Showing posts with label 1998. Show all posts
Showing posts with label 1998. Show all posts

Friday, June 6, 2014

How to Locate a Crank Sensor on a 1998 Dodge Pickup

How to Locate a Crank Sensor on a 1998 Dodge Pickup

The 1998 Dodge pickup uses a crank sensor to feed detailed information to the power train control module to indicate the current position of the crankshaft as it rotates, as well as the crankshafts revolutions per minute (rpm). The crankshaft position sensors data determines when to fire the fuel injectors. On gasoline engines, it also determines when to fire the ignition coil to light the fuel-air mixture. Intermittent problems with the crankshaft position sensor cause hesitations and stalling of the vehicle. A continuous error with the crank sensor will prevent the vehicle from starting. Testing the crankshaft position sensor requires access to the sensor and plug.

Instructions

Gasoline Engines

    1

    Set the parking brake of the 1998 Dodge pickup truck. Pull the hood release handle. Open the hood.

    2

    Disconnect the negative battery cable. Loosen the 10 mm retaining nut on the battery cable clamp using a 10 mm wrench. Pry the battery cable off the negative battery post by twisting side to side by hand. The negative battery post has a "-" label next to it.

    3

    Stand on the passenger side of the truck. Place the work light next to the exhaust manifold as close as possible to the firewall.

    4

    Lean over the fender. Extend the telescoping inspection mirror in between the back of the cylinder head and the firewall.

    5

    Angle the mirror to inspect the edge of the transmission bell housing where it meets the engine block. A steel bracket secured by two 10 mm bolts with a three-wire harness retains the crankshaft position sensor, which reads gaps in a ring of the flywheel.

Diesel Engines

    6

    Open the hood of the 1998 Dodge pickup, and disconnect the negative battery cable using a 10 mm wrench.

    7

    Lie down face up on an automotive creeper, and slide under the drivers side of the vehicle just behind the tire, taking the wrench and the trouble light with you.

    8

    Hang an automotive trouble light underneath the vehicle.

    9

    Remove the three 10 mm bolts retaining the starter to the transmission bell housing using a 10 mm wrench. Remove the starter.

    10

    Look directly between the engine block and the location from which you removed the starter. The crankshaft position sensor is a black plastic sensor with an aluminum retaining bracket held in place by a single 10 mm bolt. The crank sensor has a three-wire harness plugged into it.

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Wednesday, May 21, 2014

How to Fix Ball Joints in a 1998 Honda Accord

If you notice that your steering wheel is loose and sloppy when you drive down the road, you may have a worn upper ball joint and upper control arm. Unlike the case with lower ball joints, which require specialty tools that are quite expensive, a home mechanic can replace the upper control arm and ball joint in part of an afternoon.

Instructions

    1

    Loosen the lug nuts on both of the front tires. Do this before attempting to lift the vehicle off the ground or the tire will spin as you try to loosen them.

    2

    Raise the vehicle off the ground enough to lift the tires off the ground and place jack stands under the vehicle. Finish removing the tires once the vehicle is secure.

    3

    Remove the cotter pin from the upper ball joint using a needlenose pliers. You do not need to save the cotter pin; you will use a new one for installation.

    4

    Use the appropriate wrench to remove the castle nut at the top of the ball joint. Turn the wrench counterclockwise to remove the nut from the ball joint.

    5

    Separate the ball joint from the steering knuckle using a two-jawed puller and remove the upper control arm from the vehicle.

    6

    Install the new upper control arm assembly into the strut tower and connect the upper ball joint into the steering knuckle.

    7

    Install the tires onto the front of the vehicle and lower the vehicle to the ground.

    8

    Torque the nuts on the control arm and front wheels once the car is lowered to the ground. Torque the upper control arm to 47 foot-pounds. Next, tighten the castle nut to 32 foot-pounds and then tighten it enough beyond that point to install the new cotter pin. All of the wheel nuts should be tightened to 80 foot-pounds of pressure.

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Saturday, May 3, 2014

How to Remove the Original Factory Stereo in a 1998 Buick Regal

The original factory stereo in a 1998 Buick Regal was available with two different options; an in-stereo tape player or an in-stereo compact disc player. Regardless of the option choice, the removal method is the same. Despite the excellent reliability of Buick factory radios, they do fail occasionally; leaving the driver and passenger with an eerily-silent interior. Replacement factory stereos are available in used condition from most salvage yards for a nominal fee or new from Buick dealerships for a much higher price.

Instructions

Removal

    1

    Open the drivers side door and remove the left instrument panel insulator by prying it free with a flat-head screwdriver.

    2

    Press the tilt lever on the steering column and adjust the steering wheel as far down as it will travel.

    3

    Remove the retaining screws on the lower leading edge of the ash tray panel cover. Pull the cover forward to disengage the retaining clips. Disconnect the ash tray lights electrical connector and remove the lower ash tray trim panel.

    4

    Open the passenger door. Disengage the instrument panel trim plates retaining tabs inside the air vents using a flat-head screw driver. Pry around the circumference of the instrument panel trim plate with a flat-head screwdriver until all of the retainers are disengaged. Pull the instrument panel trim plate away from the dashboard and set it aside.

    5

    Remove the screws holding the radio in place using a ratchet and metric socket. Pull the radio out and unplug the black antenna cable from the back of the radio. Disconnect the radios electrical connector and remove the radio from the vehicle.

Installation

    6

    Reconnect the radios antenna cable and electrical connector. Set the radio into position and reinstall the radio retaining bolts. Torque the bolts to 18 inch-pounds with a torque wrench.

    7

    Set the instrument panel trim plate into position and press down on it from left to right in order to seat the retaining clips. When the panel is properly seated there should be no large gaps between the panel and upper dash pad or radio face.

    8

    Reconnect the lower ash tray cover panel to the ash tray lights electrical connector. Set the panel into place and press down on it until the integrated locking tabs are fully-seated. Reinstall the lower ash tray panel retaining screws and torque them to 18 inch-pounds with a torque wrench.

    9

    Tilt the steering wheel back to a normal position. Reinstall the left instrument panel insulator. Turn on the ignition and test the radio.

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Friday, April 18, 2014

How to Replace Windshield Washer Pump on 1998 Pontiac Grand Prix

How to Replace Windshield Washer Pump on 1998 Pontiac Grand Prix

Replacing the washer fluid pump in a 1998 Pontiac Grand Prix can help increase visibility through your windshield. The process of replacing the pump should take no more than a half-hour, and you can purchase the tools and materials your need at an auto parts store.

Instructions

    1

    Open the hood. Remove the washer fluid tank bolts with a 3/8-inch drive ratchet and socket.

    2

    Pull the entire washer bottle assembly out from under the hood. Detach the hoses from the bottle. Do this gently, so as not to stretch or rip the lines.

    3

    Remove the old washer fluid pump by pulling it upward toward the top of the washer fluid bottle. The pump is locked in place by the washer fluid bottle itself.

    4

    Install the new washer fluid pump onto the bottle.

    5

    Reinstall the washer fluid bottle hoses. Reattach the washer fluid reservoir to the vehicle.

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Thursday, February 20, 2014

How to Remove a Catalytic Converter on a 1998 Chevy Truck

A catalytic converter is an important part of the emissions system in your vehicle, but its also a consumable product. Eventually, it will wear out and break, and when it does, it has to be replaced by a new unit. Thats because its illegal in most states to sell used emissions equipment. Its also not easy to replace, as it requires welding into the exhaust system. Removing a catalytic converter from a 1998 Chevrolet Silverado, however, is as easy as cutting the exhaust.

Instructions

    1

    Raise the vehicle with the jack, and secure it on jack stands. Double-check that the vehicle is secure before you crawl underneath it. Make sure there is enough room for you to fit underneath the truck while using the reciprocating saw. Put on the eye protection and hearing protection.

    2

    Locate the catalytic converter on the exhaust. Its shaped like a rectangle with rounded corners and has a flat flange down the sides. Cut the exhaust tubing about 2 inches forward of the catalytic converter, using the reciprocating saw with the metal blade.

    3

    Cut the exhaust tubing about 2 inches behind the catalytic converter, using the reciprocating saw with the metal blade. Then spray the penetrating fluid in the exhaust hanger attached to the catalytic converter, and use the 24-inch pry bar to remove the hanger and, with it, the catalytic converter.

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Wednesday, December 18, 2013

Removing a Catalytic Converter on a 1998 Blazer

If the catalytic converter on your 1998 Chevy Blazer is defective or has damage to the case, replacing it may be necessary. The converter is located under the front cross member, in the area underneath the drivers seat. It uses flanges on both ends to secure it to the rest of the exhaust and houses one of the oxygen sensors in the body of the converter.

Instructions

    1

    Raise the front of your Blazer with a jack and position a set of jack stands under the front suspension to support the truck while you work under it. Lower the jack and remove it from under the truck.

    2

    Position yourself under the passengers side of the Blazer and locate the catalytic converter in the exhaust system. Find the O2 sensor on the drivers side of the case and follow the wires from the top of the sensor to the wiring harness connector.

    3

    Release the locking tab on the wiring harness connection, then separate the two halves of the connector. Place an O2 sensor socket on the sensor body and turn it counterclockwise with a ratchet. Remove the sensor and set it aside for reuse later.

    4

    Move to the rear of the converter and remove the bolts from the mounting flange with a socket and ratchet. Pull the exhaust pipe loose from the converter and push it off to one side.

    5

    Locate the flange at the front of the catalytic converter. Remove the mounting bolts with a socket and ratchet, then separate the converter from the exhaust pipe.

    6

    Locate the rubber isolator that supports the converter; slide it off the mounting pin on the frame, then lower the converter down and out of the exhaust system. Slide the catalytic converter out from under the truck.

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How to Install Rancho 5000 Series Shocks on a 1998 Toyota Pickup

Rancho Suspension makes a wide variety of different types of shock absorbers, including a model called the Rancho 5000. These shocks are designed for light trucks and SUVs, like the 1998 Toyota pickup. If you own a 1998 Toyota pickup and your rear shocks are worn out, you can replace them with a set of Rancho 5000 shocks. This takes just under an hour to do with a few tools.

Instructions

    1

    Put a set of wheel chocks around the Toyotas front wheels. Put the jack under the rear axle, and lift up the axle and rear end of the truck until the wheels are off of the ground. Put jack stands underneath the axle, and remove the jack.

    2

    Remove the bolt and washer connecting the shocks to the axle with an open-end wrench. Remove the bolt and washer connecting the shocks to the frame with an open-end wrench. Slide the shock off of the mounting studs on the frame and the axle with your hands.

    3

    Slide the Rancho 5000 shocks onto the mounting studs on the frame and axle. Install the bolt and washer on the top of the shock with an open-end wrench. Install the bolt and washer to the bottom of the shock with an open-end wrench.

    4

    Pick up the axle with the jack and take out the rear jack stands. Lower the jack so the rear wheels are on the ground. Remove the wheel chocks.

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Thursday, November 28, 2013

How Do I Replace the Muffler on a 1998 Dodge 3500 Diesel

The muffler on the 1998 Dodge 3500 Diesel is the main component that prevents the diesel engine running too loud. The exhaust pipe that is attached to the exhaust manifold on the front of the engine travels under the truck and into the muffler. As the sound of the engine travels through the muffler, the baffles inside of the muffler cause the sound to exit in a quieter manner. Over time, the excessive heat that travels through the muffler, will cause the inside of the muffler to rust and not perform properly.

Instructions

    1

    Park your 1998 Dodge 3500 Diesel on a flat surface and engage the parking brake. Wait one to two hours for the muffler and the exhaust system to cool down.

    2

    Slide under the rear of the truck and locate the front of the muffler. The exhaust pipe that travels from the engine is mounted to the front muffler port by a metal clamp with two mounting bolts.

    3

    Saturate the two mounting bolts completely with the rust inhibitor spray or the penetrating oil. Position a socket and a breaker bar onto one of the mounting bolts. Slowly turn the bolt counterclockwise to see how tight the bolt is fastened. If the bolt is still tight, spray more of the rust inhibitor or the penetrating oil on the mounting bolts and repeat the process with the breaker bar and socket until the bolt is loose. Follow the same step with the other mounting bolt. Once the bolts are loose, use a ratchet to finish unscrewing the bolts.

    4

    Finish loosening and removing the two mounting bolts from the clamp with a ratchet and a socket. Pull the mounting bolts out of the clamp and knock the clamp off of the muffler port with a hammer.

    5

    Slide the end of a flathead screwdriver into the end of the muffler. Pry the end of the muffler port upward off the exhaust pipe. Make sure the entire front muffler port is pried up off of the exhaust pipe. Try and pull the muffler loose from the exhaust pipe. If the muffler is still stuck, use the hammer to tap the front of the muffler loose from the exhaust pipe.

    6

    Pull the muffler off the rubber hanger that holds the muffler in place. Slide the muffler out from under the truck. Position the new muffler under the truck and into the rubber hanger.

    7

    Slide the front port of the muffler over the exhaust pipe. Reconnect the clamp over the exhaust clamp and the muffler with the two mounting bolts. Tighten the bolts down tight with the ratchet and socket. Finish torquing the mounting bolts with the breaker bar and a socket.

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Tuesday, November 19, 2013

How to Reset a Computer for a 1998 Dodge Caravan

When one of the sensors on the 1998 Dodge Caravan stops working or senses incorrect information, the computer sends a code to the data link connector and turns the check engine light on to alert the driver that there is a problem. You can extract the codes with a code scanner, which is available at any auto parts store. The code scanner comes with a code sheet that tells the consumer what each code means.

Instructions

    1

    Repair the problem as dictated by the code scanner. If you try to erase the codes and reset the computer before the problem is fixed, the computer will send the code and turn the engine light on again.

    2

    Plug the code scanner into the data link connector, which is under the dash and just to the left of the steering column.

    3

    Press the "Erase" button on the code scanner to erase the codes and reset the computer. Remove the code scanner plug-in from the data link connector.

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Monday, November 18, 2013

How to Replace an Oxygen Sensor in a 1998 Acccord

The oxygen sensors in your 1998 Honda Accord help regulate the fuel consumption of your car. When an oxygen sensor fails, your car begins to burn too much fuel and you gas mileage declines dramatically. The 1998 Accord contains two oxygen sensors located in the exhaust pipe on either end of the catalytic converter. It is best to replace both together to avoid having another one fail immediately after the first replacement. Buy replacement sensors from an auto parts retailer or Honda dealer.

Instructions

    1

    Raise your 1998 Honda Accord with a jack and secure it on a set of jack stands. Position the car high enough to work comfortably beneath it.

    2

    Locate the oxygen sensor you want to change. Disconnect the electrical connection at the top of the sensor. Squeeze the retaining clip and pull the wiring connector straight off the sensor.

    3

    Remove the oxygen sensor from the exhaust pipe using an oxygen sensor socket and ratchet. Insert the new oxygen sensor by hand to prevent cross threading the new sensor. Torque the sensor to 33 ft.-lbs. with your torque wrench.

    4

    Reconnect the wiring harness on the new oxygen sensor. Press the electrical connection straight onto the new sensor until it clicks.

    5

    Repeat the process on the other sensor if needed. Raise the car with the jack and remove the jack stands. Lower the car to the ground.

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