Fix It

The Power Programmer III from Hypertech plugs into a vehicles diagnostic port and asks a series of engine specific yes or no questions. The Power Programmer then makes adjustments to engine settings to maximize performance.

Claims

According to the manufacturer, the Power Programmer III can add up to 120 horse power and 227 ft/lbs of torque to a diesel engine and 57 horse power 60 ft/lbs of torque to a gas engine.

Adjustments

The Power Programmer III can adjust or fine-tune an engines three-stage or duel-fuel tuning, engine rev limiter, cooling fan temperature, transmission shift points and firmness and top speed limiter. It can also make corrections to the speedometer and odometer.

Warnings & Cautions

The Power Programmer III requires a fully charged battery car battery to perform properly and the ignition must remain on. Caully read the manufacturers instructions for details. It is also important to note that the Power Programmer III does not work the same for all makes, models and engines.

Unsurprisingly, a voltmeter measures the voltage running through any object that has the ability to carry an electrical charge. Generally, voltmeters do not measure solely voltage but come as part of a multi-meter device that can be used to measure other aspects of electrical currents as well, including amps and ohms. If you need to know the voltage of a Delco alternator, you can use the voltmeter component of a multi-meter to take the measurement.

Instructions

1

Find the volt component of the multi-meter. Depending upon the multi-meter, the voltmeter component may have its own ports, or the meter may have one main input and a dial to choose the measurement that you want to take. If the multi-meter has separate ports for measuring volts, you can recognize them from the "V" that marks them. If the multi-meter has only one set of ports, turn the dial to the "V" setting to use the device as a voltmeter.

2

Plug the probes provided with the multi-meter into the appropriate ports. Test the probes by touching the tips together gently. The measurement on the multi-meter screen should not move from "0" or should move into the single digits at most. If it moves more than that, the fuse of the multi-meter is not working properly and should be replaced before testing.

3

Place the black probe of the multi-meter against the negative terminal of the Delco alternator. This terminal stays the same whether you have a negatively or positively charged alternator. It is the screw with the metal arm attached to it.

4

Touch the red probe to the positive terminal on the Delco alternator. In a negatively charged alternator, the positive terminal is the screw that does not have an insulating cover. In a positively charged alternator, the positive terminal is the red wire that stretches between two of the screws.

The original catalytic converter on the 1988 Chevy K2500 was a flat, broad, pellet-filled component. Chevy used this style converter until the mid 1990s. The bottom of the converter featured a fill plug that would often erode from exposure and leak the ceramic pellets out from inside the shell. While replacement plugs were available, most aftermarket companies replaced the converter with a canister-shaped direct-fit converter with an internal ceramic honeycombed substructure.

Instructions

1

Park the 1988 Chevy K2500 on a level surface, turn the engine off and apply the parking brake.

2

Put on the safety glasses and crawl under the passengers side of the vehicle (behind the front tire) with the shop light or a flashlight.

3

Follow the exhaust tubing on the passengers side to the engine connection. The front pipe of the K2500 features a Y-pipe connected to both the drivers side and the passengers side of the engine.

4

Follow the Y-pipe back to the next component behind it. It will either be a large, broad, flat component or a round canister with an external heat shield spot-welded to the outer shell. This component is the catalytic converter. Depending on the size of the wheel base of the K2500, behind the converter there may be a small to medium length connector pipe leading to the muffler and the tailpipe. The connector pipe routes over the rear axle and out toward the rear bumper, all on the passengers side.

If you notice that your steering wheel is loose and sloppy when you drive down the road, you may have a worn upper ball joint and upper control arm. Unlike the case with lower ball joints, which require specialty tools that are quite expensive, a home mechanic can replace the upper control arm and ball joint in part of an afternoon.

Instructions

1

Loosen the lug nuts on both of the front tires. Do this before attempting to lift the vehicle off the ground or the tire will spin as you try to loosen them.

2

Raise the vehicle off the ground enough to lift the tires off the ground and place jack stands under the vehicle. Finish removing the tires once the vehicle is secure.

3

Remove the cotter pin from the upper ball joint using a needlenose pliers. You do not need to save the cotter pin; you will use a new one for installation.

4

Use the appropriate wrench to remove the castle nut at the top of the ball joint. Turn the wrench counterclockwise to remove the nut from the ball joint.

5

Separate the ball joint from the steering knuckle using a two-jawed puller and remove the upper control arm from the vehicle.

6

Install the new upper control arm assembly into the strut tower and connect the upper ball joint into the steering knuckle.

7

Install the tires onto the front of the vehicle and lower the vehicle to the ground.

8

Torque the nuts on the control arm and front wheels once the car is lowered to the ground. Torque the upper control arm to 47 foot-pounds. Next, tighten the castle nut to 32 foot-pounds and then tighten it enough beyond that point to install the new cotter pin. All of the wheel nuts should be tightened to 80 foot-pounds of pressure.

The crankshaft position sensor -- also known as the CKP sensor --detects crankshaft position and rotation on the 2005 PT Cruiser. The sensor relays this information to the electronic control unit and helps determine ignition and fuel injection timing. Wear or damage to the crankshaft position sensor can lead to poor performance or even a non-running condition. The sensor is above the front motor mount so some disassembly is required to replace it.

Instructions

1

Set the parking brake and chock the rear wheels. Turn the ignition switch to the Off position.

2

Jack the front of the vehicle up. Support the vehicle using jack stands.

3

Locate the sensor on the front of the engine just below the starter. Locate the bending strut and structural collar just below the sensor.

4

Remove the five mounting bolts from the strut, using a ratchet and socket. Remove the strut from the engine. Remove the three remaining bolts from the collar, using a ratchet and socket. Move the power steering hose aside and then remove the collar from the engine.

5

Lift up on the locking tab on the sensor electrical connector. Unplug the electrical connector from the sensor.

6

Wipe the surrounding area using a clean rag to remove any dirt or debris that may find its way into the sensor hole.

7

Remove the sensor retaining bolt, using a ratchet and socket. Pull the sensor out of its hole.

8

Lubricate the O-ring on the new sensor with clean engine oil. Insert the new sensor in the hole and push it in with a slight twisting motion. Align the sensor mount with the bolt hole and install the retaining bolt. Tighten the bolt to 80 inch-pounds, using an inch-pound torque wrench and socket.

9

Install the electrical connector onto the sensor terminal. Ensure that the terminal lock snaps into position.

10

Hold the collar in its position between the transmission and the engine oil pan. Move the power steering hose into position below the collar. Install the collar-to-oil pan bolt through the forward hose support and collar bolt hole and then tighten it finger tight.

11

Place the bending strut in its position and start the upper strut-to-transaxle bolt. Do not tighten the bolt at this time.

12

Insert the lower strut-to-transaxle bolt through the strut and collar and start it. Do not tighten the bolt at this time.

13

Install the strut-to-block bolt on the passenger side corner of the strut and then tighten it finger tight.

14

Insert the collar-to-oil pan bolt through the rear power steering hose support and rear collar hole and then tighten it finger tight.

15

Tighten the three collar-to-transaxle bolts to 75 foot-pounds, using a foot-pound torque wrench and socket.

16

Install the remaining two strut-to-engine block bolts. Tighten the remaining five bolts to 45 foot-pounds, using a foot-pound torque wrench and socket.

17

Remove the jack stands and lower the vehicle using a jack.

If your Saturn is experiencing failing fuel injectors, you may want to consider using a better quality gasoline. Symptoms of faulty fuel injectors include jerking movements while driving and loud knocking sounds upon acceleration. You will need to know how to properly relieve the fuel systems pressure before performing this repair procedure. Unless otherwise noted, some steps do not require tools.

Instructions

Removing the Fuel Rail and Fuel Injectors

1

Relieve the fuel system pressure by removing the fuel cap.

2

Disconnect the negative cable from the battery with a wrench.

3

Remove the vacuum hose from the fuel pressure regulator on the fuel rail. Unbolt the two mounting bolts with a socket wrench then remove the regulator.

4

Disconnect the air intake duct by detaching the connector from the intake air temperature sensor then removing the PCV hose from the duct. Unscrew and remove the hose clamps with a flat head screwdriver at both ends of the duct.

5

Remove the EVAP canister purge hose and loosen the clamp for the coolant hose from the hose guide. Remove the hose guide and separate the PCV hose from the valve cover. Set aside the hoses.

6

Unscrew and remove the two nuts from the fuel rail mounting studs with the socket wrench. Remove the engine wiring harness cover from the valve cover and push it aside.

7

Remove the fuel supply and return lines from the fuel rail by unscrewing the two line fittings with an open-end wrench. Take out the O-rings in the holes and discard them.

8

Unplug the connectors from the fuel injectors by pulling on their locks.

9

Unscrew and remove the two fuel rail mounting nuts with the socket wrench.

10

Pull out the fuel rail/injector assembly.

11

Free the injector retainers from the small lugs on both sides with a flat head screwdriver. Pull each injector out.

Installing the New Fuel Injectors

12

Install the new fuel injectors and secure them onto the fuel rail by fastening the retainers back onto the side lugs.

13

Lubricate the O-rings on each end of the injectors with clean engine oil. Insert the fuel rail/injector assembly back into the intake manifold.

14

Install the fuel rail mounting nuts and torque them to 89 inch-pounds with a torque wrench.

15

Reconnect each electrical connector to the fuel injectors. Check to make sure they are securely locked on by slightly wiggling them.

16

Insert the new O-rings into the fuel line holes. Install the supply and return fuel lines onto the fuel rail and tightly screw on their fittings with the open-end wrench.

17

Position the engine wiring harness cover onto the valve cover. Tighten the mounting nuts over the studs with the socket wrench.

18

Follow Steps 4 and 5 in Section 1 to reconnect the EVAP and PCV hoses and the air duct.

19

Install the fuel pressure regulator onto the fuel rail and tighten its two mounting bolts with the socket wrench. Reattach the vacuum hose to the regulator.

20

Reconnect the negative cable onto the battery with the wrench. Replace the fuel cap.

21

Start your Saturn and check for any fuel leaks.

The rear bumper of the Ford Escort is attached with a series of bolts and screws located in the rear fender wells, inside the luggage compartment and underneath the back of the vehicle. You may need to remove the bumper because of damage or because you want to replace the bumper with a different style that fits your needs, such as a tow bar or bumper hitch.

Instructions

1

Unfasten the five screws on the inside lip of both rear fender wells in the back that are securing the rear bumper of the Escort, using a screwdriver. The rear fender well is the void area where the rear tire sits, on the back side of the car.

2

Open the rear hatch and unfasten the plastic pushpins that attach the luggage compartment rear cover to the vehicle frame by prying them off with a screwdriver. Remove the rear cover from the luggage compartment by hand. The luggage compartment of the Ford Escort is that area behind the rear seats that is used for storage instead of a trunk.

3

Locate the three bolts on both sides of the inside back panel of the luggage compartment that secure the rear bumper to the vehicle frame. Unfasten the nuts on the bolts with a socket wrench.

4

Unfasten the two nuts -- one on each side of the bumper -- underneath the rear of the vehicle that secure the rear bumper to the frame, using a socket wrench.

5

Lift the rear bumper off the frame and remove it from the Escort.

Replacing the key cylinder on the steering column of your Jeep Wrangler may be necessary if damage has occurred to the tumblers or pins inside the cylinder. A replacement cylinder is available from the Jeep dealer and can be keyed to use your existing key for a fee. The cylinder can be swapped quickly and does not require a bunch of specials tools to complete.

Instructions

1

Sit in the drivers seat of your Jeep and insert the ignition key into the cylinder. Locate the hole in the bottom panel of the steering column directly below the cylinder.

2

Insert a small screwdriver or punch into the hole in the column and push the pin inside the hole up. Turn the key and cylinder to the "On" position then pull the cylinder straight out of the column. Remove the screwdriver or punch from the hole under the column.

3

Turn the key to the "Off" position then withdraw the key from the cylinder. Insert the key into the new cylinder and turn the key to the "On "position on the new cylinder.

4

Insert the cylinder and key into the column the rotate the key to the "OFF" position. Withdraw the key from the cylinder.

The outer tie rods ends on the 1995 Honda Accord connect the steering system to the integral knuckles of the front wheels. Wear and tear on the ball sockets of the outer tie rods will eventually weaken them, causing them to become loose. This symptom will give a slight to major back-and-forth movement of the tire and compromise the tire wear and the steering of the vehicle. While replacing the outer tie rod is not overly difficult, the car should have a front-end alignment after any major steering component has been replaced.

Instructions

1

Apply the parking brake and loosen the lug nuts on the wheel one-half turn counterclockwise, using the breaker bar and a 19 mm wrench.

2

Hoist the vehicle up with the car jack and support the Accord onto a jack stand. Remove the lug nuts and wheel.

3

Remove the cotter pin from the ball shaft of the outer tie rod with a pair of cutting dikes or a set of needle-nose pliers.

4

Make a mark on the threads of the inner tie rod with a permanent marker where the outer tie rod lock nut ends. This mark will keep the front-end alignment close to its original position until an alignment can be performed on the vehicle.

5

Hold the base of the outer tie rod with one wrench and turn the lock nut on the threaded shaft of the inner tie rod counterclockwise just enough to break it free.

6

Loosen the castle nut from the ball shaft of the tie rod end, at the knuckle, using the breaker bar and metric socket. Loosen the nut until it covers the top threads of the ball shaft.

7

Strike the castle nut on the ball shaft with a hammer until the ball socket of the tie rod separates from the integral knuckle. Remove the castle nut and allow the outer tie rod to drop down from the knuckle.

8

Unscrew the outer tie rod from the threads of the inner tie rod and then unscrew the lock nut from the inner tie rod.

9

Thread the new lock nut, supplied with the replacement outer tie rod, onto the threads of the inner tie rod up to the permanent marker mark. Thread the replacement outer tie rod onto the inner tie rod up to the lock nut, but align the outer tie rod so the ball shaft is standing in an upward position.

10

Place the ball shaft of the tie rod through the integral knuckle. The ball shaft of the replacement tie rod will be stiff and hard to move by hand. If necessary, place the old castle nut on the threads of the new tie rod ball shaft and gently tap it to manipulate its angle until it aligns to the hole of the knuckle. Remove and discard the old castle nut.

11

Thread the replacement castle nut, supplied with the replacement outer tie rod, onto the threads of the ball shaft and tighten with the breaker bar and a metric socket. Tighten the nut securely and align the notches of the castle nut to the pre-drilled hole in the top of the ball shaft.

12

Insert the replacement cotter pin, supplied with the replacement outer tie rod, through the ball shaft hole and notches of the castle nut. Bend the ends of the cotter pin over the top of the nut and ball shaft with the cutting dikes or needle-nose pliers.

13

Tighten the lock nut on the inner tie rod threads to the base of the outer tie rod, using the two metric wrenches---one to hold the base of the outer tie rod and the other to tighten the nut to the base.

14

Replace the wheel and lug nuts. Snug the lug nuts tightly to the knuckle and then lower the Accord to the ground.

15

Tighten the lug nuts in a crisscross pattern, using the torque ratchet set at 80 foot-pounds and a 19 mm socket.

Found in virtually all moving mechanisms, bearings are hardly given a thought until something starts to grind -- or falls apart. Unlike caged or roller bearings, which are enclosed in a casing, loose ball bearings float freely between metal cups, or "races." Most are commonly found in older applications, loose bearings are used to maintain proper tolerances between two or more moving pieces of a rotating part, such as steering mechanisms or wheels. Since they are not secured inside a housing, loose bearings must be inserted one at a time.

Instructions

1

Apply a generous coat of bearing grease to both sides of the bottom bearing race by using your fingers. Insert the race into position, with the ridges on the grooves facing outward. If the tolerances are so close the race will not slide in place freely, tap the race into position with a wooden dowel, of the same diameter as the race, by tapping it with a rubber mallet. Check to ensure the race is seated evenly around the entire circumference of the installation point.

2

Grease one ball bearing at a time and place each one in the groove of the race by using your fingers. Insert the bearing by using a pair of forceps or tweezers if the area is too small to reach with your fingers. Set the bottom bearing in place first, if working with a vertical surface. Stack the bearings up along each side of the race, and alternate placing bearings along the left and right sides of the race.

3

Coat the top race with grease and insert the race with its grooves facing inward, creating a channel for the bearings between the two races.

4

Place the cover plate over the outside race. Some plates will screw onto a threaded rod whereas others will free-float over the race; not all applications have cover plates. Tighten the locknut in place with a wrench.

Acetone is a multi-use solvent that is generally considered safe for humans to use. The chemical is incorporated into paint supplies and cleaners used in the auto body painting and repair industry. Compounds used at every stage of the painting and cleaning process contain at least small amounts of acetone.

Cleaning Solution

Acetone is used in cleaning solutions applied to spray guns used in auto body work. The solvent is able to break down the harsh and potentially toxic chemicals used in auto body paints. Certain states, like California, are attempting to move away from sprays and solvents containing highly volatile organic compounds. According to a 2008 study prepared for the Cal/EPAs Toxic Substances Control, the best alternative cleaning solutions included a blend of glycol and acetone.

Finishing Solution

Finishing solutions are applied to auto body paint jobs to seal the paint and keep it from flaking or cracking due to weather or temperature conditions. These compounds typically contain acetone as an active ingredient that goes on clear so the cars paint job isnt obscured. In fact, acetone sealers usually add shine to the paint. The chemical is also used in window tints.

Paint Thinner

Auto body paints are combined with acetone to thin them. This allows the paint to apply evenly to the surface without pooling too much, which can affect drying times. The chemical dissolves when the paint is heated, leaving an even coat of paint. Acetone is also used as a pre-paint cleaner to remove any grit or surface grease on auto body parts that could affect the painting process and create dimples or raised areas.

The first Dodge Rams rolled out of the factory in 1981, and Dodge has continued to improve and redesign its heavy-duty pickup truck ever since. Dodge introduced the current generation of Rams in 2009. The 2010 Ram was available in several two-wheel-drive and four-wheel-drive trims in the 1500, 2500, 3500, 4500 and 5500 weight classes. However, the toe-in specs were the same for all trims of the Ram 1500. Likewise, all other trims of the 2010 Dodge Ram shared the same toe-in specs.

Toe

The toe of a wheel ers to the angle of the wheel in relation to the vehicles centerline. If the front of a wheel is angled inward toward the centerline, then the wheel has toe-in. If the front of a wheel angles outward away from the centerline, then the vehicle has toe-out. Most vehicles are designed for the wheels to toe in slightly. Toe is the most important alignment spec in terms of tire wear. If a wheel has the toe misaligned by just a fraction of a degree, it can significantly reduce the life of a tire. The toe is adjustable on the front ends of all trims of the 2010 Dodge Ram. It is not adjustable on the rear because the Rams come with a fixed rear axle. The specs provided below apply only to the 2010 Dodge Ram and should not be used on other model years, because alignment specs can change from year to year.

The 2010 Ram 1500

The same toe-in specs apply to all two-wheel-drive and four-wheel-drive trims of the 2010 Dodge Ram 1500, regardless of whether the truck came with 17-inch tires or 20-inch tires. The ideal toe-in setting is +0.1 degrees but it can vary by 0.36 degrees in either direction.

All Other Trims and Models of the 2010 Ram

All other trims of the 2010 Dodge Ram, including the Ram 2500, the Ram 3500, the Ram 3500 Heavy Duty Chassis-Cab, the Ram 4500 Heavy Duty Chassis-Cab and the Ram 5500 Heavy Duty Chassis Cab, came with the same toe-in specs. The specs were the same for Box Off and standard trims. The ideal setting for the toe-in is +0.2 degrees but it can range by 0.1 degree in either direction.

An FXST is a kind of Harley-Davidson motorcycle. F means "big engine motorcycle" and X indicates "sport." The original FX in 1971 was assembled from F and X parts. "ST" stands for "Softail," which is a suspension system without visible shock absorbers. This bike was manufactured before 2007 because starting in that year all new Harleys came equipped with fuel injection. The carburetor, or carb, is a constant-velocity Keihin carb and it is easily replaced in one lazy afternoon.

Instructions

1

Put the motorcycle in neutral and ensure the petcock is closed. Start and run the motorcycle until it coughs to a stop. Attempt to restart the motorcycle to ensure that the carburetor is completely out of gasoline.

2

Reach under the fuel tank, just in front of your left knee, and unclip the enrichener knob. Let the knob and cable hang free.

3

Loosen the air cleaner cover bolts. The air cleaner is between the cylinders and the original cleaner is either round or elliptical depending on the year of your FXST. Remove the bolts using either a Torx or Allen socket, depending on the year of your bike and whether you have already replaced this cover, and a socket wrench.

4

Pull out the two breather tubes that plug into the body of your air cleaner and let them hang free.

5

Unbolt and remove the air cleaner, which contains a metal or paper filter, using either a Torx or an Allen socket and a socket wrench.

6

Loosen the fuel line hose clamp with a flat-head screwdriver and pull this tube from the body of the carburetor.

7

Follow both throttle cables from the throttle to the carburetor throttle cam. Mark the front and back cables with masking tape and a pen, then unscrew and disconnect both cables. Let those cables hang free.

8

Unbolt and remove the air cleaner backing plate with an Allen socket and a socket wrench.

9

Rock the carburetor from side to side and pull it out of the black, rubber boot that connects the carburetor to the intake manifold. Gently pull the enrichener assembly through the engine and remove the carburetor and enrichener assembly as a unit.

10

Unscrew and remove the enrichener cable from the back of the old carburetor. Screw the enrichener cable assembly into the same location on the back of the replacement carburetor. Hand-tighten the plastic cable sealing cap.

11

Snake the enrichener knob and cable through the engine under the fuel tank. Seat the new carburetor in the intake manifold boot.

12

Replace the air cleaner backing plate with an Allen socket and socket wrench. This is the plate that actually holds the carb to the engine.

13

Replace both throttle cables on the throttle cam exactly as they were when you started. Remove the masking tape.

14

Replace the air cleaner and the air cleaner cover using either a Torx or an Allen socket and a socket wrench. Re-secure the enrichener knob into the clip on the left side of the motorcycle.

15

Replace the breather tubes. Start the bike to ensure it runs before replacing the air cleaner cover.

16

Replace the air cleaner cover using a Torx or Allen socket and socket wrench.

Bellhousings are protective covers located on the engine-side of the transmission case. Stock bellhousings are comprised of aluminum or an aluminum alloy, making them susceptible to damage from impact. Steel bellhousings have a higher tensile strength and are theore stronger than aluminum counterparts. Steel bellhousings are considered crack, chip and shatter resistant, which help reduce the chance of expensive transmission repairs and injury if the transmission fails. The installation of a steel bellhousing also adds additional protection against impact during transmission servicing and from flying road debris.

Instructions

1

Lift the car using a floor jack and place it on jack stands positioned directly under the axles. Leave the floor jack in place under the front axle for safety should the jack stands fail. Place one additional jack stand under the engine for support.

2

Drain the transmission fluid by removing the drain bolt under the transmission with a socket set. For automatic transmissions, remove the transmission pan bolts and drop the pan. Catch the oil in a drain pan and dispose of it at an auto parts store.

3

Remove the transmissions gear shifter linkages. Start by pulling the trim ring off around the shifter using a screwdriver, then disconnect the linkage. If the shifter is on the steering column, remove the linkage from the underside of the car Place any snap rings and bolts in a plastic bag and label it for easy reinstallation.

4

Disconnect the drive shaft linkages located at the differential and slide the drive shaft off the transmission. For front wheel drive transmissions, remove the CV axle linkages at the wheel hubs and slide them out of the transmission.

5

Unbolt the transmission mount and engine attachment bolts using a socket set. Place a transmission jack under the transmission before removing the last two bolts. Remove the dust shield and slave cylinder. For automatic transmissions, remove the torque converter-to-flexplate bolts.

6

Unclip sensors and wiring harness connections to the transmission. Use colored tape to label each wire and the transmission connector it clips into. Ensure no damage occurs to the wiring and repair previously damaged wiring immediately.

7

Lower the transmission, remove the release arm and pilot bushing and unbolt the bellhousing from the transmission, removing any input shaft linkages between the transmission and bellhousing. For automatic transmissions, remove the torque converter. Unbolt the bellhousing from the transmission using a socket set.

8

Attach the new bellhousing to the engine and check for alignment using a dial-indicator and make corrections specified by the bellhousing manufacturer. Once alignment is verified, attach the bell housing to the transmission and bolt it on. Reattach the torque converter or pilot bearing and release arm.

9

Lift the transmission into place in the engine bay, reinstall the dust shield and bolt the transmission to the engine using a socket set. Install the transmission wiring and sensors, and reconnect the torque converter bolts or slave cylinder. Reconnect the drive shaft or CV axles, replace the drain bolt or transmission pan, fill the transmission with fluid and reattach the shift linkage and trim ring to complete the steel bellhousing installation.

Although the 2010 Hummer H3 received a five-star rating for driver safety from the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA), minor manufacturing problems in older models have led to a few recalls by General Motors. The most recent recall, over hood louvers that could detach, affects 2006-2010 Hummer H3s. Registered vehicle owners should have received notice of recalls from the manufacturer.

Hood Louver

General Motors recalled 162,129 model year 2006-2010 Hummer H3 vehicles in April 2010 for a manufacturing defect that could cause the hood louver to detach. If the louver comes loose from the hood when the vehicle is in motion, it could cause a traffic accident or injury.

Air Bags

In November 2006, General Motors recalled select 2006 model year Hummer H3 vehicles for an airbag sensor problem on the passenger side. This recall affected fewer than 800 vehicles in which aftermarket leather seat covers were installed. The seat covers could interfere with the air bag sensors, potentially causing the air bags to malfunction or not deploy in the event of a crash.

Tires and Loading

More than 30,000 General Motors vehicles, including certain model year 2006 Hummer H3s, were recalled for misprints in equipment labeling that could compromise the safety of drivers and passengers. Tire and loading information labels on these Hummers contained errors that could cause the vehicles to be overloaded or tires to be improperly inflated.

The Acura brand is manufactured by Honda and was introduced in 1986. If your Acura is malfunctioning, it needs servicing or repair. Attending to any problems with your Acura will prolong the life of your car.

Instructions

1

Change a dysfunctional or dead battery on your Acura. Turn off the engine. Prop open the hood. Disconnect both battery cables, the negative cable first. Detach the clamp that fastens the battery in place. Remove the old battery. Place it on the ground beside you. Insert the new battery into the battery tray. Refasten the clamp that holds the battery in place. Clean the battery cables. Put some petroleum jelly on the ends of the cable. Reconnect the battery cables, the positive cable first. Tighten the connections using the wrench. Close the hood. Start the engine. Let the engine run for at least ten minutes.

2

Replace any blown fuses on your Acura. Turn off the engine. Prop open the hood. The fuse panel is located directly in front of the steering column. Remove the cover. The blown fuse will be blackened. Remove the fuse with your fingers. Replace the fuse with a new fuse of equal amperage. Pop the new fuse into the old slot. It should go in quite easily. Start the engine to make sure any electrical issues caused by the blown fuse have now been remedied. Replace the cover. Close the hood.

3

Go to a website that provides repair estimates such as Repairpal. Select "Acura" from the "Select Car Make" drop-down menu. Click "Get an Estimate." Enter the year and model of your Acura using the drop boxes. Click "Select Service Type." A list of service and repair issues and tasks will open. Choose the option that best relates to your car. Enter your zip code. Click "Get an Estimate." Review your results. This includes a price estimate and information related to the problem, including misdiagnoses, symptoms and background information. A list of independent auto shops and dealerships in your area will also appear on the page.

4

Contact an auto shop in your area. Give a description of your Acuras status that is as specific as possible based on your research. Make an appointment and bring your car in for repair.

The Eldorado was a line of luxury cars made by Cadillac from 1953 to 2002. The 1994 model is an eighth generation Eldorado, which includes the 1992 through 2002 models. This vehicle has an oil pump that circulates oil throughout the engine to provide lubrication to the moving parts. The only engine choice for a 1994 Cadillac Eldorado is an 8-cylinder 4.6-liter Northstar engine. The oil pump for this engine is attached to the front of the crankcase, and is accessible from the engine compartment.

Instructions

1

Allow the vehicle to sit overnight without running to ensure the engine is cold. Hot oil can cause severe burns.

2

Remove the screws that attach the front cover of the oil pump to the front of the engine with a socket wrench. Disconnect the front cover from the engine.

3

Loosen the three bolts that connect the oil pump to the engine with a socket wrench. Remove the oil pump and its spacer from the engine.

4

Mount the oil pump spacer to the new oil pump. Fasten the new oil pump to the engine with the three mounting bolts. Tighten the mounting bolts with a socket wrench.

5

Connect the front cover for the oil pump to the engine with the retaining screws. Tighten the screws with a socket wrench. Start the engine and check for oil leaks.

Replacing glow plugs in the Jeep Libertys 2.8-liter diesel engine is similar to changing spark plugs except there is no firing order to worry about. The glow plugs thread into the cylinder head just below the intake manifold on your Liberty and have a single wire connected to the top, providing seven volts of electricity to the plug. The plug heats up the cylinders on your diesel engine to allow faster start-ups when the engine is cold.

Instructions

1

Open the hood of your Liberty and locate the negative battery cable on the top of the battery. The battery sits on the drivers side of the engine compartment, right behind the drivers-side headlight assembly. Loosen the clamp bolt on the cable end with a wrench and remove the cable from the battery, isolating it from the terminals while you are working.

2

Locate the glow plug in question on the side of the cylinder head. The cylinder head is at the top of the engine assembly, running front to back along the engine block. Grasp the wire at the top of the glow plug at the boot and pull it straight off the plug. Lay the wire aside.

3

Place a socket over the glow plug, attach a ratchet, and turn the plug counterclockwise. Pull the plug out of the cylinder and discard it.

4

Caully insert the new glow plug in the cylinder head. Tighten the glow plug to 110 inch-pounds with a torque wrench. Snap the wiring harness connector onto the top of the glow plug. Repeat the process for the remaining glow plugs until you have replaced all that are defective.

5

Install the negative battery cable on the negative battery terminal. Tighten the clamp bolt with a wrench, making sure it is secure. Do not over-tighten it or you may damage the cable end or terminal. Close the hood of your Jeep.

Replacing the fuel/water separator on the 2.8-liter diesel engine in your Jeep Liberty is not something that you need to do regularly, but when the time comes, a new separator assembly is available from the Jeep dealer. The fuel/water separator is important, as it works to remove moisture and sediment from the diesel fuel before it enters the fuel rails and engine. Water can damage the engine and cause it to run poorly or not at all.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the negative cable from the battery, using a wrench to remove the retaining bolt. Isolate the negative cable from the battery while you work.

2

Locate the fuel/water separator on the firewall of your Liberty. It is to the left of the engine, directly in front of the driver. Locate the two electrical connections on the front of the separator. Depress the locking tab on the connectors and remove them from the separator body. Lay the wiring connections aside.

3

Remove the hose clamp on the large fuel line at the front of the separator using a flat-head screwdriver. Pull the hose off the fitting and push it aside. Locate the second fuel line on the passengers side of the separator. Remove the hose clamp from the line with a flat-head screwdriver and pull it off the fitting.

4

Remove the two bolts that secure the separator to the firewall of the Jeep, using a socket and ratchet. Pull the assembly off the firewall. Position the new separator on the firewall and install the retaining bolts. Tighten the bolts to 63 in.-lbs. with a torque wrench.

5

Connect both fuel lines to the fittings on the new separator. Attach the hose clamps and tighten them with a flat-head screwdriver. Do not overtighten them or you will damage the rubber hose and it will fail prematurely.

6

Attach the wiring harness connectors to the front of the assembly. They are different so you cannot plug them in wrong. Push the connectors in until they snap into place.

7

Reconnect the negative cable to the battery. Reattach the retaining bolt and tighten it with a wrench.

The Civic SI is a small sports coupe introduced by Honda in 2003. This stylish addition to the Civic line of vehicles came with optional fog lights. One of the joys of owning a sports car is being able to customize it with your own personal touches. If you are a car repair novice, but still want to experiment, a good project is to install new or upgraded aftermarket fog lights. This do-it-yourself undertaking requires nothing more than some basic tools and a fog light kit.

Instructions

1

Park the vehicle on a flat and level surface, turn off the engine and engage the emergency brake.

2

Feel the top of the hood. If it is still hot wait about 20 minutes before beginning the installation.

3

Place a blanket on the ground beneath the front end. Lie on the blanket and slide under the car so that you can see the back of the bumper where one of the fog lights is attached. Locate the wiring harness plugged into the rear of the fog light socket. Squeeze the sides of the harness plug and pull it free.

4

Use an adjustable wrench to remove the three mounting bolts securing the fog light assembly to the front bumper. Slide the assembly out of the bumper.

5

Insert the new fog light and secure it with the bolts that came with the kit. Connect the wiring harness with the socket. Move to the other side of the vehicle and repeat the process to install the other fog light.

Aluminum is not as hard as steel. Compared to steel, aluminum alloy is much less susceptible to rust; however, it is sensitive to chemical reactions. It may form a light coating of corrosion caused by oxidation following the use of harsh degreasers. This results in the need for arduous polishing of engine parts. To prevent this, a detailer should use a mixture of water and a soap degreaser in place of chemical solvents when cleaning aluminum alloy motors.

Instructions

Clean the Motor

1

Fill the spray bottle with soap degreaser and water per the product directions.

2

Run the engine for about 30 seconds. It should be slightly warm.

3

Spray the water and degreaser mixture onto the motor, engine components and underside of the hood. Wait one to two minutes to allow the soap degreaser to soak in.

4

Use the pressure washer to spray the underside of the hood, motor and motor components. Avoid spraying water directly on electrical components.

5

Spray soap degreaser on any remaining dirty spots. Scrub stubborn grime with the toothbrush.

6

Rinse the engine with the water hose.

7

Dry the motor, wires and other components with shop towels or rags. Finish drying by starting the motor.

The Accord is a mid-size car manufactured by Honda since 1976 and is still in production as of 2010. The 1990 model has a four-cylinder, 2.2L engine with electronic fuel injection. This requires the fuel pump to deliver fuel to the injectors under high pressure. The fuel pump in the 1990 Honda Accord attaches directly to the fuel tank, so you must disconnect the fuel tank to replace the fuel pump.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the cable to the negative terminal of the battery with a socket wrench, and loosen the filler cap for the fuel tank. Locate the fuel pressure release valve on the fuel rail. Hold the banjo bolt for the release valve with a 6 mm closed wrench. Wrap a shop rag around the service bolt on top of the banjo bolt. Loosen the service bolt by one complete turn with an open-end wrench to relieve the pressure in the fuel system. Tighten the service bolt to 9 foot-pounds with a torque wrench.

2

Block the front wheels and raise the rear of the vehicle on jack stands. Loosen the drain bolt of the fuel tank and drain the fuel into a container approved for gasoline. Slide the clamps on the fuel hoses back and disconnect the fuel hoses from the fuel tank. Support the fuel tank with a floor jack and remove the nuts on the fuel tank retaining straps with a socket wrench. Lower the floor jack and remove the fuel tank from the vehicle. Disconnect the mounting bolts for the fuel pump with a socket wrench and remove the fuel pump from the fuel tank.

3

Install the new fuel pump onto the fuel tank ensuring that you seat it into its proper position. Tighten the mounting bolts evenly to a torque of 48 inch-pounds with a torque wrench. Connect the fuel tank and tighten the nuts on the restraining strap to 27 foot-pounds with a torque wrench.

4

Remove the service bolt on the fuel pressure regulator on the fuel rail. Disconnect the hose from the fuel pressure regulator and plug the open end of the hose. Attach a fuel pressure gauge to the pressure regulator.

5

Start the engine and note the reading on the fuel pressure gauge while the engine is idling. The fuel pressure in a 1990 Honda Accord should be in the range of 36 to 41 psi. Check for a clogged or pinched fuel return hose if the pressure is too high. Look for leaks in the fuel line, a faulty pressure regulator or a clogged fuel filter if the pressure is too low.

6

Wrap a shop rag around the fitting for the pressure gauge. Loosen the fitting slowly, until you can remove the pressure gauge. Place new washers on the service bolt and tighten it to 9 foot-pounds with a torque wrench.

The Ford Ranger is a compact pickup truck manufactured by the Ford Motor Company since 1983. The 1991 model has a choice of several engines, including a four-cylinder, 2.3-liter engine. The oil pump circulates oil through the engine to keep it lubricated. The oil pump in a 1991 Ford Ranger with a 2.3-liter engine is on the front of the engine and is driven by the timing belt.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the cable from the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench to prevent you from starting the engine inadvertently. Remove the timing belt from its pulley and detach the electrical connector for the camshaft position sensor on the camshaft.

2

Insert a pry bar through the hole in the oil pump sprocket to prevent it from turning. Remove the mounting bolt for the oil pump sprocket with a socket wrench and disconnect the sprocket.

3

Remove the mounting bolt for the camshaft position sensor with the socket wrench and disconnect the sensor. Remove the four mounting bolts for the oil pump and detach the oil pump from the front of the engine. Discard the gasket for the oil pump.

4

Clean the mating surfaces on the oil pump gasket with a shop rag and lubricate the new gasket with clean engine oil. Install the new oil pump and gasket and torque the mounting bolts for the oil pump to between 90 and 123 inch-pounds with a torque wrench.

5

Attach the camshaft position sensor and torque its mounting bolts to between 45 and 61 inch-pounds with the torque wrench. Install the oil pump sprocket and tighten its mounting bolts to between 30 and 40 foot-pounds.

6

Connect the electrical connector for the camshaft position sensor and install the timing belt. Reattach the cable to the negative battery terminal with the socket wrench. Add 8 ounces of engine oil to prime the oil pump.

The Toyota Tacoma is a truck designed to work well with hauling trailers. Like any vehicle on the road, the truck and the trailer must have proper tail light illumination for overall safety, but there can be electrical problems.

Function

A trailer, attached to a Toyota Tacoma, uses a wiring harness converter box for its extra electrical needs. Without this power supply, the Tacoma could possibly have electrical failure from the power surge load.

Considerations

For model years 1999 to 2000, the Toyota Tacoma had a recall of its converter box. With its improper sealing, the box was susceptible to water infiltration, causing an electrical short and no power to the trailer lighting system. Toyota replaced the box and rearranged its placement on the vehicle to prevent excess water exposure.

Significance

Make sure that the lighting system is properly grounded to the frame of the Tacoma. Without a secure ground, the lighting system can malfunction by surging when both the vehicle and trailer have their brakes applied.

Boating has become a popular pastime for many people. With the use of boats as a holiday, correct maintenance of the boat trailer is needed to ensure continual transportation. With the interaction with salt water, brakes on the trailer can become damaged. Contamination of the brake fluid will cause the brakes to not perform to the required standard. If this occurs, you must bleed your brakes, and replace the fluid to ensure they work correctly. This process should be carried out on a regular basis.

Instructions

1

Fill the master cylinder with new brake fluid.

2

Insert a bleeder hose on the bleeder screw of the wheel cylinder of the furthest brake away from the master cylinder. Place the other end of the hose into a glass container of brake fluid.

3

Loosen the brake bleeder screw. Have a helper depress the rod assembly with a slotted screwdriver. This will apply force to the front of the coupler case assembly, forcing out brake fluid and any air bubbles in it. Look for bubbles in the fluid in the glass container.

4

Remove the hose and securely tighten the bleeder screw. Repeat the process on all of the brakes. Make sure the master cylinder does not get less than half full.

5

Refill the master cylinder with brake fluid once the process is complete. Check that the brakes on your boat trailer are working correctly before continual use.

A faulty drain cock or petcock on a 2007 Jeep Liberty could result in a radiator leak, an overheated engine and costly repairs. The petcock is a small valve located on the lower left side of the radiator. The petcock threads into the face of the radiator tank and replacing it is a fairly simple task that requires few tools. Make sure to drain the radiator before you remove the petcock to avoid spilling coolant.

Instructions

1

Open the hood of your Jeep and remove the radiator cap from the radiator. Set the cap aside then slide a jack under the front axle and raise the Jeep off the ground. Place a set of jack stands under the Jeep to support it.

2

Slide a section of rubber tubing onto the drain cock and place a drain pan below it. Open the drain cock with a wrench and allow the coolant to drain from the system. Spin the drain cock out of the radiator with a wrench and thread the new on in place, tightening it with the wrench. Make sure the drain is closed.

3

Raise the front of the Jeep off the jack stands then remove the stands from under the truck. Remove the drain pan from under the truck and lower the truck to the ground.

4

Fill the radiator with coolant then place the cap on the radiator. Open the pressure bottle and fill it with coolant until it reaches the full line on the bottle. Start the engine and turn the heat selector to on. Allow the Jeep to run until it reaches normal operating temperature, about five to 10 minutes.

5

Recheck the coolant level in the pressure bottle and add coolant until it reaches the full mark again. Continue checking and filling the bottle until the level no longer falls with the engine running.

6

Recheck the coolant level after several days of normal driving. Add additional coolant as needed at that time.

The T-5 is a five-speed automotive transmission manufactured by Transmissions Technologies Corporations (TREMEC) for Ford Motor Company. The transmission is used in passenger cars, SUVs and light trucks. It was first introduced in 1981 for use in the AMC Spirit/Concord. The two types of T-5 transmissions are World Class and Non World Class. Today the transmission is used in the Ford Mustang GT. It is also sold as an aftermarket part for use in classic car restoration.

Weight

The weight of the transmission is 75 pounds for both cars and light trucks. The transmission housings are made of die-cast aluminum in order to reduce the total weight.

Gear Ratio

The gear ratio for T-5 car transmissions can range from 2.95-to-1 to 3.75-to-1 for first gear, from 1.94-to-1 to 2.19-to-1 for second gear and from 1.29-to-1 to 1.41-to-1 for third gear. It is 1-to-1 for all models for fourth gear, and ranges from .08-to-1 to 0.72-to-1 for fifth gear and from 2.76-to-1 to 3.53-to-1 in reverse. For light trucks, the gear ratio can range from 3.35-to-1 to 4.03-to-1 for first gear, 1.99-to-1 to 2.37-to-1 for second gear and 1.33-to-1 to 1.49-to-1 for third gear. It is 1-to-1 for all models for fourth gear, and ranges from 72-to-1 to .86-to-1 for fifth gear and 3.71-to-1 to 3.76-to-1 for reverse.

Lower Counter Gears

The lower counter gears for the Non World Class transmissions produced in 1983 spin on cylindrical bearings that are in a straight configuration. These bearings have a thrust washer for support when they are under load. The lower counter gears of the 1985 Word Class transmissions have tapered bearings. These bearings replace the thrust washer of the earlier version.

Synchronizer Rings

Non World Class T-5 transmissions have solid bronze synchronizer rings. These rings are different sizes than the rings in the World Class T-5. On the World Class transmission, the synchronizer rings on the main shaft are fiber-lined steel. This material improved the friction surface of the rings, which slows the gear quickly, allowing for smoother shifts. The fifth gear ring is bronze. From 1990 to 1993, the ring linings on the V8 T-5 were changed to carbon fiber. This improvement in surface friction resulted in higher rpm shifts.

Other Specifications

The World Class T-5 was introduced in 1993. Its maximum horsepower is 450 under non-racing conditions. Based on 100,000 mile usage, the torque rating is 330 foot-pounds.

Vehicle lifter noise on start-up may be caused by several factors, depending on the type of oil filter, oil, lubrication system, mileage, mechanical condition and even required adjustments of your vehicle. Whatever the cause, there are some adjustments you can perform to quiet the lifters on start-up. Always start your diagnosis with the most common cause. In most cases, you will be able to fix your noisy lifters replacing a minimum of components or performing a few maintenance tasks.

Instructions

1

Take your car for a 20 minute drive on the highway to bring the engine up to operating temperature. Return to your driveway, open the hood and pull out the engine oil dipstick. Check the oil level and condition. If the oil is a quart lower from the required level or your engine is running on dirty, old oil, this may cause your lifters to tick. Add new enough oil to bring the amount to the correct level or replace the oil as necessary.

2

Make sure you are using an oil filter equipped with an anti-drainback valve (ADBV). This valve prevents the oil moving around the top of the engine from flowing back into the oil pan after shutting off the engine. This ensures that the engine, including your lifters, have oil during start up. A lifter that has provided your engine with miles of service will definitely benefit from a check-valve oil filter.

3

Take your vehicle to an auto shop and have them check engine oil pressure. If oil pressure is starting to drop, a worn out oil pump, clogged oil pickup screen, restricted oil pickup tube or oil galleries may be behind this problem.

4

Ask your mechanic to inspect the condition of the oil passages inside the engine. If you have failed to replace the engine oil at the recommended manufacturer intervals for some time, the inside of the engine might be covered with oil residue and gum, preventing proper oil flow. Take your vehicle to an auto shop and have them check oil pressure and engine mechanical condition.

5

Check the valve clearance in your engine. On some vehicle models, manufacturers advice adjusting valve clearance at recommended maintenance intervals. This will prevent excessive part wear and valve train noise. Consult your car service manual or call your local dealer, if necessary.

A brake light switch, located on a bracket mounted directly in front of the brake pedal arm, controls your 1993 Nissan Quests brake lights. As the pedal arm pushes forward from the force of you stepping on the brakes, it depresses the switch and activates the brake lights. When the switch short circuits, it will either leave the lights always on or always off. In order to get the lights off, and return them to normal functionality, youll need to replace the faulty brake light switch. If you have mechanical aptitude and 25 minutes of time on your hands, you can fix this problem.

Instructions

1

Open the Quests front door. Adjust the drivers seat as far back as it will go in order to provide yourself with sufficient room to access the under-dash area.

2

Shine the work light in the drivers foot well so it illuminates the area at the top of the brake pedal arm. Retract the retaining tab on the brake light wiring pigtail with your thumb while gripping the pigtail with your foinger. Pull the pigtail off the brake light switch.

3

Unbolt the faulty brake light switch from the mounting bracket using a box wrench. Discard the faulty brake light switch.

4

Set the new brake light switch into the bracket. Bolt it in with the box wrench. Plug the wiring pigtail into the new brake light switch by hand.

5

Depress the brake pedal and have your helper verify the brake lights work before driving your Nissan Quest.

If you have lost the keys that came with your Dodge truck, you can contact a locksmith and they can attempt to cut a new key for you. However, they usually replace the lock cylinder in the doors and in the steering column. This can cost hundreds of dollars. There is a simpler and less expensive way to replace the key for your Dodge pickup truck.

Instructions

1

Locate the vehicle identification number (VIN) by looking at the dash through the lower corner of the window on the drivers side of the vehicle. The VIN number is also on your vehicle title, insurance card and registration card.

2

Contact your local Dodge dealership and confirm that they have the ability to cut you a new key. Most dealerships offer repair services.

3

Take your VIN number to the dealership. They can use the VIN number to look up the key code needed to duplicate your key.

Catalytic converters are used to clean up car exhaust by burning left over fuel, not burned by the engine. They use particular properties of precious metals to catalyze the burning of hydrocarbons at temperatures below their normal ignition point. These precious metals include palladium, platinum, and rhodium.

The Facts

Catalytic converters were first installed into cars approximately 30 years ago. Prior to this, no emission regulations existed and cars put out a lot of pollutants into the atmosphere. California was the first state to begin monitoring emission levels and the first law appeared in 1968. In the early 1970s, the federal government also began to monitor and impose strict regulations on emissions. As a result, today cars are 99 percent cleaner.

Introduction

The cars exhaust is cleaner, the closer the ratio of fuel vapor to oxygen is kept to the perfect ratio of 14.7:1. This ratio is hard to maintain due to the vehicles fuel/ignition system and its range of operations. If the fuel is too rich, the emissions exit the engine through the exhaust and include chemicals such as nitrogen, carbon dioxide, and water vapor. Furthermore, the chemicals mix to form carbon monoxide, hydrocarbons and other volatile organic compounds.

Function

Catalytic converters have been developed and are installed into cars to chemically alter the emissions that leave the exhaust into more environmentally friendly chemical compounds. This is accomplished with the use of the reduction catalyst (a large surface coated with a catalyst). The surface area is located within the converter and is made as large as possible through the use of layers and honeycomb like structures. These metallic structures affect the largest possible volume of exhaust gas in the shortest period of time.

Features

The exhaust gas comes in contact with the catalyst, within the converter. The catalyst metal has a unique property of being able to break the nitrogen atom from the pollutant molecule and free the oxygen atom. As a result, nitrogen atoms bond with other nitrogen atoms on the catalyst and are later emitted into the atmosphere.This type of emission is considered clean.

Considerations

Catalytic converters only work at high temperatures because otherwise the chemical reaction discussed above will not happen. As a result, they get very hot and require a specifically designed heat shield. This heat shield protects the bottom of the car and any flammable materials underneath (on the road).

Trying to work with an O2 sensor without the proper tools may result in a myriad of problems. An oxygen sensor plays an important role as it measures the amount of oxygen in both the gas or liquid that the sensor is analyzing. Should a problem arise with the O2 sensor and it needs to be repaired or replaced, the importance of having the appropriate O2 sensor tools on hand increases significantly.

Oxygen Sensor Wrench

Reaching an oxygen sensor is often a challenge as it is generally located in a hard-to-reach space. The oxygen sensor wrench was created for just this purpose, as it is capable of replacing and installing new oxygen sensors, or simply giving the oxygen sensor a "checkup." Oxygen sensors wrenches are generally 22 mm, and vary in style based on what tool is needed for a particular O2 sensor (such as rusty or overheated sensors).

Oxygen Sensor Tester

The oxygen sensor tester tool measures the response time of the O2 sensor. If the O2 sensor, when tested, is unable to move from under 175mV to over 800mV in under 100mS upon snapping the throttle, then the test is failed, indicating the need for a new O2 sensor.

Oxygen Sensor Socket

The oxygen sensor socket tool is specifically designed to assist in removing the O2 sensor from the exhaust manifold. Alternatively, a 22-mm socket may be used if you are unable to acquire an oxygen sensor socket. The socket is placed over the O2 sensor and turned clockwise to loosen it, with heat (via letting the car warm for five minutes) and oil applied if you are unable to loosen it.

A Dana 44 is a type of automotive axle manufactured by Dana Corporation and used by many automobile manufacturers. The Dana 44 Axle for a Scout II is made specific for a Jeep. These axles can be installed on the Jeep, but often they need to be cut down to fit properly. If you are planning on installing a Dana axle for a Scout II, you may need to cut it down so it will fit.

Instructions

1

Run a tape measure along the length of the Scout II Dana 44 axle. It should measure 58 inches in length. This signifies it is the proper axle.

2

Lay down on the ground near the front of the Jeep and measure the distance across the front axle. This is where the new Dana 44 axle will be installed. Record the measurement.

3

Run a tape measure along the new Dana 44 axle and draw a small line along the axle with a black marker at the desired cut location so it will fit onto the Jeep.

4

Press the blade of an angle grinder up to the mark on the axle where you will be cutting. Put on gloves and safety goggles for added protection. Hold the arm coming out of the side of the angle grinder with your dominant hand and the back with your non-dominant hand.

5

Flip the switch to turn on the angle grinder and press it firmly into the metal. Cut caully along the black mark. Press down on the grinder so it does not move right or left when you are cutting and continue until the piece has been cut in two.

Boring out cylinders is a major part of any engine overhaul, whether the engine belongs to a car, truck or motorcycle. Mechanics who build hot rods bore out cylinders to increase engine displacement and horsepower. Engines that are worn out also get their cylinders bored out to restore functionality and extend service life. Worn cylinder walls permit oil to get into the chamber and cause smoky exhaust and high oil consumption. Loss of compression also results from "out of true" cylinders. Cylinders must generally be bored out at a machine shop with special equipment.

Instructions

1

Remove the engine from the vehicle. The engine must be completely stripped down to its core. Remove all exterior components, cylinder heads, intakes, and exhaust manifolds. Use the engine hoist to lift the engine from the vehicle and mount it to the engine stand.

2

Remove all interior engine parts. Remove the flywheel, core plugs, crankshaft, camshaft connecting rods and pistons. Use the steam cleaner to thoroughly clean the engine on the inside and out.

3

Bore the cylinders. Use the cylinder boring machine to bore the cylinders to the desired specifications. Take special care not to bore the cylinder walls too thin. This runs the risk of making the walls too close to the coolant and oil passages and causing an engine failure.

4

Hone the cylinders. Using the honing tool and stones, smooth out the cylinder walls. This ensures that the pistons and rings travel through each stroke evenly. After honing the cylinders, wash each one out with soapy water to remove any abrasives that have embedded into the walls.

5

Reassemble the engine and install the engine into the vehicle. When reassembling the engine, use new rings on the pistons as the old ones may be worn. You can also take this opportunity to upgrade other engine components like the camshaft, intake manifold and valve train.

The 1999 Mercury Cougar has two engine options. The base engine is a 2.0-liter, in-line four-cylinder, which produces 130 horsepower. The optional engine is a 170-horsepower 2.5-liter V-6. No matter the engine size, the 1999 Cougar has an on-board diagnostic (OBD) computer with an OBD-II port.

Location

The OBD-II port is sometimes difficult to find on certain vehicles. However, the Cougars OBD-II diagnostic port is easy to find. It is located on the drivers side, under the dashboard and to the drivers side of the steering wheel.

Function

The OBD-II port is where an OBD-II scanner can be plugged in. This scanner gathers all of the information from the vehicles computer and displays it on a screen. Some computers even have testing functions for certain components.

History

On-board diagnostics started back in 1982 in California when the California Air Resources Board began creating regulations that required all vehicles to have an on-board diagnostic system -- now known as OBD-I -- to sense emission system failures. In 1996 the Federal Government followed suit by making the more-universal OBD-II required on all vehicles.

Torsion bars are long metal springs that are used in low-cost car suspension. As more load is placed on a torsion bar, the more the bar twists. The amount of the twist will differ depending on the material used in the bar. Torsion bar suspension is used because it is cheap and durable, but it can still go bad. Most often torsion bars are damaged through impacts on the undercarriage or through rust.

Instructions

1

Shine a flashlight into the wheel well of the car or truck. The torsion bar will be sticking out from the cars frame perpendicularly. Depending on the car, the other end of the torsion bar will be bolted to a control arm or the steering knuckle itself. Look for any cracks in the torsion bar. If there are any cracks in the bar, then it is only a matter of time before it cracks in half.

2

Feel along the torsion bar for rust. Rust patches will feel gritty like a scab. If rust is present, then the torsion bar must be replaced. Also feel the bolts that secure each end for rust. If the bolts are rusted, then it is guaranteed that the rust has spread to the torsion bar bolt holes. Make sure to repeat this process in each wheel well.

3

Turn the car of truck on and take it for a test drive. If one corner seems to sag excessively, then that torsion bar has gone bad. Any metal object can succumb to metal fatigue over time, especially if under constant, heavy loads. Pay special attention when driving over speed bumps. If you hear a bang, then the torsion bar has grown too soft and allowed some suspension parts to come into contact. Any worn out torsion bar must be replaced.

The PCV, or positive crankcase ventilation valve, on the 3.0-liter engine in your Ford Taurus requires attention from time to time. As the valve gets old, it will allow oil and vapors from inside the engine to leak out. The PCV system removes excess pressure and unburned gases from inside the engine, recirculating the gases through the engine to be burned and expelled out of the exhaust. This decreases the emissions from the tailpipe and allows your car to run cleaner.

Instructions

1

Open the hood of your Taurus and locate the PCV valve on the top of the valve cover. The PCV valve looks like an L-shaped fitting plugged into the top of the valve cover and has a large hose attached to it.

2

Grasp the PCV valve and pull it straight out of the valve cover grommet. Grasp the hose on the end of the valve and separate it from the valve. Lay the hose aside for now.

3

Discard the old PCV valve, then insert the end of the new valve into the end of the rubber vacuum hose that you removed from the old valve. You may need to twist it a little to get it to slide in place.

4

Push the new PCV valve into the grommet on the top of the valve cover. Make sure it seats completely in the grommet so oil does not blow past it. Close the hood.

The drive cycle is a process where the vehicle is driven from a cold start and operated for a specific period of time, and at certain speeds, in order to allow the powertrain control module, or PCM, to perform certain diagnostic procedures and gather performance data. In order to reset the process and start from the beginning of the drive cycle, a number of steps must be completed. Failure to follow the specific procedure for resetting the drive cycle can delay the programming and configuration of certain modules, as well as alter previously gathered diagnostic data.

Instructions

1

Fill the fuel tank at least 15 percent full, but no more than 85 percent full. Having the tank too low or completely full will prevent the PCM from properly completing the drive cycle.

2

Park the vehicle and turn off the engine. Turn the ignition on and connect a scan tool to the vehicle. Clear any existing diagnostic trouble codes from the PCMs memory.

3

Turn the ignition completely off and allow the vehicle to cool for at least eight hours. The engine and the vehicle must be at room temperature to ensure a cold start at the beginning of the drive cycle. This can take up to eight hours.

4

Start the engine and confirm that the malfunction indicator lamp, or MIL, is not illuminated. Immediately turn off all accessories, such as the air conditioner and blower fan. The vehicle is now ready to begin a fresh OBD-II drive cycle.

The original factory stereo in a 1998 Buick Regal was available with two different options; an in-stereo tape player or an in-stereo compact disc player. Regardless of the option choice, the removal method is the same. Despite the excellent reliability of Buick factory radios, they do fail occasionally; leaving the driver and passenger with an eerily-silent interior. Replacement factory stereos are available in used condition from most salvage yards for a nominal fee or new from Buick dealerships for a much higher price.

Instructions

Removal

1

Open the drivers side door and remove the left instrument panel insulator by prying it free with a flat-head screwdriver.

2

Press the tilt lever on the steering column and adjust the steering wheel as far down as it will travel.

3

Remove the retaining screws on the lower leading edge of the ash tray panel cover. Pull the cover forward to disengage the retaining clips. Disconnect the ash tray lights electrical connector and remove the lower ash tray trim panel.

4

Open the passenger door. Disengage the instrument panel trim plates retaining tabs inside the air vents using a flat-head screw driver. Pry around the circumference of the instrument panel trim plate with a flat-head screwdriver until all of the retainers are disengaged. Pull the instrument panel trim plate away from the dashboard and set it aside.

5

Remove the screws holding the radio in place using a ratchet and metric socket. Pull the radio out and unplug the black antenna cable from the back of the radio. Disconnect the radios electrical connector and remove the radio from the vehicle.

Installation

6

Reconnect the radios antenna cable and electrical connector. Set the radio into position and reinstall the radio retaining bolts. Torque the bolts to 18 inch-pounds with a torque wrench.

7

Set the instrument panel trim plate into position and press down on it from left to right in order to seat the retaining clips. When the panel is properly seated there should be no large gaps between the panel and upper dash pad or radio face.

8

Reconnect the lower ash tray cover panel to the ash tray lights electrical connector. Set the panel into place and press down on it until the integrated locking tabs are fully-seated. Reinstall the lower ash tray panel retaining screws and torque them to 18 inch-pounds with a torque wrench.

9

Tilt the steering wheel back to a normal position. Reinstall the left instrument panel insulator. Turn on the ignition and test the radio.

Replacing the windshield wiper blades for a Volkswagen 2006 Jetta can easily be done by the owner. If the wiper blades are damaged, dirty or worn, they will not properly clean the windshield which can become a driving hazard. Checking the condition of your wiper blades the same time as you change the oil is a good rule of thumb. There are different styles of wiper blades for the 2006 Jetta that can be purchased from most auto parts stores or a Volkswagen dealership.

Instructions

1

Insert and turn the ignition key to the "On" position but do not start the engine.

2

Press the wiper blade lever to the "On" position and turn the ignition key to the "Off" position. This will position the wipers on the windshield in order to access the blades.

3

Pull the wiper blades away from the windshield into an upright position.

4

Press the blade release button on the tip of the wiper arm.

5

Remove one blade at a time by pulling down on the wiper.

6

Slide the replacement blade onto the wiper arm until it clicks into place. Lower the wiper arm back onto the windshield.

7

Insert and turn the ignition key to the "On" position but do not start the engine.

8

Press the wiper blade lever to the "On" and "Off" position then turn the ignition key to "Off." This will place the wipers back in their normal operating position.

The air temperature sensor on the 1997 Chevrolet Tahoe monitors the temperature of the air flowing through the intake into the filter. The engine computer regulates the fuel to air ratio based on the temperature readings from the sensor. Buy a new sensor from an auto parts retailer, and change it at home. The sensor mounts in an accessible location and requires no disassembly to access it.

Instructions

1

Raise the hood of the Tahoe. Support it with the prop rod.

2

Locate the air cleaner assembly at the top of the engine compartment, near the firewall. The air cleaner assembly is a large black box with air intake hoses attached to either side and clips securing the cover.

3

Look for a small wire running to the passenger side of the air cleaner assembly, just above the intake hose. The air temperature sensor connects to the end of the wire, threaded into the air cleaner assembly.

Removing the shifters from the floor of your Jeep Grand Cherokee for replacement or to access another part of the Jeep requires the removal of the center console. The bolts that secure the shifters are under the console and you cannot get to them with the console in place. The shifters are both mounted in on a bracket so they must be removed as a single unit and replacing one means replacing both. Replacement shifter assemblies are available from the Jeep dealerships parts department or you may find a used assembly from a salvage yard in like new condition, saving you money.

Instructions

1

Sit in the drivers seat of your Jeep and set the parking brake. Insert the ignition key into the ignition and turn the key just far enough to unlock the transmission. Depress the brake pedal and shift the transmission all the way to the rear then turn the key back to lock.

2

Lift the rubber mat out of the front bin in the console, exposing the retaining screws under it. Remove the screws with a Phillips screwdriver and set them aside.

3

Open the armrest on the console and locate the two screws in the base of the compartment. Remove the two screws with a Phillips screwdriver and set them aside. Slide the rear cup holders out to allow you to access the two screws under the rear of the console.

4

Remove the rear retaining screws with a Phillips screwdriver. Lift the console up and over the shifters then set it aside.

5

Locate the two cables coming to the front of the transmission and transfer case shifts and pry the retaining clips up and off the bracket with a small pry bar. Using a screwdriver, pop the shift cable off the side of the shifter on both sides then lay the cables aside.

6

Remove the four retaining bolts that secure the shifters and bracket to the floor of the Jeep with a socket and ratchet. Lift the entire assembly straight off the mounting studs and remove it from the Jeep.

There are two oxygen sensors integrated into the exhaust system of the 2001 Saturn SL. The sensors help the 1.9-liter four-cylinder engine generate an ideal fuel-to-air ratio for optimum emissions. One sensor is located near the manifold and monitors this mixture. If the mixture becomes compromised (too much air makes the mix too lean; too much fuel makes the mix too rich), the sensor transmits a trouble code to the computer in the car. The rear sensor monitors the efficiency of the catalytic converter, which filters the harmful exhaust gases and converts them into less-harmful emissions.

Instructions

Upstream Sensor

1

Start the engine of the Saturn on a level ground for at least five minutes to warm the engine. This will help expand the metal of the manifold and sensor junction. Be caul and dont let it run too long, because it wont take long for the manifold and sensor to get hot enough to burn you.

2

Open the hood and locate the upstream sensor at the bottom of the manifold in the front of the engine. Disconnect the wire harness plug connection.

3

Spray penetrating lubricant along the threads of the sensor where it screws into the manifold and allow it to soak in for a few minutes.

4

Place the socket onto the ratchet and place the sensor wire into the slot of the socket (or feed the wire through the box end of a 22mm wrench) and turn the sensor counterclockwise to remove it from the manifold.

5

Inspect the new sensor before inserting it into the port hole in the manifold. Most quality aftermarket sensors have a light coat of high-temperature anti-seize compound on the threads of the sensor. If there is none on the threads, apply a very light coat to the threads only. Avoid getting any on the sensor itself.

6

Thread the sensor into the manifold porthole by hand, then tighten snugly. Do not over-tighten the sensor or youll strip the few threads it has and will ruin it. Plug the wire from the new sensor back into the wire-harness connector.

Downstream Sensor

7

Park the Saturn on a hard, level surface and then apply the parking brake (after warming the engine for five minutes; again, this will expand the metal of the exhaust pipe and sensor junction). Use the vehicle jack to lift the front of the Saturn, one front quarter panel at a time, high enough to place a jack stand under each front frame rail.

8

Put on safety glasses and crawl underneath the Saturn with the remaining items.

9

Locate the downstream sensor near the catalytic converter (in the center of the undercarriage under the front seats of the passenger cab).

10

Disconnect the wire-harness connection, then spray the threads with penetrating lubricant. Allow a few minutes to let the spray soak in. Use the ratchet and socket or 22mm wrench as described in Step 4 of Section 1 to remove the sensor from the exhaust piping.

11

Insert the new sensor (again making sure it has a light coat of high-temperature anti-seize compound on the thread section only) into the porthole of the exhaust pipe, and tighten snugly. Reconnect the wire of the sensor to the harness plug connection.

The ignition switch on a 1977 Chevrolet truck is mounted on the steering column and is designed to trigger the starter motor and start the engine. This assembly can wear out over time. You then would have to remove the switch and replace it with a new one. This task can take about 30 minutes.

Instructions

1

Unbolt the steering column from the dashboard with the 1/2-inch ratchet and socket. Caully lower it away from the dashboard to access the top of the ignition switch.

2

Unplug the wiring to the switch. Insert the key in the ignition and put it into the "Lock" position.

3

Unscrew the switch from the column using the Phillips-head screwdriver. Pull the switch off of the column and replace it with a new unit.