Fix It

The Chrysler Concorde was a full-size, four-door sedan with front-wheel drive manufactured from 1993 to 2004. The most common engine in the 1993 model was a six-cylinder 3.3-liter engine with fuel injection. The fuel injectors send fuel to the engine and are part of the fuel rail assembly. The majority of the fuel injector replacement procedure for a 1993 Concorde deals with removing and installing the fuel rail assembly from the engine.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the negative battery cable with a socket wrench to prevent the engine from starting during the procedure. Loosen the cap on the fuel tank to relieve the pressure in the fuel tank. Remove the cap for the fuel pressure test port on the fuel rail.

2

Place the open end of the hose on tool C-4799-1 into a container approved for gasoline. Connect tool C-4799-1 to the fuel pressure test port and open the valve on the tool. Allow the fuel to drain into the container to relieve the pressure in the fuel system. Disconnect tool C-4799-1 from the fuel pressure test port and replace the cap on the fuel pressure test port.

3

Detach the air plenum from the throttle body and the air cleaner. Hold the throttle in the open position, and remove the linkages for the cruise control and throttle body from the throttle shaft.

4

Detach the electrical connectors from the exhaust gas recirculation valve and manifold absolute pressure sensor. Disconnect the vacuum hoses from the positive crankcase ventilation valve and the fuel pressure regulator. Remove the brake booster hose and throttle body purge hose from the intake manifold.

5

Detach the electrical connectors from the throttle position sensor and the idle air control motor. Disconnect the mounting screws for the exhaust gas recirculation tube with a socket wrench and remove the tube from the upper intake manifold. Disconnect the mounting bolts for the intake manifold plenum and remove the plenum from the engine.

6

Detach the fuel line from the fuel rail by pushing the quick-disconnect fitting on the fuel line with Special Quick-Connect Fitting Tool 6751. Wrap shop towels around the fuel line and disconnect the fuel line from the fuel rail. Disconnect the clamp on the fuel line with a socket wrench and remove the fuel line from its bracket.

7

Turn the fuel injectors on the fuel rail towards the center of the engine, and detach the electrical connectors from the fuel injectors. Disconnect the mounting bolts for the fuel rail and lift the fuel rail directly up from the engine.

8

Remove the retainer clip for the fuel injector and pull the injector out of the fuel rail. Install new O-rings to the new fuel injector and apply a light coat of engine oil to the upper O-ring. Install the fuel injector onto the fuel rail and attach its retainer clip. Apply a light coat of engine oil to the nozzle end of the fuel injector.

9

Complete the installation of the fuel injectors by performing steps two through six in reverse sequence. Tighten the mounting bolts for the fuel rail to 16 ft. lbs. with a torque wrench. Torque the mounting bolts for the intake manifold plenum to 21 ft. lbs. Connect the negative battery cable with a socket wrench.

There may be several reasons why oil is blowing out of your oil dipstick tube. There can be engine malfunctions or user mistakes. You may want to remove some of the oil because of overfill that occurred during an oil change. Whether your engine is blowing out oil by itself or if you are trying to remove some of the excess fluid to avoid this blowout, there is an explanation for these situations and a way to rectify the problem.

Instructions

Accidental Blowout

1

Overfill your engine with oil and leave it that way if you want an accidental blowout. When you are changing your oil or adding oil because of low fluid levels, you may accidentally put in more than the optimal level. Always add oil in small quantities until the dipstick reads the appropriate level.

2

Forgetting to put the dipstick back into the tube is a sure way to blow oil out of the dipstick tube when the engine is running and there is pressure. Just remember to put the dipstick in all the way after you are done checking the oil to avoid oil blowout.

3

Clog your positive crankcase ventilation valve. Check to see if it is clogged by looking at the valve cover on the drivers side of the vehicle. Remove the valve and shake it to see if it rattles to indicate it is fine. While the engine is running, place your finger over the end of it to test for suction; suction means the PCV valve is not the problem for oil blowout.

Removing Oil from Dipstick Tube

4

Locate the drain plug. Usually, it is located on or near the oil pan. Position the oil drip pan below the drain plug.

5

Turn the plug counterclockwise until the oil starts to drain out. Let only a little bit out, then tighten the plug again in a clockwise direction.

6

Check the oil level on the dipstick. Release more oil if there is still too much oil and it is above the indicator line. This is the only safe way to remove excess oil from the dipstick. You do not necessarily want the oil blowing everywhere as it may get messy, smelly and smoky when the engine warms up.

Like most parts on your 96 Mercury Mystique, the thermostat will eventually need to be replaced. Because of its location, and because it has coolant or water constantly running through it, the thermostat will rust or break down over time. Fortunately, the part was designed to be disposable. Once it has worn out, you can simply discard it and install a new one in its place.

Instructions

1

Use your ratchet and socket set to disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery.

2

Follow the large radiator hose from the upper-right portion of your radiator to where it connects into the engine block. This is the water outlet. Your thermostat is located beneath the outlet.

3

Loosen the hose clamp on the small hose at the top of the water outlet, using your flat-head screwdriver. Pull the hose back and shove it out of the way to the side.

4

Place your small bucket under the large coolant hose. This is to catch any coolant that leaks out when you remove the hose.

5

Loosen and remove the hose clamp from the large hose, then pull the hose away from the water outlet. Some coolant will leak out at this point, so be prepared.

6

Use your ratchet and socket set to loosen and remove the three retaining bolts securing the water outlet to the engine block, then pull the outlet off of the engine to reveal the thermostat.

7

Remove the thermostat from the thermostat housing and discard.

8

Use your razor blade and scouring pad to clean off the thermostat housing and the bottom of the water outlet. The old thermostat gasket will likely have partially disintegrated and will need to be scoured off.

9

Apply a layer of gasket sealant to the newly-cleaned area around the thermostat housing, then place the new gasket into the sealant.

10

Place the new thermostat into the thermostat housing in the exact same position as the old one.

11

Replace the water outlet and secure it down with the three retaining bolts.

12

Replace the hoses and tighten down the hose clamps. Pour any coolant you collected back into the radiator and re-connect the battery cable.

Replacing a tail light lens on your Oldsmobile Ciera requires removing the entire tail light assembly. The lens is molded to the rest of the assembly and cannot be removed separately. The assembly comes off the car very quickly and replacement light assemblies are readily available from the dealer or through some auto parts retailers. If you are on a budget, a more affordable option is to source this part through a salvage yard.

Instructions

1

Open the trunk of your Oldsmobile and locate the two retaining screws on the inboard edge of the tail light assembly. Remove both screws using a Phillips screwdriver and set them aside for later reuse.

2

Pull the tail light assembly away from the body and locate the bulb sockets on the rear of the assembly. Rotate the bulb socket counterclockwise to unlock it from the assembly, then pull the socket and bulb out of the assembly.

3

Install the bulb sockets into the rear of the new taillight assembly; rotate them clockwise to lock them in place. Now is a good time to replace any bulbs in the rear that may not be working.

4

Position the new tail light assembly on the rear of the car and install the two retaining screws through the tail light, threading them into the body. Tighten the screws with a Phillips screwdriver until they are snug, but do not over-tighten them or you will crack the plastic.

5

Repeat the process for the opposite side assembly, if needed. Close the trunk of the car.

You can reset the code on your 92 Cadillac from your home garage, saving yourself time and money. The computer in your Cadillac generates and stores trouble codes that pertain to the vehicles various systems. You first have to run a diagnostic test using an OBD scanner to pinpoint the problem. After the problem has been discovered and repaired, you must reset the code using the same OBD scanner. Always fix the problem first before attempting to erase the codes or you risk further damage to your vehicle.

Instructions

1

Pull down on the fuse panel cover from the top with your fingers. You can find it on the lower part of the drivers side dashboard. Plug the OBD scanner into the port.

2

Put the key into the ignition and turn it to the "On" position, but dont crank the engine.

3

Select the "Delete Codes" command on the scanner. Wait for the menu to indicate the task has been accomplished. Unplug the OBD scanner.

4

Turn on the engine and verify all service and warning lights have been turned off on the instrument panel.

A vehicles rear springs are part of the suspension system. A cars suspension must be kept in good working order, or the ride will be bumpier and rougher for passengers. The suspension also keeps the undercarriage from coming into contact with the ground; so when a suspension has been compromised there is a greater risk for "bottoming out" and causing damage to the vehicle. Repair or replacement may involve removing and reinstalling the rear springs.

Parts

1978 or 1979 Corvette rear spring replacement parts can be used for the 1979 suspension Multi-leaf composite springs are the most durable and can be found included in a complete spring replacement kit.

Removal

Removing the springs involves jacking the rear end of the car, compressing the spring and attaching a chain to the spring. Then the link bolt, cushions and retainers are removed before lowering the car back onto the jack stands. The spring is then caully removed and replaced.

Installation & Torque Specs

Once the spring has been returned and the center clamp properly positioned, the mounting bolts can be replaced. They must be tightened to between 55 and 75 foot-pounds of torque. The rest of the parts are then replaced in the order in which they were removed. Then the car can be lowered and tested.

Bug shields protect the leading edge of your vehicles hood from bugs and stone chips. When a large object or blunt force cracks the plastic bug shield, your hood protection is lost. Regular glues will not bond to plastics. Fixing plastic cracks requires an adhesive designed for each specific type of plastic. Manufacturers use either ABS plastic to make opaque bug shields or Lexan plastic for clear or tinted bug shields.

Instructions

1

Spray window cleaner on the cracked area of the bug shield. Wipe the cleaner from the crack with a clean rag.

2

Stick the end of a syringe in an open container of plastic adhesive. Pull the plunger located at the back of the syringe toward you to fill it with adhesive.

3

Align the tip of the syringe with the center of the bug shield crack. Pull the syringe along the crack as you push in on the plunger. Make sure you fill the length of the crack with adhesive.

4

Set a spring clamp across both sides of the crack. Inspect the crack to ensure that both sides of the crack are at the same height. Leave the clamp on the crack for 24 hours.

5

Remove the spring clamp.

6

Sand any excess cured adhesive from the crack with 600-grit sandpaper. Avoid sanding the surface of the bug shield to reduce scuffing.

The Harley-Davidson Ironhead Sportster motorcycle has been produced continuously since 1957. Its popularity stems from its simple, yet powerful design and the fact that it easily lends itself to customization. A bad set of steering fork head bearings and cups may cause a shimmy or wobble at highway speeds. This wobble may cause excessive rider fatigue and accelerated tire wear. Replacing the fork cups is required when the bearings have worn past their expected service life. Changing the fork cups is a job you can do yourself to keep your Ironhead safe and easy riding.

Instructions

1

Support the motorcycle on a stand so that the front wheel is clear of the ground. Remove the front axle nut and lock washer. Loosen the fork slider cap nuts, disconnect the speedometer cable and remove the brake caliper.

2

Push the front axle out of the wheel hub and remove the front wheel. Take care not to lose the axle spacers and the speedometer gear drive. Remove the front fender.

3

Turn the fuel selector to the "Off" position and remove the fuel tank. Remove the front trim panel, headlight and front turn indicators. Remove the bolts holding the speedometer/tachometer unit and lay the assembly aside.

4

Remove the fork tube caps and loosen the steering head pinch bolts. Twist and remove the front fork tubes. Reinstall the fork tube caps to ensure that no fork oil is spilled.

5

Remove the upper fork stem end nut and pinch bolts. Remove the upper fork bracket. Pull the steering stem out of the frame. On models built before 1975 the steering head bearings are loose and will fall out when the steering stem is removed. There are 28 bearings: 14 on the top and 14 on the bottom. Do not intermix the bearings, and replace them in complete sets if required.

6

Drive out the fork bearing cup with a 3/4-inch-diameter hardwood rod and hammer. Tap all around the bearing cup from the inside of the stem so that neither the bearing cup nor the head tube is bent.

7

Fit the new fork bearing cups into the end of the head tube. Tap them into place slowly and squarely with a block of wood to prevent bearing damage from the hammer.

8

Reassemble the front end in the reverse order of dissasembly. Add fresh bearing grease on the fork cups to hold the loose bearings in place during reassembly.

The Mini Cooper is a small, sporty vehicle made by BMW. The Mini comes standard with a Service Interval Display, or SID, located on the dashboard control panel. The SID lights up to let you know that its time to have your Mini Cooper serviced. After you complete the maintenance on your Mini Cooper, you will need to manually reset the service light, which is easy to do and requires no tools.

Instructions

1

Put the key into the ignition. Press in the trip odometer knob.

2

Turn the ignition key to the first or "I" position while still depressing the trip odometer knob. Look for a message that says "51A" on the dashboard control panel next to the mileage counter.

3

Release the trip odometer knob and wait about three seconds.

4

Depress the trip odometer knob again and wait about 10 seconds. Wait for a message that says "RST" on the dashboard control panel next to the mileage counter. Release the trip odometer knob.

5

Press in the trip odometer knob and wait for "15,000" to appear on the control panel. Release the knob and turn the ignition key to the "Off" position.

The Chevrolet Aveo is a subcompact car manufactured by GM Daewoo since 2002 and marketed under the Chevrolet brand. The most common engine for the Chevrolet Aveo in the United States is a four-cylinder, 1.6-liter engine with a double overhead camshaft. The timing belt on this vehicle synchronizes the rotation of the crankshaft with the rotation of the camshafts. The most important part of the timing belt installation process is keeping the crankshaft and camshafts properly aligned during the procedure.

Instructions

1

Remove the cable from the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench. Disconnect the front cover for the timing belt and remove the mounting bolts for the power steering pump if your vehicle is so equipped.

2

Place a socket wrench on the crankshaft bolt and turn the crankshaft clockwise. Align the timing mark on the crankshaft gear with the timing mark on the rear cover of the timing belt.

3

Loosen the retaining bolts on the water pump slightly. Turn the water pump counterclockwise with Special Tool J-42492-A to relieve the tension on the timing belt. Detach the timing belt from its gears.

4

Disconnect the cover for the engine with a socket wrench and detach the electrical wiring from the spark plugs. Remove the crankcase ventilation tubes and camshaft position sensor from the valve cover. Disconnect the valve cover and its gasket.

5

Hold the intake camshaft in place and remove the mounting bolt for the intake camshaft gear with a socket wrench. Disconnect the camshaft gear from the intake camshaft. Remove the camshaft gear for the exhaust camshaft in the same manner.

6

Install the camshaft gear for the intake camshaft while holding the camshaft in place. Tighten the mounting bolt for the camshaft gear to 49 foot-pounds with a torque wrench. Install the camshaft gear for the exhaust camshaft in the same manner.

7

Replace the valve cover and its gasket with a socket wrench. Attach the camshaft position sensor and crankshaft ventilation tube to the valve cover. Connect the electrical wiring for the spark plugs and attach the engine cover.

8

Turn the crankshaft clockwise to align the timing marks for the crankshaft and camshafts. Place the new timing belt onto the gears.

9

Turn the water pump clockwise with Special Tool J-42492-A to align the adjusting arm of the timing belt tensioner with the notch on the tensioner bracket. Tighten the retaining bolts for the water pump with a socket wrench.

10

Turn the crankshaft two complete turns clockwise with a socket wrench, and align the timing marks for the crankshaft and camshaft again. Repeat Step 9 and tighten the retaining bolts for the water pump to 89 inch-pounds with a torque wrench.

11

Install the mounting bolts for the power steering pump with a socket wrench and replace the front cover for the timing belt. Attach the cable for the negative terminal of the battery.

The "Service Engine Soon" (SES) light will illuminate on the Fords instrument panel when the vehicle is ready for routine maintenance. The On-Board Diagnostics (OBD) computer receives trouble codes from sensors positioned throughout the vehicle. The "E-450" code corresponds to a service issue. Address the issue that triggered the code, then reset and shut off the light with an OBD reset tool. This tool can be obtained from any auto parts store. Resetting the light yourself will save you money and a trip to the dealership.

Instructions

1

Locate the fuse panel cover under the steering column. Open it by turning the knob and pulling down on it from the top by hand.

2

Plug the end of an OBD reset tool into the port inside the fuse panel. This port will be the same size and shape as the connector.

3

Insert the key into the ignition and turn it to the "II" position. Select the "Clear Codes" command on the reset tool.

4

Wait for the SES light to turn off. Unplug the reset tool and turn off the vehicle.

The side post battery is a simple connection that has a special bolt with a large built-in flat washer surrounded by and tucked under a plastic cover. This terminal, bolts to a flat lead post with a 3/8-inch threaded hole in the center. The plastic cover of the side post terminal holds the special bolt securely in place and protects the connections from the elements reducing corrosion which reduces connection failures. If the terminal bolts head or threads become stripped or damaged the bolt should be replaced. Replacement bolts are available.

Instructions

1

Disconnect both side post terminals from the battery using a socket and ratchet or vise grip pliers if the bolts head is stripped. Remove the negative terminal of the battery first.

2

Thread a 3/8-inch nut a few turns onto the terminal bolt to be removed. The nut will expand the surface area of the bolt end.

3

Pull the terminal with the bolt to be removed away from the battery. Select a deep well socket that is much larger than the terminal bolts washer located under the plastic cover and place it centered over the head of the bolt.

4

Hammer the nut end of the terminal bolt while supporting the other side with a large deep well socket until the bolt pushes through the plastic and into the socket. It may require the socket be backed up against the engine block or a solid surface.

5

Place the new terminal bolt into the terminal and use a small screwdriver like a shoe horn to slip the washer ledge of the new bolt under the plastic cover.

6

Brush the battery posts clean with a wire brush.

7

Reconnect both battery terminals. Connect the positive terminal first as a safety precaution.

The oxygen sensor is an integral part of your Dakotas emissions system. It monitors the amount of oxygen in the exhaust. When an O2 sensor fails, your Dakota may hesitate or your fuel mileage may noticeably decrease. If your Check Engine light comes on, the O2 sensor may be to blame. Most auto parts stores will scan the computer for you to determine the problem at no cost. Purchase replacement sensors from an auto parts store or Dodge dealership.

Instructions

1

Lift your Dakota using a jack. Secure the truck on a set of jack stands so that you can comfortably work under it.

2

Locate the downstream oxygen sensor on the pipe behind the catalytic converter, running beside the frame rail. Disconnect the wiring from the sensor by pulling it straight out of the connector. Remove the O2 sensor using an oxygen sensor socket and a ratchet.

3

Install the replacement sensor with the oxygen sensor socket and the ratchet, turning it clockwise until it is secure. Torque the sensor to 22 foot-pounds with a torque wrench. Connect the wiring harness to the sensor by plugging it into the connection on the sensor.

4

Locate the upstream O2 sensors on either side of the transmission oil pan. There is an exhaust pipe running on each side of the pan with sensors in each one. Disconnect the wiring harness from each of the sensors then remove the sensors with the oxygen sensor socket and ratchet.

5

Install the new sensors in each location using the oxygen sensor ratchet. Torque the sensors to 22 foot-pounds with a torque wrench. Attach the wiring harness to the sensors by plugging them straight into the connections on the sensors.

6

Raise the vehicle up with the jack and remove the jack stands. Lower the vehicle to the ground.

A camshaft controls the height and the duration of lift for the valves in the heads of your engine. The distance a camshaft lifts the engine valves depends on the size of the camshaft lobes. As the camshaft turns, a pushrod moves along the lobe in an elliptical pattern. When the pushrod sits on the rounded section of the lobe, the valve sits in its closed position. As the pushrod moves over the tapered section of the lobe, the valve opens. Knowing the camshaft lift--lobe length--allows you to setup your engine for maximum performance.

Instructions

1

Spray carburetor cleaner on the camshaft lobes. Allow the cleaner to sit on the camshaft for five to 10 minutes. Wipe the oil residue and carburetor cleaner from the camshaft with a rag.

2

Open the jaws of a Vernier caliper. Slide the open jaws over the round end of a camshaft lobe. Close the caliper jaws until each jaw sits tight to one side of the lobe. Write down the measurement.

3

Open the jaws of the caliper. Place the bottom caliper jaws on the rounded end of the camshaft lobe. Push the top jaw tight to the top point of the lobe taper. Write down the measurement.

4

Subtract the rounded lobe dimension from the taper dimension. The difference between the two measurements equals the lift of the camshaft.

The purpose of the oil pump in a car is to circulate oil through the engine as a lubricant between moving parts. The Volvo S70 is a mid-size luxury sedan that was manufactured by Volvo from 1998 to 2000. It most often had a five-cylinder 2.4-liter engine with the oil pump attached to the front of the engine. The replacement of the oil pump on a Volvo S70 requires the removal of additional engine components to access the oil pump.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the negative battery cable with a socket wrench to prevent the engine from starting. Remove the stabilizer brace for the engine. Disconnect the expansion tank and servo reservoir.

2

Remove the accessory drive belt by turning the belt tensioner clockwise with special tool 999 7109. Disconnect the front cover for the timing belt with a socket wrench.

3

Loosen the lug nuts on the right front wheel with a lug wrench. Raise the vehicle with a jack and support it on jack stands. Remove the right front wheel.

4

Disconnect the upper cover for the camshaft with a socket wrench and remove the timing belt. Disconnect the center nut for the vibration damper and remove the vibration damper. Remove the pulley for the crankshaft timing gear and the front crankshaft seal.

5

Remove the mounting bolts for the oil pump with special tool 999 5455. Install the new oil pump and press it with the crankshaft nut to fully seat the oil pump. Tighten the mounting bolts to 88 inch-pounds with tool 999 5455 and a torque wrench.

6

Complete the oil pump installation by performing steps one through four in reverse order. Tighten the center nut for the vibration damper to 133 foot-pounds with a torque wrench. Tighten the bolt for the engine bracket bolt to 59 foot-pounds. Start the Volvo S70 engine and check for oil leaks.

Transponder keys are automotive keys specifically designed to deter theft. Each transponder key has a chip in the plastic cap that emits a unique electronic signal to a receiver in the cars ignition. If the signal isnt clear or is from the wrong key, the car will not turn over. Transponder keys are programmed by the manufacturer of the car for one specific vehicle. This is why special professional-grade equipment is required to clone a transponder key. It must be able to program the key electronically with the correct signal. You can copy a transponder key, however, with the aid of a professional.

Instructions

1

Call your dealership if you need a copy of your key and ask for a price quote. Then call an automotive locksmith and ask her for a quote.

2

Order a key from the provider with the price that best fits your budget. An automotive locksmith will often charge less and deliver the key to you directly if need be.

3

Test the new cloned transponder key in your car. If it was programmed incorrectly, it will not start and you will need to have the vendor re-program it with the right frequency for your car.

Car headlights are an essential part of safely running a vehicle. Since headlights are electrical fixtures powered by your cars electricity, they share all the problems associated with electrical fixtures.

Physical Issues

The most obvious issue that can affect your headlights is the bulbs. They can burn out like any other light bulb. Any damage to your cars front end can damage your bulb or its connections. You can check these; also check your fuses to see if one has blown.

Electrical Issues

Electrical issues can be thought as a line of electricity which begins at the battery, goes to the alternator, the fuse box, the light switch and finally ends at your headlights. Any lapse in this continuity can cause problems. Check each aspect sequentially. Begin by starting the car. If it starts, the battery isnt the problem. If the car idles, the alternator isnt the problem. If the fuse is good, you have ruled out everything up to the relay, light switch and bulb. If the bulbs are fine, the problem is most likely the switch.

The Chevy Blazer has the same 4.3 liter engine, the same chassis and the same exhaust components from 1994 to 1999. This includes the two oxygen sensors. The bank one sensor is located on the left side (drivers side) of the front exhaust Y-pipe. The bank two sensor is located just before the catalytic convertor in the exhaust pipe. Which oxygen sensor needs to be replaced will require an OBD II (On Board Diagnostics II) computer code reader or scan tool to determine the culprit. They are removed the same way, but the bank two sensor is much easier to get to. However, the parts and labor estimate may to replace the sensor may help you decide to take on the job yourself with just a few tools.

Instructions

1

Drive the 1999 Blazer up on car ramps to raise the front end. If you do not have car ramps, lift the front of the Blazer on a flat, level paved or concrete surface using a floor jack and two jack stands placed under the front frame rails. Apply the parking brake.

2

Place a wheel chock behind one of the rear wheels.

3

Put on the safety glasses and crawl under the Blazer (on a creeper if you have one) and bring the remaining tools with you.

4

Locate the oxygen sensor to replace. The bank one sensor is up under the left drivers side just forward of the front exhaust Y-pipe. The bank two sensor is located in the exhaust pipe just forward of the catalytic converter.

5

Follow the wire harness plugged into the oxygen sensor youre replacing. Using the small straight edged screwdriver, press in the lock clip of the plug and unplug the oxygen sensor wire from the harness.

6

Place the 22 millimeter wrench or oxygen sensor socket and ratchet onto the oxygen sensor and turn it to the left to release it. If it does not want to release, light the hand held portable propane torch and heat the exhaust pipe around the edge of the oxygen sensor. Do not heat the oxygen sensor, too. Just the pipe around it. Try to loosen the sensor until youre successful. If you had to use the torch, allow the exhaust pipe to cool down and just take a break.

7

Apply a light coat of high-temperature anti-seize lubricant to the threads of the new oxygen sensor only if there is not already some on them.

8

Screw the new oxygen sensor into the port. Tighten with the wrench or socket and ratchet. Do not over-tighten. The sensor only has about 4 to 5 threads and stripping those threads would be futile to the sensor.

9

Plug the sensor wire back into the wire harness.

10

Collect all the tools and debris from under the Blazer. Remove the wheel chock and lower the Blazer.

Transmission fluid provides the necessary lubrication a vehicles transmission needs to function properly. The performance of an automobiles transmission is directly affected by transmission fluid levels.

Too Much

An excessive amount of transmission fluid can negatively affect a transmission. When fluid levels are too great, it can result in air mixing in with the transmission fluid. This can cause slipping in a transmission as well as other gear-shifting issues.

Too Little

When transmission fluid levels are too low, this can also be damaging to a transmission. It can slip or be slow to engage when not enough fluid has been added. Keep the fluid levels between the Full and Add section of your transmissions dipstick.

Check Levels

Because a transmission should be hot when performing fluid level checks, a vehicle should be put in park and left idling during this process. If everything is fine, you wont get a low-level fluid reading because transmissions dont consume fluid during operation. A low level reading often indicates a leak.

Dodge introduced the Caravan in 1983 and still manufactures the vehicle. This minivan was equipped with a 3.3 liter V6 engine that had an output of 158 brake horsepower, which is pretty impressive for a family car. The V6 engine was designed to have two head gaskets, one on each side of the block. The head gaskets must occasionally be replaced because a blown or a leaking head gasket may cause bad engine performance.

Instructions

1

Drain the cooling system and disconnect the negative battery cable. Remove the intake manifold and throttle body. Disconnect the coil wires, sending unit wire, heater hoses and by-pass hose. Remove the closed ventilation system, evaporation control system and cylinder head covers.

2

Remove the exhaust manifolds. Remove the rocker arm and shaft assemblies. Remove the push rods and identify each one of them to ensure re-installation in the original locations. Remove the nine head bolts from each cylinder head, and remove the cylinder heads.

3

Inspect the surface of the cylinder head. Remove the old head gasket. Before cleaning, check for leaks, damage and cracks. Clean the cylinder head and oil passages. Check the cylinder head for flatness. Inspect all surfaces with a straightedge if you suspect leakage. If out of flatness exceeds 0.00075 inches, either replace the head or lightly machine the head surface.

4

Clean all debris, coolant and dirt from the engine block cylinder head bolt holes. Failure to remove all foreign material may result in improperly tightened fasteners, damaged threads or damage to components. Install the new head gasket. To re-install all parts, follow the same operation in reverse.

Problems that occur within an auto electrical system cant be dealt with until you determine whats causing the problems and why. However, with a little information and a few easy-to-use tools such as a voltmeter, nearly anyone can diagnose electrical issues common with some of todays automobiles.

Diagnose Voltage

Voltage problems within an auto electrical system are often caused by loose connections in the wiring. A bad ground connection or a faulty switch could also be the culprit. Doing a voltage drop test using a voltmeter will allow you to check for a drop in voltage, which indicates trouble if the drop is greater than 0.4 volts.

Diagnose Circuits

Because all circuits have to have voltage to power products, the first thing to do when diagnosing circuit issues in an auto electrical system is to check for voltage at the head of the circuit. No voltage here indicates problems with areas that supply the circuit with voltage, such as the power relay.

Diagnose Circuit Breakers

A test can be done to help determine if a circuit breaker has gone bad. By bypassing the circuit breaker using a jumper wire, it can then be attached directly to the circuit in order to test it. If the circuit is found to be in working order after bypassing the circuit breaker, then the circuit breaker is the problem and will have to be replaced.

Plastic is a very commonplace material used for just about everything. Because so much is made out of plastic, several companies have built their empire by providing various methods for repairing it. The most important element in plastic oil tank repair is to know exactly what kind of plastic your oil tank is made of. This allows you to purchase the proper patching materials. There are multiple ways of repairing your plastic oil tank, which method you select depends mostly on how much you care about appearance versus ease of use.

Instructions

1

Repair your plastic oil tank with a plastic repair kit. Plastic repair kits are available at any hardware store and are relatively inexpensive. These kits contain epoxy, fiberglass cloth, application brush and sandpaper. Simply sand down the crack or hole, cover it with the fiberglass cloth, prepare the epoxy and brush it over the fiberglass to create a patch. These patches appear rough at first, but you can sand them down for a more aesthetically pleasing finish once the epoxy has set. Additionally, you can paint the patch to match the rest of the tank. Plastic repair kits are great if youre not too bothered with a rough finish.

2

Repair your plastic oil tank with a plastic sealing tape. Sealing tapes are available at any hardware store and are great for an easy fix for smaller cracks and holes. Sealing tapes adhere well to any plastic type and can maintain seal in temperatures as low as -40 degrees to 180 degrees Fahrenheit. Simply apply the sealing tape over the small hole or crack to solve your problem. Note: sealing tape gets the job done, but you may have to replace it from time to time. Sealing tape is perfect for a person thats looking for a quick and easy fix to a small problem.

3

Repair your plastic oil tank with a speed tip plastic welder. Speed tip welding is a technique that heats up a plastic rod while pushing a soft bead of plastic out of the tip, similar to soldering. Although speed tip welding offers the most precise plastic repair, it is also the most challenging and expensive plastic repair method. Speed tip welding is also the best method for repairing a crack or a hole in a hard to repair area such as a corner. Speed tip welding is perfect for hobbyists and professionals who really value the aesthetic appearance of the repair work.

The headlamps on your 2001 Lexus IS300 are expensive parts of your luxury sedan that can last decades without any maintenance. But headlamps can crack or break in an accident or when hit by rocks or other road hazards. In such cases, they need to be replaced. Or you might want to switch your headlamps to aftermarket headlamps that are more powerful or stylish. In either case, you can remove your Lexus headlamps in minutes.

Instructions

1

Open the hood and pull back the rubber gasket located behind the headlamp.

2

Open the metal tab on the back of the bulb with a flat-head screwdriver.

3

Turn the bulb counterclockwise and remove it from the headlamp assembly.

4

Remove the three bolts across the top of the headlamp assembly with a socket wrench fitted with a 10 mm socket.

5

Release the tab underneath the weather stripping on the side of the headlamp assembly and remove the assembly.

6

Disconnect the wiring harness by pushing down on the plastic piece on top of the harness, then pulling the plug out of the harness.

The GMC Suburban is a large SUV that many people use for towing boats or RVs. If you are having problems starting your Suburban, there are certain aspects of the SUV that you can look at before paying a mechanic to fix it. The battery and the fuel levels are the primary reasons that many Suburbans will not start. After checking the Suburbans fuel level and the battery, you may have to consult a mechanic regarding what is wrong with your SUV.

Instructions

1

Open the hood to the Suburban and look over the battery connections. These should not have any corrosion or debris on them.

2

Remove the corrosion on your Suburban with soda and a wire brush.

3

Put the terminals back onto the battery and then tighten them with a socket wrench.

4

Try to restart the car.

5

Jump start the Suburban with another car and jumper cables.

6

Leave the car running for about 5 minutes and then turn it off.

7

Try to restart the SUV. If the SUV does not restart, replace the battery.

8

Check the fuel levels to the car. Add one gallon of gas to the car and then try to start it again. If the SUV starts, replace the gas gauge.

An often-overlooked component of any automobile is the headlight system. There are two basic types of headlights: traditional incandescents, which can be found on most models manufactured before 2000; and HID lights, which can be found on many newer models and provide a stronger, more efficient beam. The HID light got its start in Europe, leading many to refer to this type of lighting as European styled, or French styled headlights. If you have an older model car you can still use these newer styled headlights by purchasing a do-it-yourself conversion kit.

Instructions

1

Pop the hood and locate the rear of the headlight assembly. Notice the wire entering the headlight. This is the wiring harness which delivers electricity to the light. Unplug this now.

2

Reach into the headlight interior. Depending on the size of your hand you may need to pull the headlight assembly out a couple inches to accomplish this. Once inside, grasp the bulb and turn it to the left to loosen and remove it.

3

Insert the new HID bulb and turn it to the right to secure it in place. Then attach the ballast to the rear of the headlight assembly with the double sided tape provided in the conversion kit.

4

Plug the wiring harness into the ballast and then connect the ballast to the headlight assembly with the connecting wire provided in the kit.

5

Repeat the above process with the other headlight to complete the conversion to French styled headlights.

Numerous lights illuminate the Chrysler Town and Country minivan interior, from front map lights to the lights located in the rear-seating compartment. Occasionally it becomes necessary to replace the bulbs in these lights and although the bulb type may vary, the replacement process is similar. Save money by tackling the task of replacing any burned out van interior light bulbs at home rather than at the repair shop.

Instructions

1

Locate the plastic tabs that hold the light lens, or cover, in place. Insert the screwdriver into the gap between the lens and the light housing and gently pry until you can see in between the two. Reposition the screwdriver and repeat the process until you locate the tabs.

2

Remove the light lens carefully. Release the tab from one side of the housing using the screwdriver as leverage. Pry the lens downward until the lens is released. You now can release the other tab and remove the lens.

3

Remove the bulb from the socket. Turn the bulb or simply pull it out, depending on the bulb being replaced.

4

Insert the replacement bulb. You may want to test the bulb before replacing the lens.

5

Replace the lens by first securing the retaining tab on one side and then gently push the other side of the lens into place. You may need to use the screwdriver as leverage.

The Acura 3.5 RL, also known as the Acura Legend, is a mid-level luxury car manufactured by Honda from 1996 to 2004. It had a six-cylinder 3.5-liter engine with multi-port fuel injection. This type of fuel injection requires the fuel pump to deliver highly pressurized fuel to the fuel injectors. The fuel pump in the Acura 3.5 RL is on top of the fuel tank and is accessible from the rear seat of the vehicle.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the negative battery cable with a socket wrench to prevent sparking. Open the filler cap for the fuel tank to relieve the pressure in the fuel tank.

2

Wrap a shop towel around the banjo bolt on top of the fuel filter. Hold the fuel filter with an open-end wrench. Loosen the banjo bolt slowly by one complete turn with a box-end wrench to relieve the pressure in the fuel system. Tighten the banjo bolt to its original position with the box-end wrench.

3

Remove the rear seat cushion and open the access panel on the floor of the passenger compartment. Disconnect the electrical connector from the fuel pump.

4

Remove the mounting nuts for the fuel pump with a socket wrench. Lift the fuel pump from the fuel tank.

5

Place the new fuel pump into the fuel tank and fasten the mounting bolts with a socket wrench. Attach the electrical connector for the fuel pump. Close the access panel and replace the rear seat cushion. Reconnect the negative battery cable.

The Carter Carburetor Company manufactured several types of carburetors in 1949. The most popular was the W type and the B&B. The W type appeared on cars made by GM, Chrysler, Hudson, Packard and many others. The B&B type was used mainly on Chrysler and Desoto products. The W type carburetor can be divided into three basic categories: the single downdraft W1, the dual downdraft WDO, and the Vacumeter WA1 type. The procedure for rebuilding all Carter carburetor types is roughly the same.

Instructions

1

Disassemble the carburetor completely. Remove the top air horn from the float bowl. Remove the float, accelerator pump, metering rods and jets. Remove the body flange assembly from the float bowl assembly. Do not remove the throttle valve or choke valve from the shafts. Keep small parts in a container such as an old coffee can to prevent them from becoming lost or damaged.

2

Soak all metal carburetor parts in carburetor cleaning dip. Do not soak any rubber or leather parts such as the accelerator pump or choke housing. Allow the parts to soak until all grease and dirt has been removed. In warmer weather soaking the parts for as little as 20 minutes is usually sufficient. In colder weather, cleaning may take several hours. Remove the parts from the carburetor dip and rinse off with clean water. Blow dry the parts using compressed air making sure that all passages in the carburetor body are clear. It may be necessary on a very dirty carburetor to use a wire brush and pipe cleaners to properly clean everything.

3

Install the float bowl onto the body flange using a new gasket. Install the jets into the float bowl. Install the needle valve and float. Adjust the float by turning the carburetor upside down and allow the float to hang freely. Measure the distance from the soldered seam on the float to the machined surface of the float bowl. Bend the tab on the float with a slotted screwdriver to adjust the float to the proper specifications for the model carburetor you are working on.

4

Install and adjust the metering rods on W1 and WGD models. Record the metering rod numbers stamped on the rods and select the proper rod gauge from the carburetor gauge kit. Adjust the metering rods by backing off on the throttle adjusting screw until the throttle valve is fully closed. Insert the metering rod gauge in place of one of the metering rods making sure the tapered end is inserted into the jet. Push down on the vacuum piston link until the finger of the piston link touches the lip of the metering arm. Clearance should be .005 inch between the bearing on the metering arm and the lower notch on the gauge. Bend the lip on the metering arm with a pair of needle nose pliers to make the adjustment.

5

Install and adjust the metering rods on WE models. Hold the throttle lever set screw and back out the throttle valve seated in the bore. Press down on the vacuum meter link until the rods bottom out. Hold the rods in this position and revolve the metering rod arm until the lip on the arm contacts the vacuum meter link. Hold the the metering rod in this position and tighten the metering arm set screw.

6

Adjust the accelerator pump for seasonal variations. The accelerator pump is adjustable by means of three holes in the pump arm. Set the pump link in the lower hole for summer, the middle hole for intermediate climate, and the upper hole for winter.

7

Adjust the unloader cam and boss. Close the choke manually and insert a .010 feeler gauge between the cam and boss. Loosen the choke arm and move the boss to set to specification. Adjust the lip on the throttle arm with a pair of needle-nose pliers so the choke valve will open 3/16 inch at wide open throttle.

8

Adjust the pump jets for proper aim. On most models there is a target mark in the venture on the opposite wall form the jets. Gasoline should squirt directly on the target when the throttle is opened. Bend the jets gently with a pair of needle nose pliers until the stream of gasoline hits the target. On carburetors without a target mark aim the gas stream to hit in a 3/16 inch diameter circle located 11/64 inch form the opposite side of the bore.

9

Adjust the fast idle. Close the choke valve by hand. Turn the fast idle screw until a .0012 inch wire gauge just fits between the throttle valve and and carburetor casting.

Removing the trans axle from a 2000 Chevrolet Malibu is a challenging task that may be accomplished in a well equipped home shop. According to Robert Kautz of ACE Automotive, the job will require an experienced mechanic with a full complement of general automotive repair tools and supplies as well as the special tools listed below. Read the procedure through before starting and wear safety glasses at all times.

Instructions

Preparation

1

Park the vehicle on a level surface. Use the floor jacks to lift it and place the car on the jack stands. Raise it high enough that you can comfortably work on top and get underneath. Be sure all stands are solidly engaged on a firm surface. Try to shake the car, if there is any movement, re-set the stands. Do not get under the vehicle until you are sure it is stable. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2

Use the lengths of rope to secure the radiator and air conditioning condenser. Loop the rope around the units on each side and tie them off using the hood bumpers. Remove the air cleaner box and hose.

3

Attach the engine hoist or support fixture to the engine lifting tabs and adjust so that the full weight of the engine will be supported at all times. You will be removing the bottom engine supports with the transaxle.

Removal

4

Label and disconnect all electrical connections to the engine. Disconnect the shift cable from the transaxle. Remove the harnesses from their brackets on the transaxle and tuck them out of the way.

5

Remove the three engine to transaxel bolts from the top. Loosen the front wheel lugs and drive axel hub nuts. Remove the inner fender splash shields. Use the ball joint tool to separate the control arm balljoints from the steering knuckles to facilitate axel removal. Disconnect the tie rod ends from the steering linkage.

6

Disconnect and label the remaining electrical connectors under the vehicle. Detach them from the brackets on the subframe. Remove the bracket that connects the transaxel to the engine. Remove the bolts securing the torque converter cover and remove the cover. Remove the starter motor. Mark the driveplate and torque converter to indicate their position relative to each other and use the offset box wrench and flywheel tool to remove the bolts connecting the two.

7

Use the flare nut wrenches as necessary to remove all cooler and brake lines obstructing the removal process. Plug the lines to prevent leaks. Disconnect the power steering lines and remove the bolt securing the line on the right side of the subframe. Remove the panel supporting the radiator and condenser.

8

Remove the three transaxle mounts. Position two floor jacks under the transaxel subframe and remove the mounting bolts. Remove the subframe slowly. Remove the left bracket to transaxle mounting bolts and the heater core bracket bolt. Remove the remaining bolts holding the transaxle to the engine.

9

Use the transmission jack to slide the transaxle to the left and lower it slowly.

The 1999 Chrysler 300M has two different belts that travel around the accessory pulleys. The first belt is a drive belt that controls the air conditioner compressor. The second belt is a serpentine belt that controls the remaining accessories such as the alternator, power steering pump and the water pump. Both belts are routed around each designated accessory pulley in a method that allows the accessories to function from the same belt. Both the drive belt and the serpentine belt are tensioned by an adjustable idler pulley. If the belts develop any visible fraying, change them out immediately.

Instructions

1

Open the hood and prop it in place to prevent it from falling.

2

Locate the serpentine belt adjustable idler pulley that tensions the serpentine belt on the front of the engine. This adjustable idler pulley will be closest to the top side of the engine. Position a metric socket onto the ratchet and loosen the bolt in the center of the serpentine belt idler pulley.

3

Remove the socket from the ratchet and a both of the 8-inch extensions to the ratchet. Put the socket back onto the bottom of the extension. Move to the underside of the engine and locate the adjustment bolt on the bottom of the serpentine belt idler pulley. Position the ratchet, extension and socket onto the adjustment bolt. Turn the adjustment bolt a couple of turns to loosen the serpentine belt. Remove the belt from all of the accessory pulleys and out of the engine well.

4

Remove the air conditioner compressor belt from the bottom side of the engine also. Locate the adjustable idler pulley for the air conditioner compressor belt on the lower front passenger side of the engine. Loosen the bolt in the center of the adjustable idler pulley with the ratchet and a socket. Remove the socket and position the extensions back onto the ratchet and push the socket back onto the bottom extension.

5

Turn the adjustment bolt on the bottom of the adjustable idler pulley counter clockwise a couple of times with the ratchet, extensions and socket. Pull the belt off of the air conditioner compressor pulley and the other pulleys.

6

Route the new air conditioner belt around the same pulleys including the adjustable idler pulley. Tighten the belt by turning the bolt on the bottom of the adjustable pulley clockwise until the belt is tight. Check the belt tension by pushing inward on the belt. The belt should have no more than a half-inch of free play to be properly tensioned. If the belt is too tight or too loose, adjust as needed. Once the belt is properly tightened, tighten the bolt down tight in the center of the adjustable idler pulley.

7

Route the new serpentine belt around all of the accessory pulleys including around the adjustable idler pulley. Tighten the serpentine belt by turning the bolt on the bottom of the adjustable pulley clockwise until the belt is tight. Check the belt tension by pushing inward on the belt. The belt should have no more than a half-inch of free play to be properly tensioned. If the belt is too tight or too loose, adjust as needed. Once the belt is properly tightened, tighten the bolt down tight in the center of the adjustable idler pulley.

8

Crank the 1999 Chrysler 300M for about fifteen seconds. Turn the motor off and recheck the tension of both belts. If the belts are too tight or too loose, adjust the tension as needed to reach the required half-inch of free play

Removing the gas tank from your 1989 Jeep Wrangler and replacing it with an aftermarket or original equipment (OE) replacement will only take a couple of hours and basic hand tools. Before you start, be sure the gas tank is empty (or as close to it as possible) to reduce the weight of the tank and the possibility of a spill. The tank sits between the frame rails under the rear of the Jeep, all the way to the rear of the frame.

Instructions

1

Position a jack under the rear of the Jeep and raise the vehicle off of the ground. Place a set of jack stands under the rear axle housing and lower the jack, allowing the Jeep to rest on the stands.

2

Locate the two nuts on the j-bolts at the front of the gas tank. Loosen the nuts with a wrench, allowing the tank to sag on the mounts. Reach between the tank and the body of the vehicle and remove the hose clamp from the filler hose on the top of the tank.

3

Disconnect the wiring harness connectors from the terminals on top of the tank and set them aside. Position a floor jack under the center of the tank to support it, and then remove the nuts from the j-bolts.

4

Slowly lower the jack and tank away from the frame of the truck. Remove the steel support straps from under the tank, and then slide the tank out from under the rear of the Jeep.

The Saturn L-Series was a family of mid-size sedans and station wagons that General Motors produced from 2000 to 2005. The LS model was a sedan with a four-cylinder, 2.2-liter engine. The 2000 Saturn LS had an anti-lock braking system as a standard feature, which includes a brake control module, or BCM. The BCM has a microprocessor that calculates the braking power for each wheel during an emergency stop. The BCM in a Saturn LS is a black box in the engine compartment near the dash on the drivers side that can be replaced in a few simple steps.

Instructions

1

Turn the ignition off. Clean the BCM and surrounding area with a shop cloth to prevent contamination of the ABS when you remove the BCM.

2

Detach the electrical connector from the BCM. Remove the four retaining bolts that attach the BCM to the brake pressure modulator valve with a socket wrench. Pull the BCM carefully away from the valve.

3

Clean the the valve with a shop cloth and denatured alcohol to prevent contamination of the new BCM. Mount the new BCM to the valve and align the electrical terminals for the BCM and the valve.

4

Install the four retaining bolts that fasten the BCM to the valve. Tighten the bolts to 27 inch-pounds with a torque wrench. Attach the electrical connector to the BCM.

The law states that every vehicle on the road should have two working headlights, as well as two tail lights. This is for the safety of yourself and the other drivers on the road, as you must be able to see the road in front of you and be warned if a car is slowing down. If you need new tail lights on your Chevrolet Optra, the replacement procedure will only take you a few minutes.

Instructions

1

Go to the back of your Chevrolet Optra and open the trunk. Clear the trunk on the side that the broken tail light is on. You want full access to this area.

2

Move the cloth trunk mat away from the back of the tail light you are fixing. Locate the plastic nuts that are holding the tail light in place. Twist these nuts in a counterclockwise direction until they come all the way off. Use an adjustable wrench if you cannot loosen these with your fingers.

3

Pull the tail light fixture out. If it gets stuck, you can push on the fixture from the inside of the trunk. Use gentle, but firm, pressure to remove the tail light.

4

Replace the tail light with a new fixture. Make sure it is in securely. Tighten the plastic nuts in a clockwise direction and replace the cloth trunk mat.

The FXCW Rocker delivers, according to the Harley-Davidson Motor Company, "custom-chopper style with Harley-Davidson quality and innovation, with features like the tire-hugging Rockertail rear section." Unfortunately, unless you build your custom chopper yourself, sometimes style and innovation conflict with functionality. For example, it might seem like a simple job to install a new Electronic Control Module. But before he can install a new ECM, the owner must first wrestle the innovative Rockertail rear into submission. There are a few steps that will help you access the Rockers electronic caddy and install an ECM.

Instructions

1

Lift the rear of the Rocker seat and pull up and back. Remove the two exposed Allen bolts just behind the gas tank with an Allen wrench. Remove the seat.

2

Remove the four Torx bolts, two on each side of the bike, that secure the seat support assembly to the motorcycle chassis with a socket wrench and Torx socket. Remove the seat support assembly.

3

Loosen the four hex head bolts that secure the black, plastic, guard under the seat assembly with a socket wrench and hex socket. Remove the guard.

4

Disconnect the rear wiring harness connector halves.

5

Remove the lower fender mounting bolts and washers with a socket wrench and Torx socket. Remove the upper fender mounting screws and washers with a Torx socket. Remove the rear fender.

6

Remove the harness clipped to the right side of the electrical compartment splash guard just forward of the rear wheel. Remove the two hex head bolts and washers that secure the splash guard to the chassis. Remove the splash guard.

7

Remove the two bolts that secure the electrical compartment cover to the electrical compartment body with an open end wrench. Locate the ECM next to a fuse marked "40."

8

Unplug the ECM from its pigtail connection to the wiring harness. Remove the ECM and install the new ECM.

9

Reinstall the electrical compartment cover, the splash guard and the rear fender. Reconnect the rear wiring harness connector halves. Reinstall the seat support assembly guard, the seat support assembly and the seat.

The Subaru 2.5L engine is made from aluminum alloy. In order for the heads to properly seal and to prevent warping, a special sequence must be followed when installing the head bolts. Not only is the tightening method critical, so is the order. You will need both inch and foot pound torque wrenches as well as a torque angle gauge.

Clean All Surfaces

Clean the cylinder heads and the block mating surfaces thoroughly with lacquer thinner or acetone. Avoid any scraping tools that could mar the surface.

Position New Parts

Lubricate all bolts and washers with engine oil and place the new gasket on the head locating pins. Position the head on the block and finger tighten all bolts.

The Tightening Sequence

The order for tightening is as follows: top center, bottom center, left top, bottom right, bottom left, top right. Follow this sequence for each step.

Tight but not too Tight

Tighten all bolts to 22 foot-pounds. Tighten all bolts to 51 foot-pounds. This first sequence sets the gasket. Loosen all bolts in reverse order. Loosen them again another 160. Tighten bolts one and two to 25 to 36 foot-pounds. Tighten bolts three, four, five and six to 132 inch-pounds.

Final Procedure

Use the torque angle gauge to tighten all bolts another 90. Follow the sequence again and tighten them another 45. Tighten bolts one and two only an additional 45(turbocharged models only).

Several problems plague the instrument clusters in vehicles of every make, model and year. These problems become more difficult to fix as cars themselves become more complex and computerized. Older cars merely required tinkering with a plug or smacking the top of the dashboard to "fix" the problem. Newer cars often require full replacement of the entire instrument cluster, which can cost hundreds of dollars.

Full Replacement

Full replacement of the instrument cluster requires a mechanic to remove the entire dashboard and steering column to remove the instrument cluster. The part is then replaced and the entire dashboard must be replaced. This simple removal and replacement can take hours to complete since it requires so much work to get to the part. New or used, the cluster is very pricey considering its function. Some models of used instrument cluster can be found on sites such as eBay Motors for about $100, though these often come with no guarantee or return policy. New instrument clusters cost between $400 and $1,500, depending on the year, make and model of the vehicle.

Cosmetic Repairs

Cosmetic repairs, such as repainting or replacing worn out needles or replacing a bulb thats gone bad in a digital odometer, are just as difficult as replacing the entire instrument cluster. In fact, many mechanics suggest simply replacing the entire instrument cluster when this happens because they must go through the same motions anyway. However, if you do not mind having an exposed instrument panel, the fiberglass dust panel may be removed for easier access to the needles. The needles are made of hard plastic, but a paint like Testors or similar model paint will work to repaint this surface. Panels that have warped or broken because of an accident or heat must be fully replaced.

Non-Replacement Repairs

Instrument clusters are made of two small computer modules that connect to the vehicles main computer via a system of wires in later model cars. In older cars, the system is mostly pressure hoses with a few wires running into the transmission, engine and other areas of the vehicle. The computer modules can be replaced on their own. However, this too includes removing the entire dash from the car to get to these modules, which are located on the back of the instrument cluster. The wires and hoses on older models of vehicles can be replaced by snipping them off and connecting new ones.

"Transmission slip" is a term used to describe a transmission that is not operating properly. A slipping transmission adds stress to the transmission and other drive-train components and if not promptly repaired can cause serious problems.

Definition

A slipping transmission is a transmission that is slow to respond when put into gear or when shifting gears. When the transmission slips, the engine often revs quickly as if the car had been put into neutral, but the car does not accelerate.

Causes

The most common cause of a slipping transmission is low transmission fluid due to a leak. As the fluid level falls, there is not enough transmission fluid to properly operate the transmission. Transmission fluid breakdown and wear of the transmission gears may also cause the transmission to slip.

Repair

When a transmission slip is noticed, a car owner should check the transmission fluid level and add fluid if the level is low. If the transmission fluid is not low and the car is due for a transmission fluid change, the car owner should change the fluid. If the transmission continues to slip, the car owner should consult with a trusted transmission repair shop.

It is important to keep your vehicles brake lights functioning well. Brake lights serve as a guide to the driver behind you to brake when you are slowing your car down. Malfunctioning brake lights could cause accidents on the road. Fixing the car brake lights usually involves changing the malfunctioning light bulb.

Instructions

1

Park your vehicle and turn off the ignition. Open the vehicles trunk and access the brake light assembly and remove the red and yellow plastic cover of the brake lights by unscrewing it using the Phillips-head screwdriver in order to access the light bulb. Set aside the screws as it will be needed later on.

2

Locate the brake light bulb. It is usually the center bulb of three bulbs located in the area. Unscrew the brake light bulb by pushing it slightly and turning it counterclockwise at the same time. Set it aside.

3

Clean the area where you removed the bulb with a dry rag. You can also use a steel brush if there is accumulated dirt on the socket. The accumulated dirt can sometimes be the cause of the malfunctioning brake light.

4

Install a new light bulb on the socket by pushing it slightly and twisting it in a clockwise direction. Make sure the bulb is aligned well and screwed in evenly.

5

Check the light bulb to ensure it works by turning on the car and asking someone to push on the brake pedal while you go to the back of the vehicle to see if it lights up.

6

Reattach the plastic cover by inserting the screws in the designated holes and tightening the screws, turning clockwise, using the Phillips-head screwdriver. Put back the brake light assembly at the back of the vehicles trunk.

7

Remove the brake light cover on the vehicles other side and follow steps 2 to 6 to replace the light bulb.

The 4.3-liter six-cylinder engine in your 2002 GMC Sonoma is equipped with many ways to reduce the harmful emissions created from the combustion process, and the most effective way is through the use of the catalytic converter. When the converter becomes clogged, you will likely experience a drop in fuel economy and engine performance. Your converter is located under the passenger compartment and connects between the exhaust manifold and the muffler inlet pipe. To remove the converter assembly, the rear transmission support will have to be removed.

Instructions

Removal

1

Park the truck on a level surface and set the parking brake. Lift the front of the truck into the air with the floor jack and place two of the jack stands under the front frame rails. Lower the jack until the truck rests securely on the jack stands. Remove the floor jack.

2

Place a block of wood on the jack arm and raise the jack until the wood contacts the transmission pan. Pry up on the transmission wiring harness plastic retainer on the transmission support to remove it. Remove the transmission mount to support stud with the socket and ratchet.

3

Place the third jack stand under the converter assembly and raise the stand arm until it is high enough to support the assembly. Remove the bolts for both of the converter hanger brackets with the socket and ratchet. Remove the three bolts securing the transmission support to the frame rails with the socket and ratchet. Remove the transmission support, washers and reinforcement from under the vehicle.

4

Disconnect the truck wiring harness from the right and left pre-cat oxygen sensors and the post-cat oxygen sensor by squeezing the tabs and pulling them apart. Remove the two converter assembly to muffler pipe nuts with the socket and ratchet. Remove the three flange nuts for the right and left manifold to converter assembly mounting studs.

5

Support the converter assembly by hand and remove the jack stands. Lower the converter assembly and slide it out from under the truck. Pry the both of the rubber hanger and brackets from the converter assembly.

6

Mark each of the oxygen sensors with tape so they can be installed to the same location during the installation process. Place the oxygen sensor socket over the left pre-cat oxygen sensor, making sure the pigtail sticks through the slotted portion of the socket. Remove the oxygen sensor with the oxygen sensor socket and ratchet. Repeat for the right pre-cat and post-cat oxygen sensors and set the oxygen sensors aside.

Installation

7

Clean the oxygen sensor threads with a wire brush. Install a small amount of copper anti-seize to the threads of the oxygen sensors. Install the oxygen sensors to their respective fittings on the converter assembly and tighten to 31 foot-pounds with the oxygen sensor socket and torque wrench. Push the rubber hanger over the hanger arm on the converter assembly; allow the bracket to hang.

8

Install the new exhaust gaskets onto the muffler pipe and both exhaust manifold. Slide the converter assembly under the vehicle and position it under its mounting location. Place the jack stand under the truck and lift the converter assembly onto the stand. Balance the converter and guide the outlet end onto the muffler pipe studs. Install the retaining nuts hand tight.

9

Support the opposite end of the converter assembly by hand and remove the jack stand. Guide the converter assembly inlet onto both of the exhaust manifolds and install the mounting nuts hand tight. Tighten the exhaust manifold nuts alternately to 30 foot-pounds

10

Connect all three oxygen sensor pigtails to their respective wire harness plugs. Set out the transmission support bolts and place a washer on each one. Set the transmission support into place and hold the reinforcement plate in position on the frame. Slide the mounting bolts through the frame and hold them in place. Install a washer to the over each mounting bolts and tighten the nuts to 40 foot-pounds.

11

Install the transmission mount nut and tighten to 42 foot-pounds. Swing the converter hanger bracket up and hold It to the transmission support Install the bracket mounting bolts and tighten to 13 foot-pounds.

12

Lower the floor jack and remove it from under the transmission. Push the transmission harness retainer into its mounting hole on the transmission support. Lift the front of the truck off of the jack stands with the floor jack and remove the jack stands from under the truck. Lower the truck to the ground and remove the floor jack.

The limited-slip differential found in the Ford 8.8-inch rear end is called "Traction-Lok." Locking the rear axles together and equally supplying power to both rear wheels improves traction. As the Mustang GT turns a corner the wheel on the outside of the turn must travel a greater distance, at a greater speed, than the wheel on the inside of the turn. The limited slip differential allows the connection between the two axles to slip and allow the outside wheel to go faster to make the turn smoothly.

Instructions

1

Park the Mustang GT on level ground. Secure the front wheels using wheel chocks. Kick the wheel chocks against the wheels using the heal of your foot so it cannot move while you are under it.

2

Raise and support the Mustang using a floor jack and jack stands. Position the floor jack under the Mustang GTs rear-end (differential) and lift the car until the rear wheels are off the ground. Position jack stands under the rear axles (tubes that connect the differential to the wheels) and lower the car onto the stands.

3

Place the transmission in neutral and release the parking brake. Turn the right rear wheel (by hand) and observe the left rear wheel. If the Mustang GT is equipped with "Traction-Lok" the left rear wheel will turn in the same direction and at the same speed as the right rear wheel. A properly operating limited-slip differential will cause the rear wheels to be difficult to turn by hand.

Lowering your car or trucks exhaust emissions can benefit the environment by reducing the amount of pollution in the air. A number of difference factors can affect the level of gases your vehicle emits into the environment. The Environmental Protection Agency claims that drivers can affect a vehicles long term emissions impact by driving and maintaining it in environmentally friendly ways. Several of these methods also have the added benefit of improving the fuel economy of your vehicle, making your car or truck even more environmentally friendly.

Instructions

1

Maintain your car or truck properly. Problems in your engine or exhaust system will cause the vehicle to emit more emission gases than it would otherwise. A problem such as a bad oxygen sensor can cause the vehicle to consume more fuel, which leads to increased emissions.

2

Upgrade your exhaust system. The exhaust systems on older vehicles may not be up to the current emissions standards, but you can have upgraded exhaust components installed on your vehicle to reduce its emissions.

3

Use high-quality fuel. Higher-octane gasoline burns cleaner, releasing fewer emissions into the atmosphere. Some higher-quality fuels and fuel additives have cleaning agents that will help your engine burn cleaner.

4

Cut back on how much you drive your vehicle. Driving your vehicle less will reduce its overall emissions output. Also, do not allow your car to idle for long periods of time. Idling engines produce emissions and burn fuel.

5

Drive your vehicle gently. Extra emissions are produced when an engine is forced to work harder, as it is when it is made to accelerate rapidly, power the air conditioner or travel at high speeds for long distances.

The heating and air conditioning system on your 1999 Volkswagen Passat uses a blower motor to pull air from the outside, and passes it over the heater core for heating or the heat exchanger when in air conditioning mode. When this system no longer blows air into the passenger compartment, you need to find out why. If you can hear the blower motor running when the system is turned on, there is a problem with the valves and controls. If the switch is in the "on" position, but there is no sound from the motor, the blower motor may need to be replaced.

Instructions

1

Remove the glove box from the passenger side of the dashboard. The glove box is held to the dash bezel using small screws with either Philips heads or small hex-heads. Turn these screws counterclockwise and remove the glove box.

2

Remove the lower knee below the glove box, if your car is equipped with one. Remove the bolts or screws by turning them counterclockwise with the appropriate tool. This may be either a screwdriver or nut driver.

3

Disconnect the blower electrical supply cable. This is accomplished by squeezing the connector to disengage a locking latch and pulling the connector apart.

4

Remove the blower from the air box. Rotate the screws securing the motor to the box by turning them counterclockwise with the appropriate nut driver. Set the old blower motor aside.

5

Remove any debris and obstructions from the blower motor mounting area and air box.

6

Hold the new blower motor in place and align it properly with the mounting holes. Insert the retaining screws and turn them clockwise by hand until finger tight. Tighten these screws with the nut driver.

7

Connect the blower motor power cables. Push the two ends of the connector together firmly until you hear the latch engage with a clicking sound.

8

Reinstall the knee bar. If equipped. Hold the bar in place and insert the retaining screws/bolts, turning them clockwise until finger-tight. Tighten these bolts with a nut driver or screwdriver.

9

Reinstall the glove box. Hold the unit in place and insert all of the bolts and screws you removed in step 1, and turn them clockwise by hand. Tighten these bolts and screws with a screwdriver or nut driver.

Seat belts are the bedrock of automotive passenger safety, and when they break they must be attended to quickly. But the forces at play in a car crash are such that merely repairing a seat belt is a bad idea. A properly functioning seat belt could save a life, and rather than being repaired, seat belts must be replaced altogether to avoid the malfunctioning of any individual part. Seat belt replacement can be done at home with the right tools and technique.

Instructions

1

Remove the car seat. Remove the bolts at the base of the car seat and remove the seat from the vehicle. This will allow easier access to the seat belt.

2

Remove the interior panels that cover the seat belt and retractor.

3

Pull back the bolt cover of the bolt attaching the buckle portion of the seat belt to the floor of the vehicle.

4

Remove the bolt attaching the buckle portion of the seat belt to the floor of the vehicle with a socket driver.

5

Remove the bolt attaching the retractor with a socket driver.

6

Use a socket driver to remove the bolt that holds the bracket the seat belt is threaded through.

7

Remove the retractor and belt bracket.

8

Pull back the cover over the bolt attaching the belt portion of the seat belt.

9

Remove the bolt attaching the belt portion of the seat belt to the floor of the vehicle.

10

Discard the broken seat belt.

11

Bolt the new retractor in place with a socket driver.

12

Use a socket driver to bolt in the new bracket the seat belt is threaded through.

13

Bolt the belt side of the seat belt to the floor of the vehicle with a socket driver.

14

Slide the bolt cover over the bolt that attaches the belt side of the seat belt to the floor of the vehicle.

15

Bolt the buckle portion of the seat belt to the bottom of the vehicle with a socket driver.

16

Slide the bolt cover over the bolt that attaches the buckle portion of the seat belt to the floor of the vehicle.

17

Replace all interior panels that cover the seat belt and retractor.

18

Bolt the car seat back onto the floor of the vehicle with a socket driver.

Some manufacturers insist that shock absorbers should not be disassembled but replaced as whole parts. Other vendors understand that the springs can be taken off. Disassembling shocks beyond that may void your warranty and cause you injury. The procedures and techniques are similar for all motorcycle shocks for all bikes including dirt bikes, sport bikes, touring models and cruisers. In a nutshell, you compress the shock absorber in a mechanical or hydraulic press and free the spring. In the United States, Progressive Suspension makes a mechanical press specifically to accomplish this job.

Instructions

1

Clean the shock absorber to be disassembled with solvent and rags.

2

Place the bottom of the shock absorber on a wooden block in the hydraulic or mechanical press. Ensure the shock is vertical and immobilize the shock.

3

Lower the ram of the mechanical or hydraulic press until it touches the top, or long eye, of the shock absorber. Slowly compress the top of the shock absorber and the shock spring until the shock absorber retainer ring and keeper plate separate.

4

Remove the retaining ring with a mechanics awl. Remove the pressure on the top of the shock and remove the shock from the press.

5

Separate the spring plate from the damper tube.

6

Line the jaws of a bench vise with rags. Clamp the long eye in the vise so the shock is upside down.

7

Loosen the long eye nut with an open-end wrench. Remove the long eye nut and the spring plate.

Windshield wiper blades are necessary in rainy weather. The process of changing a rear windshield wiper blade takes an average of 30 minutes and should be repeated annually along with replacing the front windshield wiper blades. If they are not replaced, they may fall off during use and scratch the entire windshield or not adequately clear the glass of obstructions.

Instructions

1

Lift the plastic cap off the rear wiper blade. Unscrew the 13 mm screws with the flat-head screwdriver. Lift the wiper arm off the windshield and the plastic cover underneath the arm. Unscrew the 22 mm screws and then take off the wiper off. Go inside the car and into the back seat.

2

Remove the rear windshield wiper panel and unplug the wiper motor. Unscrew the 10 mm screws. Remove the windshield wiper motor unit from the inside and then go outside and loosen the old blade from the wiper unit. Replace the old wiper blade with the new one.

3

Fasten the blade to the wiper on the outside and then go back into the car and fasten the windshield wiper motor unit and screw the unit back in place with the 10 mm screws. Go back outside the car and then screw in the 22 mm screws.

4

Put the wiper arm back into its original position so that the new blade is touching the rear-view window. Screw the 13 mm screws back into place and then put the plastic cap back on the rear windshield wiper. Check the wiper. Turn the car on and then start the rear windshield wiper.