it. It will either be a large, broad, flat component or a round canister with an external heat shield spot-welded to the outer shell. This component is the catalytic converter. Depending on the size of the wheel base of the K2500, behind the converter there may be a small to medium length connector pipe leading to the muffler and the tailpipe. The connector pipe routes over the rear axle and out toward the rear bumper, all on the passengers side.

Replacing the key cylinder on the steering column of your Jeep Wrangler may be necessary if damage has occurred to the tumblers or pins inside the cylinder. A replacement cylinder is available from the Jeep dealer and can be keyed to use your existing key for a fee. The cylinder can be swapped quickly and does not require a bunch of specials tools to complete.

Instructions

1

Sit in the drivers seat of your Jeep and insert the ignition key into the cylinder. Locate the hole in the bottom panel of the steering column directly below the cylinder.

2

Insert a small screwdriver or punch into the hole in the column and push the pin inside the hole up. Turn the key and cylinder to the "On" position then pull the cylinder straight out of the column. Remove the screwdriver or punch from the hole under the column.

3

Turn the key to the "Off" position then withdraw the key from the cylinder. Insert the key into the new cylinder and turn the key to the "On "position on the new cylinder.

4

Insert the cylinder and key into the column the rotate the key to the "OFF" position. Withdraw the key from the cylinder.

The outer tie rods ends on the 1995 Honda Accord connect the steering system to the integral knuckles of the front wheels. Wear and tear on the ball sockets of the outer tie rods will eventually weaken them, causing them to become loose. This symptom will give a slight to major back-and-forth movement of the tire and compromise the tire wear and the steering of the vehicle. While replacing the outer tie rod is not overly difficult, the car should have a front-end alignment after any major steering component has been replaced.

Instructions

1

Apply the parking brake and loosen the lug nuts on the wheel one-half turn counterclockwise, using the breaker bar and a 19 mm wrench.

2

Hoist the vehicle up with the car jack and support the Accord onto a jack stand. Remove the lug nuts and wheel.

3

Remove the cotter pin from the ball shaft of the outer tie rod with a pair of cutting dikes or a set of needle-nose pliers.

4

Make a mark on the threads of the inner tie rod with a permanent marker where the outer tie rod lock nut ends. This mark will keep the front-end alignment close to its original position until an alignment can be performed on the vehicle.

5

Hold the base of the outer tie rod with one wrench and turn the lock nut on the threaded shaft of the inner tie rod counterclockwise just enough to break it free.

6

Loosen the castle nut from the ball shaft of the tie rod end, at the knuckle, using the breaker bar and metric socket. Loosen the nut until it covers the top threads of the ball shaft.

7

Strike the castle nut on the ball shaft with a hammer until the ball socket of the tie rod separates from the integral knuckle. Remove the castle nut and allow the outer tie rod to drop down from the knuckle.

8

Unscrew the outer tie rod from the threads of the inner tie rod and then unscrew the lock nut from the inner tie rod.

9

Thread the new lock nut, supplied with the replacement outer tie rod, onto the threads of the inner tie rod up to the permanent marker mark. Thread the replacement outer tie rod onto the inner tie rod up to the lock nut, but align the outer tie rod so the ball shaft is standing in an upward position.

10

Place the ball shaft of the tie rod through the integral knuckle. The ball shaft of the replacement tie rod will be stiff and hard to move by hand. If necessary, place the old castle nut on the threads of the new tie rod ball shaft and gently tap it to manipulate its angle until it aligns to the hole of the knuckle. Remove and discard the old castle nut.

11

Thread the replacement castle nut, supplied with the replacement outer tie rod, onto the threads of the ball shaft and tighten with the breaker bar and a metric socket. Tighten the nut securely and align the notches of the castle nut to the pre-drilled hole in the top of the ball shaft.

12

Insert the replacement cotter pin, supplied with the replacement outer tie rod, through the ball shaft hole and notches of the castle nut. Bend the ends of the cotter pin over the top of the nut and ball shaft with the cutting dikes or needle-nose pliers.

13

Tighten the lock nut on the inner tie rod threads to the base of the outer tie rod, using the two metric wrenches---one to hold the base of the outer tie rod and the other to tighten the nut to the base.

14

Replace the wheel and lug nuts. Snug the lug nuts tightly to the knuckle and then lower the Accord to the ground.

15

Tighten the lug nuts in a crisscross pattern, using the torque ratchet set at 80 foot-pounds and a 19 mm socket.

Acetone is a multi-use solvent that is generally considered safe for humans to use. The chemical is incorporated into paint supplies and cleaners used in the auto body painting and repair industry. Compounds used at every stage of the painting and cleaning process contain at least small amounts of acetone.

Cleaning Solution

Acetone is used in cleaning solutions applied to spray guns used in auto body work. The solvent is able to break down the harsh and potentially toxic chemicals used in auto body paints. Certain states, like California, are attempting to move away from sprays and solvents containing highly volatile organic compounds. According to a 2008 study prepared for the Cal/EPAs Toxic Substances Control, the best alternative cleaning solutions included a blend of glycol and acetone.

Finishing Solution

Finishing solutions are applied to auto body paint jobs to seal the paint and keep it from flaking or cracking due to weather or temperature conditions. These compounds typically contain acetone as an active ingredient that goes on clear so the cars paint job isnt obscured. In fact, acetone sealers usually add shine to the paint. The chemical is also used in window tints.

Paint Thinner

Auto body paints are combined with acetone to thin them. This allows the paint to apply evenly to the surface without pooling too much, which can affect drying times. The chemical dissolves when the paint is heated, leaving an even coat of paint. Acetone is also used as a pre-paint cleaner to remove any grit or surface grease on auto body parts that could affect the painting process and create dimples or raised areas.

The first Dodge Rams rolled out of the factory in 1981, and Dodge has continued to improve and redesign its heavy-duty pickup truck ever since. Dodge introduced the current generation of Rams in 2009. The 2010 Ram was available in several two-wheel-drive and four-wheel-drive trims in the 1500, 2500, 3500, 4500 and 5500 weight classes. However, the toe-in specs were the same for all trims of the Ram 1500. Likewise, all other trims of the 2010 Dodge Ram shared the same toe-in specs.

Toe

The toe of a wheel ers to the angle of the wheel in relation to the vehicles centerline. If the front of a wheel is angled inward toward the centerline, then the wheel has toe-in. If the front of a wheel angles outward away from the centerline, then the vehicle has toe-out. Most vehicles are designed for the wheels to toe in slightly. Toe is the most important alignment spec in terms of tire wear. If a wheel has the toe misaligned by just a fraction of a degree, it can significantly reduce the life of a tire. The toe is adjustable on the front ends of all trims of the 2010 Dodge Ram. It is not adjustable on the rear because the Rams come with a fixed rear axle. The specs provided below apply only to the 2010 Dodge Ram and should not be used on other model years, because alignment specs can change from year to year.

The 2010 Ram 1500

The same toe-in specs apply to all two-wheel-drive and four-wheel-drive trims of the 2010 Dodge Ram 1500, regardless of whether the truck came with 17-inch tires or 20-inch tires. The ideal toe-in setting is +0.1 degrees but it can vary by 0.36 degrees in either direction.

All Other Trims and Models of the 2010 Ram

All other trims of the 2010 Dodge Ram, including the Ram 2500, the Ram 3500, the Ram 3500 Heavy Duty Chassis-Cab, the Ram 4500 Heavy Duty Chassis-Cab and the Ram 5500 Heavy Duty Chassis Cab, came with the same toe-in specs. The specs were the same for Box Off and standard trims. The ideal setting for the toe-in is +0.2 degrees but it can range by 0.1 degree in either direction.

Replacing the fuel/water separator on the 2.8-liter diesel engine in your Jeep Liberty is not something that you need to do regularly, but when the time comes, a new separator assembly is available from the Jeep dealer. The fuel/water separator is important, as it works to remove moisture and sediment from the diesel fuel before it enters the fuel rails and engine. Water can damage the engine and cause it to run poorly or not at all.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the negative cable from the battery, using a wrench to remove the retaining bolt. Isolate the negative cable from the battery while you work.

2

Locate the fuel/water separator on the firewall of your Liberty. It is to the left of the engine, directly in front of the driver. Locate the two electrical connections on the front of the separator. Depress the locking tab on the connectors and remove them from the separator body. Lay the wiring connections aside.

3

Remove the hose clamp on the large fuel line at the front of the separator using a flat-head screwdriver. Pull the hose off the fitting and push it aside. Locate the second fuel line on the passengers side of the separator. Remove the hose clamp from the line with a flat-head screwdriver and pull it off the fitting.

4

Remove the two bolts that secure the separator to the firewall of the Jeep, using a socket and ratchet. Pull the assembly off the firewall. Position the new separator on the firewall and install the retaining bolts. Tighten the bolts to 63 in.-lbs. with a torque wrench.

5

Connect both fuel lines to the fittings on the new separator. Attach the hose clamps and tighten them with a flat-head screwdriver. Do not overtighten them or you will damage the rubber hose and it will fail prematurely.

6

Attach the wiring harness connectors to the front of the assembly. They are different so you cannot plug them in wrong. Push the connectors in until they snap into place.

7

Reconnect the negative cable to the battery. Reattach the retaining bolt and tighten it with a wrench.

The Accord is a mid-size car manufactured by Honda since 1976 and is still in production as of 2010. The 1990 model has a four-cylinder, 2.2L engine with electronic fuel injection. This requires the fuel pump to deliver fuel to the injectors under high pressure. The fuel pump in the 1990 Honda Accord attaches directly to the fuel tank, so you must disconnect the fuel tank to replace the fuel pump.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the cable to the negative terminal of the battery with a socket wrench, and loosen the filler cap for the fuel tank. Locate the fuel pressure release valve on the fuel rail. Hold the banjo bolt for the release valve with a 6 mm closed wrench. Wrap a shop rag around the service bolt on top of the banjo bolt. Loosen the service bolt by one complete turn with an open-end wrench to relieve the pressure in the fuel system. Tighten the service bolt to 9 foot-pounds with a torque wrench.

2

Block the front wheels and raise the rear of the vehicle on jack stands. Loosen the drain bolt of the fuel tank and drain the fuel into a container approved for gasoline. Slide the clamps on the fuel hoses back and disconnect the fuel hoses from the fuel tank. Support the fuel tank with a floor jack and remove the nuts on the fuel tank retaining straps with a socket wrench. Lower the floor jack and remove the fuel tank from the vehicle. Disconnect the mounting bolts for the fuel pump with a socket wrench and remove the fuel pump from the fuel tank.

3

Install the new fuel pump onto the fuel tank ensuring that you seat it into its proper position. Tighten the mounting bolts evenly to a torque of 48 inch-pounds with a torque wrench. Connect the fuel tank and tighten the nuts on the restraining strap to 27 foot-pounds with a torque wrench.

4

Remove the service bolt on the fuel pressure regulator on the fuel rail. Disconnect the hose from the fuel pressure regulator and plug the open end of the hose. Attach a fuel pressure gauge to the pressure regulator.

5

Start the engine and note the reading on the fuel pressure gauge while the engine is idling. The fuel pressure in a 1990 Honda Accord should be in the range of 36 to 41 psi. Check for a clogged or pinched fuel return hose if the pressure is too high. Look for leaks in the fuel line, a faulty pressure regulator or a clogged fuel filter if the pressure is too low.

6

Wrap a shop rag around the fitting for the pressure gauge. Loosen the fitting slowly, until you can remove the pressure gauge. Place new washers on the service bolt and tighten it to 9 foot-pounds with a torque wrench.

A faulty drain cock or petcock on a 2007 Jeep Liberty could result in a radiator leak, an overheated engine and costly repairs. The petcock is a small valve located on the lower left side of the radiator. The petcock threads into the face of the radiator tank and replacing it is a fairly simple task that requires few tools. Make sure to drain the radiator before you remove the petcock to avoid spilling coolant.

Instructions

1

Open the hood of your Jeep and remove the radiator cap from the radiator. Set the cap aside then slide a jack under the front axle and raise the Jeep off the ground. Place a set of jack stands under the Jeep to support it.

2

Slide a section of rubber tubing onto the drain cock and place a drain pan below it. Open the drain cock with a wrench and allow the coolant to drain from the system. Spin the drain cock out of the radiator with a wrench and thread the new on in place, tightening it with the wrench. Make sure the drain is closed.

3

Raise the front of the Jeep off the jack stands then remove the stands from under the truck. Remove the drain pan from under the truck and lower the truck to the ground.

4

Fill the radiator with coolant then place the cap on the radiator. Open the pressure bottle and fill it with coolant until it reaches the full line on the bottle. Start the engine and turn the heat selector to on. Allow the Jeep to run until it reaches normal operating temperature, about five to 10 minutes.

5

Recheck the coolant level in the pressure bottle and add coolant until it reaches the full mark again. Continue checking and filling the bottle until the level no longer falls with the engine running.

6

Recheck the coolant level after several days of normal driving. Add additional coolant as needed at that time.

Vehicle lifter noise on start-up may be caused by several factors, depending on the type of oil filter, oil, lubrication system, mileage, mechanical condition and even required adjustments of your vehicle. Whatever the cause, there are some adjustments you can perform to quiet the lifters on start-up. Always start your diagnosis with the most common cause. In most cases, you will be able to fix your noisy lifters replacing a minimum of components or performing a few maintenance tasks.

Instructions

1

Take your car for a 20 minute drive on the highway to bring the engine up to operating temperature. Return to your driveway, open the hood and pull out the engine oil dipstick. Check the oil level and condition. If the oil is a quart lower from the required level or your engine is running on dirty, old oil, this may cause your lifters to tick. Add new enough oil to bring the amount to the correct level or replace the oil as necessary.

2

Make sure you are using an oil filter equipped with an anti-drainback valve (ADBV). This valve prevents the oil moving around the top of the engine from flowing back into the oil pan after shutting off the engine. This ensures that the engine, including your lifters, have oil during start up. A lifter that has provided your engine with miles of service will definitely benefit from a check-valve oil filter.

3

Take your vehicle to an auto shop and have them check engine oil pressure. If oil pressure is starting to drop, a worn out oil pump, clogged oil pickup screen, restricted oil pickup tube or oil galleries may be behind this problem.

4

Ask your mechanic to inspect the condition of the oil passages inside the engine. If you have failed to replace the engine oil at the recommended manufacturer intervals for some time, the inside of the engine might be covered with oil residue and gum, preventing proper oil flow. Take your vehicle to an auto shop and have them check oil pressure and engine mechanical condition.

5

Check the valve clearance in your engine. On some vehicle models, manufacturers advice adjusting valve clearance at recommended maintenance intervals. This will prevent excessive part wear and valve train noise. Consult your car service manual or call your local dealer, if necessary.

A brake light switch, located on a bracket mounted directly in front of the brake pedal arm, controls your 1993 Nissan Quests brake lights. As the pedal arm pushes forward from the force of you stepping on the brakes, it depresses the switch and activates the brake lights. When the switch short circuits, it will either leave the lights always on or always off. In order to get the lights off, and return them to normal functionality, youll need to replace the faulty brake light switch. If you have mechanical aptitude and 25 minutes of time on your hands, you can fix this problem.

Instructions

1

Open the Quests front door. Adjust the drivers seat as far back as it will go in order to provide yourself with sufficient room to access the under-dash area.

2

Shine the work light in the drivers foot well so it illuminates the area at the top of the brake pedal arm. Retract the retaining tab on the brake light wiring pigtail with your thumb while gripping the pigtail with your foinger. Pull the pigtail off the brake light switch.

3

Unbolt the faulty brake light switch from the mounting bracket using a box wrench. Discard the faulty brake light switch.

4

Set the new brake light switch into the bracket. Bolt it in with the box wrench. Plug the wiring pigtail into the new brake light switch by hand.

5

Depress the brake pedal and have your helper verify the brake lights work before driving your Nissan Quest.

If you have lost the keys that came with your Dodge truck, you can contact a locksmith and they can attempt to cut a new key for you. However, they usually replace the lock cylinder in the doors and in the steering column. This can cost hundreds of dollars. There is a simpler and less expensive way to replace the key for your Dodge pickup truck.

Instructions

1

Locate the vehicle identification number (VIN) by looking at the dash through the lower corner of the window on the drivers side of the vehicle. The VIN number is also on your vehicle title, insurance card and registration card.

2

Contact your local Dodge dealership and confirm that they have the ability to cut you a new key. Most dealerships offer repair services.

3

Take your VIN number to the dealership. They can use the VIN number to look up the key code needed to duplicate your key.

The 1999 Mercury Cougar has two engine options. The base engine is a 2.0-liter, in-line four-cylinder, which produces 130 horsepower. The optional engine is a 170-horsepower 2.5-liter V-6. No matter the engine size, the 1999 Cougar has an on-board diagnostic (OBD) computer with an OBD-II port.

Location

The OBD-II port is sometimes difficult to find on certain vehicles. However, the Cougars OBD-II diagnostic port is easy to find. It is located on the drivers side, under the dashboard and to the drivers side of the steering wheel.

Function

The OBD-II port is where an OBD-II scanner can be plugged in. This scanner gathers all of the information from the vehicles computer and displays it on a screen. Some computers even have testing functions for certain components.

History

On-board diagnostics started back in 1982 in California when the California Air Resources Board began creating regulations that required all vehicles to have an on-board diagnostic system -- now known as OBD-I -- to sense emission system failures. In 1996 the Federal Government followed suit by making the more-universal OBD-II required on all vehicles.