Fix It

Ironhead Sportsters, like your 1980 1000cc model, are notorious for overheating. Oil coolers work by providing additional oil in your system and an additional surface from which heat can radiate. Almost any oil cooler will work on an Ironhead engine as long as you understand the oil line routing on the motorcycle. In a 1980 Sportster with an after-market inline, as well as a drop-in, oil filter, the oil pump is fed by gravity from the oil tank. Oil pressure from the pump pushes the oil to the oil filter in-port. The oil then flows under pressure from the filter out-port to the oil cooler in-port, and from the cooler out-port to the oil tank return.

Instructions

1

Drain the oil from the oil tank through the drain hose into a pan. Use a screwdriver to loosen the hose clamp. Remove the drain plug with a pair of pliers if the oil is hot. Remove and clean the drop-in oil filter.

2

Reseal and replace the drain hose. Spin off the in-line oil filter, if your Sportster has one, with an oil filter wrench. Drain the filter into the pan. Clean up any spilled oil with shop rags.

3

Disconnect the filter out-line from the filter out-port by loosening the hose clamp with a screwdriver.

4

Replace the filter out-line with the cooler in-line. Tighten the cooler in-line to the filter out-port with a hose clamp and screwdriver.

5

Bolt the oil cooler mounting clamps to the left down tube or both frame down tubes as specified in the instructions that came with your oil cooler. Use a box wrench or an open-end wrench to mount the clamps.

6

Bolt the cooler to the mounting clamps with a box wrench or an open-end wrench. Ensure that the cooler is facing forward and tighten the mounting clamp fasteners, as specified in your oil cooler documentation.

7

Attach the oil cooler in-line to the oil cooler in-port using high-temperature gasket sealer, a hose clamp and a screwdriver.

8

Disconnect the oil tank return line from the return line port. Discard the return line.

9

Attach the oil cooler out-line to the oil tank return port using high-temperature gasket sealer, a hose fitting and a screwdriver. Attach the oil cooler out-line to the oil cooler using high-temperature gasket sealer, a hose clamp and a screwdriver.

10

Check all hoses for kinks and bindings. Hand-tighten a new in-line air filter to the in-line oil filter fitting. Add four quarts of oil to the oil tank. Replace the drop-in oil filter.

11

Start your Sportster in neutral and allow it to run until warm. While the Sportster is running, check all hose fittings for leaks. Make sure the oil cooler becomes warm to the touch.

12

Turn off the bike. Check the oil in the oil tank and add oil as needed.

Clutch adjustment procedures and hardware on all Harley-Davidson Big Twins and Sportsters manufactured since 1990 are identical. Once you learn to adjust the clutch on your bike you can adjust the clutch on any recent Harley. And, with some sight in at least one eye and the slightest practical intelligence you will quickly see how to adjust the clutch on any Harley made since the Second World War. There are only two clutch adjustment specifications for your Custom 1200 Sportster. The first is to adjust the cable lever to 1/8 inch free play. The second is to back out the clutch adjusting screw one half to one full turn. This is how you get there.

Clutch Cable Adjuster Nut

Support your Sportster on a motorcycle jack or secure the front wheel in a motorcycle chock or motorcycle clamp so the bike stands fully upright. Run your hand down the cable that attaches to the clutch housing until your fingers find a bellows-shaped, black, rubber boot. Pull this black boot up to expose a short nut called the cable adjuster nut and a long nut called the cable adjuster lock nut. Using two hands, slide an open-end wrench on both nuts and turn the nuts in opposite directions.

Loosen Clutch Cable

Remove the wrenches when the nuts are loose. Turn the small, clutch cable adjuster nut with your fingers until the nut is at the top of the threads and the clutch cable is completely slack. Pull the black sleeve on the top of the clutch cable near the clutch lever away from the clutch housing. Spray aerosol cable lubricant into the sleeve so it will drip down the length of the clutch cable.

Remove Derby Cover

Draw two lines across the derby cover that extend onto the primary cover, with a grease pencil or similar marker, so you will be able to return the derby cover to exactly the same position later. Remove the six Allen-head screws that hold the derby cover in the primary cover with an Allen socket and a socket wrench. Remove the cover. Remove the gasket and throw it away.

Adjust The Clutch

Separate the clutch plates by tightening the clutch adjusting screw, in the exact center of the clutch, with an Allen wrench. Back out the clutch adjusting screw at least four turns. Tighten the clutch adjusting screw slowly until it just bottoms out. Back out the clutch adjustment screw one-half to one full turn.

Replace Derby Cover

Put a new derby cover gasket on the inside of the derby cover so the red Harley logo on the gasket will face the clutch. Align the holes in the gasket and the cover. Replace the derby cover to the exact position it was in when you removed it, using the grease pencil marks as your guide. Replace and tighten all six derby cover screws with an Allen socket and a socket wrench.

Adjust Clutch Cable

Re-tighten the clutch cable adjusting nut until the clutch cable re-seats in the housing and there is no free play in the clutch lever at all. Loosen the clutch cable adjuster nut 1/2 turn at a time until there is 1/8 inch free play in the clutch lever before you feel tension. Immobilize the clutch cable adjuster nut with an open-end wrench and simultaneously tighten the cable adjuster lock nut with a second open-end wrench until the two nuts fit snugly together. Replace the clutch cable adjuster boot.