Fix It

Like any other craftsman, a mechanic must use tools to aid him in getting the job done efficiently and effectively. One such tool often taken for granted is the bottle jack. A bottle jack lifts a heavy vehicle with hydraulics. Without a bottle jack, a mechanics work would often be impeded by the lack of accessibility to a part of a vehicle. Repairing a bottle jack can be expensive. Try fixing it yourself before making the investment in repair or a new purchase.

Instructions

1

Extend the jack arm fully to its maximum height at the jack mount surface.

2

Locate the release valve on the opposite side of your pump. Pull out the piston located within the chamber.

3

Use your flashlight to check the chamber for cracks, oil build-up, dirt and other substances. You should see a small trace amount of oil within the chamber but nothing more. Excessive dirt indicates a bad seal which will require professional repair.

4

Locate the oil reservoir filler cap which is the uppermost cap inside the release valve. Use your screwdriver to pry open the cap if necessary. The hydraulic oil should be 1/4 inch below the opening. Fill the reservoir to the 1/4 inch mark if necessary.

5

Wipe the jack clean with a cloth to detect oil. Pump the jack several times by the handle with the release valve still open. Look for leaking oil.

6

Close the release valve. Pump the jack up to its full height position. If the jack will not rise, bleed the jack by opening the release valve.

7

Attach the jack to your vehicle. Pump the jack to lift the vehicle to see if the jack is now working properly. If the jack will not lift, seek professional repair.

If you notice that your steering wheel is loose and sloppy when you drive down the road, you may have a worn upper ball joint and upper control arm. Unlike the case with lower ball joints, which require specialty tools that are quite expensive, a home mechanic can replace the upper control arm and ball joint in part of an afternoon.

Instructions

1

Loosen the lug nuts on both of the front tires. Do this before attempting to lift the vehicle off the ground or the tire will spin as you try to loosen them.

2

Raise the vehicle off the ground enough to lift the tires off the ground and place jack stands under the vehicle. Finish removing the tires once the vehicle is secure.

3

Remove the cotter pin from the upper ball joint using a needlenose pliers. You do not need to save the cotter pin; you will use a new one for installation.

4

Use the appropriate wrench to remove the castle nut at the top of the ball joint. Turn the wrench counterclockwise to remove the nut from the ball joint.

5

Separate the ball joint from the steering knuckle using a two-jawed puller and remove the upper control arm from the vehicle.

6

Install the new upper control arm assembly into the strut tower and connect the upper ball joint into the steering knuckle.

7

Install the tires onto the front of the vehicle and lower the vehicle to the ground.

8

Torque the nuts on the control arm and front wheels once the car is lowered to the ground. Torque the upper control arm to 47 foot-pounds. Next, tighten the castle nut to 32 foot-pounds and then tighten it enough beyond that point to install the new cotter pin. All of the wheel nuts should be tightened to 80 foot-pounds of pressure.

Blown reverse light bulbs are the most common reason that your 1996 Volkswagen Jettas reverse lights will not illuminate. At its core, however, the reverse light system is controlled by a simple two-wire switch, called a reverse or back-up switch, attached to the transmission. When the switch fails, it will prevent the lights from illuminating at all. Removing and replacing the reverse switch, while outwardly simple, requires removal of the battery box and air box to provide enough clearance for your tools.

Instructions

1

Park the Jetta and set the parking brake. Let the engine cool for at least one hour.

2

Open the hood and support it in an raised position, using the hood support rod.

3

Unclip and remove the battery box cover. Disconnect the cables from the battery, starting with the negative cable followed by the positive cable, using a combination wrench. Remove the battery retaining strap using a ratchet. Lift the fuse box off of the battery, then pull the battery out of the battery box. Unbolt the battery box from the engine compartment using a ratchet.

4

Squeeze the spring clamp attaching the air box to the intake duct using pliers. Move the clamp away from the air box. Unclip and remove the air box cover, then pull the air filter out of the air box. Unbolt the lower half of the air box using a ratchet. Pull the air box out of the intake tube, then lift it out of the engine compartment.

5

Look between the right side of the transmission housing and the inner engine compartment wall, directly below the air box mounting point. The reverse switch is located directly below the upside-down L-shaped shift linkage at the top of the transmission housing. Alternatively, the reverse switch is located on the top right side of the transmission housing, if you are working on a Jetta fitted with an automatic transmission.

6

Unplug the two-pin electrical connector at the rear of the reverse switch. Unscrew the reverse switch from the transmission using an adjustable wrench.

7

Screw the new reverse switch into the transmission housing by hand. Tighten the switch to 15 foot-pounds, using a crow foot wrench and a torque wrench. Plug the electrical connector into the end of the switch.

8

Push the air box into the intake tube, then slide the spring clamp into place. Reinstall the lower air box into the engine compartment, followed by the air filter and air box cover.

9

Reinstall the battery box and battery. Place the fuse box over the top of the battery, then reattach the battery cables, starting with the positive cable followed by the negative cable. Tighten the battery terminal bolts using a combination wrench.

10

Reattach the battery box lid and close the Jettas hood.

Fixing the head gaskets on a Subaru 2.5 liter engine is a challenging task. It should only be undertaken if you have considerable experience working on cars and have a full set of automotive tools, both standard and metric. You should always wear safety glasses and gloves for protection. Keep a fire extinguisher in the work area for emergencies, and read through the entire procedure before starting work.

Instructions

1

Relieve the pressure in the fuel system as follows: Remove the fuel filler cap; Disconnect the fuel pump relay; Run the engine until it stops. Be sure to reinstall the relay when you have completed the repairs. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery. Be sure to disengage the security system before disconnecting the battery.

2

Drain the engine coolant into a container and save it for re-use or recycling. Remove the spark plugs, timing belt covers, the timing belt, camshaft sprockets and camshafts. Follow the procedures to mark the components in order to re-install the camshafts properly.

3

Remove the intake and exhaust manifolds (use the penetrating oil to loosen the bolts if necessary) and any other brackets, hoses or components blocking access to the heads.

4

Loosen the head bolts in the reverse order they are installed: Start with the outside bolts in an "X" pattern and loosen the center bolts last. The erence below will indicate the exact sequence. Remove the heads and place a clean towel in each cylinder to prevent contamination.

5

Clean the gasket mating surfaces caully and thoroughly. Install the new gaskets on the head locating lugs and install the heads with the bolts finger tight. Use the torque wrench and angle indicators in the tightening sequence and procedures to complete the installation process. Assemble the other parts in reverse of the order they were removed.

The 1997 Isuzu Trooper was available in three trim levels: S, LS and Limited. All three were equipped with a 3.2-liter V-6 engine that produced 190-horsepower and 195 foot-pounds of torque. The 1997 Isuzu Trooper engine utilizes three different belts to propel the belt driven engine parts. The tension on the belt is controlled by the swivel mounting bracket on the power steering pump. Adjusting the power steering pump will tighten the serpentine belt.

Instructions

Power Steering Belt Adjustment

1

Open the hood on the Trooper and set the hood prop. Position your body near the power steering pump, in the front of the engine compartment.

2

Loosen the power steering pump swivel mounting bolt on the bottom of the pump using a ratchet and socket. Loosen the power steering pump adjuster bolt on the adjuster plate. Push the power steering pump upward using a small pry bar between the pump housing and the engine block if needed. Tighten the adjuster bolt while maintaining pressure upward on the pump.

3

Tighten the adjuster bolt to 34 foot-pounds using a 1/2-inch-drive torque wrench and socket. Tighten the bottom pump swivel mounting bolt to 34 foot-pounds.

4

Step to the drivers side of the truck and start the engine. Press the gas pedal slightly to increase the engine rpm. If the belt still makes a noise, inspect the belt tensioner plate. If the adjuster bolt is at the limit of its adjustment and you still have a belt squeal, the belt needs to be replaced. If the belt noise still exists and you have room for more adjustment, tighten the belt by repeating steps 2 and 3, until the belt squeal goes away.

Alternator Belt Adjustment

5

Loosen the fixing bolt and the lock bolt on the alternator using a ratchet and socket.

6

Rotate the adjuster bolt in the side of the adjuster to add tension to the alternator belt. Tighten the fixing bolt to 16 foot-pounds and the lock bolt to 17 foot-pounds, using a 1/2-inch-drive torque wrench and socket.

7

Proceed to the drivers side of the Trooper and start the engine. If the alternator belt still produces a squealing noise and the adjuster is set at its maximum adjustment, the belt needs to be replaced. If the belt makes a noise and there is more room for adjustment, readjust the belt using steps 1 and 2.

Air Conditioning Compressor Belt Adjustment

8

Loosen the lock bolt on the tensioner assembly. Rotate the adjuster bolt to tighten the tension on the A/C compressor belt.

9

Tighten the lock bolt to 37 foot-pounds with a 1/2-inch-drive torque wrench and socket.

10

Proceed to the drivers side of the Trooper and start the engine. If the air conditioning belt makes a squealing noise, shut the engine off and readjust the belt tighter using steps 1 and 2. If the tensioner is set to its maximum outward position, the belt needs to be replaced.

An EGR valve is a factory sealed unit, so it cannot be re-manufactured, but the problems associated with a failing EGR valve can be solved by replacing the unit. The EGR valve (exhaust gas recirculation valve) is usually found near the exhaust manifold but can also be found elsewhere on transverse engines. The purpose of an EGR valve is to burn exhaust gases a second time to aid in emissions and help fuel economy. When defective, an EGR valve causes poor acceleration and rough idle. A defective EGR valve often makes a flutter noise.

Instructions

1

Locate the EGR valve. A schematic of the car engine is a great help in locating the EGR valve.The EGR valve looks like a small round can with a small hat on top. A digital EGR valve will have a wire loom connected to it; a manual EGR valve will have vacuum lines connected to it. The base plate of the EGR valve, which is on the intake manifold, is connected to a small metal tube that runs to the exhaust manifold. The EGR valve is easiest to locate by tracing all lines, other than the exhaust pipes that connect to the exhaust manifold. The EGR valve may also may be connected to the EGR solinoid.

2

Remove all parts that obstruct access to the two EGR base plate bolts. Unplug the metal tubes, any vacuum lines and electric connections to the EGR valve.

3

Remove the bolts that hold the EGR valve to the base plate. These bolts are usually 1/2 inch or 12 mm.

4

Install a new factory-sealed EGR gasket. Replace the valve gasket, using gasket sealer prior to re-installation. Torque the bolts to manufacturers specs (approximately 11 to 16 foot pounds).

5

Working in reverse, reconnect all tubes, lines and electrical connections. Replace all other items that were removed to reach the EGR valve.

Plastic is a very commonplace material used for just about everything. Because so much is made out of plastic, several companies have built their empire by providing various methods for repairing it. The most important element in plastic oil tank repair is to know exactly what kind of plastic your oil tank is made of. This allows you to purchase the proper patching materials. There are multiple ways of repairing your plastic oil tank, which method you select depends mostly on how much you care about appearance versus ease of use.

Instructions

1

Repair your plastic oil tank with a plastic repair kit. Plastic repair kits are available at any hardware store and are relatively inexpensive. These kits contain epoxy, fiberglass cloth, application brush and sandpaper. Simply sand down the crack or hole, cover it with the fiberglass cloth, prepare the epoxy and brush it over the fiberglass to create a patch. These patches appear rough at first, but you can sand them down for a more aesthetically pleasing finish once the epoxy has set. Additionally, you can paint the patch to match the rest of the tank. Plastic repair kits are great if youre not too bothered with a rough finish.

2

Repair your plastic oil tank with a plastic sealing tape. Sealing tapes are available at any hardware store and are great for an easy fix for smaller cracks and holes. Sealing tapes adhere well to any plastic type and can maintain seal in temperatures as low as -40 degrees to 180 degrees Fahrenheit. Simply apply the sealing tape over the small hole or crack to solve your problem. Note: sealing tape gets the job done, but you may have to replace it from time to time. Sealing tape is perfect for a person thats looking for a quick and easy fix to a small problem.

3

Repair your plastic oil tank with a speed tip plastic welder. Speed tip welding is a technique that heats up a plastic rod while pushing a soft bead of plastic out of the tip, similar to soldering. Although speed tip welding offers the most precise plastic repair, it is also the most challenging and expensive plastic repair method. Speed tip welding is also the best method for repairing a crack or a hole in a hard to repair area such as a corner. Speed tip welding is perfect for hobbyists and professionals who really value the aesthetic appearance of the repair work.

The Acura 3.5 RL, also known as the Acura Legend, is a mid-level luxury car manufactured by Honda from 1996 to 2004. It had a six-cylinder 3.5-liter engine with multi-port fuel injection. This type of fuel injection requires the fuel pump to deliver highly pressurized fuel to the fuel injectors. The fuel pump in the Acura 3.5 RL is on top of the fuel tank and is accessible from the rear seat of the vehicle.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the negative battery cable with a socket wrench to prevent sparking. Open the filler cap for the fuel tank to relieve the pressure in the fuel tank.

2

Wrap a shop towel around the banjo bolt on top of the fuel filter. Hold the fuel filter with an open-end wrench. Loosen the banjo bolt slowly by one complete turn with a box-end wrench to relieve the pressure in the fuel system. Tighten the banjo bolt to its original position with the box-end wrench.

3

Remove the rear seat cushion and open the access panel on the floor of the passenger compartment. Disconnect the electrical connector from the fuel pump.

4

Remove the mounting nuts for the fuel pump with a socket wrench. Lift the fuel pump from the fuel tank.

5

Place the new fuel pump into the fuel tank and fasten the mounting bolts with a socket wrench. Attach the electrical connector for the fuel pump. Close the access panel and replace the rear seat cushion. Reconnect the negative battery cable.

It is important to keep your vehicles brake lights functioning well. Brake lights serve as a guide to the driver behind you to brake when you are slowing your car down. Malfunctioning brake lights could cause accidents on the road. Fixing the car brake lights usually involves changing the malfunctioning light bulb.

Instructions

1

Park your vehicle and turn off the ignition. Open the vehicles trunk and access the brake light assembly and remove the red and yellow plastic cover of the brake lights by unscrewing it using the Phillips-head screwdriver in order to access the light bulb. Set aside the screws as it will be needed later on.

2

Locate the brake light bulb. It is usually the center bulb of three bulbs located in the area. Unscrew the brake light bulb by pushing it slightly and turning it counterclockwise at the same time. Set it aside.

3

Clean the area where you removed the bulb with a dry rag. You can also use a steel brush if there is accumulated dirt on the socket. The accumulated dirt can sometimes be the cause of the malfunctioning brake light.

4

Install a new light bulb on the socket by pushing it slightly and twisting it in a clockwise direction. Make sure the bulb is aligned well and screwed in evenly.

5

Check the light bulb to ensure it works by turning on the car and asking someone to push on the brake pedal while you go to the back of the vehicle to see if it lights up.

6

Reattach the plastic cover by inserting the screws in the designated holes and tightening the screws, turning clockwise, using the Phillips-head screwdriver. Put back the brake light assembly at the back of the vehicles trunk.

7

Remove the brake light cover on the vehicles other side and follow steps 2 to 6 to replace the light bulb.

There are different reasons why your car might be shaking when you drive. One of the reasons for a bad ride is flat spots on your tires. Flat spots can be caused by locking up your brakes or by your car or truck being parked for a long period of time in one place. There are two ways to correct flat spots on your tires, depending on the cause.

Instructions

1

Fill each tire to the maximum level as noted on the sidewall of the tire, using the air compressor. Check to make sure the pressure is correct using the tire gauge.

2

Drive the vehicle for at least 150 miles. If the flat spots were due to the vehicle being parked for a long time, this should solve the problem.

3

Release air from the tires to bring the tire pressure back within the normal range, as noted in the vehicles owners manual and on the drivers door information plaque. Do this by inserting a valve core tool into the tire stem.

4

Take the vehicle to a tire shop. Most dedicated tire shops have tire shaving machines that will shave the tires tread until the flat spot is gone. This is the only solution for a flat spot caused by a long skid.

Depending on the climate where it is driven, your Toyotas frame may have rust damage. If caught early enough, preventative measures can slow the rusts progress and delay the need for extensive repairs. If the rust damage is significant, it can lead to failures in suspension and steering components, causing the vehicle to be unsafe. It is critical to inspect the frame carefully to determine the extent of repairs needed. This typically requires old sections of the frame to be reinforced with new pieces of metal. If the amount of rust damage is severe, the best choice may be to completely replace the section of frame, taking care to reinforce the joint. If you are not comfortable using a MIG welder, this repair is best left to a professional. But if you have the necessary skill and safety equipment for MIG welding, you can accomplish the job.

Instructions

Remove Old Rust

1

Spread the naval jelly on any rusted parts of the frame. Wait 5 to 10 minutes. Rinse with fresh water. Take care not to let the naval jelly remain on painted surfaces as it will remove the paint.

2

Assess the severity of the damage. Coat the area in rust-inhibiting paint if the rust has not gone completely through the frame metal and is not at any bolts or welded joints on the frame.

3

Check the repair regularly. This process may need to be repeated periodically to prevent the rust from returning or spreading.

Welding Reinforcements

4

Determine the appropriate repair --- welding a piece of angle bar to the existing frame metal or cutting the frame metal and replacing it completely. If the frame is compromised in many locations, replacing the entire section is likely preferable. Frame sections can be sourced from a Toyota dealership, or an auto dismantler may be able to locate a used one in good condition for less cost. Alternatively, hire a professional welder to fabricate a new frame section using the old one as a template if the vehicle sees heavy use, such as pickup truck.

5

Measure the section of frame to be reinforced and use the grinder to cut a length of angle bar. Add 3 to 4 inches on either side of the bar to overlap the frame. For example, if a 2-inch section of frame has rusted through, the reinforcement should be 8 to 12 inches long. Features of the frame may dictate variations to this, but it is better to overlap as much undamaged metal as possible.

6

Clamp the section of angle bar to the frame where it will be welded and mark any bolt holes or other features. If the reinforcement is in the area of a welded seam, it may be necessary to cut off the welded metal (such as a shackle) and reweld it to the reinforcement. Measure the location of the component carefully to ensure it goes back in the same place. It may also be necessary to trim the reinforcement to fit around features of the frame that to not need reinforcement.

7

Remove the clamps and drill the necessary holes in the reinforcement angle bar. Use the grinder to trim off any metal necessary for a good fit. Test-fit the reinforcement again to ensure the holes are placed properly and the piece fits flush against the existing metal frame. Use the wire brush wheel on the grinder to clean up the metal surface on the frame in preparation for welding.

8

Weld the reinforcement in place using the MIG welder. Reweld any other components such as suspension shackles. Paint the repaired area with rust-inhibiting paint and follow the above directions for periodically inspecting and refreshing the paint. Repeat this process for any other areas that need repair.

The exhaust system on your Ford F150 consists of the exhaust manifold, exhaust pipe, catalytic converter, muffler and tail pipe. With the exception of the tailpipe, all of these components are sealed together with gaskets. A leak in any of the gaskets will allow exhaust gases to escape from the system. Because the exhaust gases are no longer completely travelling through the muffler, they are no longer quieted or "muffled." This results in a louder exhaust note.

Instructions

1

Raise the hood of your F150 and start the engine. Locate the source of the exhaust leak by listening along the exhaust system. Do not use your hands to feel for the leak, as this will burn you.

2

Turn the vehicle off and allow the engine and exhaust to cool before working on it.

3

Return to the area of the exhaust leak. The most common area for an exhaust leak is where the exhaust manifold meets the exhaust pipe. If this is where the leak is, remove the bolts from the pipe mounting flange, by turning them counterclockwise with the socket. Install the new gasket, which is referred to as a "doughnut" because of its shape, and tighten the flange bolts by turning them clockwise.

4

Inspect the area where the exhaust manifold bolts onto the engine. If the leak is here, try to tighten the manifold bolts by turning them clockwise with the socket. This will often seal the leak. If this does not work, remove the manifold bolts by turning them counterclockwise with the socket. Pull the exhaust manifold from the engine and remove the mounting gasket. Use the gasket scraper to remove any gasket residue. Put the new gasket into place and tighten the manifold bolts, by turning them clockwise with the socket.

5

Inspect the catalytic converter flange and the muffler attachment for leaks. If any are found, remove the mounting bolts by turning them counterclockwise with the socket. Install the new gasket and tighten the mounting bolts by turning them clockwise with the socket.

Installing catalytic converters on vehicles does a great service to the environment, as they are responsible for cleaning the pollution that comes from your vehicles combustion engine. Reducing auto emissions takes place when a catalytic converter is working properly, while damaged converters may require cheap fixes or replacement.

Fix vs. Replace

Simply replacing a catalytic converter is often just a temporary fix. When a converter goes bad, other things are often to blame such as bad spark plugs. If these go unfixed, a new converter will go bad due to these underlying issues.

Sensor Fix

Damaging the oxygen sensor results when silicone is allowed to come into contact with a catalytic converter. A smoking exhaust pipe letting out white fumes is a sign that this is occurring. You can fix this problem cheaply by sealing the source of entry for the silicone, which is often through a leak in the head gasket. Products are available that you can pour into the radiator to seal the leak.

Phosphorus Fix

Failing an emissions test will likely result from heavy phosphorus contamination to your catalytic converter. Smoking blue fumes coming from your exhaust pipe will often indicate if this is indeed happening. You can fix or contain this issue by switching to an "SJ"-type motor oil as opposed to the "SH"-rated type, which contains higher levels of phosphorus.

The process of fixing a 1967 Camaro horn is similar to replacing horns in other makes and models. The key to this process is locating the part that creates produces the sound, which is found under the hood near the car battery. After buying a replacement, the installation of the new horn is simple and will take only a short amount of time.

Instructions

1

Find the metal piece shaped like a disc underneath your hood. This part is held into place by screws just behind the grille of the car.

2

Remove the screws holding the part into place by using your screwdriver. Remove the power wire plugged into the horn.

3

Pull the horn from the Camaro.

4

Take the replacement part and set it into place. Tighten it securely with the screws you previously removed. Plug the power wires into the horn. Test it out by pushing the horn button on the steering wheel. When you hear a sound the installation is complete.