Fix It

The first thing you can do to replace the catalytic converter in your Toyota Tercel is forget about the cheaper universal fit catalytic converter at the auto parts stores. Although this may seemingly save you money for the part, youre going to have to buy adapters or figure out how to make that universal fit converter fit like a direct fit converter. A direct fit converter for a Tercel will have a two-point flange on either side and will do just as its label describes: fit directly. In the long run it will save you time, money, and will work better for your Tercel since it was specifically designed for it.

Instructions

1

Lift the Toyota Tercel on a car lift all the way up.

2

Put on the cutting glasses, and light the acetylene torch using a striker. Cut the bolts and nuts from the catalytic converter from the flange(s) on the converter side. This way you will not incur damage to the flanges bolted to the converter flanges. Cut the bolt heads (with the torch) or the nuts flush to the converter flange.

3

Turn the torch off, switch over to safety glasses, and knock out the bolts from the converter side of the flanges using the hammer and a long stemmed punch. If they do not punch through, you may need to relight the torch and cut into the bolt hole a little deeper.

4

Remove the old converter.

5

Pick the old gaskets off of the pipe flanges on both side using a pick or awl.

6

Clean the surface of the flat part of the pipe flanges on both sides using an angled die grinder with a sanding disk.

7

Place the new gaskets onto the small pipe outlet protruding from the pipe flanges.

8

Check the exhaust flow of the new catalytic converter. It will be stamped on the shell or shields of the converter and be easy to see. There will be an arrow pointing in the direction of the exhaust flow or an A and B marking. A would indicate towards the front of the motor, and B would indicate towards the back of the Tercel.

9

Attach the converter flanges to the pipe flanges and place the bolts into the flanges (in any direction) in this fashion: bolt head with a flat washer through the flanges, then a lock washer and nut.

10

Tighten the bolts and nuts holding one end with a wrench and tightening with an air ratchet. Tighten each bolt a little bit, switch to the next one, and continue this pattern until all four nuts and bolts have seated the flanges tight together.

11

Remove tools and lower the Tercel on the lift. Start it up, raise it up again, and check for any possible leaks coming from the flange connections. If so, tighten the bolts some more.

The water pump in a 1990 Ford F-150 Lariat keeps the engine cool by circulating water and coolant throughout the engine. A malfunctioning water pump can cause the engines temperature to increase, even when the radiator has sufficient coolant. This may eventually result in permanent damage to the engine. The pump attaches to the timing chain cover on the front of the engine block. You will need to drain the cooling system when replacing the pump.

Instructions

1

Position a sealable container under the radiator drain hole and remove the drain plug. Wait for the coolant to drain into the container. Seal the container for later use. Replace the drain plug.

2

Remove the mounting bolts for the cooling fan shroud with a socket wrench. Disconnect the shroud from the radiator. Detach the radiator hose, bypass hose and heater hose from the water pump. Disconnect the drive belt and the cooling fan assembly, including the fan spacer and pulley.

3

Remove the alternator mounting bolts with a socket wrench, and move the alternator out of the way to access the water pump. You may also need to remove the power steering pump bracket if the vehicle is so equipped. Disconnect the mounting bolts for the water pump and detach the pump from the timing chain cover. Discard the water pump gasket.

4

Apply a thin layer of sealer to the new gasket. Install the new pump and gasket to the timing chain cover. Tighten the mounting bolts for the water pump to 18 foot-pounds with a torque wrench.

5

Repeat steps two and three in reverse order to complete the installation of the new water pump. Replace the coolant in the radiator.

The flashers, also called blinkers or turn signals, as well as the hazard lights on the Ford F-150 pickup truck are all controlled by one simple relay module. If you have a front or rear flasher that isnt working, chances are you need to replace a simple five-pin relay module located on your steering column. The part costs very little, and replacing it will take just a few minutes of your time.

Instructions

1

Use a flat-head screwdriver to gently pry the clam-shell door open. The door is located under the instrument panel on the top of the steering column between the instrument panel and the steering wheel.

2

Remove the door and set it in a safe place.

3

Remove the blue five-pin relay from the column by pulling it gently from the plug.

4

Remove the screw from the top of the relay.

5

Replace the screw on the top of the relay.

6

Replace the relay with the new one (part number F65B-13350-AA). Plug the new relay in where you removed the old one.

7

Close the clam-shell door by lining it up and pressing down until it snaps in place.

If your Saturn is experiencing failing fuel injectors, you may want to consider using a better quality gasoline. Symptoms of faulty fuel injectors include jerking movements while driving and loud knocking sounds upon acceleration. You will need to know how to properly relieve the fuel systems pressure before performing this repair procedure. Unless otherwise noted, some steps do not require tools.

Instructions

Removing the Fuel Rail and Fuel Injectors

1

Relieve the fuel system pressure by removing the fuel cap.

2

Disconnect the negative cable from the battery with a wrench.

3

Remove the vacuum hose from the fuel pressure regulator on the fuel rail. Unbolt the two mounting bolts with a socket wrench then remove the regulator.

4

Disconnect the air intake duct by detaching the connector from the intake air temperature sensor then removing the PCV hose from the duct. Unscrew and remove the hose clamps with a flat head screwdriver at both ends of the duct.

5

Remove the EVAP canister purge hose and loosen the clamp for the coolant hose from the hose guide. Remove the hose guide and separate the PCV hose from the valve cover. Set aside the hoses.

6

Unscrew and remove the two nuts from the fuel rail mounting studs with the socket wrench. Remove the engine wiring harness cover from the valve cover and push it aside.

7

Remove the fuel supply and return lines from the fuel rail by unscrewing the two line fittings with an open-end wrench. Take out the O-rings in the holes and discard them.

8

Unplug the connectors from the fuel injectors by pulling on their locks.

9

Unscrew and remove the two fuel rail mounting nuts with the socket wrench.

10

Pull out the fuel rail/injector assembly.

11

Free the injector retainers from the small lugs on both sides with a flat head screwdriver. Pull each injector out.

Installing the New Fuel Injectors

12

Install the new fuel injectors and secure them onto the fuel rail by fastening the retainers back onto the side lugs.

13

Lubricate the O-rings on each end of the injectors with clean engine oil. Insert the fuel rail/injector assembly back into the intake manifold.

14

Install the fuel rail mounting nuts and torque them to 89 inch-pounds with a torque wrench.

15

Reconnect each electrical connector to the fuel injectors. Check to make sure they are securely locked on by slightly wiggling them.

16

Insert the new O-rings into the fuel line holes. Install the supply and return fuel lines onto the fuel rail and tightly screw on their fittings with the open-end wrench.

17

Position the engine wiring harness cover onto the valve cover. Tighten the mounting nuts over the studs with the socket wrench.

18

Follow Steps 4 and 5 in Section 1 to reconnect the EVAP and PCV hoses and the air duct.

19

Install the fuel pressure regulator onto the fuel rail and tighten its two mounting bolts with the socket wrench. Reattach the vacuum hose to the regulator.

20

Reconnect the negative cable onto the battery with the wrench. Replace the fuel cap.

21

Start your Saturn and check for any fuel leaks.

An FXST is a kind of Harley-Davidson motorcycle. F means "big engine motorcycle" and X indicates "sport." The original FX in 1971 was assembled from F and X parts. "ST" stands for "Softail," which is a suspension system without visible shock absorbers. This bike was manufactured before 2007 because starting in that year all new Harleys came equipped with fuel injection. The carburetor, or carb, is a constant-velocity Keihin carb and it is easily replaced in one lazy afternoon.

Instructions

1

Put the motorcycle in neutral and ensure the petcock is closed. Start and run the motorcycle until it coughs to a stop. Attempt to restart the motorcycle to ensure that the carburetor is completely out of gasoline.

2

Reach under the fuel tank, just in front of your left knee, and unclip the enrichener knob. Let the knob and cable hang free.

3

Loosen the air cleaner cover bolts. The air cleaner is between the cylinders and the original cleaner is either round or elliptical depending on the year of your FXST. Remove the bolts using either a Torx or Allen socket, depending on the year of your bike and whether you have already replaced this cover, and a socket wrench.

4

Pull out the two breather tubes that plug into the body of your air cleaner and let them hang free.

5

Unbolt and remove the air cleaner, which contains a metal or paper filter, using either a Torx or an Allen socket and a socket wrench.

6

Loosen the fuel line hose clamp with a flat-head screwdriver and pull this tube from the body of the carburetor.

7

Follow both throttle cables from the throttle to the carburetor throttle cam. Mark the front and back cables with masking tape and a pen, then unscrew and disconnect both cables. Let those cables hang free.

8

Unbolt and remove the air cleaner backing plate with an Allen socket and a socket wrench.

9

Rock the carburetor from side to side and pull it out of the black, rubber boot that connects the carburetor to the intake manifold. Gently pull the enrichener assembly through the engine and remove the carburetor and enrichener assembly as a unit.

10

Unscrew and remove the enrichener cable from the back of the old carburetor. Screw the enrichener cable assembly into the same location on the back of the replacement carburetor. Hand-tighten the plastic cable sealing cap.

11

Snake the enrichener knob and cable through the engine under the fuel tank. Seat the new carburetor in the intake manifold boot.

12

Replace the air cleaner backing plate with an Allen socket and socket wrench. This is the plate that actually holds the carb to the engine.

13

Replace both throttle cables on the throttle cam exactly as they were when you started. Remove the masking tape.

14

Replace the air cleaner and the air cleaner cover using either a Torx or an Allen socket and a socket wrench. Re-secure the enrichener knob into the clip on the left side of the motorcycle.

15

Replace the breather tubes. Start the bike to ensure it runs before replacing the air cleaner cover.

16

Replace the air cleaner cover using a Torx or Allen socket and socket wrench.

Replacing glow plugs in the Jeep Libertys 2.8-liter diesel engine is similar to changing spark plugs except there is no firing order to worry about. The glow plugs thread into the cylinder head just below the intake manifold on your Liberty and have a single wire connected to the top, providing seven volts of electricity to the plug. The plug heats up the cylinders on your diesel engine to allow faster start-ups when the engine is cold.

Instructions

1

Open the hood of your Liberty and locate the negative battery cable on the top of the battery. The battery sits on the drivers side of the engine compartment, right behind the drivers-side headlight assembly. Loosen the clamp bolt on the cable end with a wrench and remove the cable from the battery, isolating it from the terminals while you are working.

2

Locate the glow plug in question on the side of the cylinder head. The cylinder head is at the top of the engine assembly, running front to back along the engine block. Grasp the wire at the top of the glow plug at the boot and pull it straight off the plug. Lay the wire aside.

3

Place a socket over the glow plug, attach a ratchet, and turn the plug counterclockwise. Pull the plug out of the cylinder and discard it.

4

Caully insert the new glow plug in the cylinder head. Tighten the glow plug to 110 inch-pounds with a torque wrench. Snap the wiring harness connector onto the top of the glow plug. Repeat the process for the remaining glow plugs until you have replaced all that are defective.

5

Install the negative battery cable on the negative battery terminal. Tighten the clamp bolt with a wrench, making sure it is secure. Do not over-tighten it or you may damage the cable end or terminal. Close the hood of your Jeep.

The Accord is a mid-size car manufactured by Honda since 1976 and is still in production as of 2010. The 1990 model has a four-cylinder, 2.2L engine with electronic fuel injection. This requires the fuel pump to deliver fuel to the injectors under high pressure. The fuel pump in the 1990 Honda Accord attaches directly to the fuel tank, so you must disconnect the fuel tank to replace the fuel pump.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the cable to the negative terminal of the battery with a socket wrench, and loosen the filler cap for the fuel tank. Locate the fuel pressure release valve on the fuel rail. Hold the banjo bolt for the release valve with a 6 mm closed wrench. Wrap a shop rag around the service bolt on top of the banjo bolt. Loosen the service bolt by one complete turn with an open-end wrench to relieve the pressure in the fuel system. Tighten the service bolt to 9 foot-pounds with a torque wrench.

2

Block the front wheels and raise the rear of the vehicle on jack stands. Loosen the drain bolt of the fuel tank and drain the fuel into a container approved for gasoline. Slide the clamps on the fuel hoses back and disconnect the fuel hoses from the fuel tank. Support the fuel tank with a floor jack and remove the nuts on the fuel tank retaining straps with a socket wrench. Lower the floor jack and remove the fuel tank from the vehicle. Disconnect the mounting bolts for the fuel pump with a socket wrench and remove the fuel pump from the fuel tank.

3

Install the new fuel pump onto the fuel tank ensuring that you seat it into its proper position. Tighten the mounting bolts evenly to a torque of 48 inch-pounds with a torque wrench. Connect the fuel tank and tighten the nuts on the restraining strap to 27 foot-pounds with a torque wrench.

4

Remove the service bolt on the fuel pressure regulator on the fuel rail. Disconnect the hose from the fuel pressure regulator and plug the open end of the hose. Attach a fuel pressure gauge to the pressure regulator.

5

Start the engine and note the reading on the fuel pressure gauge while the engine is idling. The fuel pressure in a 1990 Honda Accord should be in the range of 36 to 41 psi. Check for a clogged or pinched fuel return hose if the pressure is too high. Look for leaks in the fuel line, a faulty pressure regulator or a clogged fuel filter if the pressure is too low.

6

Wrap a shop rag around the fitting for the pressure gauge. Loosen the fitting slowly, until you can remove the pressure gauge. Place new washers on the service bolt and tighten it to 9 foot-pounds with a torque wrench.

A faulty drain cock or petcock on a 2007 Jeep Liberty could result in a radiator leak, an overheated engine and costly repairs. The petcock is a small valve located on the lower left side of the radiator. The petcock threads into the face of the radiator tank and replacing it is a fairly simple task that requires few tools. Make sure to drain the radiator before you remove the petcock to avoid spilling coolant.

Instructions

1

Open the hood of your Jeep and remove the radiator cap from the radiator. Set the cap aside then slide a jack under the front axle and raise the Jeep off the ground. Place a set of jack stands under the Jeep to support it.

2

Slide a section of rubber tubing onto the drain cock and place a drain pan below it. Open the drain cock with a wrench and allow the coolant to drain from the system. Spin the drain cock out of the radiator with a wrench and thread the new on in place, tightening it with the wrench. Make sure the drain is closed.

3

Raise the front of the Jeep off the jack stands then remove the stands from under the truck. Remove the drain pan from under the truck and lower the truck to the ground.

4

Fill the radiator with coolant then place the cap on the radiator. Open the pressure bottle and fill it with coolant until it reaches the full line on the bottle. Start the engine and turn the heat selector to on. Allow the Jeep to run until it reaches normal operating temperature, about five to 10 minutes.

5

Recheck the coolant level in the pressure bottle and add coolant until it reaches the full mark again. Continue checking and filling the bottle until the level no longer falls with the engine running.

6

Recheck the coolant level after several days of normal driving. Add additional coolant as needed at that time.

The PCV, or positive crankcase ventilation valve, on the 3.0-liter engine in your Ford Taurus requires attention from time to time. As the valve gets old, it will allow oil and vapors from inside the engine to leak out. The PCV system removes excess pressure and unburned gases from inside the engine, recirculating the gases through the engine to be burned and expelled out of the exhaust. This decreases the emissions from the tailpipe and allows your car to run cleaner.

Instructions

1

Open the hood of your Taurus and locate the PCV valve on the top of the valve cover. The PCV valve looks like an L-shaped fitting plugged into the top of the valve cover and has a large hose attached to it.

2

Grasp the PCV valve and pull it straight out of the valve cover grommet. Grasp the hose on the end of the valve and separate it from the valve. Lay the hose aside for now.

3

Discard the old PCV valve, then insert the end of the new valve into the end of the rubber vacuum hose that you removed from the old valve. You may need to twist it a little to get it to slide in place.

4

Push the new PCV valve into the grommet on the top of the valve cover. Make sure it seats completely in the grommet so oil does not blow past it. Close the hood.

There are two oxygen sensors integrated into the exhaust system of the 2001 Saturn SL. The sensors help the 1.9-liter four-cylinder engine generate an ideal fuel-to-air ratio for optimum emissions. One sensor is located near the manifold and monitors this mixture. If the mixture becomes compromised (too much air makes the mix too lean; too much fuel makes the mix too rich), the sensor transmits a trouble code to the computer in the car. The rear sensor monitors the efficiency of the catalytic converter, which filters the harmful exhaust gases and converts them into less-harmful emissions.

Instructions

Upstream Sensor

1

Start the engine of the Saturn on a level ground for at least five minutes to warm the engine. This will help expand the metal of the manifold and sensor junction. Be caul and dont let it run too long, because it wont take long for the manifold and sensor to get hot enough to burn you.

2

Open the hood and locate the upstream sensor at the bottom of the manifold in the front of the engine. Disconnect the wire harness plug connection.

3

Spray penetrating lubricant along the threads of the sensor where it screws into the manifold and allow it to soak in for a few minutes.

4

Place the socket onto the ratchet and place the sensor wire into the slot of the socket (or feed the wire through the box end of a 22mm wrench) and turn the sensor counterclockwise to remove it from the manifold.

5

Inspect the new sensor before inserting it into the port hole in the manifold. Most quality aftermarket sensors have a light coat of high-temperature anti-seize compound on the threads of the sensor. If there is none on the threads, apply a very light coat to the threads only. Avoid getting any on the sensor itself.

6

Thread the sensor into the manifold porthole by hand, then tighten snugly. Do not over-tighten the sensor or youll strip the few threads it has and will ruin it. Plug the wire from the new sensor back into the wire-harness connector.

Downstream Sensor

7

Park the Saturn on a hard, level surface and then apply the parking brake (after warming the engine for five minutes; again, this will expand the metal of the exhaust pipe and sensor junction). Use the vehicle jack to lift the front of the Saturn, one front quarter panel at a time, high enough to place a jack stand under each front frame rail.

8

Put on safety glasses and crawl underneath the Saturn with the remaining items.

9

Locate the downstream sensor near the catalytic converter (in the center of the undercarriage under the front seats of the passenger cab).

10

Disconnect the wire-harness connection, then spray the threads with penetrating lubricant. Allow a few minutes to let the spray soak in. Use the ratchet and socket or 22mm wrench as described in Step 4 of Section 1 to remove the sensor from the exhaust piping.

11

Insert the new sensor (again making sure it has a light coat of high-temperature anti-seize compound on the thread section only) into the porthole of the exhaust pipe, and tighten snugly. Reconnect the wire of the sensor to the harness plug connection.

The air filter in the 2003 Ford Focus PZEV 2.3L is different from a standard filter. A standard filter is a small paper cartridge that is placed inside an air filter assembly. The Focus PZEV -- which stands for "partial zero emissions vehicle" -- uses an air filter box with a special nonserviceable foam element inside. In order to replace this filter, you have to replace the entire box, which is fairly expensive. But you should only have to replace the filter every 150,000 miles.

Instructions

1

Lift the hood of the Focus and prop it open.

2

Locate the air filter box. It is the large black box just behind the left headlight.

3

Unbolt the air filter box from the air intake hose using the socket wrench and socket.

4

Remove the air filter box from the engine bay and place the new one in its place.

5

Connect the new air filter box to the air intake hose and bolt it into place.

The evaporator core, or heater core in a 2003 Dodge van is a radiator that contains hot coolant. The coolant circulates through the heater core when the heater is turned on, warming the interior of the van.

Instructions

1

Remove the negative battery cable with a socket wrench, and wait two minutes. This allows the capacitor in the airbag system to discharge, and prevents the airbag from deploying. Discharge the rigerant in the air conditioning system, and detach evaporators suction line jumper.

2

Remove the mounting screws that attach the heater to the air conditioning unit with a socket wrench. Push the mounting bracket and rigerant lines out of the way to gain access to the heater.

3

Detach the wiring harnesses for the fin sensing cycling clutch switch, blower motor resistor and blower motor relay. Cover the alternator with a shop cloth to prevent coolant from spilling on it. Drain the coolant in the radiator into a clean container for later use.

4

Disconnect the coolant hoses from the heater with a socket wrench. Remove the right headlight assembly, support assembly for the right radiator core, support panel for the right cowl grille and the grille panel. Disconnect the screws that attach the heater housing to the blower motor housing.

5

Disconnect the door motor link from the distribution duct in the passenger compartment. Use a socket wrench to remove the nuts in the glove compartment that fasten the heater to the dashboard.

6

Remove the stamped nut in the engine compartment that connects the heater housing to the dashboard with a socket wrench. Detach the heater housing from the housing for the blower motor. Pull the heater housing from the dashboard so that the door link clears the hole in the dash panel. Remove the heater housing from the vehicle.

7

Remove the pivot shaft nut from the blend-air door of the heater housing with a socket wrench. Pivot shaft nut. Detach the mounting flange boot and lever from the blend-air door. Disconnect the motor relay and its mounting bracket from the high-speed blower motor on the heater housing. Disconnect the screws from the top cover of the heater housing with a socket wrench, and remove the cover.

8

Remove the screw that fastens the tube support bracket for the heater core to the mounting boss. Remove the heater core from its housing.

9

Place the new heater core into its housing, and fasten its support bracket to the mounting boss with the retaining screw. Tighten the screw to 20 inch-pounds with a torque wrench.

10

Complete the installation of the new heater core by performing steps two through seven in reverse order. Attach the suction line jumper for the evaporator, and charge the air conditioner with rigerant. Connect the cable for the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench.

Replacing a taillight bulb in your Pontiac Montana will only take you a few minutes. It is a simple project yet critically important. If the taillight bulbs are not functioning, traffic behind you will not know when you are stopping or turning, causing an unsafe situation that may cause an accident. The 3057 bulbs used in the Montana taillights are readily available at any auto parts stores and are often sold in pairs just in case you need two.

Instructions

1

Open the rear lift gate on your Montana and locate the three screws along the top and side of the taillight assembly. The screws are Torx head, and are tucked between the plastic taillight and the rubber seal around the lift gate opening.

2

Remove the three Torx head screws with a Torx head screwdriver and set them aside. Grasp the taillight assembly on the sides and pull it straight back, away from the body. Turn the assembly so that the lens is facing down and locate the bulb holder on the rear. Remove the holder by pressing the four locking tabs on the holder.

3

Separate the bulb holder and the assembly, setting the assembly aside. Locate the defective bulb, grasp it by the bulb top, and pull it out of the holder. Discard the old bulb and replace it with a new 3057 bulb by pushing the bulb into the bulb holder until it seats.

4

Position the bulb holder on the rear of the taillight assembly and snap it in to place, ensuring that all four tabs engage properly. Position the taillight assembly on the van and install the retaining screws along the inboard edge of the assembly. Tighten them with a Torx screwdriver.

5

Move to the opposite side of the van and repeat the process if the opposite light has a bulb out. Close the lift gate and test the lights by turning the headlight switch on or stepping on the brake pedal.

Replacing the washer fluid pump in a 1998 Pontiac Grand Prix can help increase visibility through your windshield. The process of replacing the pump should take no more than a half-hour, and you can purchase the tools and materials your need at an auto parts store.

Instructions

1

Open the hood. Remove the washer fluid tank bolts with a 3/8-inch drive ratchet and socket.

2

Pull the entire washer bottle assembly out from under the hood. Detach the hoses from the bottle. Do this gently, so as not to stretch or rip the lines.

3

Remove the old washer fluid pump by pulling it upward toward the top of the washer fluid bottle. The pump is locked in place by the washer fluid bottle itself.

4

Install the new washer fluid pump onto the bottle.

5

Reinstall the washer fluid bottle hoses. Reattach the washer fluid reservoir to the vehicle.

Valve lifters are the actuators that open and close the valves on top of the engine, allowing the appropriate quantity of air into the cylinder. As with most moving parts under strain inside an engine; dirt, heat and friction take their toll over time, and the lifter will become worn, degrading its performance, and increasing the possibility of damaging other components.

Instructions

1

Remove the intake manifold and valve covers. Set them aside and take note of how all the bolts were positioned. Looking down into the engine, you should now be able to see the heads of the valves. But the push-rod will be passing over the top, preventing you from removing them.

2

Remove the rocker arms and push-rods. With all the upper hardware on the engine disassembled, the cylinder head can be unbolted and lifted off the rest of the engine, giving you access to the tappets below. With the tappets released and removed, the lifters are accessible and ready to be removed.

3

Grip the heads of the lifters with the needle-nose pliers and caully lift them up and out of their respective recesses. Lower the new lifters into the hole and replace the tappets. The tightness of the tappets is a trial and error process for mechanics who lack professional measuring equipment, so you may need to adjust them after the engine has been rebuilt. If the engine runs roughly, they need to be loosened. If they make a tapping noise, they need to be tightened.

4

Replace the push-rods, rocker arms, valve covers and intake manifold, ensuring all bolts are properly tightened. Start the engine and allow it to run for five minutes, then stop it and make the necessary tappet adjustments. Repeat until the engine is running smoothly, allowing it to cool for several minutes between each run.

The license plate light bulb on a 2002 GMC Envoy is directly above the rear license plate inside a small, plastic housing and comes on when the headlights are on. At night, the light bulb illuminates the license plate information. In many states, it is illegal to drive a vehicle with a burned-out license plate light bulb. A replacement light bulb can be found in any store that sells automotive parts. Replacing the light bulb is very easy and should be done as soon as you discover the light bulb is burned out.

Instructions

1

Shut off the engine and make sure the vehicle is in park. Apply the parking brake.

2

Use a Phillips head screwdriver to remove the two screws securing the license plate light assembly to the tailgate. Put the screws in a secure place.

3

Gently pull the light assembly out of the tailgate to expose the light bulb. Pull the faulty light bulb out of the socket and discard it.

4

Push the new light bulb into the socket and make sure it is tight. Reposition the light assembly on the tailgate and secure it with the two screws. Tighten the screws; do not overtighten.

5

Turn on the headlights to make sure the license plate light bulb illuminates.

The 2003 BMW 330 is a rear wheel drive sedan that uses independent suspension setups on all four wheels. The independent suspension relies on struts to absorb bumps in the road. However, these struts wear out like any other automotive components, and the stock OEM struts need to be replaced every 60,000 miles. Replacing the struts yourself can save you a lot of money and should only take a day for most people to do.

Instructions

1

Park the 2003 BMW 330 somewhere flat with a lot of room to the sides. Also make sure that you are not blocking anyone in as the car will be stuck in place until the struts are all changed out. Put it in "Park" and then turn the sedan off. Jack up the car by sliding a car jack under the jack points at each corner. When a corner is elevated, slide in a jack stand to keep the car up. Once the car is fully elevated, remove the wheels from the 330 with your tire iron.

2

Unbolt the sway bar linkages from both the front and the rear wheels. The sway bars help keep the car from wallowing in the corners by connecting opposite side control arms. The bars are held to the bottom of the car by bushing mounts, but all you need to do is unbolt the ends of the bars from the bottom control arms. Rotate the ends of the sway bars down so that they are out of the way.

3

Unbolt the single bottom retaining bolt on the front right strut. Use a breaker bar to wedge the bolt out as it will be firmly stuck in. Then unbolt the top three bolts at the top of the strut and use the breaker bar to wedge the entire strut out. Be caul to support the strut so that it does not fall. Then bolt in the top of the new strut into the 330s frame. Once it is supported, raise the steering knuckle up and bolt in the bottom of the strut. Repeat this process on the left front wheel as well.

4

Fold down the rear seat of the 300 and pull off the plastic tab over the top of the struts. Unbolt the bolt underneath for the right rear, and then go to the right rear wheel well and unbolt the bottom of the bolt from the hub assembly. Pry the strut out with the breaker bar and place it to the side. Bolt in the new strut and then repeat the process on the left side. Replace the plastic tabs and then fold the back seat back up.

5

Bolt the sway bars back into place and then put the wheels back on the 330. Lower the 330 off the stands and then look at the corners to make sure the struts are supporting the cars weight.

The oxygen sensors in a 1996 Ford Explorer gauge the amount of unburned oxygen present in the exhaust system. A signal is sent to the engine management computer. The unburned oxygen relates to the fuel mixture, and the computer makes continuous adjustments as a result of these signals. There are always at least two sensors on each exhaust system. If the vehicle has dual exhaust, it will have four sensors.

Instructions

1

Connect the code scanner cable end to the OBD port under the dash on the left side of the steering column. The scanner is needed to determine which sensor is defective. Turn the ignition key to the "Run" or "On" position.

2

Press the key marked "Read." The computer will display a five-digit code. Record this code. Cross-erence this code with the code sheet that accompanies the code scanner to identify the faulty sensor. Turn the key off.

3

Raise the vehicle with the floor jack and place jack stands under the frame. Lower the vehicle onto the jack stands. Disconnect the electrical connector from the faulty sensor. If the code indicated that the number 1 sensor is faulty, it will be the one between the engine and the converter. If the number 2 sensor is faulty, it will be the sensor on or behind the converter.

4

Remove the faulty sensor using the 7/8-inch wrench. Turn the sensor counterclockwise to remove it.

5

Install the new sensor and tighten with the wrench. Connect the electrical connector. Lower the vehicle with the floor jack.

The PT Cruiser is a compact car with retro styling made by Chrysler from 2000 to 2010. The 2001 model has a pump that circulates water and coolant throughout the engine compartment to keep the engine cool while it is running. The water pump in a 2001 PT Cruiser is a mechanical belt-driven pump that receives its power from the engine. The replacement of the the water pump in a 2002 PT cruiser also requires you to drain the cooling system.

Instructions

1

Allow the car to sit overnight to ensure the engine is cool. Place a container under the radiator and open the drain cock of the radiator. Wait for the coolant in the radiator to drain into the container. Replace the radiator drain cock.

2

Disconnect the cable to the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench to ensure that you dont start the engine inadvertently. Remove the timing belt and sprockets for the camshaft. Disconnect the cover for the rear timing belt.

3

Remove the mounting bolts for the water pump with a socket wrench, and disconnect the water pump. Discard the old O-rings for the water pump.

4

Apply a thin layer of dielectric grease to the new O-ring. Place the new O-ring into the groove for the water pump, and ensure that the O-ring is properly seated. Install the new water pump and tighten the mounting bolts for the water pump to 105 inch lbs. with a torque wrench.

5

Connect the cover for the route timing belt with a socket wrench. Attach the sprockets for the camshaft and install the timing belt. Connect the cable to the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench. Fill the radiator with coolant and start the engine. Check the cooling system for leaks and repair as necessary.

The Toyota Previa muffler is not a hard one to replace. The hardest part might be locating the correct muffler for the year and model Previa you have. In other words, whether its a DX model Previa or an LE model Previa. Choosing the brand of muffler may be another challenge and then finding the availability of one. Toyota will have one for about $350 plus shipping. However you can find one in the aftermarket world for less than half of that with the same kind of warranty and shipped to you just as quickly. Bosal is a fine import aftermarket exhaust system manufacturer and you can purchase or order them through many local parts stores or find them online. Just make sure you have all the information about our Previa before you do.

Instructions

1

Lift the Previa all the way up on a car lift.

2

Locate the flange connection of the muffler inlet pipe just forward of the rear axle.

3

Put on cutting glasses and gloves and light the torch. Cut the two bolts on the muffler side of the flange connection until they are melted or cut below the flange itself. Turn off the torch.

4

Strike the muffler side of the flange with a hammer to separate the two flanges. If you have to, use the punch and hammer to knock out the cut bolts through the other flange. Once the separation of the flanges are complete, switch over to the safety glasses so you can see better.

5

Remove the muffler hangers (front and rear) from the rubber hangers on the frame of the Previa. Discard the old muffler.

6

Clean any remnants of the old gasket off of the pipe flange where you cut the muffler from using the gasket scraper.

7

Install the new muffler in the same manner you removed the old one. Place the rubber hangers on the frame onto the muffler hangers to hold it in place for you. The rear axle will hold the inlet pipe in place.

8

Insert the new gasket and connect the new muffler flange to the pipe flange. Connect with the 10 millimeter hardware placing the flat washer on the bolt head side of the flange and the lock washer and nut on the other side.

9

Secure the bolt head in place with the box wrench and tighten the nut with the gun and socket. Tighten one side snug. Then bring in the other side. Do not tighten one side securely first and then the other, or you may kink the gasket.

10

Lower the Previa and start it up to check for any leaks at the flange connection.