Fix It

If you have a motorcycle with a dented exhaust pipe, you can easily repair it yourself without spending a great deal of money. With just a few tools and some time, youre motorcycle exhaust will be fixed in no time. In most cases, you will be able to restore the exhaust shape by as much as 95 percent, which isnt perfect, but is quite an improvement.

Instructions

1

Run water through the entire exhaust system two or three times in order to ensure that its clear of fresh gas deposits (if the exhaust has excessive carbon deposits, remove all previous deposits before pressurization). Seal both ends of the exhaust and tighten the expansion block plugs (the expansion block plugs should be located far enough in to attach vice grips on each end of the exhaust). Attach the vice grips (one small one on each end).

2

Hook the exhaust pipe up to an air compressor before pressurizing the system. Pressurize the system (between 80 and 120 PSI). Heat each dented area with the map gas system to a red glow slowly (the dents may start to come out), keeping the heated area pointed away from you. Tap out the dents (moving in circles around dented area) with your hammer.

3

If the seams split due to excessive heat, use the welder to seam the splits back together. If you are not well-versed in the use of a welder, you may have to take the exhaust to someone who can do this portion for you. Turn on the drill with the wire wheel attachment. Apply the wheel with a great deal of pressure to any areas that are discolored until the discoloration is reduced or completely removed. Polish the exhaust using a clean towel to remove any final discoloration.

A motorcycle chock, or stand, is critical for storing, transporting, making repairs, and performing maintenance on your motorbike. There are many different styles available and all have their pros and cons. Some are easier to use, more durable, and more versatile than others. There are several options when it comes to finding a wheel chock for your motorcycle.

Front Wheel Chock

There are many styles of front wheel chocks available. Having to maneuver the bikes front tire into the secure holding device is something they all have in common. Their differences are in construction. You can secure some to any surface, such as a trailer or garage floor for security. Others are portable. It is possible to adjust some manually for wheel width, and for others the chock adjusts automatically. With some, you just push the bike into the frame, and it sits flat in the frame. But with others, the front wheel sits in a cradle device, which means you must push a little harder to get the tire in. See the resources for some examples and reviews of front wheel chocks.

Rear Wheel Chock

Rear wheel chocks are a design made to push the rear of the bike up and hold it under the swingarm. The ideal rear wheel chock stand should work easily in one motion. When you push the stand, it should easily lift the bike onto the stand. Rear wheel chocks help to secure the bike for routine repairs, maintenance, cleaning or storage. There are many brands available, with the differences being primarily in the construction and attention to details (see resources).

Rear Wheel Rollers

Rear-wheel chock stands provide support via a stand onto which you roll the bike. Their design has an angle stand that the bike rolls up onto, and an inverted middle with rollers that keep the wheel turning until you stop it. Then, the bike sits comfortably in the stand. These stands (see resources) offer the same benefits as the other two types of chocks, primarily the ability to either park the bike or perform maintenance.

Some manufacturers insist that shock absorbers should not be disassembled but replaced as whole parts. Other vendors understand that the springs can be taken off. Disassembling shocks beyond that may void your warranty and cause you injury. The procedures and techniques are similar for all motorcycle shocks for all bikes including dirt bikes, sport bikes, touring models and cruisers. In a nutshell, you compress the shock absorber in a mechanical or hydraulic press and free the spring. In the United States, Progressive Suspension makes a mechanical press specifically to accomplish this job.

Instructions

1

Clean the shock absorber to be disassembled with solvent and rags.

2

Place the bottom of the shock absorber on a wooden block in the hydraulic or mechanical press. Ensure the shock is vertical and immobilize the shock.

3

Lower the ram of the mechanical or hydraulic press until it touches the top, or long eye, of the shock absorber. Slowly compress the top of the shock absorber and the shock spring until the shock absorber retainer ring and keeper plate separate.

4

Remove the retaining ring with a mechanics awl. Remove the pressure on the top of the shock and remove the shock from the press.

5

Separate the spring plate from the damper tube.

6

Line the jaws of a bench vise with rags. Clamp the long eye in the vise so the shock is upside down.

7

Loosen the long eye nut with an open-end wrench. Remove the long eye nut and the spring plate.

Progressive Suspension shock absorbers are adjustable to preset loads and they can also be adjusted to achieve clearances on modified motorcycles that might not be allowed by original equipment manufacturers shocks. Progressive Suspension advises customers to check clearances around the shocks before installing them on any motorcycle. When necessary, the top cover can be removed. Progressive Suspension shocks can be completely disassembled with a spring compressor but the manufacturer does "not recommend" the use of lowering blocks and warns that use of a lowering kit may damage the shock and void the warranty.

Instructions

1

Remove the domed caps on the shocks by pushing the cap from the back, with your fingers, out of the eyelet cover. Reinstall the domed caps, when clearances allow after installing the shocks, by pushing them back into the eyelet covers with your fingers.

2

Rotate the offset lower shock eye in or out with your hands to gain clearance advantages.

3

Remove the upper cover on the Progressive shock by loosening the 2 retaining set screws with a .050" hex key. Further disassembly requires special tools.

4

Adjust the 5-position preload adjuster with a spanner wrench. Engage the wrench tabs into the two opposing holes in the lower chrome cover and squeeze.

5

Rotate the lower chrome cover left to increase spring preload and stiffen the shocks. Turn the wrench and the chrome cover right to decrease spring preload.

Truing stands are used to check the wobble and run-out of motorcycle wheels. A recently constructed or suspect wheel is rotated on an axle on a stand and the side to side and up and down movement of the rim is measured with a dial indicator or other device. Well-manufactured truing stands cost as little as $150, and if you intend to build multiple wheels they are worth the investment. Some skilled wheel builders can make do with a pair of plastic milk crates and a wire clothes hanger. For a similar DIY design you can use a swap meet swing arm and other cheap, used motorcycle parts and it should cost about a third as much as a manufactured truing stand.

Instructions

1

Bolt the front of a motorcycle swing arm vertically in a bench vise. Level the top of the swing arm with a bubble level.

2

Insert the hex end of a used, unbent motorcycle axle through, in order, a two inch washer, the swing arm axle hole, a bearing spacer, a sealed wheel bearing assembly, the wheel to be trued, a second sealed wheel bearing assembly, a second bearing spacer, the other side of the swing arm and a second 2 inch washer.

3

Tighten the rear axle nut to the axle with a box wrench.

4

Attach a magnetic dial indicator to the vise to check for run-out error. Attach the magnetic dial indicator to the swing arm to check for wobble.

Riders of modern motorcycles are pretty spoiled. Modern bikes, with their advanced electronic ignitions and fuel injection, roar to life with the push of a button. Most motorcycles built before 1982 came with a kick starter to augment an electric starter. Some didnt have an electric starter at all. They require a bit more energy before they can hit the road.

Instructions

1

Turn on the motorcycles ignition switch with the key. Flip the kill switch on the right handlebar to the on position.

2

Turn the fuel valve under the left side of the gas tank to the on position. Open the carburetors choke with the choke lever on the side of the carburetor.

3

Flip out the kick start lever and press down on it gently until it becomes slightly harder to push.

4

Kick down hard on the lever, following through to the bottom of the levers stroke, to start the motor. Repeat as needed until the motor starts.

5

Allow the motor to warm up for three to five minutes. Close the choke