Fix It

A Dana 44 is a type of automotive axle manufactured by Dana Corporation and used by many automobile manufacturers. The Dana 44 Axle for a Scout II is made specific for a Jeep. These axles can be installed on the Jeep, but often they need to be cut down to fit properly. If you are planning on installing a Dana axle for a Scout II, you may need to cut it down so it will fit.

Instructions

1

Run a tape measure along the length of the Scout II Dana 44 axle. It should measure 58 inches in length. This signifies it is the proper axle.

2

Lay down on the ground near the front of the Jeep and measure the distance across the front axle. This is where the new Dana 44 axle will be installed. Record the measurement.

3

Run a tape measure along the new Dana 44 axle and draw a small line along the axle with a black marker at the desired cut location so it will fit onto the Jeep.

4

Press the blade of an angle grinder up to the mark on the axle where you will be cutting. Put on gloves and safety goggles for added protection. Hold the arm coming out of the side of the angle grinder with your dominant hand and the back with your non-dominant hand.

5

Flip the switch to turn on the angle grinder and press it firmly into the metal. Cut caully along the black mark. Press down on the grinder so it does not move right or left when you are cutting and continue until the piece has been cut in two.

Removing the trans axle from a 2000 Chevrolet Malibu is a challenging task that may be accomplished in a well equipped home shop. According to Robert Kautz of ACE Automotive, the job will require an experienced mechanic with a full complement of general automotive repair tools and supplies as well as the special tools listed below. Read the procedure through before starting and wear safety glasses at all times.

Instructions

Preparation

1

Park the vehicle on a level surface. Use the floor jacks to lift it and place the car on the jack stands. Raise it high enough that you can comfortably work on top and get underneath. Be sure all stands are solidly engaged on a firm surface. Try to shake the car, if there is any movement, re-set the stands. Do not get under the vehicle until you are sure it is stable. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2

Use the lengths of rope to secure the radiator and air conditioning condenser. Loop the rope around the units on each side and tie them off using the hood bumpers. Remove the air cleaner box and hose.

3

Attach the engine hoist or support fixture to the engine lifting tabs and adjust so that the full weight of the engine will be supported at all times. You will be removing the bottom engine supports with the transaxle.

Removal

4

Label and disconnect all electrical connections to the engine. Disconnect the shift cable from the transaxle. Remove the harnesses from their brackets on the transaxle and tuck them out of the way.

5

Remove the three engine to transaxel bolts from the top. Loosen the front wheel lugs and drive axel hub nuts. Remove the inner fender splash shields. Use the ball joint tool to separate the control arm balljoints from the steering knuckles to facilitate axel removal. Disconnect the tie rod ends from the steering linkage.

6

Disconnect and label the remaining electrical connectors under the vehicle. Detach them from the brackets on the subframe. Remove the bracket that connects the transaxel to the engine. Remove the bolts securing the torque converter cover and remove the cover. Remove the starter motor. Mark the driveplate and torque converter to indicate their position relative to each other and use the offset box wrench and flywheel tool to remove the bolts connecting the two.

7

Use the flare nut wrenches as necessary to remove all cooler and brake lines obstructing the removal process. Plug the lines to prevent leaks. Disconnect the power steering lines and remove the bolt securing the line on the right side of the subframe. Remove the panel supporting the radiator and condenser.

8

Remove the three transaxle mounts. Position two floor jacks under the transaxel subframe and remove the mounting bolts. Remove the subframe slowly. Remove the left bracket to transaxle mounting bolts and the heater core bracket bolt. Remove the remaining bolts holding the transaxle to the engine.

9

Use the transmission jack to slide the transaxle to the left and lower it slowly.

The Volvo 850 is a compact executive car sold on the North American market from 1992 to 1997. Options included several body styles and a choice of engines. This front-wheel drive vehicle requires periodic axle service and occasional replacement of the axle.

Instructions

Removal Procedure

1

Remove the front wheel and the ABS sensor from the steering swivel member. Take out the brake pipe bracket and ABS lead. Unhook the bracket, and let it hang free. Remove the drive shaft center nut. Pull out the split pin from the hub center nut. Use counter-hold tool No. 999 5461 (on models with four wheel bolts) or tool No. 999 5540 (on models with five wheel bolts), and remove the nuts. Disconnect the drive shaft end from the hub.

2

Tap the shaft end in approximately 10 to 15 millimeters, using a plastic or copper mallet. Remove the link arm from the anti-roll bar and the nuts holding the link arm and ball joint together. Unhook the link arm from the ball joint.

3

Remove the drive shaft from the hub. First, twist and pull out the strut. Then tap on the drive shaft end with a plastic or copper mallet to remove it from hub. Clean the metal glue from the spline joint (hub-drive shaft).

4

Pull out the bearing caps from the drive shaft support bearing and the drive shaft gearbox if you are working on the right axle. Take care not to damage the seals in the transmission and drive shaft boot (gaiter). If you are working on the left axle, use prying tool No. 999 5462 to remove the drive shaft from the transmission. Do this by applying leverage between the transmission and the inside of the drive shaft.

Installation Procedure

5

Inspect the ABS sensor. It should be free of dirt. Push in the drive shaft, ensuring that its clip engages in the differential groove. Take care not to damage the drive shaft seal or boots. Install the bearing cap. Tighten it by applying 18 foot pounds of torque.

6

Install the drive shaft in the hub. Apply metal glue to the drive shaft splines. Twist and remove the strut, and fit the drive shaft into the hub. Use a socket wrench to hold the link arm down. Install a new drive shaft nut, and hand-tighten it.

7

Install the link arm onto the ball joint. Use new nuts. Ensure that the mating surfaces on the ball joint and the link arm are clean and free of grease. Tighten the nuts to 13 foot pounds, plus an additional 120 degrees. Apply a rust proofing agent to the areas between the ball joint, link arm and nuts.

8

Link the arm to the anti-roll bar with new nuts, and tighten them to 37 foot pounds. Tighten the drive shaft center nut. Use counter-hold tool No. 999 5461 (on models with four wheel bolts) or tool No. 999 5540 (on models with five wheel bolts). Tighten the nuts to 89 foot pounds, plus an additional 60 degrees. Lock the drive shaft center nut. Use a chisel to tap the locking nut flange into the drive shaft slot.

9

Install the brake pipe/ABS lead bracket. Ensure that the ABS sensor seat is absolutely clean. Clean the ABS sensor with a soft brush, fit it onto wheel shaft and tighten it to eight foot pounds. Install the front wheel. Ensure that brake disc and pad contact surfaces are clean.