Fix It

Position a sealable container under the radiator drain hole and remove the drain plug. Wait for the coolant to drain into the container. Seal the container for later use. Replace the drain plug.

Remove the mounting bolts for the cooling fan shroud with a socket wrench. Disconnect the shroud from the radiator. Detach the radiator hose, bypass hose and heater hose from the water pump. Disconnect the drive belt and the cooling fan assembly, including the fan spacer and pulley.

Remove the alternator mounting bolts with a socket wrench, and move the alternator out of the way to access the water pump. You may also need to remove the power steering pump bracket if the vehicle is so equipped. Disconnect the mounting bolts for the water pump and detach the pump from the timing chain cover. Discard the water pump gasket.

Apply a thin layer of sealer to the new gasket. Install the new pump and gasket to the timing chain cover. Tighten the mounting bolts for the water pump to 18 foot-pounds with a torque wrench.

Repeat steps two and three in reverse order to complete the installation of the new water pump. Replace the coolant in the radiator.

Disconnect the negative cable from the battery, using a wrench to remove the retaining bolt. Isolate the negative cable from the battery while you work.

Locate the fuel/water separator on the firewall of your Liberty. It is to the left of the engine, directly in front of the driver. Locate the two electrical connections on the front of the separator. Depress the locking tab on the connectors and remove them from the separator body. Lay the wiring connections aside.

Remove the hose clamp on the large fuel line at the front of the separator using a flat-head screwdriver. Pull the hose off the fitting and push it aside. Locate the second fuel line on the passengers side of the separator. Remove the hose clamp from the line with a flat-head screwdriver and pull it off the fitting.

Remove the two bolts that secure the separator to the firewall of the Jeep, using a socket and ratchet. Pull the assembly off the firewall. Position the new separator on the firewall and install the retaining bolts. Tighten the bolts to 63 in.-lbs. with a torque wrench.

Connect both fuel lines to the fittings on the new separator. Attach the hose clamps and tighten them with a flat-head screwdriver. Do not overtighten them or you will damage the rubber hose and it will fail prematurely.

Attach the wiring harness connectors to the front of the assembly. They are different so you cannot plug them in wrong. Push the connectors in until they snap into place.

Reconnect the negative cable to the battery. Reattach the retaining bolt and tighten it with a wrench.

Allow the car to sit overnight to ensure the engine is cool. Place a container under the radiator and open the drain cock of the radiator. Wait for the coolant in the radiator to drain into the container. Replace the radiator drain cock.

Disconnect the cable to the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench to ensure that you dont start the engine inadvertently. Remove the timing belt and sprockets for the camshaft. Disconnect the cover for the rear timing belt.

Remove the mounting bolts for the water pump with a socket wrench, and disconnect the water pump. Discard the old O-rings for the water pump.

Apply a thin layer of dielectric grease to the new O-ring. Place the new O-ring into the groove for the water pump, and ensure that the O-ring is properly seated. Install the new water pump and tighten the mounting bolts for the water pump to 105 inch lbs. with a torque wrench.

Connect the cover for the route timing belt with a socket wrench. Attach the sprockets for the camshaft and install the timing belt. Connect the cable to the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench. Fill the radiator with coolant and start the engine. Check the cooling system for leaks and repair as necessary.

Pull your car into the garage, and turn it off. Open the hood, and take off the negative ("-") battery cable.

Put a bucket under the radiator, and position it so that its centered under the drain plug. Pull the drain plug, and let all of the coolant drain out. When there is no more coolant in the truck, reconnect the drain plug.

Remove the bolts connecting the radiator shroud to the frame. Do this by getting the right size socket and turning the bolts counterclockwise. When the bolts are off, the shroud will come off easily by hand.

Check the fan shroud for a diagram of the routing of the serpentine belt. If there is no diagram, grab a piece of scrap paper and pen and draw a diagram so that you will know how to put the serpentine belt back on when your putting the new water pump on.

Find the right-sized socket that fits the pulley tensioner bolt, and loosen it just enough to remove the belt from the water pump pulley.

Take the radiator and heater hoses off of the water pump. Squeeze the clamp with a pair of needle-nose pliers so that it gets bigger, and move it down the hose. Pull the hose from the water pump. The heater hose is located on top of the water pump, and the radiator hose is on the bottom of the water pump.

Remove the bolts holding the water pump to the engine. You need to turn them counterclockwise. If you cant remove the water pump after you have removed the bolts, then take a rubber hammer and tap on the pump until it becomes loose.

Put paint thinner on a rag, and clean off any of the old gasket from the engine. This will ensure a tight seal of the new gasket.

Put some RTV sealant on the new gasket, and put the gasket on the new water pump. Put the new water pump back into the engine, and finger tighten the bolts. Use your torque wrench to make the bolts tight.

Reinstall the radiator and heater hoses on to the water pump. The radiator hose goes on the bottom and the heater hose gets attached to the top of the water pump.

Put the serpentine belt back onto the water pump. Make sure that you check your diagram to see that you are putting the belt on correctly. Turn the tensioner bolt clockwise while using a pry bar to pull the water pump toward you.

Reinstall the radiator shroud by turning the bolts clockwise.

Reconnect the negative battery cable.

Turn the car on, and let it run until it gets to running temperature. That way any air in the lines will escape out of the open radiator. When you are satisfied that there isnt any more air, then you can put the cap back on the radiator; make sure that the cap is tight.

Allow the engine to cool completely to ensure the coolant will not cause injury. Remove the negative battery cable with a socket wrench to prevent anyone from starting the engine inadvertently.

Place a drain pan beneath the drain hole for the radiator. Remove the radiator drain plug to drain the coolant into the drain pan. Replace the radiator drain plug.

Disconnect the right splash shield from the engine with a socket wrench and remove the accessory drive belt. Unfasten the mounting bolts for the water pump pulley and position the pulley between the drive hub and the water pump. Remove the mounting bolts for the water pump and detach the water pump from the engine.

Install a new seal into the housing groove on the new water pump. Mount the new water pump to the engine and torque the mounting bolts to 105 in.-lbs. with a torque wrench. Fasten the mounting bolts for the water pump pulley and tighten them to 250 in.-lbs. Turn the water pump manually to ensure it rotates freely.

Install the accessory drive belt and right splash shield for the engine. Connect the cable for the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench. Fill the radiator with coolant and start the engine. Check and correct any leaks in the cooling system.

Place a container under the radiator and remove the drain cock. Drain the coolant into the container and replace the drain cock. Store the coolant for later use.

Disconnect the mounting bolts for the shroud on the cooling fan with a socket wrench, if your F-150 is so equipped. Remove the shroud and disconnect the hoses from the water pump. Remove the accessory drive belt, cooling fan, cooling fan pulley and fan spacer.

Remove the pivot bolt for the alternator and the mounting bolt for the alternator adjusting arm with a socket wrench. Disconnect the bracket for the power steering pump if your F-150 has power steering.

Remove the bolts that attach the water pump to the cover of the timing chain, using a socket wrench. Disconnect the water pump and discard its gasket.

Coat the new gasket with sealer and install the new gasket into its mounting groove on the timing chain cover. Connect the new water pump and tighten its mounting bolts to 18 foot-pounds with a torque wrench.

Connect the hoses to the water pump and install the shroud for the cooling fan if your vehicle is so equipped. Attach the cooling fan, the cooling fan pulley and the cooling fan spacer. Install the accessory drive belt. Replace the coolant in the radiator.

Drive the car around the block to heat the oil. Heated oil drains better from the engine block.

Turn off the engine and set the parking brake firmly. Put on the gloves and use the jack to raise the front of the car. Place the jack stands beneath the outer edges of the cars front frame. Place the chocks around the rear wheels.

Locate the oil pan drain plug under the raised car. Slightly loosen the plug by turning the nut to the left with the socket wrench. Place the newspaper under the plug and the oil filter. Slide the drain pan under the hole and pull the plug out. The contaminated engine oil will drain out of the car.

Remove the oil filter with the oil filter wrench carefully. The filter will be full of hot oil. Pour the oil into the drain pan and set the filter aside.

Open the hood and take off the oil filler cap. Wait one hour for the contaminated oil to completely drain out of your vehicle.

Insert the new oil filter and secure it in place with the wrench. Use the socket wrench to put the plug back into the oil pan. Slide the drain pan out from under the car.

Put the funnel into the oil filler hole and pour one can of engine oil into the car. Pour the engine oil flush and replace the oil filler cap.

Start your car and let the engine run for three to five minutes.

Turn the engine off and repeat the oil change process one more time. You do not need to add engine oil flush this time.

Close the hood, and use the jack to lower the car. Remove the newspaper, jack stands and wheel chocks.

Turn the petcock located on the bottom of the fuel filter/water separator counterclockwise.

Crank the engine by inserting the key into the ignition. Allow the engine to crank for 30 seconds. Check the fuel filter/water separator for air. If no air remains, turn the petcock clockwise to close the air way. Close the petcock and continue if air remains in the fuel line after cranking the engine.

Locate the hand priming bulb in the vehicles engine compartment. Repeatedly press and release the priming bulb until you see air bubbles moving toward the air release valve.

Press in on the priming bulb. Turn the air release valve counterclockwise. Keep your hand on the valve handle until fuel flows from the valve. Close the valve quickly while maintaining pressure on the priming bulb.

Wipe spilled fuel from the engine compartment with a clean rag.