Fix It

Removal of the shifter boot in your Dodge Ram truck allows you to access the four bolts on top of the transmission retaining the shifter assembly to the transmission. The rubber boot may crack over time and require replacement as well. If this is the case, you can get a replacement from the dealer or through a salvage yard. If you remove the shifter boot and intend to reuse it, use care so you do not rip it as you pull it off the shifter shaft.

Instructions

1

Sit in the seat of your Dodge, sliding it all the way back to expose the shifter boot on the floor of the truck. Locate the metal ring on the floor surrounding the shifter boot.

2

Grasp the shifter knob on top of the shifter assembly, turn it counterclockwise to loosen it and remove it from the shifter shaft. Set the knob aside in a safe spot so you can put it back later.

3

Locate the screws in the metal ring on the floor around the shifter boot. Remove the screws with a Phillips screwdriver, and set them aside.

4

Lift the ring, and pull the boot up the shaft. Pull the entire boot assembly off the top of the shifter shaft as a unit.

Removing the EGR valve from the 2.8-liter diesel engine in a Jeep Liberty can be time-consuming. Fortunately, with a little effort and a lot of patience, you can do it yourself and save on an otherwise large repair bill. The EGR valve is located on the back of the engine, just below the intake manifold on the drivers side of the engine. The valve bolts in place with four 8-millimeter bolts that are hidden below the manifold, so you will not be able to see them.

Instructions

1

Open the hood of your Jeep and locate the negative battery cable on the battery. Loosen the pinch bolt with a wrench then lift the cable off the battery and set it aside.

2

Position a catch basin under the passengers side of the radiator and remove the petcock from the radiator tank, allowing the coolant to drain from the system. Once the coolant has stopped draining, replace the petcock.

3

Remove the bolts from the top of the engine cover on the engine, using a socket and ratchet. Lift the cover off the engine and set it aside.

4

Locate the EGR valve on the back of the engine near the drivers side head. Remove the clamps from the cooling lines on the EGR valve then pull the two coolant lines off the valve.

5

Remove the four 8-millimeter bolts from the EGR valve with a wrench then separate the valve from the engine block. A ratcheting wrench may be necessary to remove the 8-millimeter bolts.

The rear bumper of the Ford Escort is attached with a series of bolts and screws located in the rear fender wells, inside the luggage compartment and underneath the back of the vehicle. You may need to remove the bumper because of damage or because you want to replace the bumper with a different style that fits your needs, such as a tow bar or bumper hitch.

Instructions

1

Unfasten the five screws on the inside lip of both rear fender wells in the back that are securing the rear bumper of the Escort, using a screwdriver. The rear fender well is the void area where the rear tire sits, on the back side of the car.

2

Open the rear hatch and unfasten the plastic pushpins that attach the luggage compartment rear cover to the vehicle frame by prying them off with a screwdriver. Remove the rear cover from the luggage compartment by hand. The luggage compartment of the Ford Escort is that area behind the rear seats that is used for storage instead of a trunk.

3

Locate the three bolts on both sides of the inside back panel of the luggage compartment that secure the rear bumper to the vehicle frame. Unfasten the nuts on the bolts with a socket wrench.

4

Unfasten the two nuts -- one on each side of the bumper -- underneath the rear of the vehicle that secure the rear bumper to the frame, using a socket wrench.

5

Lift the rear bumper off the frame and remove it from the Escort.

The original factory stereo in a 1998 Buick Regal was available with two different options; an in-stereo tape player or an in-stereo compact disc player. Regardless of the option choice, the removal method is the same. Despite the excellent reliability of Buick factory radios, they do fail occasionally; leaving the driver and passenger with an eerily-silent interior. Replacement factory stereos are available in used condition from most salvage yards for a nominal fee or new from Buick dealerships for a much higher price.

Instructions

Removal

1

Open the drivers side door and remove the left instrument panel insulator by prying it free with a flat-head screwdriver.

2

Press the tilt lever on the steering column and adjust the steering wheel as far down as it will travel.

3

Remove the retaining screws on the lower leading edge of the ash tray panel cover. Pull the cover forward to disengage the retaining clips. Disconnect the ash tray lights electrical connector and remove the lower ash tray trim panel.

4

Open the passenger door. Disengage the instrument panel trim plates retaining tabs inside the air vents using a flat-head screw driver. Pry around the circumference of the instrument panel trim plate with a flat-head screwdriver until all of the retainers are disengaged. Pull the instrument panel trim plate away from the dashboard and set it aside.

5

Remove the screws holding the radio in place using a ratchet and metric socket. Pull the radio out and unplug the black antenna cable from the back of the radio. Disconnect the radios electrical connector and remove the radio from the vehicle.

Installation

6

Reconnect the radios antenna cable and electrical connector. Set the radio into position and reinstall the radio retaining bolts. Torque the bolts to 18 inch-pounds with a torque wrench.

7

Set the instrument panel trim plate into position and press down on it from left to right in order to seat the retaining clips. When the panel is properly seated there should be no large gaps between the panel and upper dash pad or radio face.

8

Reconnect the lower ash tray cover panel to the ash tray lights electrical connector. Set the panel into place and press down on it until the integrated locking tabs are fully-seated. Reinstall the lower ash tray panel retaining screws and torque them to 18 inch-pounds with a torque wrench.

9

Tilt the steering wheel back to a normal position. Reinstall the left instrument panel insulator. Turn on the ignition and test the radio.

Removing the shifters from the floor of your Jeep Grand Cherokee for replacement or to access another part of the Jeep requires the removal of the center console. The bolts that secure the shifters are under the console and you cannot get to them with the console in place. The shifters are both mounted in on a bracket so they must be removed as a single unit and replacing one means replacing both. Replacement shifter assemblies are available from the Jeep dealerships parts department or you may find a used assembly from a salvage yard in like new condition, saving you money.

Instructions

1

Sit in the drivers seat of your Jeep and set the parking brake. Insert the ignition key into the ignition and turn the key just far enough to unlock the transmission. Depress the brake pedal and shift the transmission all the way to the rear then turn the key back to lock.

2

Lift the rubber mat out of the front bin in the console, exposing the retaining screws under it. Remove the screws with a Phillips screwdriver and set them aside.

3

Open the armrest on the console and locate the two screws in the base of the compartment. Remove the two screws with a Phillips screwdriver and set them aside. Slide the rear cup holders out to allow you to access the two screws under the rear of the console.

4

Remove the rear retaining screws with a Phillips screwdriver. Lift the console up and over the shifters then set it aside.

5

Locate the two cables coming to the front of the transmission and transfer case shifts and pry the retaining clips up and off the bracket with a small pry bar. Using a screwdriver, pop the shift cable off the side of the shifter on both sides then lay the cables aside.

6

Remove the four retaining bolts that secure the shifters and bracket to the floor of the Jeep with a socket and ratchet. Lift the entire assembly straight off the mounting studs and remove it from the Jeep.

The ignition switch on a 1977 Chevrolet truck is mounted on the steering column and is designed to trigger the starter motor and start the engine. This assembly can wear out over time. You then would have to remove the switch and replace it with a new one. This task can take about 30 minutes.

Instructions

1

Unbolt the steering column from the dashboard with the 1/2-inch ratchet and socket. Caully lower it away from the dashboard to access the top of the ignition switch.

2

Unplug the wiring to the switch. Insert the key in the ignition and put it into the "Lock" position.

3

Unscrew the switch from the column using the Phillips-head screwdriver. Pull the switch off of the column and replace it with a new unit.

The Dodge Charger debuted in 1966. Marketed as a muscle car, the Charger appealed to both young and old during its 12-year production run. Dodge manufactured a subcompact car bearing the Charger name from 1983 to 1987. In 2006, Chrysler brought back the full-size sedan, which adopted many styling cues from the 1960s Chargers. The third-generation Charger features a Chrysler 3.5-liter V-6 or Hemi V-8 engine and a number options and accessories. Although some accessories are nearly impossible to repair or replace, removal of the ashtray requires only a few basic tools.

Instructions

1

Pry up the chrome ring from around the shift lever using a tapered fiber stick or a small protected flat-blade screwdriver. Remove the ring, and set it aside.

2

Remove the rubber mat from the center console, and set it aside.

3

Remove the two screws that hold the shift lever bezel.

4

Pry up the shift lever bezel using a fiber stick or a small protected flat-blade screwdriver. Remove the bezel, and set it aside.

5

Apply the parking brake, and move the shift lever to "Drive."

6

Pry off the ashtray housing using a tapered fiber stick or small protected flat-blade screwdriver. The housing is held in with clips on the side; you may have to rock the housing slightly to slide it over the clips. Remove the housing, and set it aside.

7

If the Charger has heated seats, disconnect the wire harness to the switches. Tilt the ashtray, and remove it from the opening.

Removing the differential cover from the axle on your Ford Ranger is the only way for you to access the gears inside the differential. If you need to change the gear oil, inspect the ring and pinion gears or replace seals and bearings in the differential, you must remove the cover. It will only take a few minutes and just a few hand tools to complete the job. In most cases, removing the cover is the simplest part of any job involving the differential.

Instructions

1

Raise the rear of your Ranger off the ground with a jack. Position a set of jack stands under the rear axle tube to support the truck. Lower and remove the jack.

2

Position a large oil drain pan under the rear differential. Locate the bolts around the outer edge of the cover. Loosen all the bolts with a socket and ratchet. Remove them one at a time, starting at the bottom.

3

Leave the top bolt in place and use a wide putty knife to pry the bottom of the cover away from the differential housing. Oil will begin to drain from the differential, so make sure the pan is under it and catching the oil as it comes out.

4

Remove the last bolt at the top of the cover and lift the cover off the differential. You can now perform whatever work is necessary before reinstalling the cover with a new gasket.

The Chevrolet Impala debuted in 1957. After several production halts, the 2000 model year began with the body style and series that the 2003 Impala uses. The 2003 Impalas upholstery includes adjustable headrests on the front seats. You can slide the headrest adjustments up as needed to remove them from the seat, saving you the cost of automotive detailing.

Instructions

1

Locate the tabs on the inside edge of the round guides around the mounting hole where the headrest posts lock in place.

2

Press both retaining tabs while sliding the headrest up away from the seat back until it stops.

3

Hold the retaining tabs in and pull up firmly to remove the headrest from the seat back.

4

Align the headrest with the mounting holes before reassembly. Press the retaining tabs and hold them while you slide the headrest back into place.

A Tracker is a small sport utility vehicle that was sold under the GEO and Chevrolet nameplates from 1989 to 2004. The Chevrolet Equinox took the Trackers place in the 2005 model year. The oxygen sensor on your Tracker makes sure the correct air/fuel ratio is achieved by sending signals to the engines electronic computer module. Your engine will not run at its maximum efficiency if the oxygen sensor is not operating properly. The first step in replacing the oxygen sensor in your Tracker is to remove the old one.

Instructions

1

Set the parking brake. If the engine has been run recently, let it cool for a few hours before you begin.

2

Raise the vehicle with a hydraulic jack and place jack stands under your Trackers frame to support its weight. Lower the hydraulic jack and set it aside.

3

Crawl under the vehicle on the right hand side (drivers side) near the drivers door. Locate the catalytic converter, which is mounted in-line with the exhaust pipe.

4

Locate the oxygen sensor which is mounted in the exhaust pipe near the rear of the catalytic converter.

5

Remove the wiring harness connector from the oxygen sensor by squeezing in the connector tabs with your fingers while simultaneously pulling the connector from the sensor.

6

Remove the sensor from the exhaust pipe by turning it out with an adjustable wrench in a counterclockwise direction.

Removing the glove box from the dashboard of your Jeep Grand Cherokee may be necessary if you are working on something behind the dashboard or if the glove box has damage to it that requires replacement of the entire assembly. You will not need any tools to remove the glove box, and the entire process takes just a few minutes to complete. Replacement components and assemblies are available from the parts department at any Jeep dealer.

Instructions

1

Open the glove box until the stops on the back edge are resting against the rubber stop bumpers in the upper glove box opening. Reach into the glove box and, with the middle finger of each hand, push the rubber flap on the two glove box stop bumpers toward the front of the vehicle.

2

Roll the glove box door down until the stops on the back edge of the glove box pass through the openings in the upper glove box opening. Grasp both ends of the glove box door, then twist and pull the door as necessary to disengage the inboard hinge hook from the inboard hinge pin on the dashboard.

3

Raise the glove box door until it is perpendicular to the instrument panel then twist the door slightly counterclockwise and shake the door slightly to disengage the remaining two hinge hooks from the instrument panel.

4

Pull the glove box straight out of the dashboard. Set it aside in a safe place so you can reinstall it later if you will be reusing it.

A catalytic converter is an important part of the emissions system in your vehicle, but its also a consumable product. Eventually, it will wear out and break, and when it does, it has to be replaced by a new unit. Thats because its illegal in most states to sell used emissions equipment. Its also not easy to replace, as it requires welding into the exhaust system. Removing a catalytic converter from a 1998 Chevrolet Silverado, however, is as easy as cutting the exhaust.

Instructions

1

Raise the vehicle with the jack, and secure it on jack stands. Double-check that the vehicle is secure before you crawl underneath it. Make sure there is enough room for you to fit underneath the truck while using the reciprocating saw. Put on the eye protection and hearing protection.

2

Locate the catalytic converter on the exhaust. Its shaped like a rectangle with rounded corners and has a flat flange down the sides. Cut the exhaust tubing about 2 inches forward of the catalytic converter, using the reciprocating saw with the metal blade.

3

Cut the exhaust tubing about 2 inches behind the catalytic converter, using the reciprocating saw with the metal blade. Then spray the penetrating fluid in the exhaust hanger attached to the catalytic converter, and use the 24-inch pry bar to remove the hanger and, with it, the catalytic converter.

The Chrysler Town & Country is the marque minivan in the Chrysler stable. Featuring luxury options typically not available on other minivans in its class, the Town & Country is popular with both families and the reviewers at Edmunds. Proper maintenance and replacement of your Town & Countrys headlamps is a painless process that can be completed in minutes without tools.

Instructions

1

Turn off the engine of your Town & Country and ensure the light selector is in the "Off" position.

2

Raise the hood by pulling the lever under the dash and releasing the emergency catch located at the front of the hood. Prop the hood open.

3

Detach the connector from the headlamp by depressing the tabs on each side and pulling the connector straight back.

4

Remove the headlamp by rotating the bulb counterclockwise then pulling it out of the headlamp assembly.

5

Insert the new bulb into the headlamp assembly and lock in place by rotating it clockwise.

6

Reattach the electric connector to the bulb by gently pushing on the headlamp. Repeat these steps for the other headlamp if necessary.

A hydraulic valve lifter lets the valve train ride on a cushion of oil, and automatically adjusts the valve clearance to compensate for changes in engine temperatures. Dirt and sludge build up over time, and the lifter parts gradually wear out. When the vehicle sits for a time, such as overnight, the oil inside the lifters leaks out. When you start the vehicle, the valves tap and rattle until the oil pressure builds up. Removing the valve lifters requires the disassembly of major engine components and caul attention to details.

Instructions

1

Remove the air cleaner, carburetor or throttle body injector, fuel lines and linkages. Remove any vacuum lines or electrical connectors attached to the intake manifold. Label all wires or vacuum hoses to ensure they can be put back into their original locations later. Place a shop rag over the exposed intake manifold where the carburetor or throttle body was removed. Ensure no dirt or other items fall into the intake manifold.

2

Remove the valve covers and set them aside. Loosen the valve adjuster lock nuts and turn the adjuster screws counterclockwise on all valves. The valve rockers should be loose enough to rotate sideways using only your fingers.

3

Drain the radiator coolant into a drain pan. Remove the intake manifold bolts and lift the intake manifold off the engine. Clean any residual gasket material or dirt off the mating surfaces of the manifold and cylinder heads using a scraper or putty knife and shop rags. Use caution and work caully to ensure no dirt or gasket material falls into the exposed engine or cylinder head intake ports.

4

Rotate the valve rocker arms to the side and remove the push rods. Arrange the push rods in order of removal to ensure they can be replaced in exactly the same position later. Remove the valve lifters from the bore using a strong magnet. Organize the lifters in the same way as the push rods, keeping them in order.

5

Inspect the bottom of the lifters for excessive wear. A lifter that is scratched or gouged indicates a worn out camshaft that should be replaced.

Most states require the use of a catalytic converter installed after the exhaust manifold, in line with the exhaust. The catalytic converter--often called the "cat"--acts as a filter and creates better emissions out of the end of the exhaust. Catalytic converters get clogged up over time and need to be replaced with a new one. If not, then the car will run poorly and wont be able to pass emissions testing. First though, you have to remove the catalytic converter.

Instructions

1

Pop the hood. Remove the air-intake tubing from the engine bay using the flat-head screwdriver. Pull the air box up and out of the engine bay. Unbolt the exhaust manifold at the front of the car from the forward exhaust section--which is the section that contains the catalytic converter--using the 3/8-inch ratchet, extension and sockets.

2

Lift up the front of the car with the jack. Put it down on the jack stands and then remove the jack.

3

Locate the oxygen sensors on the forward section of the exhaust, which are cylinders, one-half inch by three inches, that have electrical connections on them. Unplug the harness from the oxygen sensor using your hands.

4

Unbolt the forward section of the exhaust, including the catalytic converter, from the rest of the exhaust using the 3/8-inch ratchet and socket. Lower the forward exhaust section away from the car.

The Harley-Davidson Ironhead Sportster motorcycle has been produced continuously since 1957. Its popularity stems from its simple, yet powerful design and the fact that it easily lends itself to customization. A bad set of steering fork head bearings and cups may cause a shimmy or wobble at highway speeds. This wobble may cause excessive rider fatigue and accelerated tire wear. Replacing the fork cups is required when the bearings have worn past their expected service life. Changing the fork cups is a job you can do yourself to keep your Ironhead safe and easy riding.

Instructions

1

Support the motorcycle on a stand so that the front wheel is clear of the ground. Remove the front axle nut and lock washer. Loosen the fork slider cap nuts, disconnect the speedometer cable and remove the brake caliper.

2

Push the front axle out of the wheel hub and remove the front wheel. Take care not to lose the axle spacers and the speedometer gear drive. Remove the front fender.

3

Turn the fuel selector to the "Off" position and remove the fuel tank. Remove the front trim panel, headlight and front turn indicators. Remove the bolts holding the speedometer/tachometer unit and lay the assembly aside.

4

Remove the fork tube caps and loosen the steering head pinch bolts. Twist and remove the front fork tubes. Reinstall the fork tube caps to ensure that no fork oil is spilled.

5

Remove the upper fork stem end nut and pinch bolts. Remove the upper fork bracket. Pull the steering stem out of the frame. On models built before 1975 the steering head bearings are loose and will fall out when the steering stem is removed. There are 28 bearings: 14 on the top and 14 on the bottom. Do not intermix the bearings, and replace them in complete sets if required.

6

Drive out the fork bearing cup with a 3/4-inch-diameter hardwood rod and hammer. Tap all around the bearing cup from the inside of the stem so that neither the bearing cup nor the head tube is bent.

7

Fit the new fork bearing cups into the end of the head tube. Tap them into place slowly and squarely with a block of wood to prevent bearing damage from the hammer.

8

Reassemble the front end in the reverse order of dissasembly. Add fresh bearing grease on the fork cups to hold the loose bearings in place during reassembly.

The headlamps on your 2001 Lexus IS300 are expensive parts of your luxury sedan that can last decades without any maintenance. But headlamps can crack or break in an accident or when hit by rocks or other road hazards. In such cases, they need to be replaced. Or you might want to switch your headlamps to aftermarket headlamps that are more powerful or stylish. In either case, you can remove your Lexus headlamps in minutes.

Instructions

1

Open the hood and pull back the rubber gasket located behind the headlamp.

2

Open the metal tab on the back of the bulb with a flat-head screwdriver.

3

Turn the bulb counterclockwise and remove it from the headlamp assembly.

4

Remove the three bolts across the top of the headlamp assembly with a socket wrench fitted with a 10 mm socket.

5

Release the tab underneath the weather stripping on the side of the headlamp assembly and remove the assembly.

6

Disconnect the wiring harness by pushing down on the plastic piece on top of the harness, then pulling the plug out of the harness.

Removing the trans axle from a 2000 Chevrolet Malibu is a challenging task that may be accomplished in a well equipped home shop. According to Robert Kautz of ACE Automotive, the job will require an experienced mechanic with a full complement of general automotive repair tools and supplies as well as the special tools listed below. Read the procedure through before starting and wear safety glasses at all times.

Instructions

Preparation

1

Park the vehicle on a level surface. Use the floor jacks to lift it and place the car on the jack stands. Raise it high enough that you can comfortably work on top and get underneath. Be sure all stands are solidly engaged on a firm surface. Try to shake the car, if there is any movement, re-set the stands. Do not get under the vehicle until you are sure it is stable. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2

Use the lengths of rope to secure the radiator and air conditioning condenser. Loop the rope around the units on each side and tie them off using the hood bumpers. Remove the air cleaner box and hose.

3

Attach the engine hoist or support fixture to the engine lifting tabs and adjust so that the full weight of the engine will be supported at all times. You will be removing the bottom engine supports with the transaxle.

Removal

4

Label and disconnect all electrical connections to the engine. Disconnect the shift cable from the transaxle. Remove the harnesses from their brackets on the transaxle and tuck them out of the way.

5

Remove the three engine to transaxel bolts from the top. Loosen the front wheel lugs and drive axel hub nuts. Remove the inner fender splash shields. Use the ball joint tool to separate the control arm balljoints from the steering knuckles to facilitate axel removal. Disconnect the tie rod ends from the steering linkage.

6

Disconnect and label the remaining electrical connectors under the vehicle. Detach them from the brackets on the subframe. Remove the bracket that connects the transaxel to the engine. Remove the bolts securing the torque converter cover and remove the cover. Remove the starter motor. Mark the driveplate and torque converter to indicate their position relative to each other and use the offset box wrench and flywheel tool to remove the bolts connecting the two.

7

Use the flare nut wrenches as necessary to remove all cooler and brake lines obstructing the removal process. Plug the lines to prevent leaks. Disconnect the power steering lines and remove the bolt securing the line on the right side of the subframe. Remove the panel supporting the radiator and condenser.

8

Remove the three transaxle mounts. Position two floor jacks under the transaxel subframe and remove the mounting bolts. Remove the subframe slowly. Remove the left bracket to transaxle mounting bolts and the heater core bracket bolt. Remove the remaining bolts holding the transaxle to the engine.

9

Use the transmission jack to slide the transaxle to the left and lower it slowly.

Removing the gas tank from your 1989 Jeep Wrangler and replacing it with an aftermarket or original equipment (OE) replacement will only take a couple of hours and basic hand tools. Before you start, be sure the gas tank is empty (or as close to it as possible) to reduce the weight of the tank and the possibility of a spill. The tank sits between the frame rails under the rear of the Jeep, all the way to the rear of the frame.

Instructions

1

Position a jack under the rear of the Jeep and raise the vehicle off of the ground. Place a set of jack stands under the rear axle housing and lower the jack, allowing the Jeep to rest on the stands.

2

Locate the two nuts on the j-bolts at the front of the gas tank. Loosen the nuts with a wrench, allowing the tank to sag on the mounts. Reach between the tank and the body of the vehicle and remove the hose clamp from the filler hose on the top of the tank.

3

Disconnect the wiring harness connectors from the terminals on top of the tank and set them aside. Position a floor jack under the center of the tank to support it, and then remove the nuts from the j-bolts.

4

Slowly lower the jack and tank away from the frame of the truck. Remove the steel support straps from under the tank, and then slide the tank out from under the rear of the Jeep.

The law states that every vehicle on the road should have two working headlights, as well as two tail lights. This is for the safety of yourself and the other drivers on the road, as you must be able to see the road in front of you and be warned if a car is slowing down. If you need new tail lights on your Chevrolet Optra, the replacement procedure will only take you a few minutes.

Instructions

1

Go to the back of your Chevrolet Optra and open the trunk. Clear the trunk on the side that the broken tail light is on. You want full access to this area.

2

Move the cloth trunk mat away from the back of the tail light you are fixing. Locate the plastic nuts that are holding the tail light in place. Twist these nuts in a counterclockwise direction until they come all the way off. Use an adjustable wrench if you cannot loosen these with your fingers.

3

Pull the tail light fixture out. If it gets stuck, you can push on the fixture from the inside of the trunk. Use gentle, but firm, pressure to remove the tail light.

4

Replace the tail light with a new fixture. Make sure it is in securely. Tighten the plastic nuts in a clockwise direction and replace the cloth trunk mat.