Fix It

If you have lost the keys that came with your Dodge truck, you can contact a locksmith and they can attempt to cut a new key for you. However, they usually replace the lock cylinder in the doors and in the steering column. This can cost hundreds of dollars. There is a simpler and less expensive way to replace the key for your Dodge pickup truck.

Instructions

1

Locate the vehicle identification number (VIN) by looking at the dash through the lower corner of the window on the drivers side of the vehicle. The VIN number is also on your vehicle title, insurance card and registration card.

2

Contact your local Dodge dealership and confirm that they have the ability to cut you a new key. Most dealerships offer repair services.

3

Take your VIN number to the dealership. They can use the VIN number to look up the key code needed to duplicate your key.

A Dana 44 is a type of automotive axle manufactured by Dana Corporation and used by many automobile manufacturers. The Dana 44 Axle for a Scout II is made specific for a Jeep. These axles can be installed on the Jeep, but often they need to be cut down to fit properly. If you are planning on installing a Dana axle for a Scout II, you may need to cut it down so it will fit.

Instructions

1

Run a tape measure along the length of the Scout II Dana 44 axle. It should measure 58 inches in length. This signifies it is the proper axle.

2

Lay down on the ground near the front of the Jeep and measure the distance across the front axle. This is where the new Dana 44 axle will be installed. Record the measurement.

3

Run a tape measure along the new Dana 44 axle and draw a small line along the axle with a black marker at the desired cut location so it will fit onto the Jeep.

4

Press the blade of an angle grinder up to the mark on the axle where you will be cutting. Put on gloves and safety goggles for added protection. Hold the arm coming out of the side of the angle grinder with your dominant hand and the back with your non-dominant hand.

5

Flip the switch to turn on the angle grinder and press it firmly into the metal. Cut caully along the black mark. Press down on the grinder so it does not move right or left when you are cutting and continue until the piece has been cut in two.

The drive cycle is a process where the vehicle is driven from a cold start and operated for a specific period of time, and at certain speeds, in order to allow the powertrain control module, or PCM, to perform certain diagnostic procedures and gather performance data. In order to reset the process and start from the beginning of the drive cycle, a number of steps must be completed. Failure to follow the specific procedure for resetting the drive cycle can delay the programming and configuration of certain modules, as well as alter previously gathered diagnostic data.

Instructions

1

Fill the fuel tank at least 15 percent full, but no more than 85 percent full. Having the tank too low or completely full will prevent the PCM from properly completing the drive cycle.

2

Park the vehicle and turn off the engine. Turn the ignition on and connect a scan tool to the vehicle. Clear any existing diagnostic trouble codes from the PCMs memory.

3

Turn the ignition completely off and allow the vehicle to cool for at least eight hours. The engine and the vehicle must be at room temperature to ensure a cold start at the beginning of the drive cycle. This can take up to eight hours.

4

Start the engine and confirm that the malfunction indicator lamp, or MIL, is not illuminated. Immediately turn off all accessories, such as the air conditioner and blower fan. The vehicle is now ready to begin a fresh OBD-II drive cycle.

A sure sign of air conditioning problems is a lack of cool air coming out of the vents in your van or other vehicle. The problem might be with the compressor or motor, but it might just be a leak. The leak might not be your only issue, but it must be addressed before fixing any other components of the air conditioning system.

Instructions

1

Look in your vehicles owners manual to determine what type of rigerant your van uses.

2

Set the rigerant leak-detector to the appropriate setting. The setting varies based on the type of rigerant your vehicle uses. It is typically labeled CFC, HCFC or HFC, and must be set correctly to locate the source of the leaks.

3

Move the rigerant leak-detectors sensor along the air conditioning hoses and other components, looking for the indicators of a leak. The indicators vary in different rigerant leak-detectors, but are often represented by a buzzer or other sound.

4

Pay special attention to connection points. Move the sensor across all sides of the hoses and other components.

5

Mark each leak with masking tape. This allows the mechanic addressing the leaks to easily locate it.

Chevrolet designs, manufactures, and markets the Silverado, a full-sized pick-up truck. The term "Silverado" was first used to describe a trim package on Chevrolet pick-up trucks beginning in 1975. For repair and maintenance of Silverado pick-up trucks, owners need to be able to find the correct parts.

Instructions

1

Go to the Auto Parts Giant website. (See Resources.) Select the "Year," "Make," "Model," "Sub model (if applicable)" and "Engine Size" for your Silverado. Press "Go." Type the part that you are looking for into the "Search" box. Press "Search." Review the results and identify the part you are looking for. The part number appears in the product description.

2

Go to the Napa website. Click "Select a Vehicle" and click the features that match your Silverado truck, such as "Year." Enter the part you are looking for in the "Part Number Search" box. Press "Search." The results display the part number.

3

Launch the Auto Zone web page. Click "Manage My Vehicle" and "Add A Vehicle." Select the details for your Silverado truck and "Look Up Parts." Click on the appropriate category and the specific part to view the part number.

The Regal started out as a top trim level on the Buick Century in 1973, and five years later split off to become its own model. That was good timing, too; while earlier Centuries had been beautiful and stylish cruisers, by 1978 the car was set to devolve into a terrible little hatchback. The Regal, though, went on to both parent the awesome Grand National and GNX, and to carry the Buick performance banner through the companys retirement-home years.

Time Schedules

Most maintenance schedule intervals measure in miles of use, but some go completely by time. Oil change intervals, oddly, are one of them. General Motors recommends changing the oil only when the oil life monitoring system tells you to, or every 12 months -- whichever comes first. Every six months, you should inspect the brake system pads and lines, the CV joint boots for grease leakage, the cooling system hoses and clamps, the exhaust, fuel, steering, suspension and throttle systems. Realistically, unless you never drive the car, these six-month inspections should line up pretty closely with the O-dictated oil change intervals.

Service Schedules

Manufacturers give two different types of service schedules. The "Normal" service schedule should apply to most drivers, but thats rarely the case in the real world. "Severe" service schedules are more intensive, designed to help keep cars running when they encounted car-killing conditions like lots of stop-and-go driving, extremely high or low average temperatures, bad road conditions and dusty or dirty air. In this case, the primary difference is that the Normal service schedule comes in 7,500-mile increments, and the Severe schedule comes in 6,000-mile increments. Apart from that, the Severe schedule requires air filter inspections every 15,000 miles, and filter replacement every 30,000 miles.

Normal Service Schedule

Starting from the very first interval, which your car has long since passed: Rotate the tires every 7,500 miles and replace the cabin air filter every 15,000 miles. At 30,000 miles, perform the above and replace the engine air cleaner element, inspect the supercharger lubricant if so equipped and inspect the fuel tank cap and lines regardless of when you did it on the time interval. At 60,000 miles, do all of the above and inspect the engines serpentine drive belt. Do all the same things at 90,000 as you did at 60,000. At 100,000 miles, replace the transmission fluid and filter, inspect the spark plug wires for cracking and damage, and replace the spark plugs. Perform the same service at 120,000 as you did at 60,000. Start the whole cycle over at 127,500 miles.

Severe Schedule

Rotate the tires every 6,000 miles; at 15,000 miles, replace the cabin air filter and inspect the engine air filter for dirt and clogging. If you can see light through it, it should be fine. At 30,000 miles, do all of the above but replace the engine air filter, inspect the supercharger lubricant if so-equipped and inspect the fuel system. Do the same at 45,000 as you did at 15,000. At 50,000 miles, replace the transmission fluid and filter. At 60,000, rotate the tires, replace the cabin filter, replace the engine air filter, inspect the supercharger lubricant, and inspect the fuel system and the drive belt. Do the same at 75,000 as you did at 45,000, and do the same at 90,000 as at 30,000. At 100,000, replace the spark plugs, inspect the plug wires and replace the transmission fluid and filter. Do the same at 120,000 as at 60,000, and start the cycle over at 126,000 miles.

Special Notes

If youve just bought the car or youve lost track of the servicings, then perform every maintenance task to "reset" your service schedule clock. Replace the oil even if the O doesnt specify it, and start over from Mile Zero by replacing the air filter element, cabin filter, serpentine belt and spark plugs. Inspect the fuel system and oiling system, rotate or replace the tires, inspect the plug wires, and grease all of the grease fittings on the chassis. However, if you dont know the cars history, then DO NOT, under any circumstances, get a full transmission flush. Old fluid breaks down and develops a unique chemistry of its own, and completely new fluid circulating between the transmissions clutches may not mix with old fluid soaked into the clutch material. The result: slipping and burned clutches, and a fried transmission. If youre starting over from Mile Zero with a full maintenance regimen, just perform a filter change and transmission fluid drain-and-fill, then another drain-and-fill at 6,000 and 12,000 miles. This gradual method of replacing the transmission fluid will give your clutches time to absorb and acclimate to the new fluid without slipping and frying.

The Ford Econoline (E-150) model of van was introduced in the 1960s and had a major redesign in 1975 that lasted through 1991. As of 2010, models of this van are still in production. This van is still the base model that most commercial delivery vans are built off of, and it shares many chassis and undercarriage elements with the F-series truck.

Gas Tank Capacity

The original equipment fuel tank for the Ford E-150 van is a 22-gallon fuel tank. Replacement parts are available.

Gas Tank Placement

The E-150 places the fuel tank behind the rear axle of the van in the 1989 model; after 1992, the placement of the fuel tank was changed to accommodate a 37-gallon fuel tank.

Gas Tank Construction

Like nearly every gas tank made since the 1960s, the gas tanks for the E-150 are made out of steel, coated with zinc as an anti-corrosion barrier.

Chrysler manufactures trucks under the Dodge brand, including compact trucks, midsize trucks and full-size pickups. The procedure for changing the oil pump on a Dodge truck depends upon the type of engine in the truck. Dodge trucks have a variety of engines, with a six-cylinder, 3.9-liter engine being typical for a 96 Dakota. The oil pump for this engine is attached to the rear bearing cap, which is accessible from beneath the vehicle.

Instructions

1

Detach the cable from the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench. Raise the vehicle with a jack and support it on jack stands. Place a drain pan below the oil drain. Remove the plug for the oil drain with a socket wrench. Allow the oil to drain into the pan and replace the drain plug.

2

Disconnect the mounting bolts for the oil pan with a socket wrench. Remove the drain pan and discard the gasket. Remove the screen for the oil pump with a socket wrench. Disconnect the bolts that fasten the oil pump to the rear main bearing cap. Detach the oil pump from the vehicle.

3

Pour clean engine oil into the intake of the new oil pump. Turn the driveshaft of the oil pump manually until the oil exits the pressure port of the oil pump. Continue turning the driveshaft until no air bubbles are present in the oil.

4

Hold the oil pump against the rear main bearing cap and tighten the mounting bolts to 130 foot-pounds with a torque wrench. Connect the screen to the oil pump. Mount a new gasket to the oil pan and install the oil pan.

5

Lower the vehicle and connect the cable to the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench. Check the vehicle for oil leaks.

Owning a Mercedes-Benz automobile has its advantages. Mercedes-Benz enjoys a reputation for automotive quality, safety and longevity. But repairing them requires certain specialized tools. Mechanic shops specialize in repair and maintenance of Mercedes-Benz automobiles, but you can find and purchase the specialized tools yourself. Tools for Mercedes-Benz automobiles are varied and divided into function. There are specialized tools for everything from automatic transmissions to wheels and tires.

Automatic Transmission Tools

There are a variety of specialized tools to work on automatic transmissions within Mercedes-Benz automobiles. They include tools as basic as the oil level dipstick for viewing the oil level height to various drive shaft groove nut socket wrenches. Clutch pack compressors help remove the snap ring. A brake band piston loader is a specialized assembly tool for brake pistons. A special axial play parallel rest tool measures axial play--the side-to-side movement--on the gear sets.

General Engine Tools

Specialized tools designed for general engine use are available for Mercedes-Benz vehicles. These include a special slide hammer adapter for removing the precombustion chambers from early- and late-model turbo diesels, and a specialized diesel pin wrench. A special "pencil" type, extra-long glow plug bore reamer removes heavy carbon deposits in glow plugs--a sometimes necessary first step to removing the plugs--for models 1996 to the current year. There is also one for models from 1983 and for nonturbo models from 1967 to 1985.

Electrical Equipment and Tools

Special Mercedes-Benz tools are designed to work on the vehicles electrical systems. These include a wire terminal and connector crimping master kit. The kit includes the basic crimper and five interchangeable magnetic crimping heads, along with a one-handed wire stripper that crimps butt, hex, coaxial, insulated, noninsulated, closed, flag and cord end Mercedes-Benz terminals of varying sizes. A special Mercedes-Benz data scanner reads and resets fault codes and reads live data for road tests. Also available is a bearing and race puller for use on battery terminals, small gears and bearings and relay pliers for easy removal of the Mercedes-Benz Bosch electrical relays, in the smallest, tightest locations.

Car keys come in various forms depending on the make, model and year of your vehicle. Newer-model cars feature keys equipped with computer chips that correspond to the computer chip in your specific vehicle. Older-model vehicles do not have computer chips in the keys. If you lose your car key, you have two options: call the dealership of your vehicle or call a professional locksmith.

Instructions

1

Locate your cars vehicle identification number (VIN). VINs are recorded in your original vehicle paperwork, on your insurance information, and on your vehicle registration and title. You can also locate your VIN by looking at the bottom left side of your windshield or at the drivers door panel.

2

Call the dealership specific to your vehicles make, or call any professional locksmith. Both are equipped to make replacement keys for vehicles with and without computer chips in the keys.

3

Provide the locksmith/dealership with your VIN. The VIN states the specifics of your car, such as whether or not the key needs programming, and the cut of your key to make it match your car.

4

Pay for your new keys and the service of either the dealership or locksmith.

After you have retrieved the transmission code on your 95 Dodge Intrepid and had the transmission repaired, the code should reset itself. However, this is not always the case. You might see a warning light on the instrument panel even after the vehicle has been repaired. To reset the transmission code and shut off the light, either disconnect the battery or clear the code using an OBD I scan tool. It is better to use the scan tool because disconnecting the battery will erase all of the computers codes and you will have to reset the radio, clock, alarm and other components.

Instructions

1

Plug the OBD I scan tool into the port under the drivers side dashboard near the steering column. Dont force it in. Just turn it until it fits so you dont damage the pins.

2

Put the key into the ignition and turn it to the "On" position, but dont crank the engine. Wait while the scan tool retrieves the codes.

3

Find and select the "Delete Codes" option. This will clear the transmission codes as well as other trouble codes. The computer is now reset. Unplug the scan tool from the port.

4

Start the engine and verify that all warning lights have shut off of the instrument panel.

Learning to weld requires hands-on practice. You should always begin with small projects until you develop solid habits involving the metal bead and handling the gun. The best small projects for practice involve anything that does not have a visible weld joint or require structural integrity, such as vehicle floor panels, railing repair and small boxes.

Floor Panels

Most older trucks and cars have rusted-out floor panels. Replacement requires cutting out the panel and installing new metal. The project has a lot of leeway for learning. Since the end result is typically covered with carpet, the aesthetic value of the weld, such as clean and smooth joints, is immaterial. You can cut out damaged sections and practice installing new sections without concern for how the end-result will appear. Floor panels do not have load-bearing properties, making the project ideal for beginners.

Railing Repair

Metal handrails often have loose or removed support beams. A standard rail holds 10 to 20 vertical supports per section. The project requires a person to clamp the supports into place, and weld the beams at the top and bottom. The welds are short and quick, leaving little room for error. The process gives a beginner ample opportunity to learn tack-welding. The seams are visible and the structure does have load requirements; however, the beam is one of many. A poorly done job is offset by the remaining support beams.

Metal Boxes

Making a metal box, such as a curio box or small toolbox, is an ideal project for beginners. The project teaches cutting techniques and welding internal joints--and can be tailored to the level of the welder. A small, simple square box is ideal for beginners. However, a more complex, hand-carried toolbox would help more seasoned veterans improve on established skills. Most small boxes can be made of scrap materials allowing students to learn without wasting material.

The 1990 Ford Ranger 2.3-liter pickup uses a concentric slave cylinder, which is located inside the transmission. This means that the transmission must be removed to replace the slave cylinder. When you remove the transmission, if the clutch is older, it is a good idea to replace it at the same time, simply because of the time required to complete the job. You will need a special clutch coupling removal tool, part number T88T-70522-A, which is available at any Ford dealership.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the battery ground cable and lay it aside, making sure that it does not touch metal. Use the clutch coupling removal tool to disconnect the coupling at the transmission. Slide the white, plastic sleeve towards the slave cylinder with one hand and tug on the tube with the other.

2

Remove the lever, shim and bushing from the transmission with the appropriate sockets. Stuff a rag into the opening to keep dirt and debris from falling into the transmission. Disconnect the clutch master cylinder push rod from the clutch pedal with the appropriate socket.

3

Jack up the Ranger with a floor jack and support it on jack stands. Make a mark on the drive shaft and at the same place on the rear axle flange so you know how to line up the drive shaft when you put it back in. Remove the drive shaft at the axle with the appropriate socket then pull it out of the rear of the transmission. Plug the housing to prevent fluid from leaking out.

4

Unbolt and remove the dust shield from the clutch housing with the appropriate socket. Remove the wires from the starter and lay them aside. Remove the harness for the back-up light (near the starter). Unbolt and remove the starter with the appropriate socket. Unscrew the speedometer cable from the transmission and set it out of the way.

5

Place a block of wood on one of the floor jacks. Slide it under the engine oil pan and jack it up so that the wood just touches the bottom of the oil pan to support the engine. Place a second jack under the transmission. If you are using a lift, use a transmission jack instead.

6

Remove the bell housing bolts and washers with the appropriate socket. Remove the transmission mounting bolts and the damper retaining bolts and nuts with the appropriate socket. Unbolt and remove the cross-member.

7

Lower the transmission jack and, at the same time, work the transmission off its dowel pins. Pull the transmission towards the back of the Ranger then place it on the ground. If you are using a floor jack, you can leave it on the floor jack if it is stable on the jack.

8

Remove the clutch housing-to-transmission nuts then pull the housing assembly off the transmission. Remove the slave cylinder from the input shaft. Slide the new slave cylinder over the input shaft, making sure the tower part of the slave cylinder faces the transmission.

9

Reinstall the clutch housing. The clutch housing has notches that line up with the slave cylinder. Make sure the slave cylinder is located properly in the clutch housing notches. Clean the mating surface of the clutch housing and the rear of the engine, especially around the dowel holes, with rags and carburetor cleaner. If there are burrs that will not wipe off easily, gently go over them with fine-grit sandpaper. Clean the area with carburetor cleaner and rags after sanding.

10

Raise the transmission with the jack. Line up the input shaft splines with the clutch disc splines. Move the transmission in towards the dowels, adjusting the jack as needed. Push the transmission onto the dowels.

11

Install the bell housing bolts and washers. Put the washers in place so that the bolts do not damage the aluminum bell housing. Tighten the bolts to 33 foot-pounds of torque. Move the transmission jack out of the way.

12

Reinstall the starter and tighten the bolts to 17 foot-pounds of torque. Jack the engine up with the floor jack. Reinstall the cross-member, transmission mount and damper. Tighten the bolts firmly. Remove the floor jack from under the engine. Reinstall the drive shaft by pushing it into the transmission extension housing then connecting it to the rear axle flange. Make sure the marks you made earlier line up. Reattach the washer, lock washer and the nuts. Tighten the drive shaft-to-flange nuts to 70 foot-pounds of torque.

13

Reinstall the dust shield. Tighten the dust shield bolts to 8 foot-pounds of torque. Reinstall the starter, the starter wires, the back-up lamp wiring harness and the speedometer cable. Check the transmission fluid level. Add Ford manual transmission lube as needed.

14

Remove the rags from the shifter hole. Reinstall the gearshift lever, shim and bushing with the appropriate sockets. Reinstall the lever-to-cover bolts and the boot retaining screws. Reconnect the master cylinder push rod to the clutch pedal with the appropriate socket. Attach the battery ground cable to the battery ground terminal. Bleed the clutch.

A timing light uses a strobe flash to determine the ignition timing of a car, which is the frequency of spark plugs firing. The timing light illuminates marks that the car manufacturer has placed on the engines crankshaft pulley or flywheel. The position of the marks when the engine is running indicates the timing of the spark in relation to piston position. The Equus Xenon, also called the Innova, uses a xenon bulb to read settings and connects to the spark plug with an inductive pickup. While timing analysis can be performed at home, a repair manual for the vehicle make and model is necessary to determine if the timing is set correctly.

Instructions

1

Locate the timing mark and erence pointer, which are typically located on the crankshaft pulley, vibration damper or on the flywheel. Make sure the timing mark and pointer are clean and visible, using chalk to define the marks if necessary.

2

Connect the timing light battery clips to the vehicle battery, placing the red clip on the positive (+) battery terminal and the black clip on the negative terminal. Attach one end of the supplied inductive pickup leads to the bottom of the timing light handle and the other part to the number one spark plug cable.

3

Start the engine and run it until normal operating temperature is reached. Turn on the timing light by pressing the "On/Off" switch, and the timing light will begin flashing. Adjust the timing light barrel to direct the light toward the timing marks.

4

Note the position of the rotating timing mark in relation to the erence pointer. If the readings are within the range advised in the vehicles repair manual, the ignition timing is correct. If the timing reading is not in range, an adjustment or part replacement may be necessary

5

Press the "On/"Off switch to turn the light off after use, then turn the car engine off and remove the battery clips.

In the early 1900s, people had to start their vehicles by turning a large crank at the front of the vehicle. In 1911, Cadillac approved Charles F. Ketterings design of the electric starter for its 1912 model year cars. Replacing a starter can be a difficult task in some vehicles, and it can be frustrating when the car does not start after all of your work. There are four main reasons for your car not cranking when you just got a new starter for it.

Incorrect Wiring

There are three wires that connect to the rear of the starter solenoid on most cars. If you forgot to label these wires and incorrectly reinstalled them, the starter will not work at all. Double-check the wiring of the starter against a wiring schematic for the starting system and adjust it, as needed.

Electrical Shorts

Any time you replace any electrical component on your vehicle that has constant voltage from the battery, you must disconnect the battery prior to servicing it. If you left the battery connected while installing the starter, it is possible for you to unintentionally touch the power and ground cables together. This may cause a short inside the battery or in the wiring, resulting in the car not starting. Check the voltage coming into the starter, using a voltmeter. If little or no voltage comes into the starter, inspect the wires and battery for shorts.

Misdiagnosis

It is possible that the starter was not the problem to begin with. If not correctly diagnosed, it is easy to mistake many other problems with starter failure. Some problems that result in similar symptoms as a failed starter include, but are not limited to: failed ignition switch, discharged battery, loose battery cables, security system failure, failed starter solenoid (if separate) or damaged flywheel or flexplate.

Faulty Starter

When the manufacturer builds a new starter or rebuilds an old starter, it tests the starters prior to shipping them to retail stores or end-users. This testing typically catches any failed starters prior to shipment, but human error does allow for a small percentage of failed starters to ship out. After checking the areas described in the three previous sections, remove the starter and take it to a local parts store to have it tested. In the future, have all electro-mechanical components tested before installing them.

Rebuilding a small engine can be more cost-effective than replacing it. To determine if the small engine is suitable for rebuilding, consider how serious the damage is, the amount of wear on the engine and what parts need to be replaced. Youll also need to make sure you have the right tools on hand to do the job.

Basic Tools

The basic tools and equipment needed to rebuild an engine include a set of hand tools, such as screwdrivers and wrenches; a torque wrench; feeler gauges; a ring compressor and a ring expander. You can also simplify the task of rebuilding a small engine by purchasing the parts you will need in an engine kit. A kit comes with bearings, pistons, rings, gear set, timing chain, gaskets, valve seals, camshaft, oil pump, lifters, and other necessary parts.

Crankshaft Bearings

Rebuilding a small engine will most likely require you to install new crankshaft bearings. As you detach the old bearings, determine if they are excessively damaged. If they have scoring, debris, dirt embedded on them, flaking or pitting, then you may need a new set.

Piston Rings

Oil burning and low compression are indications of worn rings. To restore the compression in the engine, this means you must replace the piston rings. Replacement rings are available in different sizes and materials. Most rings are made of cast iron, although there are engines that have steel rings. Rings can come plain-faced, with a molybdenum inlay, chrome-plated, or nitrated. When purchasing new rings, you should try to get them as close to the original rings as you can. Take the original rings with you when you buy new ones to make this task easier.

Camshaft

When replacing the camshaft, you can install either a performance camshaft or a stock replacement. Performance camshafts provide increased duration and lift for additional power. You should follow the recommendations of the camshaft supplier for the proper duration and lift.

The Chevrolet Aveo is a subcompact car manufactured by GM Daewoo since 2002 and marketed under the Chevrolet brand. The most common engine for the Chevrolet Aveo in the United States is a four-cylinder, 1.6-liter engine with a double overhead camshaft. The timing belt on this vehicle synchronizes the rotation of the crankshaft with the rotation of the camshafts. The most important part of the timing belt installation process is keeping the crankshaft and camshafts properly aligned during the procedure.

Instructions

1

Remove the cable from the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench. Disconnect the front cover for the timing belt and remove the mounting bolts for the power steering pump if your vehicle is so equipped.

2

Place a socket wrench on the crankshaft bolt and turn the crankshaft clockwise. Align the timing mark on the crankshaft gear with the timing mark on the rear cover of the timing belt.

3

Loosen the retaining bolts on the water pump slightly. Turn the water pump counterclockwise with Special Tool J-42492-A to relieve the tension on the timing belt. Detach the timing belt from its gears.

4

Disconnect the cover for the engine with a socket wrench and detach the electrical wiring from the spark plugs. Remove the crankcase ventilation tubes and camshaft position sensor from the valve cover. Disconnect the valve cover and its gasket.

5

Hold the intake camshaft in place and remove the mounting bolt for the intake camshaft gear with a socket wrench. Disconnect the camshaft gear from the intake camshaft. Remove the camshaft gear for the exhaust camshaft in the same manner.

6

Install the camshaft gear for the intake camshaft while holding the camshaft in place. Tighten the mounting bolt for the camshaft gear to 49 foot-pounds with a torque wrench. Install the camshaft gear for the exhaust camshaft in the same manner.

7

Replace the valve cover and its gasket with a socket wrench. Attach the camshaft position sensor and crankshaft ventilation tube to the valve cover. Connect the electrical wiring for the spark plugs and attach the engine cover.

8

Turn the crankshaft clockwise to align the timing marks for the crankshaft and camshafts. Place the new timing belt onto the gears.

9

Turn the water pump clockwise with Special Tool J-42492-A to align the adjusting arm of the timing belt tensioner with the notch on the tensioner bracket. Tighten the retaining bolts for the water pump with a socket wrench.

10

Turn the crankshaft two complete turns clockwise with a socket wrench, and align the timing marks for the crankshaft and camshaft again. Repeat Step 9 and tighten the retaining bolts for the water pump to 89 inch-pounds with a torque wrench.

11

Install the mounting bolts for the power steering pump with a socket wrench and replace the front cover for the timing belt. Attach the cable for the negative terminal of the battery.

The Subaru 2.5L engine is made from aluminum alloy. In order for the heads to properly seal and to prevent warping, a special sequence must be followed when installing the head bolts. Not only is the tightening method critical, so is the order. You will need both inch and foot pound torque wrenches as well as a torque angle gauge.

Clean All Surfaces

Clean the cylinder heads and the block mating surfaces thoroughly with lacquer thinner or acetone. Avoid any scraping tools that could mar the surface.

Position New Parts

Lubricate all bolts and washers with engine oil and place the new gasket on the head locating pins. Position the head on the block and finger tighten all bolts.

The Tightening Sequence

The order for tightening is as follows: top center, bottom center, left top, bottom right, bottom left, top right. Follow this sequence for each step.

Tight but not too Tight

Tighten all bolts to 22 foot-pounds. Tighten all bolts to 51 foot-pounds. This first sequence sets the gasket. Loosen all bolts in reverse order. Loosen them again another 160. Tighten bolts one and two to 25 to 36 foot-pounds. Tighten bolts three, four, five and six to 132 inch-pounds.

Final Procedure

Use the torque angle gauge to tighten all bolts another 90. Follow the sequence again and tighten them another 45. Tighten bolts one and two only an additional 45(turbocharged models only).

The F series is a line of pickup trucks that Ford has manufactured since 1948. The 1988 models belong to the eighth generation of this series, which Ford made from 1987 to 1991. The procedure for replacing the water pump is generally the same for all Ford F-150s within this model-year range. The water pump for a Ford F-150 is located on the front of the engine block, and its accessible from the engine compartment.

Instructions

1

Place a container under the radiator and remove the drain cock. Drain the coolant into the container and replace the drain cock. Store the coolant for later use.

2

Disconnect the mounting bolts for the shroud on the cooling fan with a socket wrench, if your F-150 is so equipped. Remove the shroud and disconnect the hoses from the water pump. Remove the accessory drive belt, cooling fan, cooling fan pulley and fan spacer.

3

Remove the pivot bolt for the alternator and the mounting bolt for the alternator adjusting arm with a socket wrench. Disconnect the bracket for the power steering pump if your F-150 has power steering.

4

Remove the bolts that attach the water pump to the cover of the timing chain, using a socket wrench. Disconnect the water pump and discard its gasket.

5

Coat the new gasket with sealer and install the new gasket into its mounting groove on the timing chain cover. Connect the new water pump and tighten its mounting bolts to 18 foot-pounds with a torque wrench.

6

Connect the hoses to the water pump and install the shroud for the cooling fan if your vehicle is so equipped. Attach the cooling fan, the cooling fan pulley and the cooling fan spacer. Install the accessory drive belt. Replace the coolant in the radiator.

The Chevrolet 230 is a six-cylinder inline engine. The engine is quite reliable and was used in many General Motors, Studebaker and Checker vehicles. General Motors produced a large number of inline six-cylinder engines of the same configuration with different bores. High production equates to affordable and readily available parts; new ignition and tune-up parts for the Chevrolet 230 can be found on the shelves of many auto parts stores. Worn contact points and oxidized distributor cap electrodes are a few good reasons for a tune-up.

Instructions

Tune-up

1

Trace the spark plug wire from the first spark plug in the engine to the distributor cap and mark a corresponding line on the distributor housing straight down from the spark plug wire. Be sure the mark is visible on the distributor after the cap is removed.

2

Remove the distributor cap and rotor button from the distributor. The distributor is located on the left side of the engine when viewed from the front and the rotor button is inside the distributor cap.

3




Loosen the nut on the wire post of the distributor, using the small ignition wrenches, and remove the contact points and condenser wire. Remove the screws that attach the contact points to the distributor plate and remove the points.

4

Loosen, but dont remove, the screw that holds the condenser band to the distributor plate and push the condenser out of the band. Dont remove this screw because it is tough to get back in place and if its dropped in the distributor it is difficult to retrieve.

5

Install the new contact points with a gap set at .019-inch with a feeler gauge. Push a new condenser into the condenser band, re-tighten the band screw and attach the wire to the wire stud on the contact points.

6

Place a new rotor button on top of the distributor shaft and install a new distributor cap. Be sure the rotor button seats into the grove on top of the distributor shaft or it may aim at the wrong distributor post and cause harmful back firing.

7

Pull the spark plug wire off the first spark plug on the engine and remove it from the distributor cap. Remove that spark plug and replace it with a new one. Place one end of a new spark plug wire on the new spark plug and the other end in the hole of the newly installed distributor cap that corresponds with the mark made on the distributor.

8

Proceed in a clockwise direction and remove the next spark plug wire from the old distributor cap. Trace that wire to the spark plug, remove the spark plug and replace it with a new one. Install a new spark plug wire on this plug and place the other end of the plug wire in the next hole of the newly installed cap proceeding in a clockwise direction.

Repeat this procedure until all the spark plugs and wires are replaced with new ones.

9

Unscrew the wing nut on top of the air cleaner and remove it. The 1949 Chevy is equipped with an oil bath air cleaner. The oil bath air cleaner has a wire mesh type filter in it and contains oil to trap the dirt.

Dump the oil from air cleaner in a container for proper disposal. Internally clean the air cleaner with a spray brake cleaner. Refill the air cleaner with oil to the level line marked and reinstall it.

Engine Timing

10

Connect the timing light induction clamp to the spark plug wire of the number one spark plug. Connect the lights red clamp to the positive terminal of the battery and the negative clamp to any grounded bolt on the engine.

11

Loosen the distributor hold down screw a half turn. Disconnect the vacuum line from the distributor housing and start the vehicle.

12

Locate the timing marks through the bell-housing access hole, located on the front right side of the bell housing by aiming the timing light pulse at the hole.

13

Set the engine idle at 500 rpm, align the circle ball mark on the flywheel with the indicator mark on the bell-housing under the timing light strobe, by rotating the distributor shaft until the marks align perfectly. Lock down the distributor hold down bolt once the marks are aligned and recheck the timing to be sure it did not change after it was tightened.