Fix It

Chrome is short for chromium, a naturally occurring element electroplated on the surface of hard metal to give it a fabulous shine. Chrome is a soft metal that resists tarnishing, but over time, exposure to air and the elements will cause it to rust and pit. If not taken care of, pitted chrome will continue to deteriorate. You can polish out minor pitting by hand, but deep pitting requires professional re-plating.

Instructions

1

Wash the part with water and dish detergent. Rinse the part and dry it with a lint-free cloth. Run your fingernail over the pitted section. If the pitting does not catch your fingernail, you can polish the section with steel wool. If the pitting catches your fingernail, it is too deep for polishing and needs professional restoration.

2

Dip a piece of 0000 fine steel wool into water and lightly polish the pitted section. Rub in a circular pattern until the pitting is gone. Wipe the surface with a dampened cloth to remove any steel wool fibers.

3

Dip a piece of 00000 superfine steel wool into water for a final polish of the surface. Rub in a circular pattern. Wipe the surface with a dampened cloth to remove any steel wool fibers, then pat dry.

4

Use a cotton cloth and any kind of chrome polish to remove fine scratches and give the part a lustrous shine. Apply the chrome polish to the surface of the entire part.

5

Spray a light coat of clear lacquer, acrylic or urethane on the part to protect the chrome from oxidation. Follow the directions on the spray can, then apply two to three coats.

The Acura brand is manufactured by Honda and was introduced in 1986. If your Acura is malfunctioning, it needs servicing or repair. Attending to any problems with your Acura will prolong the life of your car.

Instructions

1

Change a dysfunctional or dead battery on your Acura. Turn off the engine. Prop open the hood. Disconnect both battery cables, the negative cable first. Detach the clamp that fastens the battery in place. Remove the old battery. Place it on the ground beside you. Insert the new battery into the battery tray. Refasten the clamp that holds the battery in place. Clean the battery cables. Put some petroleum jelly on the ends of the cable. Reconnect the battery cables, the positive cable first. Tighten the connections using the wrench. Close the hood. Start the engine. Let the engine run for at least ten minutes.

2

Replace any blown fuses on your Acura. Turn off the engine. Prop open the hood. The fuse panel is located directly in front of the steering column. Remove the cover. The blown fuse will be blackened. Remove the fuse with your fingers. Replace the fuse with a new fuse of equal amperage. Pop the new fuse into the old slot. It should go in quite easily. Start the engine to make sure any electrical issues caused by the blown fuse have now been remedied. Replace the cover. Close the hood.

3

Go to a website that provides repair estimates such as Repairpal. Select "Acura" from the "Select Car Make" drop-down menu. Click "Get an Estimate." Enter the year and model of your Acura using the drop boxes. Click "Select Service Type." A list of service and repair issues and tasks will open. Choose the option that best relates to your car. Enter your zip code. Click "Get an Estimate." Review your results. This includes a price estimate and information related to the problem, including misdiagnoses, symptoms and background information. A list of independent auto shops and dealerships in your area will also appear on the page.

4

Contact an auto shop in your area. Give a description of your Acuras status that is as specific as possible based on your research. Make an appointment and bring your car in for repair.

The rear-window defroster on your vehicle uses an electric current to keep the view free of condensation, frost and ice. Scratches in the conductive paint and broken defroster tabs are common reasons for defroster failure. The materials required to fix both problems are readily available and inexpensive. A successful repair of the defroster requires proper preparation.

Instructions

1

Spray window cleaner on the rear window of the vehicle and wipe the window with a rag or newspaper. Inspect the defroster tab. Crack the vial contained in the defroster repair kit. Apply the adhesive in the vial to the window and the back of the defroster tab supplied with the repair kit. Hold the defroster tab against the window for one minute. Slide the connector for the defroster onto the repaired tab.

2

Start the vehicle. Turn on the rear defroster.

3

Place the black and red leads of a voltmeter on each defroster grid. When the voltmeter reads zero, you have found the broken lead.

4

Apply the masking tape supplied with the defroster repair kit above and below the broken line in the defroster grid. Shake the container of conductive paint for 30 seconds.

5

Spray the conductive paint over the gap left between the top and bottom sections of masking tape. Remove the masking tape from the window. Allow the paint to dry for 30 minutes before using the vehicles rear-window defroster.

There are a variety of reasons why a car audio amplifier might malfunction, most of which render the amplifier useless until it has been fixed. Most car amplifiers are fitted with a function that completely shuts the amp down if there isnt a complete circuit connected to the amplifier, but it may not help you fully diagnose the problem. Most problems lie within the wires themselves, so making sure theyre repaired and working properly is key.

Instructions

1

Find the red wire on the left side of the amplifier. Connect one end of the voltmeter to this wire and the other end to a piece of exposed metal. This should make a complete circuit. If the amplifier does not power on following this, then the problem may be with the amplifiers wiring.

2

Find the ground wire at the back of the amplifier. The wire is black and should be attached to a piece of exposed metal. Apply a piece of electrical tape to the ground wire and attach it firmly to a piece of exposed metal if not already connected. This creates a full circuit.

3

Remove the white fuse from the fuse terminal located on the left of most amplifiers and replace it with a new one. A blown fuse will generate no power for the amplifier, rendering it useless.

4

Stick pieces of electrical tape to each wire that is coming out and into the back of the amplifier. Each wire is partially exposed at one section to allow a connection to the fuse terminal. However, this can cause short circuits, and the connection between these wires and the fuse terminal isnt vital as it is powered by the main wire running on the side of the amplifier.

Paintless dent repair (PDR) is the removal of dings and dents from a motor vehicle body through different techniques. The techniques used in paintless dent repair do not require painting after the dent is corrected. If the paint was damaged at the time the dent occurred, paintless dent repair is not possible. The dent can still be corrected, but a paint job will be required to finish the repair. This is known as "push to paint". Paintless dent repair is often used to correct dents caused by minor damages such as hail damage and door dings.

Instructions

1

Remove a small dent with a the use of glue and a dent pulling tab. Several companies sell paintless dent repair kits which include a hot glue gun with glue sticks and a dent pulling tab with accessories. Buy a kit online or through your local auto supply store. Glue a dent pulling tab to the center crease of the dent. Suction the bridge to the car over the dent so that that the dent pulling tab connects through the center of the bridge. Screw the turning knob onto the other end of the pulling tab. Continue twisting the knob, slowly, until the dent pops out. Remove any glue that sticks to the car with rubbing alcohol.

2

Wrap a small brick of dry ice in a shop towel and gently apply it to hail damage. Slowly rub over and around the dent for several minutes until the dent pops out. This process can take awhile and is not recommended for dents larger then the size of a quarter. Wear protective gloves while handling the dry ice as it can burn your skin. Leave the vehicle in the shade or a cooled garage for at least half the day once you have removed the dent. Taking the car out into the sun or heat too quickly can cause the dent to return.

3

Contact a local PDR company to have your dent removed if you have a medium to large dent. For dents this size, you will only have one chance to get it right and will need a professional to ensure it is done right.

4

Attend a short course on professional paintless dent repair. Institutes such as Superior Auto Institute and M & M Training offer courses which can be completed in a few weeks. You will get plenty of hands on experience as well as access to some of the best dent removal tools available. The information offered through these courses will give you an understanding of the different types of dents as well as techniques to remove them.

5

Obtain a professional dent removal kit and begin practicing. Kits can be bought through online retailers and training facilities. Make sure the kit comes with a door set, a pry set and wire set. You will also need a ball peen hammer and a rubber tipped crowning tool, a window wedge and a tool leverage strap.

6

Buy a fluorescent light that will project shadows onto the surface of a car. The lines and shadows created by the light can be used to gain better insight into the contour of the dent and whether there are any points that are crowning or pressurized. This tool is imperative in successfully and professionally completing a PDR.

7

Ask a local salvage yard if you can practice removing dents on their cars or find yourself a practice car and practice if you plan to use your knowledge of PDR for business.

If you have a motorcycle with a dented exhaust pipe, you can easily repair it yourself without spending a great deal of money. With just a few tools and some time, youre motorcycle exhaust will be fixed in no time. In most cases, you will be able to restore the exhaust shape by as much as 95 percent, which isnt perfect, but is quite an improvement.

Instructions

1

Run water through the entire exhaust system two or three times in order to ensure that its clear of fresh gas deposits (if the exhaust has excessive carbon deposits, remove all previous deposits before pressurization). Seal both ends of the exhaust and tighten the expansion block plugs (the expansion block plugs should be located far enough in to attach vice grips on each end of the exhaust). Attach the vice grips (one small one on each end).

2

Hook the exhaust pipe up to an air compressor before pressurizing the system. Pressurize the system (between 80 and 120 PSI). Heat each dented area with the map gas system to a red glow slowly (the dents may start to come out), keeping the heated area pointed away from you. Tap out the dents (moving in circles around dented area) with your hammer.

3

If the seams split due to excessive heat, use the welder to seam the splits back together. If you are not well-versed in the use of a welder, you may have to take the exhaust to someone who can do this portion for you. Turn on the drill with the wire wheel attachment. Apply the wheel with a great deal of pressure to any areas that are discolored until the discoloration is reduced or completely removed. Polish the exhaust using a clean towel to remove any final discoloration.

You can easily damage auto wheels through accidents, curbing or general wear and tear. A scuffed rim or a combination of scratches can make a wheel look unsightly, but it is entirely possible to restore damage inexpensively.

Preparation

It is important to have a clean working surface, so wash the wheels thoroughly before beginning to work. Sand wheels with P320 grit paper to provide an effective key, and you must add spot putty to minor dents and imperfections. You can rub spot putty to the surface level after it dries.

Priming

Mask the wheel using masking tape and paper. Use two full coats of automotive primer to cover the entire wheel and leave it to dry in accordance with the manufacturers instructions. After the primer has dried, rub it down lightly with a soft sanding pad to provide a key for the paint.

Painting

You must apply paint using several light coats. Wheel silver has a tendency to sag or run if you apply it in high volume. Check the wheel during the painting process to ensure all hidden areas receive a sufficient coating of color. Leave the wheel to dry completely before unmasking.

Exhaust problems are reasonably easy to pinpoint, but if not repaired, they can cause noise pollution or even pose a danger to the people in your car. Luckily, with the many good exhaust repair products on todays market, exhaust repairs are easily fixed.

Exhaust Repair Kits

A good exhaust repair kit should include steel plates, as well as steel seamless tubing fitted for a quick connection to the exhaust and the fittings. Some repair kits come with a high-temperature steel cold weld, resistant to corrosive exhaust heat and gases. An exhaust kit should also include a reinforced screen or bandage for extra support and easy to use and understand instructions.

Exhaust Bandages

An exhaust bandage fixes exhaust rips and tears and lasts for quite a while or even permanently. The smaller the leak or crack, the better a bandage fix will work. Exhaust bandages are made of epoxy-impregnated fiberglass or of ractory strips and are resistant to the high temperature and the corrosive fumes of the exhaust. An exhaust bandage is molded into the small holes or cracks of the exhaust. Then it chemically welds to the exhaust, muffler or tail pipe and your exhaust is repaired.

Exhaust System Sealers

An exhaust system sealer acts as a chemical weld or a ceramic seal and is meant for fixing small holes and cracks. It can be water-based and should be asbestos free. It sometimes contains fiberglass fibers to hold the sealer in place while it cures. Like any exhaust repair product, it should withstand high temperatures. Exhaust sealers should also be resistant to chemicals, solvents, aging and oxidizing.

Exhaust System Repair Tape

Exhaust system repair tape is made from aluminum and a high-temperature bonding agent. It stops the noise a damaged exhaust makes and will seal out dangerous fumes. It works well for smaller exhaust problems, but seldom is a permanent solution for larger holes or cracks.

Exhaust Repair Tools

For a do-it-yourself job, the car should be on wheel ramps or an axle stand. Eye protection is also needed since rust flakes or metal shavings can get into your eyes. Metal snips or cutters and muffler clamps are needed. If jubilee clips are used to clamp the new part onto the exhaust, a screwdriver to fit the clips is necessary. A pair of pliers to pry off the bad exhaust parts is also useful. A pipe expander or a crimper to fit the new part onto the exhaust is also needed.

Over a period of time, car panels will start to rust. Although rust is generally easy to treat, it can damage a cars look and sale value if not treated properly and quickly. It is best to treat the problem as soon as you notice the rust; failure to deal with it quickly will see the problem increase and become a lot harder to deal with.

Instructions

1

Locate the area on the car panel affected with rust. Use the sandpaper and white spirit to remove the rust by rubbing it. White spirit is a cleaning liquid solvent primarily used to remove stains, rust and dirt from objects such as cars and brick.

2

Use the wire brush to scrape away any rust still on the panel.

3

Put some rust solvent on another piece of sandpaper and gently wipe the area where the rust was. This will get rid of any micro bits of rust left.

4

Put tape around the area where the rust was and then spread an even amount of epoxy body filler over the area. Allow it to dry for a few hours. The filler will cover any scratches or small holes that the rust caused and the tape will protect your car from paint. Sand to smooth surface.

5

Cover the area of the panel with primer. When dry, paint the area of the car panel which was affected with a paint matching the car, using the tape as a boundary. Allow the first coat to dry and then apply a second.

6

After the second coat is dry, polish and wax the area to finish off your repaired car panel.

Having a faulty license plate light can cause you a lot of problems. A burnt out license plate light can result in fines and possibly having to make a court appearance. There are two main causes for a non working light. They are a bulb that is blown or a worn light socket. It pays to know how to fix this problem quickly.

Instructions

Replacing a Blown Bulb

1

Remove the cover from the bulb. This will differ from vehicle to vehicle but it is normally a tab that slides out.

2

Remove the bulb from the socket.

3

Check that the old bulb matches the connections on the new bulb.

4

Click the new bulb into place in the socket.

5

Replace the cover until you hear a "click."

6

Turn on the ignition and test the light.

Replacing a Socket

7

Remove the cover from the bulb. This will differ from vehicle to vehicle but it is normally a tab that slides out.

8

Remove the bulb from the socket.

9

Remove the actual socket from the vehicle. This will be held in place by one or two screws.

10

Remove the connected wires from the back of the socket either by untwisting the connectors, or cutting them apart. Most will be attached using connectors, but some will be hard wired and need cutting with a wire cutter.

11

Attach the new socket to the connections. If the vehicle was hard wired then you will need to color match the wires and splice and solder to the back of the new socket.

12

Reattach the socket to the vehicle using the screws.

13

Insert a working bulb into the socket.

14

Replace the cover.

15

Start ignition and test light.

A vehicle exhaust system carries toxic fumes generated by the engine away from the passenger compartment. When an exhaust system leaks, exhaust fumes can flood into the passenger compartment, along high levels of carbon monoxide. Carbon monoxide cause headaches and can even cause passengers in the vehicle to become unconscious and eventually die.

Instructions

1

Raise the vehicle with a floor jack positioned at a secure point recommended by the vehicle owners manual. Stabilize the vehicle by placing a jack stand under each side of the vehicle frame. Lower the floor jack.

2

Remove loose dirt and debris from the area around the exhaust hole with a clean rag.

3

Scuff the area around the hole with 600-grit sandpaper.

4

Spray engine degreaser on the area surrounding the hole. Allow the cleaner to sit on the exhaust for 10 to 15 minutes. Wipe the engine degreaser from the exhaust with a clean rag.

5

Wrap the exhaust pipe starting two inches to one side of the hole. Continue wrapping until you overlap and past the hole by two inches.

6

Cut the exhaust repair tape with a utility knife.

7

Run a plastic squeegee over the applied exhaust repair tape to remove air bubbles and secure the tape to the exhaust.

8

Raise the vehicle with the floor jack. Remove the floor jacks. Lower the floor jack.

Bug shields protect the leading edge of your vehicles hood from bugs and stone chips. When a large object or blunt force cracks the plastic bug shield, your hood protection is lost. Regular glues will not bond to plastics. Fixing plastic cracks requires an adhesive designed for each specific type of plastic. Manufacturers use either ABS plastic to make opaque bug shields or Lexan plastic for clear or tinted bug shields.

Instructions

1

Spray window cleaner on the cracked area of the bug shield. Wipe the cleaner from the crack with a clean rag.

2

Stick the end of a syringe in an open container of plastic adhesive. Pull the plunger located at the back of the syringe toward you to fill it with adhesive.

3

Align the tip of the syringe with the center of the bug shield crack. Pull the syringe along the crack as you push in on the plunger. Make sure you fill the length of the crack with adhesive.

4

Set a spring clamp across both sides of the crack. Inspect the crack to ensure that both sides of the crack are at the same height. Leave the clamp on the crack for 24 hours.

5

Remove the spring clamp.

6

Sand any excess cured adhesive from the crack with 600-grit sandpaper. Avoid sanding the surface of the bug shield to reduce scuffing.

Seat belts are the bedrock of automotive passenger safety, and when they break they must be attended to quickly. But the forces at play in a car crash are such that merely repairing a seat belt is a bad idea. A properly functioning seat belt could save a life, and rather than being repaired, seat belts must be replaced altogether to avoid the malfunctioning of any individual part. Seat belt replacement can be done at home with the right tools and technique.

Instructions

1

Remove the car seat. Remove the bolts at the base of the car seat and remove the seat from the vehicle. This will allow easier access to the seat belt.

2

Remove the interior panels that cover the seat belt and retractor.

3

Pull back the bolt cover of the bolt attaching the buckle portion of the seat belt to the floor of the vehicle.

4

Remove the bolt attaching the buckle portion of the seat belt to the floor of the vehicle with a socket driver.

5

Remove the bolt attaching the retractor with a socket driver.

6

Use a socket driver to remove the bolt that holds the bracket the seat belt is threaded through.

7

Remove the retractor and belt bracket.

8

Pull back the cover over the bolt attaching the belt portion of the seat belt.

9

Remove the bolt attaching the belt portion of the seat belt to the floor of the vehicle.

10

Discard the broken seat belt.

11

Bolt the new retractor in place with a socket driver.

12

Use a socket driver to bolt in the new bracket the seat belt is threaded through.

13

Bolt the belt side of the seat belt to the floor of the vehicle with a socket driver.

14

Slide the bolt cover over the bolt that attaches the belt side of the seat belt to the floor of the vehicle.

15

Bolt the buckle portion of the seat belt to the bottom of the vehicle with a socket driver.

16

Slide the bolt cover over the bolt that attaches the buckle portion of the seat belt to the floor of the vehicle.

17

Replace all interior panels that cover the seat belt and retractor.

18

Bolt the car seat back onto the floor of the vehicle with a socket driver.

The handles on the Toyota Sienna van break frequently. The handle is made out of pot metal that is not as strong as steel or other metals. If you forget to unlock your vehicle or the door is frozen in the winter time and you pull on the door handle, it will break. Sometimes the handle will break from normal wear or for no reason at all. To replace the door handle on a Toyota Sienna Van is not so hard to do, just time consuming.

Instructions

1




Remove the door panels. Pull up the armrest, that will uncover two large Phillips screws and take them out. Pull off the circular cover near the mirror. Lift up the window control panel near the front, and take off the connector and panel. Remove the lower panel and disconnect the light when you get the panel off.

2




Remove the screw from the inner handle bezel. It will not come off yet. To remove the lock handle bezel, pry out the top and bottom of the handle. To remove the bezel, push it to the inside toward the door handle and push off. Remove the top part of the door panel .

3




Remove the plastic wind cover from the door. Take the black plastic cover off the door jamb. This will reveal a 10 mm bolt. Remove it, but dont drop it inside the hole in the door. Pull back the yellow clip that releases the lock opening and the rod to the handle. Inside the large hole you will see two10 mm bolts, a right and left. Remove the right 10 mm bolt. The left handle bolt holds the lock cylinder in place, it can be removed once the handle is removed. Move the handle to the left and pull it out. Remove the lock cylinder.

4




Place the lock cylinder in the new handle and install the 10 mm bolt. Insert your new handle in the door and attach the two10 mm bolts and tighten. Replace the lock and handle release rod and secure the yellow clip. Check the door to see if it opens and closes. Replace the black plastic cover in the door jamb.

5




Replace the plastic wind cover to the inside of the door. Plug in the light and replace both door bottom and top panels, being sure that you line up the plastic clips to the matching holes in the door. Take the heel of your hand push all clips all the way in.

6

Replace all the Phillips screws in the door panel including the two under the armrest. Replace the armrest and the inside handle cover and install the screws.

All cars are fitted with the standard shoulder belt. This belt goes over the shoulder and lap, offering maximum protection for the passenger. Seat belts do become subject to casual wear and tear; sometimes they can stop working altogether, making it dangerous for the driver and passengers. Fixing a problem with a seat belt buckle involves dismantling the seat belt.

Instructions

1

Fully extend the whole of the seat belt to check for kinks.

2

Remove the bolt underneath the seat belt buckle. Hold the retractor straight and thread the seatbelt out. Remove the seat in the car if you need to gain a closer inspection of the belt.

3

Use the screwdriver to unscrew the current buckle from the car.

4

Screw in the new buckle. Then thread the seat belt through the new buckle.

5

Reinstall the small bar underneath the buckle to hold it in place.

6

Pull the seat belt out to make sure its working properly.

7

Reinstall the seat if necessary.

Rust can appear on all areas of a car or truck. The 1957 Chevrolet truck is a classic car that can be very prone to rust because of its age. The rear of a truck is exposed to many dents, bumps and scratches. This leads to the rust-proof coating on the truck to wear off more easily, leaving the rear more susceptible to rusting. Rust is an electrochemical process in which the molecules of water and metal combine to create rust. Fixing rust on the rear of a Chevy truck prevents the rust from spreading and causing more serious damage like rust-holes, which can interfere with the operation of the truck.

Instructions

1

Scrub off the rust on the rear of the car with a scrubbing pad or wire brush. This gets rid of any surface rust.

2

Put on rubber gloves to protect hands when using rust removers. Rust removers use very strong acids to dissolve rust. These acids include oxalic acid and phosphoric acid.

3

Pour rust remover onto a scrubbing pad. Scrub the remover into the rust and let stand for about 5 minutes or for the length of time suggested on the label.

4

Wipe away the rust remover with a rag or cloth.

5

Apply a rust-proof primer with a paintbrush. This stops any further rusting on the rear of the truck.

6

Apply touch-up paint to necessary areas of the rear of the truck.

Auto body technicians can repair dents on your car but the costs may be high. This is especially true if your cars value is low and buying materials at a store so you can do the work yourself would be cheaper than paying a professional. The do-it-yourself strategies and secrets in the steps below can help you fix the dents yourself. Most of the tips involve small investments at an auto parts store.

Simple Steps

If the dent is not bad, minor applications may help remove it. You can apply your hand above or below the dent, depending on the dents location, to see whether it can be pushed back to its normal position. You can press wood blocks against the sides side of the dent to add more force. Use a suction cup in an attempt to pull out the dent.

Sanding and Filling

One approach to dent repair is to sand the paint off the dent. Once the dent is exposed, apply car body filler. Spread the filler evenly and let it dry. Once the filler is dry, sand it until its smooth and repaint the area with the color of your car. This should help make the car look as good as new.

I

A low but loud roaring noise or a high-pitched hissing sound while driving can be evidence of an exhaust problem. Leaks in the exhaust pipe/system can be problematic, beyond just the annoying noise, as exhaust leaks also produce a leak of carbon monoxide into the car via the air vents, according to AA1Car.

Instructions

1

Cool the engine completely and jack up the vehicle for repair.

2

Locate the hole and damaged area of the exhaust pipe. Saw off a piece of the pipe with a hacksaw and then level both pieces. There is a possibility that removal of the rubber grommets or support wires, which hold both the muffler and/or exhaust pipe in place, may be necessary.

3

Make and insert the inner exhaust sleeve: using the tin snips, cut the sheet of aluminum in half. Fold one of the halves in half, creating a double layer of aluminum sheet metal. Wrap the folded half around your broomstick handle, rolling the sheet metal into a sleeve. Roll the sleeve slightly smaller than your exhaust pipe, but not too small, as this will cause it to shift and move around. After creating the inner sleeve, insert it into both parts of the sawed exhaust pipe.

4

Make and insert the outer exhaust sleeve. With the remaining half of aluminum sheet, fold it in half. Again, use the broomstick handle to roll the piece of sheet metal into a sleeve. This sleeve should be slightly larger than your vehicles tailpipe. Attach the outer sleeve to the exhaust pipe. The sleeve must overlap both parts of the exhaust that you have sawed and fitted. With the U-bolts, secure the outer sleeve to the exhaust pipe, leaving approximately one-half to one inch of space outside of the U-bolts and enabling you to wrap the pipe with muffler tape.