Fix It

Turn the ignition key to the "on" position.

Depress the accelerator pedal three times to the floor in rapid succession within five seconds. Turn the ignition key off and wait for ten seconds.

Turn the ignition key to the "Start" position, and start the engine. The Oil Life Monitor system has been reset.

Locate the vehicle identification number (VIN) by looking at the dash through the lower corner of the window on the drivers side of the vehicle. The VIN number is also on your vehicle title, insurance card and registration card.

Contact your local Dodge dealership and confirm that they have the ability to cut you a new key. Most dealerships offer repair services.

Take your VIN number to the dealership. They can use the VIN number to look up the key code needed to duplicate your key.

Unbolt the steering column from the dashboard with the 1/2-inch ratchet and socket. Caully lower it away from the dashboard to access the top of the ignition switch.

Unplug the wiring to the switch. Insert the key in the ignition and put it into the "Lock" position.

Unscrew the switch from the column using the Phillips-head screwdriver. Pull the switch off of the column and replace it with a new unit.

Check to make sure your ignition is completely off. Then pull the hood release lever.

Locate the battery under the hood. Find the negative terminal on the battery. Look for a retaining nut attached to the clamp and loosen it using the end wrench.

Slip the clamp off of the negative terminal, taking care to keep it away from the positive side of the battery.

Wait a minute and then put it back on the negative terminal. Tighten the nut with the end wrench. Lower the hood.

Put the key into the ignition and start the truck. Look on the instrument panel to make sure all the lights are off.

Wipe rust and dirt from the windshield frame with a damp towel. Put the new gasket in the sun until it feels looser and softer.

Fit the gasket snugly around the windshield. Make sure the side of the gasket that has the slit faces outside the Chevy. Locate the channel closest to the outside perimeter of the gasket. Run a thin line of sealant along this channel.

Spread petroleum jelly into the outer groove on the gasket. Put a little extra at the top center and bottom center. Insert a nylon cord into this outer groove. Start at the bottom center, leaving two long ends of cord hanging out in the center.

Place the windshield in the opening as you stand outside the vehicle. Make sure the cords hang inside the vehicle. Have your helper sit inside the vehicle to assist you in putting the windshield in place.

Ask your helper to pull one cord end slowly out and around the frame to bring the rubber lip of the gasket into place while you press the rubber gasket around the outside edge of the vehicle.

Wipe off the extra petroleum jelly. Allow the sealant to dry for two days before driving the truck.

Raise the vehicle with the jack, and secure it on jack stands. Double-check that the vehicle is secure before you crawl underneath it. Make sure there is enough room for you to fit underneath the truck while using the reciprocating saw. Put on the eye protection and hearing protection.

Locate the catalytic converter on the exhaust. Its shaped like a rectangle with rounded corners and has a flat flange down the sides. Cut the exhaust tubing about 2 inches forward of the catalytic converter, using the reciprocating saw with the metal blade.

Cut the exhaust tubing about 2 inches behind the catalytic converter, using the reciprocating saw with the metal blade. Then spray the penetrating fluid in the exhaust hanger attached to the catalytic converter, and use the 24-inch pry bar to remove the hanger and, with it, the catalytic converter.

Locate the spare tire lowering tool under the seat of your vehicle.

Insert the end into the rotating socket found between the tailgate and the rear bumper. Rotate the tool until the spare tire is lowered to the ground. Remove the spare tire.

Locate the mounting bolts on the shock absorbers. Spray penetrating fluid on the bolt and the nut and allow it to sit for 10 minutes.

Loosen and remove the bolts with a ratchet and 13/16-inch socket. There is no need to hold the nut on the opposite side with a wrench as it is designed to hold itself by utilizing a tab on the nut. Keep the bolts and nuts for re-installation of the new shocks.

Pull the shock from the mounting brackets.

Place the KYB shock into the brackets. Install the bolts and thread the nuts on the opposite sides.

Tighten the bolts with a 13/16-inch socket and a ratchet.

Repeat these steps to the opposite side of the vehicle.

Replace the spare tire and rotate the tool to lift it back under the vehicle. Place the tool back under the seat.

Locate the trapezoidal-shaped Diagnostic Link Connector (DLC) port under the drivers side dashboard. This is usually just left of the steering column.

Plug the OBD code scanner into the DLC port.

Put the key into the ignition and turn it two clicks forward, taking care not to start the engine. Wait for this to power on the scanner or find the on/off button and press it.

Select the command "Read Codes" or something similar to this.

Wait for the codes to display and write them down on a piece of paper.

Look up the codes in the code scanners manual to get the exact diagnosis.

Unplug the code scanner and have your car serviced or repaired based on the trouble codes.

Raise the vehicle using the jack and secure it on jack stands. Double-check that the vehicle is secure prior to crawling underneath it.

Locate the catalytic converter on the exhaust. This is an oval section of exhaust that swells out from the rest of the tubing and, depending on the year, may have louvers or vents on the face. Use the reciprocating saw and the metal blades to cut the catalytic converter from the exhaust, making sure to keep the saw perpendicular to the tubing to have a nice, straight cut.

Hold the replacement exhaust tubing against the area where the catalytic converter was and mark the tubing with a permanent marker so you can cut it to length. Use the reciprocating saw to cut the replacement tubing to the mark.

Hold the exhaust tubing between the two cut sections of the stock exhaust and use the MIG welder to tack-weld the tubing in place. A tack weld is a small, quick weld that secures two pieces together but can be easily removed. Make sure the tubing is aligned correctly and there are minimal gaps in the joints between the tubing before proceeding.

Put the welding gloves and welding helmet on, then fully weld the exhaust tubing together, using the MIG welder. Make sure there are no gaps in the exhaust; otherwise, youll have an exhaust leak.

Lower the truck off of the jack stands with the jack.

Scrub off the rust on the rear of the car with a scrubbing pad or wire brush. This gets rid of any surface rust.

Put on rubber gloves to protect hands when using rust removers. Rust removers use very strong acids to dissolve rust. These acids include oxalic acid and phosphoric acid.

Pour rust remover onto a scrubbing pad. Scrub the remover into the rust and let stand for about 5 minutes or for the length of time suggested on the label.

Wipe away the rust remover with a rag or cloth.

Apply a rust-proof primer with a paintbrush. This stops any further rusting on the rear of the truck.

Apply touch-up paint to necessary areas of the rear of the truck.

Raise and support the entire truck on jack stands. Disconnect the negative cable on the battery as a precaution.

Disengage the electrical connectors to the oxygen sensors. There are two oxygen sensors attached to each catalytic converter---a pre-converter sensor located near the front end of the converter and a post-converter sensor near the end.

Use a small ratchet wrench to remove the flange bolts connecting the catalytic converter to the exhaust pipe. Separate the pipe from the converter, and support the pipe. You can use the trucks floor jack, but place a board on top of the jack to keep it from damaging the pipe.

Remove the bolts that attach the converters header pipe to the exhaust manifold. The studs and nuts here often are rusty, so apply penetrating oil to them for easier removal.

Take off the catalytic converter and its pipe assembly. Repeat for the other converter if needed.

Clean away any carbon deposits built up on the mounting flanges with brake cleaner or the penetrating oil. Discard the gaskets; use new gaskets on the flanges when the new catalytic converter is installed.

Measure the area to be cut. If you will be cutting the lip off of the liner, measurements are not needed. If you will be cutting holes into the liner, measure the location of each hole in reference to the front of the liner including width and depth. With the liner still installed, you can readily trace the measurements from the truck to the liner without measuring, but be precise when doing so.

Lift the liner from the vehicle. Most liners lift straight out of the vehicle or slide out of the vehicle. If yours is secured to the body, unbolt any retaining bolts before lifting or sliding out the liner.

Stabilize the area to be cut using clamps and wood blocks as needed. Make sure nothing is in the path of the cutting tools.

Mark the area to be cut. Use masking tape to cover the line that you will cut, to protect the surface of the liner from damage. Use a pencil to outline your cut on top of the tape.

Cut out the section of the liner using an oscillating tool. Hold the oscillating tool carefully and trace the line on the tape until the cut is complete.

Remove the tape and lightly sand the cut edge. Cut plastic is sharp. Sand the area with 80- to 100-grit sandpaper to remove burrs and smooth out the cut. Replace the bed liner.