Fix It

Motor mounts are important automobile parts used to protect the engine, transmission and surrounding components from damage. Motor mounts also reduce the amount of noise and vibration in the vehicle to improve passenger comfort.

Operation

Motor mounts secure the engine and transmission to the body of a vehicle. Motor mounts are made of two plates of steel joined by a large rubber block. One plate is attached to the engine or transmission and the other to the frame. The rubber block cushions the movements of the engine and transmission.

Hydraulic

Though less commonly used than the rubber block design, some motor mounts use hydraulic fluid to cushion the engine and transmission movements. These mounts also use two steel plates but are connected by a small hydraulic cylinder. Some hydraulic mounts adjust while driving to optimize the mounts performance.

Troubleshooting

A defective motor mount allows the engine and transmission to move too far and too quickly. During acceleration or heavy braking, the broken mount may create a thumping noise as the engine or transmission strikes the broken mount. Broken motor mounts should be immediately replaced before this excessive movement causes damage.

Replacing the exhaust manifolds on your Ford F-150 truck is a complicated process that varies greatly depending not only on the year of the truck but also the type of engine. The manifolds are connected to the cylinder heads and the catalytic converters. You should talk with your mechanic before attempting this type of repair.

Instructions

V6 Engines

1

Disconnect the trucks negative battery cable, then raise the truck and securely support it on jack stands.

2

Disconnect the electrical connectors to the oxygen sensor.

3

Remove the nuts connecting the exhaust Y-pipe to the manifolds. Apply penetrating oil to the nuts and studs, if necessary.

4

Remove the engine lifting bracket. For the drivers side manifold, remove the dipstick tube from the oil pan by removing its nut and pulling it out. For the passengers side manifold, disconnect the EGR pipe from the manifold.

5

Disconnect the six mounting nuts for the exhaust manifold. Separate the manifold from the cylinder head and remove the old gaskets.

6

Place the replacement exhaust manifold with new gaskets onto the cylinder head. Install the mounting nuts with a torque wrench, tightening the center nuts first, followed by the front pair and the rear pair.

7

Reconnect and install the other components in the reverse order of removal--this can include the engine lifting bracket, oil dipstick tube, EGR pipe and oxygen sensor electrical connector.

8

Lower the truck and reconnect the battery cable.

V8 Engines

9

Disconnect the negative battery cable, raise the truck and support it on jack stands. Remove the inner splash shield from the fender well.

10

Disconnect the EGR pipe at the EGR valve and exhaust manifold if you are removing the drivers side manifold on a 4.6 liter engine. On a 5.4 liter, remove the front and rear heated oxygen sensors and the exhaust support bracket.

11

Remove the starter if youre removing the passengers side manifold. Also remove the stabilizer bar on a 5.4 liter engine.

12

Disconnect the catalytic converter assemblies from the manifold on a 5.4 liter engine by removing their nuts, then move the assemblies to the rear of the truck.

13

Remove the mounting nuts from the exhaust manifold and remove it. Remove the studs from the cylinder heads and discard them and the nuts.

14

Clean the mating surface on the cylinder heads, using a gasket scraper to remove any carbon deposits. Install new studs into the cylinder heads.

15

Place the exhaust manifold over the studs with new gaskets. Install new mounting nuts, working from the rear to the front and alternating between the top and bottom rows.

16

Install the remaining components in the reverse order of removal and lower the truck. If you need to reconnect the EGR pipe, apply a small amount of anti-seize compound on the threads.

You can reset the service engine light on your Chevrolet S10 by using an OBD-II scan tool. This on-board diagnostic tool can be purchased from your local auto parts retailer, although many such stores will check the code and reset the light at no charge.



The service engine light will turn on at regular intervals when your vehicle needs routine maintenance. After the maintenance is completed you will need to manually reset the light to turn it off. This is an easy adjustment that will only take a few moments.

Instructions

1

Look for the OBD II port located near the emergency brake on the lower dashboard. The OBD II port will be the receptive end for the connector on the OBD II scanner tool. Examine the connector end of the tool and the receptive port to make sure you have the correct port. Plug the OBD II scanner tool into the port.

2

Close the doors, roll up the windows and turn on the OBD II scanner tool. Put the key into the ignition and turn it to "on," but take care not to start the engine. Turning the vehicle on will start the electrical system which will power the OBD II scanner tool and allow it to do its job. The engine needs to remain off for the scanner to work.

3

Wait for the screen on the scanner to stop flashing. The service engine light will have turned off. Turn the key in the ignition to "off" and unplug the scanner.

4

Restart the engine and verify that the service engine light is still off on the instrument panel. Turn off the car.

Like any other craftsman, a mechanic must use tools to aid him in getting the job done efficiently and effectively. One such tool often taken for granted is the bottle jack. A bottle jack lifts a heavy vehicle with hydraulics. Without a bottle jack, a mechanics work would often be impeded by the lack of accessibility to a part of a vehicle. Repairing a bottle jack can be expensive. Try fixing it yourself before making the investment in repair or a new purchase.

Instructions

1

Extend the jack arm fully to its maximum height at the jack mount surface.

2

Locate the release valve on the opposite side of your pump. Pull out the piston located within the chamber.

3

Use your flashlight to check the chamber for cracks, oil build-up, dirt and other substances. You should see a small trace amount of oil within the chamber but nothing more. Excessive dirt indicates a bad seal which will require professional repair.

4

Locate the oil reservoir filler cap which is the uppermost cap inside the release valve. Use your screwdriver to pry open the cap if necessary. The hydraulic oil should be 1/4 inch below the opening. Fill the reservoir to the 1/4 inch mark if necessary.

5

Wipe the jack clean with a cloth to detect oil. Pump the jack several times by the handle with the release valve still open. Look for leaking oil.

6

Close the release valve. Pump the jack up to its full height position. If the jack will not rise, bleed the jack by opening the release valve.

7

Attach the jack to your vehicle. Pump the jack to lift the vehicle to see if the jack is now working properly. If the jack will not lift, seek professional repair.

Removal of the shifter boot in your Dodge Ram truck allows you to access the four bolts on top of the transmission retaining the shifter assembly to the transmission. The rubber boot may crack over time and require replacement as well. If this is the case, you can get a replacement from the dealer or through a salvage yard. If you remove the shifter boot and intend to reuse it, use care so you do not rip it as you pull it off the shifter shaft.

Instructions

1

Sit in the seat of your Dodge, sliding it all the way back to expose the shifter boot on the floor of the truck. Locate the metal ring on the floor surrounding the shifter boot.

2

Grasp the shifter knob on top of the shifter assembly, turn it counterclockwise to loosen it and remove it from the shifter shaft. Set the knob aside in a safe spot so you can put it back later.

3

Locate the screws in the metal ring on the floor around the shifter boot. Remove the screws with a Phillips screwdriver, and set them aside.

4

Lift the ring, and pull the boot up the shaft. Pull the entire boot assembly off the top of the shifter shaft as a unit.

Car air conditioner systems have multiple parts and if any of them malfunction your air conditioner may stop working properly. If you find your cars air conditioning system is not producing the cool air it used to, there are a number of simple ways to investigate the cause of the problem. Most air conditioner malfunctions occur due to a lack of rigerant, sometimes caused by leaks in the air conditioning unit.

Instructions

Check the Refrigerant Level

1

Turn off your car, then open the hood and locate your air conditioning unit. Air conditioning units are located at various places depending on the type of car you own. If you have trouble finding it, consult your car manual. The unit will have a compartment for the rigerant and a fan system.

2

Connect the AC pressure gauge to the side port of the air conditioning unit. Turn on the car and allow the engine to run for a few minutes.

3

Depress the accelerator. If the AC pressure gauges meter dips down when you accelerate, there is not enough rigerant in the vehicle.

Check for Leaks

4

Visually inspect the air conditioning unit with your car running. Check to see if the compressor is cycling and if the fan belt seems work.

5

Inject a small amount of auto-safe florescent dye into the air conditioning unit. This florescent dye is available at most auto parts stores and allows you to see any leaks or damage in the air conditioner unit. Follow the directions for insertion on the can.

6

Visually inspect the air conditioner unit for any holes or leaks in the pipes, tubes or compressors. The florescent dye will cover any holes or cracks, making them easy to spot.

7

Fix cracks or holes before adding more rigerant to prevent pollution and damage to your vehicle.

The first thing you can do to replace the catalytic converter in your Toyota Tercel is forget about the cheaper universal fit catalytic converter at the auto parts stores. Although this may seemingly save you money for the part, youre going to have to buy adapters or figure out how to make that universal fit converter fit like a direct fit converter. A direct fit converter for a Tercel will have a two-point flange on either side and will do just as its label describes: fit directly. In the long run it will save you time, money, and will work better for your Tercel since it was specifically designed for it.

Instructions

1

Lift the Toyota Tercel on a car lift all the way up.

2

Put on the cutting glasses, and light the acetylene torch using a striker. Cut the bolts and nuts from the catalytic converter from the flange(s) on the converter side. This way you will not incur damage to the flanges bolted to the converter flanges. Cut the bolt heads (with the torch) or the nuts flush to the converter flange.

3

Turn the torch off, switch over to safety glasses, and knock out the bolts from the converter side of the flanges using the hammer and a long stemmed punch. If they do not punch through, you may need to relight the torch and cut into the bolt hole a little deeper.

4

Remove the old converter.

5

Pick the old gaskets off of the pipe flanges on both side using a pick or awl.

6

Clean the surface of the flat part of the pipe flanges on both sides using an angled die grinder with a sanding disk.

7

Place the new gaskets onto the small pipe outlet protruding from the pipe flanges.

8

Check the exhaust flow of the new catalytic converter. It will be stamped on the shell or shields of the converter and be easy to see. There will be an arrow pointing in the direction of the exhaust flow or an A and B marking. A would indicate towards the front of the motor, and B would indicate towards the back of the Tercel.

9

Attach the converter flanges to the pipe flanges and place the bolts into the flanges (in any direction) in this fashion: bolt head with a flat washer through the flanges, then a lock washer and nut.

10

Tighten the bolts and nuts holding one end with a wrench and tightening with an air ratchet. Tighten each bolt a little bit, switch to the next one, and continue this pattern until all four nuts and bolts have seated the flanges tight together.

11

Remove tools and lower the Tercel on the lift. Start it up, raise it up again, and check for any possible leaks coming from the flange connections. If so, tighten the bolts some more.

The General Motors Oil Life Monitor System first appeared in GM trucks in the 2000 model year. The system measures the remaining service life of an engines motor oil based on several factors, including the number of engine starts, miles driven at operating temperature and total hours of engine operation. The Oil Life Monitor System determines intervals between oil changes based on operating conditions. You should reset the oil light to initiate a service interval after you change the oil.

Instructions

1

Turn the ignition key to the "on" position.

2

Depress the accelerator pedal three times to the floor in rapid succession within five seconds. Turn the ignition key off and wait for ten seconds.

3

Turn the ignition key to the "Start" position, and start the engine. The Oil Life Monitor system has been reset.

The water pump in a 1990 Ford F-150 Lariat keeps the engine cool by circulating water and coolant throughout the engine. A malfunctioning water pump can cause the engines temperature to increase, even when the radiator has sufficient coolant. This may eventually result in permanent damage to the engine. The pump attaches to the timing chain cover on the front of the engine block. You will need to drain the cooling system when replacing the pump.

Instructions

1

Position a sealable container under the radiator drain hole and remove the drain plug. Wait for the coolant to drain into the container. Seal the container for later use. Replace the drain plug.

2

Remove the mounting bolts for the cooling fan shroud with a socket wrench. Disconnect the shroud from the radiator. Detach the radiator hose, bypass hose and heater hose from the water pump. Disconnect the drive belt and the cooling fan assembly, including the fan spacer and pulley.

3

Remove the alternator mounting bolts with a socket wrench, and move the alternator out of the way to access the water pump. You may also need to remove the power steering pump bracket if the vehicle is so equipped. Disconnect the mounting bolts for the water pump and detach the pump from the timing chain cover. Discard the water pump gasket.

4

Apply a thin layer of sealer to the new gasket. Install the new pump and gasket to the timing chain cover. Tighten the mounting bolts for the water pump to 18 foot-pounds with a torque wrench.

5

Repeat steps two and three in reverse order to complete the installation of the new water pump. Replace the coolant in the radiator.

The 1998 Dodge pickup uses a crank sensor to feed detailed information to the power train control module to indicate the current position of the crankshaft as it rotates, as well as the crankshafts revolutions per minute (rpm). The crankshaft position sensors data determines when to fire the fuel injectors. On gasoline engines, it also determines when to fire the ignition coil to light the fuel-air mixture. Intermittent problems with the crankshaft position sensor cause hesitations and stalling of the vehicle. A continuous error with the crank sensor will prevent the vehicle from starting. Testing the crankshaft position sensor requires access to the sensor and plug.

Instructions

Gasoline Engines

1

Set the parking brake of the 1998 Dodge pickup truck. Pull the hood release handle. Open the hood.

2

Disconnect the negative battery cable. Loosen the 10 mm retaining nut on the battery cable clamp using a 10 mm wrench. Pry the battery cable off the negative battery post by twisting side to side by hand. The negative battery post has a "-" label next to it.

3

Stand on the passenger side of the truck. Place the work light next to the exhaust manifold as close as possible to the firewall.

4

Lean over the fender. Extend the telescoping inspection mirror in between the back of the cylinder head and the firewall.

5

Angle the mirror to inspect the edge of the transmission bell housing where it meets the engine block. A steel bracket secured by two 10 mm bolts with a three-wire harness retains the crankshaft position sensor, which reads gaps in a ring of the flywheel.

Diesel Engines

6

Open the hood of the 1998 Dodge pickup, and disconnect the negative battery cable using a 10 mm wrench.

7

Lie down face up on an automotive creeper, and slide under the drivers side of the vehicle just behind the tire, taking the wrench and the trouble light with you.

8

Hang an automotive trouble light underneath the vehicle.

9

Remove the three 10 mm bolts retaining the starter to the transmission bell housing using a 10 mm wrench. Remove the starter.

10

Look directly between the engine block and the location from which you removed the starter. The crankshaft position sensor is a black plastic sensor with an aluminum retaining bracket held in place by a single 10 mm bolt. The crank sensor has a three-wire harness plugged into it.

Honda introduced the mid-sized complement to its compact Civic -- the Honda Accord in the 1976 model year. The Accord began its life as a feature-packed vehicle for its era sporting high-end elements, such as an AM-FM stereo, rear defroster and a remote hatch release. The 2001 Accord EX came standard with a wide array of features including an AM-FM stereo with a 6-disc CD player. An anti-theft system protected the stereo by locking the stereo from working when it lost power until you entered a five-digit code. If youve lost the code, contact the dealership with the radios serial number to get the code.

Instructions

Entering the Radio Code

1

Insert the key in the Accords ignition and turn it to the "Acc" or "On" position.

2

Turn the radio on by pressing the volume button, if needed.

3

Observe as "Code" appears on the radios display.

4

Enter the five-digit code from the radio code card the dealership provided with the vehicle, by pressing the corresponding preset buttons on the radio. If entered correctly, the radio begins to play. If the radio does not play, turn the Accord off and retry from Step 3. If you do not have the five digit code, see the section titled "Obtaining a Lost Radio Code."

5

Turn the Accord off.

Obtaining a Lost Radio Code

6

Turn the Accords ignition to the "Acc" or "On" position.

7

Press and hold the number 1 and 6 preset buttons and turn on the radio by pressing the volume button on the radio.

8

Observe as four digits appear on the radios screen, make note of these numbers. After five seconds, a second set of four numbers appears on the screen, write down these numbers. All eight numbers make up the radios eight-digit serial number.

9

Take the eight-digit serial number to a Honda dealership to obtain the radio code.

The crank position sensor in a General Motors Northstar engine is part of the sensing and diagnostic system that is controlled by the powertrain control module (PCM). The crank position sensor sends information to the PCM about the position of the crankshaft relative to the engine block. The PCM uses this information to determine when to actuate specific electronic components, such as the ignition. When the crank sensor fails, the engine will not start. Replacement sensors are available from Cadillac dealerships and local auto parts stores.

Instructions

1

Place the vehicles transmission in the park or "P" position. Shut down the engine and set the parking brake. Let the vehicle cool for at least 60 minutes before proceeding.

2

Open the hood and disconnect the negative battery lead using a battery terminal wrench.

3

Locate the crank position sensor on right side of the engine block, approximately three inches above the oil filter housing. It is made from black plastic and is connected to the engine with a 10 mm bolt.

4

Depress the locking tab on the sensors electrical connector and unplug the connector from the sensor. Remove the bolt holding the sensor to the engine, using a 3/8-inch ratchet and a 10 mm socket. Grip the sensor with a slip-joint pliers and gently remove it using a twisting/pulling motion.

5

Lubricate the new crank sensor with a small amount of clean engine oil. Install the new sensor into the engine block using a twisting/pushing motion. Reinstall the sensors retaining bolt and reattach its electrical connector.

6

Reconnect the negative battery lead. Start the engine and verify that it operates properly. The engine should start within three seconds of cranking and run smoothly.

Removing the EGR valve from the 2.8-liter diesel engine in a Jeep Liberty can be time-consuming. Fortunately, with a little effort and a lot of patience, you can do it yourself and save on an otherwise large repair bill. The EGR valve is located on the back of the engine, just below the intake manifold on the drivers side of the engine. The valve bolts in place with four 8-millimeter bolts that are hidden below the manifold, so you will not be able to see them.

Instructions

1

Open the hood of your Jeep and locate the negative battery cable on the battery. Loosen the pinch bolt with a wrench then lift the cable off the battery and set it aside.

2

Position a catch basin under the passengers side of the radiator and remove the petcock from the radiator tank, allowing the coolant to drain from the system. Once the coolant has stopped draining, replace the petcock.

3

Remove the bolts from the top of the engine cover on the engine, using a socket and ratchet. Lift the cover off the engine and set it aside.

4

Locate the EGR valve on the back of the engine near the drivers side head. Remove the clamps from the cooling lines on the EGR valve then pull the two coolant lines off the valve.

5

Remove the four 8-millimeter bolts from the EGR valve with a wrench then separate the valve from the engine block. A ratcheting wrench may be necessary to remove the 8-millimeter bolts.

Depending on what year and what motor you have in your GMC Sonoma will dictate the level of difficulty and the type of catalytic converter you need for replacement. Before the year 2000, the converter was connected to the exhaust system behind the front exhaust pipe in the popular 4.3 liter engine. In the year 2000, the catalytic converter became the front exhaust pipe which is much more challenging and difficult to remove and replace.

Instructions

How to Install a Catalytic Converter in a GMC Sonoma

1

Lift the GMC Sonoma all the up on the car lift. Load all the tools and the new converter into the tool cart/tray and wheel it over near you under the Sonoma, but out of your way. Put on the safety glasses.

2

Locate and remove the oxygen sensors. In the front Y-pipe converter application, there will be three oxygen sensors. In the older kind of Sonoma, there is only one oxygen sensor. Locate the plugs for the wire and unplug them using the flathead screwdriver to press in on the clip lock. Use the ratchet and oxygen sensor socket to remove the sensors. If need be, you may have to heat the pipe up a little with the torch to extract them. Allow them to cool down if you needed the torch.

3

Screw the oxygen sensor(s) into the new converter, but apply a light coat of anti-seize lubricant on the threads first. For the Y-pipe with three sensors, make sure to put the correct sensor into the correct port. Be caul not to overtighten to prevent stripping out the threads of the sensor(s).

4

Light the torch with the striker and heat up one nut on the manifold stud at a time (for the front Y-pipe converter). When the nut is cherry red, place the pneumatic gun, extension, swivel and socket onto it and remove the nut. If the converter is connected to the front pipe, cut the three nuts and bolts with the torch on both sides of the flange, then use the hammer and punch to knock the rest of the bolt out of the flange connection.

5

Cut the two or three nuts and bolts out of the rear flange connection on the converter using the torch. Cut the bolt on both sides of the flange and knock the rest of the bolt from the flange connection using the hammer and a punch. Be caul on the last bolt as the converter will separate from the exhaust system. Put on the gloves and remove the old converter.

6

Install the new catalytic converter starting with the inlet first (closest to the motor). Install the gasket(s) first and then thread on new manifold stud bolts for the Y-pipe converter or replace the nuts and bolts on the converter connected to the front pipe. Use a bolt head and washer on one side and a lock washer and nut on the other side of the flange.

7

Tighten the nuts on the manifold with the gun or tighten the nuts and bolts on the flange connection, using the gun on one side and holding the bolt steady with a hand wrench on the other.

8

Replace the gasket and hardware on the rear connection of the catalytic converter. Place the bolt head and flat washer on one side and the lock washer and nut on the other side of the flange connection. Tighten with the gun on the nut side and hold the bolt head with a hand wrench.

9

Plug the oxygen sensor wire(s) back into the plug(s).

10

Remove the tool cart and any other debris from under the Sonoma, lower the truck and start the engine up. Raise it back up and check for any possible exhaust leaks coming from the manifold, flange or oxygen sensor connections. Tighten as needed.

The mid-size Mazda 6 was in its second generation as of 2010, having grown a bit over the previous generation of the car. There are seven trim models, with the more top-of-the-line variations equipped with niceties like alloy wheels, Bluetooth connectivity and xenon headlights. Most Mazda 6 cars, though, will have halogen bulbs. Exercise caution when changing halogen bulbs, as they are easily damaged if scratched or dropped.

Instructions

High-Beam Headlight

1

Turn off the ignition and the headlights.

2

Open the hood and remove the bolts from the coolant reservoir. Using your wrench, turn the bolts counterclockwise to remove.

3

Disconnect the bulbs electrical connector. Press on the connector tab and pull downward to remove.

4

Turn the bulb socket counterclockwise to remove the bulb. Then insert a new halogen bulb, turning clockwise to install.

5

Re-install the coolant reservoir.

Low-Beam Headlights

6

Turn off the ignition and the headlights.

7

Move the steering wheel to the right if youre replacing the left-hand light and vice-versa.

8

Open the hood and remove the bulbs plastic container screws. Turn counterclockwise to remove the six screws.

9

Turn the bulb cover counterclockwise.

10

Detach the electrical connector of the bulb by pulling it to the rear.

11

Pull downward and away to remove the bulb from the spring.

12

Remove the adapter from the bulb and attach a new bulb onto the adapter.

13

Insert the bulb into the bulb socket, connecting the electrical connections.

14

Insert the bulb cover, fastening the screws clockwise.

A free flow exhaust is a type of system installed in vehicles for increased power and a sporty look. They are designed to remove engine emissions more efficiently than standard exhaust systems.

Purpose

Free flow exhaust systems are designed for looks and increased efficiency and power in vehicles. They are typically made of 100 percent stainless steel, which offers a nice sporty look. They weigh less than standard exhaust systems, which helps account for increased fuel economy and improvement in acceleration.

Process

Exhaust systems are used for removing spent gas from a vehicles engine; theore exhaust systems play a role in engine tuning and performance. A free flow system allows the spent gas to exit the vehicle more efficiently by changing the pipes used in the system and installing an intercooler between the engine and the exhaust.

Benefits

With a free flow exhaust system, a smoother removal of spent gas is offered. Because of this, vehicle owners notice an improvement in the overall way their vehicle runs. These systems promote better gas mileage and increased acceleration as well.

The flashers, also called blinkers or turn signals, as well as the hazard lights on the Ford F-150 pickup truck are all controlled by one simple relay module. If you have a front or rear flasher that isnt working, chances are you need to replace a simple five-pin relay module located on your steering column. The part costs very little, and replacing it will take just a few minutes of your time.

Instructions

1

Use a flat-head screwdriver to gently pry the clam-shell door open. The door is located under the instrument panel on the top of the steering column between the instrument panel and the steering wheel.

2

Remove the door and set it in a safe place.

3

Remove the blue five-pin relay from the column by pulling it gently from the plug.

4

Remove the screw from the top of the relay.

5

Replace the screw on the top of the relay.

6

Replace the relay with the new one (part number F65B-13350-AA). Plug the new relay in where you removed the old one.

7

Close the clam-shell door by lining it up and pressing down until it snaps in place.

The casting numbers on the block of a Ford engine help identify the specific engine. The numbers are often useful in mating cylinder heads, determining when and where the block was manufactured and into which mode of Ford it was installed. Locating the casting number is relatively easy if youre physically fit and have some dexterity. The casting number must be decoded to understand the information it contains.

Instructions

1

Angle your inspection mirror underneath the back side of the engine block, where the starter mounts to the engine. Depending on your physical size -- and the specific year, make and model of your Ford -- observation is possible from the top of the engine well. Another option is jack up the Ford up, support it on two jack stands and look for the numbers from beneath the vehicle.

2

Shine your flashlight on the inspection mirror. Illuminate the section of the block where Ford stamped the casting number. This is directly beside the starter mount, where the starter motor bolts to the engine.

3

Write down the casting number down with pen and paper.

Installation of a new catalytic converter on your Jeep Liberty will improve the engine performance of your Jeep. If the converter becomes plugged it can over heat or limit the engines ability to breathe by limiting the flow of exhaust out of the engine. The converter is an important part of the exhaust system and while they are expensive to replace, they are necessary for the engine to run properly. Be sure to allow the exhaust to cool if the Jeep has been running before you start working on it. The pipe and converter get very hot when the engine is operating.

Instructions

1

Locate the front mounting flange from the front exhaust pipe for the catalytic converter. There are two bolts that secure the flange from the converter to the flange on the pipe.

2

Position the catalytic converter so the two flanges line up, insert the gasket between the flanges and insert the retaining bolts. Install two nuts on the mounting bolts and tighten them with a socket and ratchet or wrench.

3

Insert the mounting rod on the converter into the hanger under the cross member located near the center of the converter. This hanger is a rubber hanger that the mounting rod slides into.

4

Slide the tail pipe onto the output pipe on the rear of the converter and install the band clamp. Tighten the clamp with a socket and ratchet until it is tight but do not over tighten it or you will crush the pipe.

5

Start the engine and check for leaks in the exhaust system. If you find a leak, tighten the clamp or bolts needed to tighten up the pipes and close the leak.

Unsurprisingly, a voltmeter measures the voltage running through any object that has the ability to carry an electrical charge. Generally, voltmeters do not measure solely voltage but come as part of a multi-meter device that can be used to measure other aspects of electrical currents as well, including amps and ohms. If you need to know the voltage of a Delco alternator, you can use the voltmeter component of a multi-meter to take the measurement.

Instructions

1

Find the volt component of the multi-meter. Depending upon the multi-meter, the voltmeter component may have its own ports, or the meter may have one main input and a dial to choose the measurement that you want to take. If the multi-meter has separate ports for measuring volts, you can recognize them from the "V" that marks them. If the multi-meter has only one set of ports, turn the dial to the "V" setting to use the device as a voltmeter.

2

Plug the probes provided with the multi-meter into the appropriate ports. Test the probes by touching the tips together gently. The measurement on the multi-meter screen should not move from "0" or should move into the single digits at most. If it moves more than that, the fuse of the multi-meter is not working properly and should be replaced before testing.

3

Place the black probe of the multi-meter against the negative terminal of the Delco alternator. This terminal stays the same whether you have a negatively or positively charged alternator. It is the screw with the metal arm attached to it.

4

Touch the red probe to the positive terminal on the Delco alternator. In a negatively charged alternator, the positive terminal is the screw that does not have an insulating cover. In a positively charged alternator, the positive terminal is the red wire that stretches between two of the screws.