Fix It

The headlight replacement process for a 2007 Mazda 3 depends entirely on whether or not the specific vehicle has a turbocharger. Although both types use the same HB3 bulbs for the the high beams and H7 bulbs for the low beams, accessing the lights is what differs. As the headlights on any vehicle are important for the safety of the driver and passengers, they should be replaced as soon as they burn out.

Instructions

Accessing the Headlights (without Turbocharger)

1

Turn the ignition switch off and open the hood.

2

Rotate the screws counterclockwise and remove them from the headlamp assembly, using the screwdriver. Remove the cover.

3

Disconnect the electrical cord from the rear of the assembly.

Accessing the Headlights (with Turbocharger)

4

Turn the ignition switch off and open the hood.

5

Remove the plastic clip above the headlamp assembly and pull the slide mount up to a position where it does not interfere with the frame. If replacing the left-side headlight, remove the strap and take out the air filter.

6

Disconnect the electrical cord from the rear of the assembly.

Replacing the High-Beam Bulb

7

Rotate the socket and bulb assembly counterclockwise to remove it.

8

Remove the headlight bulb from the socket by pulling it straight out.

9

Disconnect the bulb from the electrical connector by pressing down on the tab with your finger and pulling the bulb upward.

10

Connect the electrical connector to the new bulb and place it back into the socket and the assembly.

11

Rotate the socket and bulb assembly clockwise to lock it.

Replacing the Low-Beam Bulb

12

Pull the sealing cover off of the headlamp bulb.

13

Unhook the bulb retaining spring and swing it outwards to free the headlight bulb.

14

Pull the bulb straight out and replace it with a new bulb.

15

Swing the spring back into place and reattach the sealing cover.

Fixing the head gaskets on a Subaru 2.5 liter engine is a challenging task. It should only be undertaken if you have considerable experience working on cars and have a full set of automotive tools, both standard and metric. You should always wear safety glasses and gloves for protection. Keep a fire extinguisher in the work area for emergencies, and read through the entire procedure before starting work.

Instructions

1

Relieve the pressure in the fuel system as follows: Remove the fuel filler cap; Disconnect the fuel pump relay; Run the engine until it stops. Be sure to reinstall the relay when you have completed the repairs. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery. Be sure to disengage the security system before disconnecting the battery.

2

Drain the engine coolant into a container and save it for re-use or recycling. Remove the spark plugs, timing belt covers, the timing belt, camshaft sprockets and camshafts. Follow the procedures to mark the components in order to re-install the camshafts properly.

3

Remove the intake and exhaust manifolds (use the penetrating oil to loosen the bolts if necessary) and any other brackets, hoses or components blocking access to the heads.

4

Loosen the head bolts in the reverse order they are installed: Start with the outside bolts in an "X" pattern and loosen the center bolts last. The erence below will indicate the exact sequence. Remove the heads and place a clean towel in each cylinder to prevent contamination.

5

Clean the gasket mating surfaces caully and thoroughly. Install the new gaskets on the head locating lugs and install the heads with the bolts finger tight. Use the torque wrench and angle indicators in the tightening sequence and procedures to complete the installation process. Assemble the other parts in reverse of the order they were removed.

Replacing a car engines head gasket involves a major tear down of the engine. The procedure also calls for precise measurement of metal surfaces, and the technician may have to repair other parts of the engine as well to prevent future head gasket failures.

Scope of Job

While the head gasket itself consists of a single part, preparing the engine for its replacement represents a large-scale operation, according to Repair Pal. The repair technician must remove air intake and exhaust components, and drain the coolant. In some cases, the technician also must remove the timing assembly, valve covers and camshafts.

Precision

Replacement of a head gasket first requires precision measurements using a straightedge, according to AA1 Car. These measurements must indicate variations from flatness as small as 0.002 inches. Resurfacing a head usually requires the help of a machine shop.

Considerations

Head gaskets wear out for a variety of reasons. AA1 Car notes that anyone replacing a head gasket also should inspect the rest of the engine for potential problems and be ready to perform additional, possibly elaborate repairs.

Dodge introduced the Caravan in 1983 and still manufactures the vehicle. This minivan was equipped with a 3.3 liter V6 engine that had an output of 158 brake horsepower, which is pretty impressive for a family car. The V6 engine was designed to have two head gaskets, one on each side of the block. The head gaskets must occasionally be replaced because a blown or a leaking head gasket may cause bad engine performance.

Instructions

1

Drain the cooling system and disconnect the negative battery cable. Remove the intake manifold and throttle body. Disconnect the coil wires, sending unit wire, heater hoses and by-pass hose. Remove the closed ventilation system, evaporation control system and cylinder head covers.

2

Remove the exhaust manifolds. Remove the rocker arm and shaft assemblies. Remove the push rods and identify each one of them to ensure re-installation in the original locations. Remove the nine head bolts from each cylinder head, and remove the cylinder heads.

3

Inspect the surface of the cylinder head. Remove the old head gasket. Before cleaning, check for leaks, damage and cracks. Clean the cylinder head and oil passages. Check the cylinder head for flatness. Inspect all surfaces with a straightedge if you suspect leakage. If out of flatness exceeds 0.00075 inches, either replace the head or lightly machine the head surface.

4

Clean all debris, coolant and dirt from the engine block cylinder head bolt holes. Failure to remove all foreign material may result in improperly tightened fasteners, damaged threads or damage to components. Install the new head gasket. To re-install all parts, follow the same operation in reverse.

The Subaru 2.5L engine is made from aluminum alloy. In order for the heads to properly seal and to prevent warping, a special sequence must be followed when installing the head bolts. Not only is the tightening method critical, so is the order. You will need both inch and foot pound torque wrenches as well as a torque angle gauge.

Clean All Surfaces

Clean the cylinder heads and the block mating surfaces thoroughly with lacquer thinner or acetone. Avoid any scraping tools that could mar the surface.

Position New Parts

Lubricate all bolts and washers with engine oil and place the new gasket on the head locating pins. Position the head on the block and finger tighten all bolts.

The Tightening Sequence

The order for tightening is as follows: top center, bottom center, left top, bottom right, bottom left, top right. Follow this sequence for each step.

Tight but not too Tight

Tighten all bolts to 22 foot-pounds. Tighten all bolts to 51 foot-pounds. This first sequence sets the gasket. Loosen all bolts in reverse order. Loosen them again another 160. Tighten bolts one and two to 25 to 36 foot-pounds. Tighten bolts three, four, five and six to 132 inch-pounds.

Final Procedure

Use the torque angle gauge to tighten all bolts another 90. Follow the sequence again and tighten them another 45. Tighten bolts one and two only an additional 45(turbocharged models only).

The Saturn Ion (manufactured from 2003 to 2007) uses an integrated low beam and high beam headlight per headlight assembly (drivers side and passenger side). The halogen headlight is inserted into the back of each headlight assembly and accessed through the engine compartment. While both low beam and high beam filaments rarely burn out at the same time, the headlight needs to be replaced when one or the other beams fails for optimal night vision.

Instructions

1

Park the Saturn Ion on a level ground surface, apply the parking brake, ensure the headlight switch is in the off position, and release the primary hood release latch from inside the vehicle.

2

Release the secondary hood release latch located underneath the center of the hood in front and lift the hood prop to rest the hood onto the prop.

3

Lift the two headlight assembly retaining brackets located at the back of the headlight assembly with the faulty headlight. The brackets only need to be lift up about an inch to unseat the headlight assembly retaining tabs.

4

Pull the assembly forward away from the Ion to unseat the ball socket headlight aiming guide pins.

5

Place towel under the assembly while resting it on the front bumper to avoid scratching the paint on the bumper.

6

Angle the headlight assembly outward far enough to reach behind it and disconnect the wire harness plugged into the headlight socket. Lift upward on the harness plug tabs and then pull it out of the headlight socket.

7

Turn the headlight retaining ring 1/3 of a turn counterclockwise and then extract the headlight and ring from the back of the headlight assembly. Discard the spent headlight.

8

Put on a pair of latex gloves before handling the replacement bulb. If skin accidentally contacts the glass bulb section of the composite headlight, a heat or weak spot will occur and shorten the life of the headlight.

9

Insert the replacement bulb through the center of the retaining ring and then align the tabs of the ring and headlight to the grooves in the headlight assembly. Turn the ring and socket 1/3 of a turn clockwise to tighten and secure the headlight in place.

10

Reconnect the wire harness plug to the socket of the headlight and test the headlight for proper operation before replacing the headlight assembly and retaining brackets.

The 6.9-liter engine that appears in Ford trucks from 1982 to 1994 has eight cylinders and uses indirect fuel injection. This engine is most common in larger trucks, beginning with the 1/2 ton F250 pickups. The cylinder head in a 6.9-liter Ford engine is a platform that sits on on top of the cylinder block. The procedure for replacing the cylinder head is generally the same for all vehicles with a 6.9-liter Ford engine.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the cables from the negative terminals of both batteries with a socket wrench. Drain the coolant from the radiator into a clean container, and store it for later use. Disconnect the shrouds from the radiator fan. Remove the radiator fan assembly with special tools T83T-6312-A and T83T-6312-B. Turn the mounting nut for the radiator fan clutch clockwise to loosen it.

2

Remove the electrical wiring from the alternator. Disconnect the mounting bolts for the alternator and the vacuum pump with a socket wrench. Remove the alternator and vacuum pump from the vehicle. Detach the hose for the heater from the cylinder head. Disconnect the fuel injection pump from the cover of the intake manifold with a socket wrench, and detach the intake manifold cover.

3

Raise the truck with a floor jack, and support it on jack stands. Remove the exhaust pipes from the exhaust manifolds. Release the clamp on the oil dipstick tube. Disconnect the mounting bolts that attach the oil dipstick tube to the cylinder head, and remove the oil dipstick tube from the vehicle. Lower the truck with the floor jack.

4

Disconnect the valve cover with a socket wrench. Remove the rocker arms and pushrods from the cylinder head. Record the position of each push rod and rocker arm as you remove them to ensure you install them to their original position. Remove the fuel injector nozzles and glow plugs from the engine.

5

Disconnect the mounting bolts for the cylinder head with a socket wrench. Attach lifting eyes to each end of the cylinder head with special tool T70P-6000. Lift the cylinder head with the lifting eyes, and remove it from the engine compartment.

6

Place the new cylinder head onto the engine block, while ensuring the pre-chambers dont fall into the cylinder bores. Coat the mounting bolts for the cylinder head with engine oil. Fasten the mounting bolts for the cylinder head, and tighten them in four separate passes with a socket wrench.

7

Coat the ends of the push rods with engine oil. Install the push rods in the positions you recorded in step four, and ensure the push rods are properly seated. Lubricate the tips of the valve stems with Lubriplate grease. Turn the crankshaft by hand to move its timing mark to the 11 oclock position. Install the rocker arms to their original, and tighten their mounting bolts to 27 foot-pounds with a torque wrench.

8

Replace the valve covers with a socket wrench. Install the intake manifold, and connect the fuel injection pump to the intake manifold. Attach the hose from the heater to the cylinder head. Install the alternator and vacuum pump to the engine, and connect the oil dip stick. Install the exhaust pipe to the exhaust manifolds, and attach the electrical wiring for the alternator. Connect the air cleaner to the engine.

9

Install the radiator clutch assembly with special tools T83T-6312A and T83T-6312B. Attach the cables to the negative battery terminals with a socket wrench. Fill the radiator with coolant, and start the engine. Check for leaks in the exhaust, coolant and fuel systems.

The nuts that hold exhaust heads -- called manifolds -- onto the top end of the engine are prone to rusting and seizing. They are subject to extremely high temperatures, typically are made of a base metal and must be torqued down to extreme tensions to maintain their seals under operation. These reasons contribute to their being the bane of many a mechanics day. That said, a number of tricks can be effective in freeing the exhaust heads.

Safety

Exerting great pressure on long levers and working with naked flames can be hazardous. Wear protective gloves that save your knuckles if the bolt end unexpectedly snaps off, and keep your sleeves away from the heat source.

Patience

When stubborn nuts are encountered, it seldom is advantageous to crank them with increasingly long levers and short tempers in the hope they will give. The likely result is that the nut shatters or the stem of the bolt breaks off inside the manifold or head, creating many other problems. First try tapping the nut, sharply but not with such force that the bolt could bend; this often is sufficient to break the rust bond. If this fails, move on to other options.

Lubrication

The light lubricating oil ubiquitous in the tool kits and garages of the U.S. is not a penetrating oil, and probably is ineffective on a seized manifold nut. Numerous variations on the theme of penetrating oils are available on the market, and to a greater or lesser extent, all have some effect on a locked-up exhaust head bolt. Spraying penetrating oil onto the bolts and leaving them for the time recommended by the oils manufacturer may not work every time, but this easiest solution is worth trying before any more complex and potentially dangerous methods.

Remove as much rust as possible with a brush or scraper, then spray the exposed threads. Wait the advised time, then work both backward and forward with your socket; tightening as well as loosening works the oil into the threads. Frequently reapply the penetrating oil throughout the process. If time permits, spray a little more oil on and try working the socket every day for several days; this often works even if the first attempt did not.

Heat

Naked flame must be used with great care. The oil and fuel in the engine is flammable and explosive, as is the penetrating oil; aluminum cylinder heads can warp in a heartbeat if the heat transfers to them from the iron nut-bolt assembly. Rubber pipes, vacuum hoses and wiring must be protected. Use an oxy-acetylene torch rather than propane; the nut must heat and swiftly expand before the bolt heats and expands sufficiently to break the rust bond. Have an assistant standing close by.

Heat the nut to a cherry red, then pass the torch to your assistant and -- as quickly as possible but not so quickly as to cause an injury -- get the socket on the nut and, as before, exert pressure in both directions. Once the seize is broken, allow the nut to cool to the point where it is no longer glowing, then apply penetrating oil and finish off using that method.

The Mazda MX-5 Miata is a small two-seat roadster that has been in production since 1989. Models made since 2005 use a 2.0-liter engine from the MZR family of engines, which feature an all-aluminum block. The Miata uses a single aluminum cylinder head for all four cylinders that is part of the combustion chambers. The procedure for removing the cylinder head on a Miata is generally the same for all models made since 2005.

Instructions

1

Open the filler cap on the fuel tank to relieve the pressure in the fuel tank. Disconnect the relay for the fuel pump from the engine compartment. Start the engine, and allow the engine to stall. Crank the engine a few times to ensure it wont start, and turn the ignition switch to the lock setting. Replace the fuel pump relay.

2

Disconnect the cables from the battery with a socket wrench, and remove the battery. Disconnect the mounting bolts for the battery tray, and remove the tray. Drain the coolant from the radiator into a clean container, and save the coolant for later use.

3

Remove the tower bar from the front suspension member with a socket wrench. Disconnect the air cleaner and ignition coil from the engine. Turn the drive belt tensioner to relieve the tension on the drive belt, and detach the belt from its pulleys.

4

Detach the crankshaft position sensor from the crankshaft. Disconnect the mounting bolts for the power steering pump with a socket wrench if your vehicle is so equipped. Push the pump out of the way to obtain access to the timing chain, and disconnect the timing chain from its sprockets.

5

Disconnect the arm of the windshield wiper with a socket wrench. Detach the side cowl grille, and remove the cover on the service hole cover to access the camshaft.

6

Detach the alternator with a socket wrench. Push the alternator aside to access the exhaust manifold, and remove the exhaust manifold from the vehicle. Disconnect the overhead camshaft valve sensor, if your Miata has variable valve timing.

7

Record the positions of the camshaft caps to ensure you can install the camshafts in their original positions. Disconnect the camshafts, and remove them from the vehicle.

8

Record the position of each mounting bolt for the cylinder head to make sure you can install them to the correct hole. Remove the mounting bolts in two to three passes with a socket wrench, and detach the cylinder head from the engine block. Measure the length of the bolts and replace any that are longer than 5.77 inches.

The head gasket provides a tight seal between oil, coolant and the engines main cylinders. Regardless what type of car you own, the symptoms of a cracked or damaged head gasket are the same. Although your Ford engine requires both oil and coolant to run effectively, parts of your engine suffer if oil or coolant are allowed entry. If you diagnose the problem early enough, you can stop it before it causes you to have to replace the entire engine.

Blue Smoke

If you see blue smoke coming from your Fords exhaust, you most likely have oil getting through cracks in the head gasket and into the cylinders. As it burns in your engine, the car produces thick, blue smoke.

White Smoke

In a similar fashion, white smoke plumes coming from your Fords exhaust are an indicator that engine coolant is working its way through cracks in the head gasket to the cylinders. As it burns, the coolant produces white smoke.

White Paste in Oil

You should check your oil often using the dipstick. Checking your oil regularly ensures you are familiar with how normal oil looks. If you begin experiencing engine troubles, check your Fords oil to see if there is any foreign substance mixed in with the oil. A white, pasty substance in your cars oil indicates that your cars head gasket is damaged.

Visible Leaks

Check your engine to see if oil or coolant are splashed onto the engine parts. This indicates that they are probably leaking from the cracked head gasket. Large leaks will occur underneath the car when you park it.

Continuous Overheating

If your engine is continuously overheating no matter how much coolant you add to the reservoir, your head gasket may be cracked. Large leaks underneath the car may indicate a problem elsewhere in the cooling system, but you can perform a quick test to see if the more likely culprit is the head gasket. Remove the overflow cap and have a friend rev the engine. If you see air bubbles in the coolant when the engine revs, the problem is with your head gasket.

Rough Engine

If your head gasket is cracked, oil and coolant are able to get into places they should not be. As a result, the engine will start to sound and feel different than it normally does. Other symptoms present more quickly, but a rough-sounding engine will not improve on its own.

Produced by General Motors under the Chevrolet brand, the big block Camaro is considered a muscle car. The V-8 engine options for the 1989 model are powerful yet relatively simple to work on. The head gasket plays a very important role in making your car to run smooth and efficient. It should be replaced every time it fails. If you have basic auto repair knowledge, the process of replacing the head gasket on the Camaro is simple and straightforward.

Instructions

1

Drain the oil from the engine block. Remove the intake manifold and the exhaust manifolds using the socket set. Unscrew the alternator lower mounting bolt and position alternator aside. Make sure you dont damage the harness connector.

2

Take out the dipstick tube and the bracket. If your Camaro is equipped with air conditioning, remove the compressor and forward mounting bracket and set them aside.

3

Remove power steering pump and bracket using the socket set and set them aside. Remove the rocker arm cover, rocker arms and push rods. Keep the rocker arm, rocker arm balls and push rods in order so they can be installed in the same position after you replace the head gasket.

4

Remove the diverter valve, if equipped. Unscrew the cylinder head bolts and take out the cylinder head. Remove the old head gasket. Reinstall the various removed parts in reverse order. Apply suitable sealer to cylinder head bolts and gradually torque the bolts to 69 foot-pounds in three phases.

The Kia Rio is a small, inexpensive car that was first introduced to the U.S. marketplace during the 2001 model year. The 2001 and 2002 model years featured a 1.5-liter DOHC engine, which was upgraded to a more powerful 1.6-liter DOHC engine for model years 2003 through 2005. In 2006 the Rio design was given a significant overhaul, which included a change to a more powerful and refined 1.6-liter DOHC CVVT engine. Each of these Rio engines has a slightly different specification for head bolt torque.

2001 and 2002 Models

The head bolts on the 1.5-liter DOHC engine should be tightened according to the following procedure. There are a total of 10 bolts arranged in pairs across the engine. The bolts should first be tightened in sequence to a specification of 36 foot-pounds, starting with the middle two bolts and proceeding in sequence out towards either end of the engine. The bolts should then be loosened again in reverse sequential order, and then tightened again in the sequential order to a specification of 18 foot-pounds. Each bolt should then be marked, and each should be tightened an additional quarter turn, following the same sequence.

2003 Through 2005 Models

The head bolts on the 1.6-liter DOHC engine should be tightened according to the following procedure. There are a total of 10 bolts arranged in pairs across the engine. The bolts should first be tightened in sequence to a specification of 36 foot-pounds, starting with the middle two bolts and proceeding in sequence out towards either end of the engine. The bolts should then be loosened again in reverse sequential order, and then tightened again in the sequential order to a specification of 18 foot-pounds. Each bolt should then be marked, and each should be tightened an additional quarter turn, following the same sequence.

2006 Through 2011 Models

The head bolts on the 1.6-liter DOHC CVVT engine should be tightened according to the following procedure. There are a total of 10 bolts arranged in pairs across the engine. The bolts should first be tightened in sequence to a specification of 21.7 foot-pounds, starting with the middle two bolts and proceeding in sequence out towards either end of the engine. The bolts should then be loosened again in reverse sequential order, and then tightened again in the sequential order to a specification of 21.7 foot-pounds. Each bolt should then be marked, and each should be tightened an additional quarter turn, following the same sequence.