Fix It

A vehicles rear springs are part of the suspension system. A cars suspension must be kept in good working order, or the ride will be bumpier and rougher for passengers. The suspension also keeps the undercarriage from coming into contact with the ground; so when a suspension has been compromised there is a greater risk for "bottoming out" and causing damage to the vehicle. Repair or replacement may involve removing and reinstalling the rear springs.

Parts

1978 or 1979 Corvette rear spring replacement parts can be used for the 1979 suspension Multi-leaf composite springs are the most durable and can be found included in a complete spring replacement kit.

Removal

Removing the springs involves jacking the rear end of the car, compressing the spring and attaching a chain to the spring. Then the link bolt, cushions and retainers are removed before lowering the car back onto the jack stands. The spring is then caully removed and replaced.

Installation & Torque Specs

Once the spring has been returned and the center clamp properly positioned, the mounting bolts can be replaced. They must be tightened to between 55 and 75 foot-pounds of torque. The rest of the parts are then replaced in the order in which they were removed. Then the car can be lowered and tested.

The Subaru 2.5L engine is made from aluminum alloy. In order for the heads to properly seal and to prevent warping, a special sequence must be followed when installing the head bolts. Not only is the tightening method critical, so is the order. You will need both inch and foot pound torque wrenches as well as a torque angle gauge.

Clean All Surfaces

Clean the cylinder heads and the block mating surfaces thoroughly with lacquer thinner or acetone. Avoid any scraping tools that could mar the surface.

Position New Parts

Lubricate all bolts and washers with engine oil and place the new gasket on the head locating pins. Position the head on the block and finger tighten all bolts.

The Tightening Sequence

The order for tightening is as follows: top center, bottom center, left top, bottom right, bottom left, top right. Follow this sequence for each step.

Tight but not too Tight

Tighten all bolts to 22 foot-pounds. Tighten all bolts to 51 foot-pounds. This first sequence sets the gasket. Loosen all bolts in reverse order. Loosen them again another 160. Tighten bolts one and two to 25 to 36 foot-pounds. Tighten bolts three, four, five and six to 132 inch-pounds.

Final Procedure

Use the torque angle gauge to tighten all bolts another 90. Follow the sequence again and tighten them another 45. Tighten bolts one and two only an additional 45(turbocharged models only).

Gauges on the instrument panel of your vehicle serve as safety indicators for speed, fuel and engine malfunction. The first padded instrument panel was introduced in 1956 as part of a safety campaign by Robert McNamara. Fast forward to the 2000s and all symbols on the instrument panel flash briefly upon starting, but a light that is constantly on or flashing needs immediate attention.

Electronic Throttle Control Warning Light

According to the Dodge Charger owners manual, the lightning bolt symbol on a Dodge Charger is the indicator for the electronic throttle control. The electronic throttle control regulates engine idle speed, traction control and cruise.

Warning Indicator Solid Light

If the lightning bolt on the instrument panel lights up and stays lit when the engine is running, stop the vehicle as soon as possible. The vehicle will be drivable, but see an authorized dealer without delay.

Warning Indicator Flashing Light

If the electronic throttle control light is on solid, completely stop the vehicle and put it in park. The warning light should turn off by cycling the ignition key. If the light comes on again and flashes when the engine is running, the car should be immediately serviced. The engine could stall or have a very rough idle and may need to be towed.

When bolts are repeatedly removed and tightened, their heads may round out and become stripped. Tightly-secured vehicle oil pan bolt heads may also become stripped if you use the wrong type of wrench to remove them. An effective way to remove a stripped oil pan bolt is by using a small pipe wrench. Pipe wrenches, which feature slightly angled jaws and sharp teeth ideal for grasping, are designed to be used on round objects. Replace the oil pan bolt after the old stripped one has been removed.

Instructions

1

Park the vehicle on a level work surface and apply the emergency brake. Remove the ignition keys to prevent someone from starting the vehicle while youre preforming maintenance under it.

2

Locate the oil pans stripped drainage bolt, which is typically located at the lowest point of the oil pan. Shine a light, such as a flashlight or maintenance lantern, under the vehicle to illuminate the part.

3

Affix a small pipe wrench to the oil pan drainage bolt. Make small adjustments to the pipe wrench as needed so that it fits snugly over the bolt.

4

Grasp the handle and turn the pipe wrench in a counterclockwise direction. Position yourself to pull on the pipe wrench handle rather than push it. Pulling on the wrench will give you more leverage and strength to remove the bolt.

5

Replace the stripped bolt with the correct replacement part.

Bolts are threaded fasteners that are used in conjunction with a nut to secure two or more materials. There are two size classes of nuts and bolts: metric and U.S. standard. Metric hardware is now standard in all countries except the United States. New products made in the U.S. will usually use metric hardware, but some older products, especially cars, will use standard sizes. It is important to know whether the bolt and nut are metric or standard, and to use the proper tool, so as not to damage them.

Instructions

1




Determine the correct wrench sizes needed for the bolt and nut. The head size of the bolt will usually be larger than that of the nut.

2




Place the wrenches or socket on the bolt head and the nut. Hold the bolt head still and turn the nut counter-clockwise.

3




Finish removing the nut by hand once it is loose enough. This will reduce the chance of dropping it as it comes free of the bolt post.

The Kia Rio is a small, inexpensive car that was first introduced to the U.S. marketplace during the 2001 model year. The 2001 and 2002 model years featured a 1.5-liter DOHC engine, which was upgraded to a more powerful 1.6-liter DOHC engine for model years 2003 through 2005. In 2006 the Rio design was given a significant overhaul, which included a change to a more powerful and refined 1.6-liter DOHC CVVT engine. Each of these Rio engines has a slightly different specification for head bolt torque.

2001 and 2002 Models

The head bolts on the 1.5-liter DOHC engine should be tightened according to the following procedure. There are a total of 10 bolts arranged in pairs across the engine. The bolts should first be tightened in sequence to a specification of 36 foot-pounds, starting with the middle two bolts and proceeding in sequence out towards either end of the engine. The bolts should then be loosened again in reverse sequential order, and then tightened again in the sequential order to a specification of 18 foot-pounds. Each bolt should then be marked, and each should be tightened an additional quarter turn, following the same sequence.

2003 Through 2005 Models

The head bolts on the 1.6-liter DOHC engine should be tightened according to the following procedure. There are a total of 10 bolts arranged in pairs across the engine. The bolts should first be tightened in sequence to a specification of 36 foot-pounds, starting with the middle two bolts and proceeding in sequence out towards either end of the engine. The bolts should then be loosened again in reverse sequential order, and then tightened again in the sequential order to a specification of 18 foot-pounds. Each bolt should then be marked, and each should be tightened an additional quarter turn, following the same sequence.

2006 Through 2011 Models

The head bolts on the 1.6-liter DOHC CVVT engine should be tightened according to the following procedure. There are a total of 10 bolts arranged in pairs across the engine. The bolts should first be tightened in sequence to a specification of 21.7 foot-pounds, starting with the middle two bolts and proceeding in sequence out towards either end of the engine. The bolts should then be loosened again in reverse sequential order, and then tightened again in the sequential order to a specification of 21.7 foot-pounds. Each bolt should then be marked, and each should be tightened an additional quarter turn, following the same sequence.