Thursday, May 22, 2014
How to Connect a Voltmeter With a Delco Alternator
Unsurprisingly, a voltmeter measures the voltage running through any object that has the ability to carry an electrical charge. Generally, voltmeters do not measure solely voltage but come as part of a multi-meter device that can be used to measure other aspects of electrical currents as well, including amps and ohms. If you need to know the voltage of a Delco alternator, you can use the voltmeter component of a multi-meter to take the measurement.
Instructions
- 1
Find the volt component of the multi-meter. Depending upon the multi-meter, the voltmeter component may have its own ports, or the meter may have one main input and a dial to choose the measurement that you want to take. If the multi-meter has separate ports for measuring volts, you can recognize them from the "V" that marks them. If the multi-meter has only one set of ports, turn the dial to the "V" setting to use the device as a voltmeter.
2Plug the probes provided with the multi-meter into the appropriate ports. Test the probes by touching the tips together gently. The measurement on the multi-meter screen should not move from "0" or should move into the single digits at most. If it moves more than that, the fuse of the multi-meter is not working properly and should be replaced before testing.
3Place the black probe of the multi-meter against the negative terminal of the Delco alternator. This terminal stays the same whether you have a negatively or positively charged alternator. It is the screw with the metal arm attached to it.
4Touch the red probe to the positive terminal on the Delco alternator. In a negatively charged alternator, the positive terminal is the screw that does not have an insulating cover. In a positively charged alternator, the positive terminal is the red wire that stretches between two of the screws.
Thursday, April 24, 2014
Rebuilt Alternator Problems
When a car breaks down, the cost to replace a failed part, coupled with the labor, can be staggering. Often, there is a choice between a newly built or rebuilt part, especially for vehicle parts like the alternator.
Identification
An alternator is the electrical support of the cars engine. It supplies a charge to the car battery, as well as all the electrical needs of the vehicle, such as powering the headlights. A rebuilt alternator is usually cheaper than a new one.
Considerations
Problems with a rebuilt alternator can mimic those of a new alternator. Bearings can be improperly installed upon rebuilding or wiring can be either attached incorrectly or poorly soldered for a loose connection. Also, rebuilt alternators can be installed by the mechanic incorrectly, which can cause electrical issues in the vehicle.
Significance
Often, consumers do not feel comfortable with a rebuilt alternator, though it can cost 25 to 40 percent less than new alternators. Keep in mind that rebuilders want to sell these parts, so quality assurance is of utmost importance. Its a good idea to see what warranties are available for parts and labor of a rebuilt alternator.
Sunday, February 2, 2014
What Is an Alternator Core Charge
When buying an alternator, or other car part, many consumers are surprised to learn that they are charged a core deposit. However, the deposit is returned when the old alternator is returned to the parts store.
How it Works
When buying a new alternator, the buyer pays the price of the alternator plus a deposit. After the new alternator is put onto the car, the buyer can exchange the old alternator for the deposit.
Conditions
The conditions for the old alternator to be accepted will vary depending on store policy. Information on the core return should be given at the time of purchase and is often included on the receipt. Most cores must be returned in rebuildable condition, within a set amount of time and in the box that the new part was sold in.
Core Deposit Purpose
The reason parts stores want the old alternator is that it will be sent to be remanufactured and resold. Parts stores charge the core deposit to assure that they receive the old part.
Monday, December 2, 2013
Symptoms of Alternator Bearing Problems
The alternator in a vehicle takes gas and converts it into power that the vehicle can use. According to Mister Fix It, the alternator is vital to keeping a vehicles electrical system running at optimal performance. When the alternator bearings on a vehicle are not working properly, the alternator does not turn properly and thus the alternator does not work.The alternator bearings turn the alternator so it can convert power from gas to electricity for systems like the air conditioner, radio and headlights. The symptoms will show different problems with the alternator bearings and other issues in the vehicle. Once the symptoms are identified and the problem is known as an alternator problem, fixing it is possible.
Progressive Squealing Sound
A progressive squealing sound, or a sound that gets louder and makes a squealing noise, is a sign of alternator bearing problems. Usually, the bearing is loose when this occurs. The mechanic should rule out other potential problems that come with similar symptoms, such as timing belt problems. Once it is determined that the alternator bearing is loose, replace it because a loose bearing gets damaged.
Dim Lights
Alternator problems cause dim lights. If the alternator bearings are not properly turning the alternator, the lights will not work properly because they are only getting power from the battery and not from the gas. Dim lights alone, without other symptoms, are usually caused by dirt or old bulbs, but if other explanations are eliminated, the alternator is a potential cause.
Car Lights Come On
Alternator problems or issues with the alternator bearing cause the warning lights to turn on. The "Batt" or "Gen" lights are the most common lights that come on when there is a problem with the alternator. These do not always come on, especially if the battery has plenty of charge, but when these lights come on there is a good chance the alternator or alternator bearing is the problem.
Saturday, November 30, 2013
How to Replace an Alternator in a 1992 Lumina 3 4
The alternator in a 1992 Chevy Lumina is what supplies the power for everything electrical in the car. The cars alternator is also responsible for keeping the battery fully charged. When the alternator goes bad, none of this happens. Your battery goes dead and you wont be able to start the car anymore. The alternator works on the principle of a magnet moving across a wire inducing current flow and voltage. This voltage and current are internally regulated to levels that are usable by your car.
Changing the alternator in your front wheel drive 1992 Chevy Lumina is a fairly easy project that anyone with the proper tools can accomplish in a couple of hours.
Instructions
Removal of Old Alternator
- 1
Loosen and remove the negative battery cable from the battery, using the 5/16 wrench. Tuck it out of the way. Ensure that it wont move and make contact with the battery while youre working.
2Insert the square drive of the ratchet into the square opening on the tensioner pulley and pull the pulley off the serpentine belt. With the tension on the belt released, carefully pull the serpentine belt off the alternator pulley and push it out of the way. Normally, you need to turn this pulley clockwise to release tension.
3Loosen the two bolts that secure the alternator to the side of the engine closest to the bulkhead between the engine bay and passenger compartment using the ratchet and a 9/16 or 5/8 socket. You need to turn these bolts counter-clockwise to remove them. Set these bolts aside where you can easily reach them during installation.
4Lift the alternator out of its location. There will be a two wire connectors on the back of the alternator. One is a screw terminal and the other is plug. Both of these need to be removed. Squeeze the connector and pull straight out. Use a 3/8 or 10mm wrench to remove the nut securing the large single wire. Set the old alternator aside as youll need to return it for a core refund.
Installation of the New Alternator
- 5
Connect the large wire to the lug labeled "BAT" on the back of the alternator and secure it with the nut and washer provided.Use the same wrench you used for removal to tighten the nut. Insert the two wire connector into the connector on the alternator.
6Lower the alternator into place with one hand and, using the other hand, insert the bolts and thread them in as much as you can by hand. Use the ratchet to make the bolts as tight as you can. The bolts need to be turned clockwise to install them.
7Route the serpentine belt back onto the alternator pulley and up to the tensioner pulley. Insert the square drive of the ratchet into the square opening on the tensioner pulley and turn clockwise to lift the pulley out of the way. Carefully slide the serpentine belt over the tensioner pulley and slowly let the spring take tension back onto the belt.
8Reattach the negative battery cable. Use the 5/16 wrench to tighten the terminal bolt clockwise.
Tuesday, November 26, 2013
How Do I Remove a 2000 Jeep Alternator
Removing the alternator from the engine of your Jeep will allow you to have the unit tested if you are experience changing-system problems. If you are working on other components on the front of the engine, the alternator may need removing for access to other parts. Whatever the reason for removing it, you can take the alternator off the bracket and out of the engine compartment in about 20 to 30 minutes with basic hands tools.
Instructions
- 1
Open the hood of your Jeep and locate the negative battery cable end on the negative battery terminal. Remove the retaining bolt from the battery cable end with a wrench, then remove the cable from the battery.
2Locate the serpentine belt tensioner on the front of the engine and place a socket and breaker bar on the axis bolt, the bolt in the center of the idler pulley, then rotate the tensioner counterclockwise. Remove the belt from the alternator pulley, then rotate the tensioner back to the home position and remove the breaker bar.
3Locate the electrical connector on the top of the alternator, depress the locking tab and pull it out of the connector on the alternator body. Lay the connector aside for now. Locate the second connector on the rear of the alternator. Remove the retaining nut from the terminal with a socket and ratchet, then remove the wire from the terminal.
4Remove the upper mounting bolt from the alternator with a socket and ratchet. Set the bolt aside for reuse later.
5Locate and remove the lower mounting bolt from the alternator with a socket and ratchet, then lift the alternator off the mounting bracket and out of the engine compartment.
Thursday, November 21, 2013
The Test Equipment for an Alternator
Various parts of the car have electrical needs that are provided by the cars battery, which includes the headlights, ignition coils, engine cooling system, the radio and the air conditioner. Like with all electronic devices, the alternator can be tested using specialized equipment known as an alternator tester. These alternator testers can determine what is wrong with a particular alternator so that the problems can be fixed. Testers are especially important when initially designing the alternator so that engineers can ensure that the alternator will work in all operating conditions.
Bench Testers
Alternator bench testers must simulate the actual operating conditions of the load testers. Speed control is handled electronically when simulating the operating conditions, according to Crumbliss, a company specializing in alternator testers. Alternator testers come in many varieties. What distinguishes them is their horsepower, which ranges from five to 20; whether or not they are single or three-phase; if they have electronic variable speed; their voltage, which ranges from 12 to 32; their amperage, which ranges from 65 to 450; and their wattage, which ranges from 2100 to 7200. Horsepower is a measurement of the testers power, voltage is the amount of electrical current generated by the alternator tester, and wattage is the electrical power of the tester.
Heavy Duty Testers
There is also the heavy duty load tester that tests 12- and 24-volt automotive and diesel starters. Other heavy duty power supply testers are available that test alternating and direct currents, according to Crumbliss. These testers deliver 500 amps of constant voltage, adequate for testing powerful alternators.
Performance and Endurance Testers
Alternator performance and endurance testers have PC-based PID controllers, which are generic feedback mechanisms. The alternator speed can be adjusted electronically. They have loading in constant resistance, current and voltage modes, according to Samin Afzar company, a company that specializes in test machines for cars. They have a temperature chamber that subjects the alternator to a specific temperature that is adjustable so that certain conditions can be simulated. They have an instant 500 voltage in loading machines.
Wires Used With Testers
Wires must be connected to the coils inside the alternator so that there is an easy connection between the testing equipment and the circuits. According to All About Circuits, a company specializing in electrical wiring, the alternator often has to be taken apart so that the wires can be connected to terminals, called carbon brushes, found within the alternator. The wires are soldered to the terminals then run through the vent holes on the alternator. The wires must be run in a way that will not cause the wires to be caught by the spinning rotor.
Thursday, November 7, 2013
Replacing the Alternator on a 2002 Lincoln LS
The alternator for any given vehicle acts as the generator for the automobile, keeping the battery charged while it regulates the flow of electrical charge through the engine components. If your lights begin to flicker when you run your vehicle or various electrical processes seem to be slower than usual, the chances are that the alternator in your 2002 Lincoln LS is going out. Replacing the old alternator with a new one can keep your Lincoln out of the garage and on the road where you need it most.
Instructions
- 1
Park your Lincoln on a level area, set the parking brake and turn the engine off. Open the hood of the vehicle and locate the old alternator by either following the connector from the battery or using your new alternator as a guide to the proper component. Disconnect the negative power cable from the battery with a wrench or socket .
2Locate the belt diagram chart on your Lincoln, either on the hood or the radiator shroud, and use it to locate the tensioner pulley that must be adjusted to loosen the serpentine belt. Refer to the chart for instructions on which way to turn the tensioner pulley in order to loosen the serpentine belt (some LS models require a clockwise motion while others need to be turned counterclockwise). Use a ratchet and socket on the bolt that sticks out of the tensioner pulley and rotate it in the indicated direction to loosen it. Slide the serpentine belt off the tensioner pulley once it is loosened and remove the belt from the alternator pulley. Let the pulley go back to its original position.
3Disconnect the electrical wiring harness attached to the alternator and remove the positive battery cable connection with the socket or wrench. Loosen the mounting bolts on the front of the alternator and remove them with the wrench or socket. Lift the support bracket away from the alternator and remove the old alternator. Install the new alternator in place. Reattach the support bracket and tighten the mounting bolts. Reconnect the electrical wiring harness and the positive battery cable, then slide the serpentine belt over the alternator pulley. Release the automatic belt tensioner to replace the belt over the tensioner pulley and let it slowly move back to its original position once the belt is in place.
4Reconnect the negative power lead to the battery of your Lincoln with the wrench. Start the engine and let it run for several minutes while you check the various electrical processes in your vehicle and look for signs of power fluctuations.