Fix It

When rebuilding an engine, the clearance between the main bearings and the crankshafts main bearing journals are critical. Too much clearance results in engine knocks, while not enough clearance results in burned bearings because they cannot get proper lubrication. These clearances are especially important to measure and adjust after machining the crankshaft to remove imperfections. Although it sounds complicated, measuring the clearances and adjusting them to specifications is really quite simple.

Instructions

1

Dip a set of standard size main bearings in engine oil and slip them into the block and main bearing caps.

2

Set the crankshaft in the block, ensuring that the main bearing journals of the crankshaft sit on the main bearings in the block.

3

Smear a light coating of grease across the center of the bearing journals on the crankshaft. Put a string of Plastigauge in the grease on each main bearing journal. The grease will keep the Plastigauge in place.

4

Install each bearing cap in its original position, thread the bearing cap bolts into the block through the bearing caps. Tighten the bearing caps with any tools necessary from a toolkit. Torque the main bearing cap bolts with a torque wrench.

5

Remove the main bearing caps, one bearing cap at a time. Measure the Plastigauge with the built in scale on the Plastigauge packaging. Subtract the recommended factory main bearing clearance from the Plastigauge reading. The result will be the size of the oversize bearing needed for that particular main bearing journal. Repeat for all main bearing caps.

6

Remove the crankshaft. Slip the appropriate over-sized bearing in the block required for each crankshaft journal, depending on their individual Plastigauge readings, after dipping them in motor oil. Slide the other half of the bearing into the main bearing cap after dipping it in motor oil. Plastigauge each bearing again to ensure all bearing clearances are correct before proceeding any further. Adjust the bearing sizes as needed.

In the early 1900s, people had to start their vehicles by turning a large crank at the front of the vehicle. In 1911, Cadillac approved Charles F. Ketterings design of the electric starter for its 1912 model year cars. Replacing a starter can be a difficult task in some vehicles, and it can be frustrating when the car does not start after all of your work. There are four main reasons for your car not cranking when you just got a new starter for it.

Incorrect Wiring

There are three wires that connect to the rear of the starter solenoid on most cars. If you forgot to label these wires and incorrectly reinstalled them, the starter will not work at all. Double-check the wiring of the starter against a wiring schematic for the starting system and adjust it, as needed.

Electrical Shorts

Any time you replace any electrical component on your vehicle that has constant voltage from the battery, you must disconnect the battery prior to servicing it. If you left the battery connected while installing the starter, it is possible for you to unintentionally touch the power and ground cables together. This may cause a short inside the battery or in the wiring, resulting in the car not starting. Check the voltage coming into the starter, using a voltmeter. If little or no voltage comes into the starter, inspect the wires and battery for shorts.

Misdiagnosis

It is possible that the starter was not the problem to begin with. If not correctly diagnosed, it is easy to mistake many other problems with starter failure. Some problems that result in similar symptoms as a failed starter include, but are not limited to: failed ignition switch, discharged battery, loose battery cables, security system failure, failed starter solenoid (if separate) or damaged flywheel or flexplate.

Faulty Starter

When the manufacturer builds a new starter or rebuilds an old starter, it tests the starters prior to shipping them to retail stores or end-users. This testing typically catches any failed starters prior to shipment, but human error does allow for a small percentage of failed starters to ship out. After checking the areas described in the three previous sections, remove the starter and take it to a local parts store to have it tested. In the future, have all electro-mechanical components tested before installing them.

"Transmission slip" is a term used to describe a transmission that is not operating properly. A slipping transmission adds stress to the transmission and other drive-train components and if not promptly repaired can cause serious problems.

Definition

A slipping transmission is a transmission that is slow to respond when put into gear or when shifting gears. When the transmission slips, the engine often revs quickly as if the car had been put into neutral, but the car does not accelerate.

Causes

The most common cause of a slipping transmission is low transmission fluid due to a leak. As the fluid level falls, there is not enough transmission fluid to properly operate the transmission. Transmission fluid breakdown and wear of the transmission gears may also cause the transmission to slip.

Repair

When a transmission slip is noticed, a car owner should check the transmission fluid level and add fluid if the level is low. If the transmission fluid is not low and the car is due for a transmission fluid change, the car owner should change the fluid. If the transmission continues to slip, the car owner should consult with a trusted transmission repair shop.

When bolts are repeatedly removed and tightened, their heads may round out and become stripped. Tightly-secured vehicle oil pan bolt heads may also become stripped if you use the wrong type of wrench to remove them. An effective way to remove a stripped oil pan bolt is by using a small pipe wrench. Pipe wrenches, which feature slightly angled jaws and sharp teeth ideal for grasping, are designed to be used on round objects. Replace the oil pan bolt after the old stripped one has been removed.

Instructions

1

Park the vehicle on a level work surface and apply the emergency brake. Remove the ignition keys to prevent someone from starting the vehicle while youre preforming maintenance under it.

2

Locate the oil pans stripped drainage bolt, which is typically located at the lowest point of the oil pan. Shine a light, such as a flashlight or maintenance lantern, under the vehicle to illuminate the part.

3

Affix a small pipe wrench to the oil pan drainage bolt. Make small adjustments to the pipe wrench as needed so that it fits snugly over the bolt.

4

Grasp the handle and turn the pipe wrench in a counterclockwise direction. Position yourself to pull on the pipe wrench handle rather than push it. Pulling on the wrench will give you more leverage and strength to remove the bolt.

5

Replace the stripped bolt with the correct replacement part.

Sand is best left on the beach or in a sand box. If it makes its way to your autos gas tank you may be in for a headache and expense.

History

The concepts of putting something other than gas in the gas tank allegedly originated in the 1996 movie, "Kingpin," where sugar was placed in a victims gas tank.

Potential Damage

If the tank was filled up with sand to the brim, it could damage the engine. Snopes.com notes that most cars contain a "sock" at the end of the tanks pickup tube that prevents anything that is not liquid from entering. The cars fuel filter should collect any remaining sand from entering the engine.

Solution

A complete flush of the tank and a change of the fuel filter should fix the problem. This kind of repair could range anywhere from $450 to $500.

Prevention

A locking gas cap might be a good investment. Speedconcepts.net offers several varieties for different vehicles in the $30 to $40 range.

Heres a good way to mess with your friends the next time youre sitting at the local watering hole: ask them if cars are alive. Cars these days are composed of both synthetic and biological materials, they can react to outside stimuli such as heat and cold, they can reproduce (with the aid of a human symbiote) and they can even age. Resurrecting a long-stationary engine usually isnt a matter of simply turning the key; its more like waking an old lady from a very long nap.

Basic Issues

The biggest problem with restarting an old engine has to do with oiling. Oil, and its nefarious cousin, sludge, are supposed to coat every interior surface of your engine to keep everything slick and working properly. Over time, liquid oil either drains down into the pan or gets trapped somewhere in the engine, and sludge dries into charcoal. Obviously, lubricating an engine with air, rust and charcoal isnt the smartest thing you can do where longevity is concerned.

Critter Patrol

You might be surprised as to exactly how much stuff can get into an engine when it sits for a while, especially if theres no air filter on it. Thoroughly inspect your air intake tube for leaves and critters, and pull the carburetor or throttle body off to inspect the inside of the intake. Trust it: Your engine will not be happy if the intake valves happen to suck a birds nest, field mouse or snake into the combustion chambers. Dont assume everythings kosher if the air filters in place, either; bugs can crawl up through the tailpipe, through open exhaust valves and nest in the cylinders or intake manifold.

Prime the Pump

As mentioned in Section 1, oil will eventually drain out of everywhere its supposed to be, including the oil pump. The prescribed solution is to manually prime the oil pump using a drill and a specialized pump-priming shaft. This may not be possible for some engines, though; the worst case scenario is that youll have to pull the oil pump, pack it with petroleum jelly and reinstall it. The jelly will allow the pump to create a vacuum and pull oil from the pan. You might get lucky, though. Try installing a mechanics oil pressure gauge and bump the starter; it might produce oil pressure without priming.

All Systems Go

Once youve primed the pump and have established oil pressure with a priming shaft, disconnect the ignition system -- if its still connected -- and bump the starter a few times to ensure that oil goes everywhere it should. Spin the engine over a few times to blow anything in the engine out of it, and listen for unexpected sounds from the engine. Stop if you hear any kind of rattling, puffing or any other sound the engine doesnt normally make. Reconnect the ignition and give it a shot. If the engine doesnt start right away, then its probably due to a lack of fuel pressure. If you have a mechanical pump, just keep cranking the engine for about 20 seconds or until it catches.

The 2002 Volvo S80 features a keyless remote that allows the owner to lock and unlock the vehicle from afar as well as open the trunk. There are situations, however, such as when the battery of the vehicle is dead, in which the keyless remote will not work. In these cases, the owner may access the trunk manually with a key or through the passenger compartment.

Instructions

Using a Key

1

Remove the black cover to the right of the handle cover on the trunk of the vehicle. This will reveal a manual lock.

2

Insert the key into the lock and turn it to the right to unlock the truck.

3

Use the manual to open the trunk.

Accessing the Trunk from Inside

4

Reach behind the back seat to access the trunk.

5

Pull the release control handle on the inside of the trunk to release the backrest. This may be somewhat difficult as you have to feel around for the control handle.

6

Fold the backrest down. You now have access to the trunk. If it is too dark to see inside the trunk, use a flashlight.

7

Pull down the florescent handle on the inside of the trunk lid. This will open the trunk.