Fix It

The crank position sensor in a General Motors Northstar engine is part of the sensing and diagnostic system that is controlled by the powertrain control module (PCM). The crank position sensor sends information to the PCM about the position of the crankshaft relative to the engine block. The PCM uses this information to determine when to actuate specific electronic components, such as the ignition. When the crank sensor fails, the engine will not start. Replacement sensors are available from Cadillac dealerships and local auto parts stores.

Instructions

1

Place the vehicles transmission in the park or "P" position. Shut down the engine and set the parking brake. Let the vehicle cool for at least 60 minutes before proceeding.

2

Open the hood and disconnect the negative battery lead using a battery terminal wrench.

3

Locate the crank position sensor on right side of the engine block, approximately three inches above the oil filter housing. It is made from black plastic and is connected to the engine with a 10 mm bolt.

4

Depress the locking tab on the sensors electrical connector and unplug the connector from the sensor. Remove the bolt holding the sensor to the engine, using a 3/8-inch ratchet and a 10 mm socket. Grip the sensor with a slip-joint pliers and gently remove it using a twisting/pulling motion.

5

Lubricate the new crank sensor with a small amount of clean engine oil. Install the new sensor into the engine block using a twisting/pushing motion. Reinstall the sensors retaining bolt and reattach its electrical connector.

6

Reconnect the negative battery lead. Start the engine and verify that it operates properly. The engine should start within three seconds of cranking and run smoothly.

Removing the EGR valve from the 2.8-liter diesel engine in a Jeep Liberty can be time-consuming. Fortunately, with a little effort and a lot of patience, you can do it yourself and save on an otherwise large repair bill. The EGR valve is located on the back of the engine, just below the intake manifold on the drivers side of the engine. The valve bolts in place with four 8-millimeter bolts that are hidden below the manifold, so you will not be able to see them.

Instructions

1

Open the hood of your Jeep and locate the negative battery cable on the battery. Loosen the pinch bolt with a wrench then lift the cable off the battery and set it aside.

2

Position a catch basin under the passengers side of the radiator and remove the petcock from the radiator tank, allowing the coolant to drain from the system. Once the coolant has stopped draining, replace the petcock.

3

Remove the bolts from the top of the engine cover on the engine, using a socket and ratchet. Lift the cover off the engine and set it aside.

4

Locate the EGR valve on the back of the engine near the drivers side head. Remove the clamps from the cooling lines on the EGR valve then pull the two coolant lines off the valve.

5

Remove the four 8-millimeter bolts from the EGR valve with a wrench then separate the valve from the engine block. A ratcheting wrench may be necessary to remove the 8-millimeter bolts.

Depending on what year and what motor you have in your GMC Sonoma will dictate the level of difficulty and the type of catalytic converter you need for replacement. Before the year 2000, the converter was connected to the exhaust system behind the front exhaust pipe in the popular 4.3 liter engine. In the year 2000, the catalytic converter became the front exhaust pipe which is much more challenging and difficult to remove and replace.

Instructions

How to Install a Catalytic Converter in a GMC Sonoma

1

Lift the GMC Sonoma all the up on the car lift. Load all the tools and the new converter into the tool cart/tray and wheel it over near you under the Sonoma, but out of your way. Put on the safety glasses.

2

Locate and remove the oxygen sensors. In the front Y-pipe converter application, there will be three oxygen sensors. In the older kind of Sonoma, there is only one oxygen sensor. Locate the plugs for the wire and unplug them using the flathead screwdriver to press in on the clip lock. Use the ratchet and oxygen sensor socket to remove the sensors. If need be, you may have to heat the pipe up a little with the torch to extract them. Allow them to cool down if you needed the torch.

3

Screw the oxygen sensor(s) into the new converter, but apply a light coat of anti-seize lubricant on the threads first. For the Y-pipe with three sensors, make sure to put the correct sensor into the correct port. Be caul not to overtighten to prevent stripping out the threads of the sensor(s).

4

Light the torch with the striker and heat up one nut on the manifold stud at a time (for the front Y-pipe converter). When the nut is cherry red, place the pneumatic gun, extension, swivel and socket onto it and remove the nut. If the converter is connected to the front pipe, cut the three nuts and bolts with the torch on both sides of the flange, then use the hammer and punch to knock the rest of the bolt out of the flange connection.

5

Cut the two or three nuts and bolts out of the rear flange connection on the converter using the torch. Cut the bolt on both sides of the flange and knock the rest of the bolt from the flange connection using the hammer and a punch. Be caul on the last bolt as the converter will separate from the exhaust system. Put on the gloves and remove the old converter.

6

Install the new catalytic converter starting with the inlet first (closest to the motor). Install the gasket(s) first and then thread on new manifold stud bolts for the Y-pipe converter or replace the nuts and bolts on the converter connected to the front pipe. Use a bolt head and washer on one side and a lock washer and nut on the other side of the flange.

7

Tighten the nuts on the manifold with the gun or tighten the nuts and bolts on the flange connection, using the gun on one side and holding the bolt steady with a hand wrench on the other.

8

Replace the gasket and hardware on the rear connection of the catalytic converter. Place the bolt head and flat washer on one side and the lock washer and nut on the other side of the flange connection. Tighten with the gun on the nut side and hold the bolt head with a hand wrench.

9

Plug the oxygen sensor wire(s) back into the plug(s).

10

Remove the tool cart and any other debris from under the Sonoma, lower the truck and start the engine up. Raise it back up and check for any possible exhaust leaks coming from the manifold, flange or oxygen sensor connections. Tighten as needed.

The mid-size Mazda 6 was in its second generation as of 2010, having grown a bit over the previous generation of the car. There are seven trim models, with the more top-of-the-line variations equipped with niceties like alloy wheels, Bluetooth connectivity and xenon headlights. Most Mazda 6 cars, though, will have halogen bulbs. Exercise caution when changing halogen bulbs, as they are easily damaged if scratched or dropped.

Instructions

High-Beam Headlight

1

Turn off the ignition and the headlights.

2

Open the hood and remove the bolts from the coolant reservoir. Using your wrench, turn the bolts counterclockwise to remove.

3

Disconnect the bulbs electrical connector. Press on the connector tab and pull downward to remove.

4

Turn the bulb socket counterclockwise to remove the bulb. Then insert a new halogen bulb, turning clockwise to install.

5

Re-install the coolant reservoir.

Low-Beam Headlights

6

Turn off the ignition and the headlights.

7

Move the steering wheel to the right if youre replacing the left-hand light and vice-versa.

8

Open the hood and remove the bulbs plastic container screws. Turn counterclockwise to remove the six screws.

9

Turn the bulb cover counterclockwise.

10

Detach the electrical connector of the bulb by pulling it to the rear.

11

Pull downward and away to remove the bulb from the spring.

12

Remove the adapter from the bulb and attach a new bulb onto the adapter.

13

Insert the bulb into the bulb socket, connecting the electrical connections.

14

Insert the bulb cover, fastening the screws clockwise.

A free flow exhaust is a type of system installed in vehicles for increased power and a sporty look. They are designed to remove engine emissions more efficiently than standard exhaust systems.

Purpose

Free flow exhaust systems are designed for looks and increased efficiency and power in vehicles. They are typically made of 100 percent stainless steel, which offers a nice sporty look. They weigh less than standard exhaust systems, which helps account for increased fuel economy and improvement in acceleration.

Process

Exhaust systems are used for removing spent gas from a vehicles engine; theore exhaust systems play a role in engine tuning and performance. A free flow system allows the spent gas to exit the vehicle more efficiently by changing the pipes used in the system and installing an intercooler between the engine and the exhaust.

Benefits

With a free flow exhaust system, a smoother removal of spent gas is offered. Because of this, vehicle owners notice an improvement in the overall way their vehicle runs. These systems promote better gas mileage and increased acceleration as well.

The flashers, also called blinkers or turn signals, as well as the hazard lights on the Ford F-150 pickup truck are all controlled by one simple relay module. If you have a front or rear flasher that isnt working, chances are you need to replace a simple five-pin relay module located on your steering column. The part costs very little, and replacing it will take just a few minutes of your time.

Instructions

1

Use a flat-head screwdriver to gently pry the clam-shell door open. The door is located under the instrument panel on the top of the steering column between the instrument panel and the steering wheel.

2

Remove the door and set it in a safe place.

3

Remove the blue five-pin relay from the column by pulling it gently from the plug.

4

Remove the screw from the top of the relay.

5

Replace the screw on the top of the relay.

6

Replace the relay with the new one (part number F65B-13350-AA). Plug the new relay in where you removed the old one.

7

Close the clam-shell door by lining it up and pressing down until it snaps in place.

The casting numbers on the block of a Ford engine help identify the specific engine. The numbers are often useful in mating cylinder heads, determining when and where the block was manufactured and into which mode of Ford it was installed. Locating the casting number is relatively easy if youre physically fit and have some dexterity. The casting number must be decoded to understand the information it contains.

Instructions

1

Angle your inspection mirror underneath the back side of the engine block, where the starter mounts to the engine. Depending on your physical size -- and the specific year, make and model of your Ford -- observation is possible from the top of the engine well. Another option is jack up the Ford up, support it on two jack stands and look for the numbers from beneath the vehicle.

2

Shine your flashlight on the inspection mirror. Illuminate the section of the block where Ford stamped the casting number. This is directly beside the starter mount, where the starter motor bolts to the engine.

3

Write down the casting number down with pen and paper.