Fix It

The first Dodge Rams rolled out of the factory in 1981, and Dodge has continued to improve and redesign its heavy-duty pickup truck ever since. Dodge introduced the current generation of Rams in 2009. The 2010 Ram was available in several two-wheel-drive and four-wheel-drive trims in the 1500, 2500, 3500, 4500 and 5500 weight classes. However, the toe-in specs were the same for all trims of the Ram 1500. Likewise, all other trims of the 2010 Dodge Ram shared the same toe-in specs.

Toe

The toe of a wheel ers to the angle of the wheel in relation to the vehicles centerline. If the front of a wheel is angled inward toward the centerline, then the wheel has toe-in. If the front of a wheel angles outward away from the centerline, then the vehicle has toe-out. Most vehicles are designed for the wheels to toe in slightly. Toe is the most important alignment spec in terms of tire wear. If a wheel has the toe misaligned by just a fraction of a degree, it can significantly reduce the life of a tire. The toe is adjustable on the front ends of all trims of the 2010 Dodge Ram. It is not adjustable on the rear because the Rams come with a fixed rear axle. The specs provided below apply only to the 2010 Dodge Ram and should not be used on other model years, because alignment specs can change from year to year.

The 2010 Ram 1500

The same toe-in specs apply to all two-wheel-drive and four-wheel-drive trims of the 2010 Dodge Ram 1500, regardless of whether the truck came with 17-inch tires or 20-inch tires. The ideal toe-in setting is +0.1 degrees but it can vary by 0.36 degrees in either direction.

All Other Trims and Models of the 2010 Ram

All other trims of the 2010 Dodge Ram, including the Ram 2500, the Ram 3500, the Ram 3500 Heavy Duty Chassis-Cab, the Ram 4500 Heavy Duty Chassis-Cab and the Ram 5500 Heavy Duty Chassis Cab, came with the same toe-in specs. The specs were the same for Box Off and standard trims. The ideal setting for the toe-in is +0.2 degrees but it can range by 0.1 degree in either direction.

Unlike the first mass-produced cars of a century ago, cars today have advanced control systems that are computer dependent. Being computer dependent, more and more information about how the car is functioning goes to the on-board computer. The vehicle speed sensors are the gatherers of this information.

Vehicle Speed Sensor Description

Cars manufactured today are dependent on on-board computers. The computer receives the information it needs to have a car operate properly from strategically located vehicle speed sensors. Most vehicle speed sensors are of the permanent magnet type. They function similarly to a cam shaft or crankshaft sensor. The installed sensors are either in the transmission case or rear differential assembly. When a speed sensor fails, the cars check engine light comes on and a code goes to the computer and can be read at a service station.

Locating Speed Sensors

This code indicates which sensor has failed and what the problem is. Occasionally, a sensor will fail without sending a code. If the driveability of the car is suspect, say the power steering isnt working and the ABS brakes are stuttering, a mechanic can check the vehicles manual and quickly find if the same speed sensor is controlling both modules.

Speed Sensors Control Many Functions

Modules or functions that use information from vehicle speed sensors include the variable assist power steering unit where the information from a speed sensor regulates the power steering pressure with higher pressure at low speeds and vice versa. This makes things like parallel parking maneuvers easier.

A cars anti-lock braking system (ABS) also uses information from a speed sensor to decide when a wheel has locked up and thus commands the ABS to cut pressure in order for the driver to maintain control of the car. While some cars use separate sensors for the ABS, it is common that the computer uses the information from the wheel sensors to act as a vehicle speed sensor. For example, many newer Ford vehicles use a rear axle mounted speed sensor for ABS and vehicle speed functions that are computer related.

Both traditional and hybrid cars use information from vehicle speed sensors for the speedometer display.

Many new cars have developed suspension systems that use vehicle speed sensor information to control the height of the ride. They adjust the ride down for better control at higher speeds for improved maneuverability.

Automatic transmissions must have the information from a vehicle speed sensor to decide shift strategy.

Additionally, cruise control depends on speed sensor information to know when to engage and when to disengage, as well as when to cruise at a set speed.

All Electronic Engine Control (EEC) systems use some speed sensor information to perform their tasks.

On an automobile, the intake manifold is mounted to the engine block above the cylinder or port openings. Older intake manifolds are made of cast iron, but most new ones are plastic or die-cast aluminum.

Purpose on Older Engines

On older vehicles the intake manifold delivers the right mixture of air and fuel evenly to each of the cylinders. Heat vaporizes this mixture, providing optimum delivery in mist form.

Location on Older Engines

On an older engine, both sides are flanked by the valve covers, and its top is partially obstructed from view by the carburetor and air cleaner mounted above.

Purpose on Newer Engines

New engines have replaced the carburetor with a tuned-port injection system. Because these deliver the fuel directly to the ports, air and fuel no longer need to be mixed in the intake manifold. On these engines the purpose of the intake manifold is to deliver the proper amount of air to each of the ports, where it will be mixed with the fuel.

Location on Newer Engines

On newer engines, the intake manifold is connected to the ports on the engine. Hoses attached to the intake manifold are to operate vacuum systems such as brakes, cruise control and the air-conditioning. (See References 1)

If there is ever a strong smell of engine exhaust in the vehicle, it means there is an exhaust leak somewhere toward the front side of the vehicle. It is imperative to have the exhaust fixed immediately as engine exhaust contains carbon monoxide, which will poison you. If the vehicle must be driven, drive with all windows down and the heating/air conditioning turned off to limit your exposure to the noxious fumes. There are several places exhaust fumes could leak from that would find their way into the cabin.

Exhaust Manifolds

With the engine running, check the exhaust manifolds for any leaks (remember exhaust is very hot and will burn you so do not touch it until the engine has completely cooled). Potentially, there could be leaks between the exhaust manifold and the cylinder head, or the exhaust manifold and the exhaust down pipe. If leaks are found, replace the leaking gasket. Inspect the exhaust manifold for extreme corrosion; in rare cases, exhaust manifolds have been known to corrode and may need to be replaced altogether.

EGR Valve

The exhaust gas recirculation valve directs exhaust back into the intake manifold. If the EGR valve gasket has failed, it will begin to leak exhaust gas, which may find its way into the cabin. Check around the EGR valve for any gasket leak, as well as the piping leading to the EGR valve for any corrosion or damage.

Catalytic Converter and Gasket

If the catalytic converter becomes plugged, it will create intense back pressure that can cause the mating gasket between the exhaust pipe and the catalytic converter to fail and leak exhaust fumes. Even from under the car, these noxious fumes can make their way into the vehicle cabin. Check for any exhaust leaks around the mounting point between the exhaust pipe and catalytic converter.

Leaking Exhaust Pipes

Over time, exhaust pipes can corrode and develop rust holes, especially in states that use salt for ice and snow control in the winter. Visually inspect all pipe from the engine back for any extreme corrosion or damage from other road conditions and replace as necessary.

Although new to some, the Shimmy Shock has been around for quite some time. Invented by T.W. Koerner and patented in 1933 it made a substantial difference in the comfort and handling of a vehicle. The current design of the Shimmy Shock has changed considerably with improved technology.

The Problem

Cars built before the 1930s were a wonder of invention and a convenience but not without their challenges. One of the problems drivers experienced was a direct translation of the bumps in the road to the driver through the steering wheel. This vibration was fatiguing to the driver as well as hard on the cars steering system.

The Solution

T.W. Koerners invented the Shimmy Shock to eradicate or lessen the shock transmitted to the steering from the ground wheels. The original Shimmy Shock was designed as a rubber cushion inserted into a hub in the rock arm that connected to the rock shaft in the steering linkage. It was secured by a circular flange (large washer) above it and a nut bolting onto the rock shaft that extended through the rocker arm. This required a significant change in the design of the rock arm.

The Solution Today

With this same goal in mind of decreasing vibrations that travel thought the steering system to the driver consequently increasing control, improving safety and easing driver fatigue, todays technology has designed shock absorber called a steering stabilizer, steering damper or sprint damper. It is a hydraulic device mounted to the steering linkage horizontally across the front of the vehicle. When the shock or stabilizer is worn or damaged you experience vibration while steering the vehicle, resulting in greater tire wear.

The constant heating and cooling of your vehicles exhaust system, combined with moisture, will quickly cause the exhaust flange bolts to rust and seize. The rust has often progressed to the point that the threads of the exhaust flange bolts are unusable. To release the exhaust flange bolts, you will need to apply heat to remove the rust from the threads; and if the threads are beyond use, you will need to cut the bolts from the exhaust flange.

Instructions

1

Inspect the area around the exhaust flange bolts to make sure that there are no fuel lines or combustible materials within the area and clear any combustibles from the area underneath the vehicle.

2

Put on your leather work gloves and tinted safety glasses.

3

Place the fire extinguisher close to you in an unobstructed area so you can easily reach the extinguisher in case there is a fire.

4

Turn on the acetylene and ignite the torch with the striker. Turn on the oxygen and set the flame hot by increasing the oxygen until the inner bright blue flame is about 1/2 of an inch long.

5

Set the tip of the torch 6 to 8 inches away from the first exhaust flange bolt and heat the bolt until it has a dull orange glow then turn off the oxy-acetylene torch. Do not use the air trigger to heat the bolt faster.

6

Allow the exhaust flange bolt to cool and then place a socket that fits the bolt head onto the ratchet.

7

Slide the socket onto the nut located on the exhaust flange bolt and turn the ratchet handle counterclockwise to loosen the exhaust flange bolt. If the first nut will not loosen, proceed to the next step. If the bolt loosens, repeat the process with the rest of the exhaust flange bolts.

8

Reignite the oxy-acetylene torch, set the flame as described in Step 4 and place the tip of the torch 3 to 4 inches away from the head of the exhaust flange bolt.

9

Heat the bolt head until you see a bright orange glow emitting from the metal and then hit the air trigger to blow additional oxygen onto the bolt. You will see the bolt head melting and blowing toward the floor.

10

Turn off the oxy-acetylene torch and immediately strike the threaded side of the exhaust flange bolt with a hammer to remove the bolt from the exhaust flange. Repeat the procedure with each exhaust flange bolt to free the exhaust flange from the manifold.

11

Allow the bolts and molten metal to cool for at least 30 minutes before you leave the area to ensure that no combustible materials catch on fire.

12

Clean up and dispose of the cut exhaust flange bolts after they have cooled for one or two hours to reduce the chances of starting a fire in a garbage can.

Air conditioning (AC) compressors are a must for proper cooling and can appear in applications such as vehicles or homes. An auto AC compressor is considered to be the most vital of all the parts in a vehicles air conditioning system and is often referred to as the heart of the system. Having information on an AC compressors functions can be beneficial to homeowners and auto owners.

Residential Vs. Auto

AC compressors can vary in location depending on if its for an auto or residential application. An auto AC compressor is connected to a vehicles engine. A residential AC compressors is usually located outside the home encased within a sealed unit.

Auto Compressor Functions

An auto AC compressor has two sides which are vital to how it functions. A suction side allows gases produced from refrigerant to be pulled in. The compressor then compresses the gases and uses its discharge side to transfer them for use to other parts of the system.

Residential Compressor Functions

A residential AC compressor is a pump which brings in refrigerant gas as well. In a residential compressor, this refrigerant gas is brought in through a large suction line. The compressor then uses compression to change the refrigerant into a highly pressurized gas which is then sent to be used in other parts of the system.

Traction bars are devices that keep the rear axle from "bouncing" on high-performance and specialty vehicles. They are most commonly associated with cars used for racing. Traction bars are also common on four-wheel-drive vehicles that are frequently used off-road. In many cases, such four-by-fours have traction bars installed at the factory as part of the original equipment, so the owner may not even know that his vehicle has them.

The Problem

Many high-performance cars and four-wheel-drive vehicles have leaf springs as part of the rear suspension. Leaf springs provide a more heavy-duty rear suspension than a coil spring can deliver. The leaf springs are attached, at front and rear, to the frame of the vehicle, and the axle is attached to the middle of the springs on both sides. This allows for some rotational give as the axle twists backward when providing forward thrust to the wheels. In hard acceleration, this twisting movement can become exaggerated and cause the drive wheels to start to hop up and down. The drive wheels lose traction and make a terrific clattering noise.

The Solution

Traction bars are heavy, rigid bars made of steel that bolt to the bottom of the springs or axle, or both. They extend to the front spring mounts on the frame of the vehicle. The brackets on both ends of the traction bars are pivoted, so as to avoid creating additional heavy stress points on the suspension. The design prevents wheel hop during hard acceleration in performance cars by preventing the axle from twisting backwards as it delivers forward thrust. Traction bars also help four-wheel-drive vehicles maintain traction in off-road maneuvers by preventing wheel bounce.

Installation

Though installation is simple for the experienced racing enthusiast, a professional shop can adjust them exactly to your car and perform tests to make sure they perform at a peak level. While most four-wheel-drive vehicles already have factory-installed traction bars, trucks that are used for utility purposes on farms and in rural areas can benefit by having traction bars installed.

Adverse Effects

On hot-rods that have reduced ground clearance, traction bars should always be professionally installed. The extra steel in the suspension and the reduced movement in the rear suspension can create serious ground clearance problems in vehicles that have minimal clearance to begin with. In any application, the addition of traction bars will stiffen the rear suspension and make for a less comfortable ride.

Efficient valve stem seals play an important role in the use of oil in a vehicles engine. When not working properly, faulty valve stem seals may cause a variety of problems.

Basics

Valve stem seals control the amount of oil lubrication that is provided to the valve train and ultimately the combustion chamber. This process is crucial for maintaining engine health and productivity.

Function

A valve stem seal has a lip that helps control the amount of oil on it as it maneuvers by continually wiping away the excess. At the same time, the seal allows oil to move past it and lubricate the valve guides. Multiple factors in the engines environment contribute to the amount of oil that is needed at any given time.

Problems

If a valve stem seal begins to fail, either too much or too little oil is allowed past the seal and multiple problems may arise. With limited oil flow, engines may experience problems with overheating or spark plug issues. When too much oil passes through the valve there may be an increase in hydrocarbon emissions, as well as damage to the catalytic converter. In addition, debris from old seals may clog oil passages.