Fix It

The mid-size Mazda 6 was in its second generation as of 2010, having grown a bit over the previous generation of the car. There are seven trim models, with the more top-of-the-line variations equipped with niceties like alloy wheels, Bluetooth connectivity and xenon headlights. Most Mazda 6 cars, though, will have halogen bulbs. Exercise caution when changing halogen bulbs, as they are easily damaged if scratched or dropped.

Instructions

High-Beam Headlight

1

Turn off the ignition and the headlights.

2

Open the hood and remove the bolts from the coolant reservoir. Using your wrench, turn the bolts counterclockwise to remove.

3

Disconnect the bulbs electrical connector. Press on the connector tab and pull downward to remove.

4

Turn the bulb socket counterclockwise to remove the bulb. Then insert a new halogen bulb, turning clockwise to install.

5

Re-install the coolant reservoir.

Low-Beam Headlights

6

Turn off the ignition and the headlights.

7

Move the steering wheel to the right if youre replacing the left-hand light and vice-versa.

8

Open the hood and remove the bulbs plastic container screws. Turn counterclockwise to remove the six screws.

9

Turn the bulb cover counterclockwise.

10

Detach the electrical connector of the bulb by pulling it to the rear.

11

Pull downward and away to remove the bulb from the spring.

12

Remove the adapter from the bulb and attach a new bulb onto the adapter.

13

Insert the bulb into the bulb socket, connecting the electrical connections.

14

Insert the bulb cover, fastening the screws clockwise.

General Motors manufactured an eight-cylinder 6.5-liter diesel engine from 1992 to 2000. This engine is typically turbocharged and appears in many heavy trucks from General Motors during this period. For example, A 6.5-liter turbocharged engine is an option for the 1994 Chevrolet 3/4-ton pickup truck. This engine has fuel injection and requires a pump to keep the fuel pressurized. The procedure for installing the fuel injection pump is similar for all full-size Chevrolet trucks made from 1988 to 1998.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the cable from the negative terminals of both batteries with a socket wrench. Remove the cooling fan and its shroud if necessary to access the intake manifold. Disconnect the intake manifold.

2

Detach the accelerator cable from the injection pump if applicable for your vehicle. You may also need to disconnect the retainer bracket for the air conditioning hose to gain access to the injection pump. Detach the fuel lines and electrical wiring from the injection pump. Plug the fuel lines with clean cloth.

3

Remove the vent hose assembly for the depression valve from the crankcase, including the oil filler tube. Detach the grommet from the oil filler tube. Turn the crankshaft clockwise to gain access to the bolts for the injection pump through the hole for the oil filler tube.

4

Disconnect the bolts that attach the front cover for the injection pump with a socket wrench. Remove the injection pump from the crankcase and discard its gasket.

5

Mount a new gasket to the new injection pump. Insert the pin on the hub of the injection pump into the hole on the driven gear for the injection pump. Install the injection pump and connect the front cover to the injection pump. Tighten the retaining nuts to the front cover to 30 ft. lbs. with a torque wrench.

6

Fasten the injection pump to the drive gear and tighten the bolts to 20 ft. lbs. with a torque wrench. Mount the grommet to the oil filler tube and install the vent hose assembly to the crankcase.

7

Remove the plugs from the fuel lines and attach the fuel lines to the injection pump. Tighten the bolts for the fuel lines to 20 ft. lbs. with a torque wrench. Connect the electrical wiring harness for the injection pump. Connect any additional components that you removed to access the injection pump.

8

Attach the cables to the negative battery terminals with a socket wrench. Start the engine and correct any fuel leaks.

The 6.9-liter engine that appears in Ford trucks from 1982 to 1994 has eight cylinders and uses indirect fuel injection. This engine is most common in larger trucks, beginning with the 1/2 ton F250 pickups. The cylinder head in a 6.9-liter Ford engine is a platform that sits on on top of the cylinder block. The procedure for replacing the cylinder head is generally the same for all vehicles with a 6.9-liter Ford engine.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the cables from the negative terminals of both batteries with a socket wrench. Drain the coolant from the radiator into a clean container, and store it for later use. Disconnect the shrouds from the radiator fan. Remove the radiator fan assembly with special tools T83T-6312-A and T83T-6312-B. Turn the mounting nut for the radiator fan clutch clockwise to loosen it.

2

Remove the electrical wiring from the alternator. Disconnect the mounting bolts for the alternator and the vacuum pump with a socket wrench. Remove the alternator and vacuum pump from the vehicle. Detach the hose for the heater from the cylinder head. Disconnect the fuel injection pump from the cover of the intake manifold with a socket wrench, and detach the intake manifold cover.

3

Raise the truck with a floor jack, and support it on jack stands. Remove the exhaust pipes from the exhaust manifolds. Release the clamp on the oil dipstick tube. Disconnect the mounting bolts that attach the oil dipstick tube to the cylinder head, and remove the oil dipstick tube from the vehicle. Lower the truck with the floor jack.

4

Disconnect the valve cover with a socket wrench. Remove the rocker arms and pushrods from the cylinder head. Record the position of each push rod and rocker arm as you remove them to ensure you install them to their original position. Remove the fuel injector nozzles and glow plugs from the engine.

5

Disconnect the mounting bolts for the cylinder head with a socket wrench. Attach lifting eyes to each end of the cylinder head with special tool T70P-6000. Lift the cylinder head with the lifting eyes, and remove it from the engine compartment.

6

Place the new cylinder head onto the engine block, while ensuring the pre-chambers dont fall into the cylinder bores. Coat the mounting bolts for the cylinder head with engine oil. Fasten the mounting bolts for the cylinder head, and tighten them in four separate passes with a socket wrench.

7

Coat the ends of the push rods with engine oil. Install the push rods in the positions you recorded in step four, and ensure the push rods are properly seated. Lubricate the tips of the valve stems with Lubriplate grease. Turn the crankshaft by hand to move its timing mark to the 11 oclock position. Install the rocker arms to their original, and tighten their mounting bolts to 27 foot-pounds with a torque wrench.

8

Replace the valve covers with a socket wrench. Install the intake manifold, and connect the fuel injection pump to the intake manifold. Attach the hose from the heater to the cylinder head. Install the alternator and vacuum pump to the engine, and connect the oil dip stick. Install the exhaust pipe to the exhaust manifolds, and attach the electrical wiring for the alternator. Connect the air cleaner to the engine.

9

Install the radiator clutch assembly with special tools T83T-6312A and T83T-6312B. Attach the cables to the negative battery terminals with a socket wrench. Fill the radiator with coolant, and start the engine. Check for leaks in the exhaust, coolant and fuel systems.

The timing chain on a 3.1L Buick engine turns the crankshaft in synchronization to the camshaft rotation. This engine is known for its reliability, but after tens of thousands of miles the timing chain can simply stretch and fail. This can seriously damage the engine and affect performance. Plan accordingly, as the timing chain replacement procedure can require a good part of a day.

Instructions

1

Remove the engine front cover. Rotate the crankshaft until the timing marks are aligned with the crankshaft sprocket, camshaft sprocket locator hole and the engine block. The number one cylinder should be at top dead center (TDC).

2

Unscrew the camshaft sprocket bolt. Remove the camshaft sprocket and the timing chain. Remove the timing chain. Use a crankshaft sprocket remover to remove the crankshaft sprocket. Remove the timing chain dampener bolts. Remove the timing chain dampener.

3

Replace the timing chain. Install the crankshaft sprocket using a crankshaft sprocket installer. Apply GM EOS P/N 1052367 or equivalent to the sprocket thrust surface. Install the timing chain dampener to the block. Tighten the timing chain dampener bolts to 15 foot-pounds.

4

Align the crankshaft timing mark to the timing mark on the bottom of the chain dampener. Hold the camshaft sprocket with the chain hanging down and install the chain to the crankshaft gear. Align the timing mark on the camshaft gear (center line of the locator hole) with the timing mark on the top of the chain damper.

5

Remove the Crankshaft Sprocket Installer. Align the dowel in the camshaft with the dowel hole in the camshaft sprocket. Draw the camshaft sprocket onto the camshaft using the mounting bolt. Coat the crankshaft and camshaft sprocket with engine oil. Install the camshaft sprocket bolt. Tighten the bolt to 81 foot-pounds. Install the engine front cover.