Fix It

Empty the carburetor of fuel by closing the petcock and starting the engine. Let the engine run until it stalls.

Remove the entire air cleaner assembly, including the air cleaner cover, the air cleaner and the air cleaner backing plate. Use an Allen wrench to remove the cover, Torx sockets or drivers to remove the air cleaner and a socket wrench to remove the backing plate. Disconnect the breather tubes by hand.

Detach the enrichener knob from the bracket above the horn.

Pull the carburetor partly out of the black, rubber seal ring that connects it to the intake manifold. Use a flashlight or shop light to locate the enrichener cable and find where it screws into the carburetor. Remove the old cable by unscrewing it.

Clip the knob end of the new enrichener assembly into the bracket above the horn. Snake the enrichener valve end of the new enrichener cable assembly under the gas tank to the back of the carburetor.

Insert the wire and ball end of the enrichener valve into the opening in the back of the carburetor. Thread and hand-tighten the black, plastic cable sealing cap on the end of the enrichener assembly to the back of the carburetor. Do not use a wrench.

Reseat the carburetor in the seal ring. Visually inspect the carburetor. Reattach the entire air cleaner assembly, including the breather tubes.

Remove and discard the original equipment clutch lever clamp mounting screws with an Allen wrench. Retain the clamp.

Insert the new clamp mounting screws included with the Zumo kit into the GPS

mounting bracket. Insert the screw threads through the holes in the clutch lever clamp and into the clutch lever housing.

Adjust the hand lever position so it is comfortable. Tighten the new mounting screws to between 60 and 80 inch pounds of torque with an Allen socket and torque wrench.

Insert the mounting ball stud through the lower holes in the mounting ball clamp and the Zumo mounting bracket. Thread the lock nut onto the stud from behind the mounting bracket and tighten with an Allen socket and torque wrench to between 72 and 144 inch pounds of torque.

Insert the mounting plate screws included with the kit through the mounting plate and upper ball clamp so the screw heads face away from the rider. Place the upper ball clamp over the mounting ball so the holes align with those in the lower ball clamp.

Thread the mounting plate screws into the lower ball clamp. Sit on the motorcycle and adjust the mounting plate to the viewing angle that is most visible for you.

Tighten the mounting plate screws to between 36 and 60 inch pounds of torque with an Allen socket and a torque wrench.

Attach the cradle mount to the mounting plate with one of the flat head screws included with the Zumo mounting kit. Ensure that the cradle mount weather cap faces down when attached. Insert three more flat head screws through the remaining holes in the cradle. Tighten the screws with an Allen socket and a torque wrench to 20 inch pounds of torque.

Plug the round 4-pin DIN connector on the Zumo power harness into the front of the cradle and fasten securely with the mounting screws included in the mounting kit and an Allen wrench.

Route the Zumo power harness following the existing wiring from the left side handlebar switches to the center of the handlebar. Tie the harness in place with the cable straps included with the kit.

Unfasten the Allen nut that secures the seat tab to the rear fender with an Allen wrench. Remove the seat by pulling up and back.

Route the Zumo power harness following existing wiring through the triple tree and along the motorcycle frame to a general location under the seat. Fasten the harness to the frame with cable ties included with the kit.

Remove the hex nut from the ground screw with an open end wrench; the ground screw is located on top of the frame near the fuel tank. Attach a ring terminal from the kit to the ground screw.

Cut the black wire on Zumo wire harness with side blade pliers and crimp the ring terminal to the black wire with a wire crimping tool. Replace and tighten the ground screw hex nut.

Turn the handlebars all the way to the left and all the way to the right to ensure that none of the wire harness binds.

Grasp the electrical side cover on the left side of the bike (near the battery) with both hands and pull to remove. Slice open two inches of the main harness wrap with a sharp knife.

Cut the orange/white main harness power lead with side blade pliers. Splice the red Zumo wire to the two ends of the orange/white power wire with the blue, sealed, 2-into-1 splice connector included with the kit. Seal the connections with a wire crimping tool.

Replace the seat, tab washer and Allen bolt. Install the Zumo into the cradle mount following the instructions included in the GPS kit.

Unload the motorcycle. Unload the saddlebags.

Bounce the rear of the motorcycle up and down several times. Ensure the suspension is free and not binding.

Measure the distance from the center of the upper shock bolt to the center of the lower shock bolt with a steel ruler.

Heat the handle of an appropriately sized combination box/open end wrench with a propane or oxyacetylene torch. Heat the handle about two inches, or an appropriate distance, from the box end. Heat until the spot turns dull red.

Put the box end in a vise and bend the wrench 90 degrees. Allow the wrench to cool. Remove it from the vise.

Heat a spot on the same wrench about 1/2 inch from the box end until it also glows dull red. Put the hot end in the vise and bend the wrench 90 degrees so that the box end is once again parallel to the wrench handle but offset 1 inches.

Allow the wrench to cool. Remove it from the vise and use it to turn otherwise inaccessible nuts in impossible to reach places on your motorcycle.

Remove the seat from your motorcycle by loosening the seat bolt with an Allen wrench and access your motorcycle battery. Disconnect both battery cables.

Tightly wrap the exact screwdriver you need magnetized with about two feet of insulated, copper wire. Leave about two inches of wire on each end unwrapped.

Strip and straighten each end of the insulated wire. Note the approximate distance between the positive and negative terminals on your motorcycle battery. Arrange the stripped ends of the insulated wire wrapped around the screwdriver so they are about the same distance apart as the terminals on your battery.

Put on sunglasses. Put on leather gloves. Wrap the handle of the screwdriver with clean, oil free rags.

Touch one end of the wire to the positive battery terminal. Boldly touch the other end of the wire to the negative terminal.

Drop the screwdriver when it becomes too hot to hold or when the rags begin to smoke after about five seconds. Allow the screwdriver to cool.

Remove the insulated wire. Use the magnetized screw driver to retrieve lost screws and bolts in otherwise inaccessible nooks and crannies of your motorcycle.

Crimp two threaded hose fittings with a crimper tool to both ends of a five foot section of rubber air hose. Screw tire nozzles, like the ones in gas stations, to both fittings.

Pack the hose in your saddlebags when riding across the Mojave or other relatively unpopulated regions with your friends. Use the hose to siphon air from your friends motorcycle tires when you develop a slow leak.

Lift the rear of the Rocker seat and pull up and back. Remove the two exposed Allen bolts just behind the gas tank with an Allen wrench. Remove the seat.

Remove the four Torx bolts, two on each side of the bike, that secure the seat support assembly to the motorcycle chassis with a socket wrench and Torx socket. Remove the seat support assembly.

Loosen the four hex head bolts that secure the black, plastic, guard under the seat assembly with a socket wrench and hex socket. Remove the guard.

Disconnect the rear wiring harness connector halves.

Remove the lower fender mounting bolts and washers with a socket wrench and Torx socket. Remove the upper fender mounting screws and washers with a Torx socket. Remove the rear fender.

Remove the harness clipped to the right side of the electrical compartment splash guard just forward of the rear wheel. Remove the two hex head bolts and washers that secure the splash guard to the chassis. Remove the splash guard.

Remove the two bolts that secure the electrical compartment cover to the electrical compartment body with an open end wrench. Locate the ECM next to a fuse marked "40."

Unplug the ECM from its pigtail connection to the wiring harness. Remove the ECM and install the new ECM.

Reinstall the electrical compartment cover, the splash guard and the rear fender. Reconnect the rear wiring harness connector halves. Reinstall the seat support assembly guard, the seat support assembly and the seat.

Remove the seat by loosening the Allen screw that connects the seat locking tab to the rear fender.

Grab the sideplate on the right side of the motorcycle with both hands and pull. Pry the full pump fuse from the fuse block with a small flat head screwdriver.

Start the engine in neutral and allow the engine to run until it stalls. Operate the starter for 3 seconds after the bike stalls.

Disconnect the negative battery wire from the battery terminal with an open end wrench.

Remove the acorn nut and washer on instrument console with an Allen wrench. Separate the instrument console from the fuel tank.

Unplug the plastic fuel-pump module connector from the wiring harness. Remove the 10 fuel tank top-plate fasteners with an Allen wrench. Remove the top plate.

Reach into the fuel tank and push the fuel pump housing down to disengage it from the pump housing and disengage it from the end cap.

Pull the fuel pump out of the fuel tank just far enough to reach the fuel gauge sending unit on the right interior of the fuel tank.

Pull the fuel sender attachment tab towards the top of the fuel tank to release the sending unit from mounting tabs. Remove the fuel sender and float.

Examine the spark plug wires and the connections between the plug wires, the spark plugs and the coil. If the plug wires are cracked, frayed or visibly corroded they must be replaced. If any connection is loose push it back together with your fingers.

Remove the front and back spark plugs with a socket wrench and a spark plug socket. Remove each spark plug by turning it counterclockwise and look for visible signs of fouling. The electrodes should be light tan or gray and intact. Replace if fouled.

Remove the plug wire leads from the coil electrodes. Look for corrosion on the coil electrodes. Remove any corrosion with a wire brush.

Remove the seat bolt from the back of your seat. Pull the seat back off to access the battery. Your battery is dead if the solenoid chatters when you try to start the bike. If the battery is dead, then connect the positive and negative leads from a motorcycle battery charger to the same terminals on your battery.

Charge the battery for four hours. Attempt to restart the Ultra Classic.

Examine the battery terminals and cables for signs of corrosion. Remove any corrosion with a wire brush. Replace the battery if it will not charge or if a terminal is broken.

Troubleshoot your carburetor. Remove the air cleaner cover by unscrewing the Allen bolt or bolts securing it to the air cleaner.

Loosen the air cleaner by removing the three or four Torx bolts that secure the air cleaner to the backing plate. Hold the air cleaner in your less dominant hand while you disconnect the breather tubes from the top of the air cleaner with a box wrench.

Remove the air cleaner backing plate. Examine both throttle cables. Ensure they are both attached to the throttle cam.

Access the fuel air adjustment screw on the bottom of the carburetor. Gently turn the adjustment screw clockwise with a small, flat-head screwdriver until it is fully closed. Turn the adjustment screw counterclockwise 2-1/8 turns. Attempt to start the motorcycle again.

Drain your motor oil into a pan using the proper procedure for your Harley. Most Harleys use a drain plug. Softails drain through a hose.

Remove the oil filter with an oil filter wrench and drain the residual oil into the pan. Clean all spilled oil off the front of the motorcycle with rags. Legally dispose of all waste.

Remove the oil feed hose from the oil pump. Remove the feed hose fitting from the crankcase and discard the oil feed hose.

Apply gasket and thread sealer to two oil line fittings included with your Harley oil cooler kit. Attach one fitting to the oil pump and the other to the crankcase. Torque to between 55 and 65 inch-pounds.

Loosely install the oil cooler return hose assembly included with your kit to the crankcase fitting. Loosely install the oil cooler supply hose assembly in your kit to the oil pump fitting.

Remove the two clips that secure your clutch cable and wire harness to the left frame down tube of your motorcycle. Replace them with the oil cooler clamps included in your kit.

Loosely attach the oil cooler to the clamps using the Allen screws and hex nuts in your kit. Use a flathead screwdriver to attach the oil return hose to the inboard connection of the oil cooler with a hose clamp.

Attach the oil feed hose to the outboard connection of the oil using a hose clamp and flathead screwdriver. Tighten the hose clamps.

Adjust the oil cooler so it is facing forward and there is no tension on the hoses. Tighten the oil cooler clamp screws to 30 inch-pounds of torque.

Insert the clutch cable and the wiring harness into the clips on the oil cooler clamps.

Disconnect the oil cooler supply hose assembly from the oil pump fitting. Attach the oil cooler return hose assembly to crankcase and tighten to 18 to 20 foot-pounds of torque.

Re-attach the oil cooler supply hose assembly to the oil pump fitting and tighten the nut to 18 to 20 foot-pounds of torque.

Install the oil line clips to the metal tubing of the oil cooler feed and supply lines.

Screw on a new oil filter. Add oil to the oil tank until the dipstick indicates that the tank is full.

Put the motorcycle in neutral. Start the motorcycle and allow it to run until the engine becomes warm. Check all fittings for leaks. Ensure that the oil cooler becomes warm.

Retighten all fasteners to torque after the engine has cooled. Remove and read the oil tank dipstick. Add oil as needed.