Fix It

Position a sealable container under the radiator drain hole and remove the drain plug. Wait for the coolant to drain into the container. Seal the container for later use. Replace the drain plug.

Remove the mounting bolts for the cooling fan shroud with a socket wrench. Disconnect the shroud from the radiator. Detach the radiator hose, bypass hose and heater hose from the water pump. Disconnect the drive belt and the cooling fan assembly, including the fan spacer and pulley.

Remove the alternator mounting bolts with a socket wrench, and move the alternator out of the way to access the water pump. You may also need to remove the power steering pump bracket if the vehicle is so equipped. Disconnect the mounting bolts for the water pump and detach the pump from the timing chain cover. Discard the water pump gasket.

Apply a thin layer of sealer to the new gasket. Install the new pump and gasket to the timing chain cover. Tighten the mounting bolts for the water pump to 18 foot-pounds with a torque wrench.

Repeat steps two and three in reverse order to complete the installation of the new water pump. Replace the coolant in the radiator.

Disconnect the cable to the negative terminal of the battery with a socket wrench, and loosen the filler cap for the fuel tank. Locate the fuel pressure release valve on the fuel rail. Hold the banjo bolt for the release valve with a 6 mm closed wrench. Wrap a shop rag around the service bolt on top of the banjo bolt. Loosen the service bolt by one complete turn with an open-end wrench to relieve the pressure in the fuel system. Tighten the service bolt to 9 foot-pounds with a torque wrench.

Block the front wheels and raise the rear of the vehicle on jack stands. Loosen the drain bolt of the fuel tank and drain the fuel into a container approved for gasoline. Slide the clamps on the fuel hoses back and disconnect the fuel hoses from the fuel tank. Support the fuel tank with a floor jack and remove the nuts on the fuel tank retaining straps with a socket wrench. Lower the floor jack and remove the fuel tank from the vehicle. Disconnect the mounting bolts for the fuel pump with a socket wrench and remove the fuel pump from the fuel tank.

Install the new fuel pump onto the fuel tank ensuring that you seat it into its proper position. Tighten the mounting bolts evenly to a torque of 48 inch-pounds with a torque wrench. Connect the fuel tank and tighten the nuts on the restraining strap to 27 foot-pounds with a torque wrench.

Remove the service bolt on the fuel pressure regulator on the fuel rail. Disconnect the hose from the fuel pressure regulator and plug the open end of the hose. Attach a fuel pressure gauge to the pressure regulator.

Start the engine and note the reading on the fuel pressure gauge while the engine is idling. The fuel pressure in a 1990 Honda Accord should be in the range of 36 to 41 psi. Check for a clogged or pinched fuel return hose if the pressure is too high. Look for leaks in the fuel line, a faulty pressure regulator or a clogged fuel filter if the pressure is too low.

Wrap a shop rag around the fitting for the pressure gauge. Loosen the fitting slowly, until you can remove the pressure gauge. Place new washers on the service bolt and tighten it to 9 foot-pounds with a torque wrench.

Disconnect the battery ground cable and lay it aside, making sure that it does not touch metal. Use the clutch coupling removal tool to disconnect the coupling at the transmission. Slide the white, plastic sleeve towards the slave cylinder with one hand and tug on the tube with the other.

Remove the lever, shim and bushing from the transmission with the appropriate sockets. Stuff a rag into the opening to keep dirt and debris from falling into the transmission. Disconnect the clutch master cylinder push rod from the clutch pedal with the appropriate socket.

Jack up the Ranger with a floor jack and support it on jack stands. Make a mark on the drive shaft and at the same place on the rear axle flange so you know how to line up the drive shaft when you put it back in. Remove the drive shaft at the axle with the appropriate socket then pull it out of the rear of the transmission. Plug the housing to prevent fluid from leaking out.

Unbolt and remove the dust shield from the clutch housing with the appropriate socket. Remove the wires from the starter and lay them aside. Remove the harness for the back-up light (near the starter). Unbolt and remove the starter with the appropriate socket. Unscrew the speedometer cable from the transmission and set it out of the way.

Place a block of wood on one of the floor jacks. Slide it under the engine oil pan and jack it up so that the wood just touches the bottom of the oil pan to support the engine. Place a second jack under the transmission. If you are using a lift, use a transmission jack instead.

Remove the bell housing bolts and washers with the appropriate socket. Remove the transmission mounting bolts and the damper retaining bolts and nuts with the appropriate socket. Unbolt and remove the cross-member.

Lower the transmission jack and, at the same time, work the transmission off its dowel pins. Pull the transmission towards the back of the Ranger then place it on the ground. If you are using a floor jack, you can leave it on the floor jack if it is stable on the jack.

Remove the clutch housing-to-transmission nuts then pull the housing assembly off the transmission. Remove the slave cylinder from the input shaft. Slide the new slave cylinder over the input shaft, making sure the tower part of the slave cylinder faces the transmission.

Reinstall the clutch housing. The clutch housing has notches that line up with the slave cylinder. Make sure the slave cylinder is located properly in the clutch housing notches. Clean the mating surface of the clutch housing and the rear of the engine, especially around the dowel holes, with rags and carburetor cleaner. If there are burrs that will not wipe off easily, gently go over them with fine-grit sandpaper. Clean the area with carburetor cleaner and rags after sanding.

Raise the transmission with the jack. Line up the input shaft splines with the clutch disc splines. Move the transmission in towards the dowels, adjusting the jack as needed. Push the transmission onto the dowels.

Install the bell housing bolts and washers. Put the washers in place so that the bolts do not damage the aluminum bell housing. Tighten the bolts to 33 foot-pounds of torque. Move the transmission jack out of the way.

Reinstall the starter and tighten the bolts to 17 foot-pounds of torque. Jack the engine up with the floor jack. Reinstall the cross-member, transmission mount and damper. Tighten the bolts firmly. Remove the floor jack from under the engine. Reinstall the drive shaft by pushing it into the transmission extension housing then connecting it to the rear axle flange. Make sure the marks you made earlier line up. Reattach the washer, lock washer and the nuts. Tighten the drive shaft-to-flange nuts to 70 foot-pounds of torque.

Reinstall the dust shield. Tighten the dust shield bolts to 8 foot-pounds of torque. Reinstall the starter, the starter wires, the back-up lamp wiring harness and the speedometer cable. Check the transmission fluid level. Add Ford manual transmission lube as needed.

Remove the rags from the shifter hole. Reinstall the gearshift lever, shim and bushing with the appropriate sockets. Reinstall the lever-to-cover bolts and the boot retaining screws. Reconnect the master cylinder push rod to the clutch pedal with the appropriate socket. Attach the battery ground cable to the battery ground terminal. Bleed the clutch.