Fix It

Removal of the shifter boot in your Dodge Ram truck allows you to access the four bolts on top of the transmission retaining the shifter assembly to the transmission. The rubber boot may crack over time and require replacement as well. If this is the case, you can get a replacement from the dealer or through a salvage yard. If you remove the shifter boot and intend to reuse it, use care so you do not rip it as you pull it off the shifter shaft.

Instructions

1

Sit in the seat of your Dodge, sliding it all the way back to expose the shifter boot on the floor of the truck. Locate the metal ring on the floor surrounding the shifter boot.

2

Grasp the shifter knob on top of the shifter assembly, turn it counterclockwise to loosen it and remove it from the shifter shaft. Set the knob aside in a safe spot so you can put it back later.

3

Locate the screws in the metal ring on the floor around the shifter boot. Remove the screws with a Phillips screwdriver, and set them aside.

4

Lift the ring, and pull the boot up the shaft. Pull the entire boot assembly off the top of the shifter shaft as a unit.

Replacing the fuel/water separator on the 2.8-liter diesel engine in your Jeep Liberty is not something that you need to do regularly, but when the time comes, a new separator assembly is available from the Jeep dealer. The fuel/water separator is important, as it works to remove moisture and sediment from the diesel fuel before it enters the fuel rails and engine. Water can damage the engine and cause it to run poorly or not at all.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the negative cable from the battery, using a wrench to remove the retaining bolt. Isolate the negative cable from the battery while you work.

2

Locate the fuel/water separator on the firewall of your Liberty. It is to the left of the engine, directly in front of the driver. Locate the two electrical connections on the front of the separator. Depress the locking tab on the connectors and remove them from the separator body. Lay the wiring connections aside.

3

Remove the hose clamp on the large fuel line at the front of the separator using a flat-head screwdriver. Pull the hose off the fitting and push it aside. Locate the second fuel line on the passengers side of the separator. Remove the hose clamp from the line with a flat-head screwdriver and pull it off the fitting.

4

Remove the two bolts that secure the separator to the firewall of the Jeep, using a socket and ratchet. Pull the assembly off the firewall. Position the new separator on the firewall and install the retaining bolts. Tighten the bolts to 63 in.-lbs. with a torque wrench.

5

Connect both fuel lines to the fittings on the new separator. Attach the hose clamps and tighten them with a flat-head screwdriver. Do not overtighten them or you will damage the rubber hose and it will fail prematurely.

6

Attach the wiring harness connectors to the front of the assembly. They are different so you cannot plug them in wrong. Push the connectors in until they snap into place.

7

Reconnect the negative cable to the battery. Reattach the retaining bolt and tighten it with a wrench.

A faulty drain cock or petcock on a 2007 Jeep Liberty could result in a radiator leak, an overheated engine and costly repairs. The petcock is a small valve located on the lower left side of the radiator. The petcock threads into the face of the radiator tank and replacing it is a fairly simple task that requires few tools. Make sure to drain the radiator before you remove the petcock to avoid spilling coolant.

Instructions

1

Open the hood of your Jeep and remove the radiator cap from the radiator. Set the cap aside then slide a jack under the front axle and raise the Jeep off the ground. Place a set of jack stands under the Jeep to support it.

2

Slide a section of rubber tubing onto the drain cock and place a drain pan below it. Open the drain cock with a wrench and allow the coolant to drain from the system. Spin the drain cock out of the radiator with a wrench and thread the new on in place, tightening it with the wrench. Make sure the drain is closed.

3

Raise the front of the Jeep off the jack stands then remove the stands from under the truck. Remove the drain pan from under the truck and lower the truck to the ground.

4

Fill the radiator with coolant then place the cap on the radiator. Open the pressure bottle and fill it with coolant until it reaches the full line on the bottle. Start the engine and turn the heat selector to on. Allow the Jeep to run until it reaches normal operating temperature, about five to 10 minutes.

5

Recheck the coolant level in the pressure bottle and add coolant until it reaches the full mark again. Continue checking and filling the bottle until the level no longer falls with the engine running.

6

Recheck the coolant level after several days of normal driving. Add additional coolant as needed at that time.

Replacing the windshield wiper blades for a Volkswagen 2006 Jetta can easily be done by the owner. If the wiper blades are damaged, dirty or worn, they will not properly clean the windshield which can become a driving hazard. Checking the condition of your wiper blades the same time as you change the oil is a good rule of thumb. There are different styles of wiper blades for the 2006 Jetta that can be purchased from most auto parts stores or a Volkswagen dealership.

Instructions

1

Insert and turn the ignition key to the "On" position but do not start the engine.

2

Press the wiper blade lever to the "On" position and turn the ignition key to the "Off" position. This will position the wipers on the windshield in order to access the blades.

3

Pull the wiper blades away from the windshield into an upright position.

4

Press the blade release button on the tip of the wiper arm.

5

Remove one blade at a time by pulling down on the wiper.

6

Slide the replacement blade onto the wiper arm until it clicks into place. Lower the wiper arm back onto the windshield.

7

Insert and turn the ignition key to the "On" position but do not start the engine.

8

Press the wiper blade lever to the "On" and "Off" position then turn the ignition key to "Off." This will place the wipers back in their normal operating position.

Removing the differential cover from the axle on your Ford Ranger is the only way for you to access the gears inside the differential. If you need to change the gear oil, inspect the ring and pinion gears or replace seals and bearings in the differential, you must remove the cover. It will only take a few minutes and just a few hand tools to complete the job. In most cases, removing the cover is the simplest part of any job involving the differential.

Instructions

1

Raise the rear of your Ranger off the ground with a jack. Position a set of jack stands under the rear axle tube to support the truck. Lower and remove the jack.

2

Position a large oil drain pan under the rear differential. Locate the bolts around the outer edge of the cover. Loosen all the bolts with a socket and ratchet. Remove them one at a time, starting at the bottom.

3

Leave the top bolt in place and use a wide putty knife to pry the bottom of the cover away from the differential housing. Oil will begin to drain from the differential, so make sure the pan is under it and catching the oil as it comes out.

4

Remove the last bolt at the top of the cover and lift the cover off the differential. You can now perform whatever work is necessary before reinstalling the cover with a new gasket.

The Mercedes-Benz C class was once known for its reliability, but since the merger with Chrysler in the 90s, Mercedes as a whole has lost much of its engineering reputation. To that end, many of the 2001 C-class cars have endemic electrical and mechanical faults; the SRS fault being one of the leading issues. SRS stands for the supplemental restraint system and is supposed to pre-tighten the seat belts in the event of a crash, but in practice serves only to require periodic trips to the dealership to fix its faulty sensors.There is, however, a way around this.

Instructions

1

Buy a Mercedes-Benz code reader from a website, there are many available. Make sure the code reader has a 16-pin OBDII standard socket port. The 16-pin port is what the diagnostic port on the C320 uses. 32-pin readers can be used, but an adapter and rather complex software is needed. It is simpler and cheaper to just get a 16-pin reader. No batteries are needed, as the code reader draws power from the car itself.

2

Start the car and wait for the reader to flash the name of the code reader, then press the "Read" button. It will be the green button to the bottom left. It will flash the error code three times; after the third time, press the erase button. Depending upon the model of code reader, you may have to press "Erase" after every code or only once for all the codes.

3

Disconnect the code reader and turn off the car. Then turn the car back on and replug the reader to check to see if the erasure took. If it has, you are done; if it has not, you will need to replace the SRS sensors themselves, which only a Mercedes-Benz mechanic can do.

You can install a windshield in your 1987 Chevy truck right at home, which should save you some money. If you see a long crack or significant chips in your windshield, you know its time to replace it. It is important to maintain the integrity of your trucks windshield because it protects you. Besides keeping debris out of your face while youre driving, the windshield keeps you from being thrown from the vehicle in the event of an accident.

Instructions

1

Wipe rust and dirt from the windshield frame with a damp towel. Put the new gasket in the sun until it feels looser and softer.

2

Fit the gasket snugly around the windshield. Make sure the side of the gasket that has the slit faces outside the Chevy. Locate the channel closest to the outside perimeter of the gasket. Run a thin line of sealant along this channel.

3

Spread petroleum jelly into the outer groove on the gasket. Put a little extra at the top center and bottom center. Insert a nylon cord into this outer groove. Start at the bottom center, leaving two long ends of cord hanging out in the center.

4

Place the windshield in the opening as you stand outside the vehicle. Make sure the cords hang inside the vehicle. Have your helper sit inside the vehicle to assist you in putting the windshield in place.

5

Ask your helper to pull one cord end slowly out and around the frame to bring the rubber lip of the gasket into place while you press the rubber gasket around the outside edge of the vehicle.

6

Wipe off the extra petroleum jelly. Allow the sealant to dry for two days before driving the truck.

The car alarm on your 2000 Windstar minivan is wired into your vans battery. When you are making a repair to your car such as a battery change out your alarm can go off. You can easily disable the Windstars car alarm by disconnecting the battery from the alarm. The battery is connected to the Windstar batterys negative terminal. Disconnecting the terminal from the battery will disable the alarm.

Instructions

1

Raise the hood of the Windstar to gain access to the battery.

2

Loosen the negative battery terminal labeled with a "-" with a socket wrench.

3

Disconnect the terminal from the battery to disable the alarm system.

The exhaust manifold connects directly to an engines cylinder ports and routes chemical-laden exhaust gases out toward the tailpipe. The seal between exhaust manifold and cylinder ports must be airtight for safety and emission reasons. You may use sealant along with a gasket.

Function

The exhaust manifold plays an important role in engine performance and longevity. Combustion within the engine cylinders creates waste gases expelled through the exhaust system, which begins at the exhaust manifold. You must maintain an airtight seal between cylinder ports and manifold.

Applying Sealant

Every professionally installed exhaust manifold and cylinder head have a gasket compressed between them. Age and engine heat wear gaskets down, reducing the quality of seal between the two components. Though sealant adds seal protection, new gasket installation does not require it.

Safety

A leaking seal or cracked exhaust manifold allows harmful exhaust gases such as carbon monoxide into the vehicle cabin. Carbon monoxide impairs motor functions and in large doses can cause death.

The 1990 Ford Ranger 2.3-liter pickup uses a concentric slave cylinder, which is located inside the transmission. This means that the transmission must be removed to replace the slave cylinder. When you remove the transmission, if the clutch is older, it is a good idea to replace it at the same time, simply because of the time required to complete the job. You will need a special clutch coupling removal tool, part number T88T-70522-A, which is available at any Ford dealership.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the battery ground cable and lay it aside, making sure that it does not touch metal. Use the clutch coupling removal tool to disconnect the coupling at the transmission. Slide the white, plastic sleeve towards the slave cylinder with one hand and tug on the tube with the other.

2

Remove the lever, shim and bushing from the transmission with the appropriate sockets. Stuff a rag into the opening to keep dirt and debris from falling into the transmission. Disconnect the clutch master cylinder push rod from the clutch pedal with the appropriate socket.

3

Jack up the Ranger with a floor jack and support it on jack stands. Make a mark on the drive shaft and at the same place on the rear axle flange so you know how to line up the drive shaft when you put it back in. Remove the drive shaft at the axle with the appropriate socket then pull it out of the rear of the transmission. Plug the housing to prevent fluid from leaking out.

4

Unbolt and remove the dust shield from the clutch housing with the appropriate socket. Remove the wires from the starter and lay them aside. Remove the harness for the back-up light (near the starter). Unbolt and remove the starter with the appropriate socket. Unscrew the speedometer cable from the transmission and set it out of the way.

5

Place a block of wood on one of the floor jacks. Slide it under the engine oil pan and jack it up so that the wood just touches the bottom of the oil pan to support the engine. Place a second jack under the transmission. If you are using a lift, use a transmission jack instead.

6

Remove the bell housing bolts and washers with the appropriate socket. Remove the transmission mounting bolts and the damper retaining bolts and nuts with the appropriate socket. Unbolt and remove the cross-member.

7

Lower the transmission jack and, at the same time, work the transmission off its dowel pins. Pull the transmission towards the back of the Ranger then place it on the ground. If you are using a floor jack, you can leave it on the floor jack if it is stable on the jack.

8

Remove the clutch housing-to-transmission nuts then pull the housing assembly off the transmission. Remove the slave cylinder from the input shaft. Slide the new slave cylinder over the input shaft, making sure the tower part of the slave cylinder faces the transmission.

9

Reinstall the clutch housing. The clutch housing has notches that line up with the slave cylinder. Make sure the slave cylinder is located properly in the clutch housing notches. Clean the mating surface of the clutch housing and the rear of the engine, especially around the dowel holes, with rags and carburetor cleaner. If there are burrs that will not wipe off easily, gently go over them with fine-grit sandpaper. Clean the area with carburetor cleaner and rags after sanding.

10

Raise the transmission with the jack. Line up the input shaft splines with the clutch disc splines. Move the transmission in towards the dowels, adjusting the jack as needed. Push the transmission onto the dowels.

11

Install the bell housing bolts and washers. Put the washers in place so that the bolts do not damage the aluminum bell housing. Tighten the bolts to 33 foot-pounds of torque. Move the transmission jack out of the way.

12

Reinstall the starter and tighten the bolts to 17 foot-pounds of torque. Jack the engine up with the floor jack. Reinstall the cross-member, transmission mount and damper. Tighten the bolts firmly. Remove the floor jack from under the engine. Reinstall the drive shaft by pushing it into the transmission extension housing then connecting it to the rear axle flange. Make sure the marks you made earlier line up. Reattach the washer, lock washer and the nuts. Tighten the drive shaft-to-flange nuts to 70 foot-pounds of torque.

13

Reinstall the dust shield. Tighten the dust shield bolts to 8 foot-pounds of torque. Reinstall the starter, the starter wires, the back-up lamp wiring harness and the speedometer cable. Check the transmission fluid level. Add Ford manual transmission lube as needed.

14

Remove the rags from the shifter hole. Reinstall the gearshift lever, shim and bushing with the appropriate sockets. Reinstall the lever-to-cover bolts and the boot retaining screws. Reconnect the master cylinder push rod to the clutch pedal with the appropriate socket. Attach the battery ground cable to the battery ground terminal. Bleed the clutch.

The Chrysler Sebring was a rental fleet special (to put it favorably). Chrysler made the Sebring with lowest bidder parts and the minimum amount of research and development, which may have led to Chryslers dire financial straits. Maintenance on Chrysler Sebrings is an unfortunate constant if you own one, as they are not made well in any sense of the word. The control arms in the Sebring support the steering knuckle and suspension components and are only on the front wheels.

Instructions

1

Park the Sebring Convertible somewhere flat and out of traffic. Empty the car out to make it lighter to jack up. Place the car jack under the corner that you want to replace the control arm on. Jack the corner up and slide in a jack stand to keep it up. Use the tire iron to remove the lug nuts from the wheel and then slide the wheel off the steering knuckle.

2

Pull the retaining pin out of the ball joint on the underside of the steering knuckle. Use a pair of pliers and a flat-head screwdriver as a pry bar. Unbolt the ball joint nut and then pry the ball joint out of the steering knuckle. Unbolt the two bolts on the lower end of the left arm of the control arm from the steering knuckle. Repeat the unbolting on the right arm of the control arm.

3

Unbolt the upper part of the control arm and then pull it down from the cars frame. Slide in the new control arm and bolt it onto the frame. Slide in the steering knuckle and thread in the two bolts on each side first to hold the knuckle in place. Tighten the bolts down with a wrench once the knuckle is properly aligned. Push the ball joint back in and bolt it into place. Slide the retaining pin back in and reattach the tire. Lower the Sebring off the jack stand.

Replacing a tail light lens on your Oldsmobile Ciera requires removing the entire tail light assembly. The lens is molded to the rest of the assembly and cannot be removed separately. The assembly comes off the car very quickly and replacement light assemblies are readily available from the dealer or through some auto parts retailers. If you are on a budget, a more affordable option is to source this part through a salvage yard.

Instructions

1

Open the trunk of your Oldsmobile and locate the two retaining screws on the inboard edge of the tail light assembly. Remove both screws using a Phillips screwdriver and set them aside for later reuse.

2

Pull the tail light assembly away from the body and locate the bulb sockets on the rear of the assembly. Rotate the bulb socket counterclockwise to unlock it from the assembly, then pull the socket and bulb out of the assembly.

3

Install the bulb sockets into the rear of the new taillight assembly; rotate them clockwise to lock them in place. Now is a good time to replace any bulbs in the rear that may not be working.

4

Position the new tail light assembly on the rear of the car and install the two retaining screws through the tail light, threading them into the body. Tighten the screws with a Phillips screwdriver until they are snug, but do not over-tighten them or you will crack the plastic.

5

Repeat the process for the opposite side assembly, if needed. Close the trunk of the car.

The 1993 Mercedes Benz lets you know when you need to have your engine looked at by a mechanic by illuminating the "Check Engine" light on your control panel. The cause of this light can be diagnosed using an OBD II scanner tool that reads trouble codes, telling you exactly what is wrong with your car. After the codes have been read and the problem repaired, you will want to clear the check engine light to turn it off. This can be done at home with no special tools required and just a few minutes of your time.

Instructions

1

Put the key into the ignition and turn the car on but dont start the engine. Notice the display on the instrument panel between the tachometer and the speedometer.

2

Press the button on the lower left side of the steering wheel. The display will tell you why the light is on.

3

Look for the button next to the one you just pushed and press it. This will verify the reason for the check engine light.

4

Find the reset button on the instrument panel. This is located on the left side of the panel. Press and hold it until you see the instructions telling you to hold it for 3 seconds to reset it. Let go of the reset button.

5

Press the reset button one more time and hold it until the display indicates that the check engine light has been reset. Release the button. The check engine light should now be off.

Batteries cables must be hooked up correctly when charging a battery while it is in or outside of the vehicle. The red cable is connected to the positive (+) battery terminal and the black cable is connected to the negative (-) terminal or to the car frame.

Battery to Battery

When the battery cables are hooked up with the negative to the positive and positive to the negative terminals, the battery can explode. This is true for the battery being charged and the battery in another car being used to supply the charge.

Battery Charger

A battery charger that is being used to charge a dead battery will be damaged if the positive and negative cables are hooked up incorrectly. The current to the battery charger will burn out component inside the charger.

Injury

A battery can explode when the cables are hooked up backwards. Anyone standing near the battery when it explodes could be seriously injured. Battery explosions can cause burns, permanent disfiguration and blindness.

The 40 mm, constant velocity, Keihan Carb is probably the most common carburetor on motorcycles. It has been standard equipment on BMWs, Harleys and on several Japanese bikes as well. In a nutshell, you change the needle and seat by removing the top of the carburetor, pull out the vacuum piston and the three small parts inside, reassemble the vacuum piston with a new needle, and screw the top back on the carburetor.

Instructions

1

Set the carburetor, top-side up, on a bed of rags on a stable surface. Remove the four screws that hold the top on the carburetor with a flat-head screwdriver.

2

Remove the top, the small collar and the long spring. Lift out the vacuum piston from the middle of the carburetor along with the small parts inside.

3

Remove the needle and the spring seat from the vacuum piston.

4

Reassemble by placing the needle through the center hole in the vacuum piston. Place the spring seat over the top of the needle.

5

Reinsert the vacuum piston into the carburetor body so the vacuum piston fits in the slide track grooves. If the piston does not fit, turn it 180 degrees. Ensure the diaphragm seats evenly in the groove on top of the carburetor body.

6

Place the spring over the spring seat, and carefully lower the top. Hold the top down with one hand.

7

Insert one finger from your other hand into the venturi, and raise and lower the vacuum piston to ensure the spring is not binding.

8

Screw the top back on the carburetor with a flat-head screwdriver.

The Chevrolet 230 is a six-cylinder inline engine. The engine is quite reliable and was used in many General Motors, Studebaker and Checker vehicles. General Motors produced a large number of inline six-cylinder engines of the same configuration with different bores. High production equates to affordable and readily available parts; new ignition and tune-up parts for the Chevrolet 230 can be found on the shelves of many auto parts stores. Worn contact points and oxidized distributor cap electrodes are a few good reasons for a tune-up.

Instructions

Tune-up

1

Trace the spark plug wire from the first spark plug in the engine to the distributor cap and mark a corresponding line on the distributor housing straight down from the spark plug wire. Be sure the mark is visible on the distributor after the cap is removed.

2

Remove the distributor cap and rotor button from the distributor. The distributor is located on the left side of the engine when viewed from the front and the rotor button is inside the distributor cap.

3




Loosen the nut on the wire post of the distributor, using the small ignition wrenches, and remove the contact points and condenser wire. Remove the screws that attach the contact points to the distributor plate and remove the points.

4

Loosen, but dont remove, the screw that holds the condenser band to the distributor plate and push the condenser out of the band. Dont remove this screw because it is tough to get back in place and if its dropped in the distributor it is difficult to retrieve.

5

Install the new contact points with a gap set at .019-inch with a feeler gauge. Push a new condenser into the condenser band, re-tighten the band screw and attach the wire to the wire stud on the contact points.

6

Place a new rotor button on top of the distributor shaft and install a new distributor cap. Be sure the rotor button seats into the grove on top of the distributor shaft or it may aim at the wrong distributor post and cause harmful back firing.

7

Pull the spark plug wire off the first spark plug on the engine and remove it from the distributor cap. Remove that spark plug and replace it with a new one. Place one end of a new spark plug wire on the new spark plug and the other end in the hole of the newly installed distributor cap that corresponds with the mark made on the distributor.

8

Proceed in a clockwise direction and remove the next spark plug wire from the old distributor cap. Trace that wire to the spark plug, remove the spark plug and replace it with a new one. Install a new spark plug wire on this plug and place the other end of the plug wire in the next hole of the newly installed cap proceeding in a clockwise direction.

Repeat this procedure until all the spark plugs and wires are replaced with new ones.

9

Unscrew the wing nut on top of the air cleaner and remove it. The 1949 Chevy is equipped with an oil bath air cleaner. The oil bath air cleaner has a wire mesh type filter in it and contains oil to trap the dirt.

Dump the oil from air cleaner in a container for proper disposal. Internally clean the air cleaner with a spray brake cleaner. Refill the air cleaner with oil to the level line marked and reinstall it.

Engine Timing

10

Connect the timing light induction clamp to the spark plug wire of the number one spark plug. Connect the lights red clamp to the positive terminal of the battery and the negative clamp to any grounded bolt on the engine.

11

Loosen the distributor hold down screw a half turn. Disconnect the vacuum line from the distributor housing and start the vehicle.

12

Locate the timing marks through the bell-housing access hole, located on the front right side of the bell housing by aiming the timing light pulse at the hole.

13

Set the engine idle at 500 rpm, align the circle ball mark on the flywheel with the indicator mark on the bell-housing under the timing light strobe, by rotating the distributor shaft until the marks align perfectly. Lock down the distributor hold down bolt once the marks are aligned and recheck the timing to be sure it did not change after it was tightened.

The muffler on the 1998 Dodge 3500 Diesel is the main component that prevents the diesel engine running too loud. The exhaust pipe that is attached to the exhaust manifold on the front of the engine travels under the truck and into the muffler. As the sound of the engine travels through the muffler, the baffles inside of the muffler cause the sound to exit in a quieter manner. Over time, the excessive heat that travels through the muffler, will cause the inside of the muffler to rust and not perform properly.

Instructions

1

Park your 1998 Dodge 3500 Diesel on a flat surface and engage the parking brake. Wait one to two hours for the muffler and the exhaust system to cool down.

2

Slide under the rear of the truck and locate the front of the muffler. The exhaust pipe that travels from the engine is mounted to the front muffler port by a metal clamp with two mounting bolts.

3

Saturate the two mounting bolts completely with the rust inhibitor spray or the penetrating oil. Position a socket and a breaker bar onto one of the mounting bolts. Slowly turn the bolt counterclockwise to see how tight the bolt is fastened. If the bolt is still tight, spray more of the rust inhibitor or the penetrating oil on the mounting bolts and repeat the process with the breaker bar and socket until the bolt is loose. Follow the same step with the other mounting bolt. Once the bolts are loose, use a ratchet to finish unscrewing the bolts.

4

Finish loosening and removing the two mounting bolts from the clamp with a ratchet and a socket. Pull the mounting bolts out of the clamp and knock the clamp off of the muffler port with a hammer.

5

Slide the end of a flathead screwdriver into the end of the muffler. Pry the end of the muffler port upward off the exhaust pipe. Make sure the entire front muffler port is pried up off of the exhaust pipe. Try and pull the muffler loose from the exhaust pipe. If the muffler is still stuck, use the hammer to tap the front of the muffler loose from the exhaust pipe.

6

Pull the muffler off the rubber hanger that holds the muffler in place. Slide the muffler out from under the truck. Position the new muffler under the truck and into the rubber hanger.

7

Slide the front port of the muffler over the exhaust pipe. Reconnect the clamp over the exhaust clamp and the muffler with the two mounting bolts. Tighten the bolts down tight with the ratchet and socket. Finish torquing the mounting bolts with the breaker bar and a socket.

Removing the alternator from the engine of your Jeep will allow you to have the unit tested if you are experience changing-system problems. If you are working on other components on the front of the engine, the alternator may need removing for access to other parts. Whatever the reason for removing it, you can take the alternator off the bracket and out of the engine compartment in about 20 to 30 minutes with basic hands tools.

Instructions

1

Open the hood of your Jeep and locate the negative battery cable end on the negative battery terminal. Remove the retaining bolt from the battery cable end with a wrench, then remove the cable from the battery.

2

Locate the serpentine belt tensioner on the front of the engine and place a socket and breaker bar on the axis bolt, the bolt in the center of the idler pulley, then rotate the tensioner counterclockwise. Remove the belt from the alternator pulley, then rotate the tensioner back to the home position and remove the breaker bar.

3

Locate the electrical connector on the top of the alternator, depress the locking tab and pull it out of the connector on the alternator body. Lay the connector aside for now. Locate the second connector on the rear of the alternator. Remove the retaining nut from the terminal with a socket and ratchet, then remove the wire from the terminal.

4

Remove the upper mounting bolt from the alternator with a socket and ratchet. Set the bolt aside for reuse later.

5

Locate and remove the lower mounting bolt from the alternator with a socket and ratchet, then lift the alternator off the mounting bracket and out of the engine compartment.

The job of your Volvo S80s oxygen sensor is to regulate the fuel and air ratio in your car. It also controls your gas mileage. If the oxygen sensor malfunctions, your S80 will run poorly, and its gas mileage will decline. With a few tools, most people can replace the oxygen sensor safely.

Instructions

1

Locate the oxygen sensor on your pre-catalytic converter. It is near the right front wheel well of your S80.

2

Detach the two small air intake pipes by hand from the air box and from the blowoff valves. Twist off the large air intake pipe as well from the air box and the rear turbo. This provides access to the oxygen sensor. Spray WD-40 over the existing oxygen sensor to make it easier to remove.

3

Use the 7/8-inch wrench to remove the failed sensor. Locate the stock sensor wire near the engine lift loop near your engines firewall. Connect the ends of the stock sensor wire to the new oxygen sensors wires using the crimp connectors.

4

Rub a small amount of anti-seize paste onto the new oxygen sensor threads. Do not get any paste on the sensor itself, because that could cause it to fail. The paste will make removal easier the next time.

5

Screw in the new oxygen sensor, and tighten it enough with the wrench that it cannot be loosened easily. Reattach the air pipes to the valves.

The Ford F-series includes pickup trucks in a variety of sizes. The F-350 is a full-size pickup that is classified as a 1-ton truck, although its actual carrying capacity is much larger. A 1995 Ford F-350 has several choices of engines, with the most common being an 8-cylinder 7.3-liter diesel engine. The oil pump in this vehicle is attached to the bottom of the engine block. The oil pump installation procedure also requires you to drain the oil from the engine.

Instructions

1

Ensure the engine is completely cold to avoid injury from hot oil. Place a drain pan under the engine oil and remove the drain bolt on the oil pan with a socket wrench. Let the oil drain into the drain pan and replace the drain bolt. Store the oil for later use.

2

Remove the mounting bolts for the oil pan with a socket wrench and disconnect the oil pan from the bottom of the engine. Detach the oil pick-up tube from the oil pump.

3

Remove the mounting bolts that fasten the oil pump to the bottom of the engine with a socket wrench. Detach the oil pump from the engine and discard the oil pump gasket.

4

Mount a new gasket to the new oil pump and mount the new oil pump to the bottom of the engine. Tighten the mounting bolts to 14 foot-pounds with a torque wrench. Attach the oil pickup tube to the oil pump.

5

Install the oil pan and fasten the mounting bolts with a socket wrench. Replace the oil that you previously drained from the engine.