Fix It

Replacing the exhaust manifolds on your Ford F-150 truck is a complicated process that varies greatly depending not only on the year of the truck but also the type of engine. The manifolds are connected to the cylinder heads and the catalytic converters. You should talk with your mechanic before attempting this type of repair.

Instructions

V6 Engines

1

Disconnect the trucks negative battery cable, then raise the truck and securely support it on jack stands.

2

Disconnect the electrical connectors to the oxygen sensor.

3

Remove the nuts connecting the exhaust Y-pipe to the manifolds. Apply penetrating oil to the nuts and studs, if necessary.

4

Remove the engine lifting bracket. For the drivers side manifold, remove the dipstick tube from the oil pan by removing its nut and pulling it out. For the passengers side manifold, disconnect the EGR pipe from the manifold.

5

Disconnect the six mounting nuts for the exhaust manifold. Separate the manifold from the cylinder head and remove the old gaskets.

6

Place the replacement exhaust manifold with new gaskets onto the cylinder head. Install the mounting nuts with a torque wrench, tightening the center nuts first, followed by the front pair and the rear pair.

7

Reconnect and install the other components in the reverse order of removal--this can include the engine lifting bracket, oil dipstick tube, EGR pipe and oxygen sensor electrical connector.

8

Lower the truck and reconnect the battery cable.

V8 Engines

9

Disconnect the negative battery cable, raise the truck and support it on jack stands. Remove the inner splash shield from the fender well.

10

Disconnect the EGR pipe at the EGR valve and exhaust manifold if you are removing the drivers side manifold on a 4.6 liter engine. On a 5.4 liter, remove the front and rear heated oxygen sensors and the exhaust support bracket.

11

Remove the starter if youre removing the passengers side manifold. Also remove the stabilizer bar on a 5.4 liter engine.

12

Disconnect the catalytic converter assemblies from the manifold on a 5.4 liter engine by removing their nuts, then move the assemblies to the rear of the truck.

13

Remove the mounting nuts from the exhaust manifold and remove it. Remove the studs from the cylinder heads and discard them and the nuts.

14

Clean the mating surface on the cylinder heads, using a gasket scraper to remove any carbon deposits. Install new studs into the cylinder heads.

15

Place the exhaust manifold over the studs with new gaskets. Install new mounting nuts, working from the rear to the front and alternating between the top and bottom rows.

16

Install the remaining components in the reverse order of removal and lower the truck. If you need to reconnect the EGR pipe, apply a small amount of anti-seize compound on the threads.

Replacing the key cylinder on the steering column of your Jeep Wrangler may be necessary if damage has occurred to the tumblers or pins inside the cylinder. A replacement cylinder is available from the Jeep dealer and can be keyed to use your existing key for a fee. The cylinder can be swapped quickly and does not require a bunch of specials tools to complete.

Instructions

1

Sit in the drivers seat of your Jeep and insert the ignition key into the cylinder. Locate the hole in the bottom panel of the steering column directly below the cylinder.

2

Insert a small screwdriver or punch into the hole in the column and push the pin inside the hole up. Turn the key and cylinder to the "On" position then pull the cylinder straight out of the column. Remove the screwdriver or punch from the hole under the column.

3

Turn the key to the "Off" position then withdraw the key from the cylinder. Insert the key into the new cylinder and turn the key to the "On "position on the new cylinder.

4

Insert the cylinder and key into the column the rotate the key to the "OFF" position. Withdraw the key from the cylinder.

The outer tie rods ends on the 1995 Honda Accord connect the steering system to the integral knuckles of the front wheels. Wear and tear on the ball sockets of the outer tie rods will eventually weaken them, causing them to become loose. This symptom will give a slight to major back-and-forth movement of the tire and compromise the tire wear and the steering of the vehicle. While replacing the outer tie rod is not overly difficult, the car should have a front-end alignment after any major steering component has been replaced.

Instructions

1

Apply the parking brake and loosen the lug nuts on the wheel one-half turn counterclockwise, using the breaker bar and a 19 mm wrench.

2

Hoist the vehicle up with the car jack and support the Accord onto a jack stand. Remove the lug nuts and wheel.

3

Remove the cotter pin from the ball shaft of the outer tie rod with a pair of cutting dikes or a set of needle-nose pliers.

4

Make a mark on the threads of the inner tie rod with a permanent marker where the outer tie rod lock nut ends. This mark will keep the front-end alignment close to its original position until an alignment can be performed on the vehicle.

5

Hold the base of the outer tie rod with one wrench and turn the lock nut on the threaded shaft of the inner tie rod counterclockwise just enough to break it free.

6

Loosen the castle nut from the ball shaft of the tie rod end, at the knuckle, using the breaker bar and metric socket. Loosen the nut until it covers the top threads of the ball shaft.

7

Strike the castle nut on the ball shaft with a hammer until the ball socket of the tie rod separates from the integral knuckle. Remove the castle nut and allow the outer tie rod to drop down from the knuckle.

8

Unscrew the outer tie rod from the threads of the inner tie rod and then unscrew the lock nut from the inner tie rod.

9

Thread the new lock nut, supplied with the replacement outer tie rod, onto the threads of the inner tie rod up to the permanent marker mark. Thread the replacement outer tie rod onto the inner tie rod up to the lock nut, but align the outer tie rod so the ball shaft is standing in an upward position.

10

Place the ball shaft of the tie rod through the integral knuckle. The ball shaft of the replacement tie rod will be stiff and hard to move by hand. If necessary, place the old castle nut on the threads of the new tie rod ball shaft and gently tap it to manipulate its angle until it aligns to the hole of the knuckle. Remove and discard the old castle nut.

11

Thread the replacement castle nut, supplied with the replacement outer tie rod, onto the threads of the ball shaft and tighten with the breaker bar and a metric socket. Tighten the nut securely and align the notches of the castle nut to the pre-drilled hole in the top of the ball shaft.

12

Insert the replacement cotter pin, supplied with the replacement outer tie rod, through the ball shaft hole and notches of the castle nut. Bend the ends of the cotter pin over the top of the nut and ball shaft with the cutting dikes or needle-nose pliers.

13

Tighten the lock nut on the inner tie rod threads to the base of the outer tie rod, using the two metric wrenches---one to hold the base of the outer tie rod and the other to tighten the nut to the base.

14

Replace the wheel and lug nuts. Snug the lug nuts tightly to the knuckle and then lower the Accord to the ground.

15

Tighten the lug nuts in a crisscross pattern, using the torque ratchet set at 80 foot-pounds and a 19 mm socket.

Replacing the fuel/water separator on the 2.8-liter diesel engine in your Jeep Liberty is not something that you need to do regularly, but when the time comes, a new separator assembly is available from the Jeep dealer. The fuel/water separator is important, as it works to remove moisture and sediment from the diesel fuel before it enters the fuel rails and engine. Water can damage the engine and cause it to run poorly or not at all.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the negative cable from the battery, using a wrench to remove the retaining bolt. Isolate the negative cable from the battery while you work.

2

Locate the fuel/water separator on the firewall of your Liberty. It is to the left of the engine, directly in front of the driver. Locate the two electrical connections on the front of the separator. Depress the locking tab on the connectors and remove them from the separator body. Lay the wiring connections aside.

3

Remove the hose clamp on the large fuel line at the front of the separator using a flat-head screwdriver. Pull the hose off the fitting and push it aside. Locate the second fuel line on the passengers side of the separator. Remove the hose clamp from the line with a flat-head screwdriver and pull it off the fitting.

4

Remove the two bolts that secure the separator to the firewall of the Jeep, using a socket and ratchet. Pull the assembly off the firewall. Position the new separator on the firewall and install the retaining bolts. Tighten the bolts to 63 in.-lbs. with a torque wrench.

5

Connect both fuel lines to the fittings on the new separator. Attach the hose clamps and tighten them with a flat-head screwdriver. Do not overtighten them or you will damage the rubber hose and it will fail prematurely.

6

Attach the wiring harness connectors to the front of the assembly. They are different so you cannot plug them in wrong. Push the connectors in until they snap into place.

7

Reconnect the negative cable to the battery. Reattach the retaining bolt and tighten it with a wrench.

Harley-Davidson always calls its choke cable the "enrichener." Pulling the enrichener knob out increases the percentage of fuel in the carburetors fuel/air mixture, which helps cold engines start. Pushing the knob in returns the fuel/air mixture to normal levels. This is a small and inexpensive component, but many riders hesitate to replace the enrichener themselves because written instructions for the procedure are non-existent. Replacing the cable assembly requires at least the partial removal of the carburetor. You can remove the carburetor completely, but if you leave the carburetor loosely attached to the intake manifold, the throttle cables and fuel line remain intact.

Instructions

1

Empty the carburetor of fuel by closing the petcock and starting the engine. Let the engine run until it stalls.

2

Remove the entire air cleaner assembly, including the air cleaner cover, the air cleaner and the air cleaner backing plate. Use an Allen wrench to remove the cover, Torx sockets or drivers to remove the air cleaner and a socket wrench to remove the backing plate. Disconnect the breather tubes by hand.

3

Detach the enrichener knob from the bracket above the horn.

4

Pull the carburetor partly out of the black, rubber seal ring that connects it to the intake manifold. Use a flashlight or shop light to locate the enrichener cable and find where it screws into the carburetor. Remove the old cable by unscrewing it.

5

Clip the knob end of the new enrichener assembly into the bracket above the horn. Snake the enrichener valve end of the new enrichener cable assembly under the gas tank to the back of the carburetor.

6

Insert the wire and ball end of the enrichener valve into the opening in the back of the carburetor. Thread and hand-tighten the black, plastic cable sealing cap on the end of the enrichener assembly to the back of the carburetor. Do not use a wrench.

7

Reseat the carburetor in the seal ring. Visually inspect the carburetor. Reattach the entire air cleaner assembly, including the breather tubes.

The headlight replacement process for a 2007 Mazda 3 depends entirely on whether or not the specific vehicle has a turbocharger. Although both types use the same HB3 bulbs for the the high beams and H7 bulbs for the low beams, accessing the lights is what differs. As the headlights on any vehicle are important for the safety of the driver and passengers, they should be replaced as soon as they burn out.

Instructions

Accessing the Headlights (without Turbocharger)

1

Turn the ignition switch off and open the hood.

2

Rotate the screws counterclockwise and remove them from the headlamp assembly, using the screwdriver. Remove the cover.

3

Disconnect the electrical cord from the rear of the assembly.

Accessing the Headlights (with Turbocharger)

4

Turn the ignition switch off and open the hood.

5

Remove the plastic clip above the headlamp assembly and pull the slide mount up to a position where it does not interfere with the frame. If replacing the left-side headlight, remove the strap and take out the air filter.

6

Disconnect the electrical cord from the rear of the assembly.

Replacing the High-Beam Bulb

7

Rotate the socket and bulb assembly counterclockwise to remove it.

8

Remove the headlight bulb from the socket by pulling it straight out.

9

Disconnect the bulb from the electrical connector by pressing down on the tab with your finger and pulling the bulb upward.

10

Connect the electrical connector to the new bulb and place it back into the socket and the assembly.

11

Rotate the socket and bulb assembly clockwise to lock it.

Replacing the Low-Beam Bulb

12

Pull the sealing cover off of the headlamp bulb.

13

Unhook the bulb retaining spring and swing it outwards to free the headlight bulb.

14

Pull the bulb straight out and replace it with a new bulb.

15

Swing the spring back into place and reattach the sealing cover.

The 1994 Mustang was a popular performance car with over 120,000 produced by Ford. The Mustang was a two-door, rear-wheel drive car with a solid rear axle. The ignition switch is located on the right hand side of the steering column. Replacement of the ignition switch may be required due to switch failure or loss of the keys. Basic hand tools are required to perform replacement of the ignition switch.

Instructions

1

Open the hood of the mustang and remove the negative battery cable from the battery, using a wrench. Wait two minutes and use the wrench to remove the positive battery cable from the battery.

2

Remove the screws holding the drivers side knee bolster in place. Gently pull on the bolster to remove it from the Mustang.

3

Place the ignition switch in the "Run" position and leave the key in the switch.

4

Remove the plastic panel covering the bottom of the steering column with the Phillips screwdriver.

5

Lift the tab of the electrical connector on the ignition switch and separate the connector from the ignition switch.

6

Remove the two Torx bolts holding the ignition switch to the steering column and pull the ignition switch free of the steering column.

7

Place new switch next to the old unit and verify the actuator pin is in the same position. Insert the new switch into the steering column and attach with the two Torx screws. Tighten the Torx screws with the Torx screwdriver to secure it to the steering column

8

Snap the electrical connection into the new ignition switch.

9

Replace the lower steering column cover and tighten the retaining screws with the Phillips screwdriver. Position the knee bolster into the original position and secure with the Phillips screws.

10

Attach the positive battery cable to positive terminal on the battery and tighten with the wrench. Repeat for the negative battery cable.

The oxygen sensor on your 1996 Jeep Cherokee helps regulate the fuel consumption and emissions. The sensor is threaded into the exhaust manifold and monitors the oxygen saturation in the trucks exhaust. The Cherokees computer adjusts the fuel-and-air mixture combusted in the engine based on the oxygen saturation. If your truck begins to burn a noticeably greater amount of fuel compared to its normal fuel consumption, buy a replacement oxygen sensor from an auto parts store and change it at home.

Instructions

1

Lift the front of the Cherokee with a jack until it sits high enough to fit jack stands underneath it for support. Place the jack stands under the frame rails just behind the front wheels. Lower the Cherokee so that it rests securely on the jack stands.

2

Disconnect the electrical connection from the oxygen sensor. Remove the sensor with a wrench or oxygen sensor socket attached to a ratchet.

3

Spread a thin layer of anti-seize compound on the threads of the new sensor. Do not get anti-seize compound on the sensor head. Thread it into place by hand. Tighten the sensor with a wrench or a socket and ratchet.

4

Connect the wiring harness connection by pressing it together until it clicks. Lift the truck with the jack until you can remove the jack stands. Return the truck to the ground.

Depending on the year of the Ford Taurus, there may be two or more oxygen sensors present in the exhaust system. In the common 3.0-liter 6-cylinder models, there are four sensors. Read and diagnose the trouble code that set off the "check engine" light to ensure youre replacing the correct sensor.

Instructions

1

Drive the Taurus onto a car lift. Put on safety glasses and crawl underneath the car.

2

Locate the sensor you need to replace. Two of them are screwed into each side of the Y-pipe coming off each manifold; there are two more downstream located after each catalytic converter.

3

Unplug the oxygen sensor from the wire harness.

4

Remove the oxygen sensor, using socket and ratchet. If necessary, heat up the pipe surrounding the oxygen sensor with a torch for easier extraction. Allow the pipe to cool down before continuing.

5

Apply a light coat of anti-seize lubricating compound to the threads of the new oxygen sensor. Be caul not to get any of the compound onto the head of the sensor.

6

Thread the sensor into the porthole of the exhaust pipe. Tighten with the ratchet and oxygen sensor socket.

7

Plug the oxygen sensor wire back into the wiring harness.

Though it may seem unneeded, a change of the exhaust system on your Honda can make a world of difference. Also, exhaust kits can be relatively cost-affective and easy to install. The process of replacing exhaust can be done without any specialized mechanical knowledge.

Instructions

1

Back the vehicle on to blocks, or use a jack to raise the rear end of the vehicle.

2

Use a standard flathead screwdriver to remove the hose clamp from the joint between the muffler and piping. Also, unscrew the mounting clamps that keep the muffler attached to the bottom of the vehicle. Pull the muffler off the piping and away from the vehicle.

3

Remove the hose clamp that attaches the piping to the exhaust port. Remove all of the mounting clamps that keep the piping attached to the vehicle. Remove the piping.

4

Replace the old piping with newly purchased piping. Make sure to place heat-treated silicon around any joints. Attach the hose clamp to the exhaust port joint, and replace all mounting clamps.

5

Replace the old muffler with a new one. Again, place heat-treated silicon around the joint. Attach the hose clamp to the joint between the muffler and the piping, and replace all mounting clamps.

The Power Stroke engines are a series of diesel engines that Ford manufactures for its heavy trucks. Ford made the 7.3-liter Power Stroke engine from 1995 to 2002, primarily for its line of Super Duty trucks. The engines in these vehicles use fuel injection, requiring a high-pressure fuel system to deliver fuel to the engine. The fuel pump for a 7.3-liter Power Stroke engine is on the undercarriage of the vehicle.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the cables on both negative battery terminals with a socket wrench to prevent the inadvertent discharge of fuel during the fuel pump replacement. Open the drain valve for the fuel filter with a socket wrench to relieve the fuel pressure. Replace the drain valve.

2

Raise the vehicle with a jack and support it with jack stands. Disconnect the wiring harness on the back of the fuel pump next to the frame rail.

3

Remove the retaining clip from the fuel line and detach the fuel line from the fuel pump. Disconnect the retaining clip that attaches the brake lines to the fuel pump bracket.

4

Disconnect the pinch bolt from the fuel pump bracket with a socket wrench. Push the bracket open and remove the fuel pump.

5

Place the new fuel pump in the fuel pump mounting bracket. Fasten the pinch bolt to the fuel pump mounting bracket and tighten it to 13 ft. lbs. with a torque wrench. Attach the brake lines to the mounting bracket with the retaining clip. Connect the fuel line to the fuel pump.

6

Attach the wiring harness to the fuel pump and lower the vehicle. Fasten the cables for the negative battery terminals with a socket wrench. Start the vehicle and check for leaks in the fuel system.

You dont need a lot of time to replace a carburetor. If you notice that your vehicle hesitates during acceleration, has problems starting in cold weather, or your engine stalls frequently, then carburetor repair may be the solution in order to prevent further damage to your engine.



Carburetors function to mix proper amounts of air and fuel to promote the viscosity of fuel. Without air, engine fuel becomes sluggish, making it difficult for fuel to circulate to the engine. Because the cost of replacing a carburetor can be expensive, beware of the signs of the need for carburetor repair.

Instructions

1

Remove air cleaner assembly from engine. Remove air box and tuning, then remove hoses and tubing leading to carburetor. Wrap tape around hoses and tubes to mark proper location for return.

2

Remove nuts and bolts of carburetor with wrenches from the intake manifold.

3

Remove old carburetor gasket from intake manifold.

4

Clean gasket area. Use degreaser and rag to clean gasket area. Spray degreaser directly to surface and allow degreaser to work. Prep area for new gasket to secure a proper fit.

5

Apply gasket sealer to both sides of the new gasket and place new gasket in proper position.

6

Attach new carburetor and use screwdriver and wrench to secure it to the intake manifold.

7

Notice the locations marked on the masking tape wrapping the hoses and tubing of the carburetor. Reconnect hoses and tubing to proper positions according to the locations marked on the tape.

8

Pour a small amount of gasoline into carburetor and start the engine. Pump the gas pedal a few times to get gas flowing to the carburetor.

9

Replace air cleaner assembly and take a short test drive on the highway to make sure carburetor is operating. After returning from the highway, let car idle for a few minutes to check for leaks.

The Chrysler Sebring was a rental fleet special (to put it favorably). Chrysler made the Sebring with lowest bidder parts and the minimum amount of research and development, which may have led to Chryslers dire financial straits. Maintenance on Chrysler Sebrings is an unfortunate constant if you own one, as they are not made well in any sense of the word. The control arms in the Sebring support the steering knuckle and suspension components and are only on the front wheels.

Instructions

1

Park the Sebring Convertible somewhere flat and out of traffic. Empty the car out to make it lighter to jack up. Place the car jack under the corner that you want to replace the control arm on. Jack the corner up and slide in a jack stand to keep it up. Use the tire iron to remove the lug nuts from the wheel and then slide the wheel off the steering knuckle.

2

Pull the retaining pin out of the ball joint on the underside of the steering knuckle. Use a pair of pliers and a flat-head screwdriver as a pry bar. Unbolt the ball joint nut and then pry the ball joint out of the steering knuckle. Unbolt the two bolts on the lower end of the left arm of the control arm from the steering knuckle. Repeat the unbolting on the right arm of the control arm.

3

Unbolt the upper part of the control arm and then pull it down from the cars frame. Slide in the new control arm and bolt it onto the frame. Slide in the steering knuckle and thread in the two bolts on each side first to hold the knuckle in place. Tighten the bolts down with a wrench once the knuckle is properly aligned. Push the ball joint back in and bolt it into place. Slide the retaining pin back in and reattach the tire. Lower the Sebring off the jack stand.

The 22RE engine is a four-cylinder 2.4-liter engine that Toyota manufactured from 1983 to 1995. It appears in a variety of Toyota vehicles during this period, such as the Toyota Pickup. The 22RE has a single overhead camshaft, and uses a timing chain to connect the crankshaft with the camshaft. The procedure for replacing the timing chain for a 22RE is generally the same for all vehicles from 1983 to 1988.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the cylinder head with a socket wrench. Drain the coolant from the radiator, and store it for later use. Remove the radiator from the vehicle.

2

Remove the alternator from the engine with a socket wrench. Disconnect the oil pan. Remove the mounting bolts, drive belt and hoses from the air pump, if your vehicle is so equipped. Disconnect the air pump and its bracket from the engine.

3

Disconnect the water pump assembly and cooling fan from the vehicle with a socket wrench. Remove the mounting bolt for the crankshaft pulley, and detach the pulley with a gear puller.

4

Disconnect the water bypass line and the fan belt adjusting bar. Detach the outlet line from the heater. Remove the mounting bolts for the timing chain cover with a socket wrench, and disconnect the cover.

5

Detach the timing chain from the damper of the camshaft, and detach the timing chain from the camshaft sprocket. Remove the camshaft sprocket from the camshaft. Pull the crankshaft sprocket from the crankshaft. Disconnect the spline for the oil pump from the crankshaft.

6

Rotate the crankshaft clockwise until the key on the crankshaft points straight up, and mount the crankshaft sprocket onto the crankshaft. Place the new timing chain on the crankshaft sprocket, and align the single bright link on the timing chain with the crankshaft sprockets timing mark.

7

Place the timing chain on the camshaft sprocket. Mount the camshaft sprocket to the camshaft so that the camshafts timing mark is between the two bright links on the timing chain.

8

Install the oil pump spline to the crankshaft. Mount the timing chain gasket to the engine block, and take up the slack in the timing chain by turning the camshaft sprocket counterclockwise with a socket wrench.

9

Connect the timing chain cover, and use a torque wrench to tighten the 8mm bolts to 9 foot-pounds. Torque the 10mm mounting bolts to 29 foot-pounds. Coat the gaskets for the timing chain cover and oil pan with sealer. Connect the fan belt adjusting bar, and tighten its bolt to 9 foot-pounds.

10

Attach the water bypass line. Mount the pulley onto the crankshaft, and tighten the mounting bolt. Connect the water pump and compressor for the air conditioner with a socket wrench. Install the oil pan, radiator and cylinder head in that order.

11

Replace the oil and coolant to their proper levels. Start the vehicle and check for fluid leaks.

The Chrysler Concorde was a full-size, four-door sedan with front-wheel drive manufactured from 1993 to 2004. The most common engine in the 1993 model was a six-cylinder 3.3-liter engine with fuel injection. The fuel injectors send fuel to the engine and are part of the fuel rail assembly. The majority of the fuel injector replacement procedure for a 1993 Concorde deals with removing and installing the fuel rail assembly from the engine.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the negative battery cable with a socket wrench to prevent the engine from starting during the procedure. Loosen the cap on the fuel tank to relieve the pressure in the fuel tank. Remove the cap for the fuel pressure test port on the fuel rail.

2

Place the open end of the hose on tool C-4799-1 into a container approved for gasoline. Connect tool C-4799-1 to the fuel pressure test port and open the valve on the tool. Allow the fuel to drain into the container to relieve the pressure in the fuel system. Disconnect tool C-4799-1 from the fuel pressure test port and replace the cap on the fuel pressure test port.

3

Detach the air plenum from the throttle body and the air cleaner. Hold the throttle in the open position, and remove the linkages for the cruise control and throttle body from the throttle shaft.

4

Detach the electrical connectors from the exhaust gas recirculation valve and manifold absolute pressure sensor. Disconnect the vacuum hoses from the positive crankcase ventilation valve and the fuel pressure regulator. Remove the brake booster hose and throttle body purge hose from the intake manifold.

5

Detach the electrical connectors from the throttle position sensor and the idle air control motor. Disconnect the mounting screws for the exhaust gas recirculation tube with a socket wrench and remove the tube from the upper intake manifold. Disconnect the mounting bolts for the intake manifold plenum and remove the plenum from the engine.

6

Detach the fuel line from the fuel rail by pushing the quick-disconnect fitting on the fuel line with Special Quick-Connect Fitting Tool 6751. Wrap shop towels around the fuel line and disconnect the fuel line from the fuel rail. Disconnect the clamp on the fuel line with a socket wrench and remove the fuel line from its bracket.

7

Turn the fuel injectors on the fuel rail towards the center of the engine, and detach the electrical connectors from the fuel injectors. Disconnect the mounting bolts for the fuel rail and lift the fuel rail directly up from the engine.

8

Remove the retainer clip for the fuel injector and pull the injector out of the fuel rail. Install new O-rings to the new fuel injector and apply a light coat of engine oil to the upper O-ring. Install the fuel injector onto the fuel rail and attach its retainer clip. Apply a light coat of engine oil to the nozzle end of the fuel injector.

9

Complete the installation of the fuel injectors by performing steps two through six in reverse sequence. Tighten the mounting bolts for the fuel rail to 16 ft. lbs. with a torque wrench. Torque the mounting bolts for the intake manifold plenum to 21 ft. lbs. Connect the negative battery cable with a socket wrench.

Replacing a tail light lens on your Oldsmobile Ciera requires removing the entire tail light assembly. The lens is molded to the rest of the assembly and cannot be removed separately. The assembly comes off the car very quickly and replacement light assemblies are readily available from the dealer or through some auto parts retailers. If you are on a budget, a more affordable option is to source this part through a salvage yard.

Instructions

1

Open the trunk of your Oldsmobile and locate the two retaining screws on the inboard edge of the tail light assembly. Remove both screws using a Phillips screwdriver and set them aside for later reuse.

2

Pull the tail light assembly away from the body and locate the bulb sockets on the rear of the assembly. Rotate the bulb socket counterclockwise to unlock it from the assembly, then pull the socket and bulb out of the assembly.

3

Install the bulb sockets into the rear of the new taillight assembly; rotate them clockwise to lock them in place. Now is a good time to replace any bulbs in the rear that may not be working.

4

Position the new tail light assembly on the rear of the car and install the two retaining screws through the tail light, threading them into the body. Tighten the screws with a Phillips screwdriver until they are snug, but do not over-tighten them or you will crack the plastic.

5

Repeat the process for the opposite side assembly, if needed. Close the trunk of the car.

The oxygen sensor is an integral part of your Dakotas emissions system. It monitors the amount of oxygen in the exhaust. When an O2 sensor fails, your Dakota may hesitate or your fuel mileage may noticeably decrease. If your Check Engine light comes on, the O2 sensor may be to blame. Most auto parts stores will scan the computer for you to determine the problem at no cost. Purchase replacement sensors from an auto parts store or Dodge dealership.

Instructions

1

Lift your Dakota using a jack. Secure the truck on a set of jack stands so that you can comfortably work under it.

2

Locate the downstream oxygen sensor on the pipe behind the catalytic converter, running beside the frame rail. Disconnect the wiring from the sensor by pulling it straight out of the connector. Remove the O2 sensor using an oxygen sensor socket and a ratchet.

3

Install the replacement sensor with the oxygen sensor socket and the ratchet, turning it clockwise until it is secure. Torque the sensor to 22 foot-pounds with a torque wrench. Connect the wiring harness to the sensor by plugging it into the connection on the sensor.

4

Locate the upstream O2 sensors on either side of the transmission oil pan. There is an exhaust pipe running on each side of the pan with sensors in each one. Disconnect the wiring harness from each of the sensors then remove the sensors with the oxygen sensor socket and ratchet.

5

Install the new sensors in each location using the oxygen sensor ratchet. Torque the sensors to 22 foot-pounds with a torque wrench. Attach the wiring harness to the sensors by plugging them straight into the connections on the sensors.

6

Raise the vehicle up with the jack and remove the jack stands. Lower the vehicle to the ground.

Dodge introduced the Caravan in 1983 and still manufactures the vehicle. This minivan was equipped with a 3.3 liter V6 engine that had an output of 158 brake horsepower, which is pretty impressive for a family car. The V6 engine was designed to have two head gaskets, one on each side of the block. The head gaskets must occasionally be replaced because a blown or a leaking head gasket may cause bad engine performance.

Instructions

1

Drain the cooling system and disconnect the negative battery cable. Remove the intake manifold and throttle body. Disconnect the coil wires, sending unit wire, heater hoses and by-pass hose. Remove the closed ventilation system, evaporation control system and cylinder head covers.

2

Remove the exhaust manifolds. Remove the rocker arm and shaft assemblies. Remove the push rods and identify each one of them to ensure re-installation in the original locations. Remove the nine head bolts from each cylinder head, and remove the cylinder heads.

3

Inspect the surface of the cylinder head. Remove the old head gasket. Before cleaning, check for leaks, damage and cracks. Clean the cylinder head and oil passages. Check the cylinder head for flatness. Inspect all surfaces with a straightedge if you suspect leakage. If out of flatness exceeds 0.00075 inches, either replace the head or lightly machine the head surface.

4

Clean all debris, coolant and dirt from the engine block cylinder head bolt holes. Failure to remove all foreign material may result in improperly tightened fasteners, damaged threads or damage to components. Install the new head gasket. To re-install all parts, follow the same operation in reverse.

The 40 mm, constant velocity, Keihan Carb is probably the most common carburetor on motorcycles. It has been standard equipment on BMWs, Harleys and on several Japanese bikes as well. In a nutshell, you change the needle and seat by removing the top of the carburetor, pull out the vacuum piston and the three small parts inside, reassemble the vacuum piston with a new needle, and screw the top back on the carburetor.

Instructions

1

Set the carburetor, top-side up, on a bed of rags on a stable surface. Remove the four screws that hold the top on the carburetor with a flat-head screwdriver.

2

Remove the top, the small collar and the long spring. Lift out the vacuum piston from the middle of the carburetor along with the small parts inside.

3

Remove the needle and the spring seat from the vacuum piston.

4

Reassemble by placing the needle through the center hole in the vacuum piston. Place the spring seat over the top of the needle.

5

Reinsert the vacuum piston into the carburetor body so the vacuum piston fits in the slide track grooves. If the piston does not fit, turn it 180 degrees. Ensure the diaphragm seats evenly in the groove on top of the carburetor body.

6

Place the spring over the spring seat, and carefully lower the top. Hold the top down with one hand.

7

Insert one finger from your other hand into the venturi, and raise and lower the vacuum piston to ensure the spring is not binding.

8

Screw the top back on the carburetor with a flat-head screwdriver.

The 2005 Honda Accord uses different light bulbs in each headlight assembly for the low beams and high beams. Changing a low beam bulb involves a different procedure than the high beam bulb. To ensure the correct bulb is being replaced, its best to locate the faulty bulb before purchasing and replacing it in order to obtain the correct part. The bulbs look the same but are intended for different uses. The low beam bulbs are on the outer edge of the headlight assembly, and the high beam bulbs are on the inner edge.

Instructions

Low Beams

1

Start the engine and turn the steering wheel in the opposite direction of the headlight being replaced. Turn it all the way to the right if replacing the drivers side low beam or all the way to the left if replacing the passengers side low beam. Turn the engine off and ensure the headlight switch is in the "Off" position.

2

Remove the two retaining clips holding the inner fender splash cover with a flat head screwdriver. Pop the center pin of the retaining clip upward then pull the clip assembly out of the fender splash cover.

3

Pull the fender splash cover away from the fender and bumper with one hand and reach in with the other hand to grasp the socket of the low beam headlight bulb.

4

Disconnect the wire harness plug from the headlight bulb by squeezing in on the sides to unlock it then pull it off the socket of the low beam headlight bulb.

5

Rotate the bulb socket a 1/4 turn counterclockwise to align its retaining tabs to the release grooves of the headlight assembly then remove the bulb.

6

Hold the replacement 9006 low beam headlight bulb by its socket to avoid touching the glass bulb. Oils and perspiration in skin will damage the bulb.

7

Align the retaining tabs of the bulb socket to the release grooves in the headlight assembly. Push slightly inward and rotate the socket a 1/4 turn clockwise to lock it in place. Reconnect the wire harness plug and test the headlight before replacing the retaining tabs of the fender splash cover.

High Beams

8

Open the hood and remove the two retaining clips from the air intake cover on the passengers side high beam with the screwdriver as noted in Step 3. For the drivers side high beam replacement, proceed to Step 2.

9

Detach the wire harness connection from the high beam bulb by squeezing the sides to unlock it then pulling it out of the bulb socket.

10

Rotate the socket of the headlight bulb a 1/4 turn counterclockwise to remove it from the headlight assembly.

11

Install the replacement 9006 headlight bulb (again, do not touch the glass bulb section) by reversing the removal procedure.

12

Reconnect the wire harness plug to the headlight bulb socket and test the headlight before replacing the air intake cover and retaining clips for the passengers side.