Fix It

The Yahama V-Star 1100 is a cruiser-style motorcycle produced by Yamaha. As part of the routine maintenance of the motorcycle, users should check their engine oil level often, as operating the bike with too little oil can cause serious damage to the engine. The Yamaha V-Star 1100 does not have a dip-stick. Instead, it has a small window, or sight glass, located on the left side of the engine. This allows owners to check the oil level quickly, without the need for a rag to clean the dipstick.

Instructions

1

Turn off the Yamaha V-Star 1100s engine, then put the kickstand down to secure the motorcycle in an upright position.

2

Locate the small, round, glass window, on the bottom of the left side of the motorcycle.

3

Locate the two hash marks on the glass, one near the top of the glass, and one near the bottom. The top hash mark indicates the maximum amount of oil that should be in the engine, and the bottom mark indicates the minimum amount of oil that should be in the engine.

4

Bring the bike to a vertical position, to ensure an accurate reading. While the motorcycle is straight up, look at the glass and determine where the oil falls in relation to the two marks. The oil level should be between the two hash marks. If the oil level is below the minimum line, add oil before starting the engine again, and if it is above the maximum line, you should remove oil prior to starting the engine. Add oil a little at a time, and check the glass each time, to avoid over-filling.

Knowing when to replace the drive belt on your car can save you thousands of dollars in repair costs. There is no "quick fix" should your drive belt break from too much wear and tear. Regularly check the belt to avoid getting stranded -- and monster repair bills. Serpentine belts, standard V-belts and "cogged" V-belts are the three main types used.

Serpentine Belt

Controlled by a belt tensioner or an idle pulley, the serpentine belt is also known as the "poly-V-belt." According to an article on the Engine Blox website, this belt was named from its flexible nature, allowing it to "snake" around pulleys. The belt is wide and can withstand higher tension than older belts, reducing stress on the engine and boosting gas mileage. A serpentine belt needs to be replaced every five years or 50,000 miles, according to AA1Car.com. Most new cars include a diagram under the hood that explains how to replace it.

Standard V-belt

The V-belt is a half inch wide. Narrower than the serpentine belt, it is typically found on older automobiles. Its tapered sides fit between pulleys or gears and it works best with light loads, since the flat base does not rotate gears precisely. A standard V-belt should be replaced every three years or 36,000 miles, and replacement costs roughly half the price of a serpentine belt, according to International Auto Repair.

Cogged V-belt

The cogged belt is similar to the standard V-belt, except that it has grooved base. These grooves allow a firm grip on gears and engine accessories, making the belt ideal for high-load applications. As does the standard V belt, the cogged belt should be replaced every three years or 36,000 miles.

Keeping your car in good running condition is important. Paying attention to unusual noises or issues your car may be having is essential to diagnose a problem with your vehicle before it develops into a serious repair job. Engine misfiring can be the result of any number of factors, from faulty wiring to the engine not running on all cylinders. If you notice any of these signs of misfiring, take your car into a mechanic immediately to get it checked out.

Engine Problems

Since misfiring often indicates a larger problem with your engine, issues that come from using the engine in your car are often a clear sign. Difficulty starting your car and getting the engine to turn over are a common symptom of misfiring. The engine may also stumble or hesitate while you drive. While accelerating or decelerating, the engine might buck or speed up suddenly.

Shudders and Shakes

One of the most commonly noticed indicators of misfiring is a shudder passing through the vehicle. Shaking and shuddering can range from small vibrations that only you notice, or full-on shaking throughout the car. Often, moisture and humidity can exacerbate the problem, and you will noticed increased shuddering on rainy or overly humid days. Shuddering and shaking can happen during driving or when the car is sitting idle, so pay attention to any unexpected movement within the car regardless of your speed.

Slow Acceleration

Difficulty accelerating and decelerating is another potential sign of misfiring. Often, the engine will stall out during a fast accelerating, or suddenly jump and accelerate more quickly than you intended. It also might take more effort than usual to get your car to accelerate, and when it does, the acceleration will happen much more slowly than normally.

Flashing Check Engine Light

Although this may seem an obvious symptom, the "Check Engine" light on many cars indicates different things depending on its behavior. A flashing or blinking "Check Engine" light can specifically indicate a misfire. Take your car into a trained mechanic for a check-up if you notice the light flashing, and he should be able to diagnose the cause through the diagnostic code provided by the cars computer.

Having a faulty license plate light can cause you a lot of problems. A burnt out license plate light can result in fines and possibly having to make a court appearance. There are two main causes for a non working light. They are a bulb that is blown or a worn light socket. It pays to know how to fix this problem quickly.

Instructions

Replacing a Blown Bulb

1

Remove the cover from the bulb. This will differ from vehicle to vehicle but it is normally a tab that slides out.

2

Remove the bulb from the socket.

3

Check that the old bulb matches the connections on the new bulb.

4

Click the new bulb into place in the socket.

5

Replace the cover until you hear a "click."

6

Turn on the ignition and test the light.

Replacing a Socket

7

Remove the cover from the bulb. This will differ from vehicle to vehicle but it is normally a tab that slides out.

8

Remove the bulb from the socket.

9

Remove the actual socket from the vehicle. This will be held in place by one or two screws.

10

Remove the connected wires from the back of the socket either by untwisting the connectors, or cutting them apart. Most will be attached using connectors, but some will be hard wired and need cutting with a wire cutter.

11

Attach the new socket to the connections. If the vehicle was hard wired then you will need to color match the wires and splice and solder to the back of the new socket.

12

Reattach the socket to the vehicle using the screws.

13

Insert a working bulb into the socket.

14

Replace the cover.

15

Start ignition and test light.

The LT1 is a popular small-block engine made by General Motors. First appearing in 1992, it was the powerplant of choice for various Chevrolets, Buicks and Pontiacs throughout the 1990s. The LT1s wiring uses a single harness, consisting mainly of simple push-on connectors. If you stay organized and plan correctly, a complete LT1 rewire is not a difficult project.

Instructions

1

Shut off the engine and raise the hood of the car. Reach inside the engine bay and locate part of the wiring harness. It is one long length of heavy cable insulation that branches off to many different parts of the car. It doesnt matter where you start; just locate one of the electrical sensor plugs.

2

Identify the component to which the plug is connected -- for instance, the air conditioner, the injector or the oxygen sensor. It can help to have your user manual handy for this. Write the name of the component on a piece of masking tape and wrap it around the connector. Continue and label all of the connectors.

3

Use the erence diagram for the new wiring harness to label all the connections on it. Familiarize yourself with all the locations of the connections, and start looking at the routing of the cables. Some sections of the harness are secured using plastic hooks to bundle the cables to the wall of the engine bay.

4

Enter the car and slide all the control knobs off of the switches and sliders on the dash. Store them in a safe place. Remove the screws holding the dash to the firewall and lift it out. The tension of the existing wires will only allow a few inches movement so you can lean the whole assembly against the steering column.

5

Label all the connections on the back of the dash, just as you did in the engine bay.

6

Place the replacement harness into the engine and position all the connectors in their appropriate places. Do not connect anything yet, just move the cable into position and make sure everything is routed correctly, and that the cable can reach all of the relevant connectors.

7

Reposition the cables from the new harness so they are underneath the old one. This will make it easier to remove the old harness without accidentally yanking out the new one.

8

Remove the old harness by squeezing the small sprung clip on each connector, then wiggling it out. Work through each connector one at a time, removing the old connector, and replacing it with the new one. Swap over each connector in the engine bay, then on the back of the dash.

9

Lift the old harness out of the car, taking care not to snag it on the new one. Work around the connections again, making sure all the plugs are firmly seated.

Power valves on Holley carburetors are usually trouble free, but they do occasionally require replacement. Engine modifications may dictate the use of a different power valve. You may want to change your power valve if youve moved to an area that is significantly higher or lower in elevation than your previous residence. Also, power valves may rupture and require replacement if the engine backfires through the carburetor. There usually no need to remove the carburetor from the engine in order to replace the power valve.

Instructions

1

Remove the fuel line from the carburetors fuel bowl. Fuel line attachments vary. The most typical style is a slip-on fitting with a hose clamp. Use a screwdriver to loosen the hose clamp, and pull the hose from the carburetor. Use a rag to soak up any spilled fuel.

2

Remove the fuel bowl from the carburetor. Remove the four hex head bolts that retain the fuel bowl and metering block using the 5/16-inch nut driver. Using the handle of the screwdriver, tap lightly on the fuel bowl to loosen it, and set the fuel bowl aside.

3

Remove the metering block to expose the power valve. Again, tap gently on the metering block to free it from the carburetor main body.

4

Unscrew the power valve from the metering block using a 1-inch wrench.

5

Install a gasket on the new power valve, and thread the valve into the metering block. Tighten hand-tight plus 1/8 turn.

6

Using new gaskets, reassemble the carburetor. Attach the power valve side of the metering block to the main body, followed by the fuel bowl. Insert the fuel bowl bolts into the fuel bowl, and tighten the bolts finger tight plus 1/4 turn.

7

Reattach the fuel line to the inlet on the fuel bowl, and tighten the hose clamp.

The Duramax engine is an eight-cylinder diesel engine from General Motors that has been in production since 2001. General Motors uses it in larger trucks, such as the Chevrolet Silverado 2500 and 3500. The Duramax employs fuel injection to deliver fuel to the engine under very high pressure. The procedure for replacing the fuel injectors is generally the same for all full-size Chevrolet trucks made after 2005 with diesel engines.

Instructions

1

Drain the coolant from the radiator into a container, and seal the container for later use. Remove the cable from the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench. Detach the electrical connector for the air inlet duct from the left side of the turbocharger. Remove the electrical connectors from the main wiring harness on the engine. Disconnect the electrical connector from the barometric sensor.

2

Remove the clip on the engine wiring harness, and disconnect the bracket for the harness with a socket wrench. Detach the electrical connector for the glow plug controller, and remove the positive crankcase ventilation hose from the crankcase.

3

Disconnect the outlet duct for the air cleaner on the right side of the engine with a socket wrench. Release the clamp on the hose to the outlet duct, and disconnect the hose from the outlet duct. Remove the fuel filter and its bracket from the engine. Disconnect the control module from the fuel injectors.

4

Blow debris away from the fuel injectors and fuel lines with compressed air. Clean the fuel lines and fittings with a clean shop cloth. Remove the fuel lines from the fuel injectors and disconnect the electrical wiring from the fuel injectors.

5

Remove the mounting bolts for the fuel injector bracket with a socket wrench. Connect injector removal tool J-46594 to the bolt hole on the fuel injector bracket. Pull the injector removal tool away from the fuel injector with a flare nut wrench to remove the fuel injector. Disconnect the injector removal tool from the fuel injector. Replace the copper washer and O-rings on the fuel injector if necessary.

6

Install the new fuel injector, and fasten the mounting bolts for the fuel injector bracket by hand. Tighten the mounting bolts to 22 foot-pounds with a torque wrench. Attach the electrical wiring for the fuel injectors. Connect the fuel lines to the fuel injectors, and attach the clips to the fuel lines. Tighten the retaining nuts for the fuel lines to 30 foot-pounds with a torque wrench.

7

Connect the remaining components by performing steps one through three in reverse order. Replace the coolant in the radiator.

First introduced in 1995, Outback is a crossover automobile with four wheel drive manufactured by Subaru and sold worldwide. All Outback crossovers require periodic adjustment, often erred to as "alignment." The factory specifications for the alignment are the same for all 2000 Outback models. These specifications are given for a vehicle at curb height with one-half tank of fuel.

Camber

Measured in degrees, camber is the outward or inward tilt of the wheel in relation to the center of the vehicle. The Outback camber angle should be the same on both left and right wheels. Camber angles must be +0.20 degrees with the measuring accuracy of 0.30 degrees on the front wheels and -0.35 degrees with the measuring accuracy of 0.45 degrees on the rear wheels.

Caster

Caster is both the rearward and the forward tilt of the steering knuckle from the true vertical. Caster is the measurement in angles that is responsible for directional stability. The Outback caster angle should be the same on both rear and front wheels. The angle must be +2.50 degrees with the maximum allowable difference of 1.0 degree.

Toe

Toe is the difference between the leading and trailing inside edges of the front wheels. Total toe angles on the Outback models must be +0.00 degrees with measuring range of 0.20 degrees. Toe-in specification should be set at 0 mm with maximum allowable difference of 3.0 mm.

Though it may seem unneeded, a change of the exhaust system on your Honda can make a world of difference. Also, exhaust kits can be relatively cost-affective and easy to install. The process of replacing exhaust can be done without any specialized mechanical knowledge.

Instructions

1

Back the vehicle on to blocks, or use a jack to raise the rear end of the vehicle.

2

Use a standard flathead screwdriver to remove the hose clamp from the joint between the muffler and piping. Also, unscrew the mounting clamps that keep the muffler attached to the bottom of the vehicle. Pull the muffler off the piping and away from the vehicle.

3

Remove the hose clamp that attaches the piping to the exhaust port. Remove all of the mounting clamps that keep the piping attached to the vehicle. Remove the piping.

4

Replace the old piping with newly purchased piping. Make sure to place heat-treated silicon around any joints. Attach the hose clamp to the exhaust port joint, and replace all mounting clamps.

5

Replace the old muffler with a new one. Again, place heat-treated silicon around the joint. Attach the hose clamp to the joint between the muffler and the piping, and replace all mounting clamps.

The Power Stroke engines are a series of diesel engines that Ford manufactures for its heavy trucks. Ford made the 7.3-liter Power Stroke engine from 1995 to 2002, primarily for its line of Super Duty trucks. The engines in these vehicles use fuel injection, requiring a high-pressure fuel system to deliver fuel to the engine. The fuel pump for a 7.3-liter Power Stroke engine is on the undercarriage of the vehicle.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the cables on both negative battery terminals with a socket wrench to prevent the inadvertent discharge of fuel during the fuel pump replacement. Open the drain valve for the fuel filter with a socket wrench to relieve the fuel pressure. Replace the drain valve.

2

Raise the vehicle with a jack and support it with jack stands. Disconnect the wiring harness on the back of the fuel pump next to the frame rail.

3

Remove the retaining clip from the fuel line and detach the fuel line from the fuel pump. Disconnect the retaining clip that attaches the brake lines to the fuel pump bracket.

4

Disconnect the pinch bolt from the fuel pump bracket with a socket wrench. Push the bracket open and remove the fuel pump.

5

Place the new fuel pump in the fuel pump mounting bracket. Fasten the pinch bolt to the fuel pump mounting bracket and tighten it to 13 ft. lbs. with a torque wrench. Attach the brake lines to the mounting bracket with the retaining clip. Connect the fuel line to the fuel pump.

6

Attach the wiring harness to the fuel pump and lower the vehicle. Fasten the cables for the negative battery terminals with a socket wrench. Start the vehicle and check for leaks in the fuel system.

Removing the glove box from the dashboard of your Jeep Grand Cherokee may be necessary if you are working on something behind the dashboard or if the glove box has damage to it that requires replacement of the entire assembly. You will not need any tools to remove the glove box, and the entire process takes just a few minutes to complete. Replacement components and assemblies are available from the parts department at any Jeep dealer.

Instructions

1

Open the glove box until the stops on the back edge are resting against the rubber stop bumpers in the upper glove box opening. Reach into the glove box and, with the middle finger of each hand, push the rubber flap on the two glove box stop bumpers toward the front of the vehicle.

2

Roll the glove box door down until the stops on the back edge of the glove box pass through the openings in the upper glove box opening. Grasp both ends of the glove box door, then twist and pull the door as necessary to disengage the inboard hinge hook from the inboard hinge pin on the dashboard.

3

Raise the glove box door until it is perpendicular to the instrument panel then twist the door slightly counterclockwise and shake the door slightly to disengage the remaining two hinge hooks from the instrument panel.

4

Pull the glove box straight out of the dashboard. Set it aside in a safe place so you can reinstall it later if you will be reusing it.

Car keys come in various forms depending on the make, model and year of your vehicle. Newer-model cars feature keys equipped with computer chips that correspond to the computer chip in your specific vehicle. Older-model vehicles do not have computer chips in the keys. If you lose your car key, you have two options: call the dealership of your vehicle or call a professional locksmith.

Instructions

1

Locate your cars vehicle identification number (VIN). VINs are recorded in your original vehicle paperwork, on your insurance information, and on your vehicle registration and title. You can also locate your VIN by looking at the bottom left side of your windshield or at the drivers door panel.

2

Call the dealership specific to your vehicles make, or call any professional locksmith. Both are equipped to make replacement keys for vehicles with and without computer chips in the keys.

3

Provide the locksmith/dealership with your VIN. The VIN states the specifics of your car, such as whether or not the key needs programming, and the cut of your key to make it match your car.

4

Pay for your new keys and the service of either the dealership or locksmith.

Vehicles have a wide array of exhaust systems, and muffler sizes also vary. Larger diameter exhaust piping, including the muffler, allows more exhaust to flow out from the engine. However, large exhaust piping will not always increase vehicle performance.

Function

An exhaust system releases gases exhausted out of the engine. Carbon monoxide is a byproduct of exhaust and the reason exhaust systems use a catalytic converter, which decreases the amount of carbon monoxide released into the atmosphere. An exhaust system includes multiple components including headers, piping, catalytic converter, muffler and tail pipe.

Muffler & Piping Diameter

Muffler and piping size determines the flow of exhaust. Overly small piping will restrict exhaust flow and the velocity at which it is expelled. Overly large piping and mufflers will decrease exhaust velocity even though there will be an ample flow. Ideally, muffler and piping diameter design balances the flow and velocity, creating optimal power.

Back Pressure & Engine Performance

Exhaust back pressure directly affects engine top-end performance. A high amount of back pressure decreases exhaust flow by backing up exhaust in the engines air/fuel mixture, reducing available power. Back pressure builds during heavy acceleration. Muffler and exhaust piping size determine the back pressure an engine must fight against.

After you have retrieved the transmission code on your 95 Dodge Intrepid and had the transmission repaired, the code should reset itself. However, this is not always the case. You might see a warning light on the instrument panel even after the vehicle has been repaired. To reset the transmission code and shut off the light, either disconnect the battery or clear the code using an OBD I scan tool. It is better to use the scan tool because disconnecting the battery will erase all of the computers codes and you will have to reset the radio, clock, alarm and other components.

Instructions

1

Plug the OBD I scan tool into the port under the drivers side dashboard near the steering column. Dont force it in. Just turn it until it fits so you dont damage the pins.

2

Put the key into the ignition and turn it to the "On" position, but dont crank the engine. Wait while the scan tool retrieves the codes.

3

Find and select the "Delete Codes" option. This will clear the transmission codes as well as other trouble codes. The computer is now reset. Unplug the scan tool from the port.

4

Start the engine and verify that all warning lights have shut off of the instrument panel.

The Jetta has been manufactured by Volkswagen since 1979. Since its introduction, Volkswagen has equipped the Jetta with a stereo system. The Jetta stereo requires a switched power source and a constant power source to function properly. A switched power source is off when the vehicle is off, which prevents the stereo from draining the battery. A constant power source provides continuous power to the stereo, enabling it to retain station presets and the time.

Instructions

Constant Power

1

Open the hood. Disconnect the black negative wire connected to the battery, using a small crescent wrench.

2

Slide the factory radio from the dash of the Jetta, exposing the wires. This procedure will vary by model year. Consult the owners manual for specific directions.

3

Connect a power wire with in-line fuse to the positive terminal on the Jettas battery, using a small crescent wrench. The in-line fuse should be as close to the battery as possible.

4

Route the power wire from the battery through an existing hole in the rear wall of the engine compartment that separates the engine from the seating area. You may need to drill a hole to do this.

5

Route the power wire through the Jettas dashboard to the rear of the radio and trim the excess length with wire cutters.

6

Locate the yellow constant-power wire coming from the back of the factory stereo.

7

Remove the plastic wire coating from the ends of both the yellow wire from the radio and the power wire with in-line fuse. Connect them by twisting the bare wire ends together and wrapping with electrical tape.

Switched power

8

Locate the red switched-power wire coming from the back of the factory stereo.

9

Remove the plastic wire coating from the ends of the switched power wire and a 5-foot section of stereo wire. Twist the bare ends of both wires together and wrap in electrical tape.

10

Route the stereo wire through the Jettas dashboard to the fuse box.

11

Remove the radio fuse from the fuse box by erring to the diagram in the owners manual.

12

Remove the plastic coating from the end of the stereo wire that is closest to the fuse box and attach the bare wire to a fuse tap.

13

Reinsert the radio fuse and the fuse tap together in the fuse box.

14

Reinstall the radio and connect the negative battery cable. Close the hood.

Smart keys used with Toyota vehicles are electronic devices that allow car owners to unlock, lock and start vehicles without the need of a standard key and key-entry process. The keys emit a radio frequency that is picked up by a vehicle antenna. When the vehicle senses the device is in proximity, the doors are unlocked and the engine can start without the need of a standard key. These devices make Toyota vehicles more technically savvy, but they also come with an array of issues.

Interference

When the smart key is within acceptable vicinity of the vehicle, the antenna on the vehicle will pick up the signal transmitted from the key. This signal allows the car to unlock the door or engine to start. When the key is not within range of the vehicle, the car remains locked. Because electrical signals from the key are sent through the air, similarly to radio frequencies, there is a chance they could encounter interference from other electrical frequencies. It has been reported that gas stations, military bases and airports, all locations with heavy radio frequencies and traffic, can interfere with the functionality of the smart key. When in a location with interference, the smart key may not function remotely and will require the traditional use of the key to unlock and start the vehicle.

Battery Replacement

Smart keys function by emitting a radio frequency to the vehicle, requiring batteries as their source of power. Toyota smart keys remain dormant or powered off until they receive an electrical ping from the vehicle that prompts the key to send a signal back to the vehicle. Theoretically, the battery power of the smart key would only be used when in the process of entering or operating the vehicle. However, numerous electrical devices such as cell phones and Bluetooth devices transmit electrical pings. When a smart key is near other devices that emit pings, the smart key does not remain dormant and uses small amounts of battery power. Over time, the battery power will diminish in the smart key, requiring battery replacement. The more your key is around other electrical devices, the more frequently it will require battery replacement.

Smart Key Replacement

Smart keys are unique to each Toyota vehicle that they are programmed to unlock. A Toyota smart key could not unlock another Toyota vehicle, as the keys are unique to each vehicle, just like standard keys. When a smart key is programmed, the key and the vehicle must both be adjusted and tuned to the same radio frequency. When replacing a smart key, the replacement process is not the same as with traditional keys. A vehicle owner can expect a large bill and a trip to the Toyota dealership to replace a smart key. To replace one, the vehicle requires reprogramming at a dealership and then the new smart key must be programmed to match the frequency and codes of the vehicle. For a smart key replacement, a vehicle owner can expect to pay a few hundred dollars to a Toyota dealership or Toyota authorized service mechanic.

A vehicle exhaust system carries toxic fumes generated by the engine away from the passenger compartment. When an exhaust system leaks, exhaust fumes can flood into the passenger compartment, along high levels of carbon monoxide. Carbon monoxide cause headaches and can even cause passengers in the vehicle to become unconscious and eventually die.

Instructions

1

Raise the vehicle with a floor jack positioned at a secure point recommended by the vehicle owners manual. Stabilize the vehicle by placing a jack stand under each side of the vehicle frame. Lower the floor jack.

2

Remove loose dirt and debris from the area around the exhaust hole with a clean rag.

3

Scuff the area around the hole with 600-grit sandpaper.

4

Spray engine degreaser on the area surrounding the hole. Allow the cleaner to sit on the exhaust for 10 to 15 minutes. Wipe the engine degreaser from the exhaust with a clean rag.

5

Wrap the exhaust pipe starting two inches to one side of the hole. Continue wrapping until you overlap and past the hole by two inches.

6

Cut the exhaust repair tape with a utility knife.

7

Run a plastic squeegee over the applied exhaust repair tape to remove air bubbles and secure the tape to the exhaust.

8

Raise the vehicle with the floor jack. Remove the floor jacks. Lower the floor jack.

A catalytic converter is an important part of the emissions system in your vehicle, but its also a consumable product. Eventually, it will wear out and break, and when it does, it has to be replaced by a new unit. Thats because its illegal in most states to sell used emissions equipment. Its also not easy to replace, as it requires welding into the exhaust system. Removing a catalytic converter from a 1998 Chevrolet Silverado, however, is as easy as cutting the exhaust.

Instructions

1

Raise the vehicle with the jack, and secure it on jack stands. Double-check that the vehicle is secure before you crawl underneath it. Make sure there is enough room for you to fit underneath the truck while using the reciprocating saw. Put on the eye protection and hearing protection.

2

Locate the catalytic converter on the exhaust. Its shaped like a rectangle with rounded corners and has a flat flange down the sides. Cut the exhaust tubing about 2 inches forward of the catalytic converter, using the reciprocating saw with the metal blade.

3

Cut the exhaust tubing about 2 inches behind the catalytic converter, using the reciprocating saw with the metal blade. Then spray the penetrating fluid in the exhaust hanger attached to the catalytic converter, and use the 24-inch pry bar to remove the hanger and, with it, the catalytic converter.

The 22R-E engine appears in several Toyota vehicles with front-wheel drive from 1983 to 1995. This engine designation indicates the engine is the 22nd generation in the R engine family and has electronic fuel injection. The Toyota 22RE engine uses a metal timing chain to keep the crankshaft synchronized with the camshaft. The most critical part of this procedure is aligning the timing chain when you install it on the crankshaft and camshaft sprockets.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the cylinder head bolts with a socket wrench. Insert a pry bar under each end of the cylinder head, and caully pry it away from the engine block. Lift the cylinder head off the mounting dowels, and remove it from the vehicle. Discard the cylinder head gasket, and remove any traces of the cylinder head gasket from the engine block with a gasket scraper.

2

Place a container under the radiator, and open the drain hole to drain the coolant from the radiator into the container. Replace the drain plug, and store the coolant for later use. Remove the mounting bolts from the radiator with a socket wrench, and detach the radiator from the vehicle.

3

Disconnect the oil pan with a socket wrench. Detach the drive belt for the power steering pumps and air conditioning compressor from their respective pulleys, if your vehicle is so equipped. Remove the drive belt for the water pump. Disconnect the cooling fan and its clutch from the engine.

4

Make matching marks on the crankshaft pulley and the crankshaft to ensure you can correctly install the pulley later. Hold the crankshaft in place with a counter-holding bar, and remove the central mounting bolt on the crankshaft pulley with a socket wrench. Detach the pulley from the crankshaft with a gear puller.

5

Disconnect the water bypass pipe from the engine block, and remove the adjusting bar for the cooling fan belt. Remove the bracket for the power steering pump with a socket wrench, if your vehicle is so equipped. Disconnect the water outlet hose from the engine.

6

Remove the mounting bolts from the cover for the timing chain with a socket wrench, and disconnect the cover. Detach the timing chain from the crankshaft sprocket, and remove the timing chain from the camshaft with the camshaft sprocket still attached. Remove the timing chain and camshaft sprocket from the vehicle. Detach the splines for the oil pump and the crankshaft sprocket from the crankshaft.

7

Rotate the crankshaft so that its key points straight up, and slide the crankshaft sprocket onto the crankshaft. Mount the new timing chain to the crankshaft sprocket so the single bright link on the new timing chain aligns with the timing mark on the crankshaft sprocket. Mount the new timing chain to the camshaft sprocket so the link between the two bright links on the timing chain aligns with the timing mark on the camshaft sprocket.

8

Turn the camshaft sprocket counterclockwise by hand to take up the slack in the timing chain. Connect the splines for the oil pump onto the crankshaft with a bearing installing tool. Install new gaskets for the timing chain cover, and place the cover into position. Tighten the 8mm mounting bolts on the timing chain cover to 9 foot-pounds with a torque wrench. Tighten the 10 mm mounting bolts to 29 foot-pounds.

9

Connect the alternator adjusting bar to the timing chain cover, and tighten its mounting bolts to 9 foot-pounds with a torque wrench. Attach the water outlet pipe from the heater to the engine. Mount the crankshaft pulley to the crankshaft, using the marks you made in step four as a guide. Hold the pulley in place with the counter-holding tool, and tighten the central mounting bolt for the crankshaft pulley to 116 foot-pounds.

10

Attach the drive belt for the air conditioning unit, if your vehicle is so equipped. Connect the pulley for the water pump with a socket wrench. Install the air conditioning bracket and compressor if you removed them earlier. Connect the belt for the power steering pump, if your vehicle is so equipped. Install the oil pan.

11

Install the radiator, and ill it with coolant. Replace the cylinder head.

The knock sensor is responsible for monitoring the engine block for abnormal vibrations or internal components running out of balance. The sensor sends the information to the engine computer (ECU) and illuminates check engine light on the car, indicating the need for service. Replacement knock sensors are available from the dealer or most auto-parts stores. You need no special tools to replace your Nissan Pathfinders knock sensor.

Instructions

1

Locate the knock sensor on the back of the engine, just below the intake manifold. The sensor is a round, metal object with a single wire coming off its top.

2

Grasp the wire at the boot with your hand and pull it off the sensor. Set the wire off to one side and place a wrench on the hex portion of the sensor.

3

Rotate the sensor counterclockwise to remove it from the block. Discard the old sensor and thread a new one in its place.

4

Tighten the sensor until it is snug, using the wrench, then push the wire you removed from the old sensor onto the top of the new sensor. Do not use any thread-locking compound on the sensor, as it may affect its sensitivity and operation.

Learning to weld requires hands-on practice. You should always begin with small projects until you develop solid habits involving the metal bead and handling the gun. The best small projects for practice involve anything that does not have a visible weld joint or require structural integrity, such as vehicle floor panels, railing repair and small boxes.

Floor Panels

Most older trucks and cars have rusted-out floor panels. Replacement requires cutting out the panel and installing new metal. The project has a lot of leeway for learning. Since the end result is typically covered with carpet, the aesthetic value of the weld, such as clean and smooth joints, is immaterial. You can cut out damaged sections and practice installing new sections without concern for how the end-result will appear. Floor panels do not have load-bearing properties, making the project ideal for beginners.

Railing Repair

Metal handrails often have loose or removed support beams. A standard rail holds 10 to 20 vertical supports per section. The project requires a person to clamp the supports into place, and weld the beams at the top and bottom. The welds are short and quick, leaving little room for error. The process gives a beginner ample opportunity to learn tack-welding. The seams are visible and the structure does have load requirements; however, the beam is one of many. A poorly done job is offset by the remaining support beams.

Metal Boxes

Making a metal box, such as a curio box or small toolbox, is an ideal project for beginners. The project teaches cutting techniques and welding internal joints--and can be tailored to the level of the welder. A small, simple square box is ideal for beginners. However, a more complex, hand-carried toolbox would help more seasoned veterans improve on established skills. Most small boxes can be made of scrap materials allowing students to learn without wasting material.

The 1990 Ford Ranger 2.3-liter pickup uses a concentric slave cylinder, which is located inside the transmission. This means that the transmission must be removed to replace the slave cylinder. When you remove the transmission, if the clutch is older, it is a good idea to replace it at the same time, simply because of the time required to complete the job. You will need a special clutch coupling removal tool, part number T88T-70522-A, which is available at any Ford dealership.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the battery ground cable and lay it aside, making sure that it does not touch metal. Use the clutch coupling removal tool to disconnect the coupling at the transmission. Slide the white, plastic sleeve towards the slave cylinder with one hand and tug on the tube with the other.

2

Remove the lever, shim and bushing from the transmission with the appropriate sockets. Stuff a rag into the opening to keep dirt and debris from falling into the transmission. Disconnect the clutch master cylinder push rod from the clutch pedal with the appropriate socket.

3

Jack up the Ranger with a floor jack and support it on jack stands. Make a mark on the drive shaft and at the same place on the rear axle flange so you know how to line up the drive shaft when you put it back in. Remove the drive shaft at the axle with the appropriate socket then pull it out of the rear of the transmission. Plug the housing to prevent fluid from leaking out.

4

Unbolt and remove the dust shield from the clutch housing with the appropriate socket. Remove the wires from the starter and lay them aside. Remove the harness for the back-up light (near the starter). Unbolt and remove the starter with the appropriate socket. Unscrew the speedometer cable from the transmission and set it out of the way.

5

Place a block of wood on one of the floor jacks. Slide it under the engine oil pan and jack it up so that the wood just touches the bottom of the oil pan to support the engine. Place a second jack under the transmission. If you are using a lift, use a transmission jack instead.

6

Remove the bell housing bolts and washers with the appropriate socket. Remove the transmission mounting bolts and the damper retaining bolts and nuts with the appropriate socket. Unbolt and remove the cross-member.

7

Lower the transmission jack and, at the same time, work the transmission off its dowel pins. Pull the transmission towards the back of the Ranger then place it on the ground. If you are using a floor jack, you can leave it on the floor jack if it is stable on the jack.

8

Remove the clutch housing-to-transmission nuts then pull the housing assembly off the transmission. Remove the slave cylinder from the input shaft. Slide the new slave cylinder over the input shaft, making sure the tower part of the slave cylinder faces the transmission.

9

Reinstall the clutch housing. The clutch housing has notches that line up with the slave cylinder. Make sure the slave cylinder is located properly in the clutch housing notches. Clean the mating surface of the clutch housing and the rear of the engine, especially around the dowel holes, with rags and carburetor cleaner. If there are burrs that will not wipe off easily, gently go over them with fine-grit sandpaper. Clean the area with carburetor cleaner and rags after sanding.

10

Raise the transmission with the jack. Line up the input shaft splines with the clutch disc splines. Move the transmission in towards the dowels, adjusting the jack as needed. Push the transmission onto the dowels.

11

Install the bell housing bolts and washers. Put the washers in place so that the bolts do not damage the aluminum bell housing. Tighten the bolts to 33 foot-pounds of torque. Move the transmission jack out of the way.

12

Reinstall the starter and tighten the bolts to 17 foot-pounds of torque. Jack the engine up with the floor jack. Reinstall the cross-member, transmission mount and damper. Tighten the bolts firmly. Remove the floor jack from under the engine. Reinstall the drive shaft by pushing it into the transmission extension housing then connecting it to the rear axle flange. Make sure the marks you made earlier line up. Reattach the washer, lock washer and the nuts. Tighten the drive shaft-to-flange nuts to 70 foot-pounds of torque.

13

Reinstall the dust shield. Tighten the dust shield bolts to 8 foot-pounds of torque. Reinstall the starter, the starter wires, the back-up lamp wiring harness and the speedometer cable. Check the transmission fluid level. Add Ford manual transmission lube as needed.

14

Remove the rags from the shifter hole. Reinstall the gearshift lever, shim and bushing with the appropriate sockets. Reinstall the lever-to-cover bolts and the boot retaining screws. Reconnect the master cylinder push rod to the clutch pedal with the appropriate socket. Attach the battery ground cable to the battery ground terminal. Bleed the clutch.

The Mercedes Benz 380SL is a mid-size sedan that was in production from 1981 to 1985 in the United States. The 1984 model had an eight-cylinder 3.8-liter engine with fuel injection. Each cylinder in the engine receives a specific quantity of fuel from its fuel injector at a precise point in the cylinders compression cycle. The installation procedure for fuel injectors in a 1984 Mercedes Benz 380SL also requires you to bleed the fuel system.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench to prevent the accidental discharge of fuel during the procedure. Remove the fuel line and the fuel overflow tubes from the fuel injectors with a flare nut wrench.

2

Turn the each fuel injector counterclockwise with a socket wrench, and remove the injector from the cylinder head. Discard the washer for the fuel injector.

3

Mount a new washer onto each fuel injector. Install the new fuel injector to its cylinder head with a socket wrench.

4

Connect the fuel overflow tubes and the fuel line to the fuel injectors with a flare nut wrench.

5

Open the bleed screw on the fuel rail with a screw driver, and attach the hose for a hand pump to the bleed valve. Evacuate the air from the fuel rail with the pump, and tighten the bleed screw.

6

Connect the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench. Start the engine and check for fuel leaks.

When the exhaust manifold studs break on a Ford F150, the driver will notice a puttering sound on cold start-up because the backside of the exhaust manifold will vibrate, smacking into the engine head. Eventually the oxygen sensors can receive erroneous readings due to an increase in the oxygen passing over the sensor. This could possibly lead to engine performance problems from the change in fuel trim values. In extreme cases your check-engine light might pop on. With the use of pneumatic tools and a long afternoon you can take care of problem.

Instructions

Set Up

1




Determine which manifold is leaking by looking on the backside, closest to the passenger compartment, with a flashlight, for broken studs or visible black soot.

2




Evaluate condition of the nuts and bolts around the manifolds and the exhaust Y pipe, looking for rust. Spray all nuts and studs on the manifolds with a penetrating oil lubricant, such WD40.

3

Gather all of the tools and parts you will need to finalize the project so you dont need to worry about going out to get a tool or part once your Ford F150 is torn apart.

Preparation

4

Jack up the front of the Ford F150 onto jack stands.

5




Remove the wheel on the side where the manifold is leaking, using a socket and ratchet.

6




Remove plastic wheel wells, using ratchets and a pry bar.

Removal

7

Remove the four exhaust nuts that connect the Y pipe to the exhaust manifolds. Depending on the level of rust degradation on the nuts, it might be necessary to use extractor sockets to remove.

8

Remove the exhaust gas recirculation, or EGR, tube if you working on the left side of the manifold. Typically it will be so rusted you will need to cut the tube, using the metal hacksaw, as close to the manifold as possible. Otherwise skip to the next step.

9

Remove the all eight nuts from the exhaust manifold. When removing, dont be surprised if the stud turns and is removed with the nut or breaks off as you turn. Typically, the back nuts are the ones that will break off due to rust and fatigue. Then, remove any remaining exhaust studs that did not come off with the nuts.

10

Remove the exhaust manifold and discard the gasket.

11

Remove any broken studs by attempting to turn with extractor bits and a ratchet. If you are unable to extract, use the 90-degree drill, perably with counter-clockwise drill bits to assist in removal of studs, drilling a hole into the center of the stud, which might release it. Increase drill bit size, as necessary, to remove. Once the layer of rust on the stud is removed from the seat of the hole in the engine head, the stud will freely turn out.

EGR

12

Remove the top portion of the EGR tube from the EGR valve with a wrench, if you are working on the left manifold.

13

Replace the manifold if the EGR tube and nipple are so heavily rusted that you cant remove them.

14

Access the amount of rust and wear on the exhaust manifold. Replace if there is heavy rust build up on the face or clean by using the drill grinder.

Installation

15

Install new EGR tube and nipple if you are working on the left manifold.

16

Position new manifolds in place, over the gaskets, while lightly turning in the studs by hand.

17

Tighten the nuts top to bottom, right to left. In other words: tighten the top right, then the bottom right; tight the second from the right on the top followed by the second on the right bottom, and so on. Always start from the side closest to the back side of the engine.

18

Put the Y pipe back in place and tighten the bolts.

19

Reconnect the EGR valve to the exhaust manifold upper fitting.

Vehicles are equipped with key codes, which are number sequences that link a key to its specific vehicle. If you need a new key for your vehicle, youll need to have the key code to create your key; without it, you wont be able to start your car. Key codes are noted in the paperwork given to you when you purchased your car. If you cannot find the key code in your paperwork, dont panic because your vehicle identification number contains your key code as well.

Instructions

1

Contact your local car dealership or a professional locksmith to request a new key for your vehicle. Both will need to make sure they have the correct type of blank key for the make and model of your vehicle.

2

Provide the dealership or locksmith with your key code. If you cant find your key code, you can provide them with your vehicle identification number (VIN). Your VIN is located on your vehicles paperwork, your car insurance paperwork, and your title and registration paperwork. It is also located on the drivers door panel and inside the windshield on the bottom left corner, visible from outside your car.

3

Schedule a time to go to your dealership and get your new key, or for your locksmith to come to you with your new keys. You will be asked to provide some form of proof that you are the owner of the vehicle, such as your registration or insurance card. Pay for the service provided to you and for your new keys.

A timing light uses a strobe flash to determine the ignition timing of a car, which is the frequency of spark plugs firing. The timing light illuminates marks that the car manufacturer has placed on the engines crankshaft pulley or flywheel. The position of the marks when the engine is running indicates the timing of the spark in relation to piston position. The Equus Xenon, also called the Innova, uses a xenon bulb to read settings and connects to the spark plug with an inductive pickup. While timing analysis can be performed at home, a repair manual for the vehicle make and model is necessary to determine if the timing is set correctly.

Instructions

1

Locate the timing mark and erence pointer, which are typically located on the crankshaft pulley, vibration damper or on the flywheel. Make sure the timing mark and pointer are clean and visible, using chalk to define the marks if necessary.

2

Connect the timing light battery clips to the vehicle battery, placing the red clip on the positive (+) battery terminal and the black clip on the negative terminal. Attach one end of the supplied inductive pickup leads to the bottom of the timing light handle and the other part to the number one spark plug cable.

3

Start the engine and run it until normal operating temperature is reached. Turn on the timing light by pressing the "On/Off" switch, and the timing light will begin flashing. Adjust the timing light barrel to direct the light toward the timing marks.

4

Note the position of the rotating timing mark in relation to the erence pointer. If the readings are within the range advised in the vehicles repair manual, the ignition timing is correct. If the timing reading is not in range, an adjustment or part replacement may be necessary

5

Press the "On/"Off switch to turn the light off after use, then turn the car engine off and remove the battery clips.

In order to remove and reset the air bag light, also known as the SRS light on a BMW, a reset tool is needed. The Service Light Plus airbag reset tool, which is available for purchase at most auto parts stores, is designed to work on the BMW E36 and is easy to use by connecting it to the BMWs data link connector, located under the vehicles dashboard beside the hood release latch.

Instructions

1

Park the BMW on level ground.

2

Attach the air bag reset tool to the BMWs data link connector, under the dashboard.

3

Switch the BMWs ignition on.

4

Anticipate for the tools screen to illuminate and select "BMW" on the screen with the scroll buttons on the tool and press the reset tools "OK" button.

5

Use the scroll buttons to select the "E36" model and press the "OK" button.

6

Use the scroll buttons to select "Reset of Airbag" and press the "OK" button.

7

Wait for the message "Reset OK." Switch the BMWs ignition off and remove the air bag reset tool.

In the early 1900s, people had to start their vehicles by turning a large crank at the front of the vehicle. In 1911, Cadillac approved Charles F. Ketterings design of the electric starter for its 1912 model year cars. Replacing a starter can be a difficult task in some vehicles, and it can be frustrating when the car does not start after all of your work. There are four main reasons for your car not cranking when you just got a new starter for it.

Incorrect Wiring

There are three wires that connect to the rear of the starter solenoid on most cars. If you forgot to label these wires and incorrectly reinstalled them, the starter will not work at all. Double-check the wiring of the starter against a wiring schematic for the starting system and adjust it, as needed.

Electrical Shorts

Any time you replace any electrical component on your vehicle that has constant voltage from the battery, you must disconnect the battery prior to servicing it. If you left the battery connected while installing the starter, it is possible for you to unintentionally touch the power and ground cables together. This may cause a short inside the battery or in the wiring, resulting in the car not starting. Check the voltage coming into the starter, using a voltmeter. If little or no voltage comes into the starter, inspect the wires and battery for shorts.

Misdiagnosis

It is possible that the starter was not the problem to begin with. If not correctly diagnosed, it is easy to mistake many other problems with starter failure. Some problems that result in similar symptoms as a failed starter include, but are not limited to: failed ignition switch, discharged battery, loose battery cables, security system failure, failed starter solenoid (if separate) or damaged flywheel or flexplate.

Faulty Starter

When the manufacturer builds a new starter or rebuilds an old starter, it tests the starters prior to shipping them to retail stores or end-users. This testing typically catches any failed starters prior to shipment, but human error does allow for a small percentage of failed starters to ship out. After checking the areas described in the three previous sections, remove the starter and take it to a local parts store to have it tested. In the future, have all electro-mechanical components tested before installing them.

There are only two bulbs in the taillight assembly on the 2002 Ford Explorer. The bottom bulb is the reverse/backup light, and the top bulb is the combination brake light and taillight. Two filaments are inside the bulb. The taillight comes on when the headlight switch is placed in the "On" position. The second filament lights up when the brakes are applied. This makes the bulb much brighter to warn vehicles behind the Explorer that the vehicle is braking.

Instructions

1

Raise the rear lift gate of the Explorer with the vehicle parked, the engine off and the headlight switch in the "Off" position.

2

Locate the two (upper and lower) taillight assembly retaining screws on the painted section of the side rail on the left (drivers side) assembly. Remove the screws with the screwdriver.

3

Pull the assembly outward away from the rear of the Explorer. The wire harnesses of the rear lights are attached to the sockets of the bulbs, but the assembly can be pulled out far enough to obtain access to the bulbs.

4

Turn the socket of the taillight/brake light counter-clockwise about 1/3 of a turn. Pull the taillight/brake light out of the taillight assembly.

5

Pull the taillight/brake light straight out of its socket, and replace it with a 3157 automotive bulb.

6

Reinsert the taillight socket into the assembly by aligning the tabs on the socket to the notches in the assembly, then twist the socket clockwise until it locks into place.

7

Replace the taillight assembly to the body of the Explorer, then replace and tighten the retaining screws.

The Ford Mustang was designed as an American muscle car, one that is meant to be raced. The H-pipe exhaust can help the driver of a Mustang enhance the horsepower of the car. H-pipes provide a combination of perfect air-flow and performance to deliver some extra power to the vehicle.

Instructions

Out with the Old

1

Lift the back of the vehicle with floor jacks and place it onto jack stands.

2

Cut the tailpipe right behind the muffler and pull out the tailpipes. The tailpipe will not come out in one piece. It might have to be swung around before you can remove it.

3

Remove the bolts connecting the muffler to the H-pipe and remove the muffler from the rubber hangers. Spray the hangers with WD-40 if they appear to be sticky, as this could help make the job a little smoother.

4

Remove the bolts that connect the old H-pipe and headers. Using a U-joint on your socket can be helpful, as the area is difficult to maneuver in.

5

Slide the H-pipe from the hangers. Use WD-40 when needed. Remove the O2 sensors from the old pipes.

In with the New

6

Slide the new H-pipe into the rubber hangers. If needed you can replace the rubber hangers, but in most cases these will be reusable. Be sure to line up the pipes with the header flanges and studs.

7

Bolt the new H-pipe loosely into place and hold the H-pipe in place with a floor jack while installing the rest of the exhaust system.

8

Install the pipes that attach to the H-pipe.

9

Slide the muffler into the hangers and use exhaust clamps to hold it into place.

10

Slide the new tailpipe into the rubber hangers and tighten all the bolts in the exhaust system once everything is lined up correctly. Install the new O2 sensors and plug in the O2 extensions.

Chevrolets 454 Big Block engine has been through several phases over its production span. The engine began as a major player in the muscle car wars of the 1970s, gaining notoriety for its ability to generate serious horsepower and torque. Displacing 7.4 liters, this V8 was never intended to be fuel efficient, but rather was paired with a four barrel carburetor for maximum output.

Background

In the height of the muscle car era, as car manufacturers focused on designing engines that were larger and faster, Chevrolet introduced the 454. This throaty powerplant was reserved for high performance upgrades on Camaros, Chevelles and Corvettes. The 454 especially enhanced the reputation of the Chevelle as a muscle car.

Shortly after its introduction, climbing gas prices and increased regulation on auto emissions influenced auto makers to focus on smaller engines. The 454 was transferred to Chevys truck line and used in its heavy-duty half and three-quarter ton pickups. In the mid-1990s the engine was redesigned and renamed the Vortec 7400, before being phased phased out of production in 2000.

Performance Specifications

The 454 was available as an LS5, LS6 and LS7 in the 1970s. The most powerful version available to the public was the 1970 LS6. When installed in the Chevelle or Camaro, this engine could deliver 450 horsepower at 5,600 rpm. In the Chevelle, the LS6 had a maximum torque of 500 ft-lbs at 3,200 rpm. Camaros could also achieve this torque at 3,600 rpm. The horsepower was decreased when the 454 was transferred to pickup trucks. When the 454 was first introduced as the Vortec 7400 in 1996, it was rated at 290 horsepower.

Engine Specifications

This 7.4 liter engine is one of the larger engines made by Chevrolet. The 1970 to 1974 high performance versions had a 4.00-inch stroke and 4.251-inch bore. The timing order is 18436572, with a distributor cap that spins clockwise. Engine oil is the primary lube or sealer, and is used on the main caps, connecting rod bolts, cylinder heads, oil pump and pan, timing cover, valve cover, centerbolt and on the bellhousing between the transmission and the engine block.

The Cadillac DeVille is a top-selling luxury sedan, but like all cars, it may experience some common problems. One such problem is the gearshift getting stuck in "Park" because of a faulty part known as the "Brake Transmission Shift Interlock" or "Brake Shift Interlock Solenoid." This component tells the car that the brake is not engaged and it locks the shifter into place. One fix for the 1993 Cadillac DeVille is to manually manipulate the frozen solenoid to unlock it.

Instructions

1

Start the engine and let the 1993 DeVille warm up. On some GM cars, including the Cadillac line, once the engine has warmed up, the gearshift may be operable. Also, check to ensure the brake pedal is working by pressing down on it. If warming up the car doesnt resolve the problem, go on to the next step.

2

Manually trip the brake shift interlock solenoid. Start the car. Lift the rubber panel cover under the ashtray and open the under-dash compartment door.

3

Shine a flashlight into the under-dash compartment and look for an orange lever tab. Push orange lever tab toward the hood of the DeVille to override the automatic lock manually. Listen for a click that indicates the solenoid has been released.

4

Depress the brake pedal again and attempt to shift the Cadillac into gear.

You dont need a lot of time to replace a carburetor. If you notice that your vehicle hesitates during acceleration, has problems starting in cold weather, or your engine stalls frequently, then carburetor repair may be the solution in order to prevent further damage to your engine.



Carburetors function to mix proper amounts of air and fuel to promote the viscosity of fuel. Without air, engine fuel becomes sluggish, making it difficult for fuel to circulate to the engine. Because the cost of replacing a carburetor can be expensive, beware of the signs of the need for carburetor repair.

Instructions

1

Remove air cleaner assembly from engine. Remove air box and tuning, then remove hoses and tubing leading to carburetor. Wrap tape around hoses and tubes to mark proper location for return.

2

Remove nuts and bolts of carburetor with wrenches from the intake manifold.

3

Remove old carburetor gasket from intake manifold.

4

Clean gasket area. Use degreaser and rag to clean gasket area. Spray degreaser directly to surface and allow degreaser to work. Prep area for new gasket to secure a proper fit.

5

Apply gasket sealer to both sides of the new gasket and place new gasket in proper position.

6

Attach new carburetor and use screwdriver and wrench to secure it to the intake manifold.

7

Notice the locations marked on the masking tape wrapping the hoses and tubing of the carburetor. Reconnect hoses and tubing to proper positions according to the locations marked on the tape.

8

Pour a small amount of gasoline into carburetor and start the engine. Pump the gas pedal a few times to get gas flowing to the carburetor.

9

Replace air cleaner assembly and take a short test drive on the highway to make sure carburetor is operating. After returning from the highway, let car idle for a few minutes to check for leaks.

There are a few reasons why your transmission could fail on your 1997 Ford Explorer, but none is more common than the transmission fluid being too low. Many people think that they have a major issue with their transmission when it starts slipping. You can troubleshoot your transmission before you decide to take it in for major repair.

Instructions

1

Idle the vehicle for about 15 minutes until the engine is warm.

2

Park the vehicle and set the parking brake. Let the vehicle remain running.

3

Lift the hood on you Explorer and locate the transmission filler tube and dipstick. It is generally located on the drivers side of the engine in the rear. It will be labeled with the word "Transmission."

4

Pull out the dip stick and wipe it with the paper towel. Look at the lines on the dipstick to find "Add" and "Full Hot." Replace the dipstick into the tube and pull out again to check the level. A low transmission level can cause major problems. If the fluid is full and it smells burnt, then your transmission could need a major rebuild or replacement.

5

Turn off the vehicle and let it cool down.

6

Slide under the vehicle with the flashlight and find the transmission. You will know the transmission because you will see the dipstick tube attached to it. Shine your flashlight all around the transmission and look for any wire connections that have become detached. You can also check to see if you have any major leaks.

The Pontiac Grand Am has many parts incorporated in its design. Locating a large part is simple because it stands out. However, if youre trying to locate the Powertrain Control Module, this may cause a level of difficulty.

Significance of PCM

The PCM is an electrical computer that stabilizes the many sensors that your Pontiac Grand Am has. Without the PCM, things such as coolant malfunctions and overheating would occur.

Location of the PCM

The PCM on any Pontiac Grand Am is located behind the glove box. You must remove the screws attaching the glove box to physically see the PCM. Use caution if youre going to remove the glove box door.

Problem With Your PCM

If you are aware that the PCM is damaged or malfunctioning on your Pontiac Grand Am, see a professional mechanic or Pontiac car dealer about fixing it. Any electrical component of a vehicle must be handled by a professional to ensure safety of both you and your vehicle.

The Chrysler Town & Country is the marque minivan in the Chrysler stable. Featuring luxury options typically not available on other minivans in its class, the Town & Country is popular with both families and the reviewers at Edmunds. Proper maintenance and replacement of your Town & Countrys headlamps is a painless process that can be completed in minutes without tools.

Instructions

1

Turn off the engine of your Town & Country and ensure the light selector is in the "Off" position.

2

Raise the hood by pulling the lever under the dash and releasing the emergency catch located at the front of the hood. Prop the hood open.

3

Detach the connector from the headlamp by depressing the tabs on each side and pulling the connector straight back.

4

Remove the headlamp by rotating the bulb counterclockwise then pulling it out of the headlamp assembly.

5

Insert the new bulb into the headlamp assembly and lock in place by rotating it clockwise.

6

Reattach the electric connector to the bulb by gently pushing on the headlamp. Repeat these steps for the other headlamp if necessary.

In the golden age, before electric starters, when every motorcycle needed to be literally stomped into life with a booted, right foot, old school bikers regularly built their own motorcycles, made their own parts and imagined their own tools. Many of these tools were improvised, on the spot, in the middle of unexpectedly difficult repairs to solve some problem. Their manufacture and use became shop lore. Here are three classic examples: the specialty angled wrench; the magnetized screwdriver of exactly the right size; and the "spare tire" club bikers can fold up and carry in their bags. These examples of things men once did are dangerous and are described here for entertainment purposes only.

Instructions

1

Heat the handle of an appropriately sized combination box/open end wrench with a propane or oxyacetylene torch. Heat the handle about two inches, or an appropriate distance, from the box end. Heat until the spot turns dull red.

2

Put the box end in a vise and bend the wrench 90 degrees. Allow the wrench to cool. Remove it from the vise.

3

Heat a spot on the same wrench about 1/2 inch from the box end until it also glows dull red. Put the hot end in the vise and bend the wrench 90 degrees so that the box end is once again parallel to the wrench handle but offset 1 inches.

4

Allow the wrench to cool. Remove it from the vise and use it to turn otherwise inaccessible nuts in impossible to reach places on your motorcycle.

5

Remove the seat from your motorcycle by loosening the seat bolt with an Allen wrench and access your motorcycle battery. Disconnect both battery cables.

6

Tightly wrap the exact screwdriver you need magnetized with about two feet of insulated, copper wire. Leave about two inches of wire on each end unwrapped.

7

Strip and straighten each end of the insulated wire. Note the approximate distance between the positive and negative terminals on your motorcycle battery. Arrange the stripped ends of the insulated wire wrapped around the screwdriver so they are about the same distance apart as the terminals on your battery.

8

Put on sunglasses. Put on leather gloves. Wrap the handle of the screwdriver with clean, oil free rags.

9

Touch one end of the wire to the positive battery terminal. Boldly touch the other end of the wire to the negative terminal.

10

Drop the screwdriver when it becomes too hot to hold or when the rags begin to smoke after about five seconds. Allow the screwdriver to cool.

11

Remove the insulated wire. Use the magnetized screw driver to retrieve lost screws and bolts in otherwise inaccessible nooks and crannies of your motorcycle.

12

Crimp two threaded hose fittings with a crimper tool to both ends of a five foot section of rubber air hose. Screw tire nozzles, like the ones in gas stations, to both fittings.

13

Pack the hose in your saddlebags when riding across the Mojave or other relatively unpopulated regions with your friends. Use the hose to siphon air from your friends motorcycle tires when you develop a slow leak.

The outside door handle on the drivers side of the car may be removed because it is being replaced, repaired, or the car door itself is undergoing repair. Most amateur mechanics may find that removing a car door handle is easy, but it can be difficult to remember how to reinstall one. Reinstalling the outside drivers side door handle shouldnt take more than a half hour if the door panel has already been taken off on the inside. With a few simple connections the door handle can be secured to the door and used.

Instructions

1

Remove the door panel as necessary. Because you are reinstalling the door handle the panel is probably already off from the inside of the door. If the panel is not off, take a screwdriver and pop the panel out of place.

2

Slip the plastic retaining clip at the end of the rod onto the door handle. Slide the door handle onto the rods in the door so that one connects to the door latch and one connects to the lock.

3

Press the door handle into place on the drivers side door.

4

Secure the door handle in place with nuts and a socket wrench. Tighten the nuts so that the handle is firmly in place.

5

Shut the door and open it to make sure the door handle has been correctly installed and works.

6

Reassemble the inside of the door. Snap or screw the door panel back into place with a screwdriver or the included plastic clips. Replace any speakers, window leavers, or handles.

Dual exhaust systems let your engine run cooler, decreasing the inherent back pressure and increasing horsepower for better performance. As the exhaust exits the car more freely, you will notice faster acceleration, stronger passing power and a terrific sound. As long as the muffler and pipes in the exhaust system are installed properly, your car will almost feel brand new.

Instructions

1

Select parts that are sized properly for your car. Higher-quality exhaust systems take advantage of mandrel-bent pipes and mimic the look of the original car parts. Your local auto shop may build custom dual exhaust systems, but they are probably created with generic parts and fit poorly.

2

Pick a kit that includes all clamps, hangers and hardware, so you will not be searching for pieces to complete the installation.

3

Stop blowing gaskets by using a steel donut gasket when connecting the manifold. The steel resists heat better than other gaskets, while sealing the pipe and manifold together.

4

Position exhaust pipes to clear both the floorpan and the driveshaft by at least 1 inch. When finalizing the setting, remember that the shaft moves up and down with rear axle, and the pipes must clear it completely.

5

Use factory muffler positioning to make most exhaust systems a simple bolt-on installation. If you place your muffler differently, the pipes may need to be bent accordingly. Hanging mufflers higher may require you to drill into the floorpan to hang them.

6

Mount tailpipe hangers near the frame rail to prevent the pipes from noticeably rattling. Brackets should face the front of the car in most cases. Your exhaust kit should come with the proper hangers, but you may have to have a few self-tapping bolts on hand.

7

Check the clearance before completely tightening all bolts. Things move as you attach other parts, so make sure there is still a 1-inch clearance. Rotate the rear axle to make sure the driveshaft doesnt rub against the muffler.

On an automobile, the intake manifold is mounted to the engine block above the cylinder or port openings. Older intake manifolds are made of cast iron, but most new ones are plastic or die-cast aluminum.

Purpose on Older Engines

On older vehicles the intake manifold delivers the right mixture of air and fuel evenly to each of the cylinders. Heat vaporizes this mixture, providing optimum delivery in mist form.

Location on Older Engines

On an older engine, both sides are flanked by the valve covers, and its top is partially obstructed from view by the carburetor and air cleaner mounted above.

Purpose on Newer Engines

New engines have replaced the carburetor with a tuned-port injection system. Because these deliver the fuel directly to the ports, air and fuel no longer need to be mixed in the intake manifold. On these engines the purpose of the intake manifold is to deliver the proper amount of air to each of the ports, where it will be mixed with the fuel.

Location on Newer Engines

On newer engines, the intake manifold is connected to the ports on the engine. Hoses attached to the intake manifold are to operate vacuum systems such as brakes, cruise control and the air-conditioning. (See References 1)

The 2003 Cadillac CTS features three brake lights, as do all modern vehicles. The "neon" third brake light sits on the vehicles trunk lid and not in the back window bay as is common in many other cars. If you want to install the light yourself, it should only take a few moments. If you have not worked with taking apart any pieces of a cars body, however, you may want to let a professional take care of the replacement.

Instructions

1

Remove the cover that surrounds the license plate area and runs along the bottom of the light assembly. Use a small flat head screwdriver to start the removal, taking care to not scratch the paint on the cover.

2

Use the screwdriver to pop the light assembly out of its retaining clips. Be especially caul when loosening the light assembly, since it can crack if you apply too much force.

3

Press on the clip on the light assemblys plug that is joined with the wiring harness inside the trunk. Place the old light assembly to the side on a soft cloth.

4

Insert the plug on the new light assembly into the socket in the wiring harness. Line the tabs on the back of the light assembly with the retaining clips on the trunk lid.

5

Press the light assembly into place gently, listening for the retaining clips to snap. Make sure the light assembly does not jiggle at all; otherwise, remove it and install it again.

6

Press the cover that goes around the license plate area and underneath the light assembly back into place so its retaining clips snap into place. Make sure the cover does not jiggle when you press on it.

The Chrysler Sebring was a rental fleet special (to put it favorably). Chrysler made the Sebring with lowest bidder parts and the minimum amount of research and development, which may have led to Chryslers dire financial straits. Maintenance on Chrysler Sebrings is an unfortunate constant if you own one, as they are not made well in any sense of the word. The control arms in the Sebring support the steering knuckle and suspension components and are only on the front wheels.

Instructions

1

Park the Sebring Convertible somewhere flat and out of traffic. Empty the car out to make it lighter to jack up. Place the car jack under the corner that you want to replace the control arm on. Jack the corner up and slide in a jack stand to keep it up. Use the tire iron to remove the lug nuts from the wheel and then slide the wheel off the steering knuckle.

2

Pull the retaining pin out of the ball joint on the underside of the steering knuckle. Use a pair of pliers and a flat-head screwdriver as a pry bar. Unbolt the ball joint nut and then pry the ball joint out of the steering knuckle. Unbolt the two bolts on the lower end of the left arm of the control arm from the steering knuckle. Repeat the unbolting on the right arm of the control arm.

3

Unbolt the upper part of the control arm and then pull it down from the cars frame. Slide in the new control arm and bolt it onto the frame. Slide in the steering knuckle and thread in the two bolts on each side first to hold the knuckle in place. Tighten the bolts down with a wrench once the knuckle is properly aligned. Push the ball joint back in and bolt it into place. Slide the retaining pin back in and reattach the tire. Lower the Sebring off the jack stand.

A hydraulic valve lifter lets the valve train ride on a cushion of oil, and automatically adjusts the valve clearance to compensate for changes in engine temperatures. Dirt and sludge build up over time, and the lifter parts gradually wear out. When the vehicle sits for a time, such as overnight, the oil inside the lifters leaks out. When you start the vehicle, the valves tap and rattle until the oil pressure builds up. Removing the valve lifters requires the disassembly of major engine components and caul attention to details.

Instructions

1

Remove the air cleaner, carburetor or throttle body injector, fuel lines and linkages. Remove any vacuum lines or electrical connectors attached to the intake manifold. Label all wires or vacuum hoses to ensure they can be put back into their original locations later. Place a shop rag over the exposed intake manifold where the carburetor or throttle body was removed. Ensure no dirt or other items fall into the intake manifold.

2

Remove the valve covers and set them aside. Loosen the valve adjuster lock nuts and turn the adjuster screws counterclockwise on all valves. The valve rockers should be loose enough to rotate sideways using only your fingers.

3

Drain the radiator coolant into a drain pan. Remove the intake manifold bolts and lift the intake manifold off the engine. Clean any residual gasket material or dirt off the mating surfaces of the manifold and cylinder heads using a scraper or putty knife and shop rags. Use caution and work caully to ensure no dirt or gasket material falls into the exposed engine or cylinder head intake ports.

4

Rotate the valve rocker arms to the side and remove the push rods. Arrange the push rods in order of removal to ensure they can be replaced in exactly the same position later. Remove the valve lifters from the bore using a strong magnet. Organize the lifters in the same way as the push rods, keeping them in order.

5

Inspect the bottom of the lifters for excessive wear. A lifter that is scratched or gouged indicates a worn out camshaft that should be replaced.

DynoJets Power Commander has been a popular tool for backyard mechanics who want to fine-tune their engines fuel injection settings, particularly for track applications. The device connects to a motorcycles wiring harness and allows the user to load in preset mappings for fuel injection and ignition settings. Installing a Power Commander involves connecting the device directly to your bikes Electronic Control Module -- a job best left to a qualified mechanic if youre not familiar with engine electronics. Once connected, however, the Power Commander is a simlpe device to operate, allowing for hassle-free tuning of your machine.

Instructions

1

Hold down all three buttons on the face of the Power Commander unit and turn on the bikes ignition. Release all the buttons once the engine is idling normally. The Power Commander manual recommends waiting approximately 20 seconds before making any adjustments.

2

Note the position of the indicator light on the "Fuel Richness Gauge." The three buttons along the bottom of the Power Commander represent the "High," "Mid" and "Low" areas of your engines rpm range. As you press each button, the Fuel Richness Gauge will display a quantity for each of the three areas.

3

Tap the button once to increase the richness of the fuel mixture, noting the increasing level on the Fuel Richness Gauge. Increasing the richness will increase acceleration and throttle response, but may also increase wear on the engine. Hold each button down to decrease the fuel richness where necessary.

4

Think about how your engine reacts at different speeds. If your bike accelerates sluggishly from a standing start but you encounter an unmanageable burst of speed at around 50 miles per hour, increase the "Low" meter and decrease the "Mid." This should redistribute the power more evenly across the engines range.

5

Allow the bike to idle for another 15 to 20 seconds after completing your adjustments. This will cause the Power Commander to save any changes you have made.

Crimping is the process of connecting a wire to a terminal. Since this is where the wire comes to an end, sometimes crimping is erred to as terminating. A wide variety of crimps are available. They are classified by how they connect to the wire. Selecting a type of crimp will depend greatly on the application. A crimp used in your washing machine will likely not be suitable for your car.

Types of Crimps

There are three basic styles of wire crimps. These include the quick-connect, the ring and the spade. Each of these styles has a number of design variations that affect how the wire is connected to the terminal. In a closed-barrel style, the stripped end of the wire is inserted into a cylindrical end of the crimp. In an open-barrel style, the end of the terminal is shaped like a "U" and allows the wire to pass from the top down. Crimps can be further classified by the shape they make after they have been closed. Shapes include the "O," the "B," and the "U." The "B" crimp is most commonly used in straight wire applications. The "B" can be used in insulated applications as well. However, the "O" is often perred and even required as it does not damage any of the internal insulation.

Types of Crimping Tools

The ratchet style and pliers style are the two basic styles of crimping tools. You can also find combination and specialty tools. Regardless of which type you select, the crimping tool will be classified as either cup to cup or point to cup. This ers to the teeth in the biting edge. Cup-to-cup tools form a small "O" when squeezed together, while point-to-cup tools have teeth that fit into cutouts on the opposite side.

The Four Rules of a Good Crimp

Crimping can be one of the most efficient means of terminating your wires. However, if it is done incorrectly, crimping will cause failure in the whole system. According to Molex, an expert crimping company in Lisle, Ill., the following four rules will prevent crimping problems:

"1.Choose the right connector for your application requirements."

"2. Use the crimp tooling specified by the terminal manufacturer."

"3. Properly adjust and maintain the crimp tooling in good working order."

"4. Periodically replace the parts that displace metal (e.g. conductor and insulation punches, anvils and terminal cutters)."

Most states require the use of a catalytic converter installed after the exhaust manifold, in line with the exhaust. The catalytic converter--often called the "cat"--acts as a filter and creates better emissions out of the end of the exhaust. Catalytic converters get clogged up over time and need to be replaced with a new one. If not, then the car will run poorly and wont be able to pass emissions testing. First though, you have to remove the catalytic converter.

Instructions

1

Pop the hood. Remove the air-intake tubing from the engine bay using the flat-head screwdriver. Pull the air box up and out of the engine bay. Unbolt the exhaust manifold at the front of the car from the forward exhaust section--which is the section that contains the catalytic converter--using the 3/8-inch ratchet, extension and sockets.

2

Lift up the front of the car with the jack. Put it down on the jack stands and then remove the jack.

3

Locate the oxygen sensors on the forward section of the exhaust, which are cylinders, one-half inch by three inches, that have electrical connections on them. Unplug the harness from the oxygen sensor using your hands.

4

Unbolt the forward section of the exhaust, including the catalytic converter, from the rest of the exhaust using the 3/8-inch ratchet and socket. Lower the forward exhaust section away from the car.