Fix It

The ignition switch on a 1977 Chevrolet truck is mounted on the steering column and is designed to trigger the starter motor and start the engine. This assembly can wear out over time. You then would have to remove the switch and replace it with a new one. This task can take about 30 minutes.

Instructions

1

Unbolt the steering column from the dashboard with the 1/2-inch ratchet and socket. Caully lower it away from the dashboard to access the top of the ignition switch.

2

Unplug the wiring to the switch. Insert the key in the ignition and put it into the "Lock" position.

3

Unscrew the switch from the column using the Phillips-head screwdriver. Pull the switch off of the column and replace it with a new unit.

In 1955, Chevrolet unveiled the companys first overhead valve small block V-8 engine. Initially, the small block Chevrolet engine featured 265 cubic inches of displacement. During the 1968 model year, Chevrolet began production of a larger displacement, 350 cubic inch small block engine. The higher performance small block Chevy came about in 1970, which required changes to the internal design in order to accommodate the larger cylinder bores. Identifying whether or not your particular vehicle has a 350 or 400 small block Chevy engine is an easy task, provided you have the correct information.

Instructions

1

Open your vehicles hood and allow the engine to cool, if applicable.

2

Examine the rear of the engine block, on the drivers side, below the cylinder head to locate the manufacturers casting numbers. The casting numbers for your engine will be located below the "GM" stamp at the rear of the block. Utilize a flashlight if you have issues reading the casting numbers on the engine block.

3

Write down the engine block casting numbers on a piece of paper.

4

Cross-erence the engine block numbers using a suitable chart guide to find out your engines displacement.

Vehicles are equipped with key codes, which are number sequences that link a key to its specific vehicle. If you need a new key for your vehicle, youll need to have the key code to create your key; without it, you wont be able to start your car. Key codes are noted in the paperwork given to you when you purchased your car. If you cannot find the key code in your paperwork, dont panic because your vehicle identification number contains your key code as well.

Instructions

1

Contact your local car dealership or a professional locksmith to request a new key for your vehicle. Both will need to make sure they have the correct type of blank key for the make and model of your vehicle.

2

Provide the dealership or locksmith with your key code. If you cant find your key code, you can provide them with your vehicle identification number (VIN). Your VIN is located on your vehicles paperwork, your car insurance paperwork, and your title and registration paperwork. It is also located on the drivers door panel and inside the windshield on the bottom left corner, visible from outside your car.

3

Schedule a time to go to your dealership and get your new key, or for your locksmith to come to you with your new keys. You will be asked to provide some form of proof that you are the owner of the vehicle, such as your registration or insurance card. Pay for the service provided to you and for your new keys.

The steering gear in a 1998 Dodge Ram is the box that mounts onto the frame of the truck and connects the steering column to the steering linkage. The gears used to make the connection can wear down to the point that they are no longer effective. To fix the issue, you need to rebuild the steering gear or replace it entirely. First though, you have to remove it from the frame.

Instructions

1

Park the Ram with the front wheels pointing straight. Crawl under the front of the Ram. Remove the power steering lines running to the steering gear with a line wrench.

2

Pop the hood. Unbolt the steering coupler from the steering gear with the 3/8-inch ratchet and socket. Unbolt the pitman arm bolt from the bottom of the steering box with the 3/8-inch ratchet and socket. Remove the pitman arm from the steering gear using the pitman arm puller.

3

Unbolt the steering gear from the frame with the 3/8-inch ratchet and socket and an open-end wrench. Take the steering gear off the frame and out from under the Ram.

Removing the vacuum shifter from your Jeep requires access to the front axle housing from under the Jeep. The vacuum shifter, used in the early Cherokee and Wrangler models with a Dana 30 axle assembly, engages when the Jeep is shifted into four-wheel drive. These actuators have long been a problem and a weak link in the system. If yours is not working, removal and replacement or converting the axle to do away with it may be your best option.

Instructions

1

Position a jack under the front of your Jeep and raise it off the ground. Position a set of jack stands under the front axle housing, then lower the Jeep until it is resting securely on the stands.

2

Slide under the passengers side of the Jeep and locate the vacuum shifter or actuator on the axle housing. It sits behind a small metal skid plate or guard. Remove the two bolts from the skid plate with a socket and ratchet, then remove the skid plate and set it aside.

3

Locate the two black vacuum lines on the end of the shifter. Pull the lines off the shifter and lay them aside. The lines are different sizes so there is no concern about mixing them up later.

4

Remove the four 10-mm bolts from the four corners of the actuator or shifter using a socket and ratchet. Set the bolts aside for reuse later.

5

Pry the shifter assembly loose from the axle housing with a stiff putty knife, then lift the assembly off the housing. Scrape any remaining gasket material off the housing and place a clean rag in the opening until you are ready to reassemble it to keep dirt and water out of the axle.

The Datsun 280Z was a sportscar made in the late 1970s. It was later replaced with the Nissan 280z after the Nissan automobile company purchased Datsun. It is the predecessor to todays Nissan 370Z. One of the security features of the 280Z was the ability to lock the steering column and ignition key while the vehicle was parked. This acted as a deterrent to would-be car thieves. It can be frustrating to remove the ignition key lock from the 280Z unless you understand how to turn the steering wheel and ignition key a certain way. Fortunately, you can learn how to do this in a few easy steps.

Instructions

1

Put the vehicle in park. If you have a manual transmission, you can skip this step and go on to Step 2 below.

2

Press the cars brake with your foot and hold it there. If you have not already done so, put the 280Zs key in the ignition.

3

Hold the steering wheel of the car firmly with your left hand and grip the ignition key with your right hand. While turning the steering wheel quickly left and right, simultaneously turn the ignition key as if you are starting the car. The turning of the ignition key coupled with the swiveling of the steering wheel will cause the ignition key lock to release.

When bolts are repeatedly removed and tightened, their heads may round out and become stripped. Tightly-secured vehicle oil pan bolt heads may also become stripped if you use the wrong type of wrench to remove them. An effective way to remove a stripped oil pan bolt is by using a small pipe wrench. Pipe wrenches, which feature slightly angled jaws and sharp teeth ideal for grasping, are designed to be used on round objects. Replace the oil pan bolt after the old stripped one has been removed.

Instructions

1

Park the vehicle on a level work surface and apply the emergency brake. Remove the ignition keys to prevent someone from starting the vehicle while youre preforming maintenance under it.

2

Locate the oil pans stripped drainage bolt, which is typically located at the lowest point of the oil pan. Shine a light, such as a flashlight or maintenance lantern, under the vehicle to illuminate the part.

3

Affix a small pipe wrench to the oil pan drainage bolt. Make small adjustments to the pipe wrench as needed so that it fits snugly over the bolt.

4

Grasp the handle and turn the pipe wrench in a counterclockwise direction. Position yourself to pull on the pipe wrench handle rather than push it. Pulling on the wrench will give you more leverage and strength to remove the bolt.

5

Replace the stripped bolt with the correct replacement part.

Repairing a car dent can be costly, depending on the make and model of the car, the age of the car and the level of damage. Knowing how to fix this problem yourself empowers you to save time and money.

Instructions

1

Inspect the dent and the surrounding area. Mark the central area of the dent, which is the deepest point of the indentation. The central area is located in the center of the upper and lower portion of the undented area.

2

Mix detergent in a container of water. Once the detergent has been mixed properly, immerse the sponge. Leave the sponge in for about 20 seconds, then rub it over the dented area as thoroughly as possible.

3

Rinse the dented area with water, and completely remove the applied detergent. Once you have rinsed the area thoroughly, apply the sponge, and remove any remaining signs of detergent. All grime or dirt must be removed from the dented area.

4

Immerse the bottom portion of the dent-puller suction cup in water. Once it is wet, apply it to the middle of the central area, which you previously marked.

5

Turn on the heat gun, and set the temperature to high. Apply the gun to the edges of the dented area. Do this thoroughly for about 45-60 seconds, until you have covered the entire outer region of the indentation. Immediately after removing the gun, use the dent puller to yank out the dent, and bring the metallic portion back to its normal state.

The Dodge Ram Sport is a full-sized pickup truck made by Chrysler. The 1999 model year represented the end of the second generation for the Dodge Ram Sport. Like all trucks, the Ram takes a lot of abuse due to the design and intended use of the truck. One of the components that will eventually need servicing is the exhaust system. The stock exhaust on a 1999 Dodge Ram Sport will need to be removed if you want to upgrade it to a stainless steel exhaust. However, many people remove the exhaust to replace it because of corrosion or damage caused by road salt.

Instructions

1

Place a jack stand under the exhaust piping at various intervals to support the exhaust while you remove it.

2

Unbolt the exhaust to manifold bolts located at the front of the exhaust system. You may need to use an extended handle on the socket wrench, called a "breaker bar," to apply additional leverage on the bolts to remove them.

3

Disconnect the electrical wiring on the O2 sensors on the exhaust. These are plug-style connectors that pull right off.

4

Separate the exhaust piping from the manifold. It should pull right apart, but depending on where you live and the condition of the piping, you may need to pry the joint apart with a large flat-tip screwdriver.

5

Slide the exhaust piping and muffler off the rubber exhaust hangers on the underbody of the Dodge and drop the exhaust down gently onto the ground.

The Cummins 5.9-liter engine has six cylinders and uses diesel fuel. Its most common use is in agricultural machinery and full-size Dodge pickup trucks made from 1989 through 1998. The Cummins 5.9-liter engine uses direct fuel injection to deliver fuel to the combustion chamber with a pressure of at least 3,550 pounds per square inch, or PSI. The procedure for removing the fuel injectors is generally the same for all Dodge trucks with the 5.9-liter Cummins engine.

Instructions

1

Remove the cable from the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench. This prevents the engine from starting during the fuel injector removal.

2

Disconnect the throttle linkage and its bracket with a socket wrench, if necessary, to access the fuel injectors. The fuel injectors for the 5.9-liter engine are on the left side of the cylinder head.

3

Detach the fuel lines from the fuel injectors. Each of the six fuel injectors has its own high-pressure fuel line. Disconnect the mounting bolts for the fuel drain manifold with a socket wrench and remove the manifold from the engine.

4

Unscrew the fuel injectors with a deep well socket and remove them from the injector bores. Discard the copper washer from the diesel injector and use a new washer when you install the fuel injector.

5

Clean the injector bore and surrounding area with a wire brush to remove any combustion deposits.

You can retrieve the trouble codes from your 85 Camaro yourself. The Camaro comes standard with an On-Board Diagnostics computer (OBD) that receives and stores trouble codes sent to it from sensors positioned throughout the car. When a sensor detects a malfunction, it sends a trouble code to the computer, which then illuminates a warning or service light on the vehicles instrument panel. In order to pinpoint exactly what the problem is, you will need to use a handheld computerized device, an OBD scan tool, to retrieve the trouble codes. You can purchase this device from any auto-parts store.

Instructions

1

Locate a port near the fuse panel on the lower part of the drivers-side dashboard. The port should be the same size and shape as the connector on the OBD scan tool. Plug the tool into this port.

2

Put the key into the ignition and turn it to the "On" position. Make sure you dont accidentally start the engine. The scan tool will power on automatically.

3

Wait for the scan tool to retrieve the codes. Some scan tools display a numerical trouble code only, which you then need to write down and look up in the OBD scan tools manual. Other manufacturers make scan tools that display the numerical code and the trouble code description right on the face of the tool.

4

Unplug the scan tool and turn off the vehicle. Take your Camaro to your mechanic along with the trouble codes in order to have it serviced or repaired, or make the repairs yourself, before attempting to reset the codes.

Harley-Davidson refers to the electrical control module (ECM) as being plugged into the "electrical caddy." The location of the electrical caddy, however, varies according to motorcycle model. On V-Rods and Buells, the caddy is under the rear seat; Rockers and Night Trains require you to remove the rear fender to access the ECM. On most Harleys, the caddy is on the right side of the motorcycle, approximately under the seat. Check your owners manual if you are unsure where the electrical caddy is on your motorcycle. This procedure works for all Harley Dynas and Wide Glides.

Instructions

1

Loosen and remove the bolt and washer on the rear tab of the motorcycle seat using an Allen wrench. Remove the seat by pulling up and back.

2

Disconnect the negative (black) battery terminal using a box wrench.

3

Remove the electrical caddy cover by firmly grasping both sides and pulling outward.

4

Insert a small screwdriver into the slot under each relay/fuse panel to disengage it. Insert two small screwdrivers into the slots on each side of the main fuse. Depress the tabs of the main fuse connector with the screwdrivers and remove the main fuse.

5

Depress the tab that secures the Turn Signal Module/Turn Signal Security Module (TSM/TSSM). Pull the TSM/TSSM from the electrical caddy and disconnect.

6

Disengage the data link connector by sliding it toward the front of the motorcycle.

7

Disconnect the electronic control connector. Remove the ECM.

Contaminated engine oil can result in costly damage to your motor. Engine oil lubricates the moving parts of your cars engine. It also cools, cleans and prevents corrosion. Oil contaminated by water can cause serious damage to your engine. Contamination can occur through a leaking or blown gasket or severe weather. The water thins the oil and reduces its effectiveness. Symptoms of water in your oil pump include oil levels increasing and coolant levels decreasing. You will need to change the oil immediately in order to prevent extensive and expensive damage to your cars engine.

Instructions

1

Drive the car around the block to heat the oil. Heated oil drains better from the engine block.

2

Turn off the engine and set the parking brake firmly. Put on the gloves and use the jack to raise the front of the car. Place the jack stands beneath the outer edges of the cars front frame. Place the chocks around the rear wheels.

3

Locate the oil pan drain plug under the raised car. Slightly loosen the plug by turning the nut to the left with the socket wrench. Place the newspaper under the plug and the oil filter. Slide the drain pan under the hole and pull the plug out. The contaminated engine oil will drain out of the car.

4

Remove the oil filter with the oil filter wrench carefully. The filter will be full of hot oil. Pour the oil into the drain pan and set the filter aside.

5

Open the hood and take off the oil filler cap. Wait one hour for the contaminated oil to completely drain out of your vehicle.

6

Insert the new oil filter and secure it in place with the wrench. Use the socket wrench to put the plug back into the oil pan. Slide the drain pan out from under the car.

7

Put the funnel into the oil filler hole and pour one can of engine oil into the car. Pour the engine oil flush and replace the oil filler cap.

8

Start your car and let the engine run for three to five minutes.

9

Turn the engine off and repeat the oil change process one more time. You do not need to add engine oil flush this time.

10

Close the hood, and use the jack to lower the car. Remove the newspaper, jack stands and wheel chocks.

The two catalytic converters in a Chevy truck are connected to the exhaust system. They help reduce pollutants and control emissions in order to meet both federal and state regulations. If either catalytic converter is not working, it needs to be removed to check for any blockages, or for replacement.

Instructions

1

Raise and support the entire truck on jack stands. Disconnect the negative cable on the battery as a precaution.

2

Disengage the electrical connectors to the oxygen sensors. There are two oxygen sensors attached to each catalytic converter---a pre-converter sensor located near the front end of the converter and a post-converter sensor near the end.

3

Use a small ratchet wrench to remove the flange bolts connecting the catalytic converter to the exhaust pipe. Separate the pipe from the converter, and support the pipe. You can use the trucks floor jack, but place a board on top of the jack to keep it from damaging the pipe.

4

Remove the bolts that attach the converters header pipe to the exhaust manifold. The studs and nuts here often are rusty, so apply penetrating oil to them for easier removal.

5

Take off the catalytic converter and its pipe assembly. Repeat for the other converter if needed.

6

Clean away any carbon deposits built up on the mounting flanges with brake cleaner or the penetrating oil. Discard the gaskets; use new gaskets on the flanges when the new catalytic converter is installed.

For most people, a "bad" brake rotor is one with a few scratches and grooves in the surface that cut into the pad, or one thats wavy and warped. But theres a lot more going on with your brake rotors than you might see on the surface -- and even thats bad enough as it is.

What is a "Bad" Rotor?

A lot of things can go wrong with a brake rotor. Most obvious are mechanical faults like grooves in the rotor caused by harder particulates in the pad material, cracks in the rotor and waviness or warping in the rotor surface. A front brake rotor must regularly absorb about 30 to 35 percent of all of the energy that goes into moving your car, which creates a lot of heat. Heat, among other things, causes the rotors metal to expand; when the metal cools and contracts, certain zones in the metal will cool faster than others. The uneven cooling pull those zones in different directions, causing the rotor surface to warp and become wavy. Extreme heating can also affect the metals crystalline structure, causing even bigger long-term problems.

Grooved Rotors

All brake rotors that arent brand-new exhibit a certain amount of grooving on the rotor surface. When the grooves are microscopically small, the peaks between the grooves will cut into the brake pad material. Simultaneously, the harder particles in the pad will resist this cutting and abrade the sides of those grooves. Eventually, the grooves will get large enough to be visible and cut large, matching grooves in the pad. So, its not a matter of if the grooved rotor will cut into your pad -- and vice versa -- but rather how far and how much the pads will deepen those grooves. If the rotors dont exhibit grooves deep or sharp enough to catch a fingernail, then you can replace the pads without machine-work or replacement. You can put new pads on a deeply-grooved rotor, but bear in mind that a) it will take some time for the pads to "bed in" and conform to the grooves in the rotor, b) while bedding in, the pads will rapidly accelerate groove widening and c) grooves create weak points in the rotor, increasing the odds that it will crack or shatter.

Warping

A warped rotor could easily eat your new pads alive, and may damage other, more expensive parts in the brake system. This is particularly true for some cars with antilock braking systems. An ABS system works by boosting or dropping brake pressure to each wheel. If the crests of the waves in your rotor are further apart than the pad is long, then the entire pad will drop in between the waves. When the crests come along, theyll shove backward on the pad, creating tiny fluid pressure fluctuations in the brake lines. These oscillations can damage the antilock brake pressure modulator, which costs far more to replace than itll cost you to have the rotors machined flat. So, if your rotors are warped, new rotors are advisable, particularly since new rotors arent usually much more expensive than machining. And, after machining, youll wind up with thinner rotors that are more prone to overheating and structural failure.

Material Changes

This little-known, but endemic, problem has both plagued and bewildered brake mechanics for a century or more. Long ago, mechanics noticed that, after the rotors for warpage or overheating, cars would often roll back into the shop when the rotors re-warped a few months later. And the re-warping problem has existed as alternately a puzzle or a myth -- depending upon who you asked -- since then. But, fairly recently, engineers have discovered that, following an episode of extreme overheating, the areas of the rotor that got the hottest would change in crystalline structure from the normal ferrite structure to the far harder cementite. Cementite, also known as iron carbide, is much like a ceramic and has far different properties in terms of hardness, abrasiveness and thermal conductivity. Think of chunks of oak floating in frozen ice cream, and youve got the right idea. Once these cementite spots form and penetrate the rotor surface to more than a few nanometers, the rotor is shot and will quickly self-destruct.