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Honda produced the F22A6 for use in the Honda Accord during the years 1991 through 1993. The Honda Accord was manufactured during these years as a coupe, sedan and a wagon in trim levels that included the DX, SE, LX and EX. Most Accords during these years were manufactured with manual transmissions, although the 1991 Accord SE sedan and 1992 Accord SE sedan and coupe used an automatic transmission.

General

The F22A6 is an in-line four-cylinder engine built in a single overhead cam configuration. In the 1991 to 1993 Honda Accord, it was configured as a front-wheel-drive engine. In the various trim levels, it achieved 19 to 22 mpg in the city, 25 to 28 mpg on the highway, and 21 to 24 mpg combined.

Displacement

The F22A6 has a displacement of 2,156 cubic centimeters or 132 cubic inches, and was listed as a 2.2-liter engine. The cylinder bore measures 85 millimeters and the piston stroke 95 millimeters with a compression ratio of 8.8:1.

Power

Basic engine horsepower of the F22A6 without accessories is listed at 140 horsepower at 5,600 rpm. Installed in the Accord, it delivers 125 horsepower to the wheels at 5,200 rpm. The F22A6 is capable of 142 foot-lbs. of torque at 5,400 rpm but in the Accord delivers 137 foot-lbs. at 4,000 rpm.

The Power Programmer III from Hypertech plugs into a vehicles diagnostic port and asks a series of engine specific yes or no questions. The Power Programmer then makes adjustments to engine settings to maximize performance.

Claims

According to the manufacturer, the Power Programmer III can add up to 120 horse power and 227 ft/lbs of torque to a diesel engine and 57 horse power 60 ft/lbs of torque to a gas engine.

Adjustments

The Power Programmer III can adjust or fine-tune an engines three-stage or duel-fuel tuning, engine rev limiter, cooling fan temperature, transmission shift points and firmness and top speed limiter. It can also make corrections to the speedometer and odometer.

Warnings & Cautions

The Power Programmer III requires a fully charged battery car battery to perform properly and the ignition must remain on. Caully read the manufacturers instructions for details. It is also important to note that the Power Programmer III does not work the same for all makes, models and engines.

Chevrolets 454 Big Block engine has been through several phases over its production span. The engine began as a major player in the muscle car wars of the 1970s, gaining notoriety for its ability to generate serious horsepower and torque. Displacing 7.4 liters, this V8 was never intended to be fuel efficient, but rather was paired with a four barrel carburetor for maximum output.

Background

In the height of the muscle car era, as car manufacturers focused on designing engines that were larger and faster, Chevrolet introduced the 454. This throaty powerplant was reserved for high performance upgrades on Camaros, Chevelles and Corvettes. The 454 especially enhanced the reputation of the Chevelle as a muscle car.

Shortly after its introduction, climbing gas prices and increased regulation on auto emissions influenced auto makers to focus on smaller engines. The 454 was transferred to Chevys truck line and used in its heavy-duty half and three-quarter ton pickups. In the mid-1990s the engine was redesigned and renamed the Vortec 7400, before being phased phased out of production in 2000.

Performance Specifications

The 454 was available as an LS5, LS6 and LS7 in the 1970s. The most powerful version available to the public was the 1970 LS6. When installed in the Chevelle or Camaro, this engine could deliver 450 horsepower at 5,600 rpm. In the Chevelle, the LS6 had a maximum torque of 500 ft-lbs at 3,200 rpm. Camaros could also achieve this torque at 3,600 rpm. The horsepower was decreased when the 454 was transferred to pickup trucks. When the 454 was first introduced as the Vortec 7400 in 1996, it was rated at 290 horsepower.

Engine Specifications

This 7.4 liter engine is one of the larger engines made by Chevrolet. The 1970 to 1974 high performance versions had a 4.00-inch stroke and 4.251-inch bore. The timing order is 18436572, with a distributor cap that spins clockwise. Engine oil is the primary lube or sealer, and is used on the main caps, connecting rod bolts, cylinder heads, oil pump and pan, timing cover, valve cover, centerbolt and on the bellhousing between the transmission and the engine block.

When performing repairs on a 2001 Jeep Wrangler, it is imperative that the correct torque is applied when installing certain bolts. The manufacturer calculates torque specs for the Wrangler based on a combination of bolt strength and the component it is holding. Torque values are verified by the use of a torque wrench that alerts the user of the proper torque through an audible signal, typically a clicking noise.

Lug Nuts

Lug nuts are very commonly just tightened until the nut no longer turns. Most inexperienced mechanics believe that the tighter the lug nut the better, but this is far from the truth. Over-tightening a lug nut stretches the threads of the wheel stud and can lead to breakage once it is heated from driving. This breakage can lead to the other wheel studs breaking due to excessive weight; the resulting domino effect can cause the wheel to fall off. The proper lug nut torque on the 2001 Jeep Wrangler is 110 foot-pounds.

Brakes

When performing brake repairs, each bolt has its own, equally important, torque specification. There are two sets of bolts on the brake system that have specific torque values: caliper bolts and brake hose bolts. The brake caliper bolts require a torque of 18 foot-pounds. The brake hose bolts have a rating of 23 foot-pounds.

Cylinder Head

The cylinder head on the Wranglers engine has a seal that must be torqued to the proper specs in order to seal correctly. The 2.5 liter 4-cylinder engine requires head bolts numbers 1 through 6 and 8 through 10 to have a final torque value of 110 foot-pounds, and bolt number 7 to have 100 foot-pounds of torque (see Resources for bolt numbering). The 4.0 liter engine requires bolt numbers 1 through 10 and 12 through 14 to have a final torque value of 110 foot-pounds and bolt number 11 to have a final value of 100 foot-pounds.

Exhaust Manifold

The exhaust manifold uses a compression-style gasket that requires proper torque to maintain a good seal. Bolt number 1 requires 30 foot-pounds and 2 through 7 require 23 foot-pounds (see Resources for bolt numbering). These values apply to both the 2.5 and 4.0 liter engines.

Oil Pan

The oil pan has two different fasteners, each having their own torque values: 1/4-inch bolts and 5/16-inch bolts. The 1/4-inch bolts require 85 inch-pounds of torque and the 5/16-inch bolts require 11 foot-pounds. These values apply for both the 2.5 and 4.0 liter engines.

Timing Chain Cover

The timing chain cover must be removed when performing timing chain maintenance. This cover has a seal and requires proper torque to obtain a good seal and prevent leaks. The bolts around the timing chain cover require 60 inch-pounds of torque on the 1/4-inch bolts and 192 inch-pounds on the 5/16-inch bolts.

Clutch adjustment procedures and hardware on all Harley-Davidson Big Twins and Sportsters manufactured since 1990 are identical. Once you learn to adjust the clutch on your bike you can adjust the clutch on any recent Harley. And, with some sight in at least one eye and the slightest practical intelligence you will quickly see how to adjust the clutch on any Harley made since the Second World War. There are only two clutch adjustment specifications for your Custom 1200 Sportster. The first is to adjust the cable lever to 1/8 inch free play. The second is to back out the clutch adjusting screw one half to one full turn. This is how you get there.

Clutch Cable Adjuster Nut

Support your Sportster on a motorcycle jack or secure the front wheel in a motorcycle chock or motorcycle clamp so the bike stands fully upright. Run your hand down the cable that attaches to the clutch housing until your fingers find a bellows-shaped, black, rubber boot. Pull this black boot up to expose a short nut called the cable adjuster nut and a long nut called the cable adjuster lock nut. Using two hands, slide an open-end wrench on both nuts and turn the nuts in opposite directions.

Loosen Clutch Cable

Remove the wrenches when the nuts are loose. Turn the small, clutch cable adjuster nut with your fingers until the nut is at the top of the threads and the clutch cable is completely slack. Pull the black sleeve on the top of the clutch cable near the clutch lever away from the clutch housing. Spray aerosol cable lubricant into the sleeve so it will drip down the length of the clutch cable.

Remove Derby Cover

Draw two lines across the derby cover that extend onto the primary cover, with a grease pencil or similar marker, so you will be able to return the derby cover to exactly the same position later. Remove the six Allen-head screws that hold the derby cover in the primary cover with an Allen socket and a socket wrench. Remove the cover. Remove the gasket and throw it away.

Adjust The Clutch

Separate the clutch plates by tightening the clutch adjusting screw, in the exact center of the clutch, with an Allen wrench. Back out the clutch adjusting screw at least four turns. Tighten the clutch adjusting screw slowly until it just bottoms out. Back out the clutch adjustment screw one-half to one full turn.

Replace Derby Cover

Put a new derby cover gasket on the inside of the derby cover so the red Harley logo on the gasket will face the clutch. Align the holes in the gasket and the cover. Replace the derby cover to the exact position it was in when you removed it, using the grease pencil marks as your guide. Replace and tighten all six derby cover screws with an Allen socket and a socket wrench.

Adjust Clutch Cable

Re-tighten the clutch cable adjusting nut until the clutch cable re-seats in the housing and there is no free play in the clutch lever at all. Loosen the clutch cable adjuster nut 1/2 turn at a time until there is 1/8 inch free play in the clutch lever before you feel tension. Immobilize the clutch cable adjuster nut with an open-end wrench and simultaneously tighten the cable adjuster lock nut with a second open-end wrench until the two nuts fit snugly together. Replace the clutch cable adjuster boot.

The first double overhead camshaft engine was a two valve, and it was made for the Peugeot in 1913. Other early incarnations of the DOHC included the Alfa Romeo (1925), the Maserati (1926) and the Bugatti (1931). The Ford Motor Company first used the DOHC in its Kent (1962), and General Motors first used it in 1975 in its Cosworth 2300.

Design Specifications

The DOHC engine was designed using two separate camshafts mounted above the cylinders. Two camshafts can be found in each cylinder head, and each one controls the intake and exhaust valves. This means that in a DOHC V engine, there are four camshafts -- two for one cylinder head and two for the other.

Camshaft Operation and Spark Plug Location Specifications

In a DOHC engine, the camshaft controls the valves in two ways: directly or by using a short rocker. Camshaft adjustable pulleys can be used in a DOHC engine, which help improve the timing of the opening and closing of the valves. You can also install cams in a DOHC engine that will improve your cam lobe profile because you can moderate the lobe shape easier than in a single overhead camshaft engine. In a DOHC engine the spark plug is placed in the middle of the combustion chamber. Being in the middle improves the combustion efficiency of the engine.

Power Specifications

A DOHC engine is heavier than a single overhead camshaft (SOHC) engine. This means that a 16 valve SOHC engine would have a greater torque than the DOHC engine at low engine speeds. However, when the engine speeds are operating at their maximum, a 16 valve DOHC would have higher peak torque and horsepower levels.

There are three basic types of wheel lug nuts: conical; mag or shank style; and ball seat or spherical. When replacing a wheel or lug nuts, it is important that the correct lug nuts are used. The thread diameter, pitch and seat of different types of lug nuts are not the same and they are not interchangeable. Proper installation of a wheel requires that the lug-nut torque be set to the recommended specification for your vehicle to prevent damage.

Torque Specification Conditions

Torque specifications are for clean, dry threads that are free of dirt. Never apply anti-seize lubricants to the threads of a lug nut unless directed to do so. The use of anti-seize lubricants can result in inaccurate torque values that may cause over torquing and damage to the lug nuts or vehicle rotors and brake drums.

Lug Nut Specifications

The thread or shank diameter of a lug nut is the diameter of the stud part of the lug nut measured across the shank from the outer edges of the threads. Thread-pitch can mean the number of threads per inch, or if listed in millimeters, the distance in millimeters between the threads. The seat is the area on the wheel where the lug nut will tighten down.

Typical Torque Values

The proper torque specification for your vehicle can be found in your owners manual or your vehicles shop manual. If you cannot find the proper torque specification, the following values can be used until your vehicles exact torque value can be confirmed. You will need to know the shank diameter of your lug nut to find the typical torque range.

(Shank diameter) = (Torque range in foot-pounds)

12 mm = 70 to 80

14 mm = 85 to 90

7/16 inches = 70 to 80

1/2 inches = 75 to 85

9/16 inches = 135 to 145

5/8 inches = 125 to 135

The Kia Rio is a small, inexpensive car that was first introduced to the U.S. marketplace during the 2001 model year. The 2001 and 2002 model years featured a 1.5-liter DOHC engine, which was upgraded to a more powerful 1.6-liter DOHC engine for model years 2003 through 2005. In 2006 the Rio design was given a significant overhaul, which included a change to a more powerful and refined 1.6-liter DOHC CVVT engine. Each of these Rio engines has a slightly different specification for head bolt torque.

2001 and 2002 Models

The head bolts on the 1.5-liter DOHC engine should be tightened according to the following procedure. There are a total of 10 bolts arranged in pairs across the engine. The bolts should first be tightened in sequence to a specification of 36 foot-pounds, starting with the middle two bolts and proceeding in sequence out towards either end of the engine. The bolts should then be loosened again in reverse sequential order, and then tightened again in the sequential order to a specification of 18 foot-pounds. Each bolt should then be marked, and each should be tightened an additional quarter turn, following the same sequence.

2003 Through 2005 Models

The head bolts on the 1.6-liter DOHC engine should be tightened according to the following procedure. There are a total of 10 bolts arranged in pairs across the engine. The bolts should first be tightened in sequence to a specification of 36 foot-pounds, starting with the middle two bolts and proceeding in sequence out towards either end of the engine. The bolts should then be loosened again in reverse sequential order, and then tightened again in the sequential order to a specification of 18 foot-pounds. Each bolt should then be marked, and each should be tightened an additional quarter turn, following the same sequence.

2006 Through 2011 Models

The head bolts on the 1.6-liter DOHC CVVT engine should be tightened according to the following procedure. There are a total of 10 bolts arranged in pairs across the engine. The bolts should first be tightened in sequence to a specification of 21.7 foot-pounds, starting with the middle two bolts and proceeding in sequence out towards either end of the engine. The bolts should then be loosened again in reverse sequential order, and then tightened again in the sequential order to a specification of 21.7 foot-pounds. Each bolt should then be marked, and each should be tightened an additional quarter turn, following the same sequence.