Fix It

The mid-size Mazda 6 was in its second generation as of 2010, having grown a bit over the previous generation of the car. There are seven trim models, with the more top-of-the-line variations equipped with niceties like alloy wheels, Bluetooth connectivity and xenon headlights. Most Mazda 6 cars, though, will have halogen bulbs. Exercise caution when changing halogen bulbs, as they are easily damaged if scratched or dropped.

Instructions

High-Beam Headlight

1

Turn off the ignition and the headlights.

2

Open the hood and remove the bolts from the coolant reservoir. Using your wrench, turn the bolts counterclockwise to remove.

3

Disconnect the bulbs electrical connector. Press on the connector tab and pull downward to remove.

4

Turn the bulb socket counterclockwise to remove the bulb. Then insert a new halogen bulb, turning clockwise to install.

5

Re-install the coolant reservoir.

Low-Beam Headlights

6

Turn off the ignition and the headlights.

7

Move the steering wheel to the right if youre replacing the left-hand light and vice-versa.

8

Open the hood and remove the bulbs plastic container screws. Turn counterclockwise to remove the six screws.

9

Turn the bulb cover counterclockwise.

10

Detach the electrical connector of the bulb by pulling it to the rear.

11

Pull downward and away to remove the bulb from the spring.

12

Remove the adapter from the bulb and attach a new bulb onto the adapter.

13

Insert the bulb into the bulb socket, connecting the electrical connections.

14

Insert the bulb cover, fastening the screws clockwise.

The Mustang has been one of the most recognizable cars in the United States since Ford introduced it in 1964. Ford brought out a new generation of the Mustang in 2005 and abandoned the Fox-body platform that had been used in the Mustang since the 1970s. The 2010 Ford Mustang came in several coupe and convertible trims, but the alignment specs were the same for all trims. The alignment was not adjustable on the rear end of any 2010 Mustang.

Caster

The caster angle is equivalent to the slope of an imaginary line drawn through the upper and lower ball joints of a wheel. The angle is based on zero being a vertical line straight up from the ground. If the top of the slope passes on the side of the line toward the rear of the vehicle, the vehicle has a positive caster. If the top of the slope passes on the side of vertical toward the front of the vehicle, then the vehicle has a negative caster. The ideal setting for the caster angle is +7.1 degrees but it can range by 0.75 degrees in either direction, with a cross tolerance of 0.75 degrees.

Camber

The camber angle of a wheel is based on the way that the wheel leans when viewed from the front of the vehicle. If the top of the wheel leans out, away from the vehicle, then the wheel has a positive camber. If the top of the wheel leans in, toward the vehicle, then the wheel has a negative camber. The ideal camber setting is -0.75 degrees but it can range by 0.75 degrees in either direction, with a cross tolerance of 0.75 degrees.

Toe-in

The toe of a wheel is based on its angle in relation to the centerline of the vehicle. Most vehicles are designed to be slightly pigeon-toed in order to relieve pressure from the steering axis. This is known as toe-in and is measured in positive degrees or inches. The toe on the 2010 Ford Mustang should be set at +0.2 degrees but it can range by 0.2 degrees in either direction.

Struts are combination devices that perform three important tasks: they suspend the car with a spring, control body roll with shock absorbers and act as the upper suspension control arm. Replacement can be a do-it-yourself procedure provided you have some basic mechanical skills.

Tools

Struts generally come out with a few basic hand tools: sockets, ratchets, wrenches and pliers among them. Youll also need a tire lug wrench and a floor jack. The ball-joint removal tool (sometimes, a "pickle fork") is the only remotely specialized tool you might need to replace the strut, but most applications dont require one.

Basic Procedure

First youll need to lift the applicable corner of the car off of the ground until the wheel dangles in the air. Remove the wheel, then slip the jack under the lower control arm or brake rotor to help lift the arm back into place. Remove the bolt(s) securing the strut to the steering pivot, then remove the three or four bolts under the hood that hold the top of the strut to the cars chassis.

Complications

Youll probably need to remove the brake line from the caliper and any clips that secure it to the strut, which will necessitate a brake-bleeding job afterward. You may also need to remove the brake rotor, brake caliper, steering end links and/or anti-roll bar end-links.

Replacing the hub assembly on the front of your Jeep Cherokee is the only way to service the front wheel bearings. Because the hub assembly is a sealed unit, you cannot repair it without special tools. Replacement units for the Jeep front axles are readily available through most auto parts stores and of course the Jeep dealer network, however. The job can become time consuming, but in the end doing the work yourself can save you a substantial amount of money.

Instructions

1

Locate the hub nut and cotter pin in the center of the front wheel on the side on which you will be working. Remove the cotter pin from the shaft with a pair of needle-nose pliers, then discard it. Place a large socket (generally 36 to 45 mm) on the axle nut, and use a breaker bar to rotate the nut counterclockwise until it loosens.

2

Loosen the lug nuts with a lug wrench, then place a jack under the front of the Jeep. Raise it off the ground, and place a set of jack stands under the front axle to support the Jeep. Remove the wheels, and set them aside for now.

3

Locate the two brake caliper retaining bolts on the top of the brake caliper. Remove the two retaining pins with a socket, then ratchet the lift the caliper off the brake rotor. Support the caliper from the top of the suspension with twine to keep it from hanging on the brake hose.

4

Slide the brake rotor off the hub, and set it aside. Locate the three 12-point bolts on the backside of the steering knuckle that retain the hub to the steering knuckle. Remove all three bolts with a 12-point socket and a ratchet. Set the bolts aside.

5

Remove the axle nut from the axle shaft, and pull the hub out of the steering knuckle and off the axle. If it has rusted to the steering knuckle, use a cold chisel and hammer to work around the edge of the hub, separating it a little at a time. It will come out with enough persistence.

6

Clean the interior surface of the steering knuckle with some break clearer and a clean rag then coat it with some anti seize compound. Slide a new hub over the axle shaft and into the steering knuckle. Install the three 12-point retaining bolts from the back of the knuckle and into the hub. Tighten the bolts, drawing the hub completely into the knuckle.

7

Slide the rotor onto the new hub and wheel studs, then position the brake caliper on the rotor. Install the retaining pins into the caliper, and tighten them with a socket and ratchet.

8

Install the axle unit onto the axle shaft, and tighten it until snug. Torque the three 12-point bolts to 75 foot-lbs. with a torque wrench. Install the tire on the hub, and tighten the lug nuts until snug.

9

Raise the front of the Jeep off the jack stands, then remove the stands from under the axle. Lower the jack, setting the Jeep on the ground, and tighten the lug nuts the rest of the way with a lug wrench.

10

Tighten the axle nut to 175 foot-lbs. with a torque wrench, and install a new cotter pin in the end of the axle shaft, bending the legs over with a pair of pliers to hold it in place.