Fix It

Park the vehicle on a flat and level surface, turn off the engine and engage the emergency brake.

Feel the top of the hood. If it is still hot wait about 20 minutes before beginning the installation.

Place a blanket on the ground beneath the front end. Lie on the blanket and slide under the car so that you can see the back of the bumper where one of the fog lights is attached. Locate the wiring harness plugged into the rear of the fog light socket. Squeeze the sides of the harness plug and pull it free.

Use an adjustable wrench to remove the three mounting bolts securing the fog light assembly to the front bumper. Slide the assembly out of the bumper.

Insert the new fog light and secure it with the bolts that came with the kit. Connect the wiring harness with the socket. Move to the other side of the vehicle and repeat the process to install the other fog light.

Lift the hood of the Focus and prop it open.

Locate the air filter box. It is the large black box just behind the left headlight.

Unbolt the air filter box from the air intake hose using the socket wrench and socket.

Remove the air filter box from the engine bay and place the new one in its place.

Connect the new air filter box to the air intake hose and bolt it into place.

Remove the negative battery cable with a socket wrench, and wait two minutes. This allows the capacitor in the airbag system to discharge, and prevents the airbag from deploying. Discharge the rigerant in the air conditioning system, and detach evaporators suction line jumper.

Remove the mounting screws that attach the heater to the air conditioning unit with a socket wrench. Push the mounting bracket and rigerant lines out of the way to gain access to the heater.

Detach the wiring harnesses for the fin sensing cycling clutch switch, blower motor resistor and blower motor relay. Cover the alternator with a shop cloth to prevent coolant from spilling on it. Drain the coolant in the radiator into a clean container for later use.

Disconnect the coolant hoses from the heater with a socket wrench. Remove the right headlight assembly, support assembly for the right radiator core, support panel for the right cowl grille and the grille panel. Disconnect the screws that attach the heater housing to the blower motor housing.

Disconnect the door motor link from the distribution duct in the passenger compartment. Use a socket wrench to remove the nuts in the glove compartment that fasten the heater to the dashboard.

Remove the stamped nut in the engine compartment that connects the heater housing to the dashboard with a socket wrench. Detach the heater housing from the housing for the blower motor. Pull the heater housing from the dashboard so that the door link clears the hole in the dash panel. Remove the heater housing from the vehicle.

Remove the pivot shaft nut from the blend-air door of the heater housing with a socket wrench. Pivot shaft nut. Detach the mounting flange boot and lever from the blend-air door. Disconnect the motor relay and its mounting bracket from the high-speed blower motor on the heater housing. Disconnect the screws from the top cover of the heater housing with a socket wrench, and remove the cover.

Remove the screw that fastens the tube support bracket for the heater core to the mounting boss. Remove the heater core from its housing.

Place the new heater core into its housing, and fasten its support bracket to the mounting boss with the retaining screw. Tighten the screw to 20 inch-pounds with a torque wrench.

Complete the installation of the new heater core by performing steps two through seven in reverse order. Attach the suction line jumper for the evaporator, and charge the air conditioner with rigerant. Connect the cable for the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench.

Park the 2003 BMW 330 somewhere flat with a lot of room to the sides. Also make sure that you are not blocking anyone in as the car will be stuck in place until the struts are all changed out. Put it in "Park" and then turn the sedan off. Jack up the car by sliding a car jack under the jack points at each corner. When a corner is elevated, slide in a jack stand to keep the car up. Once the car is fully elevated, remove the wheels from the 330 with your tire iron.

Unbolt the sway bar linkages from both the front and the rear wheels. The sway bars help keep the car from wallowing in the corners by connecting opposite side control arms. The bars are held to the bottom of the car by bushing mounts, but all you need to do is unbolt the ends of the bars from the bottom control arms. Rotate the ends of the sway bars down so that they are out of the way.

Unbolt the single bottom retaining bolt on the front right strut. Use a breaker bar to wedge the bolt out as it will be firmly stuck in. Then unbolt the top three bolts at the top of the strut and use the breaker bar to wedge the entire strut out. Be caul to support the strut so that it does not fall. Then bolt in the top of the new strut into the 330s frame. Once it is supported, raise the steering knuckle up and bolt in the bottom of the strut. Repeat this process on the left front wheel as well.

Fold down the rear seat of the 300 and pull off the plastic tab over the top of the struts. Unbolt the bolt underneath for the right rear, and then go to the right rear wheel well and unbolt the bottom of the bolt from the hub assembly. Pry the strut out with the breaker bar and place it to the side. Bolt in the new strut and then repeat the process on the left side. Replace the plastic tabs and then fold the back seat back up.

Bolt the sway bars back into place and then put the wheels back on the 330. Lower the 330 off the stands and then look at the corners to make sure the struts are supporting the cars weight.

Locate the tabs on the inside edge of the round guides around the mounting hole where the headrest posts lock in place.

Press both retaining tabs while sliding the headrest up away from the seat back until it stops.

Hold the retaining tabs in and pull up firmly to remove the headrest from the seat back.

Align the headrest with the mounting holes before reassembly. Press the retaining tabs and hold them while you slide the headrest back into place.

Turn the steering wheel in the opposite direction of the bulb that you want to change. For example, if you want to change the right headlight, turn your wheels to the left.

Pull the electrical connection off the old bulb by looking into the wheel well from the outside of the car. The electrical connection resembles a plug.

Remove the bulb by rotating it counterclockwise turn.

Remove the new bulb from the package but do not touch the glass. Put on gloves to avoid skin oils contacting the bulb.

Place the new bulb in the location where you removed the old one and rotate it clockwise turn to lock it in place.

Plug the electrical connection back into the bulb and make sure it locks into place.

Repeat the process for any other bulb that needs to be changed then turn on the headlights to test them.

Remove the cover that surrounds the license plate area and runs along the bottom of the light assembly. Use a small flat head screwdriver to start the removal, taking care to not scratch the paint on the cover.

Use the screwdriver to pop the light assembly out of its retaining clips. Be especially caul when loosening the light assembly, since it can crack if you apply too much force.

Press on the clip on the light assemblys plug that is joined with the wiring harness inside the trunk. Place the old light assembly to the side on a soft cloth.

Insert the plug on the new light assembly into the socket in the wiring harness. Line the tabs on the back of the light assembly with the retaining clips on the trunk lid.

Press the light assembly into place gently, listening for the retaining clips to snap. Make sure the light assembly does not jiggle at all; otherwise, remove it and install it again.

Press the cover that goes around the license plate area and underneath the light assembly back into place so its retaining clips snap into place. Make sure the cover does not jiggle when you press on it.

Allow the engine to cool completely to ensure the coolant will not cause injury. Remove the negative battery cable with a socket wrench to prevent anyone from starting the engine inadvertently.

Place a drain pan beneath the drain hole for the radiator. Remove the radiator drain plug to drain the coolant into the drain pan. Replace the radiator drain plug.

Disconnect the right splash shield from the engine with a socket wrench and remove the accessory drive belt. Unfasten the mounting bolts for the water pump pulley and position the pulley between the drive hub and the water pump. Remove the mounting bolts for the water pump and detach the water pump from the engine.

Install a new seal into the housing groove on the new water pump. Mount the new water pump to the engine and torque the mounting bolts to 105 in.-lbs. with a torque wrench. Fasten the mounting bolts for the water pump pulley and tighten them to 250 in.-lbs. Turn the water pump manually to ensure it rotates freely.

Install the accessory drive belt and right splash shield for the engine. Connect the cable for the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench. Fill the radiator with coolant and start the engine. Check and correct any leaks in the cooling system.

Locate the horns behind the passenger side of the front bumper. Pull the electrical connectors off the male spade terminals on the horns.

Remove the nut from the mounting stud that holds each horn onto its horn bracket, using a combination wrench. Remove the horns and washers from their brackets.

Install the new horns onto the brackets. Install the washers and nuts on the horn mounting studs and tighten them securely, using a combination wrench.

Plug the electrical connectors onto the male spade terminals on the horn body. Test the horns for proper operation before driving in traffic.