Fix It

Auto repair guides dictate a common price for mechanics to protect customers from paying too much. However, each shop varies in how much they charge for labor, especially as technology improves and repairs become more complex.

Guides

Most auto repair shops use one of three guides for charges: Chiltons, AllData and Mitchell. However, these guides need to be constantly updated as new cars come out featuring different technology.

Significance

When customers pay for labor in an auto shop, they pay for the parts needed plus the hourly rate charged by the mechanic. This hourly rate helps pay the mechanics wage, any tools the shop needs and the overhead to keep the shop running.

Regional

Labor guides vary depending on where you live. If you are in a part of the country that gets a lot of snow, the sand and salt on the roads corrode your car. Working with rust is difficult for mechanics and costs more money than cars in drier, warmer climates.

You can reset the computer on your 01 Toyota Tundra right from your home driveway or garage. The Tundra, like most modern vehicles, is equipped with an On-Board Diagnostics (OBD) computer that reads trouble codes sent to it from sensors positioned throughout the vehicle. These trouble codes illuminate in the form of warning or service lights on your instrument panel. Once you have the Tundra serviced or repaired, you will need to reset the computer so that it can continue to do its work. Resetting the computer will also shut off any service and warning lights on the dash.

Instructions

1

Locate the port underneath the steering column that has the same size and shape as the OBD code scanners connective end. Plug the OBD code scanner into this port. Dont force it in, though, or you could bend the pins.

2

Put the key in the ignition and turn it to the "II" position, taking care not to start the engine. The OBD code scanner will power itself on and read the trouble codes.

3

Locate the "delete" button on the scanner and select it. Depending on the manufacturer of the scanner, it may have a different label, such as "erase codes." When you select it, it will reset the computer and shut off the lights.

4

Unplug the scanner and turn on the engine. Check the instrument panel to verify that all service and warning lights have shut off.

The oxygen sensors in your 1998 Honda Accord help regulate the fuel consumption of your car. When an oxygen sensor fails, your car begins to burn too much fuel and you gas mileage declines dramatically. The 1998 Accord contains two oxygen sensors located in the exhaust pipe on either end of the catalytic converter. It is best to replace both together to avoid having another one fail immediately after the first replacement. Buy replacement sensors from an auto parts retailer or Honda dealer.

Instructions

1

Raise your 1998 Honda Accord with a jack and secure it on a set of jack stands. Position the car high enough to work comfortably beneath it.

2

Locate the oxygen sensor you want to change. Disconnect the electrical connection at the top of the sensor. Squeeze the retaining clip and pull the wiring connector straight off the sensor.

3

Remove the oxygen sensor from the exhaust pipe using an oxygen sensor socket and ratchet. Insert the new oxygen sensor by hand to prevent cross threading the new sensor. Torque the sensor to 33 ft.-lbs. with your torque wrench.

4

Reconnect the wiring harness on the new oxygen sensor. Press the electrical connection straight onto the new sensor until it clicks.

5

Repeat the process on the other sensor if needed. Raise the car with the jack and remove the jack stands. Lower the car to the ground.

Extended warranties are available as a full bumper-to-bumper warranty (which covers all but maintenance items) or a powertrain warranty (which covers all major components of the engine and transmission), or sometimes a lesser version of bumper-to-bumper coverage. The warranties can be purchased from an aftermarket provider or from the manufacturer through a dealership. Prices, mileage, deductibles and terms differ widely, so while one may seem cheaper, it may not give you the coverage you need. Learn how to compare extended car warranties.

Instructions

1

Choose a warranty that suits your vehicle. If you have a car that lacks power windows or locks, you probably dont need an extended bumper-to-bumper warranty. If you have all the bells and whistles, having a full bumper-to-bumper warranty may serve its purpose well, as sunroofs, heated seats or navigation systems can prove expensive for repair or replacement.

2

Ask for a list of covered items for the warranties you are comparing. While the technical terms for covered repairs or parts may seem confusing, you should ask any questions to the warranty representative, so that you are sure what is covered and what is not. Compare printed lists to determine similarities and differences, and ask questions if you find any covered items missing from contracts you are comparing.

3

Compare the term and mileage for your warranty. You should ask for coverage that suits your driving needs, such as a 15,000-mile-per-year instead of a 10,000-miles-per-year allowance if you commute. For those who do not drive much, the years are more important than the mileage, such as a four-year, 40,000-mile-per-term warranty over a two-year, 40,000-mile-per-term option.

4

Compare prices and deductibles. Once youve determined comparable coverage and a term that fits your needs, pay close attention to the deductible. You should note that deductibles are charged per incident, so make sure you are choosing an affordable deductible, although some warranties are available without a deductible.

5

Ask where you can service your car. If youre purchasing from a manufacturer, you can use any same-make, new-car dealer. Extended warranties are usually accepted by any shop that uses the company. Find out if you are expected to pay first and be reimbursed later, or call around to shops in your area to ask if they take the warranty that you are considering for purchase.

6

Ask if the warranty is transferable. This means that if you sell your car during the contract period, you can offer the remainder of coverage with your sale. Or, ask if you can be prorated back any of the contract cost amount should you cancel the warranty at a later date.

Since the introduction of the 260D car in 1936, the Mercedes Benz company has been focused on diesel-powered automobiles and its cars are still on the cutting edge of todays diesel vehicles. To keep your Mercedes running smoothly, its advisable to own some of the specialized Mercedes diesel tools.

Engine Tools

If you need to remove the pre-combustion chambers on your diesel motor, use a slide hammer with a threaded adapter or get the special slide hammer adapter with two different threads. Other specialized wrenches and sockets include the pre-chamber retainer ring pin wrench, which removes and installs the threaded retainer ring of the pre-chamber, and a multi-spline socket to remove the pre-combustion chamber retainer ring on later injection diesel models. For the glow plugs, you can use a glow plug bore reamer, which is a pencil-type reamer that removes the carbon deposit from the glow plug holes. This reamer comes for turbo or non-turbo diesels. Many other tools, like hex head sockets, used to access the head bolts, can be used for both diesel and gasoline Mercedes Benz cars.

Cylinder Head and Engine Timing Tools

If you need to adjust the valves of your diesel engine, a pair of diesel valve adjusting wrenches and retaining nut holders come in handy. The diesel spring plate holding wrench will hold the retaining nut as you adjust the valves. To check the compression, get a compression gauge and an adapter. The gauge comes with a hose and the adapter of your choice. Make your car run its best with some new glow plugs, or analyze your old plugs with the glow plug analyzer, which tests 12-volt glow plug systems in the newer model diesel engines. To reach the deep port injectors and the glow plugs easily, a diesel compression adapter extension can be used.

Injection Tools

Test your cars opening pressure, the spray pattern and the cleaning injectors with a diesel injection nozzle tester. You can get this tool in a kit, which includes a gauge and the pump and steel adaptor lines. This kit is adaptable for gasoline injectors, too. A specialized diesel fuel pressure tester lets you measure the fuel pressure in high pressure CDI-type engines and a timing tool allows you to calculate the start of the fuel delivery with the RIV method. To maintain your timing while working on the pump, use a diesel pump lock pin, which locks the pump cam. The diesel drip tube helps you adjust the start of the fuel delivery and a vacuum control adjusting roller can measure the vacuum pressures on the control valve. A diesel nozzle socket and an injection socket are helpful tools, too.

The Vortec engine is a line of gasoline engines made by General Motors for its trucks since 1988. These engines use a technology that creates a vortex of fuel and air in the combustion chamber to improve the mixture of air and fuel. The most common Vortec engine in a 1995 vehicle is the 4300, a six-cylinder 4.3-liter engine with multi-point fuel injection. The fuel injector replacement procedure is generally the same for all Vortec engines made before 1999.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the cable from the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench. Open the filler cap on the fuel tank to relieve the pressure in the fuel tank. Remove the air cleaner from the intake manifold.

2

Squeeze the two tabs on the fuel injectors electrical connector, and pull it straight up to disconnect the electrical wiring from the fuel injector. Disconnect the cover for the fuel meter with a socket wrench, and discard its gasket.

3

Lift the fuel injector from the fuel meter with tool No. J-26868, and remove the small O-ring from the fuel injector. Remove the fuel filter from the injector by twisting the fuel filter back and forth. Remove the large O-ring and washer from the injector cavity in the fuel meter.

4

Coat the new small O-rings in automatic transmission fluid, and install them to the nozzle end of the fuel injector. Place the new washer into the injector cavity of the fuel meter, so that it is flush with the top of the cavity.

5

Install the new fuel injector so the lug on its base aligns with the notch in the injector cavity. Push the fuel injector down to seat it within the injector cavity, and ensure the injectors electrical terminals are parallel to the shaft of the throttle.

6

Replace the gasket for the fuel meter cover, and fasten the cover with a socket wrench. Attach the electrical connector for the fuel injector. Start the engine and check for fuel leaks.

Harleys with electronic fuel injection are more common now. Everything on a fuel-injected Harley is connected together through what is essentially a black box called an electronic control module. When one component of the electronic chain breaks, it is sometimes necessary to test several components. One of those components is the fuel sender, which provides data to both the gas gauge and the fuel pump. The sender is usually removed to perform what is called a "fuel sender test."

Instructions

1

Remove the seat by loosening the Allen screw that connects the seat locking tab to the rear fender.

2

Grab the sideplate on the right side of the motorcycle with both hands and pull. Pry the full pump fuse from the fuse block with a small flat head screwdriver.

3

Start the engine in neutral and allow the engine to run until it stalls. Operate the starter for 3 seconds after the bike stalls.

4

Disconnect the negative battery wire from the battery terminal with an open end wrench.

5

Remove the acorn nut and washer on instrument console with an Allen wrench. Separate the instrument console from the fuel tank.

6

Unplug the plastic fuel-pump module connector from the wiring harness. Remove the 10 fuel tank top-plate fasteners with an Allen wrench. Remove the top plate.

7

Reach into the fuel tank and push the fuel pump housing down to disengage it from the pump housing and disengage it from the end cap.

8

Pull the fuel pump out of the fuel tank just far enough to reach the fuel gauge sending unit on the right interior of the fuel tank.

9

Pull the fuel sender attachment tab towards the top of the fuel tank to release the sending unit from mounting tabs. Remove the fuel sender and float.