Fix It

The steering gear in a 1998 Dodge Ram is the box that mounts onto the frame of the truck and connects the steering column to the steering linkage. The gears used to make the connection can wear down to the point that they are no longer effective. To fix the issue, you need to rebuild the steering gear or replace it entirely. First though, you have to remove it from the frame.

Instructions

1

Park the Ram with the front wheels pointing straight. Crawl under the front of the Ram. Remove the power steering lines running to the steering gear with a line wrench.

2

Pop the hood. Unbolt the steering coupler from the steering gear with the 3/8-inch ratchet and socket. Unbolt the pitman arm bolt from the bottom of the steering box with the 3/8-inch ratchet and socket. Remove the pitman arm from the steering gear using the pitman arm puller.

3

Unbolt the steering gear from the frame with the 3/8-inch ratchet and socket and an open-end wrench. Take the steering gear off the frame and out from under the Ram.

The Dodge Caravan is a family minivan made by Chrysler since 1984. The Grand Caravan has a longer wheelbase than the Caravan and most often has a 6-cylinder, 3.3-liter engine. The water pump in the 2003 Dodge Grand Caravan is attached to the front of the engine and receives power from the engine with a belt and pulley. The replacement of the water pump in this vehicle also requires you to drain the radiator.

Instructions

1

Allow the engine to cool completely to ensure the coolant will not cause injury. Remove the negative battery cable with a socket wrench to prevent anyone from starting the engine inadvertently.

2

Place a drain pan beneath the drain hole for the radiator. Remove the radiator drain plug to drain the coolant into the drain pan. Replace the radiator drain plug.

3

Disconnect the right splash shield from the engine with a socket wrench and remove the accessory drive belt. Unfasten the mounting bolts for the water pump pulley and position the pulley between the drive hub and the water pump. Remove the mounting bolts for the water pump and detach the water pump from the engine.

4

Install a new seal into the housing groove on the new water pump. Mount the new water pump to the engine and torque the mounting bolts to 105 in.-lbs. with a torque wrench. Fasten the mounting bolts for the water pump pulley and tighten them to 250 in.-lbs. Turn the water pump manually to ensure it rotates freely.

5

Install the accessory drive belt and right splash shield for the engine. Connect the cable for the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench. Fill the radiator with coolant and start the engine. Check and correct any leaks in the cooling system.

Purchasing mechanic tools wholesale is a way to save yourself some valuable time and money. Several tool supply companies offer brand name products at wholesale pricing as a way to entice professional and amateur handymen to purchase their products. Additionally, many of these wholesale dealers offer online shops that add to the convenience of shopping for tools.

Master Wholesale, Inc.

Master Wholesale, Inc. has been in the wholesale tool business since the early 1900s, and began selling their products online in 1995, according to Master Wholesale. The company claims to provide the best prices and availability for any job, no matter how big or small. They offer brand name mechanic tools by companies such as Allied, Grey Pneumatic, Fuller and Champion at discount prices, and often times run various specials and closeout pricing on certain inventory, according to Master Wholesale. Online shopping with Master Wholesale is convenient as well, featuring easy to navigate web pages and free shipping on most orders.

Master Wholesale, Inc.

P.O. Box 80844

Seattle, WA 98108

800-938-7925

masterwholesale.com

Mechanics Tool Supply

Mechanics Tool Supply was established in 1991 with the goal of supplying professional quality commercial, industrial and automotive tools at discount prices, according to Mechanics Tool Supply. Brand name tools sold at low prices and quick service are what the company claims you will receive when shopping with them. Mechanics Tool Supply sells wholesale automotive and truck mechanics tools, mechanics body shop tools and mechanics hand tools from companies like OTC, Grey Pneumatic and GP socket, according to Mechanics Tool Supply.

Mechanics Tool Supply

879 Joliet Street, 324

Dyer, IN 46311

888-987-4853

mechanicstoolsupply.com

Tool Discounter

Tool Discounter is an online wholesale mechanic tool company that specializes in automotive and truck equipment, tools and supplies. According to Tool Discounter, their customers receive tremendous discounts due to their ability to by direct from the manufacturer, and thereby pass the savings on to the customer. Tool Discounter offers weekly specials and is proud of their customer service team who can answer questions via email, fax or phone, according to Tool Discounter.

Tool Discounter

4280 Centerville Rd.

Vadnais Heights, MN 55127-7813

877-663-8665

tooldiscounter.com

There are different reasons why your car might be shaking when you drive. One of the reasons for a bad ride is flat spots on your tires. Flat spots can be caused by locking up your brakes or by your car or truck being parked for a long period of time in one place. There are two ways to correct flat spots on your tires, depending on the cause.

Instructions

1

Fill each tire to the maximum level as noted on the sidewall of the tire, using the air compressor. Check to make sure the pressure is correct using the tire gauge.

2

Drive the vehicle for at least 150 miles. If the flat spots were due to the vehicle being parked for a long time, this should solve the problem.

3

Release air from the tires to bring the tire pressure back within the normal range, as noted in the vehicles owners manual and on the drivers door information plaque. Do this by inserting a valve core tool into the tire stem.

4

Take the vehicle to a tire shop. Most dedicated tire shops have tire shaving machines that will shave the tires tread until the flat spot is gone. This is the only solution for a flat spot caused by a long skid.

The catalytic converter on your 1988 Chevy Blazer is located in the exhaust system and is a critical part of the emissions control system for your engine. The design of the converter will reduce pollutants like carbon monoxide and unburned hydrocarbons and stop the escape of these pollutants from the exhaust system. A catalytic converter does not have a life expectancy and should not fail but if it does, the first step in repairing the system is to remove the converter for inspection and possible replacement.

Instructions

1

Raise the front end of your Blazer with a jack and support it with a set of jack stands positioned solidly under the frame of the truck. Remove the jack from under the truck so you dont have to try and work around it.

2

Locate the catalytic converter in the front of the exhaust system. On the S10 Blazer, it is located just behind the Y pipe where the two down pipes from the engine come together.

3

Locate the two mounting bolts on the joint at the rear of the catalytic converter where it meets the exhaust pipe. Remove the bolts with a socket and ratchet and then separate the joint.

4

Move to the front of the catalytic converter and locate the tow bolts that attach the converter mount to the front of the converter. Remove the bolts with a socket and ratchet. Remove the exhaust clamp just in front of the mount, using a socket and ratchet to remove the nuts from the cl then separate the two halves of the clamp.

5

Separate the catalytic converter from the front pipe by pulling it straight back, using a twisting motion to loosen the catalytic converter from the pipe. Remove the converter out from under the truck and set it aside.

The 1993 Mercedes Benz lets you know when you need to have your engine looked at by a mechanic by illuminating the "Check Engine" light on your control panel. The cause of this light can be diagnosed using an OBD II scanner tool that reads trouble codes, telling you exactly what is wrong with your car. After the codes have been read and the problem repaired, you will want to clear the check engine light to turn it off. This can be done at home with no special tools required and just a few minutes of your time.

Instructions

1

Put the key into the ignition and turn the car on but dont start the engine. Notice the display on the instrument panel between the tachometer and the speedometer.

2

Press the button on the lower left side of the steering wheel. The display will tell you why the light is on.

3

Look for the button next to the one you just pushed and press it. This will verify the reason for the check engine light.

4

Find the reset button on the instrument panel. This is located on the left side of the panel. Press and hold it until you see the instructions telling you to hold it for 3 seconds to reset it. Let go of the reset button.

5

Press the reset button one more time and hold it until the display indicates that the check engine light has been reset. Release the button. The check engine light should now be off.

Replacing the taillight cover or lens on your 2005 Ford F-150 truck requires replacing the entire taillight assembly. The assembly and lens are molded together and cannot be separated. Replacement taillight assemblies are available from Ford, most auto parts stores, salvage yards and some specialty parts retailers. Replacement of the assembly takes about 10 minutes with the use of basic tools. Check the bulbs while you have the taillight covers off, and replace any bulbs that are not working.

Instructions

1

Open the tailgate of your 2005 F-150, allowing the tailgate to rest on the support cables. Locate the two retaining screws in the bedside where the tailgate closes. The retaining screws are threaded into the taillight assembly.

2

Remove the two screws with a Phillips screwdriver and set them aside. Grasp the taillight assembly from the rear and pull it straight back, removing it from the truck. Do not pull it out so far that you damage the wires behind it.

3

Locate the bulb sockets on the rear of the assembly. Turn the bulb sockets counterclockwise, and remove them from the assembly. Discard the old assembly.

4

Install the bulb sockets in the rear of the new taillight assembly, turning them clockwise to lock them into place. Slide the new assembly into place on the truck. Push the assembly in until is seats completely.

5

Install the two retaining screws, and tighten them with a Phillips screwdriver. Do not tighten the screws so much that they thread into plastic, which could crack the housing. Close the tailgate.

Mazda 929 automobiles are manufactured by Mazda, which is based in Hiroshima, Japan. Mazda is currently 34 percent owned by Ford Motor company (as of December 2010). The first generation of Mazda 929 automobiles was introduced in 1973, and the last generation of Mazda 929 automobiles was discontinued in 1996. Individuals who currently have a Mazda 929 with plans to restore it must first decide the budget for the restoration project. Locate parts that you need or ask a retailer to assist you with finding parts for your Mazda 929. Find new or used parts at your local auto parts store or online.

Instructions

1

Rid the body of rust, if any exists. Put on your safety glasses and your dust mask. With an electric grinder, start by using a 40-grit abrasive pad to scrape the majority of rust from your Mazda 929. Then use a 80-grit abrasive pad to smooth the surface, followed by a 150-grit pad to even the surface. The 150-grit pad is the finest grit and will make the once rusted surface blend in with surrounding areas. Use your fingers to test the smoothness of the area. Then, remove any remaining rust with either phosphoric acid or oxalic acid.

2

Rid the body of any existing dents with a dent filler or a body filler. Using a dent filler, press down on the dent filler and release it. The suction feature will lift a dent out of your Mazda 929. If you choose to use a body filler, you may first apply 250-grit abrasive paper to a dent. Then use a painters brush to apply the painters filler in one direction, wiping left to right. Clean the area with a wax or grease remover.

3

Apply an epoxy primer on the exterior. If you purchase primer in a can, follow the instructions listed on the can for application to areas where you have removed rust. Otherwise, add hardener to an epoxy primer that is sold as a two-part mix. Instructions vary with brands of primer, so apply with a brush or with a spraying motion as directed. Use a block sander to finish the surface, before paint application.

4

Apply paint to your Mazda 929. Spray one coat and allow it to dry within 24 hours. The paint job may require one or two more coats. Read the instructions on the paint cans, to conform with paint application rules. Spray in an even motion, using light strokes. The Mazda 929 is now ready for a top coat.

5

Install parts yourself or have them installed professionally. This includes parts on the exterior and the interior of the car. The number of parts that you need depends on the condition of the Mazda 929 prior to your restoration project.

6

Remove your seats. Use the fabric on them as a guide to cut patterns with new fabric. Disassemble the seats, and carefully cut the seams to keep the material in tact. Lightly spray glue to your desired fabric, and place polyfoam between your fabric and a muslin backing. Then trace the old pattern with chalk and cut out the new pattern. Sew all of the pieces together and add sleeves of wire to pull fabric into a concave shape around the edges of the seats.

Batteries cables must be hooked up correctly when charging a battery while it is in or outside of the vehicle. The red cable is connected to the positive (+) battery terminal and the black cable is connected to the negative (-) terminal or to the car frame.

Battery to Battery

When the battery cables are hooked up with the negative to the positive and positive to the negative terminals, the battery can explode. This is true for the battery being charged and the battery in another car being used to supply the charge.

Battery Charger

A battery charger that is being used to charge a dead battery will be damaged if the positive and negative cables are hooked up incorrectly. The current to the battery charger will burn out component inside the charger.

Injury

A battery can explode when the cables are hooked up backwards. Anyone standing near the battery when it explodes could be seriously injured. Battery explosions can cause burns, permanent disfiguration and blindness.

Removing the vacuum shifter from your Jeep requires access to the front axle housing from under the Jeep. The vacuum shifter, used in the early Cherokee and Wrangler models with a Dana 30 axle assembly, engages when the Jeep is shifted into four-wheel drive. These actuators have long been a problem and a weak link in the system. If yours is not working, removal and replacement or converting the axle to do away with it may be your best option.

Instructions

1

Position a jack under the front of your Jeep and raise it off the ground. Position a set of jack stands under the front axle housing, then lower the Jeep until it is resting securely on the stands.

2

Slide under the passengers side of the Jeep and locate the vacuum shifter or actuator on the axle housing. It sits behind a small metal skid plate or guard. Remove the two bolts from the skid plate with a socket and ratchet, then remove the skid plate and set it aside.

3

Locate the two black vacuum lines on the end of the shifter. Pull the lines off the shifter and lay them aside. The lines are different sizes so there is no concern about mixing them up later.

4

Remove the four 10-mm bolts from the four corners of the actuator or shifter using a socket and ratchet. Set the bolts aside for reuse later.

5

Pry the shifter assembly loose from the axle housing with a stiff putty knife, then lift the assembly off the housing. Scrape any remaining gasket material off the housing and place a clean rag in the opening until you are ready to reassemble it to keep dirt and water out of the axle.

The 40 mm, constant velocity, Keihan Carb is probably the most common carburetor on motorcycles. It has been standard equipment on BMWs, Harleys and on several Japanese bikes as well. In a nutshell, you change the needle and seat by removing the top of the carburetor, pull out the vacuum piston and the three small parts inside, reassemble the vacuum piston with a new needle, and screw the top back on the carburetor.

Instructions

1

Set the carburetor, top-side up, on a bed of rags on a stable surface. Remove the four screws that hold the top on the carburetor with a flat-head screwdriver.

2

Remove the top, the small collar and the long spring. Lift out the vacuum piston from the middle of the carburetor along with the small parts inside.

3

Remove the needle and the spring seat from the vacuum piston.

4

Reassemble by placing the needle through the center hole in the vacuum piston. Place the spring seat over the top of the needle.

5

Reinsert the vacuum piston into the carburetor body so the vacuum piston fits in the slide track grooves. If the piston does not fit, turn it 180 degrees. Ensure the diaphragm seats evenly in the groove on top of the carburetor body.

6

Place the spring over the spring seat, and carefully lower the top. Hold the top down with one hand.

7

Insert one finger from your other hand into the venturi, and raise and lower the vacuum piston to ensure the spring is not binding.

8

Screw the top back on the carburetor with a flat-head screwdriver.

When one of the multiple oxygen sensors detect a lean mix of burned fuel to oxygen ratio or a bad circuit relay in your Ford Explorer Sport Trac, it will trip the "check engine" light. Finding the faulty sensor will require having the computer of the Explorer scanned. You can purchase quality aftermarket direct-fit oxygen sensors from parts stores now and many will be glad to scan the computer for free in order to sell your the parts you need.

Instructions

1

Raise the front end of the Explorer Sport Trac by driving it up onto car ramps. Apply the parking brake and place a wheel chock behind one of the rear tires.

2

Put on the safety glasses and gather the tools, replacement sensor and creeper if you have one. Crawl under the front of the Explorer Sport Trac.

3

Locate the sensor to be replaced. These sensors are screwed into the exhaust pipes and components and wired to wire harnesses that communicate to the computer system of the Sport Trac. The information of which sensor to replace should have already been obtained. Follow the exhaust piping from the engine manifold back until you have located the correct sensor.

4

Locate the sensor wire outlet plug. Some of the sensors on the Sport Tracs have a tricky plug to get at. Remove the plastic plug clip from the frame of the Sport Trac by prying it out with the screwdriver, but be careful not to damage the wire harness side of the outlet. Unplug the oxygen sensor wire from the wire harness.

5

Use the ratchet and socket to remove the sensor. Place the sensor wire into the slot on the side of the socket.

6

Screw in the new oxygen sensor and tighten. Be careful not to over-tighten or you could damage the threads to the new sensor.

7

Plug the oxygen sensor wire into the wire harness and fasten it back to the frame if you removed it. Gather the tools and creeper and crawl out from under the Sport Trac. Remove the wheel chock and back the Sport Trac off of the ramps.

Grease guns are an essential part of any mechanical workshop or facility. Grease guns make it easy to distribute lubrication to the moving parts of all types of machines. In a mechanics workshop, a grease gun might be used to apply grease to ball joints, U-joints in the drive shaft, tie rod ends or wheel bearings. When using a grease gun, you will want to have an even distribution of grease with each pump of the guns handle. This can be achieved by priming the grease gun before placing the nozzle of the gun next to the equipment.

Instructions

1

Pull the T-handle and rod out of the grease gun. Push down on the handle slightly to lock it into the open position. There is a small groove into which the handle fits to hold it open while you load the gun with grease.

2

Unscrew the metal cylinder inside the grease gun and pull the empty grease cartridge out. The cylinder screws into the gun near the nozzle.

3

Pull the rubber or plastic cap off one end of your new grease tube. Pull the metal tab off the other end. Slide the new grease tube into the metal cylinder so that the metal-tab end faces down toward the dispensing nozzle. Screw the cylinder back into place in the grease gun.

4

Unlock the T-handle and rod and push it in and out of the new grease tube two or three times. This will create a channel to push air out of the back of the tube and allow grease to flow.

5

Squeeze the handle of the gun several times until grease begins to flow consistently through the dispensing nozzle. You should do this over a trash can or a shop rag to avoid dispensing grease onto your floor or work surface.

6

Unscrew the bleed screw at the top of your grease gun and pump the handle a few times to open up the flow of your grease gun. Tighten the screw once the grease is dispensing freely. You usually wont have to perform this step unless the grease in your new tube is cold and heavy.

7

Pull the T-handle and rod back out and pump it in and out a few times if your grease gun loses its prime while you are applying grease.

The Saturn Ion (manufactured from 2003 to 2007) uses an integrated low beam and high beam headlight per headlight assembly (drivers side and passenger side). The halogen headlight is inserted into the back of each headlight assembly and accessed through the engine compartment. While both low beam and high beam filaments rarely burn out at the same time, the headlight needs to be replaced when one or the other beams fails for optimal night vision.

Instructions

1

Park the Saturn Ion on a level ground surface, apply the parking brake, ensure the headlight switch is in the off position, and release the primary hood release latch from inside the vehicle.

2

Release the secondary hood release latch located underneath the center of the hood in front and lift the hood prop to rest the hood onto the prop.

3

Lift the two headlight assembly retaining brackets located at the back of the headlight assembly with the faulty headlight. The brackets only need to be lift up about an inch to unseat the headlight assembly retaining tabs.

4

Pull the assembly forward away from the Ion to unseat the ball socket headlight aiming guide pins.

5

Place towel under the assembly while resting it on the front bumper to avoid scratching the paint on the bumper.

6

Angle the headlight assembly outward far enough to reach behind it and disconnect the wire harness plugged into the headlight socket. Lift upward on the harness plug tabs and then pull it out of the headlight socket.

7

Turn the headlight retaining ring 1/3 of a turn counterclockwise and then extract the headlight and ring from the back of the headlight assembly. Discard the spent headlight.

8

Put on a pair of latex gloves before handling the replacement bulb. If skin accidentally contacts the glass bulb section of the composite headlight, a heat or weak spot will occur and shorten the life of the headlight.

9

Insert the replacement bulb through the center of the retaining ring and then align the tabs of the ring and headlight to the grooves in the headlight assembly. Turn the ring and socket 1/3 of a turn clockwise to tighten and secure the headlight in place.

10

Reconnect the wire harness plug to the socket of the headlight and test the headlight for proper operation before replacing the headlight assembly and retaining brackets.

The Toyota MasterAce is a van that Toyota marketed as the Toyota Van in North American markets. This vehicle was available from 1982 to 1989. All versions of the Toyota Van in the United States had fuel-injected engines. The fuel pump in the 1986 Toyota Van is attached to the fuel sending unit on the fuel tank. This requires you to remove the fuel tank before you can replace the fuel pump.

Instructions

1

Remove the cable from the batterys negative terminal with a socket wrench. This will prevent you from starting the engine accidentally while you are replacing the fuel pump. Place one end of a hose into the fuel tank and the other end into a container for gasoline. Siphon as much fuel as possible from the tank.

2

Raise the vehicle with a jack and support it on jack stands. Disconnect the fuel lines and electrical wiring from the fuel tank. Support the fuel tank with a jack and disconnect the mounting bolts for the fuel tank with a socket wrench. Detach the fuel tank from the vehicle and move the fuel tank to your work area.

3

Disconnect the mounting screws for the field pump on the fuel tank with a socket wrench. Remove the mounting plate for the fuel pump. Lift the fuel pump assembly out of the fuel tank.

4

Pull the fuel pump away from its lower mounting bracket. Disconnect the nuts on the fuel pump with a socket wrench. Detach the electrical wiring from the fuel pump and fuel lines from the fuel pump. Remove and discard the rubber gasket. Release the retaining clip for the fuel pump filter and detach the filter from the fuel pump.

5

Install the new fuel pump and gasket by performing steps 2 through 4 in reverse order. Fill the tank with fuel. Connect the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench. Start the engine and check for fuel leaks.

The Datsun 280Z was a sportscar made in the late 1970s. It was later replaced with the Nissan 280z after the Nissan automobile company purchased Datsun. It is the predecessor to todays Nissan 370Z. One of the security features of the 280Z was the ability to lock the steering column and ignition key while the vehicle was parked. This acted as a deterrent to would-be car thieves. It can be frustrating to remove the ignition key lock from the 280Z unless you understand how to turn the steering wheel and ignition key a certain way. Fortunately, you can learn how to do this in a few easy steps.

Instructions

1

Put the vehicle in park. If you have a manual transmission, you can skip this step and go on to Step 2 below.

2

Press the cars brake with your foot and hold it there. If you have not already done so, put the 280Zs key in the ignition.

3

Hold the steering wheel of the car firmly with your left hand and grip the ignition key with your right hand. While turning the steering wheel quickly left and right, simultaneously turn the ignition key as if you are starting the car. The turning of the ignition key coupled with the swiveling of the steering wheel will cause the ignition key lock to release.

The 2003 Ford F-150 truck is equipped with one high-tone and one low-tone horn. The horns are mounted on the passenger side of the truck behind the front bumper on a pair of horn brackets. Because of the exposed location of the horns, they are prone to failure because of water and grit entering the horn body. Replace the horns using common tools.

Instructions

1

Locate the horns behind the passenger side of the front bumper. Pull the electrical connectors off the male spade terminals on the horns.

2

Remove the nut from the mounting stud that holds each horn onto its horn bracket, using a combination wrench. Remove the horns and washers from their brackets.

3

Install the new horns onto the brackets. Install the washers and nuts on the horn mounting studs and tighten them securely, using a combination wrench.

4

Plug the electrical connectors onto the male spade terminals on the horn body. Test the horns for proper operation before driving in traffic.

Instructions

1 Insert a flat-head screwdriver into the upper corner of your Chevy Trackers front grill. Work the screwdriver from the corner to the middle of the grill.
2Repeat for each corner of the grill, working toward the middle each time. This will loosen the eight retaining clips.
3 Pull the grill out from the front of the Tracker and set it aside.

The Chevy 454 is a popular and reliable hot-rodding engine that has been around since the 70s. Cubic inches translate into horsepower every day of the week, and the 454-cubic-inch Chevy engine creates a lot of horsepower. The Chevy 454 engine is traditionally known as the Rat motor (as are the 396 and the 427 engines), whereas Chevys smaller engines are referred to as the small block. The 454 lifters will last a long time with proper oil changes.You can remove a lifter from a Chevy 454 engine without any specialty tools.

Instructions

1

Lift the hood and prop it open. Slide a drain pan under the radiator and open the drain cock. Drain the coolant from the radiator. Remove the top radiator hose from the radiator and the intake manifold.

2

Snap a photo of the top of the engine with your cell phone camera. This will to aid reassembly.

3

Remove the air cleaner. Disconnect the fuel line and the throttle cable, or the linkage if so equipped, from the carburetor.

4

Remove the distributor cap from the distributor. Make a mark on the distributor housing corresponding with the electrode on the end of the rotor button. This makes it easy to realign the rotor button with the distributor when reinstalling the distributor. Unplug the distributor, loosen the distributor hold down clamp and slide it back, and lift the distributor shaft out of the intake manifold.

5

Loosen and remove the bolts that attach the valve covers to the cylinder head. Remove the 12 bolts that attach the intake manifold to the cylinder heads. Tap a straight screwdriver blade between the intake manifold and the block. The intake manifold is sometimes glued down with gasket cement.

6

Loosen the rocker arms on all the valves that need the lifters replaced. Record the number of full and partial turns the rocker nuts are turned on each rocker to ease reinstallation.

7

Remove the push rods from the top of lifters that are to be removed. Record where each push rod was located so that you can reinstall them in the same place in the same position.

8

Grip the top edge of the lifter to be removed with a vise-grip pliers and rotate it while pulling up on it. Sometimes the bottom of the lifter gets a build-up of varnish on it, and it takes a bit of rotating and pulling to remove the lifter from its bore.

9

Reinstall the new lifters. Reposition the push rods in the exact same hole they were in, in the same position. Replace the rocker arm on top of the push rod and valve stem. Thread the rocker arm nuts back onto the studs the same amount of turns needed to remove them.

If the catalytic converter on your 1998 Chevy Blazer is defective or has damage to the case, replacing it may be necessary. The converter is located under the front cross member, in the area underneath the drivers seat. It uses flanges on both ends to secure it to the rest of the exhaust and houses one of the oxygen sensors in the body of the converter.

Instructions

1

Raise the front of your Blazer with a jack and position a set of jack stands under the front suspension to support the truck while you work under it. Lower the jack and remove it from under the truck.

2

Position yourself under the passengers side of the Blazer and locate the catalytic converter in the exhaust system. Find the O2 sensor on the drivers side of the case and follow the wires from the top of the sensor to the wiring harness connector.

3

Release the locking tab on the wiring harness connection, then separate the two halves of the connector. Place an O2 sensor socket on the sensor body and turn it counterclockwise with a ratchet. Remove the sensor and set it aside for reuse later.

4

Move to the rear of the converter and remove the bolts from the mounting flange with a socket and ratchet. Pull the exhaust pipe loose from the converter and push it off to one side.

5

Locate the flange at the front of the catalytic converter. Remove the mounting bolts with a socket and ratchet, then separate the converter from the exhaust pipe.

6

Locate the rubber isolator that supports the converter; slide it off the mounting pin on the frame, then lower the converter down and out of the exhaust system. Slide the catalytic converter out from under the truck.

Rancho Suspension makes a wide variety of different types of shock absorbers, including a model called the Rancho 5000. These shocks are designed for light trucks and SUVs, like the 1998 Toyota pickup. If you own a 1998 Toyota pickup and your rear shocks are worn out, you can replace them with a set of Rancho 5000 shocks. This takes just under an hour to do with a few tools.

Instructions

1

Put a set of wheel chocks around the Toyotas front wheels. Put the jack under the rear axle, and lift up the axle and rear end of the truck until the wheels are off of the ground. Put jack stands underneath the axle, and remove the jack.

2

Remove the bolt and washer connecting the shocks to the axle with an open-end wrench. Remove the bolt and washer connecting the shocks to the frame with an open-end wrench. Slide the shock off of the mounting studs on the frame and the axle with your hands.

3

Slide the Rancho 5000 shocks onto the mounting studs on the frame and axle. Install the bolt and washer on the top of the shock with an open-end wrench. Install the bolt and washer to the bottom of the shock with an open-end wrench.

4

Pick up the axle with the jack and take out the rear jack stands. Lower the jack so the rear wheels are on the ground. Remove the wheel chocks.

Engines transform air/fuel mixtures into combustion, creating horsepower. Engine combustion creates exhaust gasses that must be expelled from the combustion chamber in order to keep the air/fuel mixture clean. Intake systems improve combustion, while exhaust systems relieve an engine of waste gasses.

Air Intake Components & Function

Combustion is a mixture of fuel and air. While engines inject fuel drawn from a fuel tank, the air is pulled from outside through the intake system. Air is drawn through an intake tube and into a filter-protected air box. From there the air is driven into the combustion chamber.

Exhaust System Components & Function

Exhaust gasses exit the combustion chamber through an exhaust manifold that is secured to the engines cylinder heads. Exhaust then travels through a front pipe and into a catalytic converter, which filters harmful chemicals such as carbon monoxide. The cleaner exhaust finally travels through the muffler and out the tailpipe.

Performance Benefits

Upgrading intake and the exhaust system benefits engine-based performance. Aftermarket exhaust systems are designed to optimize exhaust flow and velocity while reducing back-pressure. This is accomplished through a change in piping diameter. An upgraded intake pulls increased air more directly through the filter. Both upgrades improve horsepower and fuel efficiency while increasing engine sound.

General Motors manufactured an eight-cylinder 6.5-liter diesel engine from 1992 to 2000. This engine is typically turbocharged and appears in many heavy trucks from General Motors during this period. For example, A 6.5-liter turbocharged engine is an option for the 1994 Chevrolet 3/4-ton pickup truck. This engine has fuel injection and requires a pump to keep the fuel pressurized. The procedure for installing the fuel injection pump is similar for all full-size Chevrolet trucks made from 1988 to 1998.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the cable from the negative terminals of both batteries with a socket wrench. Remove the cooling fan and its shroud if necessary to access the intake manifold. Disconnect the intake manifold.

2

Detach the accelerator cable from the injection pump if applicable for your vehicle. You may also need to disconnect the retainer bracket for the air conditioning hose to gain access to the injection pump. Detach the fuel lines and electrical wiring from the injection pump. Plug the fuel lines with clean cloth.

3

Remove the vent hose assembly for the depression valve from the crankcase, including the oil filler tube. Detach the grommet from the oil filler tube. Turn the crankshaft clockwise to gain access to the bolts for the injection pump through the hole for the oil filler tube.

4

Disconnect the bolts that attach the front cover for the injection pump with a socket wrench. Remove the injection pump from the crankcase and discard its gasket.

5

Mount a new gasket to the new injection pump. Insert the pin on the hub of the injection pump into the hole on the driven gear for the injection pump. Install the injection pump and connect the front cover to the injection pump. Tighten the retaining nuts to the front cover to 30 ft. lbs. with a torque wrench.

6

Fasten the injection pump to the drive gear and tighten the bolts to 20 ft. lbs. with a torque wrench. Mount the grommet to the oil filler tube and install the vent hose assembly to the crankcase.

7

Remove the plugs from the fuel lines and attach the fuel lines to the injection pump. Tighten the bolts for the fuel lines to 20 ft. lbs. with a torque wrench. Connect the electrical wiring harness for the injection pump. Connect any additional components that you removed to access the injection pump.

8

Attach the cables to the negative battery terminals with a socket wrench. Start the engine and correct any fuel leaks.

A mechanical relay is actually only half mechanical, with the second half being electrical. A relay is a switch that uses a low-current power supply to control a high-current power supply. Relays are often used in automotive applications to control headlights, fuel pumps, starters and electric cooling fans, as these devices require a much higher current than a normal switch would be able to sustain under long term use without failing. Your relays will often be located within the engine or passenger compartment fuse box and occasionally behind the dash or center console.

Relay Design

Most relays have either four or five terminals, depending on their design and purpose. Four terminal relays control a single circuit and five terminal relays can control two circuits; In this scenario, one circuit is always closed and one circuit is always open. Relays will vary in color, but commonly resemble a small cube or rectangle depending on application and use. If a relay looks similar, they are likely interchangeable, but you must verify the terminal numbers on the backside of the replacement relay, using the diagram on the side of the relay, match that of the original relay.

The Need for Relays

The need for relays rose when normal switches could no longer sustain the high amperage required by a vehicles headlights and electric starters. In order for a switch to withstand high amperage feeds, it has to be built a certain way which normally leads to the switch being too big and unstylish. When the amperage of a circuit, or the draw of the components attached to the circuit exceed the rating of a switch, it creates heat that normally leads to a melt down and failure of the switch.

How They Work

Your relay houses an electromagnet connected to the low current or control, circuit. A high current circuit runs through the opposite end of the relay. This circuit is normally open, meaning that the circuit is not complete, until the relay is activated. When the electromagnet is energized, an arm is pulled down to close the connection between the high current circuit. However, five-prong relays will always have power going to one circuit (the fifth terminal), until you complete the control circuit which will transfer the same current to the normally open circuit.

Relay failure

Relays, like all other mechanical and electric components, will fail from time to time and need replacement. Common belief is that something without many moving parts is less likely to fail; however, relays can easily fail if the electromagnet -- the relays weakest point -- overheats and melts. Overheating is normally kept under control through a fuse placed in-line before the relay. The fuse will blow and prevent as much damage as possible if too high of a current draw travels to the relay. Replacing the recommended fuse with a fuse with a higher amperage fuse, can result in overheating the relay. Relays also fail as they wear and dirt collects on the high-current contact inside the relay. After excessive use or long periods of high current travel, the contact on the end of the high-current arm can wear down and cause an intermittent connection. Intermittent connections can also occur, if the relay casing has become damaged, allowing dirt to build up on the contact.

As thick and sturdy as they are, youd think that brake rotors would outlast the entire car. However, those rotors are thick for a reason: They are subject to some of the harshest and most demanding conditions imaginable. Operating under extreme temperatures, mechanical stress and even chemical assault, even the best rotor will eventually score, warp or crack and require some sort of machine work or replacement.

Normal Stresses

Rotors and drums exist to act as a friction surface for the pads to press against, meaning that at some point theyll have to turn several thousand pounds of forward momentum into thermal energy. The pads need to be almost as strong as the rotors to deal with the thermal and shearing stresses involved with braking, which is no mean feat when the rotors are made of hardened steel. Over time, the hard pad material will begin to eat the softer parts of the rotor surface, sometimes wearing it down evenly and other times leaving grooves on the surface.

Warpage

Warped rotors and drums are a result not of rapid heating, as conventional wisdom may have it, but of uneven cooling. Overusing the brakes will overheat the rotors, possibly to the point of glowing red or white hot. At these temperatures, metal acts more like a very slowly flowing liquid than a solid, so it may not assume the same shape once it cools down. Certain parts of the rotor will inevitably cool and contract a little faster than others, pulling some parts of the material in while other parts remain stationary. This causes warpage or "runout," which is a waviness in the rotor that causes brake pedal pulsation afterward.

Normal Resurfacing Conditions

Resurfacing is usually done with a lathe. The rotor goes on a lathe, and a cutting head passes over it to eliminate ridges and waviness. You dont necessarily have to resurface rotors during a pad change, since the rotors are far harder and should, by nature, outlive the pads. Rotors vary in terms of allowance for groove depth, as some rotor faces might be thicker than others. The only way to know for sure is to check your manufacturer recommendations regarding acceptable runout and groove depth. General Motors, for instance, allows for a fairly deep scoring of 1.5 mm before requiring machine work (AA1 Car Library, Understanding Brake Rotor Service). The rule of thumb is that grooves deep enough to catch a fingernail warrant some resurfacing.

Special Conditions

Oddly enough, there is some logic in putting off machine work until the manufacturer requires it. One of the oldest tricks in racing is to use a very thick rotor or drum, and then intentionally score it on a lathe to create a sharply grooves surface. Those deep grooves will increase the rotors surface area; once the pads bed in and conform to the rotor, they can provide significantly more clamping force than they would with a perfectly flat surface.

While no ones suggesting that you engage in any such idiocy with your street car and stock-thickness rotors, its something to bear in mind when considering a pad change without resurfacing. Until the pads bed in and conform to the shape of an un-machined rotor, their reduced contact area guarantees that the new pads will provide less initial stopping power than old pads with the same rotors.

The Chevy Impala has enjoyed three runs with the GM corporation from 1958 to 1985, from 1994 to 1996 and from 2000 to the present. This full size car may have a single pipe system or a double pipe system, which is important to know when replacing the muffler. If you find holes in your muffler or it starts making loud noises, then its time to replace it.

Instructions

1

Spread out an old blanket or a large piece of cardboard on the ground to lay on as you replace the muffler. For an easier time repairing, you might consider jacking the car up and placing it on jack stands instead.

2

Purchase a new muffler. It must have a 2.25-inch center inlet/outlet, be 4 inches thick by 9.75 inches wide, and 13 inches long. Make sure it is the right one according to the model year of your vehicle.

3

Look over the old muffler. Spray the fasteners generously with a penetrating lubricant before you loosen them. The penetrating lubricant will help you to remove the screws and bolts with ease.

4

Loosen the bolts at the bottom of the muffler strap. Its okay to let the muffler hang. Using a hacksaw, saw the stock muffler completely off of the pipe, leaving 1 inch to 1 1/2 inches of straight pipe at the muffler inlet, if you have a single pipe system. Alternately, if you have a dual pipe system, take of the U-bolt clamp found on the front of the muffler and remove the muffler from the exhaust pipe.

5

Take of the tailpipe clamps and then remove the tailpipe. After taking off the muffler and tailpipe, inspect all the hangers and replace any that are damaged.

6

Put the muffler into place under the vehicle. Make sure the muffler inlet slips over the exhaust pipe with ease. Put sealer on the connecting surfaces and then straighten the muffler over the pipe. Tighten the muffler clamp on the muffler inlet using a flathead screwdriver and then tighten all clamps starting at the front of the muffler and working youre way back.

7

Lower the car, start the vehicle and carefully inspect the muffler for leaks and loud sounds. If there are any, youll need to tighten the bolts more. However, the clamps should be loose enough to allow the muffler to move a little with the movement of the car.

General Motors is one of the Big Three American auto manufacturers, all of whose vehicles have problems from time to time, including design defects with a fuel sending unit or other parts. GM has a customer assistance center to accept public complaints. There are a few ways to try to resolve issues with this large corporation. Car owners who have mechanical or design issues with their fuel sending units should learn the process for filing a complaint through either the dealership who sold the vehicle or through GMs national complaint process.

Instructions

1

Write out the complaint about your GM fuel sending unit, either by hand or on a computer. Put down your observations and why you think there is a problem with this car part. This includes the full history of problems you have had with the fuel sending unit.

2

Make extra copies of the complaint letter so you can send the original to GM. You should also have a copy available for the GM car dealership and your lawyer if you choose to hire one.

3

Visit the dealer who sold the GM car. Even if you do not have a warranty at that time, or bought the vehicle used, the dealer may be able to resolve the problem. You can also determine if there has been a recall on the GM fuel sending unit or any related car parts.

4

Find the specific customer assistance center telephone number for your GM model. On the General Motors website, there is a "Frequently Asked Questions: Maintenance, Service and Repair" page. Click on the "Who do I contact if I have a concern with my vehicle?" link to find the list of phone numbers for each GM car model.

5

Call the customer assistance center with your car models assigned phone number if the dealership cannot or will not resolve the problem. You may also wish to file a national GM complaint if you have reason to believe that there is a design defect with a particular models fuel sending unit.

6

Send the complaint letter as follow-up correspondence to the phone call. This ensures that GM cannot claim that you never called to make a formal complaint. You may wish to send this as certified mail to ensure that it arrives at GM. This is another layer of protection to establish a record of your complaint. Send the complaint letter to:
General Motors Company
P.O. Box 33170
Detroit, MI 48232-5170

Gauges on the instrument panel of your vehicle serve as safety indicators for speed, fuel and engine malfunction. The first padded instrument panel was introduced in 1956 as part of a safety campaign by Robert McNamara. Fast forward to the 2000s and all symbols on the instrument panel flash briefly upon starting, but a light that is constantly on or flashing needs immediate attention.

Electronic Throttle Control Warning Light

According to the Dodge Charger owners manual, the lightning bolt symbol on a Dodge Charger is the indicator for the electronic throttle control. The electronic throttle control regulates engine idle speed, traction control and cruise.

Warning Indicator Solid Light

If the lightning bolt on the instrument panel lights up and stays lit when the engine is running, stop the vehicle as soon as possible. The vehicle will be drivable, but see an authorized dealer without delay.

Warning Indicator Flashing Light

If the electronic throttle control light is on solid, completely stop the vehicle and put it in park. The warning light should turn off by cycling the ignition key. If the light comes on again and flashes when the engine is running, the car should be immediately serviced. The engine could stall or have a very rough idle and may need to be towed.

The F series is a line of pickup trucks that Ford has manufactured since 1948. The 1988 models belong to the eighth generation of this series, which Ford made from 1987 to 1991. The procedure for replacing the water pump is generally the same for all Ford F-150s within this model-year range. The water pump for a Ford F-150 is located on the front of the engine block, and its accessible from the engine compartment.

Instructions

1

Place a container under the radiator and remove the drain cock. Drain the coolant into the container and replace the drain cock. Store the coolant for later use.

2

Disconnect the mounting bolts for the shroud on the cooling fan with a socket wrench, if your F-150 is so equipped. Remove the shroud and disconnect the hoses from the water pump. Remove the accessory drive belt, cooling fan, cooling fan pulley and fan spacer.

3

Remove the pivot bolt for the alternator and the mounting bolt for the alternator adjusting arm with a socket wrench. Disconnect the bracket for the power steering pump if your F-150 has power steering.

4

Remove the bolts that attach the water pump to the cover of the timing chain, using a socket wrench. Disconnect the water pump and discard its gasket.

5

Coat the new gasket with sealer and install the new gasket into its mounting groove on the timing chain cover. Connect the new water pump and tighten its mounting bolts to 18 foot-pounds with a torque wrench.

6

Connect the hoses to the water pump and install the shroud for the cooling fan if your vehicle is so equipped. Attach the cooling fan, the cooling fan pulley and the cooling fan spacer. Install the accessory drive belt. Replace the coolant in the radiator.

If there is ever a strong smell of engine exhaust in the vehicle, it means there is an exhaust leak somewhere toward the front side of the vehicle. It is imperative to have the exhaust fixed immediately as engine exhaust contains carbon monoxide, which will poison you. If the vehicle must be driven, drive with all windows down and the heating/air conditioning turned off to limit your exposure to the noxious fumes. There are several places exhaust fumes could leak from that would find their way into the cabin.

Exhaust Manifolds

With the engine running, check the exhaust manifolds for any leaks (remember exhaust is very hot and will burn you so do not touch it until the engine has completely cooled). Potentially, there could be leaks between the exhaust manifold and the cylinder head, or the exhaust manifold and the exhaust down pipe. If leaks are found, replace the leaking gasket. Inspect the exhaust manifold for extreme corrosion; in rare cases, exhaust manifolds have been known to corrode and may need to be replaced altogether.

EGR Valve

The exhaust gas recirculation valve directs exhaust back into the intake manifold. If the EGR valve gasket has failed, it will begin to leak exhaust gas, which may find its way into the cabin. Check around the EGR valve for any gasket leak, as well as the piping leading to the EGR valve for any corrosion or damage.

Catalytic Converter and Gasket

If the catalytic converter becomes plugged, it will create intense back pressure that can cause the mating gasket between the exhaust pipe and the catalytic converter to fail and leak exhaust fumes. Even from under the car, these noxious fumes can make their way into the vehicle cabin. Check for any exhaust leaks around the mounting point between the exhaust pipe and catalytic converter.

Leaking Exhaust Pipes

Over time, exhaust pipes can corrode and develop rust holes, especially in states that use salt for ice and snow control in the winter. Visually inspect all pipe from the engine back for any extreme corrosion or damage from other road conditions and replace as necessary.

Locking hubs are used on the front wheels of some 4x4 vehicles. When the hubs are not locked your front wheels will turn freely without any connection to the drive train. When the hubs are locked the wheels are connected to the front axles and power is delivered to provide four-wheel drive. Although most modern 4x4 vehicles have full-time or electronic four-wheel drive, there are still many trucks and sport utility vehicles on the road with front wheel locking hubs.

Instructions

Single-Piece Locking Hubs

1

Chock the rear wheels of the truck. Jack up the front end and place the jack stands under the frame. Remove the front wheels using a lug wrench. For each wheel, remove the brake caliper by loosening the upper and lower bolts located on the back side. Place the caliper at rest without any tension on the brake line. Remove the caliper frame by loosening the upper and lower bolts on the back side with the ratchet wrench. Remove the brake rotor by loosening the disc anchor screw with a screwdriver. Place two bolts into opposing holes at the face of the rotor to push it off the wheel. Place a single bolt into the center hole on the axle shaft. Tighten the bolt to loosen the locking hub assembly from the shaft and remove it from the vehicle. Remove the snap ring from the center of the axle shaft.

2

Install a new gasket onto the new locking hub assembly and lubricate it with a bit of axle grease. Install the new assembly with the cover off, and tighten the hub body bolts to the amount indicated in the manufacturers instructions. Install a new snap ring into the axle shaft.

3

Install a new gasket into the locking hub cover and apply axle grease. Make sure the selector knob inside the locking hub cover is set on "FREE." Check that the internal locking hub clutch is in a raised position toward the assembly cover. Place the locking hub cover onto the locking hub assembly and tighten the bolts with a torque wrench to the specifications for your particular locking hub model. Make sure the outer knob is also set on "FREE" to match the internal switch.

4

Replace the brake rotor and fasten it in place with the disc anchor screw. Reinstall the caliper frame, calipers and wheel. Fasten all bolts and lower the car. Test the system by putting the truck in drive and letting it run in two-wheel drive, then locking in four-wheel drive and returning again to two-wheel drive. If problems exist, remove the wheel, brakes and hub cover, reset both switches to "FREE," check the gasket and clutch positions and reinstall the cover.

Rotor-Mounted Locking Hubs

5

Chock the rear wheels of the truck. Jack up the front end and put jack stands in place under the frame. Remove the front wheels using a lug wrench. For each wheel, remove the brake caliper by loosening the upper and lower bolts located on the back side. Place the caliper at rest without any tension on the brake line. Remove the caliper frame by loosening the upper and lower bolts on the back side with the ratchet wrench.

6

Remove the outer locking hub cover by unscrewing the cap bolts using a Torx screwdriver or an Allen wrench. Remove the metal clip beneath the cover using a flat-head screwdriver. Expose the bearing nut by removing the internal hub assembly. Remove the bearing nut, the washer and the second bearing nut using a bearing nut socket wrench. The assembly can now be removed by pulling it off the axle.

7

Install the new locking hub assembly by placing it onto the rotor and fastening one bearing screw, putting the washer in place and then fastening the second bearing screw. Use a torque wrench set to the amount of pressure specified for your particular locking hub model.

8

Replace the metal clip and attach the locking hub cover by tightening the outer screws with an Allen wrench or Torx screwdriver. Replace the wheel and tighten the lug nuts. Test the system in two-wheel drive, then four-wheel drive and two-wheel drive again.

Several components makes up the parts of the rear hatch on a Chevrolet Camaro. These parts work together to allow the rear hatch to raise and lower, as well as to weather-proof the rear hatch. The Camaro does not have a traditional separate trunk, but a storage area behind the seats inside the car that stores the spare tire and jack, with enough room to put suitcases or other cargo.

Rear Hatch Hinge

The rear hatch component on the Camaro that allows the hatch to open and close while still remaining attached to the structure of the automobile is the rear hatch hinge. Two rear hatch hinges are located at the top of the hatch, and connect to both the roof of the Camaro and the hatch. The hinges act the same way as hinges on the door of a house, but are made of a different type of metal. Two bolts on each hinge hold it to the frame of the Camaro, and two hinge bolts on the other side of the hinge hold it to the hatch of the Camaro. The bolts that hold the hinges to the frame are not the same type of bolts that hold the hinges to the hatch.

Rear Hatch Hinge Bolts

The two hinge bolts that hold the hinges onto the Camaro frame are standard half-inch bolts that screw into the hinge, but the two bolts used to attach the hinges to the rear hatch are different. These two bolts slide through the hatch hinge and into a nut assembly located on the rear hatch, and are made to be tightened and loosened by hand with a handle located at the ends of the bolts. This provides easy removal of the rear hatch when necessary.

Rear Hatch Assembly

The rear hatch assembly is the main structure, or frame, of the rear hatch. Its the main component that all other rear hatch components screw, lock or attach to. The hatch assembly is the same color as the body of the Camaro and holds the rear window. Several aftermarket rear hatch assemblies are available, including a notchback hatch.

Rear Hatch Strut

The rear hatch struts on either side of the rear hatch of the Camaro extends out as the rear hatch is opened, and are used to hold the hatch open. The struts can have an optional rear defrost mechanism installed.

Rear Hatch Lock Assembly

The lock assembly locks and unlocks the rear hatch. It comes with a tumbler-type key locking assembly and key.

In modern automobiles, the exhaust manifold is part of the larger manifold system. Its function is to remove engine exhaust--air and vapor, along with any uncombusted fuels--and inject it into the exhaust pipe to be carried out and away from the engine. A cracked or otherwise faulty exhaust manifold can result in inefficient fuel consumption and a pronounced drop in engine performance. It can allow harmful exhaust fumes to accumulate in the engine compartment, where they can then make their way into the cabin of the vehicle.

Pronounced Exhaust Odors

The most obvious sign of an exhaust system problem is the presence of exhaust odors in the passenger cabin, though this can also indicate a breach of the exhaust pipe beneath the car. To differentiate between the two, run the engine until its warm and open the hood. If there is a distinct smell of exhaust originating from the engine compartment, the problem is very likely in the manifold.

Performance and Noise Issues

Because combustion engines use the natural vacuum pressure caused by the compression, combustion and evacuation of air and fuel, another symptom of a cracked manifold is an obvious drop in engine performance. Weak acceleration accompanied by a stuttering effect may indicate a manifold problem, but it does not necessarily mean the manifold is cracked.

This obvious loss of performance accompanied by louder engine noise points more definitively toward a breach in the exhaust manifold. The noise will typically manifest as a louder exhaust rumble, or a wide-open sound. Again, a breach in the exhaust pipe may also cause this, so be sure to check under the hood while the engine is being accelerated to ensure that the noise is coming from the engine compartment rather than beneath the car.

Identifying Cracks in an Exhaust Manifold

A cracked exhaust manifold is not always immediately apparent. Stress fractures caused by excessive heat can start small and widen over time, making the effect difficult to notice until the engines performance is noticeably diminished.

Because most fractures are caused by heat stress, cracks will form where the heat is most concentrated, in this case where the manifold joins the engine. In older manifolds made of cast iron, cracks are usually harder to see, as rust accumulates rather quickly. In newer engines with aluminum manifolds, cracks may be more readily apparent thanks to aluminums lighter color and resistance to oxidation. Removal of the exhaust manifold and a close physical inspection may be necessary to locate cracks.

The Chevrolet 230 is a six-cylinder inline engine. The engine is quite reliable and was used in many General Motors, Studebaker and Checker vehicles. General Motors produced a large number of inline six-cylinder engines of the same configuration with different bores. High production equates to affordable and readily available parts; new ignition and tune-up parts for the Chevrolet 230 can be found on the shelves of many auto parts stores. Worn contact points and oxidized distributor cap electrodes are a few good reasons for a tune-up.

Instructions

Tune-up

1

Trace the spark plug wire from the first spark plug in the engine to the distributor cap and mark a corresponding line on the distributor housing straight down from the spark plug wire. Be sure the mark is visible on the distributor after the cap is removed.

2

Remove the distributor cap and rotor button from the distributor. The distributor is located on the left side of the engine when viewed from the front and the rotor button is inside the distributor cap.

3




Loosen the nut on the wire post of the distributor, using the small ignition wrenches, and remove the contact points and condenser wire. Remove the screws that attach the contact points to the distributor plate and remove the points.

4

Loosen, but dont remove, the screw that holds the condenser band to the distributor plate and push the condenser out of the band. Dont remove this screw because it is tough to get back in place and if its dropped in the distributor it is difficult to retrieve.

5

Install the new contact points with a gap set at .019-inch with a feeler gauge. Push a new condenser into the condenser band, re-tighten the band screw and attach the wire to the wire stud on the contact points.

6

Place a new rotor button on top of the distributor shaft and install a new distributor cap. Be sure the rotor button seats into the grove on top of the distributor shaft or it may aim at the wrong distributor post and cause harmful back firing.

7

Pull the spark plug wire off the first spark plug on the engine and remove it from the distributor cap. Remove that spark plug and replace it with a new one. Place one end of a new spark plug wire on the new spark plug and the other end in the hole of the newly installed distributor cap that corresponds with the mark made on the distributor.

8

Proceed in a clockwise direction and remove the next spark plug wire from the old distributor cap. Trace that wire to the spark plug, remove the spark plug and replace it with a new one. Install a new spark plug wire on this plug and place the other end of the plug wire in the next hole of the newly installed cap proceeding in a clockwise direction.

Repeat this procedure until all the spark plugs and wires are replaced with new ones.

9

Unscrew the wing nut on top of the air cleaner and remove it. The 1949 Chevy is equipped with an oil bath air cleaner. The oil bath air cleaner has a wire mesh type filter in it and contains oil to trap the dirt.

Dump the oil from air cleaner in a container for proper disposal. Internally clean the air cleaner with a spray brake cleaner. Refill the air cleaner with oil to the level line marked and reinstall it.

Engine Timing

10

Connect the timing light induction clamp to the spark plug wire of the number one spark plug. Connect the lights red clamp to the positive terminal of the battery and the negative clamp to any grounded bolt on the engine.

11

Loosen the distributor hold down screw a half turn. Disconnect the vacuum line from the distributor housing and start the vehicle.

12

Locate the timing marks through the bell-housing access hole, located on the front right side of the bell housing by aiming the timing light pulse at the hole.

13

Set the engine idle at 500 rpm, align the circle ball mark on the flywheel with the indicator mark on the bell-housing under the timing light strobe, by rotating the distributor shaft until the marks align perfectly. Lock down the distributor hold down bolt once the marks are aligned and recheck the timing to be sure it did not change after it was tightened.

Vehicle sensors communicate engine performance information to a cars on board computer. This information can take the form of a diagnostic trouble code, or DTC, like the code described as "Lack of HO2S21 Switch-Adaptive Fuel at Limit."

Identification

The HO2S21 code, also referred to as P1130, is specific to Ford Motor Companys computer codes. It references the failure of heated oxygen sensors, numbered one and two, within the vehicles emissions system.

Meaning of Failure Code

The P1130 trouble code occurs once the heated oxygen sensor, or sensors, fails to switch between reports of a rich or lean oxygen amount vented from the engines combustion chamber. This code points to either a problem with the sensors themselves or a malfunction within the emissions system.

Considerations

The sensors electrical supply may be compromised by water damage to the sensors harness, or a failure of the entire sensor.

An integrated starter generator (ISG) is the combination of a starter, generator and flywheel system into one auto part. It is used to enhance fuel efficiency and vehicle performance on automobiles with combustion engines.

Purpose

When a vehicle comes to a complete stop, the integrated starter generator switches the engine off. When the accelerator is pressed, it starts the engine again, thereby saving gas that is usually wasted when a vehicle is in idle.

Benefits

Integrated starter generators offer faster vehicle cranking than a 12-volt starter. Also, they save fuel by reducing idling time when a vehicle is stopped.

Other Functions

Regenerative braking -- which happens when a vehicle decelerates by way of electric power -- is aided by the integrated starter generator. Also, the ISG functions as an alternator by generating electric power in a running vehicle and charging the battery.

You can reset the computer on your 2001 Chevrolet Venture right from your home garage, saving yourself time and money. The computer in your Venture, known as an OBD or On-Board Diagnostics computer, stores error codes. These codes can be read using an OBD scan tool. This tool is also used to erase the codes and reset the computer. This small hand-held computerized device can be purchased from any auto parts store. Most stores will even loan you a scan tool for the purpose of resetting your computer.

Instructions

1

Find the OBD port on the left side of the fuse panel. This port is the same size and shape as the connector end of the OBD scan tool.

2

Plug the OBD scan tool into the OBD port. Dont force it into the port or you may damage the pins.

3

Put the key into the ignition and turn it to the "II" position.

4

Wait for the scan tool to stop flashing. When it has, this means it has cleared the codes. Some OBD scan tools require you to press "Reset," "Delete" or other similar command to clear the codes. Consult the manual that came with the scan tool for exact instructions.

5

Unplug the scan tool and turn on the engine. Verify that all warning and service lights have turned off. The computer is now reset.

When bolts are repeatedly removed and tightened, their heads may round out and become stripped. Tightly-secured vehicle oil pan bolt heads may also become stripped if you use the wrong type of wrench to remove them. An effective way to remove a stripped oil pan bolt is by using a small pipe wrench. Pipe wrenches, which feature slightly angled jaws and sharp teeth ideal for grasping, are designed to be used on round objects. Replace the oil pan bolt after the old stripped one has been removed.

Instructions

1

Park the vehicle on a level work surface and apply the emergency brake. Remove the ignition keys to prevent someone from starting the vehicle while youre preforming maintenance under it.

2

Locate the oil pans stripped drainage bolt, which is typically located at the lowest point of the oil pan. Shine a light, such as a flashlight or maintenance lantern, under the vehicle to illuminate the part.

3

Affix a small pipe wrench to the oil pan drainage bolt. Make small adjustments to the pipe wrench as needed so that it fits snugly over the bolt.

4

Grasp the handle and turn the pipe wrench in a counterclockwise direction. Position yourself to pull on the pipe wrench handle rather than push it. Pulling on the wrench will give you more leverage and strength to remove the bolt.

5

Replace the stripped bolt with the correct replacement part.

Progressive Suspension shock absorbers are adjustable to preset loads and they can also be adjusted to achieve clearances on modified motorcycles that might not be allowed by original equipment manufacturers shocks. Progressive Suspension advises customers to check clearances around the shocks before installing them on any motorcycle. When necessary, the top cover can be removed. Progressive Suspension shocks can be completely disassembled with a spring compressor but the manufacturer does "not recommend" the use of lowering blocks and warns that use of a lowering kit may damage the shock and void the warranty.

Instructions

1

Remove the domed caps on the shocks by pushing the cap from the back, with your fingers, out of the eyelet cover. Reinstall the domed caps, when clearances allow after installing the shocks, by pushing them back into the eyelet covers with your fingers.

2

Rotate the offset lower shock eye in or out with your hands to gain clearance advantages.

3

Remove the upper cover on the Progressive shock by loosening the 2 retaining set screws with a .050" hex key. Further disassembly requires special tools.

4

Adjust the 5-position preload adjuster with a spanner wrench. Engage the wrench tabs into the two opposing holes in the lower chrome cover and squeeze.

5

Rotate the lower chrome cover left to increase spring preload and stiffen the shocks. Turn the wrench and the chrome cover right to decrease spring preload.

When subjected to the repeating heating cycle of your vehicles exhaust system, copper gaskets do not become brittle like standard paper exhaust gaskets. This extra durability allows copper gaskets to outlast other types of exhaust gaskets, reducing the amount of time you need to spend repairing exhaust-gasket leaks. Copper gaskets do require special sealants to ensure that the copper gasket seals your exhaust. High-temperature, copper-impregnated silicone sealants will expand and contract with the copper exhaust gasket and remain durable for the life of the gasket.

Instructions

1

Remove the old gasket material from both sides of the exhaust youll be connecting with the copper gasket with the 2-inch metal scraper.

2

Wipe both sides of the scraped exhaust connection with the clean rag to remove loose debris from the surfaces of the exhaust connection.

3

Set the copper gasket on top of the worktable and inspect the gasket to ensure that the gasket is flat.

4

Tap the high spots of the copper gasket lightly with the rubber mallet to straighten the gasket, if necessary.

5

Open the squeeze tube of copper silicone sealant by puncturing the foil covering the end of the squeeze tube with the top of the tubes cap.

6

Run continuous beads of the copper embedded silicone around each opening in the exhaust connection.

7

Gently place the copper gasket on one side of the exhaust connection and then place the other side of the exhaust connection against the copper gasket.

8

Reconnect the exhaust system per your specific situation while keeping the copper gasket in place.

The Thunderbird was a series of luxury cars that Ford manufactured from 1955 to 2005. The 1995 model belongs to the tenth generation of this series, which was in production from 1989 to 1997. The 1995 Thunderbird was typically equipped with an eight-cylinder 4.6-liter engine with multi-point fuel injection. The procedure for wiring a fuel injector is the same for all Thunderbirds and Cougars with this engine.

Instructions

1

Remove the negative battery cable with a socket wrench. This prevents you from starting the engine and discharging fuel during the fuel injector installation. Remove the cap from the fuel tank to relieve the fuel tank pressure.

2

Remove the cap from the fuel pressure relief valve on the fuel rail. Connect fuel pressure gauge T80L-9974-A to the relief valve, and place the drain tube for the fuel pressure gauge into a container suitable for gasoline. Open the valve on the fuel pressure gauge to drain the fuel system. Disconnect the fuel pressure gauge from the relief valve, and replace the relief valve cap.

3

Detach the vacuum line from the fuel pressure regulator. Remove the fuel lines from the fuel rail, and unplug the electrical connectors from the fuel injectors. Disconnect the retaining bolts for the fuel rail assembly with a socket wrench, and remove the fuel rail from the fuel injectors. Pull the fuel injectors while gently rocking them back and forth to remove them from the intake manifold.

4

Coat a pair of new O-rings with light engine oil, and mount them on each fuel injector. Install the fuel injectors into their sockets on the intake manifold, and twist them back and forth gently to properly seat them.

5

Push the fuel rail down onto the fuel injectors, and ensure that you fully seat the injector O-rings into the caps on the fuel rail. Connect the retaining bolts for the fuel rail as you hold the fuel rail in position. Tighten the retaining bolts to between 71 and 106 inch-pounds with a torque wrench. Attach the fuel lines for the fuel rail, and connect the vacuum line to the fuel pressure regulator.

6

Connect the cable for the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench, and turn the ignition on to pressurize the fuel system. Correct any fuel leaks, and disconnect the negative battery terminal.

7

Attach the electrical connectors for the fuel injectors, and connect the negative battery terminal. Start the engine, and allow it to idle for two minutes. Turn the engine off, and correct any fuel leaks.

The thermostat in your 1993 Oldsmobile is a devise that regulates the engine temperature. It opens automatically and circulates antifreeze (engine coolant) into the engine block when the temperature rises. And conversely, remains closed when the engine temperature is normal. This device is located between your engines radiator and the engine, and is mounted onto the block. Fairly inexpensive and simple to replace, it is a very important part of the engines cooling system and should be replaced at the first signs of engine overheating to prevent major damage.

Instructions

1

Place a recycling container under the radiator drain plug to capture the antifreeze. Remove the drain fill cap by hand to relieve the pressure. Loosen the drain plug to release a small amount of antifreeze from the radiator. Take out only enough to clear out the upper radiator hose that attaches to the thermostat.

2

Disconnect the upper radiator hose using a flat-head screwdriver where it connects to the thermostat cover by loosening the screw-tight hose clamp. The opposite end that connects to the radiator can remain attached during the replacement repair. Move it aside and wedge it in the radiator fan area to allow for better clearance to the thermostat.

3

Remove the two mounting bolts on either side of the thermostat housing cover using a socket wrench. Take off the housing cover and break the seal using the screwdriver. Carefully lift out the old thermostat.

4

Stuff a small towel or sock into the housing opening to prevent debris from entering the engine. Scrape off the old gasket using a razor or paint scraper.

5

Remove the sock and apply a small amount of gasket adhesive to the new gasket place it directly onto the thermostat opening. Be sure that the bolt holes are aligned so that the gasket and new thermostat will seat properly. Insert the new thermostat with the spring side down (into the engine).

6

Put the thermostat housing on and secure in place with the mounting bolts, and tighten them using the socket wrench. Attach the radiator hose and secure it in place with the screw-tight hose clamp.

7

Replace the removed antifreeze with a 45/55 mixture of new antifreeze and water. Pour it directly into the radiator, filling it to the top, and then replace the radiator cap.

8

Start the engine, allow it to run for several minutes then turn the engine off. Re-check the antifreeze level and add more as necessary to top it off.

Ironhead Sportsters, like your 1980 1000cc model, are notorious for overheating. Oil coolers work by providing additional oil in your system and an additional surface from which heat can radiate. Almost any oil cooler will work on an Ironhead engine as long as you understand the oil line routing on the motorcycle. In a 1980 Sportster with an after-market inline, as well as a drop-in, oil filter, the oil pump is fed by gravity from the oil tank. Oil pressure from the pump pushes the oil to the oil filter in-port. The oil then flows under pressure from the filter out-port to the oil cooler in-port, and from the cooler out-port to the oil tank return.

Instructions

1

Drain the oil from the oil tank through the drain hose into a pan. Use a screwdriver to loosen the hose clamp. Remove the drain plug with a pair of pliers if the oil is hot. Remove and clean the drop-in oil filter.

2

Reseal and replace the drain hose. Spin off the in-line oil filter, if your Sportster has one, with an oil filter wrench. Drain the filter into the pan. Clean up any spilled oil with shop rags.

3

Disconnect the filter out-line from the filter out-port by loosening the hose clamp with a screwdriver.

4

Replace the filter out-line with the cooler in-line. Tighten the cooler in-line to the filter out-port with a hose clamp and screwdriver.

5

Bolt the oil cooler mounting clamps to the left down tube or both frame down tubes as specified in the instructions that came with your oil cooler. Use a box wrench or an open-end wrench to mount the clamps.

6

Bolt the cooler to the mounting clamps with a box wrench or an open-end wrench. Ensure that the cooler is facing forward and tighten the mounting clamp fasteners, as specified in your oil cooler documentation.

7

Attach the oil cooler in-line to the oil cooler in-port using high-temperature gasket sealer, a hose clamp and a screwdriver.

8

Disconnect the oil tank return line from the return line port. Discard the return line.

9

Attach the oil cooler out-line to the oil tank return port using high-temperature gasket sealer, a hose fitting and a screwdriver. Attach the oil cooler out-line to the oil cooler using high-temperature gasket sealer, a hose clamp and a screwdriver.

10

Check all hoses for kinks and bindings. Hand-tighten a new in-line air filter to the in-line oil filter fitting. Add four quarts of oil to the oil tank. Replace the drop-in oil filter.

11

Start your Sportster in neutral and allow it to run until warm. While the Sportster is running, check all hose fittings for leaks. Make sure the oil cooler becomes warm to the touch.

12

Turn off the bike. Check the oil in the oil tank and add oil as needed.

Working on a car can sometimes be inconvenient, especially if the parts that need replacing or examining are underneath the vehicle and too close to the ground to easily access. Elevating the car with an automobile lift is one way to get at many automotive problems without twisting your arm and craning your neck to see whats happening. Fortunately these lifts arent hard to use.

Instructions

1

Drive the vehicle onto the lift. Some lifts have rails that you have to park the tires on, while other lifts have a cage that will grab the vehicle by the frame to support its weight. Once the vehicle is in place, put it in park.

2

Press the lift button. This will get the lift moving and it will begin to raise the vehicle up. Keep a careful eye on the vehicle as its lifted to make sure it isnt rocking or tilting, and make sure that its rising steadily rather than jerking up.

3

Stop the lift. Either take your hand off the lift button and the lift will stop, or push the actual stop button once the lift is in place. When the vehicle is in the air and the lift has a good hold of it, youre ready to get to work on the car.

Car mirrors can endure a lot of damage, even in normal driving conditions. When a broken mirror must be replaced, they often come unpainted and must be painted before installation. Many replacement mirrors are manufactured by Kool Vue, so if you purchase a Kool Vue mirror its important to know the proper way to paint it for the best results.

Instructions

1

Cover the glass portion of the replacement Kool Vue mirror with newsprint.

2

Secure the newsprint in place with masking tape.

3

Clean the entire surface of the plastic to be painted with mineral spirits applied with a clean lint-free cloth. Allow the mineral spirits to dry completely before continuing.

4

Sand the entire surface of the plastic to be painted with 800 grit sandpaper and water. Keep the sanding surface moist as dry sandpaper can damage the plastic.

5

Wipe away any excess sanding debris with a clean lint-free cloth.

6

Apply plastic primer, also called "adhesion promote," to the entire surface to be painted. Allow the primer to dry fully according to manufacturer instructions.

7

Apply a second coat of plastic primer to the entire surface to be painted. Allow the primer to dry fully according to manufacturer instructions.

8

Paint the entire surface of the plastic to be painted with automotive paint. Allow the paint to dry fully according to manufacturer instructions.

9

Remove the masking tape and newsprint from the glass portion of the mirror.

The 6.9-liter engine that appears in Ford trucks from 1982 to 1994 has eight cylinders and uses indirect fuel injection. This engine is most common in larger trucks, beginning with the 1/2 ton F250 pickups. The cylinder head in a 6.9-liter Ford engine is a platform that sits on on top of the cylinder block. The procedure for replacing the cylinder head is generally the same for all vehicles with a 6.9-liter Ford engine.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the cables from the negative terminals of both batteries with a socket wrench. Drain the coolant from the radiator into a clean container, and store it for later use. Disconnect the shrouds from the radiator fan. Remove the radiator fan assembly with special tools T83T-6312-A and T83T-6312-B. Turn the mounting nut for the radiator fan clutch clockwise to loosen it.

2

Remove the electrical wiring from the alternator. Disconnect the mounting bolts for the alternator and the vacuum pump with a socket wrench. Remove the alternator and vacuum pump from the vehicle. Detach the hose for the heater from the cylinder head. Disconnect the fuel injection pump from the cover of the intake manifold with a socket wrench, and detach the intake manifold cover.

3

Raise the truck with a floor jack, and support it on jack stands. Remove the exhaust pipes from the exhaust manifolds. Release the clamp on the oil dipstick tube. Disconnect the mounting bolts that attach the oil dipstick tube to the cylinder head, and remove the oil dipstick tube from the vehicle. Lower the truck with the floor jack.

4

Disconnect the valve cover with a socket wrench. Remove the rocker arms and pushrods from the cylinder head. Record the position of each push rod and rocker arm as you remove them to ensure you install them to their original position. Remove the fuel injector nozzles and glow plugs from the engine.

5

Disconnect the mounting bolts for the cylinder head with a socket wrench. Attach lifting eyes to each end of the cylinder head with special tool T70P-6000. Lift the cylinder head with the lifting eyes, and remove it from the engine compartment.

6

Place the new cylinder head onto the engine block, while ensuring the pre-chambers dont fall into the cylinder bores. Coat the mounting bolts for the cylinder head with engine oil. Fasten the mounting bolts for the cylinder head, and tighten them in four separate passes with a socket wrench.

7

Coat the ends of the push rods with engine oil. Install the push rods in the positions you recorded in step four, and ensure the push rods are properly seated. Lubricate the tips of the valve stems with Lubriplate grease. Turn the crankshaft by hand to move its timing mark to the 11 oclock position. Install the rocker arms to their original, and tighten their mounting bolts to 27 foot-pounds with a torque wrench.

8

Replace the valve covers with a socket wrench. Install the intake manifold, and connect the fuel injection pump to the intake manifold. Attach the hose from the heater to the cylinder head. Install the alternator and vacuum pump to the engine, and connect the oil dip stick. Install the exhaust pipe to the exhaust manifolds, and attach the electrical wiring for the alternator. Connect the air cleaner to the engine.

9

Install the radiator clutch assembly with special tools T83T-6312A and T83T-6312B. Attach the cables to the negative battery terminals with a socket wrench. Fill the radiator with coolant, and start the engine. Check for leaks in the exhaust, coolant and fuel systems.