Fix It

Ford introduced the Mustang in 1964 and it has since remained one of the best-selling sports cars on the market. The Mustang entered its eighth generation in 1999 and remained basically the same until Ford rolled out the ninth generation in 2005. The 2000 Mustang came in convertible and coupe trims with either a 3.8-liter, V-6 engine or a 4.6-liter, V-8 engine. The bolt-torque specs for the intake manifold were the same for coupes and convertibles with the V-6 engine, regardless of the transmission.

Torque Basics

In general terms, torque is the amount of force applied to twist or turn an object. It is often given in foot-pounds, with the measurement equaling the pounds of force applied at the end of a lever of a given length. For instance, 100 foot-pounds equals 100 pounds of pressure applied to a foot-long wrench. Larry Carley, the Technical Editor for the website "Underhood Service," recommends that bolts should be cleaned and lightly lubricated with clean motor oil before tightening them because any debris on the bolts or in the bolt fixtures could cause additional friction and thus increase the amount of torque necessary for an ideal fitting. It is extremely difficult to gauge torque by touch. Most mechanics use torque wrenches to ensure that the proper amount of torque is applied, as over-tightening a bolt can be just as bad as not tightening a bolt enough and cause the bolt to snap.

Torque Specs for the Upper Intake Manifold

All bolts in the upper intake manifold of the 2000 V-6 Ford Mustang engine must be tightened in three steps. First, tighten each bolt with 53 inch-pounds of torque. Next, tighten each bolt to 71 inch-pounds of torque. Finally, rotate each bolt an additional 90 degrees.

Torque Specs for the Lower Intake Manifold

The bolts in the lower intake manifold of the 2000 V-6 Ford Mustang engine must be tightened in two steps. First, tighten each bolt to 44 inch-pounds of torque. Second, tighten each bolt to 89 inch-pounds of torque. In addition, "The Motor Repair Manual" for 2000 recommends applying beads of silicon gasket sealant to the gasket of the lower intake manifold.

A vehicles rear springs are part of the suspension system. A cars suspension must be kept in good working order, or the ride will be bumpier and rougher for passengers. The suspension also keeps the undercarriage from coming into contact with the ground; so when a suspension has been compromised there is a greater risk for "bottoming out" and causing damage to the vehicle. Repair or replacement may involve removing and reinstalling the rear springs.

Parts

1978 or 1979 Corvette rear spring replacement parts can be used for the 1979 suspension Multi-leaf composite springs are the most durable and can be found included in a complete spring replacement kit.

Removal

Removing the springs involves jacking the rear end of the car, compressing the spring and attaching a chain to the spring. Then the link bolt, cushions and retainers are removed before lowering the car back onto the jack stands. The spring is then caully removed and replaced.

Installation & Torque Specs

Once the spring has been returned and the center clamp properly positioned, the mounting bolts can be replaced. They must be tightened to between 55 and 75 foot-pounds of torque. The rest of the parts are then replaced in the order in which they were removed. Then the car can be lowered and tested.

When performing repairs on a 2001 Jeep Wrangler, it is imperative that the correct torque is applied when installing certain bolts. The manufacturer calculates torque specs for the Wrangler based on a combination of bolt strength and the component it is holding. Torque values are verified by the use of a torque wrench that alerts the user of the proper torque through an audible signal, typically a clicking noise.

Lug Nuts

Lug nuts are very commonly just tightened until the nut no longer turns. Most inexperienced mechanics believe that the tighter the lug nut the better, but this is far from the truth. Over-tightening a lug nut stretches the threads of the wheel stud and can lead to breakage once it is heated from driving. This breakage can lead to the other wheel studs breaking due to excessive weight; the resulting domino effect can cause the wheel to fall off. The proper lug nut torque on the 2001 Jeep Wrangler is 110 foot-pounds.

Brakes

When performing brake repairs, each bolt has its own, equally important, torque specification. There are two sets of bolts on the brake system that have specific torque values: caliper bolts and brake hose bolts. The brake caliper bolts require a torque of 18 foot-pounds. The brake hose bolts have a rating of 23 foot-pounds.

Cylinder Head

The cylinder head on the Wranglers engine has a seal that must be torqued to the proper specs in order to seal correctly. The 2.5 liter 4-cylinder engine requires head bolts numbers 1 through 6 and 8 through 10 to have a final torque value of 110 foot-pounds, and bolt number 7 to have 100 foot-pounds of torque (see Resources for bolt numbering). The 4.0 liter engine requires bolt numbers 1 through 10 and 12 through 14 to have a final torque value of 110 foot-pounds and bolt number 11 to have a final value of 100 foot-pounds.

Exhaust Manifold

The exhaust manifold uses a compression-style gasket that requires proper torque to maintain a good seal. Bolt number 1 requires 30 foot-pounds and 2 through 7 require 23 foot-pounds (see Resources for bolt numbering). These values apply to both the 2.5 and 4.0 liter engines.

Oil Pan

The oil pan has two different fasteners, each having their own torque values: 1/4-inch bolts and 5/16-inch bolts. The 1/4-inch bolts require 85 inch-pounds of torque and the 5/16-inch bolts require 11 foot-pounds. These values apply for both the 2.5 and 4.0 liter engines.

Timing Chain Cover

The timing chain cover must be removed when performing timing chain maintenance. This cover has a seal and requires proper torque to obtain a good seal and prevent leaks. The bolts around the timing chain cover require 60 inch-pounds of torque on the 1/4-inch bolts and 192 inch-pounds on the 5/16-inch bolts.

There are three basic types of wheel lug nuts: conical; mag or shank style; and ball seat or spherical. When replacing a wheel or lug nuts, it is important that the correct lug nuts are used. The thread diameter, pitch and seat of different types of lug nuts are not the same and they are not interchangeable. Proper installation of a wheel requires that the lug-nut torque be set to the recommended specification for your vehicle to prevent damage.

Torque Specification Conditions

Torque specifications are for clean, dry threads that are free of dirt. Never apply anti-seize lubricants to the threads of a lug nut unless directed to do so. The use of anti-seize lubricants can result in inaccurate torque values that may cause over torquing and damage to the lug nuts or vehicle rotors and brake drums.

Lug Nut Specifications

The thread or shank diameter of a lug nut is the diameter of the stud part of the lug nut measured across the shank from the outer edges of the threads. Thread-pitch can mean the number of threads per inch, or if listed in millimeters, the distance in millimeters between the threads. The seat is the area on the wheel where the lug nut will tighten down.

Typical Torque Values

The proper torque specification for your vehicle can be found in your owners manual or your vehicles shop manual. If you cannot find the proper torque specification, the following values can be used until your vehicles exact torque value can be confirmed. You will need to know the shank diameter of your lug nut to find the typical torque range.

(Shank diameter) = (Torque range in foot-pounds)

12 mm = 70 to 80

14 mm = 85 to 90

7/16 inches = 70 to 80

1/2 inches = 75 to 85

9/16 inches = 135 to 145

5/8 inches = 125 to 135

Over tightening a bolt or a lug nut can cause a real problem. The bolt can get jammed or stripped and you may have to weld it off or install special inserts to make its hole useable again. To avoid this hassle and the potential cost of professional repairs, use a torque wrench, which is also known as a torque stick because of its long, straight shape. The price of these tools varies based on their length and power.

Instructions

1

Consult the manual that came with your vehicle to determine how much torque adjustment is required for a certain task and purchase a torque stick accordingly. Choose a metric or standard wrench based on the requirements of your application.

2

Locate the dial and indicator needle on the torque stick. Adjust the dial to the torque rating required by your application so that you are sure not to over tighten your bolt.

3

Tighten the bolt slowly until you here a cracking sound and feel a slight break in pressure. This indicates that your bolt is set to the correct amount of torque.

4

Double-check that you have set the right amount of torque by applying one more slow pull on the wrench. It should crack right away to indicate that the level is correct. Re-adjust the dial and repeat the process if this does not occur. Note that some torque wrenches are designed to lock at this point and some will continue tightening with pressure. Do not tighten bolts beyond their ratings.

The Kia Rio is a small, inexpensive car that was first introduced to the U.S. marketplace during the 2001 model year. The 2001 and 2002 model years featured a 1.5-liter DOHC engine, which was upgraded to a more powerful 1.6-liter DOHC engine for model years 2003 through 2005. In 2006 the Rio design was given a significant overhaul, which included a change to a more powerful and refined 1.6-liter DOHC CVVT engine. Each of these Rio engines has a slightly different specification for head bolt torque.

2001 and 2002 Models

The head bolts on the 1.5-liter DOHC engine should be tightened according to the following procedure. There are a total of 10 bolts arranged in pairs across the engine. The bolts should first be tightened in sequence to a specification of 36 foot-pounds, starting with the middle two bolts and proceeding in sequence out towards either end of the engine. The bolts should then be loosened again in reverse sequential order, and then tightened again in the sequential order to a specification of 18 foot-pounds. Each bolt should then be marked, and each should be tightened an additional quarter turn, following the same sequence.

2003 Through 2005 Models

The head bolts on the 1.6-liter DOHC engine should be tightened according to the following procedure. There are a total of 10 bolts arranged in pairs across the engine. The bolts should first be tightened in sequence to a specification of 36 foot-pounds, starting with the middle two bolts and proceeding in sequence out towards either end of the engine. The bolts should then be loosened again in reverse sequential order, and then tightened again in the sequential order to a specification of 18 foot-pounds. Each bolt should then be marked, and each should be tightened an additional quarter turn, following the same sequence.

2006 Through 2011 Models

The head bolts on the 1.6-liter DOHC CVVT engine should be tightened according to the following procedure. There are a total of 10 bolts arranged in pairs across the engine. The bolts should first be tightened in sequence to a specification of 21.7 foot-pounds, starting with the middle two bolts and proceeding in sequence out towards either end of the engine. The bolts should then be loosened again in reverse sequential order, and then tightened again in the sequential order to a specification of 21.7 foot-pounds. Each bolt should then be marked, and each should be tightened an additional quarter turn, following the same sequence.