Fix It

Motor mounts are important automobile parts used to protect the engine, transmission and surrounding components from damage. Motor mounts also reduce the amount of noise and vibration in the vehicle to improve passenger comfort.

Operation

Motor mounts secure the engine and transmission to the body of a vehicle. Motor mounts are made of two plates of steel joined by a large rubber block. One plate is attached to the engine or transmission and the other to the frame. The rubber block cushions the movements of the engine and transmission.

Hydraulic

Though less commonly used than the rubber block design, some motor mounts use hydraulic fluid to cushion the engine and transmission movements. These mounts also use two steel plates but are connected by a small hydraulic cylinder. Some hydraulic mounts adjust while driving to optimize the mounts performance.

Troubleshooting

A defective motor mount allows the engine and transmission to move too far and too quickly. During acceleration or heavy braking, the broken mount may create a thumping noise as the engine or transmission strikes the broken mount. Broken motor mounts should be immediately replaced before this excessive movement causes damage.

The Power Programmer III from Hypertech plugs into a vehicles diagnostic port and asks a series of engine specific yes or no questions. The Power Programmer then makes adjustments to engine settings to maximize performance.

Claims

According to the manufacturer, the Power Programmer III can add up to 120 horse power and 227 ft/lbs of torque to a diesel engine and 57 horse power 60 ft/lbs of torque to a gas engine.

Adjustments

The Power Programmer III can adjust or fine-tune an engines three-stage or duel-fuel tuning, engine rev limiter, cooling fan temperature, transmission shift points and firmness and top speed limiter. It can also make corrections to the speedometer and odometer.

Warnings & Cautions

The Power Programmer III requires a fully charged battery car battery to perform properly and the ignition must remain on. Caully read the manufacturers instructions for details. It is also important to note that the Power Programmer III does not work the same for all makes, models and engines.

The air temperature sensor on the 1997 Chevrolet Tahoe monitors the temperature of the air flowing through the intake into the filter. The engine computer regulates the fuel to air ratio based on the temperature readings from the sensor. Buy a new sensor from an auto parts retailer, and change it at home. The sensor mounts in an accessible location and requires no disassembly to access it.

Instructions

1

Raise the hood of the Tahoe. Support it with the prop rod.

2

Locate the air cleaner assembly at the top of the engine compartment, near the firewall. The air cleaner assembly is a large black box with air intake hoses attached to either side and clips securing the cover.

3

Look for a small wire running to the passenger side of the air cleaner assembly, just above the intake hose. The air temperature sensor connects to the end of the wire, threaded into the air cleaner assembly.

Catalytic converters chemically change toxic car emissions into relatively harmless substances like water vapor and carbon dioxide. The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency required the devices on all new cars in the United States in 1975. Since then, the converters have prevented millions of tons of harmful carbon monoxide, unburned hydrocarbons and nitrogen oxides from turning into air pollution, according to an industry group, CatalyticConverter.org.

Catalysts

A catalyst is a material that starts or speeds up a chemical reaction. Catalytic converters use combinations of precious metals as catalysts to transform toxic gases in engine exhaust. Platinum and rhodium cause nitrogen oxides to separate into harmless oxygen and nitrogen. Platinum and palladium help oxidize carbon monoxide and unburned hydrocarbons. The metals used as catalysts are valuable. About half of all converters are recycled to reclaim their catalyst metals.

Housing and Core

Converters usually have a stainless steel outer shell coated with a thin layer of aluminum. The inner core is often made of a ceramic honeycomb coated with an extremely thin layer of the catalyst material. A honeycomb structure is used to maximize the catalyst surface area that the exhaust gases contact.

Emission Control

Sensors monitor exhaust emissions before and after they go through the converter and relay the information to an emission-control system. The control system uses data on oxygen levels to adjust the vehicles fuel injection, maintaining the air-to-fuel mix needed for the converter to operate at maximum efficiency.

The Dodge Charger debuted in 1966. Marketed as a muscle car, the Charger appealed to both young and old during its 12-year production run. Dodge manufactured a subcompact car bearing the Charger name from 1983 to 1987. In 2006, Chrysler brought back the full-size sedan, which adopted many styling cues from the 1960s Chargers. The third-generation Charger features a Chrysler 3.5-liter V-6 or Hemi V-8 engine and a number options and accessories. Although some accessories are nearly impossible to repair or replace, removal of the ashtray requires only a few basic tools.

Instructions

1

Pry up the chrome ring from around the shift lever using a tapered fiber stick or a small protected flat-blade screwdriver. Remove the ring, and set it aside.

2

Remove the rubber mat from the center console, and set it aside.

3

Remove the two screws that hold the shift lever bezel.

4

Pry up the shift lever bezel using a fiber stick or a small protected flat-blade screwdriver. Remove the bezel, and set it aside.

5

Apply the parking brake, and move the shift lever to "Drive."

6

Pry off the ashtray housing using a tapered fiber stick or small protected flat-blade screwdriver. The housing is held in with clips on the side; you may have to rock the housing slightly to slide it over the clips. Remove the housing, and set it aside.

7

If the Charger has heated seats, disconnect the wire harness to the switches. Tilt the ashtray, and remove it from the opening.

An exhaust is an important vehicle component that funnels and scrubs engine byproducts while reducing engine noise. Stainless steel is one of two basic types of exhaust materials. The other material is regular steel. Stainless steel exhausts are less likely to rust and can be visually more appealing.

More Durable

A stainless-steel exhaust is less prone to rust, according to the online automotive magazine Matey-Matey. The rust process is extremely slow, compared with regular steel that can rust within three years of use. Stainless steel exhausts vary by grade: The lower the grade; the better the exhaust. For example, 304 and 316 grade exhausts are superior to a 409-grade exhaust, which offers less resistance to corrosion, though still better than regular steel.

Visually Appealing

Stainless steel is more visually appealing, because its not likely to rust and discolor. In addition, these exhausts initially have a polished finish and brilliant shine. As long as you keep the exhaust system clean, the finish retains its original appearance and does not tarnish.

Emits Fumes Faster

According to Stainless Online, a stainless-exhaust kit manufacturer, stainless-steel exhausts are more efficient ventilation systems, which reduces heat buildup in the engine. This may justify their increased cost. Matey-Matey says several stainless steel exhausts come with a lifetime guarantee.

Life-Time Guarantee

While the computerized engine management systems that run todays cars are extremely complex and require increasing specialized diagnostic equipment and tools, all gasoline-burning engines must still have spark plugs. The plugs allow a properly timed spark of electricity to jump through the flammable mixture introduced into the top of the piston chamber, causing ignition. Ascertaining their condition is done more through familiarity and interpretive knowledge than through the use of a single piece of equipment.

Know Your Plugs

The terms cold plug and hot plug are often used, and a knowledge of what to expect from the plug is necessary in determining its condition. The terms er to the ability of the material that the plug is made from to transfer heat, in this instance from the point at which the spark occurs into the engine block for dissipation. A cold plug transfers heat quickly and does not work well at extremely high temperatures. A hot plug transfers heat poorly, allowing heat to build up to approximately 1,550 degrees Fahrenheit, and is designed to work in that way; hot plugs are less susceptible to fouling because they burn off contamination. Identification is a question of experience: In general, hot plugs have longer insulator tips.

Visual Condition

Always allow an engine to fully cool before attempting any service work, including the removal of spark plugs. If the insulator tip of a plug that has been in service looks pale gray, or pale gray with a yellow or brown tint, the engine is running correctly, the spark plug gap is set correctly and the plug is torqued correctly into the receiver. Dull, black carbonization on the tip suggests that too-cold plugs are in use, and they should be replaced with hotter-running units. As with all visual indications, this symptom could also indicate problems elsewhere in the engine, in this instance a bad fuel mixture. Melting at the electrode indicates either that the plug was incorrectly torqued into position or that the heat range of the plug is not as suggested for the engine.

Gapping

The space between the electrode and the insulator tip must be exact for the plug to function correctly. Spark plug gap-testing tools are a set of wafer-thin blades -- each blade looks something like a fingernail cleaner -- that rotate on a pivot in and out of a case. These tools used to be ubiquitous in every do-it-yourselfers and professionals kit, but modern engines and plug technology have made them all but redundant. New plugs are now delivered with the gap precisely set and do not deform under any but the most extreme of engine conditions. If a modern spark plug gap changes under use, that is a symptom, not a cause; the cause must be determined by engine diagnostics and the plug set replaced after rectification of the fault.

Equipment

An array of equipment is available to test spark plug condition, but the visual checks suggested and a regular maintenance schedule make the investment practically unnecessary, even for the professional. The spark plug gapping tool is, as noted, all but redundant in modern vehicle maintenance practices. Working according to the manufacturers instructions, it is possible to use a volt-ohmmeter to ascertain the circuit load.

Voltage Testing

Metered spark gap testers are available that plug into the coil to measure the jump of the spark. Capable of handling current between 0 and 40,000 volts, the tool diagnoses faults in the coil, the ignition wires and the plugs.

Testing Spark Plug Wires

Inline spark testers that use a bulb do not give a metered reading, but they do give an instant indication of whether a coil-wire-plug circuit is operational. The device is inserted between the plug and the wire, after you have first removed the wire from the top of the plug. When the engine is turned over a bulb flashes if the circuit is functional but does not flash if it is faulty. Compact ignition testers are extremely simple to use to verify that there is a spark to the plug. Fitted into a plug wire end and clamped to the engine, they should spark when the engine is turned over. If they do not, there is a problem upstream of the device.

Before changing the camshaft sensor on your 1992 Buick Park Avenue, you must determine its location on the engine; the sensor is tucked away under the water pump, and while you can see it from the top of the engine, replacing it requires you to work under the front of the car. A replacement sensor is available from most auto parts stores or through a Buick dealership.

Instructions

1

Open the hood of your Park Avenue and locate the water pump on the front of the engine. You will see the water pump is the front-center of the engine block.

2

Look near the base of the water pump pulley, along the bottom edge: You will see an electrical connector and harness.

3

Follow the harness in toward the block, until you can see a small, round sensor threaded into the block--this is the camshaft sensor.

Solenoids are used in a variety of systems, but most commonly in cars. Starters in particular use solenoids. Often when a vehicles starter is malfunctioning the solenoid is the problem.

Definition of a Solenoid

Solenoids are a type of electric motor. They are commonly used in cars as heavy duty relays. The technical definition of a solenoid is a device or motor that can produce back and forth, or linear, motion when a force is applied. Solenoids will respond to hydraulic, pneumatic or electrical force.

Solenoids as Actuators in Cars

Solenoids are mainly used in cars as actuators. A solenoid will move a component a certain distance after electricity has been applied. Starters are probably the most common actuator component. Another common usage in vehicles is as a relay. A solenoid closes a circuit when electricity is applied.

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Types of Solenoids

Solenoids can also be used in propane, nitrous-injections and propane systems. Fuel injectors are also solenoid valves. There are different types of solenoids. The push type uses a spring to hold the solenoid closed; it opens when voltage is applied. The pull type pushes out a solenoid arm when electricity is applied. A third type is push/pull, which works in both directions.

Solenoid Mechanics

A solenoid has a coil set that it uses to induce a magnetic field on a permanent magnet. The magnet will either be attracted or repelled when power is applied to the coil. In a car, the solenoid in the starter is a relay which moves metal contacts into place which closes a circuit. The solenoid is sent an electrical current when the ignition key is turned. This triggers the magnetic field of the solenoid that pulls on the contacts, closing the circuit.

The Ford Econoline (E-150) model of van was introduced in the 1960s and had a major redesign in 1975 that lasted through 1991. As of 2010, models of this van are still in production. This van is still the base model that most commercial delivery vans are built off of, and it shares many chassis and undercarriage elements with the F-series truck.

Gas Tank Capacity

The original equipment fuel tank for the Ford E-150 van is a 22-gallon fuel tank. Replacement parts are available.

Gas Tank Placement

The E-150 places the fuel tank behind the rear axle of the van in the 1989 model; after 1992, the placement of the fuel tank was changed to accommodate a 37-gallon fuel tank.

Gas Tank Construction

Like nearly every gas tank made since the 1960s, the gas tanks for the E-150 are made out of steel, coated with zinc as an anti-corrosion barrier.

The catalytic converter is part of an automobiles exhaust system. Its function is to convert carbon monoxide and other organic compounds into less environmentally harmful emissions, such as carbon dioxide and water. The catalytic converter helps reduce automotive pollutants and toxic emissions.

History

In the late 1960s, California and other states began requiring the automotive industry to reduce the level of emissions released by cars and trucks. By 1975, the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) and federal government established stringent regulations for the reduction of emissions. As a result, automotive engineers designed and developed an external converter through which gases would pass and be altered to less harmful products. Today nearly all internal combustion engine vehicles use catalytic converters.

Defining a Catalyst

A catalyst is a substance that allows a chemical reaction to occur at a faster rate or different temperature than it would under normal conditions. In a cars catalytic converter, the surface of the converter (part of the exhaust system) is coated with platinum or rhodium which serves as the catalyst in combination with high heat.

What Happens

Automotive exhaust, which is produced by the internal combustion engine, is a combination of nitrogen, carbon monoxide, organic compounds and water vapor. As the exhaust passes through the catalytic converter, it undergoes a chemical reaction when it comes into contact with the catalyst. The catalyst separates the nitrogen atoms from the oxygen and alters the other organic compounds. The gases are modified into less harmful byproducts and released into the environment.

Location

While the exact location varies by make and model of vehicle, the catalytic converter is mounted with the exhaust system. Typically, it is placed near the vehicles engine between the exhaust manifold and the exhaust pipes where fumes can pass through it before being released into the environment. Heat plates separate the catalytic converter from the exhaust manifold, protecting the vehicles engine from high heat.

All cars have some sort of transmission, be it automatic, manual or continuously variable. Only manuals are erred to as "gearboxes," since they use only a set of gears instead of a series of clutches and shafts.

Purpose

Transmissions use differential gear ratios to multiply engine torque, helping the car to accelerate quicker at low speeds. Torque multiplication is directly related to the number of teeth on the input gear vs the output gear. Example: if the input gear has 10 teeth and the output gear has 30, gear reduction comes out to 3-to-1.

Basic Parts

A normal gearbox has an input shaft and an output shaft with a number of gears mounted to each. As you move along the transmission, the gears on the input shaft get larger while those on the output shaft get smaller.

Engagement

The input and output shaft gears are in constant mesh, but the output shaft gears simply freewheel on the output shaft until the driver locks the two together. When the driver engages the gear, a cog fixed to the output shaft slips inside a receiver hole in the output gear, locking the output gear to the shaft.

When replacing gaskets in an automobiles engine, mechanics will sometimes use a glue to help hold the gasket in place. If these gaskets fail and need to be replaced, you must completely remove the residual gasket glue so that the new gasket will rest properly and create a tight seal. You can effectively remove residual gasket with a chemical solvent and a gasket scraper. Use the solvent to loosen the glue, and then use the scraper to remove the gasket glue from the surface.

Instructions

1

Remove as much residual gasket glue as possible using a plastic or metal scraping instrument. Be caul not to gouge the metal around where the gasket glue is being removed.

2

Follow the gasket glue remover manufacturers instructions and either spray the remover onto the metal surface, or apply the remover with a paint brush.

3

Allow the gasket glue remover to sit on the surface and loosen the material. Follow the glue remover manufacturers instructions regarding sitting time, typically 20 to 30 minutes.

4

Scrape the gasket glue off the surface with the gasket scraper, once the sitting time for the glue remover expires.

5

Repeat this process as necessary to completely remove all residual glue.

Unlike the first mass-produced cars of a century ago, cars today have advanced control systems that are computer dependent. Being computer dependent, more and more information about how the car is functioning goes to the on-board computer. The vehicle speed sensors are the gatherers of this information.

Vehicle Speed Sensor Description

Cars manufactured today are dependent on on-board computers. The computer receives the information it needs to have a car operate properly from strategically located vehicle speed sensors. Most vehicle speed sensors are of the permanent magnet type. They function similarly to a cam shaft or crankshaft sensor. The installed sensors are either in the transmission case or rear differential assembly. When a speed sensor fails, the cars check engine light comes on and a code goes to the computer and can be read at a service station.

Locating Speed Sensors

This code indicates which sensor has failed and what the problem is. Occasionally, a sensor will fail without sending a code. If the driveability of the car is suspect, say the power steering isnt working and the ABS brakes are stuttering, a mechanic can check the vehicles manual and quickly find if the same speed sensor is controlling both modules.

Speed Sensors Control Many Functions

Modules or functions that use information from vehicle speed sensors include the variable assist power steering unit where the information from a speed sensor regulates the power steering pressure with higher pressure at low speeds and vice versa. This makes things like parallel parking maneuvers easier.

A cars anti-lock braking system (ABS) also uses information from a speed sensor to decide when a wheel has locked up and thus commands the ABS to cut pressure in order for the driver to maintain control of the car. While some cars use separate sensors for the ABS, it is common that the computer uses the information from the wheel sensors to act as a vehicle speed sensor. For example, many newer Ford vehicles use a rear axle mounted speed sensor for ABS and vehicle speed functions that are computer related.

Both traditional and hybrid cars use information from vehicle speed sensors for the speedometer display.

Many new cars have developed suspension systems that use vehicle speed sensor information to control the height of the ride. They adjust the ride down for better control at higher speeds for improved maneuverability.

Automatic transmissions must have the information from a vehicle speed sensor to decide shift strategy.

Additionally, cruise control depends on speed sensor information to know when to engage and when to disengage, as well as when to cruise at a set speed.

All Electronic Engine Control (EEC) systems use some speed sensor information to perform their tasks.

Knowing when to replace the drive belt on your car can save you thousands of dollars in repair costs. There is no "quick fix" should your drive belt break from too much wear and tear. Regularly check the belt to avoid getting stranded -- and monster repair bills. Serpentine belts, standard V-belts and "cogged" V-belts are the three main types used.

Serpentine Belt

Controlled by a belt tensioner or an idle pulley, the serpentine belt is also known as the "poly-V-belt." According to an article on the Engine Blox website, this belt was named from its flexible nature, allowing it to "snake" around pulleys. The belt is wide and can withstand higher tension than older belts, reducing stress on the engine and boosting gas mileage. A serpentine belt needs to be replaced every five years or 50,000 miles, according to AA1Car.com. Most new cars include a diagram under the hood that explains how to replace it.

Standard V-belt

The V-belt is a half inch wide. Narrower than the serpentine belt, it is typically found on older automobiles. Its tapered sides fit between pulleys or gears and it works best with light loads, since the flat base does not rotate gears precisely. A standard V-belt should be replaced every three years or 36,000 miles, and replacement costs roughly half the price of a serpentine belt, according to International Auto Repair.

Cogged V-belt

The cogged belt is similar to the standard V-belt, except that it has grooved base. These grooves allow a firm grip on gears and engine accessories, making the belt ideal for high-load applications. As does the standard V belt, the cogged belt should be replaced every three years or 36,000 miles.

Keeping your car in good running condition is important. Paying attention to unusual noises or issues your car may be having is essential to diagnose a problem with your vehicle before it develops into a serious repair job. Engine misfiring can be the result of any number of factors, from faulty wiring to the engine not running on all cylinders. If you notice any of these signs of misfiring, take your car into a mechanic immediately to get it checked out.

Engine Problems

Since misfiring often indicates a larger problem with your engine, issues that come from using the engine in your car are often a clear sign. Difficulty starting your car and getting the engine to turn over are a common symptom of misfiring. The engine may also stumble or hesitate while you drive. While accelerating or decelerating, the engine might buck or speed up suddenly.

Shudders and Shakes

One of the most commonly noticed indicators of misfiring is a shudder passing through the vehicle. Shaking and shuddering can range from small vibrations that only you notice, or full-on shaking throughout the car. Often, moisture and humidity can exacerbate the problem, and you will noticed increased shuddering on rainy or overly humid days. Shuddering and shaking can happen during driving or when the car is sitting idle, so pay attention to any unexpected movement within the car regardless of your speed.

Slow Acceleration

Difficulty accelerating and decelerating is another potential sign of misfiring. Often, the engine will stall out during a fast accelerating, or suddenly jump and accelerate more quickly than you intended. It also might take more effort than usual to get your car to accelerate, and when it does, the acceleration will happen much more slowly than normally.

Flashing Check Engine Light

Although this may seem an obvious symptom, the "Check Engine" light on many cars indicates different things depending on its behavior. A flashing or blinking "Check Engine" light can specifically indicate a misfire. Take your car into a trained mechanic for a check-up if you notice the light flashing, and he should be able to diagnose the cause through the diagnostic code provided by the cars computer.

The Jetta has been manufactured by Volkswagen since 1979. Since its introduction, Volkswagen has equipped the Jetta with a stereo system. The Jetta stereo requires a switched power source and a constant power source to function properly. A switched power source is off when the vehicle is off, which prevents the stereo from draining the battery. A constant power source provides continuous power to the stereo, enabling it to retain station presets and the time.

Instructions

Constant Power

1

Open the hood. Disconnect the black negative wire connected to the battery, using a small crescent wrench.

2

Slide the factory radio from the dash of the Jetta, exposing the wires. This procedure will vary by model year. Consult the owners manual for specific directions.

3

Connect a power wire with in-line fuse to the positive terminal on the Jettas battery, using a small crescent wrench. The in-line fuse should be as close to the battery as possible.

4

Route the power wire from the battery through an existing hole in the rear wall of the engine compartment that separates the engine from the seating area. You may need to drill a hole to do this.

5

Route the power wire through the Jettas dashboard to the rear of the radio and trim the excess length with wire cutters.

6

Locate the yellow constant-power wire coming from the back of the factory stereo.

7

Remove the plastic wire coating from the ends of both the yellow wire from the radio and the power wire with in-line fuse. Connect them by twisting the bare wire ends together and wrapping with electrical tape.

Switched power

8

Locate the red switched-power wire coming from the back of the factory stereo.

9

Remove the plastic wire coating from the ends of the switched power wire and a 5-foot section of stereo wire. Twist the bare ends of both wires together and wrap in electrical tape.

10

Route the stereo wire through the Jettas dashboard to the fuse box.

11

Remove the radio fuse from the fuse box by erring to the diagram in the owners manual.

12

Remove the plastic coating from the end of the stereo wire that is closest to the fuse box and attach the bare wire to a fuse tap.

13

Reinsert the radio fuse and the fuse tap together in the fuse box.

14

Reinstall the radio and connect the negative battery cable. Close the hood.

The Cadillac DeVille is a top-selling luxury sedan, but like all cars, it may experience some common problems. One such problem is the gearshift getting stuck in "Park" because of a faulty part known as the "Brake Transmission Shift Interlock" or "Brake Shift Interlock Solenoid." This component tells the car that the brake is not engaged and it locks the shifter into place. One fix for the 1993 Cadillac DeVille is to manually manipulate the frozen solenoid to unlock it.

Instructions

1

Start the engine and let the 1993 DeVille warm up. On some GM cars, including the Cadillac line, once the engine has warmed up, the gearshift may be operable. Also, check to ensure the brake pedal is working by pressing down on it. If warming up the car doesnt resolve the problem, go on to the next step.

2

Manually trip the brake shift interlock solenoid. Start the car. Lift the rubber panel cover under the ashtray and open the under-dash compartment door.

3

Shine a flashlight into the under-dash compartment and look for an orange lever tab. Push orange lever tab toward the hood of the DeVille to override the automatic lock manually. Listen for a click that indicates the solenoid has been released.

4

Depress the brake pedal again and attempt to shift the Cadillac into gear.

Crimping is the process of connecting a wire to a terminal. Since this is where the wire comes to an end, sometimes crimping is erred to as terminating. A wide variety of crimps are available. They are classified by how they connect to the wire. Selecting a type of crimp will depend greatly on the application. A crimp used in your washing machine will likely not be suitable for your car.

Types of Crimps

There are three basic styles of wire crimps. These include the quick-connect, the ring and the spade. Each of these styles has a number of design variations that affect how the wire is connected to the terminal. In a closed-barrel style, the stripped end of the wire is inserted into a cylindrical end of the crimp. In an open-barrel style, the end of the terminal is shaped like a "U" and allows the wire to pass from the top down. Crimps can be further classified by the shape they make after they have been closed. Shapes include the "O," the "B," and the "U." The "B" crimp is most commonly used in straight wire applications. The "B" can be used in insulated applications as well. However, the "O" is often perred and even required as it does not damage any of the internal insulation.

Types of Crimping Tools

The ratchet style and pliers style are the two basic styles of crimping tools. You can also find combination and specialty tools. Regardless of which type you select, the crimping tool will be classified as either cup to cup or point to cup. This ers to the teeth in the biting edge. Cup-to-cup tools form a small "O" when squeezed together, while point-to-cup tools have teeth that fit into cutouts on the opposite side.

The Four Rules of a Good Crimp

Crimping can be one of the most efficient means of terminating your wires. However, if it is done incorrectly, crimping will cause failure in the whole system. According to Molex, an expert crimping company in Lisle, Ill., the following four rules will prevent crimping problems:

"1.Choose the right connector for your application requirements."

"2. Use the crimp tooling specified by the terminal manufacturer."

"3. Properly adjust and maintain the crimp tooling in good working order."

"4. Periodically replace the parts that displace metal (e.g. conductor and insulation punches, anvils and terminal cutters)."

The Chrysler HEMI engine was first manufactured in the 1950s. Variables in piston design include the piston type, piston pin types and number of rings found on each piston.

HEMI Engines

Hemispherically-shaped combustion engines (HEMIs), first manufactured by Chrysler in the 1950s, were further developed in the 1960s and 1970s. Newer versions are considered lightweight compared to similar engines.

Types

Chrysler HEMI engines use a horizontal slot piston with a steel strut. They use free floating piston pins and have three rings per piston. They are manufactured using an aluminum alloy with a tin coat.

Longevity

Some Chrysler HEMI engine blocks, such as the 6.1-liter engine, come with revised coolant channels and oil jets used to cool the pistons. This decreases wear and increases the devices longevity.